How to Paint Partial StuG Interiors - PRE-WAR and EARLY-WAR
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Hello. Today we look at painting interiors for very early war German vehicles. For anything mid- and late-war, the process is the same...just all the bits I painted blue-green should be left as red oxide primer. The line between the lower red oxide/blue-green and upper ivory colours also changes around; sometimes only the floor is red. Reference photos will help you infinitely here as I still don't know exactly how the transition line placement works.
Scale Studio's StuG interior video:
• Painting My Stug III's...
David Parker's Pz IV interior:
/ 920071714702418
David Byrden's great website for some interior colour reference:
byrden.com/panz...
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.
So yes, these new UA-cam ads are cancer. It used to be , at worst, one ad every 7 minutes throughout the video. Since the update a month ago, the minimum gap between ads is 2:40. Now by default UA-cam sticks a ton of ads in the video...I have to go in and manually remove them because it's ridiculous...and now I'm watching through my video and they still seem to all be there? Please let me know what it's like on your end; 4 ad breaks in a 14 minute video (plus one and beginning and one at the end) is insane.
I'm not going to shut down the ads because the ad revenue helps me buy stuff for the channel. Typically I have an ad break every 10 minutes. Basically one in the beginning and one in the middle-end of the video. Not 6 like UA-cam wants.
I have an ad blocker on my Mac and on Windows. I see no ads of any kind. The Windows one was free and I paid a nominal sum for the one on the Mac.
@@stephenbridges2791 Yes, Ad blocker wins.
I enabled Ad Blocker over a year ago. I've never seen an advert since. That is definitely the way to go!
I've noticed a huge increase in ads when they started pushing the "premium" ad free subscription.
A combination of Safari’s content blockers and Adblock results in no adverts. Though sometimes it’s necessary to let the first one just start playing before switching the content blockers on otherwise UA-cam throws an error. UA-cam also sometimes tries to refresh the stream where an advert should be then sometimes fails to load properly.
Dude, I kid you not. I'm building the Tamiya Sturmgeschutz III as I type this. I was thinking, should I paint the interior now before I finish the super structure and then I receive a this notification.
Surreal.
Glad to hear this video was timely :)
Great job. Just added it to my “... recommended modeling videos” playlist. 👍👍
Hey! Nice work! Thanks for the shoutout
Thank you very much! I look forward to our next videos :)
Good to see another video from you. I enjoy your work.
Wood deck & flat white. You saved me some research time.
Keep up the work!
As for the Ads, it's unfortunate, but UA-cam is free and they have to make their money.
I'm annoyed too, but I see it as seconds compared to minutes of a favorite hobby subject.
Nice tutorial. I'm just building a Sturmtiger with a partial interior and it does make a huge difference when you look through those hatches. Great result, thanks for sharing!
Excellent video thank you doing a stug interior ..... this is the mix i use for the interior and after you weather it with washes it has a nice light beige yellow tone to it
20 parts XF2 white
1part XF57 buff
Thanks for the tutorial!! I am going to apply this to my maus interior.
Nice to see you back with some proper weathering techniques :) Excellent work as always mate.
Thank you Michael! I am still alive, just busier these days...
Thanks for the heads up on Scale Studios link.
Awesome paint job my friend you gave me alot ideas keep up the good work 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
Uncle Nightshift sent me.
Subscribed, liked and checked that bell.
_this is going to be great_
Just in time! This'll go great on my Panzerjager II!
Glad to hear that :)
*After have seen your excellent video only one thing : "JUST DO IT!" 😃 👍👏*
Thank you :)
I’ve the Tamiya Stug B and the Eduard interior PE set awaiting building. My intention being to leave all the hatches open, including the ones above the gunner, but only build what can be seen through them. I’ve also found it not exactly simple to work out what colour the radio should be. I’ve found photographs showing radios as black, green/field grey, white and off-white. My best guess so far is that they were painted to match the vehicle’s interior colour with the green or black paint used if the radio wasn’t to be fitted inside a vehicle.
Interesting that your Stug is missing the various ammunition boxes and the grenade rack fitted to the big ammunition box at the rear of the fighting compartment. Then again, if it’s a prototype maybe they were never fitted...
The prototype didn't have the grenade rack. I imagine it had ammunition storage in the traditional spot in front of the loader but you can't even see that far in so I didn't bother scratch building it. It's also missing the catch bag for 75mm shell casings.
These prototypes from 1937 were used for a while as training tanks, mainly for training officers and liason personnel, so that's the story I'm going with here.
@@Panzermeister36 Prototypes, especially early prototypes, are indeed likely to be missing a lot of stuff that gets fitted to production vehicles. As for what’s visible of the interior, a bit of test fitting with the Tamiya parts shows there’s a lot more of the interior on view if the two hatches above the gunner’s seat are open. Tamiya do provide some interior details - the gun mount/breech assembly, seats, and the grenade rack, but with all the hatches open I thought it would look a bit empty so I got the Eduard PE to fill out the visible interior. Though as I said, if it’s not visible I’m not going to spend ages building and painting it.
Where did you find color photos of Stug III radios being other than black with white dials/white radio lettering? I’ve visited numerous tank museums and WWII museums/battlefields and any and all staged Stug III variants displayed a black radio with white dials/lettering. Please do share. Thank you.
Going to have to get one of these MiniArt kits someday. Love that more and more companies are providing some kind of interior for this kind of realism and depth you mention
Well I did have to add some of the interior details to this kit. It's pretty sparse to begin with.
@@Panzermeister36 that's fair. Were the MP40s not included or something like that? I think companies often run into issues taking inspiration from vehicles that have been stripped for scrap, weapons removed, etc
No, the MP40s were there. The drive shaft cover, first aid kit, and binocular stand is what I added.
@@Panzermeister36 ahh okay. 👍🏻
Nicely done. And I REALLY like the advice you give near the end of the video - plan ahead if you want to, but "done is better than perfect."
Great video my friend really helpful 👍👍
Grazie, molto interessante.
Lovely my boy. As far as I know the radios are almost always grey. I follow a radio restoerer on facebook called WH Restorer, so i see those on my feed quite often. Also, chieftain or challenger videos in Bovys original vehicles.
I just did my interior on my StuG this would have been so helpful
Great video, thanks - that's just what I'm on with. I've always painted the floors ivory before - looks like it'll be red primer this time! Good timing - and good info! Cheers.👍
Great video, as always. One note though, if you allow: it would be useful - if you can put it on - to place an overlay text note of the thin ratio, pressure and nozzle at the first time and every time you change any of them. It would be very helpful for the semi-beginners like me.
Thank you. I do that sometimes when spraying fine camo but I did not today. Generally I use 60% thinner and around 18-20 psi.
You should do a Stug cut in half to show off the interior and your work. You could display both sides and even mount them on plexiglass to showcase the beaten up underside. Anyway good step by step tricks as usual. ..thanks
I was beginning to miss your presence here Evan. Thanks for making this excellent video. I just finished my Panzer III B and just started my Stug 0. This will go a long way with the Stug if I decide to do the interior.
Thank you Dan! The kit interior isn't much so I had to add some of the details you see in the video. For example: the binocular stand, the first aid kit, and the whole driveshaft cover (somehow Miniart forgot that piece!).
@@Panzermeister36 I can't really blame them for missing that very important detail....yet they added a turret basket for the B, C and D and they didnt get the basket until the E. There was definitely some incomplete research.
nice tutorial and work, cheers for the links.
Thank you!
Nice work on the interior. Hoping to get mine started soon. Lovely work all round
Thank you!
It looks so easy to paint little details, before you have a brush on your hand xD Lovely video anyway, cheers form Italy!
Another great video my friend, thanks for sharing! 👍 👍 👍
Thank you!
Did you ever think about adding either led light or fiber optic for interior lighting , I'm sure it would be easier in larger scale stuff. With optical fiber on a larger scale it would really be neat to see radio dials lit up and overhead . Shadows do wonders. Great job!
Excellent!
Could you please inform what paint brush are you using to make those tiny chipping and scratches? Thank you.
Royal and Langnickel Zen73 series 10/0 or 20/0 round spotter brush.
Will you consider to make a stug series? I would love to follow the series if you do😅
Do you have a special technique for sanding the wheels that avoids distorting the round shape? Thanks for your reply
Hi friend, well comeback and nice work as always. I also think ads multiplied so badly recently.
Actually, it should be given too much stress to viewer.But it must not decrease any worth from your video.
Have a good day and looking forward to the next video.
Nice work and just a couple of ad’s... cheers !
Glad to hear that. Thank you!
Looks awesome - especially the gun mounting. Such a shame that in the end you have only a limited view.
Thank you! Yes, you can see some of it in the end. I think it's worth the effort :)
Even can you do a full interior kit ? I think that would be awesome! I have a crap ton of interior kits, and well I want to see one of my favorite armor guys give it a go.
I did a full interior once with a Marder III M and I was painful lol. I am doing a Canadian M10 IIc Achilles now which is open-topped, but as for full 100% interiors with the engine and transmission and everything....I probably won't do one any time soon. I just find it exhausting, sorry.
@@Panzermeister36 but im scared too
Understandable! I'm sure there are good resources online...forums posts or something that can help. But my method is to leave lots of the interior bits separate for painting since getting in there with a paintbrush to detail paint is very difficult.
@@Panzermeister36 na i hear you my canadian cousin, i was just kidding . ya im going to give it a go here quik, maybe on my meng FT!7 full interior. got my dragon stug #6632 man that kit looks sweet even in the box, got i set of aftermarket winterketten tracks for it too! ill try and post a video of it wghebn finished. do you know where i can aquire PE hinges?
PE hinges for what, the crew hatches? Engine deck?
Great work man👍 you’ve helped give me a future idea of doing a 1/72 scale interior on my channel :D
Brilliant kit I have it and the panzer 3 D /B to build looks so interesting really nice detail love the suspension on these Series 0s this dull gray was used in the very early Tiger 1 too wasn't it? I have the RFM Eastern front early tiger and the research I'm doing is for this same interior grey used and not the elfinbein
I use AdBlock Plus and I don't get any ads at all
Oh man, clean the outside of your Badger!
The inside is clean lol...
Awesome work! is it necessary to seal before washing with enamel paint? I did noticed you are using acrylic paint. I'm learning.
Im using Gaia 223 interior color for the ivory color of German interior. Check it out and tell me what u think.
Well it’s funny, as if you knew I was coming to the point of what am I going to do on the inside of the Bronco Stug, where I’ve one v small opening you can just see a bit of gun mech and optics stuff. However my feeling is that no way am I spending three hours on that :D
This mixture of colors also applies to early versions of PzKpfw III's and PzKpfw IV's? 😊
Yes it should be the same...even Pz I and Pz II etc. Just the arrangement of details will be different.
Sorry to post this question on a such an old video, but since you seem to be guru on Stug models, I have a question. Were both Elfenbein and Cremeweiss used for interiors? I have a jar of Ak Real Colors Cremeweiss, which on Mig Jimenez site is said to be interior color. Aks 3rd gen is labeled as Elfenbein (Cremeweiss) but they have both Elfenbein and Cremeweiss separate on Real colors?!
Luckily I can see recent comments even on older videos on the UA-cam creator app :)
I am honestly not certain about this. This is something I have never noticed before -- I thought it was the same colour. But now that I look, Mig AMMO has RAL9001 Cremeweiss, AK Real Color has RAL1001 Elfelbein....but then AK 3rd Generation has "Cremeweiss" which it says is equivalent to their Real Color lacquer, but there is no lacquer Cremeweiss, only Elfelbein!
If they are truly the same colour, then they would have the same RAL code, but one is 9001 and the other 1001.
I will have to look into this in more detail and get back to you later. You can send me your email if you want.
At what point in the war did it switch from blueish to red oxide?
I'm not sure. Some time between 1941 and 42. And it was a soft transition so you can see some vehicles with red oxide floors but blue transmissions etc.
I'm kinda Dragon Styrene junkie, how is this kit? I don't own any of the MiniArt kits. How does it stack up against say a Stug III from Dragon? NICE work BTW
It's not a bad kit. But I do prefer Dragon StuG kits - better detail, better engineering, better tracks, and PE parts that make sense. You also get more interior from Dragon (I added some to this kit from Dragon spare interior parts). But, if you want to build this special variant of the StuG then you have to get this Miniart kit.
so i don't have an airbrush. i was thinking of painting a tamiya 35 scale tank with the Tamiya TS line of spray paints. Do you think i can use them to good effect ? This will be the first tank I'm building. Thinking of getting the Sherman ez-8 from Tamiya model #35346.
If you're going for one good solid colour the Tamiya cans should be fine. You can't really do fine camouflage patterns with cans. But the Tamiya cans are good quality. It's just important to build up the finish in multiple layers and not spray super close to the model. I think it explains itself on the label.
I cannot get sponge-chipping right at all. It leaves fairly large blobs even after taking as much paint as possible off the sponge. Is it the type of sponge? Foam or wire or, um, large foam bubbles or smaller bubbles(?) or compact or really squishy sponge? (Running out of sponge variables here...). Bath sponge? Argh!
I just use a foam packing sponge. Maybe try putting less paint on the sponge to begin with. I imagine your sponge is getting lots if paint deep inside that you can't really wipe off on a paper towel before applying to the model.
@@Panzermeister36 Thankyou, I’ll give that a shot :D Thanks also for the videos, which have been so useful for learning new techniques I had no idea about - best scale-model channel by far.
hi, a question not really related to the topic, but is ammo acrylics self-leveling? I'm gonna use it to brush-paint so would like some insight. Thanks!
I'm not sure. I know AMMO paints are quite thin and don't offer good coverage but if you brush on a number of layers you should get a decent result.
Bonjour
Pourriez vous si cela ne vous dérange pas me dire la marque de votre pinceau avec le manche alu
Par avance merci
Amicalement
Bonjour. C'est une marque que je trouve très facilement dans les magasins d'art ici au Canada. Je trouve qu'ils sont durables et bon marché.
Marque: Royal and Langnickel
Série: Zen73
Modèle: 10/0 ou 20/0 "round spotter brush"
art.royalbrush.com/brush-collections/zen
Merci en France introuvable
Amicalement
Pre war Stug ???? when I recall right they were developed in 1940
No, this prototype vehicle was buit in 1937.
@@Panzermeister36 ok, thanks for the info
alot of talent and knowledge BUT you should start and put them into dioramas they will have more meaning more viewers as well .. let the world see your talent... burnt out building maybe a river scene with a tank in it ??? its endless shame if you done!!!!
I don't have the space for dioramas
Unless you plan to light the interior with LEDs or something, I don’t see the point to detailing the interior. The only person that knows its been detailed is you, unless you draw the eye of an observer with a visual que.
Well you can see inside the open hatches so I painted the partial interior to suit. Every time I've been to a show some judge decides to shine a light into every open hatch...
@@Panzermeister36 you’re having them judged without lighting the interior...?
Take it up with the IPMS judges :P
I’ve learned a lot from your videos, but the 80s porn movie guitar track has to go!