You're the king of DIY Bike mechanic for those of us who can mostly afford to have bikes. We really appreciate all your videos, helping us taking care of our pocket as well as our health. Thank You!! Happy Feet and Keep up the good vibes!!
For awhile, front derailleurs were a mystery to me. I never new why the chain would always fall off the big ring. But after watching a couple of videos, I found out the importance of having the front derailleur perfectly aligned, and as close as possible to the big chainring. Once I did that along with making sure my limit screws were set correctly, I never dropped my chain again! Thanks for another great video RJ!
Thanks RJ! I've been having a 2 year problem with my Front Deralleur on a Vintage build. Turned out I had a wrong FD Derelleur type. It's the Short cage one not a long cage FD that worked like magic. Wouldn't have tried a Short cage with the right angle if it weren't for you doing this video. I used a Shimano 400CX Front derailleur to replace the Altus C10. Seriously, Thank You!
Managed to change my front derailleur today thanks to this video. Usually everything I do results in an expensive visit to the bike repair shop but a few tools and a little extra research into how barrels actually work and I got the job done. So pleased. Thank you.
Wow it's worked..I was frustrated everytime when I was cycling as my front derailleur not working properly. Thanks for the video bro. Im kinda happy now 😁
You sir are so enthusiastic. If the volume of my speakers is a bit too loud I almost jump out of my chair when the video starts with your voiuce: "HEY THERE" ... Anyway great videos, I've learned a lot since I started two years ago restauring 70ies racers! THANK YOU SIR!!
Thanks, great video! May I suggest to true the rear wheel of the bike 😁 - sorry couldn't help noticing. Derailleur settings are brilliant and very informative on the fine-tuning and testing!
My limited experience with chain derailers is they are a pain in the axxx! Wonderful for bike repair shops! A clear problem is the frame to frame variation among bikes. The angle between seat-tube and plumb or vertical differs from bike to bike. The drailers do not have an adjustment for that angular variation. When mounted by a clamp on the biike's seat-tube the angle made by the cage with the plomb varies. The result for many bikes is that the arc of the cage is not concentric with the arc of the gear's circumference. The distance between the cage and the gear is not the same along that arc. I find the recommendation of about 1mm distance between the two arcs impossible unless one means the minimal distance. It varies. Further, I find that on my bike, the distance between the two arcs when in the highest gear combination (fastest bike speed) is about 16mm not 1mm ! What the distance is when the chain is at the lowest bike speed combination with the cable released I could not say, because in that state the derailer is closest to the frame and away from the largest gear. In my setup, the cable tension is not taut in the lowest speed combination. My conclusion is that each bike's front derailer setup for allowing the greatest choice of combinations is different. Each bike's front derailer setup is unique because bike frames are not standardized.
0:48 the old derailleur are much more batter because it have screw on it that allowed you to removed the derailleur without cutting or removing the chain. Now days derailleur just like disposable even tho it was an expansive barand still it was all stamped it feels cheap
I bought a new 3-spd FD for my daughter's hybrid. Shimano Acera. However, even with no cable, the FD does move inward over the inner chainring. It sits over the middle ring. It takes a LOT of force to get the cage to move out to the outer ring. I don't understand! I imagine I have the wrong FD? (I know you can't just diagnose without seeing it, but maybe I'm missing something. ) Oh, and get this: a Shimano product and the only instructions in the box are to avoid getting pants caught in the chain and if the chain makes a noise, to shift to a different cog!)
Some cages I have come across do not have the option to split the cage to get them over the chain. With those I do split the chain with a chain splitting tool. although I don;t use a master link to fix it together I push the rivet back in.
I really don't recommend reusing the old pin like that. It will be a weak link and more prone to breaking at that point. Shimano has replacement pins for their chains. I prefer KMC missing links.
I made it as far as putting the outer tube on and was so excited I was getting it all done, went to clip it and forgot that I literally had the inner cable inside and I cut the brand new inner Cable in half LOL well I guess I'll wait another 2 days for the new one to come in 💀💀💀
As always your videos are so helpful. As someone who like to do my own work, this channel is the first place I look for “how to” videos on bike maintenance!
Was that barrel adjuster just the one for the shifter? How does it move the derailleur? I spent half an hour earlier trying to index a front derailleur on a bike with 3 chain rings but the limit screws didn't seem to be helping it was still rubbing on the inside plate and making plenty of noise. So I just gave up. Big thumbs up from me :)
My front derailleur design looks the same. The cable is secured to the derailleur just like your video but changing to big gear is very hard. My shifter is smooth when the cable is disconnected. Kindly advice. Thanks very much.
This video was again another money saver from Mr Bike Guy. I have this old cc bike with double rings in the front, and I just set up a new front derailleur based on this video. To me the main take was to adjust the derailleur properly before installing the cable: something I hadn't realized before. My setup also includes a cable roller at the bottom, and first I thought it was broken since it refused to cooperate in any way. Finally I removed and opened the roller, and inside was a decade's worth of sediment and dirt. After cleaning and greasing the roller I finally attached the new cable and didn't set it too tight as in my previous failed attempts. The result was a working front derailleur, now already test driven.
Love your content, it's very helpful. One question, what is your opinion on Microshift derailleurs? I recently got a 11-42 ten speed cassette and the Microshift derailleurs seem to be the only ones that come ready to fit a 42t cog. Just wanted an opinion
As per tradition I always says thanks 🙏 RJ for your excellent videos and your encyclopedic knowledge of bikes 🚲……. I’m not sure but I’ve been following your didactic material now for at least 13 years …..
Hey RJ , can u help me out with a problem, I am making a bicycle frame and I don't know what to do with the fittings of to forks to frame . Can you help me out with this
Thanks for pointing out the problematic difference with 3x, RJ. Setting up my 2x was a cinch, so I thought I was going insane with my 3x (still not right BTW but at least now I know it's not _supposed_ to be easy). I think my next bike may well be a 1x ;-)
A SACRILEGIOUS VIEW ON THE FRONT DERAILLER: I know it often spelled "derailleur", but that is a French word that English speaking bicyclists would prefer to mispronounce than to anglicize. As a lover of both English and French, I prefer one language at a time. From this start, you can expect to read an opinion not often expressed by bicycle-people: the front derailler is a bothersome and unnecessary appendage for flat-landers. They would do themselves a favor by removing it from their bicycles and their lives. I have a 21-speed "mountain" bicycle without a front derailler. I have a "mountain" bike, because they are cheaper than other genres. I excised the front derailler with a chain-tool, reconnecting the chain with a master link. I then secured the cable that was attached to the derailler. I still have a 21-speed bicycle, but while riding I can shift only 6-up or 6-down using the rear derailler. The chain rests reliably on the largest of the three on the crankshaft. If I expect to be carrying a heavy load on my carrier-rack, I can off-the-bike move the chain manually onto the middle of the front set or onto the the smallest of the set. I still have the 6-up or -down with the rear derailler. What is the advantages of my 21-speed, 6-up or -down, partly manual transmission? The shifting adjustment is far easier and less likely to need re-adjustment; the bicycle is 4 oz lighter. In Florida, if one is bicycling just for a bit of outdoor pleasure, shopping or commuting, he or she hardly needs to shift while riding among 21-speeds. If I lived in North Carolina, I think I could still manage very well with my partly manual transmission. For most people, 21-speeds while riding is a marketing gimmick, in my view.
This bike was really easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Hi. Great videos. I know you hate stupid questions, but maybe this will make the cut: I cannot seem to find a f der for a 28.6mm downtube triple downpull. They all have adapters. I got one of those and it jammed and swung around ( I didn’t dare whale on the clamp screw). The cage may have took a hit but I put it back and it “works “ but poorly. The cage seems bent .. again not sure. I thought easiest fix would be to get a fd with no clamp/ the right size. Any ideas? Thanks- Peter
The video was good but not all the derailers have little screws if my derailer doesn't have a little screw how do I put it on my chain I have not got a Front derailleur at the moment I am waiting for it to come from china if I keep my chain on my second chain ring would that course any problems
Big, big thanks! This made installation a lot easier - last night I was a bit exasperated by how tricky it was, after watching your video it was easy. You the man RJ! (Why did the bicycle go to the psychiatrist? It had cycle logical problems... damn this one was even worse =)
@Thomas C. Belanger, they make them that way so you have to buy the special de-riveting tool take it off or to install it a chain tool. It’s a total scam to get you too buy said tool.
I have the same issue, instead of a screw to open up the cage it has a rivit... what a pain in the @$$ but know I know why the Sora 3030 was on sale...
I got an old Shimano 105, looking slightly similar to yours but I cannot for the life of me get my front derailleur back to work. At first I thought it was just a weakened fatigued cable. It was, but trying to reinstall it, the derailleur will just hit the teeth even when the whole cage is mounted AN INCH above the highest gear teeth. Something is just pulling it out of shape. But only when Im using the cable. If I push it to the outer gear manually, it seems to fit fine. When everything seems to be dialed in and im tightening every screw, it's fudged again.
I got a new triple crankset and instantly converted it to a 1x with a 32t chainring. I had a 1x8 drivetrain. Today, after about a month of riding a 1x8, I got the granny and big ring back, so I needed this video to set up the front derailleur. Did it, shifts like a charm. Triple crankset rocks! :)
Hello I had to change the pedal assembly (with 3 plates) on a mountain bike. I found one that I thought was suitable, with 3 sheets, but after I mounted it, I noticed that it comes further outside, so the changer only reaches the small and the middle sheet, it no longer goes on the large sheet. Is it possible to make an adjustment of the derailleur to go out more in order to switch to the big sheet or should the entire pedal assembly be changed? The shifter is Shimano Tournei and the shift lever is Shimano RevoShift. I want to mention that the manual shifter reaches the level of the third sheet, but I don't know if it can be set to go out that much, from the construction. Or could I find a smaller monobloc hub that would allow the pedal assembly to come further inside? Thank you very much for a possible answer! Last but not least, I want to say that the way you explain is understandable even for a beginner in bicycles.
Hi i am trying to install my front derailleur on my bike. But my front derailleur has both L anf H limit screws all the way in. How many turns with my screwdriver i should turn to set the limit screws to a "factory setting" before installing? Any ideas?
Almost Got it Single And got rid of the Front derailer But after this vid. I got it to work just fine 😂 and i saw i accidently put the Clamp Way to hight on my Frame so Made sence that it didnt work at all
My chain is constantly wanting to jump of while in the small ring at the front, and the biggest cog in the back. Any pointers as to what could be going wrong? It never actually comes of, but I can hear it clicking, and somtimes I can see it starting to come of, but then catch back on.
My front Shimano derailleur moves freely in and out when I push it with my hand without a cable in it. I shift my grip shifter and hold the cable and I feel it loosen and tighten. I put the cable on the derailleur and it doesn't shift. I have one gear in the front. What am I doing incorrectly?
Dude is all I needed was to show how the cable runs thru derailer but like most people you just talk about irrelevant crap. On and on except what I was hoping to see. To much dam talking.
Thanks, the other video I watched said to break the chain, which I definitely don’t wanna do, so I’m gonna go and check if I can undo the derailleur cage and slide it out this way.
I don't know. There are only three components. The shifter, the cable, and the derailleur. Figure out where the issue. My guess is you goofed somewhere.
About as clear as mud with all his hum's & em's & um's, not to mention a really annoying voice while he drawls on and on and on, not a good instructional video at all.
Does anyone understand why RJ sets the cage to be touching the chain before attaching the gear cable, and then sets the cage so it is not quite touching the chain. I can't quite get my head around it.
Great video! My front derailleur fell victim to me, an allen wrench, pliers, a 6 pack and a lot of cuss words. Your step by step video was simple, concise and save me a trip to my local bike store for repairs from what I screwed up, THANKS,
I'm having problems finding a SRAM 2×11, 28/42t, 26.8 seatpost clamp, pull down front derailleur to upgrade my mtb. I find SRAM components to often be vague and hard to find at the same time requiring specific specifications to meet a match, you can't put certain SRAM XO FD with certain SRAM XO 2x10/11 cranksets also SRAM components seem to be confusing to understand due to inconsistant hierarchy understandings where Shimano is pretty straight forward. Can I use a Shimano XT front derailleur setup to guide an XO 28/42T crankset?
@@RJTheBikeGuy 100% Thank you! I find SRAM MTB components to br very frustrating while Shim. is pretty much straight forward. With SRAM there are too many specifications, one needs exact components where it's hard to "mix and match", the hierarchy scheme for me a "weekend enthusiast" is confusing where I don't know what chain and what cassette would go with an XO 2x10 crankset. They push this 1x11, 1x12 thing where most riders race the bike trails on the weekend and almost never actually ride a mountain trail. 100% Thanks! I'm look at XTR, not so confusing.
Hey Rj my front 105 derailleur is kinda weird do you think it’s my height? So what happens is when I shift down in the front the chain links get stuck on top of my teeth of my front lower chainring whenever I shift to a lower gear in the front. And whenever I shift into a higher gear it goes back into place like a chain should. Do you thing that it’s my height on my front derailleur or do I just need to adjust it. Ps. I’m gonna be honest I’m not to sure if it even is my front derailleur but I think it is so yeah thanks for your help
Thanks I’ll try to replace my chain because my cassette and chainrings aren’t worn out yet thanks again like 3 times for your help ! Hope you still get better from your injury !
I am in the process of installing a Shimano 105 FD5504 on my son's 2001 9 speed. I torque the clamp bolt and the cable bolt to about 55 inch pounds (not ft lbs). Nice video. I should probably invest in new shifter cables too.
Thanks for the article. After struggling with front Derailleur Adjustment and consulting innumerable articles and UA-cam videos I just about gave up until I discovered one additional factor in proper derailleur shifting, Crank Bolt Tension. While inspecting my bike, I noticed a very slight "play" and a new "sound" during a ride. I realized that the crank was a little loose. When I tightened the crank bolt, I realized it was way looser than the manufacturers torque specs. Once I tightened the crank bolt, it brought the outside chain ring a little closer in, enough to make a significant difference in the range of the derailleur. Hope this helps.
If you were riding with the crank bolt loose, you may have damaged the mating surfaces in the crank arm. The crank arm is held on by friction. It's pressed on. The bolt is used to tighten it on, and help keep it from coming loose. If the surfaces are damaged, you may have a problem with it continually coming loose.
RJ, your videos are pretty great, except this one. The barrel adjuster makes no sense in this video...which way is “in”? Does “in” make the cable tighter or slacker? Without that reference, the test of the adjustments make no sense.
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Of all the videos I was looking at for how to set the cable tension just right this one proved the most helpful, thankyou !
I could second that! He really keeps it simple and to the point. Some of these channels over complicate straightforward processes.
You're the king of DIY Bike mechanic for those of us who can mostly afford to have bikes. We really appreciate all your videos, helping us taking care of our pocket as well as our health. Thank You!! Happy Feet and Keep up the good vibes!!
For awhile, front derailleurs were a mystery to me. I never new why the chain would always fall off the big ring. But after watching a couple of videos, I found out the importance of having the front derailleur perfectly aligned, and as close as possible to the big chainring. Once I did that along with making sure my limit screws were set correctly, I never dropped my chain again! Thanks for another great video RJ!
Thanks RJ! I've been having a 2 year problem with my Front Deralleur on a Vintage build. Turned out I had a wrong FD Derelleur type. It's the Short cage one not a long cage FD that worked like magic. Wouldn't have tried a Short cage with the right angle if it weren't for you doing this video. I used a Shimano 400CX Front derailleur to replace the Altus C10. Seriously, Thank You!
Very clear and methodical. Using this as a worst case scenario if my adjustments are poor so as to know what step to take if I have to start all over.
Very helpful video. All the necessary information without any unnecessary details.
Thanks a lot. This video helped me fix my front gears.
Glad I found this video, front derailoyr started playing up
Tonight, hopefully this will sort it tomorrow thanks for posting.
Managed to change my front derailleur today thanks to this video. Usually everything I do results in an expensive visit to the bike repair shop but a few tools and a little extra research into how barrels actually work and I got the job done. So pleased. Thank you.
I enjoy doing my own repairs too but I will always have my wheels trued by a pro.
Wow it's worked..I was frustrated everytime when I was cycling as my front derailleur not working properly. Thanks for the video bro. Im kinda happy now 😁
You sir are so enthusiastic. If the volume of my speakers is a bit too loud I almost jump out of my chair when the video starts with your voiuce: "HEY THERE" ... Anyway great videos, I've learned a lot since I started two years ago restauring 70ies racers! THANK YOU SIR!!
Ready to rip my hair out trying to get this front derailleur to work!
Sometimes you just need to replace them
Thanks RJ! Most of my bikes are doubles but I still run a triple on my '99 Fisher mtb. I completely forgot how to tune it in. Thanks for the tips!!!
I initially tried park tools method but that failed exponentially but after trying yours I've got a nice smooth shifting front derailleur!
This is better than the Park Tool vid, thanks.
Also, subliminal message at 9:19
Thanks, great video! May I suggest to true the rear wheel of the bike 😁 - sorry couldn't help noticing. Derailleur settings are brilliant and very informative on the fine-tuning and testing!
My limited experience with chain derailers is they are a pain in the axxx! Wonderful for bike repair shops! A clear problem is the frame to frame variation among bikes. The angle between seat-tube and plumb or vertical differs from bike to bike. The drailers do not have an adjustment for that angular variation. When mounted by a clamp on the biike's seat-tube the angle made by the cage with the plomb varies. The result for many bikes is that the arc of the cage is not concentric with the arc of the gear's circumference. The distance between the cage and the gear is not the same along that arc.
I find the recommendation of about 1mm distance between the two arcs impossible unless one means the minimal distance. It varies. Further, I find that on my bike, the distance between the two arcs when in the highest gear combination (fastest bike speed) is about 16mm not 1mm !
What the distance is when the chain is at the lowest bike speed combination with the cable released I could not say, because in that state the derailer is closest to the frame and away from the largest gear. In my setup, the cable tension is not taut in the lowest speed combination.
My conclusion is that each bike's front derailer setup for allowing the greatest choice of combinations is different. Each bike's front derailer setup is unique because bike frames are not standardized.
Thanks for the information! Very helpful *
Thank you!!! Very helpful!!!
Love your videos. I found your channel on how to clean treadmills. I have the same one
this is the best video on derailer installation adjustment. the close up photography and
clear explanations make this the top video on this subject
0:48 the old derailleur are much more batter because it have screw on it that allowed you to removed the derailleur without cutting or removing the chain. Now days derailleur just like disposable even tho it was an expansive barand still it was all stamped it feels cheap
I bought a new 3-spd FD for my daughter's hybrid. Shimano Acera. However, even with no cable, the FD does move inward over the inner chainring. It sits over the middle ring. It takes a LOT of force to get the cage to move out to the outer ring. I don't understand! I imagine I have the wrong FD? (I know you can't just diagnose without seeing it, but maybe I'm missing something. ) Oh, and get this: a Shimano product and the only instructions in the box are to avoid getting pants caught in the chain and if the chain makes a noise, to shift to a different cog!)
Some cages I have come across do not have the option to split the cage to get them over the chain. With those I do split the chain with a chain splitting tool. although I don;t use a master link to fix it together I push the rivet back in.
I really don't recommend reusing the old pin like that. It will be a weak link and more prone to breaking at that point. Shimano has replacement pins for their chains. I prefer KMC missing links.
If I'm correct RJ, installing a new pin vs reusing the old pin is only necessary for 9 & 10 speed chains right?
Been doing it for years and never had a chain break.
Famous last words now that I have said that lol
Exactly, and don;t push it to far in either.
I made it as far as putting the outer tube on and was so excited I was getting it all done, went to clip it and forgot that I literally had the inner cable inside and I cut the brand new inner Cable in half LOL well I guess I'll wait another 2 days for the new one to come in 💀💀💀
00:48 The moment I realize that I have never had a good front derailleur...
Ikr
Same
Q : Why are cyclists like people who have been in prison?
A : They have both been behind bars
As always your videos are so helpful. As someone who like to do my own work, this channel is the first place I look for “how to” videos on bike maintenance!
I've been trying to adjust my derailleur for four hours and consulting other videos to no avail. Thank you so much for posting one step by step!
The text at 9:20 says:
Q. Why are cyclists like people who have been in prison?
A. They have both been behind bars
Alucardbsm fuck I have been here forever spamming play and pause until I found it and then I looked to the comments
Thanos of Titan_69 lol me too
@@ghoxty1675 same =))
Noice
Was that barrel adjuster just the one for the shifter? How does it move the derailleur? I spent half an hour earlier trying to index a front derailleur on a bike with 3 chain rings but the limit screws didn't seem to be helping it was still rubbing on the inside plate and making plenty of noise. So I just gave up. Big thumbs up from me :)
It was rubbing in the middle chain ring and a little in the largest as well
check cage alignment
Great video👍👍
My front derailleur design looks the same. The cable is secured to the derailleur just like your video but changing to big gear is very hard. My shifter is smooth when the cable is disconnected. Kindly advice. Thanks very much.
This video was again another money saver from Mr Bike Guy. I have this old cc bike with double rings in the front, and I just set up a new front derailleur based on this video. To me the main take was to adjust the derailleur properly before installing the cable: something I hadn't realized before. My setup also includes a cable roller at the bottom, and first I thought it was broken since it refused to cooperate in any way. Finally I removed and opened the roller, and inside was a decade's worth of sediment and dirt. After cleaning and greasing the roller I finally attached the new cable and didn't set it too tight as in my previous failed attempts. The result was a working front derailleur, now already test driven.
Love your content, it's very helpful. One question, what is your opinion on Microshift derailleurs? I recently got a 11-42 ten speed cassette and the Microshift derailleurs seem to be the only ones that come ready to fit a 42t cog. Just wanted an opinion
I have not used them.
Life behind bars, very clever! Thanks for the video, triples are always a challenge for me.
As per tradition I always says thanks 🙏 RJ for your excellent videos and your encyclopedic knowledge of bikes 🚲……. I’m not sure but I’ve been following your didactic material now for at least 13 years …..
Hey RJ , can u help me out with a problem, I am making a bicycle frame and I don't know what to do with the fittings of to forks to frame .
Can you help me out with this
Do I have to put new cables or Can I keep the old ones ??
at 9:19...whats the subliminal message?
Thanks for pointing out the problematic difference with 3x, RJ. Setting up my 2x was a cinch, so I thought I was going insane with my 3x (still not right BTW but at least now I know it's not _supposed_ to be easy).
I think my next bike may well be a 1x ;-)
Rivet goes from the inside ,out, the big butt is clear of everything, knowledge is Awesome.FanTom
Thanks for taking time to do the video & posting. Really useful for rebuild 7 speed shimano triple mtb bike saved from the dumpster
A SACRILEGIOUS VIEW ON THE FRONT DERAILLER:
I know it often spelled "derailleur", but that is a French word that English speaking bicyclists would prefer to mispronounce than to anglicize. As a lover of both English and French, I prefer one language at a time. From this start, you can expect to read an opinion not often expressed by bicycle-people: the front derailler is a bothersome and unnecessary appendage for flat-landers. They would do themselves a favor by removing it from their bicycles and their lives. I have a 21-speed "mountain" bicycle without a front derailler. I have a "mountain" bike, because they are cheaper than other genres. I excised the front derailler with a chain-tool, reconnecting the chain with a master link. I then secured the cable that was attached to the derailler. I still have a 21-speed bicycle, but while riding I can shift only 6-up or 6-down using the rear derailler.
The chain rests reliably on the largest of the three on the crankshaft. If I expect to be carrying a heavy load on my carrier-rack, I can off-the-bike move the chain manually onto the middle of the front set or onto the the smallest of the set. I still have the 6-up or -down with the rear derailler.
What is the advantages of my 21-speed, 6-up or -down, partly manual transmission? The shifting adjustment is far easier and less likely to need re-adjustment; the bicycle is 4 oz lighter.
In Florida, if one is bicycling just for a bit of outdoor pleasure, shopping or commuting, he or she hardly needs to shift while riding among 21-speeds. If I lived in North Carolina, I think I could still manage very well with my partly manual transmission. For most people, 21-speeds while riding is a marketing gimmick, in my view.
This bike was really easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Hi. Great videos. I know you hate stupid questions, but maybe this will make the cut: I cannot seem to find a f der for a 28.6mm downtube triple downpull. They all have adapters. I got one of those and it jammed and swung around ( I didn’t dare whale on the clamp screw). The cage may have took a hit but I put it back and it “works “ but poorly. The cage seems bent .. again not sure. I thought easiest fix would be to get a fd with no clamp/ the right size. Any ideas? Thanks- Peter
The video was good but not all the derailers have little screws if my derailer doesn't have a little screw how do I put it on my chain I have not got a Front derailleur at the moment I am waiting for it to come from china if I keep my chain on my second chain ring would that course any problems
Big, big thanks! This made installation a lot easier - last night I was a bit exasperated by how tricky it was, after watching your video it was easy. You the man RJ!
(Why did the bicycle go to the psychiatrist?
It had cycle logical problems... damn this one was even worse =)
My 105 derailleur doesn’t have that removal screw.
Mine always have rivets, I have the tools to drill out and put in new rivet !☺ FanTom
Rivets? For what? The cage?
@Thomas C. Belanger, they make them that way so you have to buy the special de-riveting tool take it off or to install it a chain tool. It’s a total scam to get you too buy said tool.
I have the same issue, instead of a screw to open up the cage it has a rivit... what a pain in the @$$ but know I know why the Sora 3030 was on sale...
I got an old Shimano 105, looking slightly similar to yours but I cannot for the life of me get my front derailleur back to work. At first I thought it was just a weakened fatigued cable. It was, but trying to reinstall it, the derailleur will just hit the teeth even when the whole cage is mounted AN INCH above the highest gear teeth. Something is just pulling it out of shape. But only when Im using the cable. If I push it to the outer gear manually, it seems to fit fine. When everything seems to be dialed in and im tightening every screw, it's fudged again.
RJ -- Would a 7-speed front derailleur(on the existing 3x7(21) bike) work with a 5-speed freewheel rear wheel?
where ya been RJ? Fiending for more content!
I got a new triple crankset and instantly converted it to a 1x with a 32t chainring. I had a 1x8 drivetrain.
Today, after about a month of riding a 1x8, I got the granny and big ring back, so I needed this video to set up the front derailleur. Did it, shifts like a charm. Triple crankset rocks! :)
Hello
I had to change the pedal assembly (with 3 plates) on a mountain bike. I found one that I thought was suitable, with 3 sheets, but after I mounted it, I noticed that it comes further outside, so the changer only reaches the small and the middle sheet, it no longer goes on the large sheet. Is it possible to make an adjustment of the derailleur to go out more in order to switch to the big sheet or should the entire pedal assembly be changed? The shifter is Shimano Tournei and the shift lever is Shimano RevoShift. I want to mention that the manual shifter reaches the level of the third sheet, but I don't know if it can be set to go out that much, from the construction. Or could I find a smaller monobloc hub that would allow the pedal assembly to come further inside? Thank you very much for a possible answer!
Last but not least, I want to say that the way you explain is understandable even for a beginner in bicycles.
I was really struggling with the front derailleur. Your video has helped my tremendously. Thank you and thumbs up!
Hi i am trying to install my front derailleur on my bike. But my front derailleur has both L anf H limit screws all the way in. How many turns with my screwdriver i should turn to set the limit screws to a "factory setting" before installing? Any ideas?
Almost Got it Single And got rid of the Front derailer But after this vid. I got it to work just fine 😂 and i saw i accidently put the Clamp Way to hight on my Frame so Made sence that it didnt work at all
My chain is constantly wanting to jump of while in the small ring at the front, and the biggest cog in the back. Any pointers as to what could be going wrong?
It never actually comes of, but I can hear it clicking, and somtimes I can see it starting to come of, but then catch back on.
My front Shimano derailleur moves freely in and out when I push it with my hand without a cable in it. I shift my grip shifter and hold the cable and I feel it loosen and tighten. I put the cable on the derailleur and it doesn't shift. I have one gear in the front. What am I doing incorrectly?
Dude is all I needed was to show how the cable runs thru derailer but like most people you just talk about irrelevant crap. On and on except what I was hoping to see. To much dam talking.
If not for this video I would have never figured out how to adjust my front derailleur for my triple front sprocket set. Thanks for making it simple.
thanks again for another very helpful video , 🚴♀️💪
I had to pause 9:20 to read it hahaha! Took me a minute to do it because it was pretty quick. Love the joke tho.
Thanks, the other video I watched said to break the chain, which I definitely don’t wanna do, so I’m gonna go and check if I can undo the derailleur cage and slide it out this way.
Hi rj. I cannot shift into high gear. The shifter won't click also to high gear.. what's the solution?
this video didnt helpme at all when i try to do it like you my line is too stiff i did everything like you did why cant i change gears ?
I don't know. There are only three components. The shifter, the cable, and the derailleur. Figure out where the issue. My guess is you goofed somewhere.
About as clear as mud with all his hum's & em's & um's, not to mention a really annoying voice while he drawls on and on and on, not a good instructional video at all.
I have the same derailleur and I just cannot get it to shift I don't know if it's damaged or jammed up
what do you do with your bikes you work on per video
www.rjthebikeguy.com/faq/
Does anyone understand why RJ sets the cage to be touching the chain before attaching the gear cable, and then sets the cage so it is not quite touching the chain. I can't quite get my head around it.
Anyone else notice the spider bro cameo in the upper right at 4:15? Looks like he stops once he realizes he's on camera :D
How to proper install of 2chainring only.
@6:21 did you have the shifter in 1 or 3 ?,Thanks
1 .
Why does mine have to be pulled up???? Omg none of this makes any sense!!
Great video! My front derailleur fell victim to me, an allen wrench, pliers, a 6 pack and a lot of cuss words. Your step by step video was simple, concise and save me a trip to my local bike store for repairs from what I screwed up, THANKS,
Saved my bacon. Haven’t done bike maintenance in a decade and forgot all this info…
Thanks. Any opinion on lubing cables (which you didn't)?
I don’t know why derailleur makers don’t put a screw on their cages.I went ahead and put one on my derailleur so I don’t have to take the chain off.
I'm having problems finding a SRAM 2×11, 28/42t, 26.8 seatpost clamp, pull down front derailleur to upgrade my mtb. I find SRAM components to often be vague and hard to find at the same time requiring specific specifications to meet a match, you can't put certain SRAM XO FD with certain SRAM XO 2x10/11 cranksets also SRAM components seem to be confusing to understand due to inconsistant hierarchy understandings where Shimano is pretty straight forward.
Can I use a Shimano XT front derailleur setup to guide an XO 28/42T crankset?
Probably.
@@RJTheBikeGuy 100% Thank you!
I find SRAM MTB components to br very frustrating while Shim. is pretty much straight forward.
With SRAM there are too many specifications, one needs exact components where it's hard to "mix and match", the hierarchy scheme for me a "weekend enthusiast" is confusing where I don't know what chain and what cassette would go with an XO 2x10 crankset. They push this 1x11, 1x12 thing where most riders race the bike trails on the weekend and almost never actually ride a mountain trail.
100% Thanks!
I'm look at XTR, not so confusing.
what is the text that flashes for an instant somewhere between 9:20 and 9:21???
This man is a Tim and Eric character, but man does he know bikes
This is not a how to video. This is one guy replacing a specific derailleur. Worthless.
The concepts are the same for different front derailleurs! AH
why are cyclists like people who have been in prison ? 😉
Can you Mount a 29er fork on 26 frame???
Your hidden joke was very corny
When you say triple do youn mean a 3x7? can I put a braze on triple on a 3x7 29er.any one?
Triple is 3 chain rings. It can be 3x7 or 3x8 or 3x10 or whatever.
I truly hate front derailleurs.
How much tension when installing the cable?
what do you call the thing that guides the cable underneath the bottom bracket? i really need to know hope i can get an answer. thankyou.
Cable guide.
Can I remove the fd without cutting chain
By the way The main reason my bike is perfect for me is that I ride everywhere, street and the bike path !☺ FanTom
Good video and nice installation
Hey Rj my front 105 derailleur is kinda weird do you think it’s my height? So what happens is when I shift down in the front the chain links get stuck on top of my teeth of my front lower chainring whenever I shift to a lower gear in the front. And whenever I shift into a higher gear it goes back into place like a chain should. Do you thing that it’s my height on my front derailleur or do I just need to adjust it.
Ps. I’m gonna be honest I’m not to sure if it even is my front derailleur but I think it is so yeah thanks for your help
Not sure without working on it. It could even be a worn chain/chain rings.
Thanks I’ll try to replace my chain because my cassette and chainrings aren’t worn out yet thanks again like 3 times for your help ! Hope you still get better from your injury !
Because im tried to install my fd. But it touches the arm. Cause for scratch.
I don't know what you are asking/describing.
I am in the process of installing a Shimano 105 FD5504 on my son's 2001 9 speed. I torque the clamp bolt and the cable bolt to about 55 inch pounds (not ft lbs). Nice video. I should probably invest in new shifter cables too.
Thanks for the article.
After struggling with front Derailleur Adjustment and consulting innumerable articles and UA-cam videos I just about gave up until I discovered one additional factor in proper derailleur shifting, Crank Bolt Tension.
While inspecting my bike, I noticed a very slight "play" and a new "sound" during a ride. I realized that the crank was a little loose.
When I tightened the crank bolt, I realized it was way looser than the manufacturers torque specs. Once I tightened the crank bolt, it brought the outside chain ring a little closer in, enough to make a significant difference in the range of the derailleur.
Hope this helps.
If you were riding with the crank bolt loose, you may have damaged the mating surfaces in the crank arm. The crank arm is held on by friction. It's pressed on. The bolt is used to tighten it on, and help keep it from coming loose. If the surfaces are damaged, you may have a problem with it continually coming loose.
I love bikes. I've got to subscribe.
RJ, your videos are pretty great, except this one. The barrel adjuster makes no sense in this video...which way is “in”? Does “in” make the cable tighter or slacker? Without that reference, the test of the adjustments make no sense.
If you watch, you see which way I am turning the adjuster as I am saying in and out. In is moving the adjust in, and out is moving the adjuster out.
In is in, out is out. Don't get your issue. Plus, you see him doing it