great videos mate. you explain it all very well. I have been through exactly what you are and i wish I could be ther to help you. dont worry once you have done all the work it will be so much easier next time. I do recommend using spray grease though on all the suspension components and every other part that moves. minis rust very badly and need a lot of care...but bloody good fun to drive.
Hi and thanks for commenting. Yep I’m definitely on a learning curve! Every job I’ve done has been a fight against rusted or seized parts! But finally getting to the end of the jobs and getting on the road. Will defo slap grease/wd40 on everything ready for next time. Glad you are enjoying watching the videos it makes the production of them worth while.
Another great video.. interested to find out if bearing should turn freely or not. Just had to do rear brakes and noticed one hub turns freely and the other one is harder to turn just like yours. So not sure which is right. Keep up the videos 👍🏼
Hi and thanks for the comment. Glad you are enjoying the videos, makes the effort of production worth while. Regarding the tight bearings time will tell if they are tight and start to get hot when driven. If they fail then I will replace using Timken bearings, I may have succumbed to the old saying buy cheap buy twice…time will tell but they are guaranteed for 2 years so they will be sent back if they fail.
I was always told you tighten the hub nut until the hub finds resistance then back it off slightly and insert the split pin. the torque setting in the Haynes seems very high for NM but when did Haynes ever get anything wrong lol.
Thanks for the comment. It could very well be I have made the age old mistakes of but cheap buy twice. I am very near test driving the cooper so I suppose time will tell if the bearings get hot and fail due to being tight or not. If they do…Timken bearings it is! Thanks for the info re grease type.
great videos mate. you explain it all very well. I have been through exactly what you are and i wish I could be ther to help you. dont worry once you have done all the work it will be so much easier next time. I do recommend using spray grease though on all the suspension components and every other part that moves. minis rust very badly and need a lot of care...but bloody good fun to drive.
Hi and thanks for commenting. Yep I’m definitely on a learning curve! Every job I’ve done has been a fight against rusted or seized parts! But finally getting to the end of the jobs and getting on the road. Will defo slap grease/wd40 on everything ready for next time. Glad you are enjoying watching the videos it makes the production of them worth while.
Another great video.. interested to find out if bearing should turn freely or not. Just had to do rear brakes and noticed one hub turns freely and the other one is harder to turn just like yours. So not sure which is right. Keep up the videos 👍🏼
Hi and thanks for the comment. Glad you are enjoying the videos, makes the effort of production worth while. Regarding the tight bearings time will tell if they are tight and start to get hot when driven. If they fail then I will replace using Timken bearings, I may have succumbed to the old saying buy cheap buy twice…time will tell but they are guaranteed for 2 years so they will be sent back if they fail.
I was always told you tighten the hub nut until the hub finds resistance then back it off slightly and insert the split pin.
the torque setting in the Haynes seems very high for NM but when did Haynes ever get anything wrong lol.
Hi and thanks for the comment. I did think that the torque was high my torque wrench tops out at 200nm!
Looks like you bought cheap bearings, pay the extra and get Timken bearings. Lithium grease is also better.
Thanks for the comment. It could very well be I have made the age old mistakes of but cheap buy twice. I am very near test driving the cooper so I suppose time will tell if the bearings get hot and fail due to being tight or not. If they do…Timken bearings it is! Thanks for the info re grease type.