I had a 1964 260 T10 Fatura. Original tires 650x13. It was a 5 lug car. I got a set of F70-14 Jetson radial tires. This is was 1970 when radial tires were not a common tire. I took the car to an old country boy alignment shop. At the time there were no alignment specs for the car. He did a lot of shimming and off the top of his head adjustments. The Falcon was the easiest driving car I have ever had. It was not harsh like my BMW. It was smooth.
Ive got a 63 falcon I rebuilt the front end on. I did the Arning drop, shortened the coil springs by an inch. New lower control arms, rebuilt uppers, replaced strut rod bushings, and added a 1” sway bar....
I love good information about how to make Falcon-chassis cars handle well with stock-based components. There's so much support on the internet for putting an MII-style suspension in these cars, but that's a huge cost and takes your car off the road for a considerable amount of time. There are also complete, bolt-in suspensions which work well. They're even more than an MII setup without considering labor, and you have to buy/install it all at once.
There are reasons for each. I like the RRS suspension (not just because my wife is a rep for them LOL) because it will out perform the Mustang II and the stock stuff. It also bolts in in a day. It's expensive, but has a five year warranty, and can be removed and the stock stuff put back in. The hardtop we have will be getting the full RRS treatment in the next coupe months so stay tuned.
@@AutoRestoMod that's high quality product, no way about it. There's still a big place for "improved stock" on cars which are just weekend cruisers or are low dollar, garage builds. I really enjoy a good garage build.
This is great stuff. I used those perches on my 68 Torino GT convertible. Along with Global West lower arms, alignment kit, springs and a set of drop upper control arms. A set of Eaton rear springs and QA1 adjusts springs on all four corners. Rids and handles like a dream!!
Very informative .... Thx ! When I did my 61 Falcon V8 swap from a 72 maverick I used 66 Mustang upper and lower A-frames to accommodate for the larger ball joints , steering column out of a 68 Mustang . all of the maverick parts were pretty much a straight up swap . Brake lines , master cylinder etc.
I owned a 1964 Falcon Future Conv over 20 years. I used every item you displayed from Auto Krafters and they did do the job, unfortunately they didn’t offer the roller bearing parts then. Thank you
I did the same Open Tracker roller spring perches, roller idler arm, and adjustable QA1 Shock similar to the Viking you have. 1 1/8 sway bar because I have a 390. I also installed 620 grab-track-springs. Still plan to install the 1" arning drop. I will install Street or Track A arms and that should wrap up my front suspension. Please cover camber in more detail on the video.
To think.... After being a Ford Tech as a Career, plus building Race Cars for almost 35 years - I had NEVER heard of a Shelby Drop!!! 😲😳 Of course the only Car I ever had with that Suspension type was a 70 Ford Maverick, until 1984. Since then, 17 Foxbodies, 6 SN95s, 5 Camaros, 4 Monte Carlos and a Grand National.... But still I'm embarrassed for not knowing that! I always knew that the Front End Geometry SUCKED in those Cars. The Ball Bearing Components are Brilliant, especially the Idler Arm. Always knew the advantage of Caster - running as much as 10-11 degrees in some Race Cars. I cannot WAIT to see this go together!!! 😁 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Great info! I have the OpenTrackerRacing suspension parts ready to install on my ‘65 Falcon wagon. I’m looking forward to seeing the difference this summer 😁 OTR is also offering a 16:1 manual steering box for Falcons as well for guys like me that that have a manual steering setup. This is the same box as used in the early GT Mustangs. While the steering effort will be a bit more at low speeds it should be great for steering response!
I just did the 1" drop on my 1966 Falcon Ranchero. I had an issue on the left side UCA rear grease Zerk. There is no way to grease the UCA bushing through the shock tower. The 1" drop puts it down too low. The steering box is in the way. The previous owner had torched a hole for greasing at the stock position. I had to use a 90 degree Zerk fitting and pound the crap out of the shock tower to make clearance for the grease gun tip through the wheel well.
Dazecars makes a diy roller perch kit, yes I want to see the open track stuff with the Viking gear. Also Dazecars has a good set of specs for a radial tire suspension alignment.
Best thing you can do to these cars is the Shelby drop and adjustable caster/strut rods. Get about 3 degrees positive caster and she'll track like a dream. All in all $130 total.
The shelby drop works great for the 66 through 69 fairlane and it does drop front alittle but also straightens the steering arms out to get rid of the bump steering
@@AutoRestoMod would like to see the disc brake swap on a 66 thro 69 fairlane from drum to disc from a Lincoln Granada or Versailles for front end. Aslo I'm putting a Versailles disc rear end in my 66 fairlane with 69 disc front spindles if you have any pointers or thoughts on this.
Open Tracker Website says lower arm camber kit is “for the qualified fabricator who has done this type of work before. It is not for the first timer or someone who is not familiar with these cars. Welding, trimming and grinding required”. I have installed their Roller idler arm, roller spring perch and Delrin mono ball strut rod bushing set on my 66 mustang.
Hello, I really enjoy your instructional videos on the falcon/ranchero. Am I to assume that the information for the 1964 Ranchero is also correct for my 1961 Ranchero because it sure looks the same?
Fine Tuning ride height. slight increases. remove shock.. use spring compressor to pull the spring upward. remove spring perch.. knock out bolts. replace with slightly longer grade 8 bolts and pickup a bag of 3/8 grade 8 flat washers.. and new grade 8 nuts. now you can put grade 8 flat washers between the bottom of the spring perch cross bar and the top of the upper control arm. this effectively moves the upper control arm farther down and brings your ride height up. i normally put a grade 8 flat washer on the underside of the upper control arm also.. before the nut goes on.. so i am sure i am spreading the load. i did this on my 70 Ranchero and drove it that way for 2 decades. please verify that your shocks are mid stroke when installed at ride height.. too many fairlanes and torinos have only an inch and a half of compression left in the shock stroke.. 66 and up.. you can change out the special carriage head bolts for some longer versions you have modified. you can make a 1" thick to 1-1/4 thick spacer to fit under the cage to put the stroke of the shock back closer to the middle. you can take the cage to a machine shop and have them knock out a pair of spacer plates ..
Don't forget that: 1) The Shelby drop is 1.5 inches. 2) Re-angles the ball joints to stop binding (1 inch drop prevents binding with stock BJ.) 3) Angles the control arm holes for caster/anti-dive change. (Compression increases caster.) 4) SHELBY lengthened the pitman arm (Galaxies) and idler arm for steering ratio increase and bump stop changes.
High durometer rubber bushings at the front of the strut rods will put a lot of load on the sheetmetal in the frame that the rods go through, and I've seen them crack time and time again. A better solution are the replacement rods with the heim ends that Global West and a few other companies sell. You can adjust camber with them as well.
I’ve read that if you go with adjustable strut rods that you also should go with a roller lower control arm. The additional loading on the rubber bushings with adjustable strut rods will wear them out rather quickly.
@@AutoRestoMod So you guys would not recommend polyurethane bushings for the strut rods? My car does not get a lot of road time but has had them for 3 decades. And I thrashed it pretty hard a few times. Very stiff ride from the kit I got way back then. On a 66 Mustang.
I have the Delrin strut rod bushings for the Falcon - wondering now if the rod end type setup is better for the street. I’m envisioning now that the Delrin setup will apply a bending load to the front mount (which could crack it) as compared to the rod end which will not apply the same load to the mount. Hmmm...
A year ago you did a video about 64/65 Falcon door interchangeability. I have a 1963.5 Falcon two-door hardtop sprint that needs a driver's side door. Do you know if a any other year or body style may fit? I posted the same question are the aforementioned video as well. I have been a fan for a while. Keep up the good work!
I have been thinking about purchasing an old Falcon recently. Its body is really good and not messed up real bad. I’m 14 and have about 2k raised. Do you think I could fix up a decent shape one at my age with 2k?
Good stuff for road. I would like some info on Drag set up. Have a '64 Falcon, 351W, Mark Williams 4 link rear, reverse valve body C4 w/ratchet shifter, disc all around. Running mid 11's when I let up at traps I can barely hold it together. It goes very straight while power to rear end but is a handful until under 90 MPH.
I think we've already talked about it on the phone Ray, but they do have a lightweight single piston caliper set up on the suspension that works really well really really well. And if you want to go in and put more engine and say a Coyote, or a big block there's stuff can handle that because they have shock tower notching kits.
@@AutoRestoMod Yes, I spoke with Jeff Ford on the phone. Great guy and good advice. If I were worried about cornering and ride, I would do all of these options you have laid out. My problem is that I just want to go straight. My car gets loose over 110 MPH and at 125+MPH it is a handful. Ray
About 30 mins. from my house is a 1962 Falcon 2 door that has been sitting on a carport and up on jack stands for about 15 years. I should most likely not go ask about it but there is an empty space in my yard sooooo...
64 Factory V8 Ranchero. Tried to do the Shelby (sorry Arnie) drop. My upper control arms are way big. The big ends to the body has so little clearance, it could be measured with a few playing cards. 1 " down and 1" back; not a chance. Any answer as why so little space?
Hey! I just got off the phone with Clifford at Vi-king about front coilovers for the Bonneville... Let me know if you have a sponsorship thing because I'll name drop when I purchase!
Where do you get the roller idler arm? I have yet to put my roller spring perches on and could probably benefit from more caster. The Shelby drop lowered the front of my wagon about 3/4” easy. Sway bars sure do help and any bracing like the Monte Carlo bar and sub frame connectors all add to a super solid ride!
I really appreciate your knowledge and videos the question I have is for my 1961 Ranchero . I’m i’m having problems finding the correct lower ball joint arm it does not mount up correctly to my strut rod. Will the years of 1965 be basically the same set up as a 1961
I don't know if the strut rod on the early Falcons are the same length. Those are non adjustable, so that would be important. Lots of companies make adjustable strut rods for those cars, unless it is a restoration, I would look at getting a set of those.
@@AutoRestoMod actually these rods are adjustable but for some reason every time I order the lower ball joint arm the two bolts never match up Joining the street rod. I was just wondering if I can order everything from a different year where it’s all compatible
Ive been researching coil overs for a month, I think I’m more confused now, so many options. Ive got a 63 falcon with a V8 looking for a great company that sells just the coil over upgrade. Im looking for a suspension upgrade and mainly height adjustment capability.
Great Video as always! What are your thoughts of using a heim-joint type adjustable strut rods, such as the ones fabricated by DazeCars. Love to get your opinion. Thanks
Could someone please help me. I have a 63 ford fairlane 500. Been trying to find a trunk pan for it. It's similar to a mustang pan same measurements as the mustang trunk pan but a bit deeper in the rear and the front is a bit more of a slope. 54/1/2 w and 38/1/2 L
I have a 63 Falcon and the idler arm bracket is a three hole and i havnt been able to find a idler arm that fits it because it is of a larger diameter. Any sugeestions of anyone that makes a roller bearing idler arm for that style of bracket, and what was the reason that some Falcons came with that bracket, I see some replacement idlers for v8 but they are the two whole straight bracket
I see you put a unisteer setup on other Ford cars I have one on my 65 falcon and I am only getting 1-1/4 from center to lock called unisteer and they said they quit making the falcon setup. They told me to make sure I had it centered up but still only gives me 1 1/4 to lock am I missing something. Thank you for all your info.
@@AutoRestoMod I'll see if I can get pic's of the rack at lock and the location of the wheels ,Center to lock is 2 1/2 turns on there web site & that is what she told me on the phone. If you need a different location let me know.
i read on a mustang forum that they use an original 63 falcon strut rod (thas adjustable) to put on a 66 mustang so you can adjust these of the mustang . do you know if they will fit or did you do this by yourself on a mustang 66? Thanks for the vids
I have a 63 falcon with the stock suspension. I currently have 15x7 rims with 205/60. I want to put a larger wider rim, but where the upper controller arm connects to the wheel it’s bent out towards the rim and it gives me about an inch clearance. I’ll need more to fit a wider rim/tire. Will I have the same problem with this suspension?
Your bigger problem is going to be tire rub. I have 225/45VR16 tires on 16x7 rims on the '64 hardtop we have here. I'd start quizzing guys on the Falcon Groups on Facebook and see what they are running. Those cars won't see a ton of width without mods due to chassis issues.
I had a 1964 260 T10 Fatura. Original tires 650x13. It was a 5 lug car. I got a set of F70-14 Jetson radial tires. This is was 1970 when radial tires were not a common tire. I took the car to an old country boy alignment shop. At the time there were no alignment specs for the car. He did a lot of shimming and off the top of his head adjustments. The Falcon was the easiest driving car I have ever had. It was not harsh like my BMW. It was smooth.
Ive got a 63 falcon I rebuilt the front end on. I did the Arning drop, shortened the coil springs by an inch. New lower control arms, rebuilt uppers, replaced strut rod bushings, and added a 1” sway bar....
Good moves!
Great recommendations! Opentracker racing is the BEST!
Thanks for the kind words! Good folks over there for sure.
Ball bearing idler kits for all cars were a common parts store upgrade back in the 60s. No vertical flex/ toe change is the most valuable aspect.
Agreed!
I love good information about how to make Falcon-chassis cars handle well with stock-based components. There's so much support on the internet for putting an MII-style suspension in these cars, but that's a huge cost and takes your car off the road for a considerable amount of time. There are also complete, bolt-in suspensions which work well. They're even more than an MII setup without considering labor, and you have to buy/install it all at once.
There are reasons for each. I like the RRS suspension (not just because my wife is a rep for them LOL) because it will out perform the Mustang II and the stock stuff. It also bolts in in a day. It's expensive, but has a five year warranty, and can be removed and the stock stuff put back in. The hardtop we have will be getting the full RRS treatment in the next coupe months so stay tuned.
@@AutoRestoMod that's high quality product, no way about it. There's still a big place for "improved stock" on cars which are just weekend cruisers or are low dollar, garage builds. I really enjoy a good garage build.
This is great stuff. I used those perches on my 68 Torino GT convertible. Along with Global West lower arms, alignment kit, springs and a set of drop upper control arms. A set of Eaton rear springs and QA1 adjusts springs on all four corners. Rids and handles like a dream!!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for your time and effort most appreciated from New Zealand
You are welcome!
Very informative .... Thx !
When I did my 61 Falcon V8 swap from a 72 maverick I used 66 Mustang upper and lower A-frames to accommodate for the larger ball joints , steering column out of a 68 Mustang . all of the maverick parts were pretty much a straight up swap .
Brake lines , master cylinder etc.
That's one of the beauties about Ford some things just almost never changed. But yet there are things within that that changed exponentially lol.
I owned a 1964 Falcon Future Conv over 20 years. I used every item you displayed from Auto Krafters and they did do the job, unfortunately they didn’t offer the roller bearing parts then.
Thank you
They do have the Opentracker roller bearings now.
That's a sweet looking upper control arm....
Nicer than anything outside of the floor pan!
I did the same Open Tracker roller spring perches, roller idler arm, and adjustable QA1 Shock similar to the Viking you have. 1 1/8 sway bar because I have a 390. I also installed 620 grab-track-springs. Still plan to install the 1" arning drop. I will install Street or Track A arms and that should wrap up my front suspension. Please cover camber in more detail on the video.
We'll do. I want to show the difference that the Arning drop makes, It might be a separate video.
As always good info for those classic Fords out there.
Thank you!
To think.... After being a Ford Tech as a Career, plus building Race Cars for almost 35 years - I had NEVER heard of a Shelby Drop!!! 😲😳
Of course the only Car I ever had with that Suspension type was a 70 Ford Maverick, until 1984. Since then, 17 Foxbodies, 6 SN95s, 5 Camaros, 4 Monte Carlos and a Grand National....
But still I'm embarrassed for not knowing that!
I always knew that the Front End Geometry SUCKED in those Cars.
The Ball Bearing Components are Brilliant, especially the Idler Arm.
Always knew the advantage of Caster - running as much as 10-11 degrees in some Race Cars.
I cannot WAIT to see this go together!!! 😁
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Never too old to learn. I still learn stuff and I have been messing with these cars since I was 14.
Lots of great information, thanks Jeff
Thank you for the kind words.
Thanks for your advice on that Daytona kit from the Aussied
You are welcome!
Thank you for the great content - I am a new subscriber from New York City. Be well!
Welcome aboard!
Great info! I have the OpenTrackerRacing suspension parts ready to install on my ‘65 Falcon wagon. I’m looking forward to seeing the difference this summer 😁
OTR is also offering a 16:1 manual steering box for Falcons as well for guys like me that that have a manual steering setup. This is the same box as used in the early GT Mustangs. While the steering effort will be a bit more at low speeds it should be great for steering response!
They have some cool stuff for sure. Great people to deal with as well.
*Agreed, never understood the high visibility orage/red bushings...*
I am not a fan, but some folks digum.
@@AutoRestoMod
They just don't look like they belong, a little weird looking for me...
Practice makes perfect. On your welding
Not so far...lol
I just did the 1" drop on my 1966 Falcon Ranchero. I had an issue on the left side UCA rear grease Zerk. There is no way to grease the UCA bushing through the shock tower. The 1" drop puts it down too low. The steering box is in the way. The previous owner had torched a hole for greasing at the stock position. I had to use a 90 degree Zerk fitting and pound the crap out of the shock tower to make clearance for the grease gun tip through the wheel well.
I've seen that before. Mine were close on one car and had to do the same metal moving method.
Holman-Moody used the A arm drop on their rally Falcons in 61.
Good to know!
Dazecars makes a diy roller perch kit, yes I want to see the open track stuff with the Viking gear.
Also Dazecars has a good set of specs for a radial tire suspension alignment.
I'll check the specs out. We used Daze rollers on the wagon.
@@AutoRestoMod he is also quick to give opentracker the credit for the roller perch design.
great info my 65 Ranchero will like the new front end - oregon
It should!
Love the suspension talk! Need more information on the shock treatment 🍻🍻
We are planning to put the Vi-King shocks in and go over the secs.
Great parts, I’m sure they’ll make a dramatic difference.
Yes.
Thanks for the info. Looking forward to seeing the suspension work on the Ranchero. Cheers!
Starting soon. Just waiting in springs.
Best thing you can do to these cars is the Shelby drop and adjustable caster/strut rods. Get about 3 degrees positive caster and she'll track like a dream. All in all $130 total.
True. Auto krafters sells an adjustable strut rod too. Found it after I shot this.
@@AutoRestoMod
Looking for that adjustable strut rod, link? 63 Falcon
The shelby drop works great for the 66 through 69 fairlane and it does drop front alittle but also straightens the steering arms out to get rid of the bump steering
Yup!
@@AutoRestoMod would like to see the disc brake swap on a 66 thro 69 fairlane from drum to disc from a Lincoln Granada or Versailles for front end. Aslo I'm putting a Versailles disc rear end in my 66 fairlane with 69 disc front spindles if you have any pointers or thoughts on this.
Interesting, thanks.
Open Tracker Website says lower arm camber kit is “for the qualified fabricator who has done this type of work before. It is not for the first timer or someone who is not familiar with these cars. Welding, trimming and grinding required”.
I have installed their Roller idler arm, roller spring perch and Delrin mono ball strut rod bushing set on my 66 mustang.
Yes to the qualified fabricator...still gonna try it. AIN'T SKEERT...also ain't my car.
Hello, I really enjoy your instructional videos on the falcon/ranchero. Am I to assume that the information for the 1964 Ranchero is also correct for my 1961 Ranchero because it sure looks the same?
Theoretically, the 1" Arning drop will lower the front by approx 1/2”. I did it on my 82 XE wagon and can confirm.
I have seen this as I said, I just don't want folks expecting a 1 inch drop from the mod.
Fine Tuning ride height. slight increases. remove shock.. use spring compressor to pull the spring upward. remove spring perch.. knock out bolts. replace with slightly longer grade 8 bolts and pickup a bag of 3/8 grade 8 flat washers.. and new grade 8 nuts. now you can put grade 8 flat washers between the bottom of the spring perch cross bar and the top of the upper control arm. this effectively moves the upper control arm farther down and brings your ride height up. i normally put a grade 8 flat washer on the underside of the upper control arm also.. before the nut goes on.. so i am sure i am spreading the load. i did this on my 70 Ranchero and drove it that way for 2 decades.
please verify that your shocks are mid stroke when installed at ride height.. too many fairlanes and torinos have only an inch and a half of compression left in the shock stroke.. 66 and up.. you can change out the special carriage head bolts for some longer versions you have modified. you can make a 1" thick to 1-1/4 thick spacer to fit under the cage to put the stroke of the shock back closer to the middle. you can take the cage to a machine shop and have them knock out a pair of spacer plates ..
Cool idea Wayne!
Great episode!
Thanks, digging the World War II Wessel build on your channel too!
Shelby drop also improves bump steer I have it done on my 69 mustang 👍😊
Good to know!
Don't forget that:
1) The Shelby drop is 1.5 inches.
2) Re-angles the ball joints to stop binding (1 inch drop prevents binding with stock BJ.)
3) Angles the control arm holes for caster/anti-dive change. (Compression increases caster.)
4) SHELBY lengthened the pitman arm (Galaxies) and idler arm for steering ratio increase and bump stop changes.
High durometer rubber bushings at the front of the strut rods will put a lot of load on the sheetmetal in the frame that the rods go through, and I've seen them crack time and time again. A better solution are the replacement rods with the heim ends that Global West and a few other companies sell. You can adjust camber with them as well.
I’ve read that if you go with adjustable strut rods that you also should go with a roller lower control arm. The additional loading on the rubber bushings with adjustable strut rods will wear them out rather quickly.
The rubber bushing is a replacement, and is a high duronomony rubber, urethane is the one that can crack mounts or break rods.
@@AutoRestoMod So you guys would not recommend polyurethane bushings for the strut rods? My car does not get a lot of road time but has had them for 3 decades. And I thrashed it pretty hard a few times. Very stiff ride from the kit I got way back then. On a 66 Mustang.
I have the Delrin strut rod bushings for the Falcon - wondering now if the rod end type setup is better for the street. I’m envisioning now that the Delrin setup will apply a bending load to the front mount (which could crack it) as compared to the rod end which will not apply the same load to the mount. Hmmm...
A year ago you did a video about 64/65 Falcon door interchangeability. I have a 1963.5 Falcon two-door hardtop sprint that needs a driver's side door. Do you know if a any other year or body style may fit? I posted the same question are the aforementioned video as well.
I have been a fan for a while. Keep up the good work!
Oh - I forgot to mention - I noticed Diona was enjoying the Falcon in the opening shot. She really likes that car.....
Far too much...keeps saying "my" instead of "your"...
I have been thinking about purchasing an old Falcon recently. Its body is really good and not messed up real bad. I’m 14 and have about 2k raised. Do you think I could fix up a decent shape one at my age with 2k?
maybe
Great info. Will this also aply to the 1963 Ford Fairlane V8
The '63 to '65 Fairlane is on a planet by it self. I plan to look into stuff for those cars and do a small episode for you folks in the future.
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Learned a lot today, thank you very much:))
Glad to hear that!
Good stuff for road. I would like some info on Drag set up. Have a '64 Falcon, 351W, Mark Williams 4 link rear, reverse valve body C4 w/ratchet shifter, disc all around. Running mid 11's when I let up at traps I can barely hold it together. It goes very straight while power to rear end but is a handful until under 90 MPH.
I think we've already talked about it on the phone Ray, but they do have a lightweight single piston caliper set up on the suspension that works really well really really well. And if you want to go in and put more engine and say a Coyote, or a big block there's stuff can handle that because they have shock tower notching kits.
@@AutoRestoMod Yes, I spoke with Jeff Ford on the phone. Great guy and good advice. If I were worried about cornering and ride, I would do all of these options you have laid out. My problem is that I just want to go straight. My car gets loose over 110 MPH and at 125+MPH it is a handful. Ray
Nice!
Thanks!
Awesome video - what are your thoughts on the bolt in coilover conversions versus replacing spring, shock, and installing the roller perch?
The roller set up will only give you so much sugar for your Nickle. If you want modern handling look to RRS-USA.com or StreetorTrack.com
same for a 1965 V8 Ranchero
Yup!
Nice
About 30 mins. from my house is a 1962 Falcon 2 door that has been sitting on a carport and up on jack stands for about 15 years. I should most likely not go ask about it but there is an empty space in my yard sooooo...
Do iiiiittt.
64 Factory V8 Ranchero. Tried to do the Shelby (sorry Arnie) drop. My upper control arms are way big. The big ends to the body has so little clearance, it could be measured with a few playing cards. 1 " down and 1" back; not a chance. Any answer as why so little space?
Hey! I just got off the phone with Clifford at Vi-king about front coilovers for the Bonneville... Let me know if you have a sponsorship thing because I'll name drop when I purchase!
We don't but do let them know you saw it on our show.
What about maverick setup 70 to 77
What is the least expensive way to covert my 64 and 65 falcons to 5 lug?
Another great video Jeff. The volume on your voice seemed a little low/muffled in case you can do something to fix it next time.
We are having mic issues that I will be fixing in a month. But we can work it in the mean time. Thanks for the heads up.
Can one get some of this stuff for Fairlane? Great videos,thanks!
Yes you can! Auto Krafters and OpenTracker carry a full line of suspension goodies.
Where do you get the roller idler arm? I have yet to put my roller spring perches on and could probably benefit from more caster. The Shelby drop lowered the front of my wagon about 3/4” easy. Sway bars sure do help and any bracing like the Monte Carlo bar and sub frame connectors all add to a super solid ride!
Opentracker Racing carries them
I really appreciate your knowledge and videos the question I have is for my 1961 Ranchero . I’m i’m having problems finding the correct lower ball joint arm it does not mount up correctly to my strut rod. Will the years of 1965 be basically the same set up as a 1961
I don't know if the strut rod on the early Falcons are the same length. Those are non adjustable, so that would be important. Lots of companies make adjustable strut rods for those cars, unless it is a restoration, I would look at getting a set of those.
@@AutoRestoMod actually these rods are adjustable but for some reason every time I order the lower ball joint arm the two bolts never match up Joining the street rod. I was just wondering if I can order everything from a different year where it’s all compatible
6 and V8 cars differ.
Any suspension upgrades for a 1962 Falcon?
Best bet is to follow what we do on this Ranchero. It is a 6 originally and we'll be covering the changes needed to go to V8.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks I’m getting ready to convert my 62 from 4 to 5 lug
Ive been researching coil overs for a month, I think I’m more confused now, so many options.
Ive got a 63 falcon with a V8 looking for a great company that sells just the coil over upgrade. Im looking for a suspension upgrade and mainly height adjustment capability.
email me.
Great Video as always! What are your thoughts of using a heim-joint type adjustable strut rods, such as the ones fabricated by DazeCars. Love to get your opinion. Thanks
I think the idea is pretty sound, but it will transfer a lot of road noise into the car.
Urethane is harsh enough.
But lasts for decades
Could someone please help me. I have a 63 ford fairlane 500. Been trying to find a trunk pan for it. It's similar to a mustang pan same measurements as the mustang trunk pan but a bit deeper in the rear and the front is a bit more of a slope. 54/1/2 w and 38/1/2 L
I remember when you couldn't give away a used Falcon. Now you can't find a clean one that doesn't cost a fortune.
Times change. I miss those days though.
I have a 63 Falcon and the idler arm bracket is a three hole and i havnt been able to find a idler arm that fits it because it is of a larger diameter. Any sugeestions of anyone that makes a roller bearing idler arm for that style of bracket, and what was the reason that some Falcons came with that bracket, I see some replacement idlers for v8 but they are the two whole straight bracket
Autokrafters does not show additional shims in their online catalog. where can I get some various thickness shims?
Harbor Freight. Pretty sure they don't crack either...
I see you put a unisteer setup on other Ford cars I have one on my 65 falcon and I am only getting 1-1/4 from center to lock called unisteer and they said they quit making the falcon setup. They told me to make sure I had it centered up but still only gives me 1 1/4 to lock am I missing something. Thank you for all your info.
That isn't encouraging. Can you send me some pictures of the steering system at lock? Jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod I'll see if I can get pic's of the rack at lock and the location of the wheels ,Center to lock is 2 1/2 turns on there web site & that is what she told me on the phone. If you need a different location let me know.
God-like info!
i read on a mustang forum that they use an original 63 falcon strut rod (thas adjustable) to put on a 66 mustang so you can adjust these of the mustang . do you know if they will fit or did you do this by yourself on a mustang 66?
Thanks for the vids
Not sure that Ford ever had adjustable strut rods for the early Falcon.
I have a 63 falcon with the stock suspension. I currently have 15x7 rims with 205/60. I want to put a larger wider rim, but where the upper controller arm connects to the wheel it’s bent out towards the rim and it gives me about an inch clearance. I’ll need more to fit a wider rim/tire. Will I have the same problem with this suspension?
Your bigger problem is going to be tire rub. I have 225/45VR16 tires on 16x7 rims on the '64 hardtop we have here. I'd start quizzing guys on the Falcon Groups on Facebook and see what they are running. Those cars won't see a ton of width without mods due to chassis issues.
Inline 6 62 falcon suspension, how do improve it, without breaking the bank?
Omar, If you want to "open up" your horizons, the V* suspension and steering stuff will bolt up to your car.
This fit for 1965 comet
All day brada.
Love that car
Thanks. We hope you'll love it more when we are done!
49 views but 9 likes guys come on we can do better than that🙄🙄🙄👍👍👍🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
Word. Those are rookie numbers people!
dont have to make my classic handle better as long as i keep my ole lady out from behind the wheel, hshs
Hahahahaha
help us out with some 67 parts please!!!! @autorestomod
OK.