For the steering, the factory drag link isn’t the issue but the tie rod is, a cheap upgrade for a TJ is the tie rod off a V8 ZJ as it was a solid bar not a hollow one like the factory TJ tie rod. The brakes aren’t horrible, remember the TJ is a small vehicle, it wasn’t designed for big tires. So running the factory axle on 35’s or smaller is really all that’s recommended. It’s not just a issue of the brakes but also the ball joints and unit bearings. The TJ was peak jeep but you need to understand it’s limits with factory components, if you are on 37’s or larger you need to look at a axle swap. The wheelbase isn’t really a issue either as long as you keep it on 35’s or smaller. People get so stuck on tire size now a days and they don’t understand that a TJ with a 4” lift on 33’s that’s setup properly and has a good driver will go anywhere. It’s not meant to be a big jeep. The axle housings on both the jk and the JL are technically weaker than the TJ. JK’s like to bend c’s and housings and the JL has a CAD which is proven to be a weak design. To me it sounds like you don’t understand what makes the TJ so great. The rust issue is a serious issue. Other than that the TJ is peak wrangler
I drilled 1/2” holes in the bottom of the frame in the gap between the control arm pivot point and the mounting brackets at all 4 mounts. I then pack the frame with grease every fall and run a drain snake on a high speed drill front to back on each side which coats the inside of the frame with the grease.
My dad is getting up there in age. He sold me his 2000 TJ with the inline 6 for $3.5k ( the father-son discount) with 140k miles, zero frame rust (no snow here in the California bay area )and all original. I must say this thing is a joy to work on and drive. I love its small size and nimbleness. I owned a 3rd gen tacoma before getting this TJ and I must say its growing on me very fast! Am I slowly being converted to a Jeep guy?? lol
Define or what do you call "getting up there in age?" I am the original owner of a TJ, and, let me tell you, I would never part company with it. Give me an age number. The last time I recall, there was not an age number stamped on a person's forehead.
@@edilbertojimenez2791I have an 05 TJ running 33s on a 2 inch lift. I took the 35 out and put a Dana 44 with an E locker in the rear , and put 4:56 gears in it with a LocRight in the 30 up front. I live in the Sierra Nevada Foothills and when the weather gets bad, this is my baby. I’m the 2nd owner, and I glad I purchased it.
My frame rust was ahead of the rear tire, in the frame elbow. I opened my frame and cleaned it out, and painted the inside before I welded the patches back in. I haven't had steering problems, but I'm running 33s. Not huge tires. I love the short wheelbase. Yes, ledges can be tricky, but so can squeezing in tight spots, when 4 doors are just too big. Jeeps weren't supposed to be that big.
I'm in Texas, so my top 5 are not the same as up north with all the winter road salt. Love your Jeep, sweet. As for lifts, and just my opinion, 35" just look right vs say 37''s I have the same fenders....I'd be interested to know how you got a clean look under the hood?, one being moving the air box and fuse housing?
The frame rust is promoted by the side holes letting everything into the frame and no drain holes to wash it out, plus road salt eats everything unless you keep it well washed and treated with some type of rust inhibitor. Most any vehicle has weak links, but the steering linkage was a bit weak for an off-road vehicle, but there are upgrades available. Loved the small size and nimbleness of my TJ, been parked a couple of years now waiting for some tender loving care, working on the wife's TJ currently. Built an off-road only jeep to avoid destroying my TJ, downside being it must be trailered everywhere.
Here in Australia I'm thankful that we don't have the same common frame rot issues, but the rest of the list is definitely relatable. One major downfall I think is the slip yoke on the non-Rubicon TJ's. Another would be the D35 in the back, not an issue here in Aus since all TJ's came with D44's, but still notable. With the brakes, some people here adapt later model Ford Falcon discs and rotors to the TJ/XJ knuckles. A decent upgrade over stock. Great video all round!
6, the battery sensor underneath the battery. On a hot day it lowers the charging rate and causes your battery to die. I called interstate battery and checked. The temp management is not needed and was taken out of the later year designs. I replaced the sensor with a 14k ohm resistor and no problems for over a year.
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 the test engineer at interstate battery said the batteries now prefer 14V constant charge, and that there will be no issues caused by this. You are just tricking the system into thinking it is 80 degrees outside. In the CA heat it is an issue +100F days it causes the charge rate to be too low, draining the battery. You don’t notice because guys usually try swapping in bigger alternators because they don’t realize the issue is the sensor.
@@JDelta777 i have the facyory 150 amp alternator on my 98 Grand Cherokee.. notice no diff. But hey maybe ur right. Maybe youre not. My older Jeep grand wagoneer doesnt have it. And charges constantly at 14.0-14.4v and its battery leaks from the caps a little i suspected its from overcharging it. As its the same battery and same amperage alterbatir 150a
I watched this to see what the down falls of the TJ was, mine is a 97 with 2.5 and near factory size tires. I finished the video and the only thing I found to be a problem was the frame. I used to have a 1942 Ford Military with the original engine and 600/16 tires and made an awful lot of guys hang their heads with big tires, big power etc. when I played around them while they were stuck putting on chains to go up a hill. Some may like what you advocate, and that is for you and what you do, many of us do not like to need a ladder to get in the rig, especially at 82. I did enjoy the video though.
There's a bug in the computer where it will run the RPM's high around 2k. You have to unplug the battery for 15 minutes and reconnect it. It will reset the computer and you will no longer have that issue. It is a common problem for anyone experiencing that.
I wish the 242 case has an option on the TJ's it be nice when you're dealing with constant transitions from loose/slippery surfaces to dry or patch roadways.
In regards to the breaks you are able to upgrade to WJ knuckles and brakes and run and lager rotor and a dual piston setup. There is not lot of options due to the dana 30 being such a weak axle.
Best way to address several of your negatives....do an axel swap. That also brings you better gearing and a much beefier setup overall. Those axels go really well in my '06 TJ that has been re-powered with a GM LT350 motor.
Issue #6 would be the _weakling Dana35c rear axle_ : anything above stock tire size and it'll grenade = mine broke at a stoplight after Jeep TJ hit a patch of new pavement paint for a crosswalk...it was raining heavily causing tire spin on the new water drenched new paint...rear aftermarket locker caused 30.8" tires to break the carrier after Jeep got traction again.
I know this is an older video, but are those Ridgid 55009 Headlights? If they are have you done a video on them. I’m looking to put them on my TJ, but there are hardly any reviews on them. I’m replacing all of my light to Ridgid. Yes they are expensive, but they are indestructible, and extremely bright, and they have a lifetime warranty.
Was fortunate to find an immaculate frame on my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn 4.0L after passing on many '00-'02 TJ Saharas with rotted out frames. Rear main seal is always an issue. Had to address that week one. My heater core needs to be replaced yet again after just getting it replaced in late '19! 🤨 I love the short wheelbase, it just harkens back to the amazing MB, my '05 Rocky Mtn is amazing off-road, so nimble and very capable. I see all these 4 dr limos just getting hung up all the time. Not fun dealing with limo winching, it's like watching flies ***k. I can't stand the site of 4 dr limos, especially ones with hardtops, seeing these types cocooning its passengers. That's not a f n Jeep! I got rid of that pathetic toothpick stock steering immediately, Chrysler absolutely sucks! Thank God they didn't replace the best engine ever put in any Jeep, the AMC 4.0 My last grip is the crows feet that are notorious especially on black TJ's like mine. Fortunately, my hood is mostly a hood vent now. Still, I have to paint this Rocky Mtn due to the lousy Chrysler paint. Jeep Born: 1941 Died: 2006
Used prices is a problem if you're a guy like me trying to find a quality TJ. Lots of junk out there for $13K+... very frustrating to get a quality one with no frame rust for under $16K,
Took me nearly a year but I found a 98 TJ with low miles and no rust for under $7K, new top, winch and tires with 5 speed, some small issues but it is 25 yrs. old, they are out there.
I’d just posted a question on the other TJ-flaws- video and I think I read a comment here about the gauge clusters going on and off. So must be a known issue?
Actually we have a local mechanic who only works only Jeeps. I have a TJ. Ask him what the best Jeep to own. He said a TJ with a 4.0 motor. Also mention to drill drain holes in frame.
At least with the TJ, you can make modifications to compensate for its shortcomings. The JK has so many sensors that can go faulty and absolutely destroy the engine, transmission, and gearbox. Not to mention the ridiculous amount of oil they burn through. I miss my TJ...😢
Wish I could get a gen5 G26 with gray, battlefield green, or least FDE frame, want another but want something other than black. Like the Gray, wish I could swap all Mine out for it but don’t feel like losing money selling Glocks and having to buy night sights just for color frame.
Thanks for stating the obvious. This video was about the Jeep Wrangler TJ, which happens to be one of the more notorious frames for rust. Not all vehicles suffer from rust as severe as these.
False... I've had cars with almost 300k miles with no rust. My jeep rusts just by looking at it... and I live in Dallas Texas... I have to coat the frame yearly and still find spots. Its a rust bucket
@@Dragon_Rider ...it is you who did not pay attention. His thesis is that rust is a jeep weakness. He did not acknowledge that it is for ANY iron based piece of equipment. So, rust is NOT exclusive to jeeps as he would like viewers to believe. He, and you, to it say as nicely as possible, are spreading disinformation.
JP Mag fit 35s on a TJ without a suspension lift pretty easily. How big does one REALLY need to go? A Rubicon TJ or LJ is "Peak Jeep". The newer Jeeps just aren't as simple or reliable, and the older leaf-sprung Jeeps weren't as comfortable. An LJ could even tow just as much as a JKU.
2004 Rubi factory except warn front bumper, brush guard, winch. I push my jeep to its limit, never felt the need to jack it up all crazy. My jeep is all kinds of beat up. People with their rigs all jacked up never seem to have many trail battle scars. 😂
JP Mag fit 35s on a TJ without a suspension lift pretty easily. A Rubicon TJ or LJ is "Peak Jeep". The newer Jeeps just aren't as simple or reliable, and the older leaf-sprung Jeeps weren't as comfortable. An LJ could even tow just as much as a JKU.
I cant see that working . I have 31s on mine and did some metal cloak arched fenders front and rear. And I have just a 2 in spacer lift. I know I can fit 33s easy but 35 might be pushing it without another 1 or 1.5 in lift
Whether or not you can see it working, JP Mag already DID it. They used opened fenders/hood, adjustable rear control arms to move the rear axle slightly more aft, rims of a very specific width/offset, and a 1" BL to facilitate high-clearance t-case/fueltank skids. Skinny 31s will fit a stock TJ/LJ.
you have to upgrade ALL Jeep steering if you put gigger tires on, so how is that a Major Flaw for the TJ's ? Nothing wrong with the wheel base, it is what you do with it. I know people that make the wheel base shorter then stock
@chriscarpenter5139 It's a well known issue and there's rust on pretty much every single one you're interested in buying. Takes a LONGGGGGG time to find a good condition one.
@@_everydayoffroad_I have a 2003 tj ,5 speed 4.0 with no rust at all. I keep it fluid filmed every other year. I love mine. Here from Maine. And no death wobble. Fixed that by putting on an adjustable castor on.
Most of these aren't flaws of the TJ. They're flaws of your modified Jeep in a poor climate. But instead of complaining, here's a few real flaws of the TJ (when left as jeep designed it) that I have encountered one way or another in my three years of ownership. The 00-06 4 liter cylinder heads can crack between the #3 and 4 cylinders (TUPY heads included), though its likelihood is a bit overexaggerated. The gauge cluster contacts can be intermittent causing cluster to turn on and off randomly. The cast iron engines water jacket is prone to rust formation and releasing sediment into the radiator core, requiring frequent back flushes. The heater core hoses are above the rad cap, requiring a vacuum fill or a very large funnel to bring coolant level above hoses in order to burp the system properly. The voltage regulator is not a part of the alternator like many Japanese cars, it is soldered to the ECU and the ECU is potted, making rework extremely difficult if it fails. The oil pressure gauges on the later TJ's are not accurate and instead function like an idiot light. Always point at 40psi unless extremely low or high. The fuse panels vary greatly by VIN, making troubleshooting electrical rather difficult. The rear track bar bolt on the axle side is extremely close to the gas tank, and requires a T55 torx. Extremely difficult to remove, and should never be reused as it was fully threaded rather than having a shank for the bushing to ride on. The threads get wallowed out by the bushing over the years. Not sure why Jeep made that mistake. Pretty big oversight. Overall they're great vehicles. I daily drive mine. 218,00 miles. Roughly 12,000 miles a year for the last three years.
Im not a fan of wranglers. Any of em.. Too small. No utilitarian use. Everyone has one. Narrow wheel base and flip too easily. I prefer FSJs or ZJs myself The frame rot on those though. If yours doesnt have it. Id consider drilling holes in the frame to help prevent it
Ethan stop making videos as if you know much of anything.. More wheeling and action content. Thankfully for yourself you finally replaced that terrible lift.
@@_everydayoffroad_ you’re welcome for the support, hope you make a million. More wheeling less talk. Your latest walk around of your TJ with your new lift explanation is lack severally. TJ wrangler fcbk group isn’t going to give you all the info you need. But good on you for finally replacing that terrible lift. You talking and giving bad information because of your lack of understanding won’t do you any favors. Just wheel and keep learning.
@@_everydayoffroad_ on a other note, you’re still too high. Uptravel lowers center of gravity, gains stability, and is more capable. Your factory rear sway is still of a hinderance. Far better than before though. Looks much better.
Might be bad things on the TJ, but I’d take one over a JK any day of the week!!! TJs we’re the last REAL Jeeps made
Yes!
I completely agree!
Second this
Agree
With the JK, I’ll take the 3.8 over that POS 3.6
For the steering, the factory drag link isn’t the issue but the tie rod is, a cheap upgrade for a TJ is the tie rod off a V8 ZJ as it was a solid bar not a hollow one like the factory TJ tie rod.
The brakes aren’t horrible, remember the TJ is a small vehicle, it wasn’t designed for big tires. So running the factory axle on 35’s or smaller is really all that’s recommended. It’s not just a issue of the brakes but also the ball joints and unit bearings.
The TJ was peak jeep but you need to understand it’s limits with factory components, if you are on 37’s or larger you need to look at a axle swap.
The wheelbase isn’t really a issue either as long as you keep it on 35’s or smaller.
People get so stuck on tire size now a days and they don’t understand that a TJ with a 4” lift on 33’s that’s setup properly and has a good driver will go anywhere. It’s not meant to be a big jeep.
The axle housings on both the jk and the JL are technically weaker than the TJ. JK’s like to bend c’s and housings and the JL has a CAD which is proven to be a weak design.
To me it sounds like you don’t understand what makes the TJ so great.
The rust issue is a serious issue.
Other than that the TJ is peak wrangler
You addressed a lot of issues I’m looking at, especially the steering. Want to get a good understanding on how do I keep my steering wheel straight
@ that’s just a adjustment of the drag link ( the one coming from the steering box ) itl probably take a few tries before it’s straight again
I drilled 1/2” holes in the bottom of the frame in the gap between the control arm pivot point and the mounting brackets at all 4 mounts. I then pack the frame with grease every fall and run a drain snake on a high speed drill front to back on each side which coats the inside of the frame with the grease.
My dad is getting up there in age. He sold me his 2000 TJ with the inline 6 for $3.5k ( the father-son discount) with 140k miles, zero frame rust (no snow here in the California bay area )and all original. I must say this thing is a joy to work on and drive. I love its small size and nimbleness. I owned a 3rd gen tacoma before getting this TJ and I must say its growing on me very fast! Am I slowly being converted to a Jeep guy?? lol
I had a rear ujoint go on my rear driveshaft - took all of 5 minutes to pull the tiny driveshaft and cruise home in 4h. Miss it, frame rust got it.
Define or what do you call "getting up there in age?" I am the original owner of a TJ, and, let me tell you, I would never part company with it. Give me an age number. The last time I recall, there was not an age number stamped on a person's forehead.
I just sold my 3rd Gen Taco and I am considering buying a TJ. This comment is very convincing.
@@edilbertojimenez2791I have an 05 TJ running 33s on a 2 inch lift. I took the 35 out and put a Dana 44 with an E locker in the rear , and put 4:56 gears in it with a LocRight in the 30 up front. I live in the Sierra Nevada Foothills and when the weather gets bad, this is my baby. I’m the 2nd owner, and I glad I purchased it.
My frame rust was ahead of the rear tire, in the frame elbow. I opened my frame and cleaned it out, and painted the inside before I welded the patches back in. I haven't had steering problems, but I'm running 33s. Not huge tires. I love the short wheelbase. Yes, ledges can be tricky, but so can squeezing in tight spots, when 4 doors are just too big. Jeeps weren't supposed to be that big.
Black magic brakes makes an upgraded knuckle to run a dual piston caliper with a 15 inch wheel and all the way up too 17 inch wheel
Good to know. Black magic makes some good stuff for our TJ’s
The stuff is pricey but top quality
Immediately came in here to say that! 👍🏼
Luv the products
I'm in Texas, so my top 5 are not the same as up north with all the winter road salt. Love your Jeep, sweet. As for lifts, and just my opinion, 35" just look right vs say 37''s I have the same fenders....I'd be interested to know how you got a clean look under the hood?, one being moving the air box and fuse housing?
Great video.. regarding wheel base. Any plans on stretching the rear or front? Would like to see that in one of your project. Thank you
We will stretch a Jeep on the channel one day, but not this one. Thanks for watching!
Good looking rig! What is the front bumper you have? Who makes it? Thanks.
The frame rust is promoted by the side holes letting everything into the frame and no drain holes to wash it out, plus road salt eats everything unless you keep it well washed and treated with some type of rust inhibitor. Most any vehicle has weak links, but the steering linkage was a bit weak for an off-road vehicle, but there are upgrades available. Loved the small size and nimbleness of my TJ, been parked a couple of years now waiting for some tender loving care, working on the wife's TJ currently. Built an off-road only jeep to avoid destroying my TJ, downside being it must be trailered everywhere.
What size lift and tires do you have on that? Looks great!
4” & 37’s!
Here in Australia I'm thankful that we don't have the same common frame rot issues, but the rest of the list is definitely relatable. One major downfall I think is the slip yoke on the non-Rubicon TJ's. Another would be the D35 in the back, not an issue here in Aus since all TJ's came with D44's, but still notable.
With the brakes, some people here adapt later model Ford Falcon discs and rotors to the TJ/XJ knuckles. A decent upgrade over stock.
Great video all round!
Thank you! And I didn’t know that all Tj’s in Australia came with the Dana 44. That’s cool!
@@_everydayoffroad_ yeah, I think we are pretty lucky. I just wish all our fronts were D44’s too. 😂
Great video. I have a stock 2002 TJ. I would like to see some tips for the 4.0 engine. I have an engine light no one want to tackle.
This is a well-built TJ. Very nice!!
Well organized and presented video.
6, the battery sensor underneath the battery. On a hot day it lowers the charging rate and causes your battery to die. I called interstate battery and checked. The temp management is not needed and was taken out of the later year designs. I replaced the sensor with a 14k ohm resistor and no problems for over a year.
Good info, didn’t know that. I completely removed mine during the high line fender install.
That's a super handy tip! I'll look into this with one of mine, it's a 1996 build. Cheers!
Hmmm our ZJs have it. No issues. You dont want your battery to charge too high when its hot out
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 the test engineer at interstate battery said the batteries now prefer 14V constant charge, and that there will be no issues caused by this. You are just tricking the system into thinking it is 80 degrees outside. In the CA heat it is an issue +100F days it causes the charge rate to be too low, draining the battery. You don’t notice because guys usually try swapping in bigger alternators because they don’t realize the issue is the sensor.
@@JDelta777 i have the facyory 150 amp alternator on my 98 Grand Cherokee.. notice no diff. But hey maybe ur right. Maybe youre not.
My older Jeep grand wagoneer doesnt have it. And charges constantly at 14.0-14.4v and its battery leaks from the caps a little i suspected its from overcharging it. As its the same battery and same amperage alterbatir 150a
I watched this to see what the down falls of the TJ was, mine is a 97 with 2.5 and near factory size tires. I finished the video and the only thing I found to be a problem was the frame. I used to have a 1942 Ford Military with the original engine and 600/16 tires and made an awful lot of guys hang their heads with big tires, big power etc. when I played around them while they were stuck putting on chains to go up a hill. Some may like what you advocate, and that is for you and what you do, many of us do not like to need a ladder to get in the rig, especially at 82. I did enjoy the video though.
There's a bug in the computer where it will run the RPM's high around 2k. You have to unplug the battery for 15 minutes and reconnect it. It will reset the computer and you will no longer have that issue. It is a common problem for anyone experiencing that.
I wish the 242 case has an option on the TJ's it be nice when you're dealing with constant transitions from loose/slippery surfaces to dry or patch roadways.
The 2.5 L engine mated to a 3 speed auto is the biggest downfall.
In regards to the breaks you are able to upgrade to WJ knuckles and brakes and run and lager rotor and a dual piston setup. There is not lot of options due to the dana 30 being such a weak axle.
Yeah but when you go to WJ knuckles you have quite a bit of modifications because you have to move the track bar then
Best way to address several of your negatives....do an axel swap. That also brings you better gearing and a much beefier setup overall. Those axels go really well in my '06 TJ that has been re-powered with a GM LT350 motor.
Issue #6 would be the _weakling Dana35c rear axle_ : anything above stock tire size and it'll grenade = mine broke at a stoplight after Jeep TJ hit a patch of new pavement paint for a crosswalk...it was raining heavily causing tire spin on the new water drenched new paint...rear aftermarket locker caused 30.8" tires to break the carrier after Jeep got traction again.
Not all t.j have a 35 in the rear. Mine has the 44 in the rear. I guess it was an option to buyers
I know this is an older video, but are those Ridgid 55009 Headlights? If they are have you done a video on them. I’m looking to put them on my TJ, but there are hardly any reviews on them. I’m replacing all of my light to Ridgid. Yes they are expensive, but they are indestructible, and extremely bright, and they have a lifetime warranty.
Are the roll bar. Oversized stock? I need to replace mine
Meant to say are the covers stock?
Was fortunate to find an immaculate frame on my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn 4.0L after passing on many '00-'02 TJ Saharas with rotted out frames.
Rear main seal is always an issue. Had to address that week one.
My heater core needs to be replaced yet again after just getting it replaced in late '19! 🤨
I love the short wheelbase, it just harkens back to the amazing MB, my '05 Rocky Mtn is amazing off-road, so nimble and very capable. I see all these 4 dr limos just getting hung up all the time. Not fun dealing with limo winching, it's like watching flies ***k. I can't stand the site of 4 dr limos, especially ones with hardtops, seeing these types cocooning its passengers. That's not a f n Jeep!
I got rid of that pathetic toothpick stock steering immediately, Chrysler absolutely sucks! Thank God they didn't replace the best engine ever put in any Jeep, the AMC 4.0
My last grip is the crows feet that are notorious especially on black TJ's like mine. Fortunately, my hood is mostly a hood vent now. Still, I have to paint this Rocky Mtn due to the lousy Chrysler paint.
Jeep
Born: 1941
Died: 2006
Used prices is a problem if you're a guy like me trying to find a quality TJ. Lots of junk out there for $13K+... very frustrating to get a quality one with no frame rust for under $16K,
Took me nearly a year but I found a 98 TJ with low miles and no rust for under $7K, new top, winch and tires with 5 speed, some small issues but it is 25 yrs. old, they are out there.
06 TJ - under 60000 miles - pretty solid for Ontario
I’d just posted a question on the other TJ-flaws- video and I think I read a comment here about the gauge clusters going on and off. So must be a known issue?
Thank you for this excellent educational video. I learned a lot!
what is the colour name this vehicle
?
Yes sir.... thats sure a fine looking JEEP!
I had to do extensive frame work on my tj. Its not fun doing it all on your back.
I live in texas and my jeep rusts by just looking at it without any mud.... its a jeep crappy metal problem, not a "northeast state" problem
My frame only broke on the back just before the rear wheels
Actually we have a local mechanic who only works only Jeeps. I have a TJ. Ask him what the best Jeep to own. He said a TJ with a 4.0 motor. Also mention to drill drain holes in frame.
At least with the TJ, you can make modifications to compensate for its shortcomings. The JK has so many sensors that can go faulty and absolutely destroy the engine, transmission, and gearbox. Not to mention the ridiculous amount of oil they burn through.
I miss my TJ...😢
Wish I could get a gen5 G26 with gray, battlefield green, or least FDE frame, want another but want something other than black. Like the Gray, wish I could swap all
Mine out for it but don’t feel like losing money selling Glocks and having to buy night sights just for color frame.
Flaw 3 isn't really a flaw. TJs will have the Dana 30 or Dana 44. 38-40" tires you need Dana 60 axle anyways, so not a flaw if you're rolling Dana 30
The TJ is one of the last cars ever built, of any brand, that can be fixed and still kept on the road in the next 30 years or more.
Great video. Thank you.
Rust is NOT a jeep problem!! Rust is EVERY car's problem.
Thanks for stating the obvious. This video was about the Jeep Wrangler TJ, which happens to be one of the more notorious frames for rust. Not all vehicles suffer from rust as severe as these.
Nonsense. It just your opinion unless you back it up with data.
False... I've had cars with almost 300k miles with no rust. My jeep rusts just by looking at it... and I live in Dallas Texas... I have to coat the frame yearly and still find spots. Its a rust bucket
He did back it up with the lack of frame draining data. I can attest to this on my LJ. Pay attention.
@@Dragon_Rider ...it is you who did not pay attention. His thesis is that rust is a jeep weakness. He did not acknowledge that it is for ANY iron based piece of equipment. So, rust is NOT exclusive to jeeps as he would like viewers to believe. He, and you, to it say as nicely as possible, are spreading disinformation.
JP Mag fit 35s on a TJ without a suspension lift pretty easily. How big does one REALLY need to go?
A Rubicon TJ or LJ is "Peak Jeep". The newer Jeeps just aren't as simple or reliable, and the older leaf-sprung Jeeps weren't as comfortable. An LJ could even tow just as much as a JKU.
Downfalls?
I’ve daily driven mine since I drove it off the lot in ‘98.
Florida #1 is not applicable.
2004 Rubi factory except warn front bumper, brush guard, winch. I push my jeep to its limit, never felt the need to jack it up all crazy. My jeep is all kinds of beat up. People with their rigs all jacked up never seem to have many trail battle scars. 😂
JP Mag fit 35s on a TJ without a suspension lift pretty easily.
A Rubicon TJ or LJ is "Peak Jeep". The newer Jeeps just aren't as simple or reliable, and the older leaf-sprung Jeeps weren't as comfortable. An LJ could even tow just as much as a JKU.
I cant see that working . I have 31s on mine and did some metal cloak arched fenders front and rear. And I have just a 2 in spacer lift. I know I can fit 33s easy but 35 might be pushing it without another 1 or 1.5 in lift
Whether or not you can see it working, JP Mag already DID it.
They used opened fenders/hood, adjustable rear control arms to move the rear axle slightly more aft, rims of a very specific width/offset, and a 1" BL to facilitate high-clearance t-case/fueltank skids.
Skinny 31s will fit a stock TJ/LJ.
i guess alot of this apllies to my yj too
you have to upgrade ALL Jeep steering if you put gigger tires on, so how is that a Major Flaw for the TJ's ?
Nothing wrong with the wheel base, it is what you do with it. I know people that make the wheel base shorter then stock
I've never heard of frame rot on the tj I've owned several lol
Have you been living under a rock? Lol. Any TJ from up north is likely to have rust
@chriscarpenter5139 It's a well known issue and there's rust on pretty much every single one you're interested in buying.
Takes a LONGGGGGG time to find a good condition one.
@@_everydayoffroad_I have a 2003 tj ,5 speed 4.0 with no rust at all. I keep it fluid filmed every other year. I love mine. Here from Maine. And no death wobble. Fixed that by putting on an adjustable castor on.
Bummer bc I really like them
TJ....TRUE JEEP
Midwest are the worst for rot. I live up north. No problems. I am going to drill some drainage.
You scared me a little bit. I just bought a 2001 and it’s bone stock.
It feels good living in California....zero rust 😂
Wish they would invent something to make jeeps out of that did not corrode.
Frame, frame, frame, frame & frame.
AVOID the @.4 dohc engine !
Most of these aren't flaws of the TJ. They're flaws of your modified Jeep in a poor climate.
But instead of complaining, here's a few real flaws of the TJ (when left as jeep designed it) that I have encountered one way or another in my three years of ownership.
The 00-06 4 liter cylinder heads can crack between the #3 and 4 cylinders (TUPY heads included), though its likelihood is a bit overexaggerated.
The gauge cluster contacts can be intermittent causing cluster to turn on and off randomly.
The cast iron engines water jacket is prone to rust formation and releasing sediment into the radiator core, requiring frequent back flushes.
The heater core hoses are above the rad cap, requiring a vacuum fill or a very large funnel to bring coolant level above hoses in order to burp the system properly.
The voltage regulator is not a part of the alternator like many Japanese cars, it is soldered to the ECU and the ECU is potted, making rework extremely difficult if it fails.
The oil pressure gauges on the later TJ's are not accurate and instead function like an idiot light. Always point at 40psi unless extremely low or high.
The fuse panels vary greatly by VIN, making troubleshooting electrical rather difficult.
The rear track bar bolt on the axle side is extremely close to the gas tank, and requires a T55 torx. Extremely difficult to remove, and should never be reused as it was fully threaded rather than having a shank for the bushing to ride on. The threads get wallowed out by the bushing over the years. Not sure why Jeep made that mistake. Pretty big oversight.
Overall they're great vehicles. I daily drive mine. 218,00 miles. Roughly 12,000 miles a year for the last three years.
Sounds like a piece of shit
Is the gauge cluster contacts an easy repair?
Fenders are a ticket waiting to happen 0:28
Ha. Good luck getting pulled over in Alabama for that. There are way worse things on the road here than a Jeep with 2” flares.
Im not a fan of wranglers. Any of em.. Too small. No utilitarian use. Everyone has one. Narrow wheel base and flip too easily. I prefer FSJs or ZJs myself
The frame rot on those though. If yours doesnt have it. Id consider drilling holes in the frame to help prevent it
All this coming from a person that has a Jeep that’s never ran in the bush. What a joke
Ethan stop making videos as if you know much of anything.. More wheeling and action content. Thankfully for yourself you finally replaced that terrible lift.
😂 this may be my favorite one yet. Thanks for the support!
@@_everydayoffroad_ you’re welcome for the support, hope you make a million. More wheeling less talk.
Your latest walk around of your TJ with your new lift explanation is lack severally. TJ wrangler fcbk group isn’t going to give you all the info you need. But good on you for finally replacing that terrible lift. You talking and giving bad information because of your lack of understanding won’t do you any favors.
Just wheel and keep learning.
@@_everydayoffroad_ on a other note, you’re still too high. Uptravel lowers center of gravity, gains stability, and is more capable.
Your factory rear sway is still of a hinderance. Far better than before though. Looks much better.