We have used the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
My first career was in electronics. (USAF Ret.) My second career was in an oil refinery. Thinking of electricity as a fluid made it so easy for me to convert my knowledge to fluid dynamics. Volts = pressure. Amps = volume. Wire gauge = pipe size. Thanks for making this so plain and simple seeming.
Thank you brother for making this available, I have viewed countless "how to" videos and none of them addresses this, and you keep it simple enough so as anyone should be able to get it!!! Kudos
wow. Such a novice here researching every video on installing solar....Your's explained better and simpler than any of them. I actually understand now. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
The way you worded things made this electrical talk seem much easier to digest for a noob like myself. Thank you very much for making this, I feel like I now understand solar 101.
Probably after many, the first video on the basics over an rv solar power system that didn't leave me feeling like a moron. Lol! Thanks and well done my good man.
I am new to being a full time RVr and I have modeled much of what I am doing based on this - just putting the solar panels up along with cellular directional antennas - end of the day coming from the tech industry I did for the last few decades anyone who whiteboards like this speaks my language - super stuff!
I just watched your video on solar and after months of listening to numerous videos on this subject and not understanding half of what I was watching, I wanted you to know how much I appreciated this video of yours! It was outstanding and helped simply things so much in my mind, I simply cannot thank you enough! Amp hours, amps, Volts and Watts, I could not understand which was the most important to understand and yet knowing all were important. Your explanation helped me greatly and also made me aware that I was having the same misconception you were and why my batteries could never reach 100% charge. Thank you, greatly!
I’ve been trying to watch and understand solar, how it works, how to set it up, I’ve learned more today, thanks for doing this video, I’ll be on the lookout for your others.
Outstanding breakdown of a complex topic! Your tire pressure analogy is Pure Genius. Well done, Sir! We are all the beneficiaries of your talents. Thank you!
Very good post. I have seen people with portable covers that muffle generators almost completely. One metal one that was made out of ac duct. Was not all that effective. Plywood with vents that worked pretty good. Bulky and heavy though. The quietest one I saw was made out of the foil covered insulation board and of course duct tape. The duct tape was used as a hinge and the whole thing folded up into a small stack of board. I don't know how durable that would be or how long it would last but it was quiet. They were in a tent. If you build a small duct to aim your muffler at the ground it will silence the whole thing a lot. I have the same generator but gas only. I have been meaning to make one for myself but haven't got around to it. I never use it where there are other people so it hasn't been a priority.
The sound that makes you really think you're breaking something. Priceless. There is such a sound, it seems, for any and all mechanical devices. hahha! An electric bike I have has a same, but different noise. Great video. Thanks!
Thumbs up for your video with these reservations. 1) You mentioned that you initially ran a modified sine-wave inverter only to learn your microwave didn't like it. You went to a pure sine-wave. My only concern is that it may be an inferior quality unit at the price you referenced. There is lots of garbage being peddled on Amazon!. 2) You referenced about having your controller initially too far away from your battery. Great point! You learned the hard way. That is also why many owners only get two years or so out of their leaded batteries. They are never fully charged, which is a killer. There is a third area that you likely will change someday unless you're an old-tech person. You said, "I still think these lead acid batteries are the way to go.....the upside as that they are still quite a bit cheaper....." There are several problems by what you said, and you blew what otherwise would have been a terrific video. First, a 6-volt golf cart (GC) battery weighs in around 80-90 pounds each. Let's go with 85 pounds. Then four of them weigh in around (4 x 85) 340 pounds. Two, 100 amp-hour lithium batteries weigh ~60 pounds. That extra weight on your travel trailer's (TT) tongue is costing you extra fuel to haul it and causes additional wear and tear on both your tow vehicle (TV) and TT. You are hauling an extra 280 pounds of battery lead. Ouch, my broken back! That's old tech, and thinking that's it's "cheaper" and "still the way to go" is like saying that your old TT incandescent light bulbs are "still the way to go." When you look at cost per charge cycle, lithium batteries blow old-tech lead, especially your flooded GC batteries, out of the water. It's not even a close comparison, not at 300 charge cycles verses 3,000 or more charge cycles. Your lead batteries in the long run are far more expensive! Yes, the initial upfront cost of LFP batteries is higher, but it's downhill from there. The irony is that you sunk big bucks into your TT and TV and then cheaped-out on your batteries thinking they are "cheaper." You likely initially went with your modified sine-wave inverter because it was "cheaper." You got it right with your pure sine-wave (unless it craps out on you) and keeping the controller as close as possible to your batteries. But then you contradict your progress by recommending an obsolete technology, leaded batteries. The tongue weight of your TT must be terrific. In addition to two, 30 pound propane tanks, your 300+ pounds of lead and at least 100 pounds+ from your generator adds hundreds of pounds of additional weight to your TT's tongue. Your generator rack adds yet more weight. If your TT has a DRY tongue weight of 500-700 pounds, you are easily pushing 1,000 pounds or more of tongue weight. What's your TV's payload? You mentioned your van, but we never saw what kind of van to is. If it's a half-ton van, then you are likely exceeding the payload capacity of your TV. If you are, you're likely making another potentially dangerous mistake, an overloaded TV. If it's a 3/4 ton van, your being over payload may not be as much of an issue. However, that doesn't negate the effects of a ridiculously heavy TT tongue weight. The bottom line is this. Suggesting to hang four, heavy GC batteries on your TT tongue is simply NOT a smart idea, especially since there are far superior solutions. There are many excellent UA-cam videos that make the case for using lithium iron phosphate batteries in your RV. You might want to check them out.
Thank You, if you are not a teacher you should be! You're Geek section was very understandable, I learned more from you than any of the 12-15 solar videos I"ve watched
Well done explanation! I love the analogy, makes it so much more visual. I am a programmer (systems analyst) and back in 1986, it was tough explaining to my father-in-law, a barber, what I did for a living. I came up with the analogy of a food recipe as the equivalent to a computer program, and then he got it. Funny.
Food items (flour, milk, eggs) is the data, equipment such as mixing bowls, spoons, mixer & measuring cups, oven are the hardware, the recipe is the program. The output is a cake. I worked with a Girl Scout troop on their technology badge, and I had them write a program on how to make a peanut butter & jelly sandwich. I provided a knife, a spoon, and a plate as well as a jar of peanut butter, jelly and bread in the wrapper. They wrote their "programs" and then I "executed" the programs. We were all entertained as I took everything literally, like a computer. One was "take the knife and dip out the peanut butter" but she neglected to tell me to open the jar. Bonk, bonk, bonk, I tapped the top of the jar with the knife. They all wanted their programs back to revise after getting an epiphany with that action. Today, kids get it, but back in the "old days" it was a new thing.
Thank you Nick. This was well presented and easy to fallow. I am a Skoolie and so the great experiment goes on. I started out with my first bus project 18 years ago and decided to go with a generator ( the Tim Taylor approach ie. mooor power) I picked up a slightly used Generac 6000 watt Generator. It was a return to Home Depot because the disappointed owner was not able to use it because the electrical grid did not colaps on Dec. 31st. 1999. Six generators down the road I now have 500 watts in solar pannels to keep my AGM sealed batteries charged. Often I can't get full recovery through the day after running an electric refrigerator, a c-pap machine and a heater fan through the night. Now I suppliment the charging system with a new generation quieter generator while maximizing the refrigerator cooling through the day. What I am saying is that I like your set up and your presentation and you may be doing something that you did not mention. That is that any time my generator is running to power higher draw appliances Ie your air conditioner it is also charging the batteries via a additional charger not the one built in to the generator. Also after 6 years of using 6 volt deepcycle vented batteries I have in the past year changed over to sealed Absorbed Glass Matt batteries for three reasons, one is the venting of acid and carosives( this is also a explosive risk) two is the weight and space, I can get more of my 12 volt hi cap. batteries in my minimal vented under floor compartments. Three although the batteries are about twice the price they take up about 75 percent of the space and come with a three year full replacement warrntie . I wll be looking for the programable charge controler You are using. I am also imprssed with Richard Owens suggestion and I will be looking at a revamp to the two or three bank series-parallel set up. I love you guys, even after 18 years I learn something every day. And the best is yet to come, never stop learning.Thank you and all of your +commenters.
I've watched so many solar videos... from Gone With The Wynn's years ago to Hebard's Travels just a few weeks ago. You're the first person to explain the importance of input voltage. Thank you so much.
4 days ago i was going to get some else to fit a solar kit for me, yesterday loads of vids i've watched 70% sure i can do it myself, this info just took me 90% so thanx very handy to know that info about solar charger, not seen that yet, not long i'll actually have and idea what i'm doing now lol, easy understood what you meant as was easy to follow thankyou
The first solar explanation that is accurate about DC. Subed and liked great job. You have a beautiful family spend as much time as you can with them it is worth it. I miss that age range with kids.
Great explanation! I’ve been looking for someone to dumb this down for me! The tire air press/compressor analogy made it crystal clear for me. Thank you!
I ran a similar bank for a while. With Flooded Lead Acid batteries it’d run 14.8 no matter the manufacturer, just not AGM. If it’s a tick high, it will just prevent sulfation and will boil some water. Also to the point, make sure you balance these batteries, run them up to 15.5v or so for a few hours. It will balance the cells in each battery as well . Lastly, if your charge controller is programmable, adjust the voltage so it will be 14.8 at the batteries with voltage drop. It might be 14.9 at the controller, no big deal. Keep them watered, you’ll be fine. Good luck, great vid.
Man.. my first lenguaje is Spanish and of course with some difficulties speak English. And I have to tell you that you made an awesome video that is so nice to clarify doubts. Muchas gracias por el vídeo
All about life events is learning period!!! I have learned many things about solar listening to you Pal, so thanks so very much and please keep up the great videos.
This is by far the BEST explanation I have heard, I’ve been looking through so many videos and I get pretty confused. Thank you so much for putting this video out. I subscribed for that reason. Keep up the awesome videos.
I enjoyed that...thank you! Recently purchased a motorhome, which we'd like to add solar to, so it's a work in progress, but a LOT to learn prior to making the $$ commitment. It's always nice to have the best of the best, thus that would mean to have over 1000W of solar, the best controller, six Lithium batteries etc., but it's all cost prohibitive for us, as we're not full timers, so keeping our home and all it's associated costs are all part of the mix. Lots to look in to, and decisions to be made! Thanks again, and I'll keep an eye on upcoming videos!
Start with a portion then. Like the controller and these 200w panels. These you can keep adding as long as you have a large enough controller or multiples. And large enough wire from junction box on roof to controller location. 200w panels cheaper than Renogy, made by Hightec sold on Ebay under Fred480v Made in the US with 25yr warranty $185/shipped www.ebay.com/itm/1-200-Watt-12-Volt-Battery-Charger-Solar-Panel-Off-Grid-RV-Boat-200-watt-total/283431535074?hash=item41fdd601e2:g:JdEAAOSwp7tadnMw:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!53704!US!-1&frcectupt=true Let me know if you have more questions. The Midnight Classic 150 is good for 96A or about 1800w to 12v bank. It's the best bang for the buck single large controller I have found. Everything is included without having to buy more expensive modules. Except for the Whizbang Jr(current monitor) Need the Whizbang and shunt for $80ish. The classic 150 plugs right into a wired computer network and gives remote monitor and control as well as internet monitoring if online. None others allow that that I'm aware of. The display is also remote mountable, just remove it and mount it somewhere.
More efficient, especially on cloudy days) to also put higher voltage (‘pressure’) into the MPPT controller. Check out max volts for charger. Maybe 2p2s (2 parallel sets of 2 panels in series), so twice the volts in. Two sets allows one set to be in shadow, yet the other set could still supply full 1/2 the total amps. Thanks - great video.
Thanks for the information, I know it sounds obvious but the distance from the charge controller to the battery is something that I had not considered, so big thumbs up
Good video, Nick. Answers a few questions for me. A suggestion for you concerning the generator - I have done this myself with a generator I use and it works: On the exhaust of the generator put a pipe that will come out past the housing of the generator (I used black steel pipe) and then put a 90 degree elbow and go straight up. Put it above the roof of camper so the noise is higher up. That’s it! Quiets it down a lot at ground level! A LOT!! If you’re worried about rain getting into the pipe, with your welding skills you can fabricate a flap that closes over the pipe when the genny is off. Two other notes: Brackets will be needed to help hold the pipe, especially when the wind is blowing, even though it’s a small pipe. I made mine so I can take the pipe off when I move the generator. Mine’s not mounted like yours. You might want to consider that as an option. As long as the pipe is a snug fit, you’re good. You can run a bolt through the pipe to clamp it in place as extra security too.
Mark, Yes! I have thought about this too! Are you using a Champion as well? I have been thinking how this would work, mainly how I would be able to mount it in a way that would keep it secure while going down the road. The champion doesn't have any 'flange' on the exhaust that sticks out, so I am trying to figure out how to get it to mount to the gen.
I salute you sir! You are the only one I have watched that made any sense as to what you should do to have a complete functional solar system. I am not sure I can convince the wife to do this but you have convinced me that you have a great package. My problem is I do not have the room to put the golf cart batteries in without steeling a storage space in my basement(motor home) and then reinforce this compartment to handle the weight. Only time will tell. Thanks
Thanks Dale! Mention to the wife that having solar is perfect for those Walmart nights, running fans and such in the coach to drown out the parking lot noise :)
Watched MANY videos on RV solar, and I have to say that yours is high on my list. Yes, you didn't cover every single aspect or possible iteration of solar - but what you did cover made a lot of sense. Very informative!
I rarely comment on these videos. My advice is don't listen to the internet trolls. This is a very good video that has touched on the practicality of a solar setup. The voltage and cabling advise along with the tire pressure analogy was excellent. Would have been more impressive if the generator had started without the pull start. Keep up the good work.
Wow! Probably one of the very best descriptions of solar I've seen. Have always been intimidated as to how everything is cabled and wired however you make it more simple as it should be. Appreciate the time you put into it and your handwriting is fine!
Just found your channel subbed. Who knew, first time I hear about the required voltage per battery?! EXCELLENT VIDEO. Gotta go to out and spec my batteries to check this out to check max charge requirement. Thank you.
Excellent advice, I am a newb with solar and wanted to do things right the first and not have to do them twice- using the information you have provided here I am confident that I have achieved that and am very pleased with my system performance thus far. I don't have all the biggest or highest tech glitzy (expensive) components but I don't need them either , what I do have is a 400w input 24v 1500 watt output system w/ 2000w generator that meets my needs, has beaucoup reserve and never has to pull the batteries down even half way with the manually selected charging values or suck up fuel all day at $3/gallon. Thank you very much, this video should be required viewing for anyone contemplating a mobile solar install. The one addition I made which I feel may be worthwhile is to add a simple 100w input 12V 400 watt output backup system switched in parallel to meet very basic needs in case of main system failure or maintenance down time. Probably a touch of overkill but I sometimes get far enough from civilization that a special trip (maybe two) for supplies could be a real waste of time and money.
I was just going to second what Richard is saying about series vs parallel. MPPT likes more voltage and without going into all the geeky details you will also get more efficiency out of your panels in series... especially if they are not getting equal sun. My panels are in different locations on the roof and I live in Canada so often get less sun. I am getting at least a little current in early morning and late in the day. At the end of the day it is pretty easy to change the wiring on your roof and get more charging. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
9:36 aww such a considerate guy. If your neighbors were like mine not only would point exhaust and noise toward them, but you'd have your black water run into their yard too.
One engineering principle is to avoid 100% load on any device. 75 to 80% duty cycle is better. Specifically referring to 1500 W inverter. 2000 would probably be better. The pure sine wave is the very best choice. If you check current ratings you will find that 10 gauge wire will handle 30 amps current. I use 8 gauge wire between my charge controller and the battery bank. The length is less than a foot of course and the measured voltage at the terminals is the same as indicated by the controller. The maximum current your system would ever produce would be 35 amps when the sun was absolutely perpendicular to your panels which never happens when they are mounted flat. BTW - the alternators on vehicles are set at 14.14.2 volts so most batteries are NEVER fully charged. You did an EXCELLENT job explaining this subject. (former rocket scientist here)
First time on your site; I subscribed and was very impressed as I learned alot. If anything I got out of the presentation was (1) length or from panels, (2) length of run to charge controller to battery, and (3) Voltage to get your battery to the level you need. I have been watching numerous vids to get smart because I want to boon-dock when I buy my RV; I just learned more on your presentation and it was in lament terms...Thank you very much and I will continue to follow.
Your explanation on solar was very clear & understandable for a novice like me. Eventually when times comes to install my solar, I'll be much better prepared. Thank You! PS: just subscribed.
I liked your system and well presented ! For the cost the best system and Renogy sales some great products. I didn't understand the DC wire that you ran from you solar panels to you charge controller ? Example " 19VDC@25amps distance of 20' would use a 4/0 AWG wire and the wire you used looked to be a lot smaller to me. Also your first PWM charge controller would burn off any power that it did not need so that was just a waste of loss power. I didn't understand that you did not state about dischange cut off power and programming your TRACER MPPT because thinking it should have be around 12.6vdc to be at 50% battery discharge life. One of the best solar videos I have enjoyed ! also you can build your own Lithium Iron Phosphate 12V 100AH battery for around $400.00 each. Thanks for your time and information very nice ! ! ! !
Thanks Jeff! Yes as Lithium batteries become more affordable I’ll definitely be looking into making the switch. As far as discharge cut off, I didn’t go into too much detail on the remaining settings as I kept those at defaults. Thanks for the comment and happy travels!!
Super good video, so I’m a new subscriber. Correct me if I’m wrong though. If you have four six volt 100 amp/hr batteries. You would connect them in both series and parallel to have a giant 12 volt 200 amp hour lead acid battery. Only half of that is usable, so what you have is 100 amp hours of usable energy. When you connect batteries in series the Volts double, but the amps remain the same. It all boils down to four six volt 100 amp hour batteries are equal to one Battleborn 100 amp hour battery. I like what you do and will enjoy watching your latest updates
Good point on battery charge voltages. I have my solar set up at 14.8 v as well. I believe you are incorrect in saying that 13.6 will "never" get you fully charged. It will but it will take days instead of hours. You are also losing some power by the small wire from your solar panels to your charge controller. You claim 1 volt loss, I'll bet it is more. Remember in charge controllers, voltage is converted into amps. At a minimum you should double your panel voltage by hooking 2 panels in series and then paralleling them with the other two panels that are also in series. That would give you 40+ volts to your controller. Or you could run larger wire. I ran #4 wire to my batteries.
Thanks CJ, and you are right, I shouldn't have said 'never', cause as you mention it could happen eventually. Since the video, I have set it up series/parallel for 40v coming down the line. The wire I am running is #6, so 40 over that wire works well. Thanks for your comment and I hope you have a good one! - Nick
Thanks for sharing! One of the best info video on sizing your Rv electrical inputs. I watch a lot of them and yours is on top, really easy to follow and understand.
Timing in life is everything. I am Just putting together our pre-around-Australia trip, 600 watt solar panel, NPPT controller, 3,000 watt inverter / charger and 600 AH Lithium's and found your video fantastic. I shall ensure that two panels are in series and two in parallel and that the leads shall be appropriate to your comments. There are now available some thick cables that are very flexible which I shall also investigate. My major problem is that my RV is currently set up using just shore power available at caravan parks and using a 15 amp to 10 amp appliance when hooking up to 240 volts at home. I want to offset the cost of the Lithiums (and future added ones) .This work I shall gladly hand out to a qualified Auto electrician. Top all this off and I have my trusty 3,500 watt inverter pure sine generator which has been in its' new plastic bag since new (two years ago), and unused; this I assure you shall be put to good use in our tropical weather which has a tendency to hover in the mid to high 30's centigrade (90's f) with plus 90 percent humidity. So, most parts purchased, now the fun of the build and I thank you for your very enjoyable video. Jon
I almost forgot. GREAT JOB on using a pure sine wave inverter. The "Walmart special" inverters are great for hand tools and lighting but they are modified sine wave and are not well suited for microwave ovens, refrigerators and sensitive electronics and are even a shock hazard when used with the old style transformerless hand tool battery chargers. For those who don't know the difference, when talking about a "pure sine wave" inverter, these mimic the power in voltage and frequency of your household power. Think of dropping a stone in a pond and the smooth waves that result. With the cheaper type of inverters, they are what's called modified sine wave. Think of a plowed farm field. Now think of flattening off the tops of the plow rows and coating them with concrete and then planting a row of pointed spikes in the flat tops of the rows. After it hardens, take a ride over them. Not so smooth. It is technically still an AC wave but it isn't smooth flowing. It is actually a square wave with spikes, (The modified part), on the tops and bottoms. This is what was causing the loud hum in your microwave. BTW, it will shorten the life of most electronics and induction AC motors due to added heating that isn't present in a pure sine wave environment. Over all, great job on the video!!!
How do you install an inverter in an already wired trailer? I have a 3000 pure sine inverter I purchased with an 80 watt solar panel, my new horse trailer was factory built out so where / how would I include my inverter? I have a 200 amp hour lithium battery, but would love to be able to use my 110 outlets without using my generator.
Where your 120 VAC input is, where you would normally plug it into an outside power source. Disconnect the wires from the input socket on the trailer and connect the output of the inverter to the input wires. DO NOT leave the outside plug connected. You CAN NOT have the inverter connected AND plug into shore power at the same time. If someone tries to do you a favor and unknowingly plugs it into shore power, you will burn out the inverter and possibly set it on fire. This can also be a shock hazard to a child that sticks their finger into the outside plug prongs. You don't mention having a storage battery or charge controller for your solar panel. These are a must. A "12 volt" solar panel, in full sunlight, depending on it's quality, can put out upwards of 19 volts. You will need a charge controller to bring it down to about 14 VDC to charge your battery bank. You WILL need a battery bank. At 80 watts, your panel only puts out 6.6 amps in full sunlight. A 3,000 watt inverter at full output will draw in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 amps. Connecting the inverter directly to the solar panel will only activate the high voltage safety cutout which, on inverters, is set at around 15 volts. Even if this would work, you would be lucky to get enough power to light a standard 100 watt light bulb. As I said before, you will need several "deep cycle" marine type batteries or large lithium batteries. Lithium batteries are much more costly, (as much as $1,000 each), and finicky to work with but if you read the pros and cons and take strict care of them, in the long run, they are a better investment. If you are just going to use them a couple of weekends a month in the warmer months and not run a regular vacuum cleaner, coffee pot and air conditioner but only a light, TV and a fan over night, you could get away with running to Walmart and getting 3 or 4 of their largest DEEP CYCLE MARINE batteries at about $120.00 each. NOT MARINE STARTING BATTERIES. There is a difference. If you are going to run a small 350 watt coffee pot, hot plate, TV, light and fan, this will just about do it for you. If you skip the hot plate and coffee pot, you could save yourself a chunk of change and return the 3,000 watt unit for a 750 watter. If I'm correct on this, I would still go for atleast 3 batteries. Large inverters need large battery cables to work properly. For your 3,000 watt unit, I would go minimum, 00, ("double ought") copper welding cable which is the size of your index finger. Keep these as short as possible so install your inverter close to the batteries. If you go for a 750 watt unit, don't go smaller than #6 copper. Aluminum wire is cheaper but for several reasons, it is not worth the money. You would have to go for even larger cable as it is less conductive, it is less flexible / more brittle and harder to snake through tight places. Now, lets talk about solar power. Your 80 watt panel is woefully undersized for what you want to do. Solar panels come in different voltages from 12 to 48 volts and even higher for larger arrays and from around 80 to 450 watts in the larger physical sizes. If you go for 4) 100 amp hour marine batteries, you will need 10 amps worth of solar panels for every 100 amp hours of battery capacity so 4 X 100 AH = 40 amps of needed solar power. One solar panel rated at 12 volts at 450 watts = 37.5 amps. Slightly undersized but doable if you shut your inverter off when you're not using it and don't park in the shade. You don't get something for nothing. In order for inverters to boost 12 VDC to 120 VAC, they draw a tremendous amount of current / amps. I don't know what you intend to run at 3,000 watts in a horse trailer but if, as I suspect, it's for show horses with a human apartment, you are going to need to invest more money. Now there is a way to energy independence that might be more practical for your application and also a bit more flexible. If you return your inverter and panel and buy a 2,200 watt Honda INVERTER GENERATOR. The upsides are, these things sip gas, are extremely quiet, you won't have to modify your trailer's electrical system and they are comparatively light to handle. Downside is the name brand products can be pricy. I have heard a lot of good about the 3,000 watt Predator inverter generators for campers but I don't have any personal experience with them. These can be had from Harbor Freight for about the same price as the smaller Honda unit. The 3,000 watt unit can run a small air conditioner too. If it were me, I would invest in a heavy, 25 foot long chain and a couple of good padlocks. You don't want your generator next to your trailer because of carbon monoxide and a 25 foot chain will keep your investment from walking away some night. The only maintenance to worry about on a generator is occasional oil change, spark plug change and using clean, fresh gas. With solar / battery, inverter setups, you have to park in the sun, be sure to not overdraw / damage your batteries and pull your batteries out in the winter so they don't freeze if you are in the north. I hope this helps. I want to wish you good luck in your endeavors and if you have more questions, feel free to write back.
@@mrs.c5471 WOW, I just wrote a whole dissertation On batteries, inverters and solar power without reading the rest of your post. This was kind of early in the morning for me and I apologize. Your information is in the first 2 or 3 paragraphs of my last post but you might want to read through the whole thing as there is information in there about your solar power that you will need to know like your 80 watt panel not being sufficient for what you're doing, the need for a solar charge controller and your battery being undersized if you plan on running an air conditioner. Good luck.
Excellent, great job. Im mechanically inclined but not electrically inclined. This has helped me understand solar better. I dont have any solar now. But plan to in the future.
Enjoyed the video , i have about the same set up on my camper . i may need to take your advice on the Charge controller set up & the sine wave converter to . thanks for showing all of your set up ! I think it will help a lot of people on that set up . Thanks again for the help !!
Real quick, thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching. Next, read what Richard wrote below. I second it. I have that same 4 panels, the same MPPT controller, the same generator. I have two 200AH Renogy AGM batteries. If you wired your panels in SERIES!! you will be getting over 50 volts at the panels but only about 8 amps, which is good. When your transmission line voltage is higher, your amps are less and the power is the same. This is why the power companies transfer electricity at 40,000 volts through those huge A frame power transmission lines. There is this thing called IR Drop. That is I=Amps x R=Resistance in OHMS and that will tell you the voltage drop through your feed line from the panels to the controller. If you wired your panels in series your Amps will only be around 8 then you will have much less voltage drop and much more efficiency, and you can use a much smaller wire from the panels to the controller. Not to mention, since you are not tracking the sun with your panels (neither am I) you will get a much longer charge period per day. As soon as the sun comes up and hitting your panels at a steep angle, your panels will start making power. All you need is about 15 volts at your controller to start a charging situation. After about 10 AM you should be getting full power until around 4PM but you will still be getting enough voltage to keep the controller happy until later in the afternoon when the sun begins going down. Next, If you haven't already, get a MICRO-AIR EASY START on your AC. When your roof top AC kicks in there is this HUGE current surge. An Easy Start will reduce that so you could actually run your roof top AC on a 2,200 watt inverter generator. Keep the vidios coming.
Thanks, for the video! Very well done! I would like to make a couple of suggestions of changes you might make to your system to improve its performance, if I may. You have an MPPT controller in your system, which is great! But, you're not getting maximum benefit out of it, and here's why: Right now, you're panels are all in parallel, which is providing you about 19V at your controller, which then reduces that voltage, while increasing current, to the desired 14.8V. But, here's the problem: Early in the day and late in the day, when the Sun is low on the horizon, your panels are still receiving light, but the panels are not providing a high enough voltage for you to get any useful charge current out of them! The same situation occurs when it is cloudy! Here's where your controller provides you a benefit that you wouldn't get with a PWM controller: Your MPPT controller can take up to 100V DC from your panels and will convert that voltage to the 14.8V, while increasing the current, so that you get the full power from your panels (well, 90-95% of it, anyway). So, what I would suggest is that you put your panels in a series-parallel configuration, rather than just a parallel configuration. The reason is simple - when you have cloud cover and at the beginning and end of the day, while your individual panels are not providing a charging voltage, having two pairs that are each in series WOULD provide you with a useful charging voltage! So, with this new configuration, you would be able to harvest more solar power from your system in less than ideal conditions that would otherwise not provide you with a useful charging voltage! Remember, if you have an insufficient charging voltage, you're getting NOTHING out of your panels! But, as soon as you put them in series, you all of a sudden have a useful charging voltage - so, take advantage of it! Of course, the resulting current under less than ideal conditions is going to be reduced. But, wouldn't you rather be getting, perhaps, 5 amps of charge current under less than ideal conditions than nothing? So, why wouldn't I suggest having all the panels in series? It's because, in a series arrangement, any partial shading on any of your panels will have a dramatic impact on the output of the entire array! In a parallel arrangement, shading on one panel only affects the output of that one panel - if it has a diode installed to prevent the other panels from back-feeding current into the shaded panel! So, in the suggested configuration, partial shading of one panel will dramatically affect two panels, rather than just one. But, that's better than partial shading affecting the entire array, isn't it? Of course, another benefit you get from the suggested configuration is that you half the losses on your wires coming from your panels to your charge controller! Finally, this is an EASY thing for you to implement in your system without spending any money! Well, you might want to spend a little money for the proper wiring harnesses to accomplish the connections, but that would be a trivial expense, in consideration of the benefits provided. Hope this helps!
Richard, thanks for this! It's something I hadn't considered at all as I was stuck in the 'do it parallel or do it series' mentality. I forgot that a nice blend of both would probably be the sweet spot. Thanks for the suggestion!
I suspect you understand what he's saying as it is consistent with the theme of your lesson when you bring the charge controller as close to your batteries as possible....great input! 😉
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Finally the nuts and bolts of this set up and you explained it very well. Very clear and easy to understand! BTW....your handwriting is fine! LOL
Thanks for info, know you enjoy the getting away lifestyle. You define your system to tweak the max, and figure out the best compromise of all systems to your advantage for optimum performance. Look forward to more...
Excellent Video! I was going to buy a portable 200 watt system with the inverter attached to the collectors but rethinking it since the distance to the batteries from the controller could be quite long to get the collectors into the sun depending on where we camp. I like to keep the trailer in the shade if possible. Did not realize an LP generator was available at that size! Much smarter way to go since we, like you aren't pulling with a pickup and can't put a gas can in the bed. FYI - we did an experiment at the University I retired from and found that putting solar collectors on the roof of the campus electric carts, doubled the life of the lead acid batteries. We believe it is because the batteries were always at least 1/2 charged. Curious to see if your batteries last longer than the expected 5 years. There didn't seem to be an effect on the lithium batteries. If it weren't for this, the lithium batteries might still be a better life cycle cost depending on use since they can take more extreme cycling and last longer. The battery weight is an issue not to be ignored as far as hitch weight and suspension issues if not distributed properly not to mention reduced fuel economy and handling stability when towing smaller trailers. Mine is 21 feet. Still worth serious consideration though. Lots to ponder. Thanks
I have watched many UA-cam s on RV hook-ups. You are by far the most comprehensive with your speech and diagrams. I will most definitely be back to watch whatever that I need help with. I however, I have a truck RV triple slide camper on my Duramax turbo 3500, with a Go Power( GP-PWM-25 Regulator), with a Onan RV GenSet generator. I believe I have a 100 watt solar panel on topside. I am interested in adding a small microwave. I have two 7 gallon LNG tanks that runs my winter heater, 3 burner stove,and refrigerator. With that GenSet-Generator, it just doesn't seem to be enough power for all this to run in boondocking/ off grid camping. Could a Firman 3200 / 4500 watts+ inverter, dual gas handle this load ?
Agree totally on comments about getting proper voltage to battery AND getting a programable charge controller. One thing you can do if you have voltage drop from charge controller to the battery is measure it... and then set the charge controller a little higher to compensate. For example, if there is a 0.5 (1/2 volt) drop - then set charge controller to 15.3v to get 14.8 at the battery. This is perfectly OK as long as you have proper volt meter to get accurate reading at battery.
I really like how you lock down your generator. It's also a good thing that you upgraded to a mppt controller so that you're charging all day and not just at peak hours when your panels are over 12v. I bought a MORNINGSTAR TS-MPPT-60 but I've found that they are over priced compared to what's on the market and they still don't make a bluetooth meter for your phone. I got it when there was no other real options.
you made this simple to understand. Just an idea, get a pipe (conduit maybe) and fit it to the gen exhaust and point it up like a diesel truck to expel the noise up.
We have used the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
My first career was in electronics. (USAF Ret.) My second career was in an oil refinery. Thinking of electricity as a fluid made it so easy for me to convert my knowledge to fluid dynamics. Volts = pressure. Amps = volume. Wire gauge = pipe size. Thanks for making this so plain and simple seeming.
Thank you brother for making this available, I have viewed countless "how to" videos and none of them addresses this, and you keep it simple enough so as anyone should be able to get it!!! Kudos
wow. Such a novice here researching every video on installing solar....Your's explained better and simpler than any of them. I actually understand now. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I understand solar more now due to explaining this in simple terms. I'll pass this vid around too THX!
Thanks!
The way you worded things made this electrical talk seem much easier to digest for a noob like myself. Thank you very much for making this, I feel like I now understand solar 101.
I know nothing about solar but I want to learn. You give a great explanation for a newbie
Probably after many, the first video on the basics over an rv solar power system that didn't leave me feeling like a moron. Lol! Thanks and well done my good man.
I am new to being a full time RVr and I have modeled much of what I am doing based on this - just putting the solar panels up along with cellular directional antennas - end of the day coming from the tech industry I did for the last few decades anyone who whiteboards like this speaks my language - super stuff!
Thanks Neils for the comment! Hope to see you on the road someday!
Forget all the negative comments. Just subbed because you do what others do not.....You EXPLAIN things in a very sensible way. Thank You.
CanesFan65 Agreed.
Agreed
Absolutely! Even a toymaker can understand solar when it is explained this way!
Best teacher ever. I understand the system, now...can almost think about running my own. Very well explained. Thank you.
Thank you all!
This was not "geeked" out but very clear explanations. Always good to learn from others' trial and error. Thanks.
I just watched your video on solar and after months of listening to numerous videos on this subject and not understanding half of what I was watching, I wanted you to know how much I appreciated this video of yours! It was outstanding and helped simply things so much in my mind, I simply cannot thank you enough! Amp hours, amps, Volts and Watts, I could not understand which was the most important to understand and yet knowing all were important. Your explanation helped me greatly and also made me aware that I was having the same misconception you were and why my batteries could never reach 100% charge. Thank you, greatly!
I’ve been trying to watch and understand solar, how it works, how to set it up, I’ve learned more today, thanks for doing this video, I’ll be on the lookout for your others.
Outstanding breakdown of a complex topic! Your tire pressure analogy is Pure Genius. Well done, Sir! We are all the beneficiaries of your talents. Thank you!
175 people disliked this video? How could anyone dislike this video. Wealth of information and presented very nicely.
Thanks Mike!
Very good post. I have seen people with portable covers that muffle generators almost completely. One metal one that was made out of ac duct. Was not all that effective. Plywood with vents that worked pretty good. Bulky and heavy though. The quietest one I saw was made out of the foil covered insulation board and of course duct tape. The duct tape was used as a hinge and the whole thing folded up into a small stack of board. I don't know how durable that would be or how long it would last but it was quiet. They were in a tent. If you build a small duct to aim your muffler at the ground it will silence the whole thing a lot. I have the same generator but gas only. I have been meaning to make one for myself but haven't got around to it. I never use it where there are other people so it hasn't been a priority.
The sound that makes you really think you're breaking something. Priceless. There is such a sound, it seems, for any and all mechanical devices. hahha! An electric bike I have has a same, but different noise. Great video. Thanks!
Thumbs up for your video with these reservations. 1) You mentioned that you initially ran a modified sine-wave inverter only to learn your microwave didn't like it. You went to a pure sine-wave. My only concern is that it may be an inferior quality unit at the price you referenced. There is lots of garbage being peddled on Amazon!. 2) You referenced about having your controller initially too far away from your battery. Great point! You learned the hard way. That is also why many owners only get two years or so out of their leaded batteries. They are never fully charged, which is a killer.
There is a third area that you likely will change someday unless you're an old-tech person. You said, "I still think these lead acid batteries are the way to go.....the upside as that they are still quite a bit cheaper....." There are several problems by what you said, and you blew what otherwise would have been a terrific video.
First, a 6-volt golf cart (GC) battery weighs in around 80-90 pounds each. Let's go with 85 pounds. Then four of them weigh in around (4 x 85) 340 pounds. Two, 100 amp-hour lithium batteries weigh ~60 pounds. That extra weight on your travel trailer's (TT) tongue is costing you extra fuel to haul it and causes additional wear and tear on both your tow vehicle (TV) and TT. You are hauling an extra 280 pounds of battery lead. Ouch, my broken back! That's old tech, and thinking that's it's "cheaper" and "still the way to go" is like saying that your old TT incandescent light bulbs are "still the way to go."
When you look at cost per charge cycle, lithium batteries blow old-tech lead, especially your flooded GC batteries, out of the water. It's not even a close comparison, not at 300 charge cycles verses 3,000 or more charge cycles. Your lead batteries in the long run are far more expensive! Yes, the initial upfront cost of LFP batteries is higher, but it's downhill from there. The irony is that you sunk big bucks into your TT and TV and then cheaped-out on your batteries thinking they are "cheaper." You likely initially went with your modified sine-wave inverter because it was "cheaper."
You got it right with your pure sine-wave (unless it craps out on you) and keeping the controller as close as possible to your batteries. But then you contradict your progress by recommending an obsolete technology, leaded batteries.
The tongue weight of your TT must be terrific. In addition to two, 30 pound propane tanks, your 300+ pounds of lead and at least 100 pounds+ from your generator adds hundreds of pounds of additional weight to your TT's tongue. Your generator rack adds yet more weight. If your TT has a DRY tongue weight of 500-700 pounds, you are easily pushing 1,000 pounds or more of tongue weight.
What's your TV's payload? You mentioned your van, but we never saw what kind of van to is. If it's a half-ton van, then you are likely exceeding the payload capacity of your TV. If you are, you're likely making another potentially dangerous mistake, an overloaded TV. If it's a 3/4 ton van, your being over payload may not be as much of an issue. However, that doesn't negate the effects of a ridiculously heavy TT tongue weight.
The bottom line is this. Suggesting to hang four, heavy GC batteries on your TT tongue is simply NOT a smart idea, especially since there are far superior solutions.
There are many excellent UA-cam videos that make the case for using lithium iron phosphate batteries in your RV. You might want to check them out.
build a sound baffle box around your generator ,very thorough explanation and coherent, well done
Thank You, if you are not a teacher you should be! You're Geek section was very understandable, I learned more from you than any of the 12-15 solar videos I"ve watched
Well done explanation! I love the analogy, makes it so much more visual. I am a programmer (systems analyst) and back in 1986, it was tough explaining to my father-in-law, a barber, what I did for a living. I came up with the analogy of a food recipe as the equivalent to a computer program, and then he got it. Funny.
Kim, glad to have you with us! I'm a programmer myself, so I would love to hear your recipe :)
Food items (flour, milk, eggs) is the data, equipment such as mixing bowls, spoons, mixer & measuring cups, oven are the hardware, the recipe is the program. The output is a cake. I worked with a Girl Scout troop on their technology badge, and I had them write a program on how to make a peanut butter & jelly sandwich. I provided a knife, a spoon, and a plate as well as a jar of peanut butter, jelly and bread in the wrapper. They wrote their "programs" and then I "executed" the programs. We were all entertained as I took everything literally, like a computer. One was "take the knife and dip out the peanut butter" but she neglected to tell me to open the jar. Bonk, bonk, bonk, I tapped the top of the jar with the knife. They all wanted their programs back to revise after getting an epiphany with that action. Today, kids get it, but back in the "old days" it was a new thing.
Awesome video. Watched a thousand videos by now. Lol.
Still a lot to learn.
I loved your bare minimum, real world approach with explanation.
Ty
Always good to learn from others' trial and error. Thanks.
Thank you Nick. This was well presented and easy to fallow. I am a Skoolie and so the great experiment goes on. I started out with my first bus project 18 years ago and decided to go with a generator ( the Tim Taylor approach ie. mooor power) I picked up a slightly used Generac 6000 watt Generator. It was a return to Home Depot because the disappointed owner was not able to use it because the electrical grid did not colaps on Dec. 31st. 1999. Six generators down the road I now have 500 watts in solar pannels to keep my AGM sealed batteries charged. Often I can't get full recovery through the day after running an electric refrigerator, a c-pap machine and a heater fan through the night. Now I suppliment the charging system with a new generation quieter generator while maximizing the refrigerator cooling through the day. What I am saying is that I like your set up and your presentation and you may be doing something that you did not mention. That is that any time my generator is running to power higher draw appliances Ie your air conditioner it is also charging the batteries via a additional charger not the one built in to the generator. Also after 6 years of using 6 volt deepcycle vented batteries I have in the past year changed over to sealed Absorbed Glass Matt batteries for three reasons, one is the venting of acid and carosives( this is also a explosive risk) two is the weight and space, I can get more of my 12 volt hi cap. batteries in my minimal vented under floor compartments. Three although the batteries are about twice the price they take up about 75 percent of the space and come with a three year full replacement warrntie . I wll be looking for the programable charge controler You are using. I am also imprssed with Richard Owens suggestion and I will be looking at a revamp to the two or three bank series-parallel set up. I love you guys, even after 18 years I learn something every day. And the best is yet to come, never stop learning.Thank you and all of your +commenters.
I've watched so many solar videos... from Gone With The Wynn's years ago to Hebard's Travels just a few weeks ago. You're the first person to explain the importance of input voltage. Thank you so much.
Thanks: you cleared up a lot of things that were left unstated. I’ll have a chance of doing it better the first time now.
4 days ago i was going to get some else to fit a solar kit for me, yesterday loads of vids i've watched 70% sure i can do it myself, this info just took me 90% so thanx very handy to know that info about solar charger, not seen that yet, not long i'll actually have and idea what i'm doing now lol, easy understood what you meant as was easy to follow thankyou
Great info; Boondocking near Kingman,az at Hummingbird Ranch ,Moe our Host showed this very thing ,Thanks.
The first solar explanation that is accurate about DC. Subed and liked great job. You have a beautiful family spend as much time as you can with them it is worth it. I miss that age range with kids.
Great explanation! I’ve been looking for someone to dumb this down for me! The tire air press/compressor analogy made it crystal clear for me. Thank you!
I ran a similar bank for a while. With Flooded Lead Acid batteries it’d run 14.8 no matter the manufacturer, just not AGM. If it’s a tick high, it will just prevent sulfation and will boil some water. Also to the point, make sure you balance these batteries, run them up to 15.5v or so for a few hours. It will balance the cells in each battery as well . Lastly, if your charge controller is programmable, adjust the voltage so it will be 14.8 at the batteries with voltage drop. It might be 14.9 at the controller, no big deal. Keep them watered, you’ll be fine. Good luck, great vid.
Man.. my first lenguaje is Spanish and of course with some difficulties speak English. And I have to tell you that you made an awesome video that is so nice to clarify doubts. Muchas gracias por el vídeo
Thanks so much!
All about life events is learning period!!! I have learned many things about solar listening to you Pal, so thanks so very much and please keep up the great videos.
This is by far the BEST explanation I have heard, I’ve been looking through so many videos and I get pretty confused. Thank you so much for putting this video out. I subscribed for that reason. Keep up the awesome videos.
I have basically the same set up, only a bit smaller because it’s on a truck camper and space is limited. Thanks for sharing.
I enjoyed that...thank you! Recently purchased a motorhome, which we'd like to add solar to, so it's a work in progress, but a LOT to learn prior to making the $$ commitment. It's always nice to have the best of the best, thus that would mean to have over 1000W of solar, the best controller, six Lithium batteries etc., but it's all cost prohibitive for us, as we're not full timers, so keeping our home and all it's associated costs are all part of the mix. Lots to look in to, and decisions to be made! Thanks again, and I'll keep an eye on upcoming videos!
Start with a portion then. Like the controller and these 200w panels. These you can keep adding as long as you have a large enough controller or multiples. And large enough wire from junction box on roof to controller location. 200w panels cheaper than Renogy, made by Hightec sold on Ebay under Fred480v Made in the US with 25yr warranty $185/shipped
www.ebay.com/itm/1-200-Watt-12-Volt-Battery-Charger-Solar-Panel-Off-Grid-RV-Boat-200-watt-total/283431535074?hash=item41fdd601e2:g:JdEAAOSwp7tadnMw:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!53704!US!-1&frcectupt=true Let me know if you have more questions. The Midnight Classic 150 is good for 96A or about 1800w to 12v bank. It's the best bang for the buck single large controller I have found. Everything is included without having to buy more expensive modules. Except for the Whizbang Jr(current monitor) Need the Whizbang and shunt for $80ish. The classic 150 plugs right into a wired computer network and gives remote monitor and control as well as internet monitoring if online. None others allow that that I'm aware of. The display is also remote mountable, just remove it and mount it somewhere.
More efficient, especially on cloudy days) to also put higher voltage (‘pressure’) into the MPPT controller. Check out max volts for charger. Maybe 2p2s (2 parallel sets of 2 panels in series), so twice the volts in. Two sets allows one set to be in shadow, yet the other set could still supply full 1/2 the total amps. Thanks - great video.
Thanks for the real world experience of these systems.
Thanks for the information, I know it sounds obvious but the distance from the charge controller to the battery is something that I had not considered, so big thumbs up
Good video, Nick. Answers a few questions for me.
A suggestion for you concerning the generator - I have done this myself with a generator I use and it works:
On the exhaust of the generator put a pipe that will come out past the housing of the generator (I used black steel pipe) and then put a 90 degree elbow and go straight up. Put it above the roof of camper so the noise is higher up.
That’s it! Quiets it down a lot at ground level! A LOT!!
If you’re worried about rain getting into the pipe, with your welding skills you can fabricate a flap that closes over the pipe when the genny is off.
Two other notes:
Brackets will be needed to help hold the pipe, especially when the wind is blowing, even though it’s a small pipe.
I made mine so I can take the pipe off when I move the generator. Mine’s not mounted like yours. You might want to consider that as an option. As long as the pipe is a snug fit, you’re good. You can run a bolt through the pipe to clamp it in place as extra security too.
Mark, Yes! I have thought about this too! Are you using a Champion as well? I have been thinking how this would work, mainly how I would be able to mount it in a way that would keep it secure while going down the road. The champion doesn't have any 'flange' on the exhaust that sticks out, so I am trying to figure out how to get it to mount to the gen.
I salute you sir! You are the only one I have watched that made any sense as to what you should do to have a complete functional solar system. I am not sure I can convince the wife to do this but you have convinced me that you have a great package. My problem is I do not have the room to put the golf cart batteries in without steeling a storage space in my basement(motor home) and then reinforce this compartment to handle the weight. Only time will tell. Thanks
Thanks Dale! Mention to the wife that having solar is perfect for those Walmart nights, running fans and such in the coach to drown out the parking lot noise :)
Dale, that would be a good reason to go Lithium... - plus, you don't have issues when the trailer is parked up for long periods..
Watched MANY videos on RV solar, and I have to say that yours is high on my list. Yes, you didn't cover every single aspect or possible iteration of solar - but what you did cover made a lot of sense. Very informative!
Great video. Thanks for explaining things in terms that are easy to understand.
I rarely comment on these videos. My advice is don't listen to the internet trolls. This is a very good video that has touched on the practicality of a solar setup. The voltage and cabling advise along with the tire pressure analogy was excellent. Would have been more impressive if the generator had started without the pull start. Keep up the good work.
Wow! Probably one of the very best descriptions of solar I've seen. Have always been intimidated as to how everything is cabled and wired however you make it more simple as it should be. Appreciate the time you put into it and your handwriting is fine!
Just found your channel subbed. Who knew, first time I hear about the required voltage per battery?! EXCELLENT VIDEO. Gotta go to out and spec my batteries to check this out to check max charge requirement. Thank you.
Lovely explanations. You made things nice and simple. I just got lost with some of your Acronyms.
Excellent advice, I am a newb with solar and wanted to do things right the first and not have to do them twice- using the information you have provided here I am confident that I have achieved that and am very pleased with my system performance thus far. I don't have all the biggest or highest tech glitzy (expensive) components but I don't need them either , what I do have is a 400w input 24v 1500 watt output system w/ 2000w generator that meets my needs, has beaucoup reserve and never has to pull the batteries down even half way with the manually selected charging values or suck up fuel all day at $3/gallon. Thank you very much, this video should be required viewing for anyone contemplating a mobile solar install.
The one addition I made which I feel may be worthwhile is to add a simple 100w input 12V 400 watt output backup system switched in parallel to meet very basic needs in case of main system failure or maintenance down time. Probably a touch of overkill but I sometimes get far enough from civilization that a special trip (maybe two) for supplies could be a real waste of time and money.
I’ve watched several similar videos, but this one really clicked with me. Great explanation
Thanks so much!! You explained solar better than anyone!!
Another awesome video! Thanks
You’re welcome Mark! Thanks for dropping by and commenting!
Thank you your a legend I live in England, as your probably aware we don't have that much sun....I will be using your setup.....
Thanks Chris! Glad you liked it!
Nice solar power explained so anyone can understand it! Thank you
I was just going to second what Richard is saying about series vs parallel. MPPT likes more voltage and without going into all the geeky details you will also get more efficiency out of your panels in series... especially if they are not getting equal sun. My panels are in different locations on the roof and I live in Canada so often get less sun. I am getting at least a little current in early morning and late in the day.
At the end of the day it is pretty easy to change the wiring on your roof and get more charging. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
9:36 aww such a considerate guy. If your neighbors were like mine not only would point exhaust and noise toward them, but you'd have your black water run into their yard too.
One engineering principle is to avoid 100% load on any device. 75 to 80% duty cycle is better. Specifically referring to 1500 W inverter. 2000 would probably be better. The pure sine wave is the very best choice.
If you check current ratings you will find that 10 gauge wire will handle 30 amps current. I use 8 gauge wire between my charge controller and the battery bank. The length is less than a foot of course and the measured voltage at the terminals is the same as indicated by the controller. The maximum current your system would ever produce would be 35 amps when the sun was absolutely perpendicular to your panels which never happens when they are mounted flat.
BTW - the alternators on vehicles are set at 14.14.2 volts so most batteries are NEVER fully charged.
You did an EXCELLENT job explaining this subject.
(former rocket scientist here)
As a mechanic I've seen volts as high as 14.5 on some cars.
First time on your site; I subscribed and was very impressed as I learned alot. If anything I got out of the presentation was (1) length or from panels, (2) length of run to charge controller to battery, and (3) Voltage to get your battery to the level you need. I have been watching numerous vids to get smart because I want to boon-dock when I buy my RV; I just learned more on your presentation and it was in lament terms...Thank you very much and I will continue to follow.
Thanks Roy! let me know when you get your rig all set and going. Have fun!
Your explanation on solar was very clear & understandable for a novice like me. Eventually when times comes to install my solar, I'll be much better prepared. Thank You! PS: just subscribed.
I liked your system and well presented ! For the cost the best system and Renogy sales some great products. I didn't understand the DC wire that you ran from you solar panels to you charge controller ? Example " 19VDC@25amps distance of 20' would use a 4/0 AWG wire and the wire you used looked to be a lot smaller to me. Also your first PWM charge controller would burn off any power that it did not need so that was just a waste of loss power. I didn't understand that you did not state about dischange cut off power and programming your TRACER MPPT because thinking it should have be around 12.6vdc to be at 50% battery discharge life. One of the best solar videos I have enjoyed ! also you can build your own Lithium Iron Phosphate 12V 100AH battery for around $400.00 each. Thanks for your time and information very nice ! ! ! !
Thanks Jeff! Yes as Lithium batteries become more affordable I’ll definitely be looking into making the switch. As far as discharge cut off, I didn’t go into too much detail on the remaining settings as I kept those at defaults. Thanks for the comment and happy travels!!
Super good video, so I’m a new subscriber. Correct me if I’m wrong though. If you have four six volt 100 amp/hr batteries. You would connect them in both series and parallel to have a giant 12 volt 200 amp hour lead acid battery. Only half of that is usable, so what you have is 100 amp hours of usable energy. When you connect batteries in series the Volts double, but the amps remain the same. It all boils down to four six volt 100 amp hour batteries are equal to one Battleborn 100 amp hour battery.
I like what you do and will enjoy watching your latest updates
Good point on battery charge voltages. I have my solar set up at 14.8 v as well. I believe you are incorrect in saying that 13.6 will "never" get you fully charged. It will but it will take days instead of hours. You are also losing some power by the small wire from your solar panels to your charge controller. You claim 1 volt loss, I'll bet it is more. Remember in charge controllers, voltage is converted into amps. At a minimum you should double your panel voltage by hooking 2 panels in series and then paralleling them with the other two panels that are also in series. That would give you 40+ volts to your controller. Or you could run larger wire. I ran #4 wire to my batteries.
Thanks CJ, and you are right, I shouldn't have said 'never', cause as you mention it could happen eventually. Since the video, I have set it up series/parallel for 40v coming down the line. The wire I am running is #6, so 40 over that wire works well. Thanks for your comment and I hope you have a good one! - Nick
If I understand battery chemistry correctly, No 13.6v CAN'T EVER get your batteries to 100%
Thank you!
You answered a lot of questions I had on all the subjects you covered.
Best Wishes to You and Your Family
Thanks and same to you!
Thanks for sharing! One of the best info video on sizing your Rv electrical inputs. I watch a lot of them and yours is on top, really easy to follow and understand.
Oh my goodness I actually understand what you are saying!! Thank you.. I’m going to watch some more
I did subscribe
You are a natural teacher. Thank you so much! Now can you come please wire up my RV? I'll pay you!!
I really appreciate how you explained all this. Great Job!!!!
Timing in life is everything. I am Just putting together our pre-around-Australia trip, 600 watt solar panel, NPPT controller, 3,000 watt inverter / charger and 600 AH Lithium's and found your video fantastic. I shall ensure that two panels are in series and two in parallel and that the leads shall be appropriate to your comments. There are now available some thick cables that are very flexible which I shall also investigate. My major problem is that my RV is currently set up using just shore power available at caravan parks and using a 15 amp to 10 amp appliance when hooking up to 240 volts at home. I want to offset the cost of the Lithiums (and future added ones) .This work I shall gladly hand out to a qualified Auto electrician. Top all this off and I have my trusty 3,500 watt inverter pure sine generator which has been in its' new plastic bag since new (two years ago), and unused; this I assure you shall be put to good use in our tropical weather which has a tendency to hover in the mid to high 30's centigrade (90's f) with plus 90 percent humidity. So, most parts purchased, now the fun of the build and I thank you for your very enjoyable video. Jon
I work in solar for a module manufacturer. Your video is great...I was going to say use a lower gauge wire but then you addressed that.👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you. Your explanation is the only one that I've understood. I can now install my solar and understand the principles. Thank's again.
I almost forgot. GREAT JOB on using a pure sine wave inverter. The "Walmart special" inverters are great for hand tools and lighting but they are modified sine wave and are not well suited for microwave ovens, refrigerators and sensitive electronics and are even a shock hazard when used with the old style transformerless hand tool battery chargers.
For those who don't know the difference, when talking about a "pure sine wave" inverter, these mimic the power in voltage and frequency of your household power. Think of dropping a stone in a pond and the smooth waves that result. With the cheaper type of inverters, they are what's called modified sine wave. Think of a plowed farm field. Now think of flattening off the tops of the plow rows and coating them with concrete and then planting a row of pointed spikes in the flat tops of the rows. After it hardens, take a ride over them. Not so smooth. It is technically still an AC wave but it isn't smooth flowing. It is actually a square wave with spikes, (The modified part), on the tops and bottoms. This is what was causing the loud hum in your microwave. BTW, it will shorten the life of most electronics and induction AC motors due to added heating that isn't present in a pure sine wave environment. Over all, great job on the video!!!
How do you install an inverter in an already wired trailer? I have a 3000 pure sine inverter I purchased with an 80 watt solar panel, my new horse trailer was factory built out so where / how would I include my inverter? I have a 200 amp hour lithium battery, but would love to be able to use my 110 outlets without using my generator.
Where your 120 VAC input is, where you would normally plug it into an outside power source. Disconnect the wires from the input socket on the trailer and connect the output of the inverter to the input wires.
DO NOT leave the outside plug connected. You CAN NOT have the inverter connected AND plug into shore power at the same time. If someone tries to do you a favor and unknowingly plugs it into shore power, you will burn out the inverter and possibly set it on fire. This can also be a shock hazard to a child that sticks their finger into the outside plug prongs.
You don't mention having a storage battery or charge controller for your solar panel. These are a must. A "12 volt" solar panel, in full sunlight, depending on it's quality, can put out upwards of 19 volts. You will need a charge controller to bring it down to about 14 VDC to charge your battery bank. You WILL need a battery bank.
At 80 watts, your panel only puts out 6.6 amps in full sunlight. A 3,000 watt inverter at full output will draw in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 amps.
Connecting the inverter directly to the solar panel will only activate the high voltage safety cutout which, on inverters, is set at around 15 volts. Even if this would work, you would be lucky to get enough power to light a standard 100 watt light bulb.
As I said before, you will need several "deep cycle" marine type batteries or large lithium batteries. Lithium batteries are much more costly, (as much as $1,000 each), and finicky to work with but if you read the pros and cons and take strict care of them, in the long run, they are a better investment.
If you are just going to use them a couple of weekends a month in the warmer months and not run a regular vacuum cleaner, coffee pot and air conditioner but only a light, TV and a fan over night, you could get away with running to Walmart and getting 3 or 4 of their largest DEEP CYCLE MARINE batteries at about $120.00 each. NOT MARINE STARTING BATTERIES. There is a difference.
If you are going to run a small 350 watt coffee pot, hot plate, TV, light and fan, this will just about do it for you. If you skip the hot plate and coffee pot, you could save yourself a chunk of change and return the 3,000 watt unit for a 750 watter. If I'm correct on this, I would still go for atleast 3 batteries.
Large inverters need large battery cables to work properly. For your 3,000 watt unit, I would go minimum, 00, ("double ought") copper welding cable which is the size of your index finger. Keep these as short as possible so install your inverter close to the batteries. If you go for a 750 watt unit, don't go smaller than #6 copper. Aluminum wire is cheaper but for several reasons, it is not worth the money. You would have to go for even larger cable as it is less conductive, it is less flexible / more brittle and harder to snake through tight places.
Now, lets talk about solar power. Your 80 watt panel is woefully undersized for what you want to do. Solar panels come in different voltages from 12 to 48 volts and even higher for larger arrays and from around 80 to 450 watts in the larger physical sizes. If you go for 4) 100 amp hour marine batteries, you will need 10 amps worth of solar panels for every 100 amp hours of battery capacity so 4 X 100 AH = 40 amps of needed solar power. One solar panel rated at 12 volts at 450 watts = 37.5 amps. Slightly undersized but doable if you shut your inverter off when you're not using it and don't park in the shade.
You don't get something for nothing. In order for inverters to boost 12 VDC to 120 VAC, they draw a tremendous amount of current / amps. I don't know what you intend to run at 3,000 watts in a horse trailer but if, as I suspect, it's for show horses with a human apartment, you are going to need to invest more money.
Now there is a way to energy independence that might be more practical for your application and also a bit more flexible.
If you return your inverter and panel and buy a 2,200 watt Honda INVERTER GENERATOR. The upsides are, these things sip gas, are extremely quiet, you won't have to modify your trailer's electrical system and they are comparatively light to handle. Downside is the name brand products can be pricy.
I have heard a lot of good about the 3,000 watt Predator inverter generators for campers but I don't have any personal experience with them. These can be had from Harbor Freight for about the same price as the smaller Honda unit. The 3,000 watt unit can run a small air conditioner too. If it were me, I would invest in a heavy, 25 foot long chain and a couple of good padlocks. You don't want your generator next to your trailer because of carbon monoxide and a 25 foot chain will keep your investment from walking away some night.
The only maintenance to worry about on a generator is occasional oil change, spark plug change and using clean, fresh gas.
With solar / battery, inverter setups, you have to park in the sun, be sure to not overdraw / damage your batteries and pull your batteries out in the winter so they don't freeze if you are in the north.
I hope this helps. I want to wish you good luck in your endeavors and if you have more questions, feel free to write back.
@@mrs.c5471 WOW, I just wrote a whole dissertation On batteries, inverters and solar power without reading the rest of your post. This was kind of early in the morning for me and I apologize. Your information is in the first 2 or 3 paragraphs of my last post but you might want to read through the whole thing as there is information in there about your solar power that you will need to know like your 80 watt panel not being sufficient for what you're doing, the need for a solar charge controller and your battery being undersized if you plan on running an air conditioner. Good luck.
An excellent easy to understand video and you look great.
Thank You!
Just found u. Best compilation setup I’ve watched. Thanks for keeping it simple. Couldn’tfind ur Amazon references.
Excellent, great job. Im mechanically inclined but not electrically inclined. This has helped me understand solar better. I dont have any solar now. But plan to in the future.
Edward Cullen - glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!
A very "Unique" method.Thank you for the "Great Tutelage."Easy to understand and very thorough!!christopher
Enjoyed the video , i have about the same set up on my camper . i may need to take your advice on the Charge controller set up & the sine wave converter to . thanks for showing all of your set up ! I think it will help a lot of people on that set up . Thanks again for the help !!
Real quick, thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching.
Next, read what Richard wrote below. I second it. I have that same 4 panels, the same MPPT controller, the same generator. I have two 200AH Renogy AGM batteries. If you wired your panels in SERIES!! you will be getting over 50 volts at the panels but only about 8 amps, which is good. When your transmission line voltage is higher, your amps are less and the power is the same. This is why the power companies transfer electricity at 40,000 volts through those huge A frame power transmission lines. There is this thing called IR Drop. That is I=Amps x R=Resistance in OHMS and that will tell you the voltage drop through your feed line from the panels to the controller. If you wired your panels in series your Amps will only be around 8 then you will have much less voltage drop and much more efficiency, and you can use a much smaller wire from the panels to the controller. Not to mention, since you are not tracking the sun with your panels (neither am I) you will get a much longer charge period per day. As soon as the sun comes up and hitting your panels at a steep angle, your panels will start making power. All you need is about 15 volts at your controller to start a charging situation. After about 10 AM you should be getting full power until around 4PM but you will still be getting enough voltage to keep the controller happy until later in the afternoon when the sun begins going down.
Next, If you haven't already, get a MICRO-AIR EASY START on your AC. When your roof top AC kicks in there is this HUGE current surge. An Easy Start will reduce that so you could actually run your roof top AC on a 2,200 watt inverter generator.
Keep the vidios coming.
thank you.this is the first time i finally understand this stuff.keep up the great job
Thanks, for the video! Very well done!
I would like to make a couple of suggestions of changes you might make to your system to improve its performance, if I may.
You have an MPPT controller in your system, which is great! But, you're not getting maximum benefit out of it, and here's why:
Right now, you're panels are all in parallel, which is providing you about 19V at your controller, which then reduces that voltage, while increasing current, to the desired 14.8V. But, here's the problem: Early in the day and late in the day, when the Sun is low on the horizon, your panels are still receiving light, but the panels are not providing a high enough voltage for you to get any useful charge current out of them! The same situation occurs when it is cloudy!
Here's where your controller provides you a benefit that you wouldn't get with a PWM controller: Your MPPT controller can take up to 100V DC from your panels and will convert that voltage to the 14.8V, while increasing the current, so that you get the full power from your panels (well, 90-95% of it, anyway). So, what I would suggest is that you put your panels in a series-parallel configuration, rather than just a parallel configuration. The reason is simple - when you have cloud cover and at the beginning and end of the day, while your individual panels are not providing a charging voltage, having two pairs that are each in series WOULD provide you with a useful charging voltage! So, with this new configuration, you would be able to harvest more solar power from your system in less than ideal conditions that would otherwise not provide you with a useful charging voltage!
Remember, if you have an insufficient charging voltage, you're getting NOTHING out of your panels! But, as soon as you put them in series, you all of a sudden have a useful charging voltage - so, take advantage of it! Of course, the resulting current under less than ideal conditions is going to be reduced. But, wouldn't you rather be getting, perhaps, 5 amps of charge current under less than ideal conditions than nothing?
So, why wouldn't I suggest having all the panels in series? It's because, in a series arrangement, any partial shading on any of your panels will have a dramatic impact on the output of the entire array! In a parallel arrangement, shading on one panel only affects the output of that one panel - if it has a diode installed to prevent the other panels from back-feeding current into the shaded panel! So, in the suggested configuration, partial shading of one panel will dramatically affect two panels, rather than just one. But, that's better than partial shading affecting the entire array, isn't it?
Of course, another benefit you get from the suggested configuration is that you half the losses on your wires coming from your panels to your charge controller!
Finally, this is an EASY thing for you to implement in your system without spending any money! Well, you might want to spend a little money for the proper wiring harnesses to accomplish the connections, but that would be a trivial expense, in consideration of the benefits provided.
Hope this helps!
Richard, thanks for this! It's something I hadn't considered at all as I was stuck in the 'do it parallel or do it series' mentality. I forgot that a nice blend of both would probably be the sweet spot.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I suspect you understand what he's saying as it is consistent with the theme of your lesson when you bring the charge controller as close to your batteries as possible....great input! 😉
Thanks for sharing this @Richard Owens !
We Can Explore It Let is know if you try it and how it worked for you. Thanks again!
Ditto the inverter, and use super thick leads from batt to inv.
Well done! Certainly will go back and check the charge voltage going in my Trojans.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Finally the nuts and bolts of this set up and you explained it very well. Very clear and easy to understand! BTW....your handwriting is fine! LOL
LOL, thanks!
Thanks for info, know you enjoy the getting away lifestyle. You define your system to tweak the max, and figure out the best compromise of all systems to your advantage for optimum performance. Look forward to more...
Excellent Video! I was going to buy a portable 200 watt system with the inverter attached to the collectors but rethinking it since the distance to the batteries from the controller could be quite long to get the collectors into the sun depending on where we camp. I like to keep the trailer in the shade if possible. Did not realize an LP generator was available at that size! Much smarter way to go since we, like you aren't pulling with a pickup and can't put a gas can in the bed. FYI - we did an experiment at the University I retired from and found that putting solar collectors on the roof of the campus electric carts, doubled the life of the lead acid batteries. We believe it is because the batteries were always at least 1/2 charged. Curious to see if your batteries last longer than the expected 5 years. There didn't seem to be an effect on the lithium batteries. If it weren't for this, the lithium batteries might still be a better life cycle cost depending on use since they can take more extreme cycling and last longer. The battery weight is an issue not to be ignored as far as hitch weight and suspension issues if not distributed properly not to mention reduced fuel economy and handling stability when towing smaller trailers. Mine is 21 feet. Still worth serious consideration though. Lots to ponder. Thanks
From MicroAir you can buy the 364 and run your AC with small inverter generator like the Honda 2000W very economical and silent..!
Great video mate!
I loved this video. I'm the type of person that needs the geek stuff to understand.
I have watched many UA-cam s on RV hook-ups. You are by far the most comprehensive with your speech and diagrams. I will most definitely be back to watch whatever that I need help with. I however, I have a truck RV triple slide camper on my Duramax turbo 3500, with a Go Power( GP-PWM-25 Regulator), with a Onan RV GenSet generator. I believe I have a 100 watt solar panel on topside. I am interested in adding a small microwave. I have two 7 gallon LNG tanks that runs my winter heater, 3 burner stove,and refrigerator. With that GenSet-Generator, it just doesn't seem to be enough power for all this to run in boondocking/ off grid camping. Could a Firman 3200 / 4500 watts+ inverter, dual gas handle this load ?
Good explanation of the charging voltage.......MPPT controllers are the way to go....
That is a great resource of a video, I saved it to a playlist. Thanks.
Thanks for the info. It was easy for me to understand and very informative! Now I know what I need for our RV we are going to get. Happy trails!
Great information. I just keep learning about solar. 👍
Agree totally on comments about getting proper voltage to battery AND getting a programable charge controller. One thing you can do if you have voltage drop from charge controller to the battery is measure it... and then set the charge controller a little higher to compensate. For example, if there is a 0.5 (1/2 volt) drop - then set charge controller to 15.3v to get 14.8 at the battery. This is perfectly OK as long as you have proper volt meter to get accurate reading at battery.
Thanks a bunch!
This is some very important info right there if you want to get the Most out of your system!
Great video! Your experience is valuable to the rest of us!
Keep up the good work!
Good job. I've watched quite a few generator/charger videos. This will help on my build. Thanks
Excellent presentation, thanks.
Thank you!
I really like how you lock down your generator. It's also a good thing that you upgraded to a mppt controller so that you're charging all day and not just at peak hours when your panels are over 12v. I bought a MORNINGSTAR TS-MPPT-60 but I've found that they are over priced compared to what's on the market and they still don't make a bluetooth meter for your phone. I got it when there was no other real options.
you made this simple to understand. Just an idea, get a pipe (conduit maybe) and fit it to the gen exhaust and point it up like a diesel truck to expel the noise up.
If in crowded campgrounds yes definitely. People have died from CO on generators cuz they had a window open near one
W O W I can’t thank you enough, the tire analogy so helpful in understanding what load is.
I really enjoyed your video. Thanks for showing and doing things that helped me learn what I need to do.
Great video and explanation! Super links to your daily use gear and the solar/generator setup. Thanks.