FROGLUBE - WHAT NOT TO DO
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- This video is a discussion on how not to use Froglube and how to properly use it on your pistol or rifle or firearm in general. Many of us have experience with gun lube and are used to using it a certain way. This product is different.
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I've used Froglube for years.I shot literally thousands of round thru all my Glocks.ive alway lubed my Glocks with Froglube.I have had zero issues.
+ryan bundick well i'm not taking anything away from frog lube i use it myself and occasionally lick it off my fingers during applications but a glock fired completely bone dry will rarely malfunction..after all it's a GLOCK...frog lube just helps it along and keeps it minty fresh
+tasteegold7772 - I love Froglube and it works very well, but you shouldn't lick it off your finger. I did that once and it gave me EXPLOSIVE diarrhea.
+MrChuckwagon55 well i have a cast iron stomach so..lol
This guys dount no what's is talking about were he says not to use it is were u should use it rails etc he's nuts froglube extreme is for all parts metal of any gun ha he's a joke
I borrowed a hairdryer from my girlfriend, but my wife wanted to know where it came from!
LOL
I went to use my girlfriends hairdryer and it was missing.
🤣
😂😂
Nice!
I tried Froglube about 4 months ago, bought the kit at my local gun store. I applied it according to the video and the paste worked great, the CLP I will never put on one of my guns again. Here in Florida when we plan to store our guns in the safe for awhile we lube them up pretty good to avoid the rust due to the high humidity. I pulled out my AR and two of my Sig pistols for a trip to the range today, it had been a few months since I cleaned them so I decided to add a couple drops of lube before shooting them. I pulled the slide on my SP 2022 and immediately noticed the barrel and spring were sticky. The interior of my slide was completely gummed up like I had lubed them with pancake syrup or something. My P239 and my AR bolt were the same. Thanks to Froglube instead of spending my day off at the range, I spent the whole day soaking this crap out of my guns in cleaning solvent. Never again!
You did not use the product correctly. When you "lubed them up pretty good", this was a mistake. You don't do this with Frog Lube! Had you just wiped off the excess after the initial treatment, you would have been fine. This is an operator error, not a product error.
Sounds like you used way too much. There shouldn't be enough of Froglube applied to even be turned into a "syrup." The excess should all be wiped off just like Froglube says in the instructions.
I for a few years used to be a Frog Lube proponent, I was all about it. I de greased my AR-15 (yes I know the gun in this video is using a Glock) and applied Frog Lube on my AR after I heated it up, then wiped it off, clean. No drips or anything. THEN the FL solvent came out and I even used that on the same AR, re applied the FL just as instructed. Then I put my gun in it's case and it hasn't been shot in a few months so I go back home last weekend and decided "lets go shoot my guns finally" (at least the ones I don't have with me anyways. So I shoot about 200 rounds with my AR with no malfunctions at all. I go home break it down, and I grab the bolt carrier group and the parts that slide on the receiver were gummy, the "raceway" or whatever it's called that is where the BCG slides back and fourth from was all gooey feeling and gummy also, as was basically everything I had the frog lube on. My gun is stored in Antioch CA, it's 40 miles east of Oakland. Never gets below 40%'s and get's into the 90's so the temperature should've had nothing to do with this. And again when I first, and then secondly de greased and applied to FL I heated everything up, got all the other shit off their before applying it, didn't use too much because just like in their "instructional" video it show to apply it then literally wipe it off. I did ALL THAT and still my gun was a gunky. I'm surprised it even shot. And I own a decent amount of guns and used it on everything cuz I was sold on the stuff. Not anymore after what just happened, I've tried out many other clp's out there before FL, probably about 6-8 so I don't know why I tried the stuff out, probably cuz most clp's are cheap enough to buy and see how it works. I don't want anyone thinking I'm trying to sell another clp by writing this so I'm not gonna say what I'm going to try out next but it looks somewhat new and some respectable people are using it so hopefully it'l work. Cuz basically with whatever you're using to lube your AR15 with you should be able to crack it open, take your BCG out and everything will of course be dirty as shit but should still be all slippery right? And mine probably was, in fact I'm sure it was while I was shooting it and it was heated up. But once I got home and felt how gummy it was I was extremely surprised and let down...
Bob Dobalina TL;DR
Yes, it turns into a sticky gooey mess no matter how you apply it. They say, youre using too much. Id agree if you could see it, but when you apply it, heat it and wipe it off, how can they say that.... I only use it in the shop to drill things or degrease. Never on my firearms.
It's kind of inaccurate to say "run it dry", because using the treatment method you describe leaves the oil in the microscopic cracks and pores in the metal. It's the same principle as seasoning an iron skillet. As the parts heat up during firing, some of that oil in those pores and cracks will come out and spread over surfaces. Some of that will be trapped again when the metal cools.
I treat all my firearms with Frog Lube. I re-apply heat treatment once a year, and do routine cleanings periodically and after firing. I use it on my AR, and it can do wonders for a Mosin Nagant. I even do the treatment on my pocket knives, multi-tools, and tomahawks. It makes a difference you can /feel/.
This guy is indeed correct . I was informed by froglube of this same processes. I didnt think of using a hair dryer to heat it up. They just said to shoot it but it does need to be used when hot . They said run dry in dust and cold. They said run wet a few times and your good after it seasons the metal. Good video!!
DO NOT DO THIS
You need to put the longer pin in your back strap. It comes in the case with the piece that holds the backstraps. I don't know as there's anything in the manual that tells you to but I guess they left that out.
I don't care what gun it is or what lube your using. NEVER shoot a gun dry. Lube the contact points, ALWAYS. It's a machine. Metal on metal = death. Season the gun, treat the gun, but for the love of God DO lube the contact points.
Good thing there's no liability with UA-cam videos. Following these instructions will result in many firearm failures.
Also regular bearing grease and standard gun cleaners/degreasers work just fine too. Their made for high temp, high velocity parts.
It's also worth mentioning that failures happen more often with over lubrication than having none at all.
+Wahinies True. I clean my guns with BreakFree, wipe/clean off excess and apply one drop/dab of either CLP or grease to all bearing surfaces.
No issues, no failures in 22 years.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
BreakFree CLP and a good lithium or wheel bearing grease is all you need for 95% of guns and gun cleaning.
Bruce, I do not use it but the idea is Froglube creates a physial barrier that melts on the microscopic hot spots when the parts move. So it is technically correct to be dry in normal conditions.
+Bruce “Corelogik” Jenner Froglube is a metal conditioner that is activated by heat. Yes you can leave the lube on the contact points but that is unnecessary unless you are in the process of switching from one lube to froglube. Once you're on froglube, you don't have to do much of anything other than use it, clean it, heat it, and reapply.
If you notice this guy's G19 has basically 0 wear on it.
+MrHellotherehowareu I should also mention that if you stored your weapon for a long time, you might want to reapply the lube before hitting the range. When I do the froglube in a few days before shooting, it works flawlessly. But if I store it for an extended time, I find that froglube doesn't stay on the metal and you get problems.
I just get a kick out of people that comment on Froglube® and have never used it.
Well I have and it's awesome! A little regular oil on contact points is recommend. Very little.
Good for making rain drops roll off your satellite dish as well!
Your welcome.
+Trent Bradberry I get a kick out of people who think they know more than the other guy and recommend using FL incorrectly.
Even a leftover residue of petroleum oil can interact negatively with FL.
+DonziGT230 the little bit of oil im referring is after you've treated the weapon.
You do it you're way and I'll do it mine. BTW mine shoots every time.
Arghhhhh I just spent 3 hours doing 6 guns/rifles that I barley shoot and are safe queens and I guess I applied it all wrong,now I gotta go back and clean them all up..I video the guy was saying be generous and put it every where
jason larose For safe queens extra WILL NOT HURT AT ALL. It will protect against rust. Actually extra should not hurt any unless your in snow filled area. Just saying if you heat and then apply no need to have a lot byt it will not hurt.
Tac Dad i just watched a video identical to yours, where some fellow said he put it too much, some oozed into the FP channel and the extractor, which stuck and jammed the gun. So he had to clean it all off and start over.
Froglube makes a solvent. I wouldn't use a degreaser as most of them have petroleum distillates in them and will leave residues. FrogLube's Solvent is for stripping that nasty junk off. I agree with most everything else. Get it hot, hit it with the solvent, scrub, wipe clean, get hot again apply CLP in any form and wipe away excess, boom your good togo and just add some CLP to the high friction areas. I love it and wont use anything else.
I use Simple Green HD pro. This is the purple stuff. Safe for aluminum and completely biodegradable. Have read a bunch of people actually using it as a gun cleaner. I wouldn't do that! Use it once as a degreaser and froglube from there. The Simplegreen HD does not leave a residue but I rinse it anyway, blow it dry with compressed air and heat it up with the blowdryer to dry it completely. Have used FrogLube on my Beretta's, Sig's, HK's, Rugers - and love this stuff!!! Use as directed and works great. Of course there will always be critics who say I've used Hoppes forever so I'm not going to try this crap!! To each his own, enjoy the dark ages..... The SimpleGreen Green stuff is too harsh!! Don't use that for firearms.
I have to try the frog lube solvent
If you only have the paste can you just rub a smidgen of paste on it and lightly coat everything like you said at the last part of your video?
Thank very much for your time ,i just got a colt gold cup and i like the blueing and not even going to put it on a holster ,do you think it will do any discoloration (i got the series 70)
Here's what not to do! But all the different oils, lubes, protectants etc sold as "GUN" products. Just get a quart of Mobil 1 or other high grade Fully synthetic Motor Oil and a large jar of Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner Solvent. That's it. Done.
Because motor oil is a carcinogen, and we don't want cancer.
why the hell would you recommend people to use the lube on the polymer??
boxerJunkie he says this is what you do not do
you're supposed to put it on everything
EVERYWHERE INTENSIFIES
I have tried Frog on many weapons and all of them gummed up so I've switched back to my previous lubes.
+Randy She Yes, it even gummed up on my BP guns that had never seen petroleum lube. I had to hammer my BP revolver apart after it sat a few months. The frog solvent didn't seem to be doing anything for it, the stuff acts like water with maybe a little soap in it. Fortunately olive oil, my usual BP oil, dissolved the frog goo pretty well. It's been a couple months since going back to olive oil and it's still slick and smooth working.
+DonziGT230 Old mentality of gun cleaning. This is why so many soldiers tell people not to clean there weapons........ if you do it wrong with ANY cleaner it can get you killed. Not because it dose not need it.
+weasel101 And if they don't clean and lube their ARs it can get them killed like it did in Vietnam when they were told the guns needed no maintenance.
I don't recall any other gun lube or cleaner that has stopped any of my guns from working. Regular oil can be over or under applied with no major problems hot or cold.
I fell in love with Frog when I first used it, actions did feel super smooth. I used the liquid which seems to be less often used, maybe that has something to do with my problems with it because others still love Frog. I actually ordered the paste and got liquid instead but since Frog says they both do the exact same thing I used it.
And the rust... I've never had a firearm rust until I used froglube for 3 months of storage. My friends all had the same issue.
This stuff was taking down by all the gun shop I go to in MN, this crap james your gun.
.... are there really that many people having problems with the simple standard C,L and P procedures?!?!
I just coat everything and then go shoot it. Come home while it down really good and done.
Simple green, followed by WD-40. Then finish with a little chew. Lol😂🤣😉🤔
I never use any oil on my 1911's no need for it, just keep them clean. Oil is a no no.
+Chief119 Using froglube will make your 1911 slide move with less friction. It worked well on my friends Kimber 1911
+Tac Dad ok, I might give it a try. Thanks
I don't have time for all that. ballistol it is XD
I have switched to ballistol for most applications
Why does this have to be so involved and complicated? How is this more beneficial than using any other gun oil or lube? I have used a bunch of different gun oils over the years with no difference in gun performance...zero! No one has yet convinced me that these expensive and labor-intensive lubes are worth the trouble.
The best way to use FrogLube is to leave it on the shelf, and buy some quality CLP.
0:10 wheres the safety check. you need to check that weapon to ensure it is not loaded. what is wrong with you?!
HA HA, yes enough though it was empty before I took it apart and there was no magazine or ammo in the room, I still should have checked the chamber. Good practice to do so.
Tac Dad just a joke. some people take things too seriously. you can never be too safe when it comes to weapons or firearms but i mean the freggin gun was in pieces lol i think the danger was maybe you slipping on some extra gun oil lol. good stuff tho. thx for the reply.
micky mcfarts
I get it, no problem
Tac Dad rock on tac daddyo
micky mcfarts hey man there's been a rash of accidents with field stripped, removed gun barrels firing all on their own even disasembled from the gun! Put a bullet within 50 feet of the barrel and WHAM! Another kid gets his hair parted by a near miss! At least - thats what the media said! If i cant believe them then WHO?!
Clean the gun with Hoppes. Lube the gun with oil. This has worked for over 110 years with no problems. It's not rocket science. (Way too many people having problems out there with frog lube in hot and cold conditions…)
Anyone who is having "problem" is not applying the product correctly. I run it in all weather extremes with zero issues. I just have to shake my head every time someone starts bad mouthing the product because they did not take to time to apply the product correctly.
I have been using FrogLube for several years. I follow the same seasoning process initially, but I do it 3 times before I shoot my gun. I DO NOT RUN ANY GUN DRY. I use the FrogLube CLP as if it were oil applying it with a syringe to not over lubricate.I shoot Glocks and 1911s. Glocks like to run dry. Running a 1911 dry is not recommended. Your advice for a Glock may work, but for steel on steel it is formula for jams and unnecessary wear.
lol this guy thinks he knows something .. some people's children. pleas if you watch this video do not do this .. !
Guys I've been using frog lube paste for years and I apply a decent amount, completely fine never jams. Idk about this dude but I'm not firing my pistol dry lol
I tried Froglube without the heating directions on various ARs, Glocks, SIGs, and many others, even range rental guns. After hundreds of thousands of rounds in all temperatures, the stuff works wonderfully. While I do prefer a grease on trigger components, Froglube works on it's own.
damn,I smeared it all over my 19,26,42 & shield already!!
3:49 i dont know why, but i burst out laughing
2:27 -2:50
Omg....talk about high maintenance...fuck frog lube...
This is why I threw my bottle of froglube in the trash.
+Brian Holloway i'm excited, im going to bake one gun, put the other under the broiler, and third one on the grill, 4th one hit with a flame thrower. that frog lube will really absorb then!!!
+Brian Holloway should've sent it to me..its tasty and lubes like a champ
a microscopic amount on any weapon is always all that you need
Why on Earth would you remove the copper grease that Glock ships in their pistols? That firearm is meant to take out of the case and go to war. That copper grease isn't cosmoline or shipping oil, its lube AND a damned good one at that.
you can buy the same lube at any auto parts store. permatex copper antiseize. awesome stuff!!!
Great. You are now running your gun dry. CLUELESS!!!
He didn't mean bone dry. He just meant to wipe off the excessive Froglube with a rag.
AND it tastes damn good too..i take a couple globs and munch on it while re applying to my pistol
lol, i just cleaned all my guns at the beginning of the week doing all the things I was not supposed to do, FML, ha ha
IF you use simple green don't just wipe it off. Simple green needs to be rinsed real well so that all is gone. If residue remains the oil or frog lube is not going to adhere correctly. Any parts you use simple green on you want to make sure you are able to rinse them off well. Don't use it on aluminum because it can eat that. Over all it is a good degreaser in general. I won't be one who says don't use it on a firearm (except aluminum like an AR) just if you do use it rinse it REAL well and make sure it's dry before you lube. If you don't apply your lube of choice the metal WILL rust. After all you just used simple green to strip any oils it had on it so what do you think will happen if you don't apply a lube????Thanks for the video though the place I bought my first fire arm from said he loves Frog Lube and said the trick about heating it up first also. The info is great I just wanted to correct the part about just wiping off the simple green and applying frog lube.
It's much simpler to use hoppe's #9 or ballistol
Not hopps it's just for gun power cleaning u need a lube on all guns do not do as he states wrong. U lube all were he doubt
Frog lube sucks. It gummed up my glock to the point where it would not fire. Switched over to slip2000 and I'm never going back. Frog lube is the most hyped up bullshit ever.
That’s fine for a 400$ gun that doesn’t even need to be lubed at all. But I wouldn’t run a quality gun like a 1911 dry….
Personally, I am going back to Ballistol when I use all of my Frog Lube. Both produce the seasoning feeling on the metal but the Frog Lube is a pain. My Frog Lube works like a champ but I will still be going back to Ballistol. Especially after reading the Ballistol story.
no. as it pertains to all Glocks, please read the owner's manual. the glock comes with gold break in grease along the slide which is recommended to stay on the slide for proper break in. a certified Glock armorer told me to run mine until most of the break in grease had wore off, then clean, then relube. this could be a couple hundred rounds. Do not wipe the gold grease out before break in.
Jason Murphy technically copper but yeah
i'm guessing everyone gave it the thumbs down for the simple green junk. you might as well use clorox bleach....
Like grease in very cold weather, can have issues in cold temperatures. I use either Strike Hold or Weapon Shield, had no problems with either and don't need to apply heat to the surface.
Hmmm…..I remember not to long ago Militec-1 oil had you heat your gun up and do all this crap and it supposedly fused to your gun and made it super slick. I don't here much from them anymore. This sounds like another gimmick to me.
You supposed to keep the factory glock grease on until it goes away on its own it's good shit
I agree with you however I've noticed when I apply it I heat up after it's been applied I suppose it's same difference ether way but all and all good video
I Use that shit like Frank's Red Hot, I put that Shit On Everything
FrogLube: over rated, over priced, over complicated snake oil.
Instead of snatching a woman's hair dryer try recommending a heat gun
+Ryan Snow Hey, it at least gives you an excuse to go to the cute girl next door and ask to borrow her hair dryer.
+Tac Dad that's how you get labeled a stalker
+Ryan Snow Asking to borrow a hair dryer labels you a stalker! What cynical times we live in.
+Ryan Snow - Your 100% right, but most people don't have heat guns but do have hair dryers. Heat guns are expensive, plus hair dryers are more than sufficient to heat up the metal enough to properly apply the Froglube. Using a hair dryer isn't mandatory to apply Froglube, just makes it a little faster & easier. You can apply it and then shoot your gun at the range, or just leave it out in direct sunlight. It will still work even if you don't melt it.
thank you for showing the proper way to use this. I do it the same way, dont the comments they have no idea how this stuff works.
Then u throw away the shitty glock and buy a sig!!
Simple green is not for use with aluminum. It reacts and can ruin the anodize. Simple green extreme is safe.
Good tips on using Frog Lube but.........why so anal about a eat off clean Glock? They are extremely reliable under the nastiest, grimey conditions. Just 3 drops of oil on the internals as the manual says and shoot it for a year. It's not like your prized $4,000 1911 or safe queen pistol.
+Mickey Meador Yes, this is overkill for a gun that can withstand quite a bit of abuse, but its like when you get a new car. It can go through a lot of abuse, but you try to keep it clean, washed, change the oil, etc because its your baby. Always use good well inflated tires cause our life depends on it. Same with a firearm, your life may depend on it so keep the odds forever in for favor.
I still prefer the smell of nasty chemicals and regular old gun oil. That smell man I just love it. But hot damn with regular lube you sure lube the fuck out a Glock. Then I'd still have reserves about putting frog lube inside my firing pin chamber. But frog lube is interesting stuff on how it works. Then I look at the price..... lol
Keith R your apprehensions are correct and anybody who knows would concur, DO NOT put frog lube in the firing pin channel. No FL on the firing pin or any FP parts. Factory says leave it dry, they ought to know. Don't know this idea where people think FL is some sort of miracle in a bottle. Seen too many miracle snake oils come and go, how is this different. If Frog lube were so great why isnt the US mil using it? How bout seal team 6, think this is what they put on their HK 416's?? I already have years worth of the other type lube stuff-i can do without it for now, or forever. Anything with all these wild claims for it, makes me very skeptical.
this video could have been 30 seconds long. but good info.
F.L. is good stuff, but you have to use it like you said wipe it dry. i do not put any in the striker channel cause you will get light primer strikes with the brass shavings. on revolvers use around forcing cone n cylinder to be able to wipe off the carbon. you say run it dry but as you know it really is not dry. people i think don't understand this cause you will still be lubed with that film it leaves. WIPE IT DRY.
Lol ... I been using Valvoline motor oil 🤣🤣 I guess I'm behind the times.
Sometimes something is better than nothing, I've always sprayed my firearms down with a penetrating oil.
I mean to be completely honest I mostly just spray brake cleaner on them, wipe/pass a cloth bore snake through the barrel, and spray them back down with seafoam deep creep before I wipe again. Folks like to say it can cause build up in the oils, but I've never experienced it with anything but Fluid Film, that stuff did gum up on me the few times I used it.
So don't put lubrication where metal contacts metal? friction areas? odd....
Nice, "How to" thanks for doing this and sharing...
not to do? DON'T BUY....
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) "
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should be liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake, it'll gum-up later)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide & barrel will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, slide rails on grip/body, ) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
Definitely stay away from simple green! Horrible idea on a gun! Use brake clean or gun scrubber, then LUBE the crap up dont shoot it completely dry tho dumb dumb leave some on contact points
Just for some clarity and not in any form an attack against your video...I just spoke with FrogLube. Your video made me question the process I was doing. As per the associate said, the object of your cleaning with FrogLube is to remove and reapply. You remove all the dirty FrogLube with carbon on it. Wipe it dry and then re apply whatever your gun manufacturer deems safe. I have a Glock. After I have wiped it all down dry I apply a small bit of FrogLube CLP to the barrel, the slide insert and friction points near the trigger insides as well. They DO NOT RECOMMEND just drying it all and reassembling. Yes, if you've done the treatment it does work inside out once it heats up, but they still said to reapply the amount deemed appropriate by your manufacturer.
All these DO NOT admonishments despite the manufacturer advocating that you use their product to lube "just as you would with any other product" after initial application before reassembling the weapon? I am skeptical of your advice.
Froglube is not a case of more is better. In fact, less is better. Where people have problems is not removing "all" the excess, every last bit. Do not rub a little extra on wear points, "just in case," when you're done. It will melt and run everywhere you don't want it to be. And that excess can cause things to gun up.
You DO NOT put this on your firing pin or around where your firing pin goes !!!! It will gum up the channel in there & you will have light strikes !!!! I guarantee you , I know for certain I had it happen to 3 of mine . I still house this & I am happy with it but do not get it near the parts near where the firing pin goes . Warning .
Bro it's just lube. You can put it on all your contact points cold if you want just fine. Or you can do as you recommend with ANY gun oil. All your doing is heating the metal so it soaks up the oil in tiny pores. Nothing different about FrogLube...
+TheGWood89 Froglube is a metal conditioner, not a lube. As such, you need to "season" the metal for it to work correctly which is done by heat (coming from sunlight, a hair dryer, heat lamp, anything that heats above the room temp).
+MrHellotherehowareu he will heat th gun when its fired. It can be used cold but its not ideal. And all gun lubes soak into the metals, its not just the froggy
weasel101 True but froglube is a metal conditioner not a straightforward lube. While you can use it like a lube, the problem is you'll find it gums up the action over time causing serious malfunctions. Froglube and Militec are both billed similarly where you "soak" it into the metal with heat and wipe off any excess. That is why you have to heat the surface and let it soak for a period of time before wiping it off.
With other lubes out there, a thin layer is left on the surface and some of it is absorbed into the metal. However if you wipe it off, the "absorbed" lube will fade quicker because it doesn't have the outer layer protecting it. Other oil out there works by creating a buffer between metal surface but froglube and other conditioners work by conditioning the metal to create that buffer space.
Of course that doesn't mean froglube is the end all solution to gun care. Any oil is better than no oil but with froglube proper use is very important or it will fail. I would say froglube is not "idiot proof" but something like breakfree is. Even if you squirted an entire bottle of break free into a gun, it'll work but if you squirted an entire bottle of froglube into something, it might work at first but eventually gum up and you'll have to use solvent to get it off.
+MrHellotherehowareu Lubrication is the process or technique employed to reduce friction between, and wear of one or both, surfaces in proximity and moving relative to each other.... Froglube is a great lubrication.
Not a "quick video" because you constantly repeat yourself. You simply talk too much; this video could have been half the length.
have froglube on my m&p 15 and sig 522 seems decent but might switch to eezox in the future.
Your problem is your gun. Glocks like to run dry. It works perfect on my 1911.
ya I'll just go ahead and use some hoppes or break free. break it down, clean it, lube it, and be done with it. I haven't even noticed frog lube at my local gun shops. must be in the section where they sell artistic ammo holding leather bracelets, tacticool stickers, and the ccw holster pouches that fling your firearm across the room.....
THAT is the very best explanation of HOW to use it. I kept adding more firing it , adding more, now my M1911 is REALLY gummy and 'slow-slide' in cold weather. I heed to strip'er down , and start all over again. Been a few years, YA THINK? LOL
Thanks ,Brother
(Moran Barrel Snag hahahahah Done that too)
(In the Army when we'd fire our M2 50 cals and M60 MG, boy we'd break out the WD-40 and SOAK those puppies. Hehehehe BUT they sang like a BIRD too)
Scouts OUT!
Always amazes me how many people brag about going years and thousands of rounds between cleaning ... Y'all wear that like a badge of honor... Like man all your doing is telling the world how lazy and irresponsible you are
I've been using froglube for years and the key to prep the metal. For all of you whining about "snake oil" I just don't understand how you can pay hundreds of dollars for a firearm and then complain about using good lube.
Maybe you should buy a sports car and then run 87 octane in it too.
well said just replace the simple green with denatured alcohol, or frog lube solvent. simple green has solids, detergents ect...pull up data sheet on simple green. 10 different chemicals. It's a degreaser for water tolerant surfaces, do not use on non-rinsable surfaces
Even the FL bottle says to lube the contact points as prescribed by the manufacturer.
The implication is to heat the metal parts of the handgrip and I would warn against that. If you heat the metal parts in the handgrip, I am worried that the form of the handgrip could change causing the slide to not mesh with the handgrip portion.I do put the liquid on the metal parts of the handgrip after I wipe off the paste on the slide mechanism and the barrel. Not much at all. Just a dab with a Q Tip is all.As you cycle the handgun, you will see the barrel and the slide mechanism start to "sweat" froglube, so it is not running dry. The metal changes as you temper the metal with the froglube. It reminds me of a cast iron skillet that has been seasoned so the meat won't stick.
wow i am speechless. i never smear anything with my fingers the acidic body oil from your fingers is horrible for your guns.
I have four 1911 I used in Vietnam from 1966 to 1969. I cleaned these alot with out lube, now I only lube the slider but wipe. I built knifes ,all hand made and frog lube is the best I have found. I even put them away with lube on them. When I take them out, all I do is wipe. By the way my son used it on his boots and I could not believe it, it worked great, of course he now buys is own.
A easy way to heat up your gun is to place it in the microwave for exactly 1:30 minutes not longer not shorter, i suggest this method to everyone
Frog Lube website says to use the lube on contact points just like the manual says. It does not say to wipe that off.
I just use crisco shortening.Same thing with out the wintergreen.
+bobby jackson crisco?? lol..why not KY jelly or honey?
+tasteegold7772 He heard about Fireclean being crisco. Totally different product than FL, but this is why jumping to conclusions is usually a bad idea.
+Creepermoss yeah misinformation is rampant unfortunately..i'm sticking with FL..never let me down.
+bobby jackson Turns out Froglube is most likely coconut oil. www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/302999-Frog-Lube-is-Coconut-Oil-You-heard-it-here-first
Cool story bro
no way in hell would I ever use or try this stuff
Nobody is forcing you too, are they? Not sure what frightens you so much, jeez....
"F" FROGLUBE!!! I have used good old fashioned motor oil for 30 years and all my guns look and function like the day they were bought!!!
Motor oil is for engines ! Not for a fucking gun ya dip shit
I agree, it is a carcinogen, never use this on guns, unless you want cancer.
Used motor oil from a gasoline engine is carcinogenic, not unused oil. Not that I use it on my gun, just saying.
like how you were your own critic. looking to get some froglube but just haven't taken the plunge yet.
Yeah... Pass.
Good Video! Very important point you make...run the gun dry after doing this process. I learned the hard way, but if you run your gun wet with Frog Lube in cold weather, it does gum up pretty bad and it creates a rather sticky surface...then malfunctions follow.
I keep reading that, but run ARs and Glocks down to zero degree weather with no issues. Maybe folks are applying too much product.
Be very careful about over using Froglube on a heated slide. It can get into the firing pin and cause malfunctions.
Frog Lube is also amazing for cleaning. You don't have to JUST use it for seasoning your gun. Also there's really no point in putting it IN the barrel
+Terminxman sure there is..its anti friction prevention..works just as well IN the barrel as out
+tasteegold7772 Well the difference is that in the barrel there is burning powder which is just going to turn it to gunk.
+Terminxman are you always this presumptuous about something you havent used?..it doesnt build up "gunk"..thats the whole point of frog lube..it dissolves a lot of the powder residue ..and besides you're supposed to clean out your barrel after every shooting session anyway
+tasteegold7772 - Froglube makes cleaning the barrel and everything else so much easier. It's literally just wipes off with a paper towel. Before the carbon would cake on and harden like concrete or plaster & would take forever to clean off. Now I just wipe it off with a paper towel, it's amazing. One $10 jar of the paste has lasted me almost three years now of using it all the time, and I still have a third off the jar left. Stuff is dirt cheap when you consider how long it lasts and how little you have to use.
On every new Glock, the rails of the slide have a certain amount of brown grease (most probably Loctite c5:a copper grease) on them which - according to the instructions of the manufacturer - should not be removed! The idea is to let it wear off by itself because it’s there to help with the break-in process of the new gun. Therefore, I’d NOT follow these instructions with a brand new gun!
Everybody that owns a Glock knows that dude . There's already been 50 of you in the comments saying the same thing.. it is not that big of a deal...
Since it is a Glock in so easy to disassemble the slide. I would recommend cleaning out your firing pin channel often with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. The only time I've ever seen a Glock fuck up was when my friend never cleaned out his firing pin channel and was getting CLp in there. He was getting light strikes with Winchester. I'm kind of OCD but I clean out my firing pin channel every time I shoot my pistol. I also use frog lube paste. Good vid though. Stuff works well when you run it dry. Especially on a pistol with loose tolerances like a Glock or Smith & Wesson SD series
I have never had a problem, but now I go back after the full clean and heat up the firing pin hole to melt any excess Froglube in the area.
Double standard says one thing and does another not very intelligent guy
Let me just say, i'm a big fan of FL. All my firearms are seasoned with it.That said, i have lubed the contact points (which you discourage) after every shooting/cleaning in cold and hot weather.Never had a single issue after thousands of rounds.Just follow the directions and you're good to go.Great product, it been very kind to me.:)
Also Rand clp is nice, just no need to heat like FL.However, Rand does stink, but you get over it. ;)
He's wrong u do use it were he's states not to he's wrong frog lube extreme is for all those parts not run dry he's a no no on lubeing
Hey man I haven't cleaned my PPq hand gun, or my AR in over 3 range trips both we're treated with frog lube. No issues so far. My question is do I use the bore snake wet or dry. Like a little bit of frog lube on it? Also the guide rod spring seems to be gummy no issues with it just seems to be sticky. Is this normal?
15Fire Bore snake use dry first then maybe a bit of frog lube with it. The guide spring I would take it out and wipe it down a bit
Hey man I just applied this to my never shot AR. I put the liquid on the BCG, and Charging handle. I'm going to store it for a little while. Their is no humidity where I'm at. Will this hurt it? Also is Fireclean better?
15Fire This will not hurt a bit. When you shoot it at first you may smell the frog lube and some may drip out of different places. NOT A PROBLEM just wipe it off when you finish shooting. I have never used fireclean.