Been using Froglube for a few years now, great product with no problems. Love the fact that I can do all my cleaning and lube in the basement, without having to use the other solvents in the workshop in the garage.
we could have used this stuff on my last tour. our M-2's got corroded bad from the sea water, maybe this stuff would have helped prevent that. this product works great on my AR platforms and I don't intend on changing lubricants. good stuff.
+Enlowra --- You may be the perfect person to ask: regarding AR platforms, do we really need to apply a wet boundary or film of FL to the BCG as shown in the video? Just a bit confused since I thought once all excess is wiped off, you're supposed to run pistols and rifles without any excess lube after the FL treatment. My firearms were a bit gunked up from the FL after storage, so I'm having to go back to basics making sure all excess is wiped clean after a thorough seasoning and cleaning. But what about the AR?
I have been using Frog Lube on all my guns for over 1 1/2 years and will not use oil based or synthetic stuff again. I thought you have to heat the metal before applying and wait for at least 1 hour before wiping it off. I will still do it this way because heating expands the metal and allows the Frog Lube to penetrate more into the metal. Dust doesn't cling to my guns, like oil that acts as a flypaper for dust n dirt.
Just cleaned my kahr cm9 with this product.... Heated all internal parts with a hair dryer FYI works wonders..... And added small amount of clp and watched it metal into the weapon system.... Have to say wow.... Can't wait till next range day just to clean it after lol thanks for this product shipmates..... Corpsmen up!!!!!!
I have this product and still use it as my preferred cleaning & lub, but I'm a little confused. In the video's I've seen before, after you clean the parts with the solvent they want you to heat up the parts with a hair dryer or something similar before applying the lube. This is a pain in the butt so I don't do that any more and just apply the lube once the parts are cleaned. I guess I'm glad I stopped wasting extra time and effort.
I see in other videos about FrogLube a full kit. Where online can a kit be purchased? Or where can it be purchased for a reasonable price online? I have searched with mixed results and this company needs to put something on here to give new customers more information where what to purchase. Solvent, CLP and ?
They have a "Clamshell" kit that has a brush, 1 oz solvent and 1.5 oz lube. This is what I purchased to see if I liked it and well the rest is history. I have the paste, spray bottle of both. I actually sold a buddy of mine the kit and he had only used Rim-Oil. Now he likes it, the kit usually runs about $30 + shipping. So for around $36 you can decide if you want to invest more into it. I'm actually close to opening my online store and have froglube as a product if you want to purchase a kit
The best on the planet I love the stuff Larry your man the only thing I clean my firearms knives and other metal tools with is easily the best thing you could clean any metal object width especially firearms
crickets ................................................................ It's mediocre, at best. There is a kinetic and a static coefficient. There is also the full tribology analysis, and Fraudlube is pretty terrible from a tribology and a lubrication program engineering standpoint. Moly has plates that slide on one another, and it's usually very good for high temps. For grease, Redline is my favorite. Oil? Mobil 1 0W 20 with mineral or thin PAG oil over the top is fabulous. Am I going to take some dipshit using a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner seriously, next to my petroleum engineer friend who worked for 3M for 26 years, and jumped ship to BP, then Lubriplate? FUCK NO! That's why I call it "Fraudlube". It's crap. You can't use it below 0. It's like frozen toothpaste. If it has to be a gun lube. Slip 2000, Tetra, or G96. Ballistol, and Breakfree for cleaning, and the rest of it is all garbage.
Has anyone tried on the inside of gi mags if so will it or how does it works and can I get a lil greedy by inquiring about its performance in polymer mags
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should be liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake, it'll gum-up later)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide & barrel will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, slide rails on grip/body, ) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
Been using Froglube for a few years now, great product with no problems. Love the fact that I can do all my cleaning and lube in the basement, without having to use the other solvents in the workshop in the garage.
we could have used this stuff on my last tour. our M-2's got corroded bad from the sea water, maybe this stuff would have helped prevent that. this product works great on my AR platforms and I don't intend on changing lubricants. good stuff.
+Enlowra --- You may be the perfect person to ask: regarding AR platforms, do we really need to apply a wet boundary or film of FL to the BCG as shown in the video? Just a bit confused since I thought once all excess is wiped off, you're supposed to run pistols and rifles without any excess lube after the FL treatment. My firearms were a bit gunked up from the FL after storage, so I'm having to go back to basics making sure all excess is wiped clean after a thorough seasoning and cleaning. But what about the AR?
I have been using Frog Lube on all my guns for over 1 1/2 years and will not use oil based or synthetic stuff again. I thought you have to heat the metal before applying and wait for at least 1 hour before wiping it off. I will still do it this way because heating expands the metal and allows the Frog Lube to penetrate more into the metal. Dust doesn't cling to my guns, like oil that acts as a flypaper for dust n dirt.
do you put CLP on prior to shooting? I'm getting mixed answers on that
If you use Frog Lube , you just apply it as per instruction and wipe off. You don't ever mix Frog Lube with a petroleum product.
I meant the frog lube CLP version. My bad should have clarified. Some say they put some on prior and some say they basically shoot it dry
Looks like Alpine, CA. Nice fellas!!
Just cleaned my kahr cm9 with this product.... Heated all internal parts with a hair dryer FYI works wonders..... And added small amount of clp and watched it metal into the weapon system.... Have to say wow.... Can't wait till next range day just to clean it after lol thanks for this product shipmates..... Corpsmen up!!!!!!
I have this product and still use it as my preferred cleaning & lub, but I'm a little confused. In the video's I've seen before, after you clean the parts with the solvent they want you to heat up the parts with a hair dryer or something similar before applying the lube. This is a pain in the butt so I don't do that any more and just apply the lube once the parts are cleaned. I guess I'm glad I stopped wasting extra time and effort.
You season the gun by heating it up you dont have todo it every time just a simple wipe down after
I see in other videos about FrogLube a full kit. Where online can a kit be purchased? Or where can it be purchased for a reasonable price online? I have searched with mixed results and this company needs to put something on here to give new customers more information where what to purchase. Solvent, CLP and ?
They have a "Clamshell" kit that has a brush, 1 oz solvent and 1.5 oz lube. This is what I purchased to see if I liked it and well the rest is history. I have the paste, spray bottle of both. I actually sold a buddy of mine the kit and he had only used Rim-Oil. Now he likes it, the kit usually runs about $30 + shipping. So for around $36 you can decide if you want to invest more into it. I'm actually close to opening my online store and have froglube as a product if you want to purchase a kit
Larry - great products and video. Question: You did not mention heating the metal prior to applying the FrogLube?
i was gonna ask the same question he didnt preheat the metal everyone i hear on you tube says to heat it before you apply it wtf???
Rockin Pip
The best on the planet I love the stuff Larry your man the only thing I clean my firearms knives and other metal tools with is easily the best thing you could clean any metal object width especially firearms
Im going to treat my weapon with froglube before I use it for the first time thanks
Anyone know what the music is? Adds bit of extra texture to the spiel. All comments welcome Thanks
If the paste is left in a hot car or garage(over 150 F degrees) should i be careful opening it so it doesn't spill ?
Does it really matter weather you use nylon or brass brush
Nice counter strike: source sound effects 😂😂😂
I thought you had to heat the parts up and let them sit. thats how you guys used do it what gives.
How does the lubricity/friction modification of this product compare to micron-moly or zinc?
crickets ................................................................ It's mediocre, at best. There is a kinetic and a static coefficient. There is also the full tribology analysis, and Fraudlube is pretty terrible from a tribology and a lubrication program engineering standpoint. Moly has plates that slide on one another, and it's usually very good for high temps. For grease, Redline is my favorite. Oil? Mobil 1 0W 20 with mineral or thin PAG oil over the top is fabulous. Am I going to take some dipshit using a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner seriously, next to my petroleum engineer friend who worked for 3M for 26 years, and jumped ship to BP, then Lubriplate? FUCK NO! That's why I call it "Fraudlube". It's crap. You can't use it below 0. It's like frozen toothpaste. If it has to be a gun lube. Slip 2000, Tetra, or G96. Ballistol, and Breakfree for cleaning, and the rest of it is all garbage.
Has anyone tried on the inside of gi mags if so will it or how does it works and can I get a lil greedy by inquiring about its performance in polymer mags
+Delmar Robins --- That's a good question....
Do I have to heat it up before I use it?
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) "
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should be liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake, it'll gum-up later)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide & barrel will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, slide rails on grip/body, ) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
What is the song at the begging of the video??
I'm confused why do they say they are the only bio based when there is Seal1 below
www.biopreferred.gov/bioPreferredCatalog/productDetails?ID=44609
Shipmate*