Eg4 3000w 48v inverter install and load testing. Signature Solar beginner friendly solar inverter
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2023
- In this video, I show the eg4 3kw inverter. I give some tips on how to install it, as well as load test the unit. I think it's an awesome entry-level inverter. Expandable,very capable, and easy to install.
Here is a link to how to install a critical loads panel. • Battery backup solar: ...
Here is a link to learn more about ground neutral bonding
signaturesolar.com/blog/demys...
Affiliate links:
Link to the eg4 3kw inverter signaturesolar.com/eg4-3kw-of...
These are the newest version of the rack batteries I was using in the video
signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-lit...
Signature Solar Budget rack batteries that are compatible with this inverter. signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepo...
Link to inexpensive hammer crimper
amzn.to/3CSALsa
Signature solar PV disconnect
signaturesolar.com/dc-disconn...
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I have 2 of these and 4 48 volt 100 amp batteries 6200 watts solar panels I can run 2 chest freezers an upright freezer, a mini freezer, a refrigerator, a modern, 10000 btu window AC a 6000 btu window AC, and finally a 2 burner cooktop. I cut the power bill by 70%. Maybe $70 on average a month. . in Florida
That is awesome! That’s why I love solar. It can be a small system just for emergencies. Or you can expand and do what you’ve done.
Great video as usual. I can hardly wait to do a cart build with one of these. I liked the multiple load tests you did. Nice to see the reset after a fault, too. Keep up the good work!
I’d like to see that cart build when you’re finished. This is actually a simple inverter. Easy to work on and use. I had fun doing the video. It’s so light it’s like a toy.
Clear picture, clear sound, clear narration, very useful information. You have a new subscriber.
Really appreciate that. Thank you!
Well done you two. Mark it’s funny shows how much happier and vigorous you are that you were able to conceive. A child is a blessing and creates abundance when it has two loving parents. Wish all three of you lots of love and happiness
No idea who Mark is. And we aren’t expecting another child. But thank you for the well wishes. 🙂
Thanks Gavin, great video, my battery came at 55% and I did the initial charge with AC and the fan was cranking.
Great video. I have a Growatt 3000 SPF I use in the same way but with a reliance manual transfer switch. It’s always a backup for two fridge circuits and a few lights circuits. If I need to power more during an outage I simply flip those from UTIL to Inverter for those circuits on the TS.
That’s a great use case. That’s what I was trying to convey in this video. A great inexpensive power backup option.
@@GavinStoneDIYI use mine off grid to power my pool pump, heater etc, TV, security cameras, outlets for stuff. If grid goes down, I have a 30 amp interlock with my main panel. Just remove the NG bond and I'm ready for emergency backup. Manual xfer switch was not an option due to panel location and other infrastructure.
Was thinking about picking two of those up. Instead I went with the sp6548 , great vid. I'm new to this just try to learn as I go👊
For such a small package, that things a little beast!
That’s what she said
"People don't know what dumb is" that's priceless. You just got a new sub. Great video, and lots of good information, I'm looking to get one come August for my off grid set up.
Yeah, I’ve heard people say “common sense isn’t so common anymore”.
Thanks for watching, let me know how the setup goes.
Nice...I can see a couple uses for one of those! Great video Gavin!
Thanks man. It’s a cool little inverter!
Thanks for such a thorough video! Helping me as I set up my own unit.
Sure thing! I do talk a bit more about it on my follow up video. I know how it was when I first set up an inverter. So it helps to see things and how it all goes together.
These smaller but powerful All-In-One inverters are ideal for building portable power stations.
For example, by making a DIY trolley with 4 rotating castors down and from the middle vertical support - looking like an upside-down T + 4 angled supports to the 4 bottom corners from the top of the vertical support and hooking this All-In-One inverter on one side and a vertical wall battery on the other side (short cables in between them) This way it makes a stand-alone portable powerful solar system with a smaller size like using a hand truck, which will be used normally.
I really like the idea of these on a cart. They are so light and easy to move around. I’ve seen a couple builds with similar ideas. That’s why I wanted to show people a low cost power backup option for critical loads panel instead maybe. It really says something about a unit when there is so many possible use cases.
The one answer that I have not seen on UA-cam or in the manual is how do I precharge the inverter if I am not using EG4 batteries?? Love your presentation and looking forward to adding one of these fine inverters to our system
That is an excellent question. I’ve never discussed it before. I’ll cover that in an upcoming video for sure. Look on Amazon for a 30 ohm resistor. You’ll find multi packs for really cheap. And there is different ohm ratings. But a 30 should be fine for most applications. Or you could even use a #2 pencil with both ends exposed. You’ll touch one end to your battery cable before connecting it. And the other to somewhere convenient like the battery terminal or the breaker. And that slows the flow of current to the inverter. Takes about 30 seconds usually.
Nice, appreciate the tutorial and review!
Thanks for watching!
This site is excellent. Subscribed!
I think that you will find that during bypass or inverting, the ground relay switches that grounds apart. you should be using the CASE ground for off grid. I am not certain as I don't own that particular model, but this is what I have been told
I was curious why they have both options. But the terminal and case seem to remain bonded in both cases. Could be they changed the design a bit and left the screw there.
Great video as usual
I have 3. They work fine
Great review! You actually convinced me to buy one of these to off-set my mini split consumption off of my main system. If I were to hook it up exactly like yours, with N+G bond inside the breaker panel, with a couple of 20 amps outlets, can I then use a power cord to charge it with the grid? I mean, in the same exact config like yours, is it possible? Love your reviews!
It definitely would be possible yes. So if you were supplying it with grid power you wouldn’t bond the breaker panels n/g. The main panel would supply the bond. Since you only want it bonded in one place. I hope they makes sense. I’ll hopefully be releasing a second video on this inverter soon. I’m working on editing it now. It might be a bit long though. 🙂
@@GavinStoneDIY Yep, it makes totally sense. Looking forward to the second part on this inverter. I'll hopefully order mine this week. Thanks for your awesome reviews.
I also have a question about using a power cord to charge with the grid. Do I need some kind of fuse or breaker on that grid cord or just from the wall plug to the inverter? Thanks for any help with this
@@LarryRichelli the receptacle would come from the grid and have its own breaker. Technically you could only charge around 2000 watts from a standard wall plug. When it’s capable of charging at much higher wattage. So you’d have to limit your charging amperage on the inverter menu. The most efficient way of using the inverter charging from the grid would be to wire it directly from your grid panel with the wire and breaker specified in the manual. But I wall plug would do the trick in a pinch.
Nice vid. and great info…
Thanks man.
Great video, may i ask what size liquidtight fitting did you use on the AC out hole? ..thanks
I think it’s designed for 3/4. The 1/2 I used was a bit loose.
Thanks for the info saved me some trouble was going to order 1/2 inch@@GavinStoneDIY
I know you can double tap the down button to see how many volts your panels are bringing into the inverter. Is there a way to check how many amps are coming in from the panels?
Yes, as you scroll through that’s one of the options.
Did you mention what the stand-by consumption is? I might have missed it.
I didn’t actually. 😐 it never fails there’s a few items I forget. It’ll be in my follow up video. Thanks for keeping me in line. 🙂
I got my working Saturday and I was so excited everything was working nice, but I have been getting fault error 04 and data logger says over temperature. Its got enough room so I don't know why its over heating. The max load on it has been around 15% havent even reached 1000wh. Im not sure what is causing it. I had to turn it off for the night. 😢
I would call eg4. That definitely doesn’t sound normal.
do we just chop the end off an extension cord and wire it into ac input on inverter for generator then plug into gen? and start the gen...kinda confused how to hook up gen
Ideally you’d hook up a wire capable of supporting 30 amps 120v from the generator. That’s how much this inverter can use. So a 10awg wire from a 30 amp plug would work. Better yet, you could just purchase the chargeveter and charge your batteries from the generator. That’s really an easier option. signaturesolar.com/eg4-chargeverter-battery-charger-48v-100a-5120w-output-240/120v-input?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjt-oBhDKARIsABVRB0wb5TwwjUIPwfeJ18pbaU0S8luBANqrs5-49yw_IknWUFk4PLQB2MwaAr3ZEALw_wcB&hsa_acc=6010647758&hsa_ad=&hsa_cam=17631500090&hsa_grp=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_ver=3&ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo&setCurrencyId=1&sku=1570007&PMax%3A%20Shopping_Smart_Brands&
The PV In looks like it would accept much in the way of AWG. I get the others will be AC and so much smaller wire. What is the maximum AWG the PV IN can take?
It looked like 8awg. Which would be fine. This unit can take 500voc. So your voltage should definitely be high enough to have 10 awg in most cases.
would love to see two of there ran in parallel....with a 220 outlet to charge an Electric Car.
Couple questions for you - - the breaker looks like it is installed backwards. Line should go to the battery and the load should go to the inverter, everything I have researched shows that. Can you explain why you put this polarized breaker the wrong way - wouldn't that cause a DC arc/fire? Second question - how to ground your PV system? Do you run a wire from your bonded panels to your AC box? Or are you running a separate grounding rod specifically for those panels?
Technically these breakers are still considered bidirectional I believe. Really a 200 amp T class fuse would be the ideal thing to add.
The PV is supposed to be grounded at one point. In an off grid setting that’s often near the sub panel. And where people have grid as a bypass the ground would need to be given a path to the main grounding rod. Some people run a dedicated conductor all the way back to the main. Some people tie it into the inverters grounding system. I prefer not to have my PV grounds near my equipment.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you - - ua-cam.com/video/q-uDyzkKwVA/v-deo.html this fellow did a test on this breaker - you'll see the load/vs line side. Usually they don't say load/line if they are not polarized. One more question for ya - - - I see that circuit breaker doesn't have a bond to ground for that DIN rail. Should it be bonded? In this video of yours ua-cam.com/video/HYjErVlx8cY/v-deo.html you show the enclosed box from signature solar. Do you bond that at all to ground? Or is that only needed for SPD? Thanks in advance - love your videos sir.
Thank you sir for a great video. I just picked up my inverter last week. One quick question. Did you just make the connections or did you have to change any program settings? Also I wanted to thank you for not having any stupid music playing during your videos. What a pleasure.
Thanks for watching. I do have to agree, I’m not so fond of the music thing either.
I did have to change my inverter to eg4 battery protocol. I think I mention that in this or the next video. And depending on your solar input, you might adjust the charging amps. Also something I forgot to mention on my video. For some reason the unit came set at 50hz. And you’ll want to make sure that’s 60hz.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for your quick response Gavin. I will be getting with signature solar for the program settings when I am ready to switch everything on. Thank you again.
@@jamesfritzinger5622 sure thing. The biggest thing I would say is just take your time and be careful. Also, make sure you use a precharge resistor when hooking your batteries up for the first time.
Hello again Gavin. I do have the resistors and will charge the capacitors but if all of the instructions and precautions are followed there should be no fireworks or damage.(all power is turned off and all connections are torqued to proper specifications). Am I wrong in assuming this?
The EG4-LL power-on procedure requires one to close its circuit breaker first then turn-on its BMS switch, in other for its in-rush current limiting mode to function correctly. I noticed that you first turned-on the EG4-LL BMS switch which causes the in-rush circuitry to start and you then closed its circuit breaker, which by that time the in-rush current limiting function is already over. Please contact EG4 tech support to verify and/or watch the power-on procedure in several other UA-cam videos.
The precharge sequence likely wouldn’t have finished that quickly. But good catch on this one. I’ll try to mention it in another video.
Great video! Besides PV input, is there a way to hookup a wind turbine?
Wind actually generates a much more inconsistent supply. For that and other reasons you would have to use a specific wind charge controller. Midnight solar has one I believe. I haven’t researched a lot into wind to be honest. It typically can’t provide much power compared to solar.
@@GavinStoneDIY
Thanks!!
So separate controller for wind turbine from the EG4? But then I assume, (hope) the wind turbine controller can be hooked up to same battery configuration as solar, the EG4 batteries?
Understood wind is different animal & inconsistent, but really want to have something supplemental @ night if only to meet or exceed the approx 60w of idle consumption to avoid coming from battery. (Will have bare bones system to start with one battery & idle consumption is major concern @ night when not producing power from PV).
Thanks again!!
@@InVinoVeritas. yes indeed, the separate charge controller can be incorporated into the same battery bank. You would just use the battery voltage for your charging parameters. If you have enough wind that would be awesome to help with some night time loads. I have toyed with the idea of eventually putting a small turbine up. I just haven’t gotten into really researching possible yields from it. And where I live the wind isn’t really all that impressive..
What size cable gland did you use? I would appreciate the info if you can find the time. Thanks.
I used 1/2 conduit. But it was a bit small. I believe it’s designed for 3/4.
IS there any way around the required 120v minimum solar input? I am putting this in a van and getting 120V of solar with limited install space is not easy. Thank you
You could add a separate charge controller. Like a smaller Victron for instance. Those can work off very little voltage. But that sort of defeats the purpose of an all in one inverter in some ways. That’s probably the only workaround that I could think of.
spray some lube (ptfe based or silicone is pretty clean) in the TEMCO hammer crimper it's insane how smooth it operates after that. Spray it in the back where your finger goes there's a hole
Good idea. I’ll try that before my next project.
So I am getting a mains undervoltage when I connect the grounding cable to ac in. Since that cable is in there it thinks ac is giving input. Going to try the screw on the bottom and see if that error resolves.
I believe those terminals are both just connected to the case of the inverter with a lug. So that shouldn’t make a difference either way.
@@GavinStoneDIY do you have the same alert on your smart Ess app ? Thanks again sir.
@@Yowhatsupman I haven’t seen that alert no. There is likely a different cause.
So 10 gauge wire from AC OUT (and that piggyback ground wire over there on the side) to small subpanel. Move some home circuits to said small subpanel. Use 30 amp breaker since the unit can't do more than 25A output anyway (I'm shocked by this statement since those batteries should be able to output 100A easily)...
If I'm skipping the busbar, and just putting in 4 100Ah batteries in 48V series, I can just put a on-off switch on the red wire, hook a victron smart shunt onto the black wire, and then land them both right into the inverter without the busbar. Yeah? Do I need a disconnect for the AC too or should the 30A breaker just be considered that stopgap instead?
The unit comes with a breaker for the DC positive. So you should be good there. If you’re hooking 4 12v batteries in series I would buy a battery balancer also. Since they will get out of balance over time.
You shouldn’t need a disconnect for the AC side. The breaker will do that for you. But some people do install one, it’s more preference really.
If you have it connected to the grid and batteries with solar and the gid goes down during a rain storm of 5 days, how do you input your generator as it did not seem like there was room for "Gen In"?
So the input is designed for either a generator or grid. It doesn’t have a separate input for generator specifically. The easier option would be to have a chargeverter. I have a review on that. And you could use a generator to charge your battery bank with the chargeveter in the event the grid was down long term and you batteries were low.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks for all the helpful answers.
i made one of these for my EV Car. I just use it as a slow Charger. 1.4kw per hour
That’s pretty cool. Free gas is a great thing either way.
will it work without a battery hooked up to it.?
@@fergman300 Yes it will. I have 6-400 watt panels laying flat on the ground in my courtyard. Under perfect conditions they produce about 1.95 KW per hour. They ramp up and down to that peak number each day.
Does the inverter have continuity between the ground and neutral? If so, can that be changed?
If you install the g/n screw it does. The new models already have the screw removed. So they do not come with an internal bond.
Is it necessary to use the eg4 LL batteries with this unit?
I would like to get one. But not if I have to discard my 6 brand new Redodo 100ah batteries.
No, you can definitely use the redodo’s. They wouldn’t be able to communicate with the the inverter. But you could use the lead acid setting. So the inverter would charge and discharge those batteries based off voltage. I ran everything like this for over a year without issue.
If they are 12v redodo’s you would series 4 of them to equal the 48v you need.
What type of Solar panel array would you recommend for this inverter and one or two 5000w batteries?
With the solar aspect It would depend on a few factors. Like how much average sun you get in your area. But probably at least 1500-2000 watts would be a good start. Obviously more is better if possible. The more solar you have the more the inverter can charge and also supply power to loads at the same time. The batteries are similar in the sense that more better is better. Starting with 2 batteries would be ideal. Really it often seems to come down to budget. If your budget allows for two batteries and 2000+ watts of solar that would be the best. If you’re in the US the 30% tax credit definitely helps.
How many server rack batteries can i hook up to this? All the videos i see for this unit only use one.
As many as you like. I have 3 hooked up to it. But a lot of people use a full cabinet (6). Or you could add one of the new pro batteries. Which equals about 3 rack batteries.
Affiliate link to this inverter:
signaturesolar.com/eg4-3kw-off-grid-inverter-3000ehv-48/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo
How did you turn the beeping off? In the manual I only see how to on the warning buzzer.
I believe it was on setting 18 “buzzer mute”. So unfortunately that will mute your alarms as well. But that’s the same way it was on my 6500 watt inverters.
Thanks!@@GavinStoneDIY
Is a battery needed for this to operate...or can it operate just off solar panels.
If you want to power any significant loads yes. I believe in the specs it says you can have some limited functionality without batteries. In my tests it would shut down when tested loads on it with solar only.
Excellent review. Nice work. Can you comment on the NG bond screw and if it is installed or not? Mine came without it and as a result i am not bonded in battery/inverter mode. Theyre sending me a screw. They sell you an off grid inverter that you cant safely use off grid. And support is non existent. Months to get an email reply. Thanks!
Mine came without a bond. So I assume it doesn’t have a screw. I could crack it open to check. But I’m fairly certain it would be missing. . You can bond it in the breaker panel like I did. Just needs a jumper wire between ground and neutral.
@@GavinStoneDIY if using off grid, it needs the screw! Be safe.
@@tsp2jxd the screw bonds the g/n inside the inverter. It basically just grounds the neutral to the case of the inverter. And the case is grounded with that terminal I used or the screw on the bottom. You can use that screw they are sending you to bond it. Or you can bond it in your breaker panel. Either one, just not both. The important factor is that it’s bonded. Prior to these discussions in recent years most people bonded their off grid breaker panel.
Great bud thx. That’s not grid-tie is it? Would love to see two in parallel to tie in with a main panel (if they are in fact grid-tie). 👍🏻
It’s a off grid inverter. So it can use the grid as bypass in case the batteries are depleted. But it cannot backfeed the grid.
@@GavinStoneDIY Is there zero leakage between the inverter and grid in hybrid operation? Most seem to backfeed a little as loads change.
@@patrickkenny2077 there isn’t a possibility of back feeding. The inverter itself doesn’t actually feed the main panel. Technically it could if you have an interlock or transfer switch. Otherwise these inverters are designed to feed a critical loads panel. Which is completely separate from your main panel.
@@GavinStoneDIY From what I understand, most of these inverters leak power back to utility, especially when PV or load change quickly. They aren't intended to, but it is hard to avoid.
Have you measured no energy on the utility, or assuming?
@@patrickkenny2077 it’s just not possible with this inverter. Unless you had it wired in a dangerous and completely wrong manner. It doesn’t feed the main panel. It can receive power from the grid as bypass. But it cannot back feed on the input. Its just not wired that way. There are inverters like solark and 18kpv that have frequency matching capabilities. Those can actually be wired into your main panel. Those types of inverters can in theory leak back to the grid if they are wired into your main panel. That may be what you’re referring to. I have the 18kpv but I have it wired to feed a critical loads panel the same as this 3kw inverter. And in those instances it’s just not possible to backfeed.
If you hook to a solar panel do u need a charge controller?
This unit has its own built in charge controller. That’s why they are commonly referred to as all in one units. AIO. They have the inverter and charge controller built in.
Isn't there already a ground neutral bond in the inverter?
Why both load center and the unit ?
Thanks in advance
The newer units come without a bonding screw. So I added the bond in the load panel. You can also contact SS and they’ll send you a bonding screw for the unit if you needed it.
I enjoyed the video. I've got the same inverter, with 1 48v eg4ll battery. I built a cart build. I'm not off grid. I'm having problems with the inverter communication with the battery. I also wired in a 120v cord for input power to the inverter. It will not charge the battery. Also, I'm getting a fault code of C19. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
The f19 error is just telling you to hook the battery communication up. Do you have your setting 5 set to eg4 protocol? The manual does a pretty good job of describing how to hook the eg4 LL’s up to the inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIY Yes, setting 5 is for eg4. Communication data plug is in both the battery and inverter.
@@jvm3753 make sure you have the correct cable. And the dip switches are in the correct positions.
@@GavinStoneDIY The dip switches is where I feel the issue is. The manual contridics itself. Which direction is on, off. I've tried both positions.
@@jvm3753 don’t pay attention to the specific verbiage they use. Just copy the picture they have in there for the LL model.
I have a powmr brand thats really similar to that but id rather have had the eg4. The eg4 3000 has much more capability as far as solar input
Yeah it’s a really nice inverter. I think it has the highest solar input voltage for this model type.
i wish i understood this better I'm trying to install this inverter package in my trailer this is a little confusing for me I'm not trying to power a grid i simply want to power my trailer by itself. outlets lights mini split fridge and basics like tv does anyone have a video i can follow
Can you upgrade your two eg4 3000 units with one extra and still be 2 phase at 9k? The eg46500ex 48v inverters cannot upgrade with just one unit at a time to have dual phase. It has to be two at a time.
These would be the same as the 6500’s in that respect. They each provide a 120v leg. So you need pairs to achieve 240v.
@@GavinStoneDIY my mini split 3 ton 2 unit Mr cool is one that I have a 240v with. Everything else is 120v. I do have 12-eg4 lifepo batteries
5.12 kw each. Thinking of taking one 6 bank of batteries for the Mr cool to be run separate and leave my setup of 27- 460/575 gain blue sun pv's to run my now "sundowned" (2) eg4 6500ex 48v inverters to run my 120 side. Maybe obtain 15 more of the blue sun pv's like I have now to run the other setup with a eg 4 6000xp inverter. Your thoughts?
@@lindaferguson593 I guess it depends on your power consumption. The 6500’s will pull a lot of idle wattage for just taking care of smaller tasks. If you have access to 6000xp’s let them do all the work.
If you were to use the 6500’s I would just have everything on the same battery bank. I just wouldn’t use coms with the 6500’s.
@GavinStoneDIY coms? Please elaborate. I'm a knowledgeable 66 year old but need layman's terms. Love your videos though and keep them coming, please.
Using the input grounding terminal will leave your system ungrounded when the unit disengages the bonding between the input and the ground neutral bond in the unit. The input ground is only connected to the chassis during AC bypass mode.
There is continuity between the case and the input terminal when bypass is disengaged . I checked this to make sure. In other words, when using the unit with or without grid, the terminal and case seem to be bonded.
@@GavinStoneDIY that would be a defect. There isn’t supposed to be a bond between that terminal and the chassis while the inverter is providing power. At least that’s the direct response I have from signature solar. I’m in the process of hooking up 4 of these in split phase. If what you’re saying turns out to be true, that’s going to be a safety issue for my system.
@@michaelpeden4033 congrats on the install. I’d like to see that when it’s finished actually. Maybe you could explain the safety issue you’d be having in this instance.
@@GavinStoneDIY in a system that is tied to the utility, introducing a second ground neutral bond produces a situation where current will flow on the ground wire during normal operation.
@@michaelpeden4033 the case ground and terminal ground having continuity isn’t related to ground neutral bonding. You could utilize either one. In this case it just insures that the chassis won’t become a conductor in the event something goes wrong.
Can it be programmed to shutdown say 10 pm to 6 am?
I don’t believe it has any time of use settings. It does really well in eco mode though. So if there isn’t any loads it uses very little power.
How many 15 amp circuits do you think this can handle? I'm in the middle of installing my system and realized that I needed at least one more circuit than I was planning on. I do need one 20 amp circuit too. I hope to level 1 charge my electric car.
So it can output 25 amps total. That’s 3,000 watts divided by 120v.
@@GavinStoneDIY I think I was tired when I asked that. LOL This morning I said, come on Jim, it is like having a 25 amp service. People show videos of this thing running 3 refrigerators and furnaces all at the same time. Will Prowse ran a few heat guns at the same time and you know they pull more than 25 amps. But I guess even when people say this will back up your house for awhile in an emergency, it isn't true.
@@Javaman92 it will back up essentials for sure. It’s hard to find something at this price point that will power your fridges and freezers in a power outage.
The eg4 6000xp is the next step up. That can power 240v loads also. So it really depends on what someone is wanting to accomplish.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thing is for 120v loads only the 3k and 6k units are the same, only 3,000 watts total 🤷♂️
@@bizzfo the 6000xp is 6kw total. If you need 6,000 watts of 120v loads you just have to spread them out between both phases. And that’s not difficult really.
How would you wire up the Generator Start feature
I haven’t even researched the dry contacts for the generator start. They are capable of automatically starting a generator based off SOC.. I may look into that more.
@@GavinStoneDIY I have an Aims generator which can connect to the but I'm not sure how to set everything up
I want to put this in my RV with 1 48v battery. But I want to get a 12v A/C. How can you run a 12v A/C with this?
Can you clarify what you mean by 12v a/c? Air conditioner? You can buy something called a buck converter. It will step the 48v down to 12v for any appliances or lights you might need.
@@GavinStoneDIY roof top A/C. It runs off 12v that needs to be connected straight to the 12v battery's. I know about the step down but I don't think you can hook the 12v A/C into that?
@@Mikesroadtrip-ec5kp as long as the step down converter has an amperage rating for the A/C I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.
I thought the neutral and ground bond happens inside the inverter using a relay when you're on inverter power. Then when you pull from utility power the relay opens and the bond is done in the utility main box. Supposedly this is why the bond screw is not there which would make it 100% bonded all the time.
I’ve heard people say this. But I didn’t see it in my testing. Could be a different firmware.
@@GavinStoneDIY I read on DIY forum they removed this feature on more recent ones. Yours must be a new one although I don't even know if they mentioned it. Now you have it bonded in two places, and at the main panel where the meter connects.
@@Mike-01234 I didn’t have grid power to the unit. So I was only bonded in one place.
Did you become a sales rep for SS?
I became an affiliate for them months ago. As well as some other suppliers.
Actually the breaker switch on the battery is supposed to be on to charge the capicitors in the inverter before you turn the battery on...
Exactly right. I believe I mentioned that in the video. If not I’ll be making a short video soon explaining how to charge the capacitors without a rack battery with a precharge resistor.
Did you update the firmware?
I didn’t no. I haven’t looked at the change log. The unit functions fine so there probably isn’t a need.
Might be good in a RV system 🤔
It depends on your needs. But definitely is small and quiet enough for that.
A NEWBE here. You were doing great till you began speaking "confusion" at 15 min 56 second point. ... and lost me.
Think that is a Data cable between the inverter to connect to battery.
"Inverter came with 2 identical cables (Look the SAME), but you are using the one with a tag. Why does Inverterter have 2 cables that look the SAME...? Are they identical cables, and what use is the 2nd identical cable ?
What are EGLL models or using Budget models ? please EXPLAIN..! I have never hooked any solar up before! So, I want to use the correct cables, and place/plug in exactly the correct cable into the right plug.
Thank you
Ahh ok no worries. So to be honest I’m not sure why they sent two communication cables instead of one. I just showed the tag on the particular cable I’m using. The manual does a great job of explaining how to connect those batteries to the inverter. So you should be good to go with that. The batteries themselves, Signature Solar sells an eg4 rack battery called the eg4 LL model. Which is what I’m using in the video. I’ve added a link below on the description. You can buy the rack like I have. Or just start with one battery at first. Their newest version looks a bit different but it’s essentially the same thing. They also sell a budget model of those batteries called the Lifepower4. I have those in the description as well. Both of them have the same storage capacity. The LL’s just have a nice screen and a batter warranty. Either of their eg4 rack batteries will communicate directly with this inverter. In my follow up video I mention the setting I used on the menu to enable communication. I know it all seems sort of confusing at first. But feel free to ask questions as you go. I’ll be happy to help.
I thought I read that the surge on this was 5k?
I believe it’s 6kw for 5 seconds is what it’s rated for.
@@GavinStoneDIY You are correct great video as always. Keep making this great content!
1980 wants their monitor back
The LCD display? Certainly isn’t the most fancy for sure. Just gives the numbers.
Full color like the 18kpv is so much nicer to look at.
So far today 1 hour listening to elevator music. No one is answering at signature solar. No response to support, website issues, chat mode, or any department over there. This is day two of trying to get hold of anyone there. Are they still in business? Does anyone have another phone number?
They’ve had bad issues in the past with their phone service I know. Your tried customer service?
Finally call back by Dustin where he accused me of being rude with the operator. Claims there is nothing wrong with the phone system and I must have been calling and hanging up. Yeah, Signature Solar is not for me.
@@davidhamel2663 that’s a shame. Sorry to hear that. Probably a good idea to email customer service and tell them all the details. Though I realize that would take more time.
they discontinued the inverter. i think,
I still see it available on their site. I know the 6000ex and 6500 ex were both discontinued.
Put a Victron smart shunt on DC side to measure DC - AC efficiency at different loads. There kind of reviews without data provide no useful value.
I tried to cover what I thought would be most helpful on this video. Obviously it wasn’t helpful to you.
@@GavinStoneDIY I am also interested in inverter efficiency and think the recommendation is a good one. Sometimes the standby consumption can be very low but two inverters running the same load can have a 100w total output difference. I saw a video about it and the victron inverter was the power hog culprit.
I find it very noisy. Louder than my white noise machine.
If it’s using full ac output or full PV input it can get loud for sure. Generally though it’s fairly quiet compared to some the others I’ve reviewed.
You must of been talking about Democrats
Nope. Just solar.