I have a 3HP Colchester, Clausing in US. It's 3 phase runing from single phase via an inverter and runs perfectly. An advantage of the inverter is you can alter the speed without having use the gearbox, sometimes helps reduce chatter. I have a cheap chinese inverter that has proved reliable. I would say you're better off buying an old US or eurpean heavyweight than a new lathe from China. The imprtamt part is make the ways are not worn, gibs can be sorted out easily. Buying a machine from a genuine machine shop where they are selling because they ate moving to CNC can be good as they can demonstrate the condition of ways etc.
Absolutely bang on advice Joe. I sure wish this had been available when I bought my first lathe. I fell into pretty much every single trap you mention. I hope and wish for every first timer to see this specific video. And a piece of Joe advice that sits with me every day................"Buy nice or buy twice!". Cheers and best regards.
Joe's point that you need to determine FIRST what the mission is cannot be overstated. I've said this time and time again on the forums whenever people start a thread about what's better for a first lathe, Lathe A or Lathe B. If you don't know what you want to make, and have a generalized "I want to learn machining" goal, go buy a cheap, USED, small Chinese bench lathe. 7x14 or 8x16 will be just fine. Learn how to turn quality parts with an undersized, underpowered lathe and you'll quickly gain knowledge. Buy it used and cheap, you can sell it after a year or two, when you've gained some experience without losing a ton of money, and go buy your last lathe. I bought several lathes, cleaned and repaired them, and sold them for a profit. Look for the lesser known brands like Sheldon instead of South Bend, and you might be surprised at how little you can get them for. My current lathe is a Cincinnati 10x24. It weighs 1800 lbs, the bed is 9.125" across and the saddle is 18 inches long. Basically, it's the bed and saddle off a much larger lathe in a tiny footprint. It's heavy and rigid, has a 1-3/8" spindle through hole so 5c collets can be installed directly into a spindle bush.
If the lathe a person is looking at has 3 phase power required, get a VFD. This will convert the single phase to 3 phase. It also gives a lot of nice features like controlled accel and decell, variable speed. easy reversing and more. In my shop even if I have 3 phase I would still use a VDF.
All the time the teacher i get so much from you I have a book of tips N tricks and references to the video its on We need you back mate its a long time between drinks Big Cheers from N Q AUSTRALIA
i have a size B Chinese tool holder, Aloris knock off, works fine for the hobbyist or user with smallish pieces to work on, extra tool holders are inexpensive, the only issue is to rotate the whole thing you have to use wrench on the top nut, the handle allows you to change tool holders, i did get a new 6 inch 4 jaw chuck and had to make base plate, cast iron heavy but had NO problem
My parents taught me to buy the best that I could afford, and that waiting until you can afford something is a good thing. My first lathe was a used combo lathe/ mill machines. It was a great way for me to decide if I would actually use one and to see what features I wanted on my next lathe. I now own a Precision Matthews 12X36 that I purchased new and am thrilled with the features it came with.
Good tips, thank you! I might add: 1) what tooling does it come with, if any? (you can spend more on tooling than the lathe) 2) does it include a steady and/or follow rest? 3) coolant capabilities, if any? 4) change gears, if any? 5) original spare parts, if any?
Some great points Joe. When you mentioned the large Chuck gap bed you worked on it brought back memories for me, I worked on a similar machine when I was an apprentice and I managed to knock out 4 of my teeth with the Chuck key. I had to get used to false teeth.
My first lathe was an almost unused South Bend 9A. Didn’t know at the time, but you can’t get into as much trouble since the belt will slip or the thing will just stall. Seemed easier to learn on.
I got a Sherline 5 years ago and have yet to need more. I want more, but NEED... not yet. Love your videos!!! By the way, 2021 to 2022 I was very sick and watched ALL your videos. Many 2 or 3 times. I am on the other side of that and you helped me through in a small way. Thank you.
Hi Joe, At the end you mentioned about buying a little larger, well when I bought my Micro Mark 7X12 about 23 years ago wish I had just a bit bigger lathe. I did buy the 14" lathe bed kit from Little Machine Shop when they first offered it in 2004. I really wanted a 9X20 size, but didn't have the room for one. If I had the room I probably would have bought a new Grizzly G4003G lathe. Maybe one day when I have a garage to use as a shop. You and the family stay safe.
I am using a VFD for my 3 phase 3 hp lathe. Home workshop. I went the older lathe route. LeBlond Regal 13 x 30, 1960 model. Another thing to mention is if the cross slide is diameter or radius reduction. Mine is diameter reduction. It also has a travel dial on it. I presently do not have a DRO on it. Future purchase. I am a newbie. The guy I purchased the lathe recommended to use the change gears instead of the VFD for speed changes so as to have even wear on all the gears and not rely on just one gear. So I keep the VFD at 60 hz. Seems like really good advice.
Buy the largest quality machine you can afford/need, if you lose quality going a size up, then get the smaller quality one. I initially bought a Sherline lathe 3x8 and got a bunch of tooling for it. The reason I got it was so I could use it on a sailboat. Need a bolt or nut? Well, just make one. It turned out cheaper and lighter to carry raw stock to cover most emergencies than the huge array of parts. Mainly because it was an older boat, built in England sailed to the USA, and here for decades. So basically BSP, Whitworth, metric and US standards all over the place. Try getting parts for that in bronze or 316 while traveling around! I eventually settled down into a house and have the boat 100 feet away, so figured I'd get a bigger lathe. Biggest mistake I ever made purchase wise: the Vevor MSX716. That thing needed months of work to be able to do anything. I mainly got it for the large spindle as the Sherline is 3/8". I still have it, but I spent too much time and money trying to fix something that was doomed from the start. When your new lathe bed has a 40 thou tapered over 16 inches, you just have to wonder what you bought. Gave up using it for everything except if I needed that spindle size. Trust me, that 1 1/4" won't make you happy... Recently I came across an old 1961 South Bend 9A toolroom UD (cabinet with three drawers and motor inside cabinet) really cheap with tooling and a hardened bed. Took about 2 months playing with it to get it to where I like it, but it was up and running of 110V driving a 1.5hp three phase motor the same day I got it home. Now that it's cleaned up, lubed up and fixed up, it is my go to lathe. It just does anything I ask of it and it does it without stress or surprises. It has the 3C collets, 3 jaw, 4 independent Jaw, steady rest and a bunch of face plates with tooling and a QCTP. I love using it. Moral of my story, Sherline is a great lathe, but small. It does however do really good small precision work. The Vevor is junk no matter how much I spend on it or work on it. The South Bend is a great quality machine that can be brought back to near new or new performance easily and cheaply. It does precision work, and bigger work. It's limitation is the spindle, but so far it hasn't affected me as it came with a telescopic steady rest. I was really happy with both of my quality lathes and the size difference is enormous. I was completely unhappy with the Vevor and it in "theory" could have done almost everything I wanted. In practice however it was not capable. Sorry about the length of the post, I figured my experience may help someone else.
When I moved into my current house, the very first purchase I made for my 40x80 shop was an electric forklift. 3k capacity, it makes it simple to own machinery. I can easily load/unload Bridgeports and lathes. It also helps when I want to sell a machine, I can advertise to potential sellers that I will load for free onto their trailer.
I just bought my first lathe, a lion 16x60 (4300 lbs), its a 6hp machine, went with an American rotary 20hp converter for extra headroom for other equipment if i get it. i had it delivered to a buddy of mines shop because I wasn't home to receive it at the time, we are gonna move it into my garage tomorrow, i'm sure its gonna be interesting
I got a junker. Clapped out in every way and missing all the gears. Perfect for me, because I don't really need a lathe but I wanted one anyway, so now the lathe is the project. Trying to make parts on it for itself. That face plant right into the learning curve is what I like! I think I paid $300 or so, but have probably spent 10 times that in acquiring tools and parts I 'need' since.
I'd go for a Dickson (or quality clone) quick-change toolpost. And decide whether you want principally to cut imperial or metric threads. While most lathes can cut both, and some like my Harrison have dual calibrated dials, you only get one leadscrew. If it's metric, then you cannot disengage it for Imperial threads and vice versa.
I use a Multifix tool holder on my 14x40 lathe. These holders are very common. What I like is the possibility to go very fast to an angel in 9 degrees increment.
I would add that a foot brake is a necessary option too. Stomp on it and everything stops immediately. EVERYTHING! I'll add too. Been a machinist for 30+ years. It is just my opinion. The lathe is the most dangerous piece of equipment one can own. Not that a mill isn't but the shear mass of what is turning is inherently dangerous. The lathe demands respect and rightly so, as do ALL machine shop tools. Extra diligence in my book. All other aspects of bullet points in your presentation are spot on. Well done Joe.
@cyclingbutterbean; a great idea that i saw, related to a brake, is a disc brake on the chuck, itself, to prevent the chuck from spinning off the spindle during an emergency stop...a bicycle disc brake, set up to activate, along with the drive motor stop.
My first lathe was a 10x22 , biggest I was able to afford. I don’t dread getting it made some good parts, 5 years later 13x40 love it , a lot more money, but will always respect the knowledge knowledge I got out of the original one thanks
At work We have 2 Colchester 15" manual lathe. one has a Aloris Tool Post the othe is Dorian CXA tool post 😊 (they are interchangable as far as tool holders are concerned. one Is Variable speed w/ taper attachment the othe is Gear Drive almost identical to the one you show.both have a 2.125 bore and D6 spindle nose. everything you mentioned is "Spot-On" when shopping for a lathe.
Joe says to have a good air supply. Remember, it's for blowing chips off the work piece, not for cleaning your machine with. I rebuild machines, you won't believe all the damage caused from embedded chips in places that causes wear to the bed ways and cross slide from the use of compressed air to clean machines with. Please excuse my rant. Good points taken for purchasing used machines, especially lathes.
I have the Colchester Student 1800 with the 40" between centres gap bed with Dickson QCTP, which I believe was branded as Clausing in the US, it sits in the right hand corner of my workshop so I can run longer lengths through the headstock. I started with a Myford ML7 and worked my way up, same with my Mill I have a Bridgeport with varispeed head after working up from a smaller one. I have a rare German Biechle maulti axis die miller that I picked up for scrap money, which luckily came with 34 collets of varying sizes. I don't have a large workshop, but with some forethought about positioning it all works, I am fortunate to have 3 phase power, though my Biechle I converted to single phase and my surface grinder and saw are single phase anyway. A good solid concrete floor is a must for any heavy machines like these, and a good machinists precision level to set them up with.
Thanks for the video Joe, I recently purchased two Monarch lathes manufactured in 1954 and 1957 the designated 1354 swings 21.5" inches over the ways and 13" over the cross slide the 1857 swings 24.5 over the ways and 18" over the cross slide, They are the easiest lathes to run that I have used and still very accurate and rigid even at 70 years old. All the best Eric
I started on a emco 5, then moved up to a delta Rockwell 1160. Worked ok but i was doing far to heavy of work on it so i sold it and bought a new GML-2060. Buying used would only save me a couple grand so i figured why not go new. I got lucky and it only cost me $4000 to get 3 phase put into my shop. Currently I'm saving up for a Dorian quadra tool post. For my needs it seems to be the best fit. Wish i had splurged and gotten the 5c closer when i bought it, but live and learn. Love your content, and look forward to your next video.
Joe, I've waiting for this video. I bought a 1988 9x20 lathe from Tiawan no parts available. So I'm DIYing it all. A follow up video for fools like me would be great.
Joe, during the past years, I really enjoyed your project kits. After 44yrs in the machinery field, I was looking for a hobby. It took nearly 2yrs and watched a load of ytube videos. My shop is in my basement, and the temperatures are stable. My Lathe size is 11/30 VFD unit provides a 3-phase mtr. Your recent video about buying a Lathe was very helpful for individuals who want one. Once again Joe, Keith is saying--it was a great video 😁...
I have a 1340 lathe and am completely happy with it except for one thing I wish I had thought of when I bought it. If I could have a do over I would buy a model that has the quick change gear box gears in an oil bath. Mine are open and need to be hand lubricated which is a pain. Just something else to consider before laying down the cash. Love your videos Joe. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Worth noting that if you're on a tight budget, you don't need a quick change tool post right off the bat. Whatever the lathe comes with, be it a 4-way or even a lantern/rocker style is perfectly adequate. Use it for a few months or a year, until you can afford (or even build) a fancy-schmancy QCTP. They're very adaptable, and can be readily fitted to almost any lathe.
Also, if the lathe has change gears instead of a gearbox, make sure that none of the gears are missing or you'll have to either buy or make them. Check to see if there are extra chucks, collets, steady & follow rests, toolholders, cutting tools, gears, etc., that go with the lathe.
I take on fun machining projects to not lose some of my groove, so my project type needs to be limited. Basically small end of PM engineering projects, garden railroad train parts and pocket watch repair. I went with Sherline and have been very happy. They are US made, I can work on the kitchen counter, and then put them away in the cupboard. If someone is first starting out, they are likely going to crash the machine at some point. Having the motor not be as strong as the tools can be helpful with my kids, although they've been good so far.
You hit on so many great points here, I wish this video existed when I first started out and was buying my Lathe. Spindle bore can't be sterssed enough depending on what you plan on using the lathe for. All your videos have a ton of great information, Thanks for them all. DEEZ.
Great info Joe. I thought I could get by with a mini lathe about 10 years ago. For what they are, they do fine. Clickspring proves that. But... for what I needed, want? same thing right :) there was no getting by.
I bought and use a frequency drive, single phase input, 3 phase output. 3HP and costs about $200. I had to do a little wiring to get it operational, the engage lever closes a circuit in the frequency drive, have full functionality, both forward and reverse. When engaging, it ramps slowly vrs the instant 0-60. I've run for many hours over past years and works perfectly. Additionally I can ramp the frequency down from 60hz down. Best of both worlds, gear drive for maximum torque and ability to slow down even further if ever needed. Have a Sharp 1440.
Other things to check- -is there separate feed to the carriage for turning, or do you have to use the screw-cutting feed? -does it have power cross-feed? -DRO? -manual gear change or gearbox? -variable speed (electronic speed control)? I stick with a 4way toolpost- if you do not switch tools often, and use insert tooling (so fixed height), this can be as fast or even faster. Four tools in a couple of seconds, and more in about 10- I machine a packer that matches the bit height for each tool. You can save a great deal of money. Plus, you can change the tool angle without losing index.
Needing a lathe for an automotive shop where you never know whats going to show up I bought a more or less junk mashine just to get started. Bear in mind I had never stood behind a lathe in my life. This allowed me to practice, breake things and gather experience. After a couple of years stumbelung along I knew pretty well what I needed and bought a decent mashine that suits my needs. I did the same with the mill I bought later. One thing, when buying a mill or lathe try and get as many tool with the mashine as possible because these things add up massively$ with any luck you can carry the tools on to the next mashine you buy and save mony that way. By the way, it was no problem at all to resell the first mashines I bought as they were cheap in the first case.
In terms of size it’s difficult to decide because what you initially thought you were going to make with it can often change with time. Some people suggest buying the biggest lathe that you have the budget and room for but I think that’s poor advice. You might technically be able to make watch parts on a giant lathe but it won’t be fun. If you can only have one machine for everything my own advice would be something with a swing between ten and thirteen inches. I have a 12 X 36 a have found it to be small enough for very small parts while large enough for bigger projects. Also, if like me you’re getting up in age you need to consider that the weight of things like chucks and steadies goes up significantly with even small increases in swing size. Also, a DRO on a lathe may not be a necessity but I’d hate to go back to not having one.
My first lathe when I was 14 was a Cadillac from India , about a 10x32 with the famous EZ-Strip plastic gears.The nameplate on the headstock had the name ''Cadillac'' on it in the exact same style of script as on a Cadillac car and in gold letters! Very classy!
Read all the comments and agree with most , but I’m perfectly happy with my 1950 10in Logan . There have been a few times I would like to have a bigger one but other than having a threaded chuck it does about 98% of the things I need to do 😉.
Static converters are a thing of the past thankfully, and have been replaced by inverters. These are the way to go, as they allow full speed control from zero to whatever you feel safe with, and motor reversing. As far as tool holders go, multifix is the best I’ve ever seen, but if you’re just a hobbyist, it doesn’t justify the cost, part of the fun is setting up.
Excellent video. Your first lathe can be a real experience drinking from the hydrant. I wound up buying and selling some lathes. I wound up getting a hardinge HLV at auction which was my main lathe for a while. Then I wound up with a monarch 10EE from another auction. I loved both lathes. Unfortunately I had to sell off my Hardinge to cover a property note on my new property on which I am building a shop. The issue I have with the monarch is that it runs on a DC motor..... so it takes single phase in but it uses a TUBE BASED motor control circuit. The lathe runs smooth as a baby's rear end but those tubes can be a real problem if they go south. If your a gun smith, you need to know that you will eventually need to chamber a barrel. Long heavy headstocks make this difficult. The old 9 in and 10 in south bends were some of the best machines for doing this type of work. A heavy ten south bend often has the bed capacity to handle barrel work while the monarch 10EE and Hardinge tend to be to short for this type of work. The monarch requires special spiders to hold your work through the head stock for doing chamber work. I was forced recently to make some motor control parts for the Hardinge using a cheap chinese lathe. While not as precise and polished, I was able to perform accurate professional work on it meaning that a cheap asian lathe can actually function if you have the skills to run it. I am at a point where I can just about use any lathe without issue. I would also ask if the tooling comes with the lathe. You can spend a fortune on tooling if you buy a bargain lathe that has been stripped.
Hey Joe, Great video. I found it interesting that you didn't speak to any particular brand or country of origin or otherwise what to look for quality wise. I love your lathe and wish it was in my budget. I bought a used Acra Turn 1440, which is the same as a Jet. It's an import machine for sure but still pretty good in my opinion. It's very heavy and runs really smooth but it cut a taper and the tail stock was pretty well out of wac. I was able to spend lots of time and got both of those issues pretty well squared away. Now it cuts nicely and I saved a bundle. I've had it for around 8 months and have probably tinkered with it getting it squared away more than I have used it to make things. It's all good. Time tinkering in the shop is great! Thanks again for all the great content!
Hello Mr Pie. Good video. I might add something as I just purchased a brand new lathe from PM. STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE LATHES!! I just spent 11k for a 1440 in which I thought would be a fairly well built machine but I have had nothing but trouble and by the looks in some other forums so are others. Bad castings, terribly drilled holes, bad oil leaks, etc. PM has decided to not stock parts for them and had I known this I would have probably saved a bit more and went Taiwanese. It is 2-3 months for any fix on this and now I am scared to death when the warranty runs out I am scr@@$%. Taiwanese lathes are a little more $$ (actually a lot more) but they are made way differently and I believe the support is there. I really wanted to purchase a Kent or name brand but the $$ was just not feasible for what I am doing and keep in mind when you purchase a lathe like that you have to purchase everything to go with it like a 4 jaw or steady rest etc. Be very cautious and look for over 1yr warranty. If you hear or feel something is not right then make it known. Just do some serious shopping before you purchase if your buying new. Not trying to bash anyone here but 11K for a lathe is in my mind still a bit of money so just watch out. If I would have had time I would have purchased used and rehabbed it but I just don't have that kind of time. Question about something you touched on, how do you know if you can adapt a tapper attachment to your lathe? Can any lathe be adapted for this and in your years have you had a great need for one? Seems like a bit of time to move the tail stock??
Can't speak about the new ones. I have an older one.90's model from a hobbyist , so no production or abuse. Well made. Accurate. Parts still available when I last needed something.
I love having 5C collets. Can't beat that. My machine is just a toy, Atlas 10", but that sucker kicks some serious ass. If you plan on doing "work" I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 10". If you do, your collet options are limited. I've been using the Chinese collet closer for 6 years, and it works, although the closing surface needs re-ground now. Bought the Sjogren speed chuck, haven't mounted it yet, but it will not fit on a 6" machine. So size of work and options are really critical. As soon as you start working, you will probably outgrow your machine! It's a paradox we have to live with.
It’s funny, but while I’ve got a huge number of them, I really dislike 5-c collets, C type collets and r-8 collets have to be the worst collets ever designed. I use ER-40 collets for both the lathe and mill.
The best advice I got about a lathe was to figure out what features and size lathe I needed, and then find a way to buy something 1 size bigger. I ended up with a Taiwanese Precision Mathews gunsmithing lathe, expensive but very worth it. Features I required: separate feed and threading lead screws (this is essential on import machines). Steady and follow rests. D-Style headstock. Reverse (Don't talk yourself out of this and buy a junky Grizzly without it). Feed and speed gear box (otherwise you have to swap gears to change the speed). Things I really wanted: Threading gauge (expensive on a metric lathe, so get an Imperial lathe). Large through bore. Variable speed (I got the 3phase option, and added a slow button to jog the part).
I prefer the Dorian quick change tool posts., I had an Aloris , changed to Dorian when I got a second machine and found the repeatability to my liking.
Great video Joe, and you made a lot of relevant points. Particularly regarding the lathe's capacity, and the spindle bore. I think a quick change tool post is a 'must have'......After using one, a four way tool post seems almost medieval! I have the 1530 bigger brother to your lathe, which are branded Colchester here in the UK. I bought mine 15 years ago, as a replacement for my ancient Colchester 1225. At first I thought it was a trifle too large for my requirements, but that soon changed. Having a 2&1/8" spindle bore is so useful. The ability to stick a 2" bar in and get on with it, as opposed to chopping said bar into shorter pieces is priceless, and being a gap bed I regularly use it to skim the disc faces of motorbike wheels if they're corroded. Mine came with a Dickson quick change tool post, plenty of holders, and lots of other accessories, like a face plate, and a four jaw chuck. The only downside is that having a 5.5kw motor it's a trifle costly to run. Cheers.
I would say that sounds like an excellent guide to newcomers to lathes. The only thing that I would add to this is if you are doing threading, how often are you going to be changing thread types? Some lathes require gear changes in order to change a variety of different sizes, where some are fairly simple and only require a change for a few specialties or changing from metric to standard.
Some must have features on my next lathe purchase, discovered from limiting shortcomings of my current lathe - spindle speed range at least 100-2200 rpm, min. threading range covering 5 to 90 TPI and similar range in metric, reverse feed and threading, cam lock spindle, available collet chuck, compound travel min. 4.5".
you will never find one that does 17TPI, or 21TPI... or list it, anyway. can cut anything if you know the gear ratios (even if you have to 3d print the odd gear?) gas fittings are really annoying with their proprietary threads... and wormgears or multi-starts are another one where knowing ratios helps.
I just recently acquired a 1942 Monarch 10EE. Using a single to 3 phase vfd to power and a 110 drop for contols (for now) just waiting on a tool holder to drop some chips. Then gonna go over it.
My last lathe was a 1969 Colchester 15 x 50 with a taper attachment, what a machine. It came with a 7 1/2hp 3ph motor, switched it out for a 5hp single ph.
I like the Multifix style of Tool Posts like the kind pewetools offers rather than the Aloris style, but both will work regardless and ultimately is comes down to preference, your work flow and how you're going to use them. Great video will a wealth of good info, thanks Joe. 👍👍
Way too late for me, Joe! 🤣 Started with an HF 7x10 mini-lathe... in 2008. I figured out that I desperately needed a lathe, and figured I needed to learn more about them. At that time, it had been 35 years since I'd last used a lathe. Got 5 lathes, now. 4 milling machines, 3 drill presses... Hi! My name is Bill, and I'm a toolohaulic!
@@orangetruckman What, this isn't like Pokemon? Gotta catch them all? 😁 I have let a few go, over the years. There was an 8' bed SB 13" in good shape, and decently tooled, some years back, for only $1000... Not too long after I bought the HF7x10. It was a stretch to afford that, and $1000 was way out of reach. At my level of skill then, the HF was too much machine for me. But I did get better.😉
Those clausing Colchesters are quite rare in the UK where they were made but the base model Student is very common but has a screw on chuck unfortunately.
I was turning on a lathe 3/4" pins. A taper on each end of pieces about 5" long. High speed on and off hours on end. One day the chuck fell off. Tapered nose with a keyway. The inertia of the clamp nut ring simply spat the chuck off. It dropped onto the bed and eventually stopped after quite some time. Luckily the jaws were within the body of the chuck.
I don't need imperial threading capability. I do need national threads though. Imperial is Whitworth. I'll be having none of that chip, chip cheerio stuff around here. That's for tossers.
@@1pcfred In the normal use of the term "Imperial" it means using inches instead of mm. So NC, NF, and lots of other threads that are measured in inches. # of threads per inch abv. - tpi. Metric is an easier system to use. Very few lathes can do both w/o using change gears for one or the other for at least some of the pitches. Change gears are a PIA but allow versatility. You do not want to have to used change gears for spindle speed changes. Most head stocks allow speed changes by simply moving levers while the lathe is stopped.
Nice to see You Joe! Of course You know what You're talking about. Maybe You told... Buy from a respectable, reliable company that provides spare parts, accessories, customer support etc. I went for Warco in the UK. The machines are made in China but according to Warco specs and quality demands. Warco then checks the machines before shipping. Buying from China spare parts are uncertain in a very short time. Tools quickly vanish from their pages. It looks like they make a batch of machines that sells easily but getting spare parta later? Not possible, the model is unknown. The wallet, or willingness to spend money was the final factor. What can I get for the money at stake?
A very useful video (as usual) Joe - all the points mentioned. Pleased you mentioned threading away from the chuck video. I have mentioned your video on that to so many people. (just on another matter from years ago - you did a good video on removing the engine from your Honda 750 motorcycle. Did you complete that job? )
She's done, and she's sweet. 836cc, 42mm mikuni carbs, F cam, electronic ignition, valve job, Delkevik headers and a fresh deep candy red paint job. Still breaking it in.
Multifix are a great system. Amestra or Pewe is the ones I use. Multifix or Tripan is the superior system I my book. ( I use it on my own and several at work. One is a Cazeneuve with 20hp motor)
They’re good, but’s have their limitation as well. I know people who have had them and removed the locking pins. The problem is that you normally can’t set the angle between the fixed positions. That behold ge a problem for me so I prefer my Dorians.
@melgross normally there is 2 holes for the lock pin going into the top slide. This will "open" up to new angles.. - also you can use it without the pin, and swivel as any other. I use multifix Daily, and is never limited with it .
@ that’s what I’m saying. You have to take the pin out to get fine angles. Then you have to put it back. To me, it’s just a pain. But if others like it, that’s fine.
Great rundown Joe. You didn't talk about what to look for when purchasing a used lathe as many of us have to do to get the size lathe we need for the money we have. The biggest issue I have run into checking out used lathes is wear and particularly wear in the ways. Do you have any advice in what to go over when evaluating a used lathe? I look at it in many ways the same as buying a used car.
I just got my second lathe. I found an old but brand new lathe. It’s a Jet GH1340W. Still new in the crate but has been sitting in a warehouse for 10 years. I have uncrated it but I don’t have it set up yet.
Aloris makes AXA, BXA, CXA, CA, DA, and EA toolposts, as well as a micro jewelers toolpost. They may make a 0XA for 7x12 and 9x15 layers as well. I think CEE bought a DA toolpost for their big lathe. Abom likes the Multifix style with all the splines, and IIRC CEE hates them. I started with a Taig (maybe 4"x10") that I traded a VGA monitor for, bought an Atlas/Craftsman 12"x36" that was really horrible, and would up with a Taiwanese clone of that Colchester that took about 6-8 months from Taiwan to Pittsburgh (bought it through Precision Matthews) and then finally to Seattle.
Hello Joe, nice Video like every time 🙂. I have an old (1965) Weiler LZ280 Lathe. It is equipped with a Swiss Multifix toolholder. I would recommend them. The original Holder are very expensiv, but there is a company, PeWeTools that manufctures compatible holders depending on the original Swiss specifications. They are really affordaable. At the moment I'm using 20+ toolholders, adjsted ready for work.
Hey man, timing on this video is spot on! I picked up a little "pro-sumer" grade belt drive, Jet 12x36 a while back, out of an electric motor shop. No signs of ever being crashed, doesn't look like it was hardly used. Probably never cleaned. Despite that, ways were almost perfect. In fact, I'm pretty sure it hadn't run in years, because as soon as I powered it up, the bearings started to get noisy... Now it has all new bearings throughout 😆 Ran across your video on threading in reverse, which leads to my question: I have a threaded spindle - I could imagine a Chuck coming loose off it in a heavy cut Don't really want to replace the lathes, got any suggestions for a workaround? Thanks in advance!
@@TomokosEnterprizeyeah, but that's the crux of the question: What if I want to run the spindle backwards? Hadn't thought about doing it. When I bought the lathe, then I saw Joe 's. On threading, and realized that I might want to do that...
@@billythebake Your not lost. Simply mount your tools upside down. I have never had to do that but take the time and ask around. Joe usually answers most questions pretty quick like. Don't run the spindle/chuck backwared or it may endup in your lap. Not a good thing. You can still thread backwards. Look around for a change up that will accomodate the proper mounting for the chuck. They do make them my friend. Try the folks that you bought the lathe from. Who knows eh.
To the newbies: MEMORISE THIS VIDEO, THEN RESEARCH EVERY ASPECT HE MENTIONS - IT WILL SAVE YOU FROM COSTLY MISTAKES! Good handling of a vast subject, thanks, Joe.
Some brands of older lathes have odd designs and it's very difficult to install a DRO. You might have to spend extra money to install a magnetic type of scale because clearances are smaller. Also cross slide backlash, older lathes are notorious for having a lot and sometimes the cross slide has been adjusted to a point it's worn out too much. Eventually you will want to replace it.
i use the italian rapid origional tool posts, double dovetail style , this type of connection in my opinion is one of the best, hardened throughout ,screws, etc but you;ll be crying for a while after the initial purchase,
The vast majority of what is turned is less than one metre long and eight inches in diameter . This size of lathe is most in demand and will cost a lot more. Also a nice wide crosslide with a couple of tee slots is always better and more sturdy than a narrow one with no slots.
I have a 3HP Colchester, Clausing in US. It's 3 phase runing from single phase via an inverter and runs perfectly. An advantage of the inverter is you can alter the speed without having use the gearbox, sometimes helps reduce chatter. I have a cheap chinese inverter that has proved reliable. I would say you're better off buying an old US or eurpean heavyweight than a new lathe from China. The imprtamt part is make the ways are not worn,
gibs can be sorted out easily. Buying a machine from a genuine machine shop where they are selling because they ate moving to CNC can be good as they can demonstrate the condition of ways etc.
Absolutely bang on advice Joe. I sure wish this had been available when I bought my first lathe. I fell into pretty much every single trap you mention. I hope and wish for every first timer to see this specific video. And a piece of Joe advice that sits with me every day................"Buy nice or buy twice!". Cheers and best regards.
Joe's point that you need to determine FIRST what the mission is cannot be overstated. I've said this time and time again on the forums whenever people start a thread about what's better for a first lathe, Lathe A or Lathe B.
If you don't know what you want to make, and have a generalized "I want to learn machining" goal, go buy a cheap, USED, small Chinese bench lathe. 7x14 or 8x16 will be just fine. Learn how to turn quality parts with an undersized, underpowered lathe and you'll quickly gain knowledge. Buy it used and cheap, you can sell it after a year or two, when you've gained some experience without losing a ton of money, and go buy your last lathe.
I bought several lathes, cleaned and repaired them, and sold them for a profit. Look for the lesser known brands like Sheldon instead of South Bend, and you might be surprised at how little you can get them for.
My current lathe is a Cincinnati 10x24. It weighs 1800 lbs, the bed is 9.125" across and the saddle is 18 inches long. Basically, it's the bed and saddle off a much larger lathe in a tiny footprint. It's heavy and rigid, has a 1-3/8" spindle through hole so 5c collets can be installed directly into a spindle bush.
If the lathe a person is looking at has 3 phase power required, get a VFD. This will convert the single phase to 3 phase. It also gives a lot of nice features like controlled accel and decell, variable speed. easy reversing and more. In my shop even if I have 3 phase I would still use a VDF.
All the time the teacher i get so much from you I have a book of tips N tricks and references to the video its on
We need you back mate its a long time between drinks
Big Cheers from N Q AUSTRALIA
i have a size B Chinese tool holder, Aloris knock off, works fine for the hobbyist or user with smallish pieces to work on, extra tool holders are inexpensive, the only issue is to rotate the whole thing you have to use wrench on the top nut, the handle allows you to change tool holders, i did get a new 6 inch 4 jaw chuck and had to make base plate, cast iron heavy but had NO problem
My parents taught me to buy the best that I could afford, and that waiting until you can afford something is a good thing.
My first lathe was a used combo lathe/ mill machines. It was a great way for me to decide if I would actually use one and to see what features I wanted on my next lathe. I now own a Precision Matthews 12X36 that I purchased new and am thrilled with the features it came with.
Good tips, thank you! I might add:
1) what tooling does it come with, if any? (you can spend more on tooling than the lathe)
2) does it include a steady and/or follow rest?
3) coolant capabilities, if any?
4) change gears, if any?
5) original spare parts, if any?
Some great points Joe. When you mentioned the large Chuck gap bed you worked on it brought back memories for me, I worked on a similar machine when I was an apprentice and I managed to knock out 4 of my teeth with the Chuck key. I had to get used to false teeth.
My first lathe was an almost unused South Bend 9A. Didn’t know at the time, but you can’t get into as much trouble since the belt will slip or the thing will just stall. Seemed easier to learn on.
My first lathe is an awesome Unimat with auto feed, then I jumped to a 1440. I love both!!
I got a Sherline 5 years ago and have yet to need more. I want more, but NEED... not yet. Love your videos!!! By the way, 2021 to 2022 I was very sick and watched ALL your videos. Many 2 or 3 times. I am on the other side of that and you helped me through in a small way. Thank you.
Hi Joe,
At the end you mentioned about buying a little larger, well when I bought my Micro Mark 7X12 about 23 years ago wish I had just a bit bigger lathe. I did buy the 14" lathe bed kit from Little Machine Shop when they first offered it in 2004. I really wanted a 9X20 size, but didn't have the room for one. If I had the room I probably would have bought a new Grizzly G4003G lathe. Maybe one day when I have a garage to use as a shop. You and the family stay safe.
I am using a VFD for my 3 phase 3 hp lathe. Home workshop. I went the older lathe route. LeBlond Regal 13 x 30, 1960 model. Another thing to mention is if the cross slide is diameter or radius reduction. Mine is diameter reduction. It also has a travel dial on it. I presently do not have a DRO on it. Future purchase. I am a newbie. The guy I purchased the lathe recommended to use the change gears instead of the VFD for speed changes so as to have even wear on all the gears and not rely on just one gear. So I keep the VFD at 60 hz. Seems like really good advice.
Buy the largest quality machine you can afford/need, if you lose quality going a size up, then get the smaller quality one. I initially bought a Sherline lathe 3x8 and got a bunch of tooling for it. The reason I got it was so I could use it on a sailboat. Need a bolt or nut? Well, just make one. It turned out cheaper and lighter to carry raw stock to cover most emergencies than the huge array of parts. Mainly because it was an older boat, built in England sailed to the USA, and here for decades. So basically BSP, Whitworth, metric and US standards all over the place. Try getting parts for that in bronze or 316 while traveling around!
I eventually settled down into a house and have the boat 100 feet away, so figured I'd get a bigger lathe. Biggest mistake I ever made purchase wise: the Vevor MSX716. That thing needed months of work to be able to do anything. I mainly got it for the large spindle as the Sherline is 3/8". I still have it, but I spent too much time and money trying to fix something that was doomed from the start. When your new lathe bed has a 40 thou tapered over 16 inches, you just have to wonder what you bought. Gave up using it for everything except if I needed that spindle size. Trust me, that 1 1/4" won't make you happy...
Recently I came across an old 1961 South Bend 9A toolroom UD (cabinet with three drawers and motor inside cabinet) really cheap with tooling and a hardened bed. Took about 2 months playing with it to get it to where I like it, but it was up and running of 110V driving a 1.5hp three phase motor the same day I got it home. Now that it's cleaned up, lubed up and fixed up, it is my go to lathe. It just does anything I ask of it and it does it without stress or surprises. It has the 3C collets, 3 jaw, 4 independent Jaw, steady rest and a bunch of face plates with tooling and a QCTP. I love using it.
Moral of my story, Sherline is a great lathe, but small. It does however do really good small precision work. The Vevor is junk no matter how much I spend on it or work on it. The South Bend is a great quality machine that can be brought back to near new or new performance easily and cheaply. It does precision work, and bigger work. It's limitation is the spindle, but so far it hasn't affected me as it came with a telescopic steady rest. I was really happy with both of my quality lathes and the size difference is enormous. I was completely unhappy with the Vevor and it in "theory" could have done almost everything I wanted. In practice however it was not capable.
Sorry about the length of the post, I figured my experience may help someone else.
I love that Clausing. I run one for 30 years at my job. Well, among other machines. Bridgeport mills, Prototrack mill, Haas CNC lathes and mills
Colchester.. it's a Colchester 😁🫣💪
When I moved into my current house, the very first purchase I made for my 40x80 shop was an electric forklift. 3k capacity, it makes it simple to own machinery. I can easily load/unload Bridgeports and lathes. It also helps when I want to sell a machine, I can advertise to potential sellers that I will load for free onto their trailer.
I just bought my first lathe, a lion 16x60 (4300 lbs), its a 6hp machine, went with an American rotary 20hp converter for extra headroom for other equipment if i get it. i had it delivered to a buddy of mines shop because I wasn't home to receive it at the time, we are gonna move it into my garage tomorrow, i'm sure its gonna be interesting
I got a junker. Clapped out in every way and missing all the gears. Perfect for me, because I don't really need a lathe but I wanted one anyway, so now the lathe is the project. Trying to make parts on it for itself. That face plant right into the learning curve is what I like!
I think I paid $300 or so, but have probably spent 10 times that in acquiring tools and parts I 'need' since.
Like many of us lol😂
I'd go for a Dickson (or quality clone) quick-change toolpost. And decide whether you want principally to cut imperial or metric threads. While most lathes can cut both, and some like my Harrison have dual calibrated dials, you only get one leadscrew. If it's metric, then you cannot disengage it for Imperial threads and vice versa.
I use a Multifix tool holder on my 14x40 lathe. These holders are very common. What I like is the possibility to go very fast to an angel in 9 degrees increment.
I would add that a foot brake is a necessary option too. Stomp on it and everything stops immediately. EVERYTHING! I'll add too. Been a machinist for 30+ years. It is just my opinion. The lathe is the most dangerous piece of equipment one can own. Not that a mill isn't but the shear mass of what is turning is inherently dangerous. The lathe demands respect and rightly so, as do ALL machine shop tools. Extra diligence in my book. All other aspects of bullet points in your presentation are spot on. Well done Joe.
@cyclingbutterbean;
a great idea that i saw, related to a brake, is a disc brake on the chuck, itself, to prevent the chuck from spinning off the spindle during an emergency stop...a bicycle disc brake, set up to activate, along with the drive motor stop.
Thanks Joe, I have learned so very much from you!
My first lathe was a 10x22 , biggest I was able to afford. I don’t dread getting it made some good parts, 5 years later 13x40 love it , a lot more money, but will always respect the knowledge knowledge I got out of the original one thanks
Thanks for making an awesome reference video! This will be the video I'll be forwarding to anyone asking me about a lathe.
Great video Joe for first time buyers looks like you've finished with your sons home renovations, good to see back cheers Australia.
At work We have 2 Colchester 15" manual lathe. one has a Aloris Tool Post the othe is Dorian CXA tool post 😊 (they are interchangable as far as tool holders are concerned. one Is Variable speed w/ taper attachment the othe is Gear Drive almost identical to the one you show.both have a 2.125 bore and D6 spindle nose. everything you mentioned is "Spot-On" when shopping for a lathe.
Joe says to have a good air supply. Remember, it's for blowing chips off the work piece, not for cleaning your machine with.
I rebuild machines, you won't believe all the damage caused from embedded chips in places that causes wear to the bed ways and cross slide from the use of compressed air to clean machines with. Please excuse my rant. Good points taken for purchasing used machines, especially lathes.
Thanks Joe, there is always a job that is just too big for what you have, so you always need a buddy to share with. All good advice.
That Clausing 1340 lathe brings back memories of my experience with the Colchester Master 2500 in the UK. Nice machines.
I have the Colchester Student 1800 with the 40" between centres gap bed with Dickson QCTP, which I believe was branded as Clausing in the US, it sits in the right hand corner of my workshop so I can run longer lengths through the headstock. I started with a Myford ML7 and worked my way up, same with my Mill I have a Bridgeport with varispeed head after working up from a smaller one. I have a rare German Biechle maulti axis die miller that I picked up for scrap money, which luckily came with 34 collets of varying sizes. I don't have a large workshop, but with some forethought about positioning it all works, I am fortunate to have 3 phase power, though my Biechle I converted to single phase and my surface grinder and saw are single phase anyway. A good solid concrete floor is a must for any heavy machines like these, and a good machinists precision level to set them up with.
Make your first cost the worst cost...or spend your life making it work....great advice Joe
Thanks for the video Joe,
I recently purchased two Monarch lathes manufactured in 1954 and 1957 the designated 1354 swings 21.5" inches over the ways and 13" over the cross slide the 1857 swings 24.5 over the ways and 18" over the cross slide, They are the easiest lathes to run that I have used and still very accurate and rigid even at 70 years old.
All the best
Eric
I started on a emco 5, then moved up to a delta Rockwell 1160. Worked ok but i was doing far to heavy of work on it so i sold it and bought a new GML-2060. Buying used would only save me a couple grand so i figured why not go new. I got lucky and it only cost me $4000 to get 3 phase put into my shop. Currently I'm saving up for a Dorian quadra tool post. For my needs it seems to be the best fit. Wish i had splurged and gotten the 5c closer when i bought it, but live and learn.
Love your content, and look forward to your next video.
Joe, I've waiting for this video. I bought a 1988 9x20 lathe from Tiawan no parts available. So I'm DIYing it all. A follow up video for fools like me would be great.
Joe, during the past years, I really enjoyed your project kits. After 44yrs in the machinery field, I was looking for a hobby. It took nearly 2yrs and watched a load of ytube videos. My shop is in my basement, and the temperatures are stable. My Lathe size is 11/30 VFD unit provides a 3-phase mtr. Your recent video about buying a Lathe was very helpful for individuals who want one. Once again Joe, Keith is saying--it was a great video 😁...
I can't say how many times I've had to stop and look for something I just put down and can't find right away. Loved that out take
I have the same exact lathe with a index turret and tailstock for sale. It's pretty used but still would be a good starter for someone.
I have a 1340 lathe and am completely happy with it except for one thing I wish I had thought of when I bought it. If I could have a do over I would buy a model that has the quick change gear box gears in an oil bath. Mine are open and need to be hand lubricated which is a pain. Just something else to consider before laying down the cash. Love your videos Joe. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Worth noting that if you're on a tight budget, you don't need a quick change tool post right off the bat. Whatever the lathe comes with, be it a 4-way or even a lantern/rocker style is perfectly adequate. Use it for a few months or a year, until you can afford (or even build) a fancy-schmancy QCTP. They're very adaptable, and can be readily fitted to almost any lathe.
This is true. I did exactly that, and in spite of having a QCTP, I still often find myself setting it up the old way. Just used to it, I guess.
Also, if the lathe has change gears instead of a gearbox, make sure that none of the gears are missing or you'll have to either buy or make them. Check to see if there are extra chucks, collets, steady & follow rests, toolholders, cutting tools, gears, etc., that go with the lathe.
I take on fun machining projects to not lose some of my groove, so my project type needs to be limited. Basically small end of PM engineering projects, garden railroad train parts and pocket watch repair. I went with Sherline and have been very happy. They are US made, I can work on the kitchen counter, and then put them away in the cupboard. If someone is first starting out, they are likely going to crash the machine at some point. Having the motor not be as strong as the tools can be helpful with my kids, although they've been good so far.
5C collets and clutch, I find essential. I have a Clausing 5914 12x36 with a multi fix TP
You hit on so many great points here, I wish this video existed when I first started out and was buying my Lathe. Spindle bore can't be sterssed enough depending on what you plan on using the lathe for. All your videos have a ton of great information, Thanks for them all. DEEZ.
Great info Joe. I thought I could get by with a mini lathe about 10 years ago. For what they are, they do fine. Clickspring proves that. But... for what I needed, want? same thing right :) there was no getting by.
I bought and use a frequency drive, single phase input, 3 phase output. 3HP and costs about $200. I had to do a little wiring to get it operational, the engage lever closes a circuit in the frequency drive, have full functionality, both forward and reverse. When engaging, it ramps slowly vrs the instant 0-60. I've run for many hours over past years and works perfectly. Additionally I can ramp the frequency down from 60hz down. Best of both worlds, gear drive for maximum torque and ability to slow down even further if ever needed. Have a Sharp 1440.
Other things to check-
-is there separate feed to the carriage for turning, or do you have to use the screw-cutting feed?
-does it have power cross-feed?
-DRO?
-manual gear change or gearbox?
-variable speed (electronic speed control)?
I stick with a 4way toolpost- if you do not switch tools often, and use insert tooling (so fixed height), this can be as fast or even faster. Four tools in a couple of seconds, and more in about 10- I machine a packer that matches the bit height for each tool. You can save a great deal of money. Plus, you can change the tool angle without losing index.
Good to see you again, Joe. Great checklist. Keep well.
Thank you for the information ,I'm exploring the idea of getting into milling thank you .
Good video Mr Joe pie,,thanks for your time
Always love your videos! Very helpful!!!!
Needing a lathe for an automotive shop where you never know whats going to show up I bought a more or less junk mashine just to get started. Bear in mind I had never stood behind a lathe in my life. This allowed me to practice, breake things and gather experience. After a couple of years stumbelung along I knew pretty well what I needed and bought a decent mashine that suits my needs. I did the same with the mill I bought later. One thing, when buying a mill or lathe try and get as many tool with the mashine as possible because these things add up massively$ with any luck you can carry the tools on to the next mashine you buy and save mony that way. By the way, it was no problem at all to resell the first mashines I bought as they were cheap in the first case.
In terms of size it’s difficult to decide because what you initially thought you were going to make with it can often change with time. Some people suggest buying the biggest lathe that you have the budget and room for but I think that’s poor advice. You might technically be able to make watch parts on a giant lathe but it won’t be fun. If you can only have one machine for everything my own advice would be something with a swing between ten and thirteen inches. I have a 12 X 36 a have found it to be small enough for very small parts while large enough for bigger projects. Also, if like me you’re getting up in age you need to consider that the weight of things like chucks and steadies goes up significantly with even small increases in swing size. Also, a DRO on a lathe may not be a necessity but I’d hate to go back to not having one.
My first lathe when I was 14 was a Cadillac from India , about a 10x32 with the famous EZ-Strip plastic gears.The nameplate on the headstock had the name ''Cadillac'' on it in the exact same style of script as on a Cadillac car and in gold letters! Very classy!
A small 3-phase machine can be run on single-phase power using a VFD. This also gives you instant and infinite speed control which is quite handy.
It better be a new, or recent machine. Otherwise old three phase motors can overheat when running the motor at low speed.
Read all the comments and agree with most , but I’m perfectly happy with my 1950 10in Logan . There have been a few times I would like to have a bigger one but other than having a threaded chuck it does about 98% of the things I need to do 😉.
Thank you, Joe. Good to see you again.
Static converters are a thing of the past thankfully, and have been replaced by inverters. These are the way to go, as they allow full speed control from zero to whatever you feel safe with, and motor reversing. As far as tool holders go, multifix is the best I’ve ever seen, but if you’re just a hobbyist, it doesn’t justify the cost, part of the fun is setting up.
Question for UK viewers.
Does anyone have any experience of (and opinions on) Chester Hobby Machines?
Excellent video. Your first lathe can be a real experience drinking from the hydrant. I wound up buying and selling some lathes. I wound up getting a hardinge HLV at auction which was my main lathe for a while. Then I wound up with a monarch 10EE from another auction. I loved both lathes. Unfortunately I had to sell off my Hardinge to cover a property note on my new property on which I am building a shop. The issue I have with the monarch is that it runs on a DC motor..... so it takes single phase in but it uses a TUBE BASED motor control circuit. The lathe runs smooth as a baby's rear end but those tubes can be a real problem if they go south. If your a gun smith, you need to know that you will eventually need to chamber a barrel. Long heavy headstocks make this difficult. The old 9 in and 10 in south bends were some of the best machines for doing this type of work. A heavy ten south bend often has the bed capacity to handle barrel work while the monarch 10EE and Hardinge tend to be to short for this type of work. The monarch requires special spiders to hold your work through the head stock for doing chamber work. I was forced recently to make some motor control parts for the Hardinge using a cheap chinese lathe. While not as precise and polished, I was able to perform accurate professional work on it meaning that a cheap asian lathe can actually function if you have the skills to run it. I am at a point where I can just about use any lathe without issue. I would also ask if the tooling comes with the lathe. You can spend a fortune on tooling if you buy a bargain lathe that has been stripped.
Your channel is still one of the best sources of machining information out there.
I Appreciate that. Thanks.
Hey Joe, Great video. I found it interesting that you didn't speak to any particular brand or country of origin or otherwise what to look for quality wise. I love your lathe and wish it was in my budget. I bought a used Acra Turn 1440, which is the same as a Jet. It's an import machine for sure but still pretty good in my opinion. It's very heavy and runs really smooth but it cut a taper and the tail stock was pretty well out of wac. I was able to spend lots of time and got both of those issues pretty well squared away. Now it cuts nicely and I saved a bundle. I've had it for around 8 months and have probably tinkered with it getting it squared away more than I have used it to make things. It's all good. Time tinkering in the shop is great!
Thanks again for all the great content!
Great video joe, a fantastic video for the newbies. Keep up the great work.
Hello Mr Pie. Good video.
I might add something as I just purchased a brand new lathe from PM. STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE LATHES!! I just spent 11k for a 1440 in which I thought would be a fairly well built machine but I have had nothing but trouble and by the looks in some other forums so are others. Bad castings, terribly drilled holes, bad oil leaks, etc. PM has decided to not stock parts for them and had I known this I would have probably saved a bit more and went Taiwanese. It is 2-3 months for any fix on this and now I am scared to death when the warranty runs out I am scr@@$%.
Taiwanese lathes are a little more $$ (actually a lot more) but they are made way differently and I believe the support is there. I really wanted to purchase a Kent or name brand but the $$ was just not feasible for what I am doing and keep in mind when you purchase a lathe like that you have to purchase everything to go with it like a 4 jaw or steady rest etc. Be very cautious and look for over 1yr warranty. If you hear or feel something is not right then make it known. Just do some serious shopping before you purchase if your buying new. Not trying to bash anyone here but 11K for a lathe is in my mind still a bit of money so just watch out. If I would have had time I would have purchased used and rehabbed it but I just don't have that kind of time.
Question about something you touched on, how do you know if you can adapt a tapper attachment to your lathe? Can any lathe be adapted for this and in your years have you had a great need for one? Seems like a bit of time to move the tail stock??
Can't speak about the new ones. I have an older one.90's model from a hobbyist , so no production or abuse. Well made. Accurate. Parts still available when I last needed something.
I love having 5C collets. Can't beat that. My machine is just a toy, Atlas 10", but that sucker kicks some serious ass. If you plan on doing "work" I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 10". If you do, your collet options are limited.
I've been using the Chinese collet closer for 6 years, and it works, although the closing surface needs re-ground now.
Bought the Sjogren speed chuck, haven't mounted it yet, but it will not fit on a 6" machine. So size of work and options are really critical. As soon as you start working, you will probably outgrow your machine! It's a paradox we have to live with.
It’s funny, but while I’ve got a huge number of them, I really dislike 5-c collets, C type collets and r-8 collets have to be the worst collets ever designed. I use ER-40 collets for both the lathe and mill.
The best advice I got about a lathe was to figure out what features and size lathe I needed, and then find a way to buy something 1 size bigger.
I ended up with a Taiwanese Precision Mathews gunsmithing lathe, expensive but very worth it.
Features I required:
separate feed and threading lead screws (this is essential on import machines).
Steady and follow rests.
D-Style headstock.
Reverse (Don't talk yourself out of this and buy a junky Grizzly without it).
Feed and speed gear box (otherwise you have to swap gears to change the speed).
Things I really wanted:
Threading gauge (expensive on a metric lathe, so get an Imperial lathe).
Large through bore.
Variable speed (I got the 3phase option, and added a slow button to jog the part).
I prefer the Dorian quick change tool posts., I had an Aloris , changed to Dorian when I got a second machine and found the repeatability to my liking.
I prefer them as well.
Great video Joe, and you made a lot of relevant points. Particularly regarding the lathe's capacity, and the spindle bore. I think a quick change tool post is a 'must have'......After using one, a four way tool post seems almost medieval!
I have the 1530 bigger brother to your lathe, which are branded Colchester here in the UK. I bought mine 15 years ago, as a replacement for my ancient Colchester 1225. At first I thought it was a trifle too large for my requirements, but that soon changed. Having a 2&1/8" spindle bore is so useful. The ability to stick a 2" bar in and get on with it, as opposed to chopping said bar into shorter pieces is priceless, and being a gap bed I regularly use it to skim the disc faces of motorbike wheels if they're corroded.
Mine came with a Dickson quick change tool post, plenty of holders, and lots of other accessories, like a face plate, and a four jaw chuck. The only downside is that having a 5.5kw motor it's a trifle costly to run.
Cheers.
I love the 15" model. Ran one for many years.
I did my college years on a brand new Colchester Triumph 2000 - loved it !
I would say that sounds like an excellent guide to newcomers to lathes. The only thing that I would add to this is if you are doing threading, how often are you going to be changing thread types? Some lathes require gear changes in order to change a variety of different sizes, where some are fairly simple and only require a change for a few specialties or changing from metric to standard.
I think a DRO should be pretty high on the should have list.
Some must have features on my next lathe purchase, discovered from limiting shortcomings of my current lathe - spindle speed range at least 100-2200 rpm, min. threading range covering 5 to 90 TPI and similar range in metric, reverse feed and threading, cam lock spindle, available collet chuck, compound travel min. 4.5".
you will never find one that does 17TPI, or 21TPI... or list it, anyway. can cut anything if you know the gear ratios (even if you have to 3d print the odd gear?) gas fittings are really annoying with their proprietary threads... and wormgears or multi-starts are another one where knowing ratios helps.
Great job.
I have the same lathe in a 15-50.
Good machine, i love it!
Parts are very expensive
Love the 15" version. Ran one for many years.
I just recently acquired a 1942 Monarch 10EE. Using a single to 3 phase vfd to power and a 110 drop for contols (for now) just waiting on a tool holder to drop some chips. Then gonna go over it.
The VFD is my preferred method of running a 3 phase machine from single phase supply.
It worked out really well. I was debating making a rotery phase converter. (Might in the future)
Thanks for the information.
My last lathe was a 1969 Colchester 15 x 50 with a taper attachment, what a machine. It came with a 7 1/2hp 3ph motor, switched it out for a 5hp single ph.
Great lathe. Just could do with larger spindle bore.
I like the Multifix style of Tool Posts like the kind pewetools offers rather than the Aloris style, but both will work regardless and ultimately is comes down to preference, your work flow and how you're going to use them.
Great video will a wealth of good info, thanks Joe. 👍👍
Way too late for me, Joe! 🤣 Started with an HF 7x10 mini-lathe... in 2008. I figured out that I desperately needed a lathe, and figured I needed to learn more about them. At that time, it had been 35 years since I'd last used a lathe. Got 5 lathes, now. 4 milling machines, 3 drill presses... Hi! My name is Bill, and I'm a toolohaulic!
Hey Bill, leave some for us! 😜
@@orangetruckman What, this isn't like Pokemon? Gotta catch them all? 😁 I have let a few go, over the years. There was an 8' bed SB 13" in good shape, and decently tooled, some years back, for only $1000... Not too long after I bought the HF7x10. It was a stretch to afford that, and $1000 was way out of reach. At my level of skill then, the HF was too much machine for me. But I did get better.😉
Those clausing Colchesters are quite rare in the UK where they were made but the base model Student is very common but has a screw on chuck unfortunately.
I like this lathe.
I was turning on a lathe 3/4" pins. A taper on each end of pieces about 5" long. High speed on and off hours on end. One day the chuck fell off. Tapered nose with a keyway. The inertia of the clamp nut ring simply spat the chuck off. It dropped onto the bed and eventually stopped after quite some time. Luckily the jaws were within the body of the chuck.
Ouch said the bed😂😂😂
A steady rest, follow rest, collet closer and DRO are also good to have as well as
imperial and metric threading capability.
I don't need imperial threading capability. I do need national threads though. Imperial is Whitworth. I'll be having none of that chip, chip cheerio stuff around here. That's for tossers.
@@1pcfred In the normal use of the term "Imperial" it means using inches instead of mm. So NC, NF, and lots of other threads that are measured in inches. # of threads per inch abv. - tpi. Metric is an easier system to use. Very few lathes can do both w/o using change gears for one or the other for at least some of the pitches. Change gears are a PIA but allow versatility. You do not want to have to used change gears for spindle speed changes. Most head stocks allow speed changes by simply moving levers while the lathe is stopped.
@@larryschweitzer4904 if there's one thing I've divined from life it is that nothing worthwhile is ever particularly easy.
Nice to see You Joe!
Of course You know what You're talking about.
Maybe You told... Buy from a respectable, reliable company that provides spare parts, accessories, customer support etc. I went for Warco in the UK. The machines are made in China but according to Warco specs and quality demands. Warco then checks the machines before shipping.
Buying from China spare parts are uncertain in a very short time. Tools quickly vanish from their pages. It looks like they make a batch of machines that sells easily but getting spare parta later? Not possible, the model is unknown.
The wallet, or willingness to spend money was the final factor. What can I get for the money at stake?
A very useful video (as usual) Joe - all the points mentioned. Pleased you mentioned threading away from the chuck video. I have mentioned your video on that to so many people. (just on another matter from years ago - you did a good video on removing the engine from your Honda 750 motorcycle. Did you complete that job? )
She's done, and she's sweet. 836cc, 42mm mikuni carbs, F cam, electronic ignition, valve job, Delkevik headers and a fresh deep candy red paint job. Still breaking it in.
What are your thoughts on the Multifix Tool posts (like Abom uses) with their 9 degree steps?
Multifix are a great system. Amestra or Pewe is the ones I use. Multifix or Tripan is the superior system I my book. ( I use it on my own and several at work. One is a Cazeneuve with 20hp motor)
They’re good, but’s have their limitation as well. I know people who have had them and removed the locking pins. The problem is that you normally can’t set the angle between the fixed positions. That behold ge a problem for me so I prefer my Dorians.
@melgross normally there is 2 holes for the lock pin going into the top slide. This will "open" up to new angles.. - also you can use it without the pin, and swivel as any other. I use multifix Daily, and is never limited with it .
@ that’s what I’m saying. You have to take the pin out to get fine angles. Then you have to put it back. To me, it’s just a pain. But if others like it, that’s fine.
Great rundown Joe. You didn't talk about what to look for when purchasing a used lathe as many of us have to do to get the size lathe we need for the money we have. The biggest issue I have run into checking out used lathes is wear and particularly wear in the ways. Do you have any advice in what to go over when evaluating a used lathe? I look at it in many ways the same as buying a used car.
Watch the very end of the video.
Thanks Joe.
I just got my second lathe. I found an old but brand new lathe. It’s a Jet GH1340W. Still new in the crate but has been sitting in a warehouse for 10 years. I have uncrated it but I don’t have it set up yet.
Perfect advice as ust, thank you Joe
Aloris makes AXA, BXA, CXA, CA, DA, and EA toolposts, as well as a micro jewelers toolpost. They may make a 0XA for 7x12 and 9x15 layers as well.
I think CEE bought a DA toolpost for their big lathe. Abom likes the Multifix style with all the splines, and IIRC CEE hates them.
I started with a Taig (maybe 4"x10") that I traded a VGA monitor for, bought an Atlas/Craftsman 12"x36" that was really horrible, and would up with a Taiwanese clone of that Colchester that took about 6-8 months from Taiwan to Pittsburgh (bought it through Precision Matthews) and then finally to Seattle.
Hello Joe, nice Video like every time 🙂. I have an old (1965) Weiler LZ280 Lathe. It is equipped with a Swiss Multifix toolholder. I would recommend them. The original Holder are very expensiv, but there is a company, PeWeTools that manufctures compatible holders depending on the original Swiss specifications. They are really affordaable. At the moment I'm using 20+ toolholders, adjsted ready for work.
Hey man, timing on this video is spot on!
I picked up a little "pro-sumer" grade belt drive, Jet 12x36 a while back, out of an electric motor shop.
No signs of ever being crashed, doesn't look like it was hardly used. Probably never cleaned.
Despite that, ways were almost perfect.
In fact, I'm pretty sure it hadn't run in years, because as soon as I powered it up, the bearings started to get noisy...
Now it has all new bearings throughout 😆
Ran across your video on threading in reverse, which leads to my question: I have a threaded spindle - I could imagine a Chuck coming loose off it in a heavy cut
Don't really want to replace the lathes, got any suggestions for a workaround?
Thanks in advance!
As long as the spindle/chuck does NOT turn in reverse/backwards there is no worries. The energy of tooling will keep it on nice and tight.
@@TomokosEnterprizeyeah, but that's the crux of the question: What if I want to run the spindle backwards?
Hadn't thought about doing it. When I bought the lathe, then I saw Joe 's. On threading, and realized that I might want to do that...
@@billythebake Your not lost. Simply mount your tools upside down. I have never had to do that but take the time and ask around. Joe usually answers most questions pretty quick like. Don't run the spindle/chuck backwared or it may endup in your lap. Not a good thing. You can still thread backwards. Look around for a change up that will accomodate the proper mounting for the chuck. They do make them my friend. Try the folks that you bought the lathe from. Who knows eh.
To the newbies: MEMORISE THIS VIDEO, THEN RESEARCH EVERY ASPECT HE MENTIONS - IT WILL SAVE YOU FROM COSTLY MISTAKES!
Good handling of a vast subject, thanks, Joe.
B.t.w. Joe channel one of the best lathe/mill educational channels on youtube. A real gem!
Great video Joe like always but most important your ok
Blessings
Also consider the swing over the compound and cross slide. That can be several inches smaller.
True
👍🏻 love a Clausing!
I'd add to be careful of something freshly painted or that looks too good. Probably trying to turd polish.
A leadscrew half nut is a must no matter what lathe you go for!
Some brands of older lathes have odd designs and it's very difficult to install a DRO. You might have to spend extra money to install a magnetic type of scale because clearances are smaller. Also cross slide backlash, older lathes are notorious for having a lot and sometimes the cross slide has been adjusted to a point it's worn out too much. Eventually you will want to replace it.
Thanks Mr Pie
i use the italian rapid origional tool posts, double dovetail style , this type of connection in my opinion is one of the best, hardened throughout ,screws, etc but you;ll be crying for a while after the initial purchase,
Joe. You didn’t mention AC drives for converting from 3 phase. What’s your opinion on such?
3 phase is ac
The vast majority of what is turned is less than one metre long and eight inches in diameter . This size of lathe is most in demand and will cost a lot more. Also a nice wide crosslide with a couple of tee slots is always better and more sturdy than a narrow one with no slots.