THANK YOU SO MUCH! This saved me countless hours and dollars- if you are experiencing high idle issues with your Honda, give this a try before taking your vehicle in and paying someone. This worked for me instantly. I am so relieved!
I did the same thing, I cleaned throttle body, did the "relearn" process and had the same symptoms. The symptoms were a high idle which lead to fast reverse gear and a quick off-the-brake coasting. Also the braking felt non-linear (because when I'm braking, the car still felt like it was giving a little bit of gas (acceleration). I tried this trick, and it works like a charm. Like the OP said, find your radio code before you decide to do this!
Actually I thought that it works, but the true is that it only reset the Ecu/pcm. You need to clear throttle body position value before Ecu reset, and only after that the idle relearn process could be triggered.
Thank you sir , I am going to try it tomorrow , if it works I will the happiest man alive !!! I have been trying to do the re learn and it doesn't work, on my 2007 Honda CR-V, for the last 2 days. I hope it works. I will let you know..
I feel like I owe your annoying friend another pack because after countless reset to include a trip to an indy shop who charged me $45 to relearn tps via scanner just to have the high and fluctuating idle come back. I was ready to put another throtle body when I came across this video. I did this so "battery voodoo" and what do you know, the rpms are stable and there is no more fluctuations while driving. Highly recommend this if all else fails trying to relearn your tps.
It drains all the sensors ram therefore resetting I saw another video and he explained the technology point of view these new cars are a pain still buying that fox well
i have a 2008 civic prosmatic and i have this same issue, havn't tried anything yet but mechanics tell me that it is because of NO Catalytic Converter honeycomb mesh. I don't believe them and will try this 2 case of beer fix tonight.
I can’t see on the video but what do you mean my touch them? You mean put the positive terminals and negative terminals together? Or touch both battery terminals with hand seperate from each other ?
Sorry to hear that. I discovered this trick by accident cost me 2 cases of beer. You can try to buy a device that can reset the throttle body or take it to the shop and have them reset it. If that doesn't work then you will need a new throttle sensor, body, or both. Sometimes people use wire brush to clean and it scratched the surface area causing permanent damage to the throttle body.
Iv been taken to the cleaner several times. I have these issues were ready to replace the ecu , no communication to throttle body; the vehicle runs ok it just would not do the idle relearn , the fluctuates giving a PO507 only code; on my issue didn’t work several times tried reset
I have similar issue. I changed my ECU and now my car idles at 2000 RPM, however, if I manage to engage gear or turn on the AC, it returns to 1000 RPM. I took it everywhere, they claimed the replaced ECU is not compatible. I need help, please.
RPM should increase slightly because the power steering using the engine resource, the same applied if you turn on the AC. If the idle jump too high, I would first change the fluid or clean the idle controller valve to see if it help.
My Civic rpm needle will drop slightly and it go back up as I move the steering wheel. So you are putting a load on your engine when you turn your steering wheel and the computer telling the idle controller to bring the engine back to the normal idle speed. I also notices that the rpm needle will jump more when the engine is cold, and slightly when it's warmed up, so this is normal. But if you get the high idle and it stuck there, then you definitely have an idle problem.
THANK YOU for everyone's help the idle(ing) got significantly better after cleaning. NEW problem arose, i can hear the coolant bubbling FROM inside the car when im driving. ANY SUGGESTIONS? AGAIN THANKS IN ADVANCE
Do you have white smoke come out of the tail pipe? I highly recommend you do a pressure test on your cooling system. You want to look at the radiator hose, if the hose collapse, then I would replace the radiator cap. The pressure test will give you an idea if you have a leak in the system and in some cases, it force the air trapped in the system as well. I think AutoZone can test it for you but the engine have to be cold for them to open the radiator cap. Bring a gallon of antifreeze for refill just in case you have a leak.
It will work sometimes, but most times won't work. The Computer has set parameters inside with backup battery/capacitor storage. As soon as you drive 20-50 miles, it reverts back to it's zone...meaning same problem.
You can use this procedure to temporally clear the check engine light. But if the problem is not fixed, the check engine light will come back on. Code P0507 is high idle problem. If the RPM is not fluctuating up and down then you can try this procedure, if it is fluctuating, the check for vacuum leaks and possible dirty or bad Idle Air Control. When I have this high idle problem, my check engine light did not come on, just a high idle issue.
@@truerenegade1095 My IAC is built right into the Throttle Body, like your 2010. I have a 2007 Civic Si. Yes, It may be a vacuum leak. The MAP Sensor hasn't been cleaned up yet..hmmm. I will see about those 2 things, then try your Procedure. I'll get back to you and let you know what happens. Thankyou for your help, TR
@@user-vq8iw3it5n I don't have the SI model but got the vacuum leak where the intake hose after the MAP sensor and the PCV hose. I ended up clean the MAP, and replace the PCV valve as well to fix the problem.
Hi, I had all the codes cleared, then had the Throttle Reset done with a Launch Scanner. It's running beautiful, but I have to get a broken square bolt and screw that still has part of the head on it, on the negative Battery Terminal. This afternoon, Honda Dealership Advisor wanted $68 for a Tech to get the bolt off, and also gave me an attitude..No thanks..Give me a break!!!!
You touched the positive to the negative... everything grounded to the car comes back to the negative so why keep it from touching anywhere? You just reset the ecu and probably didn't perform relearn after.
@@truerenegade1095 You can't relearn without clearing old memory in ecm module , you can cleare memory the way you did it or witch computer pluged in to your car .
All this does is reset your cars codes. You can do this with a obd 2 scan tool. If you do it with the scan tool you won't need to enter your radio code.
I have the same problem with my 2010 Honda Civic, today the dealer couldn’t resolve the problem what is sad and annoying because they have all the equipment, tools and information from Honda. Tomorrow I will try the process showed in this video and I will let you know the result.
@@truerenegade1095 It didn't work for me. Any idea about what I'm doing wrong. I noticed that there are two wires that connects to the positive terminal of the battery. Please help as this 1200 RPM is taking a lot of fuel.
See What trouble code are you getting when the check engine light is on and go from there. You can use this technique to temporarily turn off the check engine light, but it will come back on when your car defected a problem.
Do not make any repair until you find out what cause the check engine light to come on. You need to find out what's the trouble code and it will point you to the right direction. This will eliminate the guess works and it will save you times and money.
@@guillermososa9816 I was able to find my radio code at the dashboard area where the letter box is. I mean the passenger side. Just open it and check at the edges of the open box
Hey everyone .I need help please .I have A CRV 2009 I opened the throttle body and clean then put it back and start the car after I did the relearn process but the idling still about 1300 I did everything even I change the whole throttle body I bought used ones cost me 150$ and the same before that I took it back to the dealer and they charge me 282$ but they didn't do any thing .they said you have to change the throttle body it will cost you 750 $ ..so please my friends any suggestions because one day maybe I will burn this stupid car hhhhhh. Thank you all
Usually the dealer will reset the throttle position sensor/computer. If they telling you to replace the throttle body, they probably detected that it was damage. Some people use wire brush to clean the throttle body and damage it. Check out the link below and good luck. honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-civic-how-to-replace-and-calibrate-tps-374868
@@truerenegade1095 yes they said the sensor is damaged and I change it but nothing happens the rpm still high I did everything relearn and I take of the battery terminals but still the code read P0507 the Rpm is higher than expected
@@davevalinty4293 my friend I did every trick in this Planet but still nothing happens my car drive me crazy on day I will smash it in the wall and get the insurance money back😅😅😅
Hey bro, just in case you run into this problem. When the engine is on (RUNNING) and you disconnected the battery, if the engine still running, that mean you alternate is charging (Charging system is working). If the engine stop running when you disconnected the battery terminal, that mean you need to replace the alternator. Keep this in mind and hopes you never have to use it.
Thanks for the tip. I mean this in the nicest way but next time can you not make a 8 minute video if all you have to do is disconnect the battery terminals and touch them together for five seconds.
If you an original owner, you can find this code in the maintenance/owner manual (in your glove compartment). The dealer hand written mine in and it's a 4 digits code.
This has to be the simplest and weirdest fix yet it worked 100%. THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This saved me countless hours and dollars- if you are experiencing high idle issues with your Honda, give this a try before taking your vehicle in and paying someone. This worked for me instantly. I am so relieved!
You are very welcome!!!
I did the same thing, I cleaned throttle body, did the "relearn" process and had the same symptoms. The symptoms were a high idle which lead to fast reverse gear and a quick off-the-brake coasting. Also the braking felt non-linear (because when I'm braking, the car still felt like it was giving a little bit of gas (acceleration). I tried this trick, and it works like a charm. Like the OP said, find your radio code before you decide to do this!
cool!!! Thanks for the feed back and very happy to hear that it's working.
What is a radio?
@@guillermososa9816 LOL
Went from 1500 to 1000. Helped a little
Just did it to my 2009 civic type s. It works! Thank you 🙂👍
Cool. Cheers!!!
I confirm that it works with Honda CR-V 2007 also. Thank you.
Actually I thought that it works, but the true is that it only reset the Ecu/pcm. You need to clear throttle body position value before Ecu reset, and only after that the idle relearn process could be triggered.
why it didn't worked on my car guys.
thank you sir I have been pulling what hair I have left out I am going to try this again thank you
Thank you sir , I am going to try it tomorrow , if it works I will the happiest man alive !!! I have been trying to do the re learn and it doesn't work, on my 2007 Honda CR-V, for the last 2 days. I hope it works. I will let you know..
Hi buddy, this problem is just happening to my 2008 Honda CR-V now just like you. Can you tell me how to solve the problem?
Sir i own you ,you make my day saving 350 on the dealership ,
I feel like I owe your annoying friend another pack because after countless reset to include a trip to an indy shop who charged me $45 to relearn tps via scanner just to have the high and fluctuating idle come back. I was ready to put another throtle body when I came across this video. I did this so "battery voodoo" and what do you know, the rpms are stable and there is no more fluctuations while driving. Highly recommend this if all else fails trying to relearn your tps.
This is the most unusual fix for me. Thank you for sharing. Your comment will help out others.
It drains all the sensors ram therefore resetting I saw another video and he explained the technology point of view these new cars are a pain still buying that fox well
Two cases of beer is expensive , especially Modelo 😂 aha Thanks for the info man I appreciate it 👌 keep up the good vids
Have not try that brand, but it look good!!!
I’m a mechanic and I have done plenty work for a case of beer. Best to just take it to someone you trust so you don’t fuck anything up
good my problem solve thanks
I told this story to a Nerd and ended up spend 20 minutes listening to him explaining how electron and proton interacts....
i have a 2008 civic prosmatic and i have this same issue, havn't tried anything yet but mechanics tell me that it is because of NO Catalytic Converter honeycomb mesh. I don't believe them and will try this 2 case of beer fix tonight.
Nothing happened! no sign of any kind of change
wow 06 8th gen it worked
I can’t see on the video but what do you mean my touch them? You mean put the positive terminals and negative terminals together? Or touch both battery terminals with hand seperate from each other ?
It is a stupid video AND IT WORKS
Thanks YOU
Cheers!!!
Would that work for low idle too? 🤔
I tried this in my 2007 civic lx after cleaning TB. Did not solve my issue.
Sorry to hear that. I discovered this trick by accident cost me 2 cases of beer. You can try to buy a device that can reset the throttle body or take it to the shop and have them reset it. If that doesn't work then you will need a new throttle sensor, body, or both. Sometimes people use wire brush to clean and it scratched the surface area causing permanent damage to the throttle body.
Iv been taken to the cleaner several times. I have these issues were ready to replace the ecu , no communication to throttle body; the vehicle runs ok it just would not do the idle relearn , the fluctuates giving a PO507 only code; on my issue didn’t work several times tried reset
Check the connector first.
I have similar issue. I changed my ECU and now my car idles at 2000 RPM, however, if I manage to engage gear or turn on the AC, it returns to 1000 RPM. I took it everywhere, they claimed the replaced ECU is not compatible. I need help, please.
Anybody know why the RPM goes UP everytime the steering wheel is turn from left to right. Thanks
RPM should increase slightly because the power steering using the engine resource, the same applied if you turn on the AC. If the idle jump too high, I would first change the fluid or clean the idle controller valve to see if it help.
@@davevalinty4293 thanks Dave, its jumping ore than normal. Fluid change, COPY
My Civic rpm needle will drop slightly and it go back up as I move the steering wheel. So you are putting a load on your engine when you turn your steering wheel and the computer telling the idle controller to bring the engine back to the normal idle speed. I also notices that the rpm needle will jump more when the engine is cold, and slightly when it's warmed up, so this is normal. But if you get the high idle and it stuck there, then you definitely have an idle problem.
THANK YOU for everyone's help the idle(ing) got significantly better after cleaning.
NEW problem arose, i can hear the coolant bubbling FROM inside the car when im driving. ANY SUGGESTIONS? AGAIN THANKS IN ADVANCE
Do you have white smoke come out of the tail pipe? I highly recommend you do a pressure test on your cooling system. You want to look at the radiator hose, if the hose collapse, then I would replace the radiator cap. The pressure test will give you an idea if you have a leak in the system and in some cases, it force the air trapped in the system as well. I think AutoZone can test it for you but the engine have to be cold for them to open the radiator cap. Bring a gallon of antifreeze for refill just in case you have a leak.
Thaks a lot
I have a 2011 civic lx coupe that idles at 1300rpm but then will drop to 900 after a few minutes. Is this normal for the vehicle?
yes, that is normal.
@@truerenegade1095 Okay. Thank yoi for replying.
It will work sometimes, but most times won't work. The Computer has set parameters inside with backup battery/capacitor storage. As soon as you drive 20-50 miles, it reverts back to it's zone...meaning same problem.
Hi, great video. I got a CEL code PO507, we cleared the code..the CEL came back on. Am I able to do your procedure with a CEL On?
You can use this procedure to temporally clear the check engine light. But if the problem is not fixed, the check engine light will come back on.
Code P0507 is high idle problem. If the RPM is not fluctuating up and down then you can try this procedure, if it is fluctuating, the check for vacuum leaks and possible dirty or bad Idle Air Control. When I have this high idle problem, my check engine light did not come on, just a high idle issue.
@@truerenegade1095 My IAC is built right into the Throttle Body, like your 2010. I have a 2007 Civic Si. Yes, It may be a vacuum leak. The MAP Sensor hasn't been cleaned up yet..hmmm. I will see about those 2 things, then try your Procedure. I'll get back to you and let you know what happens. Thankyou for your help, TR
@@user-vq8iw3it5n I don't have the SI model but got the vacuum leak where the intake hose after the MAP sensor and the PCV hose. I ended up clean the MAP, and replace the PCV valve as well to fix the problem.
Hi, I had all the codes cleared, then had the Throttle Reset done with a Launch Scanner. It's running beautiful, but I have to get a broken square bolt and screw that still has part of the head on it, on the negative Battery Terminal. This afternoon, Honda Dealership Advisor wanted $68 for a Tech to get the bolt off, and also gave me an attitude..No thanks..Give me a break!!!!
@@davevalinty4293 I did try your procedure twice..but it didn't work..so that's why I Launched it. :)
So disconnect the battery for 10 seconds and it will reset the whole car? And that solves it
Don't just disconnected it, touch the +and - cable together. It will also temporary reset your check engine light too.
Thanks 🙏 so cool
You touched the positive to the negative... everything grounded to the car comes back to the negative so why keep it from touching anywhere? You just reset the ecu and probably didn't perform relearn after.
Relearn doesn't work on this problem.
@@truerenegade1095 You can't relearn without clearing old memory in ecm module , you can cleare memory the way you did it or witch computer pluged in to your car .
I have a problem: every time I step on the gas pedal the RPM goes up, then when I release gas pedal, it goes down. Any ideas????
So what is THE PROBLEM?
Seem normal to me. High idle on this model is for warnings up only.
@@davevalinty4293
Well, and when I step on the brake pedal, car slows down.. I am very concerned. Any ideas??
@@elmecanico4943
🤣🤣🤣
They were design to work that way.
All this does is reset your cars codes. You can do this with a obd 2 scan tool. If you do it with the scan tool you won't need to enter your radio code.
I have the same problem with my 2010 Honda Civic, today the dealer couldn’t resolve the problem what is sad and annoying because they have all the equipment, tools and information from Honda. Tomorrow I will try the process showed in this video and I will let you know the result.
I hopes it work out for you. Please let me know if it work.
@True Renegade, It really works! Thank you!
Cool !!!
@@truerenegade1095 It didn't work for me. Any idea about what I'm doing wrong. I noticed that there are two wires that connects to the positive terminal of the battery. Please help as this 1200 RPM is taking a lot of fuel.
Plz helppppp
I did this to turn my check engine light off
Now the rpm is high like 2k rpm
Before that it was 800rpm
Plz helppppp
See What trouble code are you getting when the check engine light is on and go from there. You can use this technique to temporarily turn off the check engine light, but it will come back on when your car defected a problem.
Do not make any repair until you find out what cause the check engine light to come on. You need to find out what's the trouble code and it will point you to the right direction. This will eliminate the guess works and it will save you times and money.
The positive and negative wires on my 09 lx are not long enough to touch each other so I used a jumper wire and the idle is still high
What is a radio code?
If you use a manufacture radio from Honda. You will need to enter the radio code in order for your radio to work. It like a pass word to your radio.
Thank you for replying. Would this code be in the manual?
@@guillermososa9816 you can google search honda radio code. follow the instructions to get your code.
@@guillermososa9816
I was able to find my radio code at the dashboard area where the letter box is. I mean the passenger side. Just open it and check at the edges of the open box
would this work on a 2010 accord ?
should work on all Honda.
Awww man it didn't work with mine
Hey everyone .I need help please .I have A CRV 2009 I opened the throttle body and clean then put it back and start the car after I did the relearn process but the idling still about 1300 I did everything even I change the whole throttle body I bought used ones cost me 150$ and the same before that I took it back to the dealer and they charge me 282$ but they didn't do any thing .they said you have to change the throttle body it will cost you 750 $ ..so please my friends any suggestions because one day maybe I will burn this stupid car hhhhhh. Thank you all
Usually the dealer will reset the throttle position sensor/computer. If they telling you to replace the throttle body, they probably detected that it was damage. Some people use wire brush to clean the throttle body and damage it. Check out the link below and good luck.
honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-civic-how-to-replace-and-calibrate-tps-374868
@@truerenegade1095 yes they said the sensor is damaged and I change it but nothing happens the rpm still high I did everything relearn and I take of the battery terminals but still the code read P0507 the Rpm is higher than expected
Did you take both battery terminals out then touch them like showed on this video? Take just a negative terminal off will not work.
@@davevalinty4293 my friend I did every trick in this Planet but still nothing happens my car drive me crazy on day I will smash it in the wall and get the insurance money back😅😅😅
Emad Pola idle air control valve?? My car is tripping too but I think im gonna work on it myself
I move the steering wheel and the RPM goes UP. Any help pls
My 2010 civic does it as well.
@@guillermososa9816 it's supposed to.
Make sure your car is off 😂. Man I can’t imagine someone trying to take off the battery with their car on 😂
Hey bro, just in case you run into this problem. When the engine is on (RUNNING) and you disconnected the battery, if the engine still running, that mean you alternate is charging (Charging system is working). If the engine stop running when you disconnected the battery terminal, that mean you need to replace the alternator. Keep this in mind and hopes you never have to use it.
@@truerenegade1095 oh yeah that's true i forgot about that my bad. I guess i'm the idiot lol
Alguém.traduz
Thanks for the tip. I mean this in the nicest way but next time can you not make a 8 minute video if all you have to do is disconnect the battery terminals and touch them together for five seconds.
What is the radio code?
If you still have an OEM Honda Radio, anytime you disconnected the battery, you have to put in a 4 digits code, otherwise, you can not use the radio.
If you an original owner, you can find this code in the maintenance/owner manual (in your glove compartment). The dealer hand written mine in and it's a 4 digits code.