Bespoke vs Made To Measure & Ready To Wear - Suits, Shirts, Shoes Explained
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- Опубліковано 9 чер 2016
- For the written guide, please visit:gentl.mn/ready-to-wear-made-me...
#bespoke #madetomeasure #notsponsored
Do you want to buy a suit, pair of shoes or any other items of clothing?
If so, chances are you have seen the fancy terms used to describe the items you were looking for but the sales person could never really explain what that meant.
In this video, I help you to understand the difference between RTW, OTR, MTO, MTM and bespoke and I point out what you should do if things are unclear or if someone claims to be a bespoke tailor, shoemaker etc. and how you can find out if he or she really is what they claim there are.
Otherwise you may end up overpaying for something that is not truly what it claims to be.
No matter if you buy ready to wear, off the rack, made to order, made to measure or bespoke this video will provide you with the answers.
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The thing about a bespoke suit is that not only do you get a lifetime classic piece of clothing out of the end, you get the experience and the advice from it. Every year for my birthday, for the last few years anyway, I have treated myself to a bespoke suit - the whole process, soup to nuts, is immersive and you really learn a lot about yourself, your sense of style and how you want to carry yourself in the world from the process. It's a living example of how clothes can maketh the man.
This is the most beautiful and helpful comment I've read on UA-cam in a long time. I don't know if you're a writer of any kind, but perhaps consider it, no joke.
Yes.
I just told some family members of the beauty of bespoke suiting, the quality, details and possibilities for alterations, and they basically laughed at me. They thought styles would constantly change, questioned the quality of fabrics, saying any suit would wear out after less than a decade, completely disregarded the perfect fit and superior comfort (from having high armcyes and such) and basically called it a waste of money. I feel like their ignorance and preconceived notions are an insult to the history and craftmanship of menswear, but who am I to try and change their mind...
Don't change their mind with discussions, wear the suit until it feels natual for people seeing it on you :)
There's a site from italy which sells made to measure garments and it's more expensive than bespoke tailor shops in Greece.
I convinced what may actually be the last tailor who makes bespoke suits on the Island of Crete to come out of retirement to make me a suit for the not inconsequential sum of 1200 euros. Amazing what flattery can accomplish. Was just measured three days ago, and the first fitting is scheduled for four days from now. Italian fabric darkish gray in color. Quite honestly, its my second one, but I’m more excited for the first fitting than i was for my high school prom. I’ve seen some of his work and its superb.
How did it turn out?
@@coz7891 very very happy. Going back this year to see if he’ll make me a couple pairs of trousers. Assuming hes alive…
Thanks for clarifying that because I have always thought made to measure was bespoke.
It most certainly is not. You can't simply take 10, 30, or 40 measurements (lengths) and attribute that to a human body. You need spatial information as well. Thats 3 dimensions, lengths are just one. For example I look like an elderly person from chest up, a pregnant women in the mid section and average legs. That simply is not attractive. Simply measuring my waist isn't going to make everything work. What if my stomach sticks out in the front, but I have narrow hips? A bespoke tailor, or any tailor can easily use their eyes, and hands and several fitting sessions to add material here, take away there. No what style can be achieved and what can not with out using a saw and lumber haha. We all have various body types, some need nothing others need a lot. Using only numbers, linear measurements, would require a lot of math and geometry to make it work. So much that you aren't capable of taking the measurements by yourself at home. In my opinion Made to measure simply doesn't make sense.
I would sooner buy a 1 or 2 size too large off the rack suit and bring it to any old tailor to have adjustments made than order made to measure. You are simply waisting your time with that. Because made to measure trys to aspire to some measurements, that means it may not be possilbe to have it adjusted to fit. You can always take in a jacket/pants but you can't take it out. If you go off the shelf that is slightly large, you have a lot of room for the tailor who simply has to take stuff in. You may end up paying 100 or more for all the work (taking appart ready made suits is far more difficult and time consuming than bespoke). But you can probably get a great looking suit that way, if you can't afford a bespoke suit, or nobody in area.
@@marshalcraft i hope you toned down and dont look like a pregant woman since these 3 years 😅
Until I can afford bespoke suits from Napoli or Savile Row, I get by on off the rack suits with several alterations to improve their fit. It's become harder to find satisfying options though, since I am gaining a growing appreciation of quality fabrics and like my suits with as little lining as possible.
Great video! I have the same issue that You have. One of my shoulders is slightly lower than the other. Fortunately, I happened to meet a great tailor in my city.
Very informative. Thank you, sir!
Amazing video sir, waiting for a video on monk straps types and history :D
Lately I’ve been buying vintage clothing usually from very good labels. Trying to get a mixture leather, , wool, linen, sick and some cotton. Sometimes when I received is great sometimes it’s a dud but never spend much money on most of the garments I’m sorry he’s out fine. I know they’re not gonna be perfect fit some of them are going to have to be all can still won’t be perfect but when I can afford bespoke garments I’ll start investigating map quality.Always enjoy your videos direction
Thanks for your explanation!
Great stuff man!
Very informative. thanks
Hi Sven I really enjoyed your program. Would you mind have a seesion on fabrics please? Would like to know about Dormeuil, Loro piana, VBC etc. Thanks.
good to know im not the only one with asymetrical shoulder or body. so now i know what mtm is
love the setup @ 2:35 looking boss
Ive seen different types of shawl lapels on different tuxedos. Can you choose the type of shawl lapel when getting a MTM tuxedo?
I also have a shoulder that's lower--also my right. I got my first suit from Men's Warehouse and the experience was pretty good, but that was before I started watching your videos and others like them. Would you say Men's Warehouse is more if an OTR or MTM store? My jacket and pants were taken off the rack and tailored in-house.
How can one really improve ones chances to have a great suit from an online made to order (i.e Suit Supply and Articles of Style)?
It’s sad after I got ripped and buff my suit is hard to fit in.
You should come to New Delhi India and try Vaish at Rivoli master tailors..u will forget saville row..bespoke suit with 1st fitting of twal i.e. full suit made of cheaper fabric ment to be discarded..dont think anyone in saville row does this now..and at fraction of the prices
Good tailor is the key, can adapt RTW to MTM. Be prepared to pay for it, worth every penny
I was curious to know if a Brooks Brothers made to measure is worth the money.
Hey Raphael,
Do you have any experience with: Tailor4less? If so, what do you think about them?
What's your opinion on MTM sites such as Suitopia?
#Mandeep Baweja Hey Raphael,
Do you have any experience with: Tailor4less? If so, what do you think about them? @Sonny Jacob Lee
I recently decided to buy a MTM suit because of my athletic body with a small waist and broad shoulders. They had huge problems taking measures to avoid wrinkles and as a result it even got too wide in the shoulder area, so I look like some kind of block. As this was my first suit I was very unhappy about it and don't know if the only solution will be a bespoke one or if I should try another tailor.
Paul Schimmel A good tailor will be able to tailor a suit conforming to all the quirks of one's body. It might be more of a challenge but the end result will always be far superior to what any MTM company will be able to do. Think about it, your body is quite different from the average man, how will anyone know how to tailor a suit for an unusual body type using only measurements?
Bespoke is my absolute favorite, but I haven't gotten to experience it quite yet.
Since you say a bespoke suit requires quite a bit of knowledge on the customer's part, what do you think is the best way to acquire such knowledge? Do you suggest to slowly build it up as you go along and invest in a MTM suit first as to know better what you want in the future? So far, my suits (I only have two) have only been of the RTW category, mostly because I'm a student with limited budgets. However, in the future I might save up to purchase a suit that will last me a lifetime and in the meantime fits pretty close to perfect. I just started to watch your video's by the way and they're really helpful!
www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentleman-dress-suit-budget-15-tips-guide/
www.gentlemansgazette.com/classic-wardrobe-on-a-budget/
+Gentleman's Gazette Thank you for the links, very helpful!
You can also read more about it, for example here www.gentlemansgazette.com/mens-fashion-book-library-guide/
+Gentleman's Gazette I will definitely check that out as well! Also, I've subscribed to the newsletter. Liking it so far :)
Hi Raphael, can you recommend an online MTM shop?
Nice fitting suit!
#Mandeep Baweja It depends on your body shape @Paul Schimmel
you said bespoke has to have at least 50 hours of work on it... what about these bespoke tailors in bangkok that do them in 24 hours or this rajawongse or raja that I have heard Centeno mentioned on his videos a few times (also from bangkok)?
Roberto Solis Don't know nothing about no tailors in Bangkok dude.
do you have a guide on watches?
yes www.gentlemansgazette.com/watch-guide/
thank you!!! and great vid
I prefer MTM, what do you think about OliverWicks? I am just about to order a suit from them.
I have not tested them.
Hello Mr Shneider you ABSOLUTELY MUST!!! check out this chap Bespoke Suit, Custom made Suit by Master Tailor Rudolf Popradi (chapter 1); he is one of the only true bespoke tailor in the world who does EVERYTHING from start to finnish ALONE and entirely by hand. I.E One goes to him; he sketchetches the pattern by ahnd for the individual client; cuts the cloth, assemble everyhting and stitches EVERY SINGLE stich by hand (with the same techniques than a 150 years ago). Ergo from skethc to finnish; anything one orders from him NEVER once goes into the hands of some other craftsmen than his own!!! The only other tailor I know who (might) do that is Zack Pinsent who creates historic clothing. Rudolf Popradi is a Hungarian tailor working in Canada; I just discovered his videos on youtube yesterday n I was flabbergasted by the beauty of his crafsmanship; he shows how stitches the entire suit on his youtube videos; he is exactly like one of those artisanal Victorian tailors;! You must definitely give a sentence or two about him in ur next superb videos about suits, history n or, or bespoke tailoring. For hungarian TRUE bespoke tailor is a MUST for any gentlemen who desires to have modern suit made with just the same techniques and overall tailor to customer experience than in the days of old!
What's the point of MTM if it requires tailoring after the fact? Is tailoring usually included in the MTM price?
depends on mtm shop
Oliver wicks offers tailoring money
waiting for more)
Stay tuned ;)
I am looking for a navy suit, for war
Do you have truly bespoke suits?
Of course. I have RTW, MTO, MTM, Bespoke and Vintage in my wardrobe.
#The Ddos ?? @Cowboy Hank
??
At last you've got a suit that fits you fairly well.
Actually it doesn't. It is too tight in the arms and across the back. But you can't see that in the video. Judging fit from a picture or video is difficult though
Gentleman's Gazette Now I see, but for your next suit as you know what to improve is surely going to be a great one.
In INDIA there are so many tailors who were established in early 20th century.....who know the ART of making full canvas suits at VERY LOW PRICES .....they have skills...but...the only thing in which they lack is EDUCATION....they are unaware of the fact that they could charge much more In exchange of there skill and expertise...... u know a full canvas 2 piece suit will cost you around $100 - $350 and more only if the quality of fabric is higher... I know that its not true bespoke but still it is better than made to measure......they charge only $50 as a fee and give amazing Fitting....and I have seen tailors of other country having the same skills and expertise and charging thousands of dollars for it....
Where exatly is that?
Somebody would have an idea if they brought that product and affordability worldwide
Can you tell me where such tailors are. I am from India. Are these tailors from Mumbai?
Don't forget that some "made to measure" is a con. They measure you and then sell you the closest-fitting OTR item.
Great info, bad videography
Amazing I'm overwhelmed by the difference between of the rack and tailor made, I have 44 regular but my pants waist is smaller and length has to be shortened.
Hey Raphael,
Do you have any experience with: Tailor4less? If so, what do you think about them?
No, but buying custom clothing on budget rarely yields great results