I'm few years late year, but I just watched it now :) Few comments had some good suggestions already. Your issue was with the prep of the parts, electroplating is a very clean (spotless) process and the wrenches had visible dark spots on them that was either rust (oxide layer will prevent plating metal ions from "sticking") or some other layer of crap from chemical cleaning that will will not give you nice finish. That alcohol cleaning is not really going to do much here and I would not be plating anything until you see shiny bare metal. My plating prep consist of hot (alkaline) degreaser bath, stripping rust if necessary with acids (HCL or caswell #4 I believe it was), mechanical prep using soft wire brushes, wire wheel on bench grinder and various small attachments for drill. For mechanical prep vibratory tulbers and maybe vapour blasting are options as well. Basically the more shiny metal is before plating the better it will look plated, so soft wire wheels really do good job. For repairing pitted parts I've read that basically you first plate the part with copper because it builds up quickly and you send it smooth and plate it again, and again until you get smooth surface. Then you would do Nickel and Chrome on top with typical 3 step chrome plating. For larger pitting I think caswell sells also low melting point filler rod thingies and that is their modern recommended way. Before plating the parts always get cleaned in hot degreaser then rinsed of in distilled water, sometimes I would etch them for 3-5 seconds in very diulated HCL and rinse again, but that is optional. I would recommend getting plating guide from caswell if you want to start new hobby :D
Just in time, I plan to try to restore some of my father's old tools. One of them is a vintage gedore adjustable wrench with S-shaped handle. I might do a video about that.
Nice video and I'm guessing there's be a lot of views for it. One thing that I think might be worth adding (even in the verbage below the video) would be a link to Geoffrey Crocker' restoration of a Stahlwille socket set. He describes and demonstrates the 'Copy Chrome' process that is identical to what you chose. Also useful is his metal-removal technique in areas of more substantial damage. Speaking of GC's excellent video, you might be interested in a comment beneath it from an ex-salesman for Stahlwille where he names the 'official' case color name and code. Could be useful for future projects. I've some very rusty Dowidats to restore and I'm keen to see this and all similar videos. Merry New Year to you, thanks for all the videos and fingers crossed for more in 2018. As a result of your videos I've done my own share of KC unboxings albeit nothing to the extent you have.
A Dremel with a brass wire brush might work to remove some of the severe corrosion and Cratex type wheels might remove the pitted metal without doing much, if any damage (if you're careful) to the surrounding metal. I wonder if using an ultrasonic cleaner on these is a good idea? Since they work by cavitation would that not strip off or cause peeling of the chrome around the damaged/worn areas? Ultrasonic cleaners are extremely efficient cleaners and can sometimes harm certain materials and finishes/coatings due to their efficacy and method of cleaning. Happy new year, hope it brings you health and success (and more German tools).
Great detail. I wonder how it would do if you submerged the wrench into the solution by and left the positive lead suspended in the solution as well. I noticed you were "dabbing" the wand a lot on the wrench, but didn't seem to hold it onto the spots for very long. And of course, removing the layer of iron oxide first seems to be very important. I TIG weld and just the smallest spec of rust can cause big problems.
I appreciate the useful information here. If you are ever inclined, I would really appreciate a "sonic cleaner 101" video. BTW. One of uncles died a few years ago. He had about 800 guns, most of which were rusted, to various degrees. There is something about rust, in that buyers at gun shows are attracted to it. I believe that my relatives made more money selling rusted guns, than if they had spent time removing rust and then trying to sell them...
hifivega You might be interested in the following video where a Kiwi, Geoffrey Crocker restores a Stahlwille socket set and uses a chrome kit exactly like GTR does here - albeit with more explanation and in New Zealand it's called 'Copy Chrome'. It's a terrific video and I recommend the entire thing: ua-cam.com/video/9ULUw5gtzj4/v-deo.html
You should try using aluminium foil to sand away the pitted areas. Because the foil is soft it won't scratch of remove the surrounding chrome, much safer to use than abrasives if you don't to lose the original finish.
Those spanners are in good condition or have seldom been used? Normally damage number one you will find on old spanner would be impact marks after somebody hammering on those as if it would be an impact spanner. Which of course is a very poor practice.
They were on a boat for many years or that is the story I got from the person who gave them to me. I think most of the damage is just from corrosion. Probably got some water in the toolbox at some point.
Hi great job on those wrenches. Ive a question for you if you could help, not related to wrenches but an old German branded screwdriver i own, on the handle is weralit kraftform made in Germany. Is this the same as wera brand as they are similar in shape. Thanks
Yeah I've seen some Arndt key L-Keys before. They are more of an OEM manufacturer but they still sell products with Arndt on them, mostly DIN-911 hex keys. Here is their web site: www.arndt-tool.de/ Their stuff is not that common outside of Europe.
![Old Record 24" Stilson Monkey Wrench [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/20Yp81KVRMA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm few years late year, but I just watched it now :) Few comments had some good suggestions already. Your issue was with the prep of the parts, electroplating is a very clean (spotless) process and the wrenches had visible dark spots on them that was either rust (oxide layer will prevent plating metal ions from "sticking") or some other layer of crap from chemical cleaning that will will not give you nice finish. That alcohol cleaning is not really going to do much here and I would not be plating anything until you see shiny bare metal. My plating prep consist of hot (alkaline) degreaser bath, stripping rust if necessary with acids (HCL or caswell #4 I believe it was), mechanical prep using soft wire brushes, wire wheel on bench grinder and various small attachments for drill. For mechanical prep vibratory tulbers and maybe vapour blasting are options as well. Basically the more shiny metal is before plating the better it will look plated, so soft wire wheels really do good job. For repairing pitted parts I've read that basically you first plate the part with copper because it builds up quickly and you send it smooth and plate it again, and again until you get smooth surface. Then you would do Nickel and Chrome on top with typical 3 step chrome plating. For larger pitting I think caswell sells also low melting point filler rod thingies and that is their modern recommended way. Before plating the parts always get cleaned in hot degreaser then rinsed of in distilled water, sometimes I would etch them for 3-5 seconds in very diulated HCL and rinse again, but that is optional. I would recommend getting plating guide from caswell if you want to start new hobby :D
Just in time, I plan to try to restore some of my father's old tools. One of them is a vintage gedore adjustable wrench with S-shaped handle. I might do a video about that.
Happy new year and thanks for sharing your videos.
Cheerio from Germany.
A wire wheel might smooth those spots enough for it to take effect
Great video, thanks for sharing
Been waiting for a restore vid 😄😃
Very cool brother nice job
Very good video I usually spray my pegboard tools with wurth ultra 2040 and it keeps them spotless,
John O Neill you kidding?
Nice video and I'm guessing there's be a lot of views for it.
One thing that I think might be worth adding (even in the verbage below the video) would be a link to Geoffrey Crocker' restoration of a Stahlwille socket set. He describes and demonstrates the 'Copy Chrome' process that is identical to what you chose. Also useful is his metal-removal technique in areas of more substantial damage.
Speaking of GC's excellent video, you might be interested in a comment beneath it from an ex-salesman for Stahlwille where he names the 'official' case color name and code. Could be useful for future projects.
I've some very rusty Dowidats to restore and I'm keen to see this and all similar videos.
Merry New Year to you, thanks for all the videos and fingers crossed for more in 2018. As a result of your videos I've done my own share of KC unboxings albeit nothing to the extent you have.
Thanks, I did see his video some time ago. I couldn't remember if he used the same product, but it was definitely a similar process.
Copy Chrome is Cobalt Sulfate. Cobalt (ii) Chloride and Chloric acid.
I think Nickel Chrome plating might match the matte finish better, since they say they nickel plate them first for German tools
A Dremel with a brass wire brush might work to remove some of the severe corrosion and Cratex type wheels might remove the pitted metal without doing much, if any damage (if you're careful) to the surrounding metal.
I wonder if using an ultrasonic cleaner on these is a good idea? Since they work by cavitation would that not strip off or cause peeling of the chrome around the damaged/worn areas? Ultrasonic cleaners are extremely efficient cleaners and can sometimes harm certain materials and finishes/coatings due to their efficacy and method of cleaning.
Happy new year, hope it brings you health and success (and more German tools).
Great detail. I wonder how it would do if you submerged the wrench into the solution by and left the positive lead suspended in the solution as well. I noticed you were "dabbing" the wand a lot on the wrench, but didn't seem to hold it onto the spots for very long. And of course, removing the layer of iron oxide first seems to be very important. I TIG weld and just the smallest spec of rust can cause big problems.
Merry Christmas
I appreciate the useful information here. If you are ever inclined, I would really appreciate a "sonic cleaner 101" video.
BTW. One of uncles died a few years ago. He had about 800 guns, most of which were rusted, to various degrees. There is something about rust, in that buyers at gun shows are attracted to it. I believe that my relatives made more money selling rusted guns, than if they had spent time removing rust and then trying to sell them...
Anyone got any recommendations on a good quality extensive set of mini screwdrivers? Been looking at some Wiha ones but it’s hard to find a large set.
Nice video! I’ve never seen anything like that chrome “patch” kit you’re using.
hifivega You might be interested in the following video where a Kiwi, Geoffrey Crocker restores a Stahlwille socket set and uses a chrome kit exactly like GTR does here - albeit with more explanation and in New Zealand it's called 'Copy Chrome'. It's a terrific video and I recommend the entire thing: ua-cam.com/video/9ULUw5gtzj4/v-deo.html
Frank Black yeah I’ll check that out for sure! Thanks
You should try using aluminium foil to sand away the pitted areas. Because the foil is soft it won't scratch of remove the surrounding chrome, much safer to use than abrasives if you don't to lose the original finish.
Thanks for the tip!
Those spanners are in good condition or have seldom been used?
Normally damage number one you will find on old spanner would be impact marks after somebody hammering on those as if it would be an impact spanner.
Which of course is a very poor practice.
They were on a boat for many years or that is the story I got from the person who gave them to me. I think most of the damage is just from corrosion. Probably got some water in the toolbox at some point.
Hi great job on those wrenches. Ive a question for you if you could help, not related to wrenches but an old German branded screwdriver i own, on the handle is weralit kraftform made in Germany. Is this the same as wera brand as they are similar in shape. Thanks
Thomas Jervis 'Kraftform' remains a Wera brand in 2018 so I'm thinking you are correct
Where can I get some detent pin balls
Hello just wandering if you could possibly give me some information on a old hex key I've found from a company called Arndt? Much appreciated thanks
Yeah I've seen some Arndt key L-Keys before. They are more of an OEM manufacturer but they still sell products with Arndt on them, mostly DIN-911 hex keys. Here is their web site: www.arndt-tool.de/ Their stuff is not that common outside of Europe.
Pitting.
On the tops is more currend as in the holes.
Rust is an isolator.
Merry Christmas everyone.
Who the fuck restore a wrench? Just use it..