Hi folks, one caveat to add now that I've digested this video a bit: In my diagram with the cone and the space marine, it looks like I'm holding the miniature a foot away from the airbrush. That's not my intention - rather, it's just to illustrate that the farther you are from the mini, the more mini will get hit by paint :) Don't hold it a foot away, it will just get all over the model and your hand. And furniture.
It took me a lot of messy practice to understand psi. 25-30 psi, thicker mediums blasting all over the model like primer and base coats. 12-15 psi, detail work with thin mediums This was the hardest lesson for me for some reason.
I have watched every, EVERY airbrush video on youtube and THIS is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you good sir. Thank you. I was riveted the whole time, no joke. 👍
Great video, I sent it to a friend of mine who's looking to make the plunge into getting an airbrush. Also sent him RobPaintsModels video. I started with a cheap Masters set from Amazon and quickly moved to an Iwata Eclipse HC and added a Neo to rotate between the two while painting. Learning the hard way about moisture and painting in the NE USA with lots of humidity in the summer is fun. Airbrushing when you start, is very intimidating. Some of my first models look like ass and I had so much trouble getting the thinning of paints down right (still struggle with certain colors/paint brands). But the only way to get better is to do it.
My Airbrush was in non stop clog fest and I tried literally everything, improver, 3 different brands of thinner... nothing. eventually it broke so I dont use it anymore. Sad...
So excited to get my first air brush, I have a warranty claim to make on a Snap On breaker bar, going to use the credit to get an airbrush instead. Old man works in the compressor industry and has provided me with an industrial water trap and awesome little gauge and regulator, will use the dirty old work compressor for now and see how she goes. You're the first I've seen with the PowerPoint presentation and it really does put things into perspective for me, so thank you for this.
On price, you are 100% correct. I bought a NEO for Iwata which has a .35mm nozzle for around $100 CDN. It was my first airbrush and I was hoping to get away with it. I tried every paint and thinner combo to try and spray fine lines for camo jobs etc but nothing worked. The nozzle clogged almost instantly leading to no paint or massive overspray leading to ruined work. Now I have the Iwata HP-CS and the NEO collects dust. Take it from me, you can spend $200 and get the good brush or $300 and still only use to the good brush. Your choice!
A few air flow improver drops to thin the paint to get through the nozzle if too thick and wet a cotton bud with air flow improver and clean around the front needle area to remove any dried paint which may be blocking the paint outflow.; using paint thinner in the first instance helps. Cheap airbrush from China are not bad if all you ant to do is prime or varnish your models though (varnish is not kind to your airbrush if not cleaned up fast before it dries), they can be used for basic miniatures basing also but yeah I had the front screw nozzle with the rubber ring break in the first few uses, so not great components.
Brilliant video and fantastic great tips. I have the full range of Army paints, can you give me your thoughts on using them for airbrush application if you've ever used them yourself. I've just got myself a beautiful H & S Infinity CR plus and can't wait to start using it tomorrow. Thanks for all your help, much appreciated
This was really helpful for me. I got in to minis a few months ago and have painted a few but was always intrigued by airbrushing. I actually found your PowerPoint to be a good way to explain some of the basics. Thanks for your insight!
Forget the "sorry's" this is an excellent tutorial for newbies like myself and yes I do have a H&S CR Plus airbrush and a Sparmax TC 620X compressor, but unless I have your guidance for what, which, where and when to do all this stuff, well I'm going to waste many hours experimenting, which I know I have to do, but I still need to be shown the basics so thanks millions.
This video is two years old, so you probably won't see this, but I just wanted to say thanks so much. I adjusted my workflow when airbrushing, especially when applying my gradients, and the first model I took my new approach with turned out high and away better than my previous! i.imgur.com/8Fh3h5f.jpg This was my Wave Serpent I painted after watching your video. Cheers! Done with my H&S infinity series, .4mm on a simple walmart hobby compressor!
This video is great. The information is on point. My only question would be that you said to spend at least $100 on an airbrush. For beginners, I would recommend the Iwata NEO CN. Runs between $55 - $70. Nice dual action brush that does some pretty good detail work. Comes with a .35 nozzle.
DO NOT spend $100 or more on your first airbrush. You WILL destroy it. Buy a cheap airbrush and practice first. Learn how to thin paint for airbrush and how to clean it properly. Yes, you will likely throw it away after a few months but that's better than throwing away an expensive airbrush. Also, get Vallejo Flow Improver.
Duerf 100 isn’t really much for an airbrush. And it’s a big assumption that a person would destroy their first airbrush - I didn’t. It’s not rocket science and there are plenty of guides online for cleaning and maintenance.
There a lot of nuances in operating an airbrush that you can only learn from experience. And following guide is one thing but successfully replicating the process is a whole different thing. Of course, experience varies differently for individuals but it's always safer to practice with cheaper equipment and get the basics down first. Also, price is subjective - $100 may not be much to you but that certainly not the case for me 5 years ago when I was still in college. And cleaning is not as straightforward as it looks. There are many types of paint (acrylic, lacquer, etc) and each of them requires specific cleaning solutions. In my experience, many tutorials recommend Medea Airbrush Cleaner but it find it useless most of the time. And before I found a better solution the airbrush had already been ruined. Not to mention that there is some brands of acrylic paint that flocculates when reacting with cleaning solution and they shouldn't be sprayed out of the nozzle.
I'm curious about your workflow sequence. You dry brush after you prime but before base painting? Maybe it's just terminology but for me base painting is usually the layer where I have to saturate the mini with the minis primary colour (as in blue for ultramarines)i which results in any dry brushing work being lost. What am I missing here?
Great video. I just purchased an airbrush and this video gave me a better understanding of how manipulating the trigger changes paint density, air flow, etc. Thanks!
Hey Jarret, what an excellent video! I don't think I've seen anyone break down the specific uses and timing quite like you have here. Also the example at the end where you are painting the typical mini really illustrates how often the airbrush can be incorporated into the process. I got an airbrush about 9 months ago and I have really noticed how much it speeds up certain parts of the painting process. Your advice on buying a name brand airbrush is spot on! Listen to him on this one folks. I bought a cheap one from China and the seals went bad almost immediately.
@@TheMiniJunkie Hehe, well the blue cone may have been a bit over-done there in the middle in my opinion, but overall was a great and informative video.
A fantastic video, thank you! I am waiting for my first ever airbrush to arrive and was searching the whole internet for the workflow - and I have found it in your video.
Thanks for the tips mate! Love your deepkin, I've put mine off due to the detail. Im still learning using brushes but feel good on most techniques but brand new to airbrush. Keen to mimic some ideas you've used on your deepkin and thanks for your guide on how you do stuff 👍
my airbrush is a pile of shit and only spits. I think it worked fine at one point but its just crap now. but I doubt it ever was any good and I need to put some money behind it.
I have a cheapass airbrush that I use for fine detail, I got rid of the nozzle seal and I use beeswax. Gotta say it’s better without the seal but with beeswax. The beeswax trick will work for any brand. Eventually I’d like a Badger airbrush, but a $15 cheapass airbrush and $3 of beeswax is a great option for me! Great video! This is what people need to see, so many videos “assume” you know how the airbrush works
Teflon plumbing tape also works magic for these, I polished in mine needle using fine grit (up to 3000)nail polishing block it improved paint flow and seems like I have less clogging since did that. Good video keep on doing them :)
I'm curious, how does one airbrush the cloak of a mini while the rest of it is also painted? Do you use silly putty or something to protect your paint scheme? Thanks in advance!
Airbrush the Cloak first. A little over spray doesn't hurt anything. The airbrush spray should be very light. Cover up and details later with a brush should be no problem.
Yeah silly putty and tape. Iwata makes some decent tape specifically for this Just use it once on something clean first then apply it to the model after you get it less taky so it doesn't pull anything up.
If at any point you're wondering about whether or not to thin, I find its best to err on the side of caution; worst case scenario is that you need two to three coats of thinned primer than one coat of straight primer. The biggest thing to keep an eye out for when spraying full strength primer is that you can really overdo it and glop a lot of primer onto the miniature which, just like with paint, can wind up covering details.
My first air brush was\ is a neo about $100 cad. the only problem I have after 2 years is the air part of the trigger sticks when i do a larger project. Looking into picking up something around $200.
Hi folks, one caveat to add now that I've digested this video a bit: In my diagram with the cone and the space marine, it looks like I'm holding the miniature a foot away from the airbrush. That's not my intention - rather, it's just to illustrate that the farther you are from the mini, the more mini will get hit by paint :) Don't hold it a foot away, it will just get all over the model and your hand. And furniture.
It took me a lot of messy practice to understand psi.
25-30 psi, thicker mediums blasting all over the model like primer and base coats.
12-15 psi, detail work with thin mediums
This was the hardest lesson for me for some reason.
I have watched every, EVERY airbrush video on youtube and THIS is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you good sir. Thank you. I was riveted the whole time, no joke. 👍
morbode oh wow, thank you that means a lot to me! I was literally just asking myself if maybe I blew it with this one lol!
I’m new to airbrushing. Very new. My biggest challenge is getting the right viscosity.
Cardboard Cutter I have a video about thinning paints for airbrushing that might help
Cardboard Cutter ua-cam.com/video/mpULbqYLGUk/v-deo.html
This is hilarious "pupils XD"
Great video, I sent it to a friend of mine who's looking to make the plunge into getting an airbrush. Also sent him RobPaintsModels video.
I started with a cheap Masters set from Amazon and quickly moved to an Iwata Eclipse HC and added a Neo to rotate between the two while painting. Learning the hard way about moisture and painting in the NE USA with lots of humidity in the summer is fun.
Airbrushing when you start, is very intimidating. Some of my first models look like ass and I had so much trouble getting the thinning of paints down right (still struggle with certain colors/paint brands). But the only way to get better is to do it.
John Saugling exactly!
My Airbrush was in non stop clog fest and I tried literally everything, improver, 3 different brands of thinner... nothing. eventually it broke so I dont use it anymore. Sad...
What brand did you get?
@@imjusttrolling4358 It was Sparmax DH-103
So excited to get my first air brush, I have a warranty claim to make on a Snap On breaker bar, going to use the credit to get an airbrush instead. Old man works in the compressor industry and has provided me with an industrial water trap and awesome little gauge and regulator, will use the dirty old work compressor for now and see how she goes.
You're the first I've seen with the PowerPoint presentation and it really does put things into perspective for me, so thank you for this.
On price, you are 100% correct. I bought a NEO for Iwata which has a .35mm nozzle for around $100 CDN. It was my first airbrush and I was hoping to get away with it. I tried every paint and thinner combo to try and spray fine lines for camo jobs etc but nothing worked. The nozzle clogged almost instantly leading to no paint or massive overspray leading to ruined work. Now I have the Iwata HP-CS and the NEO collects dust. Take it from me, you can spend $200 and get the good brush or $300 and still only use to the good brush. Your choice!
Sorry to hear about your experience but I’m also glad to hear my theory was correct re: cheap airbrushes!
A few air flow improver drops to thin the paint to get through the nozzle if too thick and wet a cotton bud with air flow improver and clean around the front needle area to remove any dried paint which may be blocking the paint outflow.; using paint thinner in the first instance helps. Cheap airbrush from China are not bad if all you ant to do is prime or varnish your models though (varnish is not kind to your airbrush if not cleaned up fast before it dries), they can be used for basic miniatures basing also but yeah I had the front screw nozzle with the rubber ring break in the first few uses, so not great components.
True you can use a cheaper airbrush for priming/varnishing as you point out!
Brilliant video and fantastic great tips. I have the full range of Army paints, can you give me your thoughts on using them for airbrush application if you've ever used them yourself. I've just got myself a beautiful H & S Infinity CR plus and can't wait to start using it tomorrow. Thanks for all your help, much appreciated
This was really helpful for me. I got in to minis a few months ago and have painted a few but was always intrigued by airbrushing. I actually found your PowerPoint to be a good way to explain some of the basics. Thanks for your insight!
Adam Shaw awesome!
Forget the "sorry's" this is an excellent tutorial for newbies like myself and yes I do have a H&S CR Plus airbrush and a Sparmax TC 620X compressor, but unless I have your guidance for what, which, where and when to do all this stuff, well I'm going to waste many hours experimenting, which I know I have to do, but I still need to be shown the basics so thanks millions.
Diagrams can help many who are visual learners and can show the concepts much better than the actual spray pattern can on film. Well done!
This video is two years old, so you probably won't see this, but I just wanted to say thanks so much. I adjusted my workflow when airbrushing, especially when applying my gradients, and the first model I took my new approach with turned out high and away better than my previous! i.imgur.com/8Fh3h5f.jpg This was my Wave Serpent I painted after watching your video. Cheers! Done with my H&S infinity series, .4mm on a simple walmart hobby compressor!
This video is great. The information is on point. My only question would be that you said to spend at least $100 on an airbrush. For beginners, I would recommend the Iwata NEO CN. Runs between $55 - $70. Nice dual action brush that does some pretty good detail work. Comes with a .35 nozzle.
DO NOT spend $100 or more on your first airbrush. You WILL destroy it.
Buy a cheap airbrush and practice first. Learn how to thin paint for airbrush and how to clean it properly. Yes, you will likely throw it away after a few months but that's better than throwing away an expensive airbrush. Also, get Vallejo Flow Improver.
Duerf 100 isn’t really much for an airbrush. And it’s a big assumption that a person would destroy their first airbrush - I didn’t. It’s not rocket science and there are plenty of guides online for cleaning and maintenance.
There a lot of nuances in operating an airbrush that you can only learn from experience. And following guide is one thing but successfully replicating the process is a whole different thing. Of course, experience varies differently for individuals but it's always safer to practice with cheaper equipment and get the basics down first. Also, price is subjective - $100 may not be much to you but that certainly not the case for me 5 years ago when I was still in college.
And cleaning is not as straightforward as it looks. There are many types of paint (acrylic, lacquer, etc) and each of them requires specific cleaning solutions. In my experience, many tutorials recommend Medea Airbrush Cleaner but it find it useless most of the time. And before I found a better solution the airbrush had already been ruined. Not to mention that there is some brands of acrylic paint that flocculates when reacting with cleaning solution and they shouldn't be sprayed out of the nozzle.
I'm curious about your workflow sequence. You dry brush after you prime but before base painting? Maybe it's just terminology but for me base painting is usually the layer where I have to saturate the mini with the minis primary colour (as in blue for ultramarines)i which results in any dry brushing work being lost. What am I missing here?
Great video. I just purchased an airbrush and this video gave me a better understanding of how manipulating the trigger changes paint density, air flow, etc. Thanks!
You dont need to apologize for the pp presentation style. It's very clear. Good video. Thanks
My go to airbrush is a work horse; a Badger 155 Anthem. It has a .76 mm nozzle and needle which works fine for me. I use it to paint my model trains.
Hey Jarret, what an excellent video! I don't think I've seen anyone break down the specific uses and timing quite like you have here. Also the example at the end where you are painting the typical mini really illustrates how often the airbrush can be incorporated into the process. I got an airbrush about 9 months ago and I have really noticed how much it speeds up certain parts of the painting process. Your advice on buying a name brand airbrush is spot on! Listen to him on this one folks. I bought a cheap one from China and the seals went bad almost immediately.
Shane Flickinger thank you for the kind words, Shane! I have to admit I was feeling insecure about this video lol!
@@TheMiniJunkie Hehe, well the blue cone may have been a bit over-done there in the middle in my opinion, but overall was a great and informative video.
This is great mate. Using the power point is great for visualising what is happening. Some really good tips.
A fantastic video, thank you! I am waiting for my first ever airbrush to arrive and was searching the whole internet for the workflow - and I have found it in your video.
I love your vids, but we don't all have a hundred bucks or more to spend on a air brush when starting to learn it. All the other info was great though
"You can paint pupils with an airbrush."
Fuggin wut?!
Really nice video :)
Thanks for the tips mate! Love your deepkin, I've put mine off due to the detail. Im still learning using brushes but feel good on most techniques but brand new to airbrush.
Keen to mimic some ideas you've used on your deepkin and thanks for your guide on how you do stuff 👍
my airbrush is a pile of shit and only spits. I think it worked fine at one point but its just crap now. but I doubt it ever was any good and I need to put some money behind it.
Probably just clogged internally. Find a good video/tutorial picking your airbrush apart and clean it.
excellent demonstration! thk a lot
I have a cheapass airbrush that I use for fine detail, I got rid of the nozzle seal and I use beeswax. Gotta say it’s better without the seal but with beeswax.
The beeswax trick will work for any brand.
Eventually I’d like a Badger airbrush, but a $15 cheapass airbrush and $3 of beeswax is a great option for me!
Great video! This is what people need to see, so many videos “assume” you know how the airbrush works
Joe thanks!
Teflon plumbing tape also works magic for these, I polished in mine needle using fine grit (up to 3000)nail polishing block it improved paint flow and seems like I have less clogging since did that. Good video keep on doing them :)
This is awesome but from my understanding, the only thing that changes the actual width of the spray cone is needle/tip size.
LemurKrazy yes but for any given nozzle the cone is narrower the closer you are to the miniature.
On some airbrushes you can also adjust the amout of paint, you spray. This results in a narrow and short cone
This was excellent. Many thanks!
Awesome! Keep rocking!
Definitely easy to follow. I'm thinking about getting an airbrush and really step up my game. Anything to demystify it is helpful! Thanks!
Matt Cappelli great!
Great vid 👍🏼
I'm curious, how does one airbrush the cloak of a mini while the rest of it is also painted? Do you use silly putty or something to protect your paint scheme? Thanks in advance!
Airbrush the Cloak first. A little over spray doesn't hurt anything. The airbrush spray should be very light. Cover up and details later with a brush should be no problem.
Masking is key. You can use masking putty, tape, fluid, cling foil, etc...
Yeah silly putty and tape.
Iwata makes some decent tape specifically for this
Just use it once on something clean first then apply it to the model after you get it less taky so it doesn't pull anything up.
Great video. This is solid information!
Immensely helpful. Thank you for this.
Thanks!
I was not able to find any information if you should thin your primer when applied through airbrush, can anyone answer if I should do this?
dragonfistbs if you are using Vallejo surface primer or Badger Stynlrez you should not need to thin it. Try spraying it around 30-40 PSI.
@@TheMiniJunkie any other primer should be thinned? I use Warcolor primer, GreenStuff primer and other primers atm :(
If at any point you're wondering about whether or not to thin, I find its best to err on the side of caution; worst case scenario is that you need two to three coats of thinned primer than one coat of straight primer. The biggest thing to keep an eye out for when spraying full strength primer is that you can really overdo it and glop a lot of primer onto the miniature which, just like with paint, can wind up covering details.
I use a couple of drops of a 50:50 mixture airbrush thinner/flow improver (1 drops mix to every 5 drops paint).
My first air brush was\ is a neo about $100 cad. the only problem I have after 2 years is the air part of the trigger sticks when i do a larger project. Looking into picking up something around $200.