How To Replace Spark Plugs 11-19 Ford Explorer 3.5
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In 2011 Ford Motor company introduced their next gen Explorer, the new explorer was a substantial upgrade over the prior generation, and boasted many new features including the newly redesigned 3.5L Duratec V6. This motor would prove over the next decade how robust and reliable it is.
Spark plugs when they wear can cause a misfire under load and other drivability issues, when a spark plug wears it makes the amount of energy required to jump the gap go up, because electricity is always looking for the path of least resistance as the resistance gets greater through the plug, it will eventually find a pathway down the porcelain and arc out the plug threads / cylinder head. when this happens it leaves behind a phenomenon known as carbon tracking.
When a spark plug wears and carbon tracking occurs often this presents with a misfire under load and often comes with a flashing check engine light under load / acceleration.
This vehicle is a 2011 model year Ford Explorer XLT although all the 3.5 Duratec engines will use this same method for spark plug replacement.
Excellent video! Really upped my confidence in doing the job myself. Our 2011 Explorer started throwing a P0303 when we try to pass someone so time to see if fresh plugs & boots will fix that.
A little more challenging than when I did the inline 6 on my old Land Cruiser....
Thanks for the feedback! It looks intimidating but it's really pretty easy.
I would Not put motor oil on the spark plugs! I have been a ASE Master Technician for over 30 years now and I have never seen anyone do that. There is a special compound for the job and it’s called “Anti Seize” ! Its a high temperature compound and it will also help you when you have to take the spark plugs out after a long time without damaging the threads of the engine head. Just a little bit of information to help make your job a little more professional.
Anti Sieze is great but if you read manufacturer procedures many actually call for a light coat if clean engine oil. I'd have to double check Ford's procedure for this one, I'm not sure off the top of my head. I generally prefer to use an additive called power punch for spark plugs, it's less messy, and works just as well if not better to prevent galling of the aluminum heads. Thank you for your feedback!
Great video, just changed all the plugs, this walked right thru it. Old boots getting stuck on plugs is a pain in the but though.
Yea, that's where regular maintenance is key. Also, put dielectric grease in the end of the boot prior to installation to prevent that problem from reoccurring.
Good job. Not too difficult, and went pretty easy. These are good engines, if you take care of them.
Yes they are! Maintenance is the key that most people forget.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Happy to help
Your presentation was good except for one thing you didn’t list or show the NAPA BOOTS PART NUMBER OR A LINK TO WHERE YOU HAD PURCHASE THE ITEM-
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE89930501
Anyone who has to do this now, Ford has updated the spark plug to SP-589. These plugs replace the SP-520 that were in the engine to begin with. You can still use the SP-520 if you are able to find them. I found they are a little more expensive and a little less accessible than the SP-589. The SP-589 is what the dealerships will use from here on out.
Thanks for the updated info!
@RogueWrenching you're welcome. I have to change out the spark plugs on my 2018 Explorer and these plugs are the ones that kept coming up so I called the dealership and asked them to confirm it.
I'd love to get my hands around the neck of the engineer who decided it's a good idea to have to remove the intake manifold to change the plugs.
However years ago my mother had a VW that you had to disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine up to change them
This one isn't to bad as far as spark plugs go. As a professional tech who works on cars 40+ hours a week I've seen some pretty challenging repairs, this one isn't all that bad when compared to say a Duramax turbo. But yes I wish the engineers where forced to spend a season out in the field repairing these vehicles I suspect things would get substantially easier to work on.
You never put back in the throttle body bolt, on the lower end, that you used all the extensions for?
I must have forgotten to film that part, the bolt did go back in I can as assure you.
Clean oil on spark plug threads? I've always been told to use nickel anti-seize by Ford techs! Especially on 5.4L 3V V-8's!
These 3.5s are completely different. That's what ford's o.e. instructions call for.
May I ask y dealer gave me sp-589 are they same as 520?
I'm not sure. That may be a superseded part number. If the dealer looked up the part off your VIN, it should be correct.
I believe the SP-589 is the updated plug. I need to do my 2018 Explorer and had the parts store look it up and SP-589 and 520 popped up.
Dropping the spark plug down the whole was not a smart move. Most likely caused the gap to change. You didn’t even blow of the debris on the engine before removing the intake. Are you a rookie?
I mean it's got almost 50k on it since this repair, and it's still fine so help me understand what I did wrong? A risk? sure. but I know what I'm doing believe it or not.
My man is like 6’6 lol
Solid guess, but I'm actually a lick over 6'7"
Unless you got those plugs from the dealership then they are not the factory plugs.
That is why they are in a Motorcraft box and say Motorcraft on them...
O'Reilly's and Rock Auto sell genuine plugs. Most of the "Motorcraft" plugs sold on Ebay and Amazon are counterfeit Chinese junk with Motorcraft packaging.
@@RogueWrenching Just because they see motorcraft on it doesn't make them the factory plug.
@fatfairlane yes but if they don't say motorcraft, they are, for sure, not the factory plug. Use good quality parts if you want your vehicle to last.