Ollie: Imagine my surprise to see this video from you since I just decided to buy a Daystar Quark Chromosphere a week ago. Thanks for all this useful information about it while I wait for it to arrive. I had also considered the Baader Herschel Wedge which costs half the price of the Quark but decided the Quark would be more versatile. I mostly bought the Quark for the total solar eclipse in April but now you have inspired me to try out solar imaging as well. Your photos were fantastic. Happy new year.
Hey Tsula, what can I say great minds think alike ! I've been really happy with it so far, I first tried it on my 80mm but prefer it on this 100mm setup. I think like you say it was the versatility that appealed to me too. One thing I noticed is every man and their dog has an opinion on which type of ERF. Good luck with the setup look forward to the video, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I also recommend Simon Tangs videos on Solar processing if you're interested in imagining. Cheers again and Happy New Year to you too.👍
Cracking results Ollie. I had a look through a solar specific scope at an astronomy festival a couple of years ago. Its quite mesmerising and amazing to think you are looking at a star close up (rather than the pin prick of light we normally see doing deep sky).
Hey John it really is mind-blowing isn't it. I wasn't sure if I'd really be into this but I'm really enjoying solar and also nice to take something that doesn't take hours !!!! Cheers Pal and happy New year.
Interesting video Ollie, you’ve come far with solar in a short space of time! A whole new learning curve mate! I know nothing of solar, I am interested in it, but I feel I haven’t got the time at present! It’s enough for me with the change to Nina (video hopefully out tomorrow)! I will definitely have a go in the future and your video will be a great source of info for the novice like me😀 Great images mate👍 Cheers Ollie, clear skies!
Hey mate - thanks, it's actually kinda easier in terms of the capturing and editing although you do need those good seeing conditions. I think you'll really like NINA once you're into it, although I'd also say use whatever works for you mate. Cheers Pal 👍👍
Nice video Ollie, with the crap weather most of us have had over the last year I think a lot of people will be interested in this mate, having thousands of pounds invested in equipment that's just collecting dust is not good for the hobby so anything that can keeps the interest going into we get more clear skies has to be a good thing
Hey Tony - Yes indeed I've kinda come to that conclusion. I'd rather be out there using my gear than watching it. Do hope this new year gives us at least a somewhat better weather outlook. Cheers.
@@OlliesSpace I was going to get the Coronado PST, but a member of my club said get the Lunt 40mm or 50mm. I did the math and the 50mm has 56-57% more light gathering area so I went that route. For close ups with an eyepiece it makes a difference in good conditions. I've looked at the surface granulation with it on cold still mornings around 10 to 11 AM after rain clears the skies of dust here in Southern New Mexico.
i still have my 60mm dedicated daystar i need to bring it back out and give it a workout😁 what i like about the 60mm is it can be used on the az gti mount 👍
Great Video. I am using SVBony 503 102mm. i have small doubt. if we use the SVBony 102mm for sun it be using for deep sky also. because the sun rays damage the lense?
Hi mate nice to see you doing some solar I really need to do some more but the weather really has sucked here. Quarks are a great bit of kit but just keep an eye on your images just in case it fails usually it starts when part of the image is just blurred out. I don't mean to start any horror stories but I do know of people who have been through a few until they got themselves a good one .A guy on stargazers lounge went through 5 & gave up yet his wife has one & it were fine. This was a few years ago mind so hoping the quality has since improved but something to be wary of. In saying that those images have turned out great mate.
@@OlliesSpace - thanks, very helpful new video. But you don't say anything in either video about tuning the quark with the knob. Also, you show views with different camera gains, low and high, with low gain surface features are clear but the proms are barely visible, with the high gain the proms are well visible but the surface is overexposed. It appears however you collect data with the low gain, presumably because you need surface features to do stacking. With my quark at a gain that reveals surface features proms are invisible and at high gain when proms are clear surface is WAy over-exposed.
what filter was you using? try another in case its at fault.. i had a slight leak with an L1 while testing with a mates setup.. caused the camera to overheat.. swapped for a L3 he had and no problems since..
Ok here are the facts. DayStar suggests anything 80mm and larger a high quality UV/IR filter installed and a Diag with that filter in front of the diag. Also an ERF filter is really needed...Why with a 4" or 102mm to 120mm and larger dia front lens will have lots of heat, with a ERF reduces about 99% of the Solar heat. I would get an ERF if you are serious and I know it's costly. But it's 1 time investment. So for an 80mm a Diag and a UV/IR will work very nicely, and maybe with an 102mm it will work for an hour or 2 hr or 3 hr, but constant Solar exposure will heat up the scope and camera, maybe only limit solar exposure to 1 hr, let cool down and repeat is my thinking. Also someone on Cloudy Nights said instead of the UV/IR to get a Ha filter (nightime filter) say a 7nm this will reduce the harmful UV/IR and I got an SVBONY low cost Ha 7nm, but have not tried it yet. So I would say use a 2" Diag with 99% high end coatings with a UV/IR or Ha filter like the SVBONY or Oplong filters, maybe you already have a 1.25 or 2"? This will reduce the Solar UV/IR for an 80mm and maybe your 102mm for 30 min to 1 hr without getting hot? NOTE this IS ONLY FOR CAMERAS AND NOT NOT VIEWING WITH HUMAN EYES!!!!!!!!!!! Last point the ERF do not get a Daystar there lower cost ERF is poor image image quality, I got an "Altair 140mm Hydrogen Alpha D-ERF" So I can go up to an 130mm front optic with reducing image quality.
Thanks for the various tips, yes there is lots of information on Cloudy nights exploring all of these points. I think at the end of the day each user has to make their own choice. Further down the road I may go a front mounted ERF. 👍 Cheers
Nice setup and captures Ollie! Welcome to the world of Solar!
Cheers Dave !!
Nice rundown on the setup which is definitely doing the business as those images at the end were great with lots of surface detail also.
Cheers Logan yeah at least it means I can image something at last !
Ollie: Imagine my surprise to see this video from you since I just decided to buy a Daystar Quark Chromosphere a week ago. Thanks for all this useful information about it while I wait for it to arrive. I had also considered the Baader Herschel Wedge which costs half the price of the Quark but decided the Quark would be more versatile. I mostly bought the Quark for the total solar eclipse in April but now you have inspired me to try out solar imaging as well. Your photos were fantastic. Happy new year.
Hey Tsula, what can I say great minds think alike ! I've been really happy with it so far, I first tried it on my 80mm but prefer it on this 100mm setup. I think like you say it was the versatility that appealed to me too. One thing I noticed is every man and their dog has an opinion on which type of ERF. Good luck with the setup look forward to the video, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I also recommend Simon Tangs videos on Solar processing if you're interested in imagining. Cheers again and Happy New Year to you too.👍
Cracking results Ollie. I had a look through a solar specific scope at an astronomy festival a couple of years ago. Its quite mesmerising and amazing to think you are looking at a star close up (rather than the pin prick of light we normally see doing deep sky).
Hey John it really is mind-blowing isn't it. I wasn't sure if I'd really be into this but I'm really enjoying solar and also nice to take something that doesn't take hours !!!! Cheers Pal and happy New year.
Nice one mate, far out horrible cloudy season locally... thanks for sharing
Ye it's been a pretty bad one !
Very nice and good job 🎉
Interesting video Ollie, you’ve come far with solar in a short space of time! A whole new learning curve mate! I know nothing of solar, I am interested in it, but I feel I haven’t got the time at present! It’s enough for me with the change to Nina (video hopefully out tomorrow)! I will definitely have a go in the future and your video will be a great source of info for the novice like me😀 Great images mate👍 Cheers Ollie, clear skies!
Hey mate - thanks, it's actually kinda easier in terms of the capturing and editing although you do need those good seeing conditions. I think you'll really like NINA once you're into it, although I'd also say use whatever works for you mate.
Cheers Pal 👍👍
The images are just astounding If I ever get round to solar imaging I'll look you up. just that everything is so damned expensive!
Hey Nick - Yep there not cheap that's for sure. I was pretty amazed at the images I think I was lucky to get good seeing that day too.
Great video! Perhaps you may want to touch upon the issue of back focus with the Quark?
Good point yes. I did have this in my original recording but my camera gave out. I'll for sure mention down the road.
Cheers
Nice video Ollie, with the crap weather most of us have had over the last year I think a lot of people will be interested in this mate, having thousands of pounds invested in equipment that's just collecting dust is not good for the hobby so anything that can keeps the interest going into we get more clear skies has to be a good thing
Hey Tony - Yes indeed I've kinda come to that conclusion. I'd rather be out there using my gear than watching it. Do hope this new year gives us at least a somewhat better weather outlook. Cheers.
I bought the Lunt 50mm Ha solar with the side pressure tuner, gives a good view once you learn the tuner.
Sounds like a nice system I know a couple people who have the Lunts would make a great wide view
@@OlliesSpace I was going to get the Coronado PST, but a member of my club said get the Lunt 40mm or 50mm. I did the math and the 50mm has 56-57% more light gathering area so I went that route. For close ups with an eyepiece it makes a difference in good conditions. I've looked at the surface granulation with it on cold still mornings around 10 to 11 AM after rain clears the skies of dust here in Southern New Mexico.
i still have my 60mm dedicated daystar i need to bring it back out and give it a workout😁 what i like about the 60mm is it can be used on the az gti mount 👍
Hey Frack - I think I've seen Garnett use that exact same setup. Looks a killer little portable rig for solar 👍
Great Video. I am using SVBony 503 102mm. i have small doubt. if we use the SVBony 102mm for sun it be using for deep sky also. because the sun rays damage the lense?
Hi mate nice to see you doing some solar I really need to do some more but the weather really has sucked here. Quarks are a great bit of kit but just keep an eye on your images just in case it fails usually it starts when part of the image is just blurred out. I don't mean to start any horror stories but I do know of people who have been through a few until they got themselves a good one .A guy on stargazers lounge went through 5 & gave up yet his wife has one & it were fine. This was a few years ago mind so hoping the quality has since improved but something to be wary of.
In saying that those images have turned out great mate.
Thanks for the cautionary tale mate, hopefully like you say there under better QC these days and mine will last as long as Chucks!!!
Glad you made the jump to solar. Hope you’re well. If you can solder look up replacing the heat sink in your camera. It’s not difficult.
Ye I've also heard the front mounted ERF is preferable to stop heat build up in tube and lengthen the life of the Daystar. 👍
please explain how you got the final images you show: turning, camera, processing etc
@@bhastro9959 I have another video here with more information: ua-cam.com/video/zZzo1a-5HqM/v-deo.htmlsi=rN8SPp3_mjJd4Vi-
@@OlliesSpace - thanks, very helpful new video. But you don't say anything in either video about tuning the quark with the knob. Also, you show views with different camera gains, low and high, with low gain surface features are clear but the proms are barely visible, with the high gain the proms are well visible but the surface is overexposed. It appears however you collect data with the low gain, presumably because you need surface features to do stacking. With my quark at a gain that reveals surface features proms are invisible and at high gain when proms are clear surface is WAy over-exposed.
Thanks for that!
No problem!
what filter was you using? try another in case its at fault.. i had a slight leak with an L1 while testing with a mates setup.. caused the camera to overheat.. swapped for a L3 he had and no problems since..
I'll try this cheers 👍
Ok here are the facts. DayStar suggests anything 80mm and larger a high quality UV/IR filter installed and a Diag with that filter in front of the diag. Also an ERF filter is really needed...Why with a 4" or 102mm to 120mm and larger dia front lens will have lots of heat, with a ERF reduces about 99% of the Solar heat. I would get an ERF if you are serious and I know it's costly. But it's 1 time investment. So for an 80mm a Diag and a UV/IR will work very nicely, and maybe with an 102mm it will work for an hour or 2 hr or 3 hr, but constant Solar exposure will heat up the scope and camera, maybe only limit solar exposure to 1 hr, let cool down and repeat is my thinking. Also someone on Cloudy Nights said instead of the UV/IR to get a Ha filter (nightime filter) say a 7nm this will reduce the harmful UV/IR and I got an SVBONY low cost Ha 7nm, but have not tried it yet. So I would say use a 2" Diag with 99% high end coatings with a UV/IR or Ha filter like the SVBONY or Oplong filters, maybe you already have a 1.25 or 2"? This will reduce the Solar UV/IR for an 80mm and maybe your 102mm for 30 min to 1 hr without getting hot? NOTE this IS ONLY FOR CAMERAS AND NOT NOT VIEWING WITH HUMAN EYES!!!!!!!!!!! Last point the ERF do not get a Daystar there lower cost ERF is poor image image quality, I got an "Altair 140mm Hydrogen Alpha D-ERF" So I can go up to an 130mm front optic with reducing image quality.
Thanks for the various tips, yes there is lots of information on Cloudy nights exploring all of these points. I think at the end of the day each user has to make their own choice. Further down the road I may go a front mounted ERF. 👍
Cheers
show us images without any processing,
This product won't be on the market for long. It's a very bad idea to put a solar filter at the end of the optical chain.
For what reason ?
@@OlliesSpace It can damage your telescope. This isn't the first product like this, and people had to learn the hard way.