FORGED N54 BUDGET BUILT MOTOR BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2022
- FORGED N54 BUDGET BUILT MOTOR BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY
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You should use a old piston with only the second ring on it when checking your ring gaps, that way the the piston ring on the piston acts as a stopper when pushing down the new ring is 100% square in the bore when measuring. But well done.
Nice tip! Thanks
I was excited for this already but this video intensified it! I hope everything works. Fitment seems pretty flawless. Better than I expected honestly.
Brilliant video! I totally appreciate the authenticity and diligence you demonstrated here. This one's going into my permanent offline archive for future reference. ;) In the big picture, N54's are common enough at the moment, but not for long. BMW will never produce an engine like this again; although some say the B58 is a worthy successor. In a few years they'll be harder to find than an unmolested Countach. In any case true (non-billionaire) petrol heads and collectors will be looking for ways to keep these engines in running order down the road, affordably. Info on how to do it is invaluable.
I was extremely sceptical of this build but it looks really good for a diy build. I am not at all experienced but have watched a lot of engine builds by pro's and whenever channels (engine power) have done diy style builds they look a lot like this. Hopefully it holds as you hope and does what it says on the tin.
I appreciate all the support you bring to the platform, I love the videos fam keep doing you bro you’re killing it!⭐️
Thanks very much!
Awesome content and Thank you for doing these videos very well versed in your builds 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Excellent DIYer friendly video.
And also good to see you and a torque wrench together!
I would also file the ring the opposite way, to help with not getting edges on the "outside" of the rings, just for that extra safety. Looking forward to seeing it rip!
Thanks for the tip. After watching Real Street and how he then files them i was expecting the ring to have a burr, but these just felt perfect. Mind you i may have just not been paying enough attention to feel it, due to the oil, or maybe my ebay ring filer is very fine..... hmmm fingers crossed regardless.
@@ZeroTo60Tube It's probably just fine :) I bet you would see some small marks in the bore after turning the crank over a few times if there were something to worry about.
Sorry to hear you've got to move. Glad to hear you had a great sleep after the teardown video. You're not the only one to have a sleepless night over something so small, that you know is off. The subconscious part of your brain is telling you something is wrong in what you've done, but you're sure you've done it right. Just glad I could help you rest that night, as I've said I'm always available for whatever advice I can give Andrew, any time, any day.
Your thinking on the overall weights of pistons, rods, bearings, pins etc. was correct, I usually put the heaviest ones closest to the front and read of the engine, as that's where the higher rotational mass of the flywheel/flex plate and harmonic balancer/crank pulley live, so they will help negate that extra gram or two. Your ring gaps should be pretty good, don't panic about it. Where you measured is the better part, the bores may be tapered with it being narrower at the top, which where you need it to seal the most when the cylinder is firing.
I missed this comment Geordie, sorry about that.
I think it’s pretty crazy that my stock end gaps were about 0.011mm, and my new end gaps per Manley specs at 15-30psi of boost are at 0.023🤔
Now, I know it depends on the ring material and it’s respective coefficient of thermal expansion, but still it’s a bit scary that I had to double the gap😮 …I guess it does make sense, being that the stock n54 wasn’t gapped to be running high boost. I love your channel, by the way and it has provided a TON of insight😎
Very nice assembling guys! Thanks for sharing. Dutch regards, Nico.
I like to take a pen a mark the ring ends slightly so i have a visual reference when filing :)
Nice tip mate, makes sense
@@cocko1135 Yeah, as stated in the video it's easy to overdo the 2nd ring after you "got used" to the hard 1st ring :)
@@nissejarnet too true mate. Kind of like when you do things the wrong way round with the missus 🤔.
Jokes aside it makes complete sense.
watching your video gave me the confidence to tackle my first N54 engine build myself - thanks a ton!
You can do it! Its not the rocket science people make out. However, top tip.... do use a genuine BMW head gasket.
Good vid. As I have mentioned before , if N54 folk want to go even more budget, simply re-gap stock piston rings , pull torque out of the tune and go upgraded head studs. You can push the power much further, perhaps 1000hp or near to it might be within the capabillity of the engines stock gear?People have commented you may want a little bigger 2nd ring gap to the 1st ,to negate flutter but, having said that with the larger gaps in general you have there, it's not necessarily an issue. You will have more 'noise' for the piston assembly, so you may have some knock sensor tune fun ahead of you
I think thats bloody good advice all things considered.
I've built a few engines now both the proper way and the not so proper way and she'll be right man, always error on the bigger side for ring gaps a slightly larger than factory bearing clearance isn't an issue as long as you run thicker oil like you do.. you should see ethels bearing clearances 😅 the only thing I saw that may be a problem is the second ring usually gets a slightly larger gap the the top ring so it doesn't trap Any combustion in there making the rings (flutter) I'm looking forward to seeing it make some noise and some jam man good work 😊🤘 also the slightly lighter rod and piston assembly's will either over balance or under balance the engine Steve Morris has a good video about engine ballancing to.. jaffros vids are crazy detailed I don't know how he does it and I like the way jay explains everything just really simple to understand 😊
yeah, interesting about the second ring gap. The OE ones were like that. Ahh well, i can't put the material back on lol. These 1st rings to now how the largest gaps i am aware off, im sure there are bigger out there, but we will see how this goes. It is what it is. Will check out steves vids, i keep meaning to but never get to it. I saw his shop on an old road kill epiosode and love his drag week build. As for Jafro, that guy is brilliant, over the top and just puts in so much effort.
I just got the same notice to move where I'm living. The owner is selling the place so I have to go. Trying to find the right place at the right price with a double garage Inside of two months while packing everything and I just despise moving. Sigh.... But on the other hand THE PISTONS ARE IN!!! YEA!! That's MUCH more important than a place to live. LOL. Loving it! From what little I've seen and heard there's a lot of "Theory" to engine assembly. So we'll see. But I'm doubting there's going to be any real troubles. IMHO.
Bro. things started getting interesting really, good luck with the build. Rings gap depends on the materials type that was made of as each has its own expansion measurements in regard the specific heat number so it’s best to stick to what the rings manufacture specifications. Are you keeping the OEM compression?
great happy to see fingers crossed 🤞
Well done mate, you threw that together with about as much effort as I’d of put in! I built an ej205 engine and spent ages getting all tolerances and weights perfect n it still blew up stupid thing! Other engines I’ve built I’ve literally just done what you’ve done n they’ve worked perfect!
Sounds like a familiar story haha.
What did you learn on tear down for engine you blew up after rebuild?engine
@@markd2768 don’t use cheap rods 🙈number 4 rod snapped annihilating everything,
Love this series! You're going to be known as the Matt Happel of down under. Sloppy N54 FTW!
Really interesting video. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
I used platigauge on mine did just fine an have beat on the car so far so good. To be honest most diy people that aren’t filming themselves are putting the engines together the same as you are no worries . All I did was reference the book an then adjust according to what tools I had or could justify buying. 👍🏻
Thanks for comment dude, hopefully this one all works ok.
Awesome stuff. Way beyond my skill set but love seeing you give it a crack. When are we going to see Kings 0-60’ times? I’m sure you’ve seen the videos on draggy talk 😂
Love your videos . I got a question so I will be doing a swap on mine the original engine has 218k miles on it and I got a 81k that I will be putting in because I am doing a single turbo swap . So I wanted to re build the original even though there isn't anything wrong with the engine. Would I have to send the block to a machine shop for the cylinder honing or whatever the name it is I can't remember right now as the cylinder walls would be ovaled from mileage or am I over thinking . I would like to throw some rods and pistons
A few questions re. fitting the end caps / conrod bolts. Do you need to fully torque the bolts in order to determine the clearance using the plastiguage? I would have thought that just tightening would be enough. Also, given that you have fully torqued the bolts, should you really be re-using them for the final assembly? Great video - I'm learning a lot.
THIS IS LOOKING GOOD!!!!
Love this engine build series
Amazing video!!!! Thanks again doing the same in next few days!!!!
Love these videos
Love the build progress. When we built 10,000 rpm Honda motors we never balanced anything and had zero issues. Only thing we did different was to chamfer the files ends of the rings slightly to remove any sharp edges from grinding and helped reduce chances of gouging.
Honda engines are very well balanced from factory
The sections of the rings that i ground just felt perfect. Maybe i am tarnished from all the keys i have done which are rough, but fingers crossed its all ok.
Ohhhh also wheres the honda vids? Just stalked your channel. I want to build a K24 one day...
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’m sure they’re fine. You would have noticed any burrs.
Honda motors are well balanced factory. They spent a lot of manpower on there higher teir motors. even to using different sized bearings for clearance. Only video I have up is from my 99 GSR. It was a compete engine job, bored and stroked to 2.0, pushing 280 N/A. This was back before UA-cam was a big thing, lol.
So the ACL Extra clearance are the same as King bearings STD?
You're right. People act like if you don't get everything perfect weighted and perfectly bore/surfaced the motor will blow. But I've seen people swap the heads, pistons, and rods from donor motors while half-ass weighing them and the motors still running today.
i think on a poorly made engine something from 30 years ago, it was important to balance the rotating assembly. They made hardly any power from factory and balancing wasnt important until you wind them up. Now things like these n54s are pretty damn good from factory, and the aftermarket stuff is also well balanced. The need to properly balance isnt there at sub 1000hp levels.
The correct way is balance the rods. Your pistons are fine. You grind each end of the rods to match them. to the nearest gram is fine. In theroy yours in + and - 1gram. You will be fine. Ring gaps are important, especially in a turbo engine.
the tapered plastiguage is probably because you broke it off instead of cutting it which would stretch it slightly
You are spot on..... Makes sense
Lots of good laughs during the commentary 😁😅 so many that's what she said and other innuendo to play off of
Head stuff first is my vote.
I hope that you have put the rings with the correct offset.
Usually the top ring needs to be tighter then the second ring, not looser. about .05mm tighter or so
Great vid! Will definitely be following this with interest. Touch wood this motor holds up to some abuse. Are you planning on revving it out a bit more than factory?
nahh, will keep this around 7000rpm, originally was going to push it to destruction, but with the pending move that wont happen.
I’m excited!!
Hi Andrew build it with common sense and consider everything in perspective and it will run beautifully, my ring gaps from MAHLE was 0.38 top and 0.45 second and running super smooth with almost no oil consumption and minimal blow by in my catch cans
Thanks Eric appreciate the info.
I’d definitely want to see all progress on engine and the unboxing please.
shout out to zero to 60 for dropping these videos !!
Thanks for the appreciate man!
Papadakis Racing has a good video on plastigauge vs sun dial bore gauge and plastigauge was within 0.02 mm
Everything you’ve said so far sounds spot on. My only concern would be bore and piston clearance. Pistons are slighting tapered ( wider at the bottom). Normally measure the piston 1/2 inch down the skirt of the piston.
I had no way to accurately measure them unfortunately. We’ll see what happens
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’ll keep my fingers crossed fyi there’s nothing wrong with the Chinese micrometers, they are very simple use a .5mm thread so one full turn is half a mm. And the bore gauge is just a dial indicator you use to reference off of the micrometer. Wish you guy where close I’d happily loan you mine.
Great stuff man, I know I'm a bit late and catching up with episodes but think how far you've come over the last year, phenomenal
Thanks dude! When i think of zeroto60 as a business and how much money i have lost doing it, i get a bit upset. But then when i think about what i have learnt, its awesome.
FYI you should only file one side of the ring at a time (also in the real st video).
Hay mate nice build ! I just want your honest opinion about max speeding rods parts because in europe there are some controvential opinions about those that they are cheap low quality parts and since they are gonna be the heart of the engine who better from someone who used them .. thanks keep up !!!
These rods were fine. Although some of their gear is terrible. You get what you payfor. The con rods are not much cheaper than brand name ones. Where the max coil overs are 1/4 price of a brand name coil over. So i see why they are not great.
Only file one edge of the ring and clean with trans fluid before re measure
I got a question is there a way the piston goes to the front or back do thry have a mark? i mean the piston has an arrow or someting to know the way i need to put it so it dosent touch with valve if i put it wrong
From memory they can go either way, the difference between intake and exhaust valve minimal.
I broke a piston on my n54 due to my own negligence.
Looks like I just need to replace the pistons. I see traum are doing a 84mm 10.5:1 as well as JE. Is that compression okay or should I try and drop the compression from the standard 10.2:1?
I’m running stage 4 ebay turbos with meth and the normal other bolt ons.
Speak to your tuner. With hybrids it can be benificial to relay on compression that boost, to make the power. Hybrids clog really around that 25psi make, so you will make power more efficiently at with a higher comp engine. However your issue with be fueling. Pump and Meth will take the higher comp ration like and ethanol tune. So you may be better off with stock or even lowr comp pistons. Again speak to your tuner he will know how to best maximise your setup.
I watched most of the video but I did not see you mention piston to wall clearance.
With those pistons you are using they will require larger piston to wall clearance than stock.
Usually will need anywhere from .0035"-.004" clearance
I dont have the bore guage to measure it, however they are made to suit standard bore size. Its a ghetto build for sure. But so far, its working ok the new motor has gone wuicker than we ever did with the stock one...... fingers crossed it keeps together
Do the ring haps have to be “clocked” i.e ring 2 gap 90 degrees to the ring 1 gap etc. ? i just remember having to do this when i did rings on my motorbike engine.
Ok so read a few comments below, looks like this has been addressed
6 thou of ring gap per inch of bore up to 30psi
Did you hone the bore? Forged pistons usually like a bit more clearance
Nah, too expensive. Machine work like that would add close $3000aud to the build straight away. Leaving the crank in, was crucial to keeping the cost down
What was the piston to bore clearance. If you mentioned it I missed it. Great channel. Sorry about the move.
I had no way to accurately measure it. The pistons do not wobble as much as the stock ones did. But they still wobble a little on the wrist pin.
22:10 when you pushed that piston in to set the ring the piston seemed a little small like you will get piston slap. Also you may want to check to see if any cylinders egged out so you should be drop the piston upside down from top and spin it around, if it is egged it won't spin. Update: once they were all in it seems okay.
Obviously didnt measure it, but they dont wobble as much as the stock pistons.
Do the rings gaps not have a specific orientation on the piston?
I have never seen a mechanic properly align them, however you are "supposed to". You are supposed to do a lot of things that i didnt..... hehe
best realistic video ive ever seen
thank you
nacizane tavsiyem ACL yatak kullanma sonradan kaplandığı için ölçülerinde sapma oluyor mikro metre ile ölçersen görürsün, kollarım kep lerini cıkarmak ıcın pense değil kol cıvatalarını tam sokmeden geri çakmalısın daha kolay cıkar. teşekkürler emegın ıcın.
You might want to consider picking up an M3 chassis to put that thing in, if you're aiming for 800 wheel. Looking great so far!
Man M3 chassis are worth mega money in aus now.
Jafromobile is an awesome channel, definitely an underrated channel.
Couldn't agree more, so much appreciation for what he does. Its such good content compared to the click bait rubbish about jack pads that seems to do so well on the tube.
hm maxpeeding rods im on the fence on those. I've seen videos of people putting them in hondas and 2js but now i see you putting them going into a n54.
The record holder for 60-130 n54 is maxspeeding rodded.....
Let’s see the whole build….document all of it…more vids for us lol
Hi dude. I have searched your videos but I couldn't find the information
.. What sealant do you use for the bedplate? I have seen that some people simply use good quality black silicone (like Victor Rainz) or injectable loctatite but without using the nozzle. mmm like a sandwich. I would like to know your opinion. greetings!!
Hey mate, i never took the cranks out, so never did the bedplate sealing. Sorry, i can't comment with any experience there.
Greetings! During the first part of the video where you’re discussing weight differences, there’s two small dark rings that have a gap in them. They’re between your paper and the pistons and they’re sitting on just the table. What are those? Found one of those earlier and can’t find anything on it for the life of me. TIA!
Do you mean the piston pin circlips
@@ZeroTo60Tube I reckon I didn’t seem them clearly. What I’ve found is like a plastic/rubber thing that looks identical. Thanks for the help though!
Awesome stuff, i notice you didnt mention anything about ring gap orientation, is it not that important?
I just randomly spun them. They will spin anyway, so should be fine as long as the gaps are not directly above each other. Again this is one of those things, i don't think experienced mechanics worry about
@@ZeroTo60Tube i did wonder if they even stay put
Dont worry about criticism on YouTurd, either it will be constructive criticism and you learn something or it's a hater. If someone is providing valid critiques it is pretty easy to read right away. Fortunately on this channel I see way more valid constructive comments from encouraging fellow car enthusiasts and professionals.
Yeah man, we got a pretty damn good crew in our comments section!
Hey buddy I’m literally so close to having all my parts here for my built motor with the twin 53/53 MMPs and my head is almost done being ported also! Question.. I really really need you to send me a link or where I can buy the Head Bolts you used on your motor also. I’m going to do exactly what you did for the head bolts this is last thing I haven’t ordered yet please help me out!
Hey man. ZD30 Nissan Patrol head bolts are what i used. They are 1mm shorter than n54. Same thread pitch but 12mm instead of 11mm. While you are in there would recomend time certing the block. Its anothe few hundred bucks to get it done, but will be proper legit setup.
Hey man, can you shoot me an email about this. I have a new plan. Which someone else recommended to me and I think it’s better than what I did. But basically n57 head bolts. Using that torque sequence. Not guessing like I had to.
Just wondering have you heard of the crank hub issue with the n54 when they are DCT or manual when running big power. I know the n55 is bad for it but I just been seeing a few videos about it.. its not so bad in the Autos tho..
I haven't head of many failing when factored fitted, but once they get touched, they do like to spin apparently. The crank hub is one of the main reasons i wanted to leave the crank in the block. I dont want to unsettle its fitment.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah same here i think...
@@ZeroTo60Tube bmw has released an updated version of the crankhub. Vehicular DIY goes over it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/7-1LJkLcJNQ/v-deo.html
But I agree with your thoughts of not touching the old one of it's still factory.
I live out Springfield way, I have a Ute and access to car trailer. If you need a hand moving stuff from your house in 2 months don’t hesitate !
Thanks so much man. Really appreciate it.
Love the t shirt!
Lets hope its not too relevant
I saw that when you compresed rings you oiled them and randomly turned, i hope the rings "locks"/"gaps" are shifted between each other by 120 degrees. otherwise they could settle wrong and then you make low compresion 😣
Thats a Myth bud. The rings will rotate all over the place.
@@samwalters4205 No is not myth lol, all the engines manuals will say that you can not install piston rings aligned, and yes they all rotate around, so if you keep them offset they will never align because they all rotate at the same speeds lol
I second the myth theory, as do most experienced mechanics. The people i have watched put engines together just make sure they are offset.
@@fabini14 it kind of is. It's just general good practice and for the few seconds it takes why the heck not.
As for them settling in the same spot. They don't settle. Nor will they rotate at the same rate.
The conditions applied to the first and second ring are different, they are also different profiles. Typically top rings have a rounded edge to them. The barrel type, these seal against the cylinder wall due to the pressure behind them.
The second rings typically a more of a tapered design with the wider part at the bottom.
There is a lot you will see in these manuals that isn't strictly true lot of it is due to an age old phrase in engineering that halts progress "Well, we've always done it that way" they haven't truly analysed the situation. There is also a lot you wont see in those manuals.
For example. Lapping rings top and bottom on a surface plate then lapping the edges using diamond paste in another block checking using a microscope to get a consistent pattern. A block specifically for the purpose. Its for the removal of the run in process.
But that's a different world to the needs of 99.99% of engine builds. I mean engines built to that standard typically get water and oil at operating temperature pumped through them on the dyno. Fired up. Light to mid load to knock the brand new cams in for 10 mins. Then get leak down tested to verify reporting back typically in the 98% plus range. Then get absolutely sent briefly again to verify before they are bolted into a car. Run for half a season of racing before being torn down again for another rebuild. Typically around the 10 hour mark.
Sucks massive about possibly having to move but understandable from the Landlord.
Anyway, those pistons looks sexy AF. Everything looks good to me so far with your thoughts mate, well done.
Once again, you're a brave man.
Thanks man, yeah i really do not want to move. Its a problem, considering all the cars we have.
@@ZeroTo60Tube following the flooding we could imagine that there would be industrial areas with vacant lots as some will give up/in. But as we know, residential is difficult at the moment in our area. Fingers crossed.
Thanks for doing it like this. If it works great. If not then at least we find out. Hell before you and one other UA-camr everyone said don’t buy Chinese turbos. Now it’s common. Go figure?
Will the maxpeeding conrods fit oem pistons?
This generation does. But i dont know why you would use stock pistons. They are as bad as the stock rods. Get some china or amp44 pistons.
@@ZeroTo60Tube cheers.
I saw when you weight the old piston & conrod, you forget the weight in the bolts
correct. however i the measurements on the new ones on the sheet don't have the rings. The total weight was around 30-40 grams lighter on the new ones.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I see ok. Anyway I just saw someone recently uploaded their YT video on n54 crank hub failed. Are you going to upgrade your crank hub?
Hope you offset the ring gaps across all 3 rings so you don't lose compression/burn oil. Otherwise looking forward to the end result.
I just randomly spun them. They will spin anyway, so should be fine as long as the gaps are not directly above each other. Again this is one of those things, i don't think experienced mechanics worry about.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Randomly spun is fine, what @Peak traveller is getting at is the problem is if they are all aligned, then you can lose compression and burn oil. I usually set the top two rings 180° apart, the oil control ring gaps (given it's a3 piece ring) I set them about 120° apart, and have never had an issue. Any difference in the ring gap is great, and you are correct, they will rotate with the engine running.
If you want to run 800whp you’ll need a head stud solution. Arp head studs (preferably 11mm all around) would be best. Even the 11mm main and the 9mm outer head stud kit would be alright at 800whp. Unfortunately lifted my head on my built motor with 3k miles after pushing around 32psi on a single turbo set up. My buddy that built his motor around the same time as me experienced the same issue
Heard of quite a few built motors doing it. But not many stock. Did you have ARPs in it when it lifted? Also how was the head torqued when it was built? Lastly did it damage the threads when it lifted?
I had stock head bolts in it when it lifted. They were torqued to spec using a snap on electric torque wrench. As well as the correct pattern. Thankfully the threads were okay. But when I tore it apart 3 days ago I saw coolant burn marks on the outer corners of cyl 6 which means the 9mm outer bolts gave out.
@@ZeroTo60Tube And I was running about 32psi and some spicy timing when it lifted. Estimated 795-815 whp
The middle ring needs to have a larger ring gap than the top ring to avoid to “trap” gasses. Hopefully you get what I mean 😂
Hello thats incredible !
And were are the pistons from ?
These pistons were AMP44s
@@ZeroTo60Tube how much horsepower can they can they take ?
@@donatratkoceri2836 unfortunately i have no idea. I ran them
@@ZeroTo60Tube ah thank you and sorry to bother you but wich bearings have you used on it ?
put the loose rings in the back cylinders, those run the hottest so the extra gap should help you. Thats my thinking at least
Well where were you 8 months ago haha
Niiiice... 2 rhings
1. Fore sure the unboxing
2. You forgot to clock your rings 😕
I just randomly spun them. They will spin anyway, so should be fine as long as the gaps are not directly above each other. Again this is one of those things, i don't think experienced mechanics worry about
For your info there’s 40thou per mm so .5 mm is 20thou
Jay @ realstreet is the man. I want his shop to build an N54! But seems like he has enough 2JZ customers for life. 😅
Wonder how long until they do. They stock parts for them, so i am sure it will happen sooner or later.
Foot pounds? Or inch pounds on aluminum?
Depends what you are doing, but just in case you are confused on this video, the rods are steel.
Did you hone or bore out the cylinders? Just wondering
Nah. They still had decent cross hatching.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I can't wait to see this thing putting down big hp. Excellent content as always!
Didn't you use the kingtec racing components ?
No
@@ZeroTo60TubeI have a 4B11 N/A lancer turbo'd, can't find forged internals that can fit it. I wouldn't be pushing too much power, just like 330whp tops. Would you recommend the KingTec as they make custom internals?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I want to push power reliably without having to worry about losing the engine
We did not even gap our JE Piston rings, because normal size and had 0 problems with the previous one. Think theyre measured to be precise from the factory.
I kinda feel like these would have also been fine for most applications. The top ring is the only one that had a "big" change. Which hopefully comes in helpful for what the motor will go through.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Im going single turbo and aiming for 750 bhp. You think it will be fine? Dailying the car and not tracking, should be fine, just wanna hear your thoughts.
Stressed about not gapping them afterwards..
@@akseln54 Most likely will be fine. The singles dont load the bottom end up like a twin turbo setup. The back pressure from a twin setup really gets the cylinders very hot. Where a decent single will help get the heat away. I think you will be fine. A lot of guys dont realise how much a high power twin setup stressed the motors.
Tell me, are these by any chance Russian pistons from eBay?
They are the amp44 ones
Yeah, no need for video on cams or head. Lamik controller unboxing and install is more interesting and useful. Not enough information out on that just yet. Almost makes me want to bend a rod to build the bottom end, lol. Great video and work on that motor.
Noted!
This has nothing to do with the video but do you know anyone sunny coast based that would do a dct swap? Have a full donor car coming
I do know of a few people that would do the hard work, i don't know anyone that can do the wiring. It took me around 40-50 hours to fully complete my swap, thats stripping the donor working everything out refitting and testing. So its big money if you are paying for a drive in drive out fully tested setup.
If you were a filter coffee snob you would have that .10 gram scale.
tight. Like not a good tight - but pain in the arse tight! Love it
Oh man. You have to move? What a pain. I feel for you.
Man, its a right pain, but our landlord actually lost his house last week in the floods. We are only renting, so can't complain and could always be worse.
Niceeeeee 🔥
Thanks 🔥
22:42 i hate to be the person to correct another person, but i do believe you meant thousandths of an inch, which would be written out as 0.015" and please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. consider this the least important comment otherwise :P
That’s .05 mm clearance that’s 2 thou clearance not enough you should be around 2.5 to 3thou maximum that being
.075mm max clearance and .06 mm minimum factory clearance isn’t good when you want to make power as the tolerance in bearing clearance isn’t enough for the extra heat you produce in using more boost than factory as the cylinder pressure increases dramatically
Google boost Vs compression ratio and you should find a table that reads your compression ratio increase to the amount of boost you put in and you will be extremely surprised by what stress your putting your engine under
👍👍
Real world build. Love it! Keyboard warrior's can suck it in their moms basement.
did lol