On the upper control arm bolts/nuts they have a little U shaped tab on the end that hook onto the body. I thought the purpose of those was that you could loosen and tighten the nuts without needing another person to hold the bolts. Once it spins enough it'll hit the metal and stop it from spinning. Just torqued mine down to 70, hope I didn't bend or damage them doing that. In your video you say to get someone to hold the bolt.
You are correct in that the tabs ARE to keep it from spinning. However, there are 2 things that can happen that I didn’t realize at first. First, one of the nuts was so stuck that it spun the bolt and bent the tab up. Second, when you’re tightening the firewall side, you lose a 1/4 turn or so with the slack the tab allows. If you don’t have a ratcheting wrench with a high tooth count where you don’t have to turn it far to catch the next cog, then that 1/4 turn costs a lot of extra time and frustration. That was the case with mine.
Nice video on the process. I wish I had made one when I did my swap. You should have checked my spreadsheet which had all bolt/nut sizes and torque spec. Would have been happy to help as well seeing as I already have the tools from doing mine, including that E-star on the rear brake calipers. Would be happy having exchanged my mechanical help for your tech help in disabling my air suspension. Never bothered trying as I messed up my compass when just trying to change tire size….lol
Good job on the video. We will link it from our website and get even more views for you. Brought back memories from when I designed the kit… all the ‘fun’ 😉
Awesome! Thank you! After helping my brother install a lift on his Nissan Frontier, I really appreciated the fact that RRO had the conversion parts & did the assembly. That saved me a lot of trouble. Keep up the good work!!
Quite an involved process for this mod, but well worth it by the looks of it. So there are no dash lights or software problems so far? Thanks for doing the video. it's a big help.
Nope! I still need to remove the Uconnect menu options (Tire Jack Mode, etc), but no errors now. After I disabled QL in Alfa, I did still get an error until I disconnected the ASCM. Once I did that and did the ABS Initialization, it was clear.
Man that was a job. Swapped out son's air suspension on his 2012 GC Overland with 5.7. Found out he needed break job also. Felt like i had been run over next morning.😂
I get it. Getting old sucks! Luckily, I had some help, so it wasn’t all on me. I’ve been impressed how long the stock brakes have lasted, so we aren’t there just yet.
It took about 7 weeks. I went with their QL conversion, and they said they were waiting on some of those parts since they were also assembling it for me.
Great video. Wish I had it when I installed everything. I love the lift. Only issue I’m having is the double rubber upper ball joint boots. Any time it rains mine fill with water and I have to re-grease them to push the water out, I’m talking a lot of water and my grease leaks out so much. There’s got to be a boot off some other vehicle that is one piece that would work but I haven’t researched it yet.
The only one you need to worry about is the original that covers the joint itself. The 2nd one doesn’t need any grease in it. It’s just there as a spacer to make up the difference.
advise for removing the front strut without removing cv axels - loosen your lower control arm , youre already going to need an alignment anyways . thank me later.
18:22 - did you attach the sensor back to the new control arm? Conflicting reports on if this is for the ride height or the headlight leveling sensor. Thank you
No, the adjusting headlights were only thru 2018, IIRC. My 19 has the HID’s, but they do not adjust. If you have the adjusting headlights, then you’ll want to hook up the one on the passenger side. The RRO UCA’s have a ball socket that it connects to.
@@funkywk2 Thank you for the reply. I have a 2012 WK2 Overland w/ HID as well. So that ball socket on the RRO UCA is not for the ride height sensor then? There is an identical socket and piece of plastic on the driver side, but the RRO UCA does not have the ball socket on that side.
Have you had any problems or regrets on the change you did to your suspension? I am looking into changing mine out as well but I wanted to get some feed back first. Thank you
Absolutely no regrets. Be sure you get the correct springs for your mods and engine. I went with the stiffest springs (Hemi, F & R bumpers) and actually wish they were a little stiffer. They ride just like QL, but with more control and no floating.
@@funkywk2 I currently have airlinks installed and have not put them to offroad use but I will this weekend ( in a few hours after writing this) at Windrock. I can tell you now from driving from Texas to Oliver Springs TN that when I get back they will probably be changed out before my next trip. I have the the same (Hemi) front and rear bumper you have along with other body protection that put additional weight on my WK2 so I will let Rocky Road know when I purchase their suspension lift kit. Another concern I have is disabling the air suspension and it having any affect on the other components that relate to when it is in rock, mud, or sand mode--other than raising and lowering the jeep? btw the floor jack was a tremendous help with leveling the front bumper--it took me a great deal of time to get adjusted correctly - thank you!
Does it ride better then the air suspension and give you better flex. Right now I’m running airlinks and the ride is pretty stiff. Going over bumps is crazy. Other then that it’s been working fine for 176k miles. Also were you able to correct the tire size in anyway to correct the speedometer and mileage.
The ride quality is as good as QL is stock, but more controlled and not as bouncy/floaty. The articulation might be a little better, but it’s not QL that is the limiting factor. The sway bar end links limit flex the most, as do the CV axles. I used AlfaOBD to correct tire size in the video.
i am in canada in whitehorse yukon i want to change on my grand cherokee summit 2017 so from where can i buy the parts please guide me which websites and what do i need to order thank you
@@deeppannu608 Rocky Road Outfitters sells a full swap kit, or you can buy the OME lift from someplace like Kolak Performance and source the needed parts yourself. Not sure about any Canadian-specific sellers. Check out JeepGarage for more info about whats’s needed, etc.
Awesome video! I came across this after I got my RRO Old Man emu lift (air suspension deleted) Same kit as you with HD springs. Since the swap I have had a clunk (front driver) going over bumps especially at lower speed. Did you have any issues?
It’s the front endlinks. Stock set is too long and hit the fork at the bottom of the strut. I’m going to swap to a shorter one. The OEM SRT links are a little shorter, but I don’t know if it’s enough.
@@funkywk2it was definitely the end links… found an aftermarket set that was slimmer at the pivots… Replaced and the clunk is gone. As a plus have grease points. Thanks again Cheers
Im thinking to get this kit from RRO. 2019 jeep gc limited. Any recomendation before installation? Im trying to find out everything i need before do it by myself to make sure everything its okay. Thanks!! And nice ride!!
Figure out your long term plans ahead of time. Winch, bumpers, roof rack…. Anything that will add weight needs to be accounted for. I have no regrets getting the springs we have (stiffest - 3121/3160) due to our weight. Also, the RRO UCA’s keep the alignment in spec, so also worth it.
On the screen for it, it tells you what steps to follow. I’ve also used this post as a guide: offroadpassport.com/forums/topic/5690-how-to-calibrate-speedometer-change-tire-size-on-2021-jeep-grand-cherokee-wk2-using-alfaobd/
It is close to Offroad 2 with Air suspension, which is 3-4 inches over normal ride height. I don’t know where a coil spring WK2 sits normally, so they may be basing it off of that (assuming it sits a little higher).
Its terrific offroad. Much more controlled, no banging from maxed out struts, much more comfortable. I’m not sure how much more wheel travel it has due to the sway bars, etc, but I think it could with some changes.
@@marine0331inf I do have the tow package, but I actually went HD in the rear due to our rear bumper and load when we’re camping and wheeling. It’s at least an extra 800 #’s, probably more. With the Wilco and RotoPax on the back, I was actually sagging a little. And, I chose not to level it, so I’m gonna look into helper bags.
Quadralift isn't unreliable at all. People just don't understand how to maintain it, that's all. If atmospheric air gets into the system for any reason, it's going to cause issues. That's because there is moisture in atmospheric air and moisture causes all kinds of issues from internal corrosion to freezing in cold temps. So to keep your air suspension working properly, make sure it's filled with nitrogen and it should work just fine for decades. I'm on my 3rd air suspension Jeep and have never had an issue with any of mine.
Glad your experience was better than mine. I know there are more happy customers out there than people with QL issues or it wouldn’t be viable for Jeep to keep using it across platforms. However, that’s a pretty broad statement to make regarding all the people that are having issues with QL. Especially when most of them seem to have also had their suspensions serviced at dealerships. ALL of the work on mine was done at Jeep dealerships under warranty, so, unless the dealers aren’t properly refilling the tank with Nitrogen, that’s not why it failed. Our first issue was the valve block on the compressor, which was allowing the whole front end to leak down. The system was nitrogen-filled from the factory. The second was the rear bag blowing out. Neither were due to incorrect gas type. Most others have leaks and such, which are from the flimsy fittings used to connect the air lines. I had less issues on my 07 TBSS that pulled outside air for the load-leveling rear suspension.
@@funkywk2 True, an airbag blowing out isn't because air got into the system. But a failed valve block can absolutely be caused by air (moisture) getting into the system. In fact, it's a leading cause. The issue with these air suspension systems is that they have the ability to pull in outside air if the nitrogen charge get low. And since it's a sealed system, then the only way for the nitrogen charge to get low is if there's a leak. That said, there are so common areas that are prone to leaking with age. The elbow connecters on the top of each bag (under the hood in the front) have an o-ring inside them that gets brittle with heat and age. Anyway, my point is that these are robust systems that can last a long time without issues if you simply maintain them and make sure they are properly charged with nitrogen. My current 2019 Trailhawk is the same year as yours and you really shouldn't need to scrap the air suspension on a Jeep that new.
Awesome video and thanks for leading the way for us schmucks that haven't decided to do this yet!
Thanks for sharing and uploading!
I just completed my spring swap last night and I'm stuck on the ABS errors. ..back out to the garage I go. :) Thanks for the video.
Just saw your follow up post on FB. Glad it worked out!
On the upper control arm bolts/nuts they have a little U shaped tab on the end that hook onto the body. I thought the purpose of those was that you could loosen and tighten the nuts without needing another person to hold the bolts. Once it spins enough it'll hit the metal and stop it from spinning. Just torqued mine down to 70, hope I didn't bend or damage them doing that. In your video you say to get someone to hold the bolt.
You are correct in that the tabs ARE to keep it from spinning. However, there are 2 things that can happen that I didn’t realize at first. First, one of the nuts was so stuck that it spun the bolt and bent the tab up. Second, when you’re tightening the firewall side, you lose a 1/4 turn or so with the slack the tab allows. If you don’t have a ratcheting wrench with a high tooth count where you don’t have to turn it far to catch the next cog, then that 1/4 turn costs a lot of extra time and frustration. That was the case with mine.
Sick build !! Love it !
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Nice video on the process. I wish I had made one when I did my swap. You should have checked my spreadsheet which had all bolt/nut sizes and torque spec.
Would have been happy to help as well seeing as I already have the tools from doing mine, including that E-star on the rear brake calipers. Would be happy having exchanged my mechanical help for your tech help in disabling my air suspension. Never bothered trying as I messed up my compass when just trying to change tire size….lol
That’d have been cool!!!
If you still have the stuff where you can hook it up, we can still disable the error message (and change your tire size 😬)
Good job on the video. We will link it from our website and get even more views for you.
Brought back memories from when I designed the kit… all the ‘fun’ 😉
Awesome! Thank you! After helping my brother install a lift on his Nissan Frontier, I really appreciated the fact that RRO had the conversion parts & did the assembly. That saved me a lot of trouble. Keep up the good work!!
Quite an involved process for this mod, but well worth it by the looks of it. So there are no dash lights or software problems so far? Thanks for doing the video. it's a big help.
Nope! I still need to remove the Uconnect menu options (Tire Jack Mode, etc), but no errors now. After I disabled QL in Alfa, I did still get an error until I disconnected the ASCM. Once I did that and did the ABS Initialization, it was clear.
Thank you very much for your video!
Man that was a job. Swapped out son's air suspension on his 2012 GC Overland with 5.7. Found out he needed break job also. Felt like i had been run over next morning.😂
I get it. Getting old sucks! Luckily, I had some help, so it wasn’t all on me. I’ve been impressed how long the stock brakes have lasted, so we aren’t there just yet.
Looks killer. How long did it take to get the stuff from RRO?
It took about 7 weeks. I went with their QL conversion, and they said they were waiting on some of those parts since they were also assembling it for me.
Great video. Wish I had it when I installed everything. I love the lift. Only issue I’m having is the double rubber upper ball joint boots. Any time it rains mine fill with water and I have to re-grease them to push the water out, I’m talking a lot of water and my grease leaks out so much. There’s got to be a boot off some other vehicle that is one piece that would work but I haven’t researched it yet.
The only one you need to worry about is the original that covers the joint itself. The 2nd one doesn’t need any grease in it. It’s just there as a spacer to make up the difference.
That's a serious front bumper!
😬 I love it! It’s the Offroad Animal Predator. The extra clearance is awesome, plus low-mounted winch.
advise for removing the front strut without removing cv axels - loosen your lower control arm , youre already going to need an alignment anyways . thank me later.
I heard the same nagging when I got the entire under carriage done with 6 monkeys stuff
18:22 - did you attach the sensor back to the new control arm? Conflicting reports on if this is for the ride height or the headlight leveling sensor. Thank you
No, the adjusting headlights were only thru 2018, IIRC. My 19 has the HID’s, but they do not adjust.
If you have the adjusting headlights, then you’ll want to hook up the one on the passenger side. The RRO UCA’s have a ball socket that it connects to.
@@funkywk2 Thank you for the reply. I have a 2012 WK2 Overland w/ HID as well. So that ball socket on the RRO UCA is not for the ride height sensor then? There is an identical socket and piece of plastic on the driver side, but the RRO UCA does not have the ball socket on that side.
I think the front passenger side was for both, as each corner has its own valve/level.
Noooo not red threadlocker
Have you had any problems or regrets on the change you did to your suspension? I am looking into changing mine out as well but I wanted to get some feed back first. Thank you
Absolutely no regrets. Be sure you get the correct springs for your mods and engine. I went with the stiffest springs (Hemi, F & R bumpers) and actually wish they were a little stiffer. They ride just like QL, but with more control and no floating.
@@funkywk2 I currently have airlinks installed and have not put them to offroad use but I will this weekend ( in a few hours after writing this) at Windrock. I can tell you now from driving from Texas to Oliver Springs TN that when I get back they will probably be changed out before my next trip. I have the the same (Hemi) front and rear bumper you have along with other body protection that put additional weight on my WK2 so I will let Rocky Road know when I purchase their suspension lift kit.
Another concern I have is disabling the air suspension and it having any affect on the other components that relate to when it is in rock, mud, or sand mode--other than raising and lowering the jeep?
btw the floor jack was a tremendous help with leveling the front bumper--it took me a great deal of time to get adjusted correctly - thank you!
I’ve used mud and rock modes quite a bit and without issue, so you should be just fine. Glad I actually had a helpful tip. :)
When i bought my wk2 i made sure to stay away from quadra lift🤐
Does it ride better then the air suspension and give you better flex. Right now I’m running airlinks and the ride is pretty stiff. Going over bumps is crazy. Other then that it’s been working fine for 176k miles.
Also were you able to correct the tire size in anyway to correct the speedometer and mileage.
The ride quality is as good as QL is stock, but more controlled and not as bouncy/floaty.
The articulation might be a little better, but it’s not QL that is the limiting factor. The sway bar end links limit flex the most, as do the CV axles.
I used AlfaOBD to correct tire size in the video.
I have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk. What did it cost to do the entire conversion?
Yup saved this video
i am in canada in whitehorse yukon i want to change on my grand cherokee summit 2017 so from where can i buy the parts please guide me which websites and what do i need to order thank you
@@deeppannu608 Rocky Road Outfitters sells a full swap kit, or you can buy the OME lift from someplace like Kolak Performance and source the needed parts yourself. Not sure about any Canadian-specific sellers. Check out JeepGarage for more info about whats’s needed, etc.
Awesome video! I came across this after I got my RRO Old Man emu lift (air suspension deleted) Same kit as you with HD springs. Since the swap I have had a clunk (front driver) going over bumps especially at lower speed. Did you have any issues?
It’s the front endlinks. Stock set is too long and hit the fork at the bottom of the strut. I’m going to swap to a shorter one. The OEM SRT links are a little shorter, but I don’t know if it’s enough.
@@funkywk2 awesome!! Sounds bad, and couldn’t figure it out; will swap the links and see how it goes! Appreciate your response.
Cheers
Just realized I’m running SRT endlinks right now and it still hits. I’ll post my update here when I fix it!
@@funkywk2it was definitely the end links… found an aftermarket set that was slimmer at the pivots… Replaced and the clunk is gone.
As a plus have grease points.
Thanks again
Cheers
@@thecanadianguy364can you please share which ones you ended up going with? I need to replace mine, thank you!
wow professional 👍
please give me website for the parts
thank you so much 🙏
@@ossamagaisi I got everything from Rocky Road Outfitters.
Im thinking to get this kit from RRO.
2019 jeep gc limited.
Any recomendation before installation? Im trying to find out everything i need before do it by myself to make sure everything its okay.
Thanks!! And nice ride!!
Figure out your long term plans ahead of time. Winch, bumpers, roof rack…. Anything that will add weight needs to be accounted for.
I have no regrets getting the springs we have (stiffest - 3121/3160) due to our weight.
Also, the RRO UCA’s keep the alignment in spec, so also worth it.
Does this method work on Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 Diesel Ssummit Canadian?
@@ElhassenGIS Yes. QuadraLift is the same. You’ll likely want the same springs I got or just the next step down since you have the diesel (heavy).
@funkywk2 Yes, I am currently studying the development of my love to an invincible monster, thank you very much for explaining
Hi , you didn’t show how you reset ABS initialization? Mine won’t let me click start, to reset it
On the screen for it, it tells you what steps to follow. I’ve also used this post as a guide: offroadpassport.com/forums/topic/5690-how-to-calibrate-speedometer-change-tire-size-on-2021-jeep-grand-cherokee-wk2-using-alfaobd/
Thank I will give it another try.
Hello. Are you interested in installing Window Modular Storage Panel Pair in your car? 😊
Bro... how much lift did you achieve with this setup? I have a 2018 v6. I was told only up to 2 inches. Yours looks like more than 2.
It is close to Offroad 2 with Air suspension, which is 3-4 inches over normal ride height. I don’t know where a coil spring WK2 sits normally, so they may be basing it off of that (assuming it sits a little higher).
Man I love that what size tires do you run
LT275/65r18 Cooper Rugged Treks (32.5” diameter)
How is it offroad? Better wheel travel?
Its terrific offroad. Much more controlled, no banging from maxed out struts, much more comfortable. I’m not sure how much more wheel travel it has due to the sway bars, etc, but I think it could with some changes.
@@funkywk2 thanks man. I have a trailhawk like yours and I'm at 100k km right now with no issues with quadralift so far.
Does your drive mode selector give errors if you move it from auto?
No. What mode are you trying? Rock mode only works in 4 Low.
Does this still fit in the garage with the roof rack?
Yes, with several inches of clearance.
@@gspfunk sweeet👍
Another question, do you have the trailer package equipment on your jeep and factor in the spring rate?
@@marine0331inf I do have the tow package, but I actually went HD in the rear due to our rear bumper and load when we’re camping and wheeling. It’s at least an extra 800 #’s, probably more. With the Wilco and RotoPax on the back, I was actually sagging a little. And, I chose not to level it, so I’m gonna look into helper bags.
@@gspfunk let me know any updates on it👍
Thats what he said? 34:17 HAHA
Quadralift isn't unreliable at all. People just don't understand how to maintain it, that's all. If atmospheric air gets into the system for any reason, it's going to cause issues. That's because there is moisture in atmospheric air and moisture causes all kinds of issues from internal corrosion to freezing in cold temps.
So to keep your air suspension working properly, make sure it's filled with nitrogen and it should work just fine for decades.
I'm on my 3rd air suspension Jeep and have never had an issue with any of mine.
Glad your experience was better than mine. I know there are more happy customers out there than people with QL issues or it wouldn’t be viable for Jeep to keep using it across platforms. However, that’s a pretty broad statement to make regarding all the people that are having issues with QL. Especially when most of them seem to have also had their suspensions serviced at dealerships.
ALL of the work on mine was done at Jeep dealerships under warranty, so, unless the dealers aren’t properly refilling the tank with Nitrogen, that’s not why it failed.
Our first issue was the valve block on the compressor, which was allowing the whole front end to leak down. The system was nitrogen-filled from the factory. The second was the rear bag blowing out. Neither were due to incorrect gas type.
Most others have leaks and such, which are from the flimsy fittings used to connect the air lines.
I had less issues on my 07 TBSS that pulled outside air for the load-leveling rear suspension.
@@funkywk2 True, an airbag blowing out isn't because air got into the system. But a failed valve block can absolutely be caused by air (moisture) getting into the system. In fact, it's a leading cause. The issue with these air suspension systems is that they have the ability to pull in outside air if the nitrogen charge get low. And since it's a sealed system, then the only way for the nitrogen charge to get low is if there's a leak. That said, there are so common areas that are prone to leaking with age. The elbow connecters on the top of each bag (under the hood in the front) have an o-ring inside them that gets brittle with heat and age.
Anyway, my point is that these are robust systems that can last a long time without issues if you simply maintain them and make sure they are properly charged with nitrogen. My current 2019 Trailhawk is the same year as yours and you really shouldn't need to scrap the air suspension on a Jeep that new.