you have moved the turbo over - to clear the 3 inch inlet ! i have one but was scared to grind away at my new engine ! mine was a ej205 = brought a ej207 ra sti brand new short block = spun 2 rod bearings at 268,000 klm.
I didn’t have to grind any of the engine block or gearbox bell housing with that setup mate, the turbo exhaust housing is manufactured in such a way that it does Infact clear everything whilst bolting to the original design exhaust up pipe
Hey mate, i saw that video interview you did with another lad and i had been thinking about your build heaps since then. Was very happy i stumblee across this video, didnt even realise it was the same car until i saw those canards on the bumper ! Very nice build, very inspiring. Thank you.
Just watched your feature on LLF, and I HAD to look up your YT channel. Fantastic build, mate. The most impressive part is that you did it all by yourself (with the help of a couple of friends, of course). I love that you drive it like you stole it, the way it's meant to be driven! Truly an inspiration. I hope you keep the videos coming, because you have yourself a new subscriber.
Very nice work, but lightened crank pullies and flywheels do jack all for performance and add clutch shudder and weird rev hangs. Coming from personal experience.
Cheers mate, both have been on for over 3 years and I’ve noticed zero difference tbh, I think with the short crank and opposing piston design of the Subaru ej, it’s pretty well balanced. Has little effect to the rotating assembly. Certainly no shudders or Rev hangs
This was some time ago now mate, I’m on a set of spec c type Ra-R Hawkeye cams now and a pulsar g35-900 turbo, amongst other bits like 😅 Headlights are factory units and I’ve fitted bi-xenon projectors, been in around 6 years now 😅
Lol, fair play mate you've done a nice job. I've got to the point of running out of things to do but my headlights keep going cloudy and don't really want to change too much from the factory look.
Wow man loving the work I’m shitting me self with doing the work myself but I guess why not ! Also I’ll not want to run AVCS atm you think I can make some decent power with my ej205 head and 207 bottom end with some goodies in the heads
Yeah give it a shot mate, that’s all I’ve ever done 💪 You’ll still make good power with that setup, just the avcs helps with the spool up on the larger turbos, better mid range and lower down 👌
@@5501pickopicko what turbo should I run gor max hp so my plans are Process west fmic Process west Cai Process west tgv delete Process west fuel rail 1200cc injectors 340 or 525 fuel pump on strictly e85
Awesome stuff man, I have a similar build, subbed. From Canada. How was the gear 300 and lightweight shockproof mix? RCM and pro-drive apparently use Castrol universal for the trans and B373 for the rear diff, might try it.
Thanks mate 👌 The gear 300 and the lightweight shockproof is what I run still to this day, I swapped over to the Castrol b373 and never got on with it tbh! Never worked at all from cold. I’m yet to try the redline heavyweight, I’ve been told to give that a go by a few people now.
I found it difficult to change at any time other than when it was at a decent temperature, from cold it was awful, this may very well have been the cae shifter though as I’m yet to try the Castrol b373 again with the stock shifter, I may have to give it a crack again when I build the box up again this time 👌
@@5501pickopicko oh I misunderstood. The B373 is only for the rear differential not the transmission. Maybe thats why it didnt work for you. Here is a screenshot of the email I had sent from RCM when i built mine, I also confirmed with castrol the B373 has friction modifiers for platted diffs: imgur.com/MgtejF1
@@germainewinter6042 yeah I ran like this for a while but after a fair amount of launches and abuse the rear diff did start to show signs of wear, whining and I also snapped a front stock wrx axle aswel :/
Conor Sinclair they are a bit of a diy mate, the actual brackets are for a 5x114 pcd hub, I bought them used and then adapted them myself to fit the 5x100 hubs, I’m still not 100% happy with them clearance wise on the tyres tbh, I’m going to cut into the chassis legs more to give more clearance I think
Conor Sinclair Thankyou mate 🙏🏻 yeah I think they’re the ones, I’ve just had a look, these are the exact ones I run anyway : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283975269434
Only just seen this comment mate, you grind material off each of the pistons to balance them to the same weight, only follow the manufacturers recommendations of where to remove material from though
That Subi Boy thanks mate 🙏🏻 originally I only did the build for 500bhp tbh, it slightly exceeded my expectations, it’s been perfect for over 18 months now and I’ve been racing it for just about a full season now on the same build. It will be a cdb build on the next one though 👌👌
I did it all with plasti gauge mate, not ideal, I’d of preferred to do it with micrometer and bore gauge but I didn’t have access to them at the time, I wanted larger clearances as the target power was quite high and the oil being used is quite heavy due to the use of the car. I increased the size of the oil pump to the 11mm pump to account for the larger clearances also
I see your point mate. But from your list I can see you just use bigger clearance just on main bearings but you left std clearance I check it with service manual or may be I wrong??? Sorry I knw I'm pain in the ars* but I'm planning to do same thing on my project and I dt wanna mess up. But non of big garages will not tell me them secrets lol
Yeah it was just on the main bearings that were larger, I should really have gone larger on the rod bearings aswel but I didn’t want to send it off to be polished to adjust at the time, it’s stood the test of time though mate, it’s really been abused and never had any issues, you’ll not go far wrong building to the spec I’ve built mine tbh mate 👌
Its fxxkin' hell goes like stink on such narrow track... What about handling for the front? Whiteline anti-lift lower control arm bush, +6.0 degree caster..should be good to go
@@5501pickopicko looking good there... Complete setup... How i wish my sf5 fozzy have that amount of power and reliable build like yours... (Im running 04 jdm wrx avcs 5mt full swap including subframe front to back) ...along with caster,antilift...albeit with slightly smaller sway 22mm cusco front and 23mm whiteline rear... Partly because im daily driving my foz.. 😅 Still running td04L...mild tune 247whp with 237lbft wtq... Cheers 🍻🍻
This engine did around 10k road miles and then two seasons of time attack here in the uk. Some poor tuning cracked a couple of the bores (not my tuning I’ll add 😅) and it ended up spinning a bearing from poor oil control back then and poor tuning 🤦🏻♂️ I believe I did an explanation video on the eventual failure on my channel somewhere aswel mate.
@@5501pickopicko Oh Really? That's good, less then I was expecting. I wouldn't be to knowledgeable about doing this myself, hoping to send mine off to a place and let them build it. Hopefully it's in around the same price range.
@@shane_c4158 This was a few years back now, I’ve done a few builds since then 😅 I imagine labour to have it all done would be a similar amount again, maybe looking closer to the £10,000 mark depending on where you take it of course
I’ve got around 30k in the car in parts mate, i would have to look back through this video to see what exactly I had in the parts in this video but perhaps around 15k??
Bushy Baws TBAG all I can say is do plenty of reading and research and take your time really, no need to rush any aspect of it. I think it’s been really interesting doing it all myself, I’ve learnt a lot throughout the process, really enjoyed it.
Ali Toroganan I wish it was one pay cheque 😅 it was several months pay cheques. I think the k20 is a very good engine, can take nearly the same power as an ej207 can in stock form without being opened! Around 450-500bhp!
Ali Toroganan it depends really as the k20 doesn’t come in a 4wd option, it depends what you want, I’m personally not a Honda man, never got on with them. They also cost a lot of money to extract power from, can’t do anything with the stock ecu, carberry Rom on a stock Subaru you can do anything you want with! Regarding rod knock... ensure you monitor you oil system and make sure you have the measures in place regarding oil control to ensure your oil pump always has a supply, same as any engine really, just slightly harder keeping the oil in the pan with a flat engine layout obviously
you have moved the turbo over - to clear the 3 inch inlet ! i have one but was scared to grind away at my new engine ! mine was a ej205 = brought a ej207 ra sti brand new short block = spun 2 rod bearings at 268,000 klm.
I didn’t have to grind any of the engine block or gearbox bell housing with that setup mate, the turbo exhaust housing is manufactured in such a way that it does Infact clear everything whilst bolting to the original design exhaust up pipe
Really enjoyed that video, waiting on my 2.1 build atm. That driving at Caldwell man! Epic.
How are you liking it? Currently waiting on machining for my 2.1l build!
Nice build mukka.
My stroked gf8 is now 810hp hopefully ricky will get the cameras out so we can go for a blast in Mexico 😃
M DALE Thanks mate 👌 I bet it’s naughty that at that power! Drop him a message, I would imagine he will sort something out with you.
Hey mate, i saw that video interview you did with another lad and i had been thinking about your build heaps since then. Was very happy i stumblee across this video, didnt even realise it was the same car until i saw those canards on the bumper ! Very nice build, very inspiring. Thank you.
Cheers mate, it’s evolved someone and another engine or two since this one but glad this video is still being enjoyed 👌
Great build Sam, thanks for taking the time to document and share 👍🏻
Just watched your feature on LLF, and I HAD to look up your YT channel. Fantastic build, mate. The most impressive part is that you did it all by yourself (with the help of a couple of friends, of course). I love that you drive it like you stole it, the way it's meant to be driven! Truly an inspiration. I hope you keep the videos coming, because you have yourself a new subscriber.
Amazing work Sam, thanks for the step wise video, great to see the work you put into it!! Look forward to seeing your future tweaks and track days!
Very nice work, but lightened crank pullies and flywheels do jack all for performance and add clutch shudder and weird rev hangs. Coming from personal experience.
Cheers mate, both have been on for over 3 years and I’ve noticed zero difference tbh, I think with the short crank and opposing piston design of the Subaru ej, it’s pretty well balanced. Has little effect to the rotating assembly. Certainly no shudders or Rev hangs
Great build thanks for sharing
Think you should invest in a roll cage you drive it like you stole it (how it's ment to be driven by the way 👍👍👍)..
I agree haha you slidin all over the place on the track. Safety first
Excellent video. Subscribed!
Awesome build, did you use the stock ej207 cams?
Thankyou mate, I did indeed, stock Uk spec ej207 Avcs camshafts
Nice build mate, very similar to mine but im using BC cams and a precision turbo.
what headlights are you using ?
This was some time ago now mate, I’m on a set of spec c type Ra-R Hawkeye cams now and a pulsar g35-900 turbo, amongst other bits like 😅
Headlights are factory units and I’ve fitted bi-xenon projectors, been in around 6 years now 😅
Lol, fair play mate you've done a nice job. I've got to the point of running out of things to do but my headlights keep going cloudy and don't really want to change too much from the factory look.
Love the video, nice build!
Goose Venom Thankyou mate 🙏🏻
Wow man loving the work I’m shitting me self with doing the work myself but I guess why not !
Also I’ll not want to run AVCS atm you think I can make some decent power with my ej205 head and 207 bottom end with some goodies in the heads
Yeah give it a shot mate, that’s all I’ve ever done 💪
You’ll still make good power with that setup, just the avcs helps with the spool up on the larger turbos, better mid range and lower down 👌
@@5501pickopicko what turbo should I run gor max hp so my plans are
Process west fmic
Process west Cai
Process west tgv delete
Process west fuel rail
1200cc injectors
340 or 525 fuel pump on strictly e85
Wow gd job man👍how much it cost all rebuild?
Thankyou mate, not entirely sure to be honest, I’ve got lists of it all but it’s a depressing amount I’m up to now so I tend not to look at it 😅😂
Great video I like it!
Awesome stuff man, I have a similar build, subbed. From Canada.
How was the gear 300 and lightweight shockproof mix? RCM and pro-drive apparently use Castrol universal for the trans and B373 for the rear diff, might try it.
Thanks mate 👌
The gear 300 and the lightweight shockproof is what I run still to this day, I swapped over to the Castrol b373 and never got on with it tbh! Never worked at all from cold. I’m yet to try the redline heavyweight, I’ve been told to give that a go by a few people now.
@@5501pickopicko Good to know! What issues did the B373 give you? Was it loud or caused chatter?
I found it difficult to change at any time other than when it was at a decent temperature, from cold it was awful, this may very well have been the cae shifter though as I’m yet to try the Castrol b373 again with the stock shifter, I may have to give it a crack again when I build the box up again this time 👌
@@5501pickopicko oh I misunderstood. The B373 is only for the rear differential not the transmission. Maybe thats why it didnt work for you.
Here is a screenshot of the email I had sent from RCM when i built mine, I also confirmed with castrol the B373 has friction modifiers for platted diffs: imgur.com/MgtejF1
Love this build. Using the 6spd box but stock axles and diff?
Thankyou mate 🙏🏻 using the 6 speed full setup now mate, on the jdm 1:1 transfer gear box so I’m on the 3.9 rear r180
@@5501pickopicko ok cool.. I have a gc8 and was thinking to just get the 6spd and use the stock axles and diff instead of the full swap. $$$
@@germainewinter6042 yeah I ran like this for a while but after a fair amount of launches and abuse the rear diff did start to show signs of wear, whining and I also snapped a front stock wrx axle aswel :/
@@5501pickopicko wow.. rough. Well slow progress
Amazing video how much did all of that cost
Thankyou mate, I couldn’t honestly say, I think the car owed me around 30k in total but that’s to how it stands to date
Where did you get the brake ducts or are they diy? Look 👌
Conor Sinclair they are a bit of a diy mate, the actual brackets are for a 5x114 pcd hub, I bought them used and then adapted them myself to fit the 5x100 hubs, I’m still not 100% happy with them clearance wise on the tyres tbh, I’m going to cut into the chassis legs more to give more clearance I think
Ah ok, I seen there is a couple sets on eBay around 80£ mark - look okay and for 5x100. Another cracking vid btw - some build.
Conor Sinclair Thankyou mate 🙏🏻 yeah I think they’re the ones, I’ve just had a look, these are the exact ones I run anyway : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283975269434
Sorry if it’s a stupid question, how do you balance pistons?
Only just seen this comment mate, you grind material off each of the pistons to balance them to the same weight, only follow the manufacturers recommendations of where to remove material from though
Great job
Grate build mate 👌👌 how come you didn't do cdb with that 500+ power ? Std block will handle that ?
That Subi Boy thanks mate 🙏🏻 originally I only did the build for 500bhp tbh, it slightly exceeded my expectations, it’s been perfect for over 18 months now and I’ve been racing it for just about a full season now on the same build. It will be a cdb build on the next one though 👌👌
How did you work out main bearings clearance? Std 0.010-0.030 limit is 0.040 mm. And you go way over the std. limits. ?
I did it all with plasti gauge mate, not ideal, I’d of preferred to do it with micrometer and bore gauge but I didn’t have access to them at the time, I wanted larger clearances as the target power was quite high and the oil being used is quite heavy due to the use of the car. I increased the size of the oil pump to the 11mm pump to account for the larger clearances also
I see your point mate. But from your list I can see you just use bigger clearance just on main bearings but you left std clearance I check it with service manual or may be I wrong??? Sorry I knw I'm pain in the ars* but I'm planning to do same thing on my project and I dt wanna mess up. But non of big garages will not tell me them secrets lol
Yeah it was just on the main bearings that were larger, I should really have gone larger on the rod bearings aswel but I didn’t want to send it off to be polished to adjust at the time, it’s stood the test of time though mate, it’s really been abused and never had any issues, you’ll not go far wrong building to the spec I’ve built mine tbh mate 👌
That's awesome, what front lip is that?
Bobby Mircevski Thanks mate 👌 it’s one I made myself from carbon fibre, took a long time and a lot of effort!
Its fxxkin' hell goes like stink on such narrow track...
What about handling for the front?
Whiteline anti-lift lower control arm bush, +6.0 degree caster..should be good to go
Cheers mate 👌 I’m on all of the above with 27mm whiteline front anti roll bar going on and 24 on the rear
@@5501pickopicko looking good there... Complete setup...
How i wish my sf5 fozzy have that amount of power and reliable build like yours...
(Im running 04 jdm wrx avcs 5mt full swap including subframe front to back)
...along with caster,antilift...albeit with slightly smaller sway 22mm cusco front and 23mm whiteline rear...
Partly because im daily driving my foz.. 😅
Still running td04L...mild tune 247whp with 237lbft wtq...
Cheers 🍻🍻
Great video and so inspiring! Subi Gang!
How much did all the parts cost besides the ej207?
I can’t remember to be honest mate, maybe £4000?
what your opinion about un-equal or equal headers?
Ermm to be honest I prefer the unequal sound, years ago I did have equal length on the car but personally didn’t like it
Serious talk-
Willing to do another engine?
I can advise and point in the right direction, but I couldn’t take on anymore work atm unfortunately mate 😅
@@5501pickopicko top work regardless 💪🏾💪🏾
hows the engine holding up
This engine did around 10k road miles and then two seasons of time attack here in the uk. Some poor tuning cracked a couple of the bores (not my tuning I’ll add 😅) and it ended up spinning a bearing from poor oil control back then and poor tuning 🤦🏻♂️
I believe I did an explanation video on the eventual failure on my channel somewhere aswel mate.
How much was the build overall?
I believe it was around £5 to 6000 if I remember right
@@5501pickopicko Oh Really? That's good, less then I was expecting. I wouldn't be to knowledgeable about doing this myself, hoping to send mine off to a place and let them build it. Hopefully it's in around the same price range.
@@shane_c4158 This was a few years back now, I’ve done a few builds since then 😅
I imagine labour to have it all done would be a similar amount again, maybe looking closer to the £10,000 mark depending on where you take it of course
@@5501pickopicko as long as it holds 500hp it'll be worth it✌️
@@shane_c4158 oh it did that nicely for over 2 years, it would still be going now if it was for the mapping issue
can v8 avcs head swap into v5 ej205?
Yeah I can’t see any reason why that wouldn’t work mate. I’ve got avcs heads on a very early ej20 classic cdb myself
@@5501pickopicko cool, then how to make avcs working? since v5 ecu dint have this features
Can I ask the cost of all the parts please 🙂
I’ve got around 30k in the car in parts mate, i would have to look back through this video to see what exactly I had in the parts in this video but perhaps around 15k??
@@5501pickopicko thanks mate 😉😉
Awesome vid bud, you a mechanic?
Bushy Baws TBAG Thanks mate 👌 I’m an aircraft engineer by trade, just taught myself everything mechanics wise, just a hobby really.
@@5501pickopicko been so tempted to do this myself with my 04 sti...but scared to do it...tempted more now though 👌
Bushy Baws TBAG all I can say is do plenty of reading and research and take your time really, no need to rush any aspect of it. I think it’s been really interesting doing it all myself, I’ve learnt a lot throughout the process, really enjoyed it.
how did you get the engine out of your house hahaha
Haha, with great difficulty to say the least mate 😂 me and a friend lifted it out 😅
Bro built a long block in his living room lol
matey where did you get all that money haha
Work hard mate, I build planes for a living, pretty well paid luckily 😅
@@5501pickopicko ooowf thats a very fat paycheck, lucky you👍 what do you think about honda engines, reliable than a 205?
Ali Toroganan I wish it was one pay cheque 😅 it was several months pay cheques. I think the k20 is a very good engine, can take nearly the same power as an ej207 can in stock form without being opened! Around 450-500bhp!
@@5501pickopicko bang for buck then its k20, one last question bro how do you avoid a knock rod on a standard ej motor
Ali Toroganan it depends really as the k20 doesn’t come in a 4wd option, it depends what you want, I’m personally not a Honda man, never got on with them. They also cost a lot of money to extract power from, can’t do anything with the stock ecu, carberry Rom on a stock Subaru you can do anything you want with!
Regarding rod knock... ensure you monitor you oil system and make sure you have the measures in place regarding oil control to ensure your oil pump always has a supply, same as any engine really, just slightly harder keeping the oil in the pan with a flat engine layout obviously
Get a 2015 sti steering rack
G da Menace I shall be looking into this this year, are they a straight replacement?