I'm glad you're enjoying it. Honestly, I had a bit of trouble getting started with this car. Possibly because the former owner passed away and it was his original vision. That said, now that I've gotten into it, I'm starting to make it 'mine', and as a result, my interest is increasing. Always great to see you.
Was waiting for the kazoos to play. When they finally did, it put a smile on my face. After a tough day at work, the kazoos made the ending of my work week better.
Looking good, Eric. Great to know that frame is going to be blasted and powder coated. A project car like this deserves that kind of detail. Good job supplementing the frame structure as well.
Nice start with the build. I like how you are breaking it down in sections. I think most kit car projects don't get completed is because the owner/builder tries to do too much at one time instead of focusing on a particular area at a time. Keeps from getting overwhelmed. Good work Eric
Eric, 1/8” double ended drill bits. Get a pack of them before you start installing the tins. I broke 4 just today mounting my seat brackets. I won’t use my nice bits on my roadster. The project is looking good! Thanks for sharing!
Hey Eric, you helped me alot to build my SBF 347 stroker from the block up with no experience. It was part of my FFR MK4 build. It's awesome you decided to do this project. I have mine to liscence and titled. Waiting for body and paint this spring.
That structure is actually better than the original cobras from the 60's. and you would be surprised at how much they have changed since the early cars.
In past when doing rivet removal. I use my die grinder to carefully cut the heads off then knock them in or out of the holes . Basket case jobs are all so labor intensive but so rewarding when they roll out door.👍
As a kid growing up I always wanted a cobra when I saw one at a Ford Dealer on display. That and the land advertised in the comic books showing a dude on horseback
Finding good drill bits is a never-ending quest for me! I just bought some replacements for a set I have, and promptly snapped one in half on its first use! $12 down the toilet! More money doesn't mean more quality - I had to learn the hard way on that one! Was the most brittle bit I've ever used! ZERO side load tolerance. Even Harbor Friiight bits have more side load tolerance than this one I broke! I wish I had your patience, Eric! That type of work frustrates me - welding, cutting angles, and any type of fabrication. I usually do it out of necessity, but rarely enjoy it, lol. I'm the same way with wood. I just want to blow through everything and get it done ... but that never makes for good results when measuring and cutting is involved, as I'm sure you know! This thing is gonna be sweeeeet - I can tell! Nothing like extremely high power to weight ratios. Going to be a blast to drive!
When sticking those panels back on I recommend you Stick them on with a glue as well as rivets. The stuff they use for windscreens should do the job , ut will increase the strength of the frame and help keep the rust away.
That was always the plan, in fact, that's what Factory Five instructs you to do to help seal things up and prevent rattles. I'm going to be using actually body sealer when I do the final assembly. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy . Depending on the properties of the body sealer you may be better off with the neoprene windscreen sealer. Some body sealers remain very soft like putty and squeeze out or crumble to dust in hot areas, some are the same stuff as window sealer.
4 drill bits, price of the restoration just went up. When it comes time to reinstall those panels, I suggest, if you don't have one in your arsenal, is a battery powered rivet gun.
I've learnt the hard way that the best rivet drill is a thicker one, that's been polished to a snub on the grinder. I buy really cheap ones for that and they last a long time, usually until i forget what they are, and reassign them to a different purpose.
Wow. What an insanely crude automobile! That could have been built exactly the same way 100 years ago, or so. Minus negligable parts like the ignition being electronic, fuel injection and so on, but the overall construction is just - wow.
I was wondering why the frame and the aluminum parts did not have any rust protection. Great idea about sandblasting and powder coating the frame. Look forward to the next video.
Nice video. When you send it to powder coating, can you please take videos of the process, if possible. I know it is not the main of this channel, but would be interesting how that company approaches the task.
Yet another shout-out to this guy from Bill Burr, this time on Mike Tyson’s hotboxing podcast, and he mentions him on Joe Rogan lol that must’ve upped the subscriber count more than any other singular event
Hi Eric, Some questions/ideas from a fellow metal fabricator. first, all those rivets you drilled out, are you concerned that all the backs of the rivets that fell inside the tubing are going to make the car rattle when on bumpy roads and such? second, it might be a good idea to take a wire wheel to all the existing welds (tedious AF i know) for two reasons. You will most likely find at least one or two welds that you want to re-do just because, and also because you may find an actual crack or the start of one in the places most likely to take abuse when driving. That brings me to my third point, which is a concern with your idea of having the frame powder coated. powder coating is great, looks great, etc... BUT! the one thing you can't do to a powder coated metal structure is touch it up! if you get a big scratch on the frame caused by some other assembly that you have to do, or god forbid you find that you have to cut a weld for any reason after the frame is coated, you will be left with no real good options. my humble opinion is that you would be better off with a very nice paint job on the frame that when finished, will come with a very handy touch up kit. There may be something im missing about the positive aspects of the powder coating and i invite any and all fellow fabricators to enlighten me to what those might be. Oh, and lastly, i loved the new montage music! was that a kazoo???
Not concerned about the rivets in the frame. Nothing I can really do about it. Also, keep in mind, side pipe exhaust right next to you. I don't think you'd hear a rattle if there was one. I eyeballed some of the welds while I was working and didn't see anything that caused concern. If I do find anything I'll be sure to address it. As stated in the video, the frame will not go off to powder coating until I'm done with all fabrications and modifications. Likely toward the end of the build after I have everything fitted. I'm doing this for the exact reason you mention. BTW, it was the owners idea to have the frame powder coated. Thanks for the comment.
i know you've probably thought of it, but why don't you take that straight bit of box section that was hitting the transmission and put an arc in it? That way you don't have to remove the manifolds to get to the engine mounts every time you need to remove or install the engine? You could also potentially halve the number of rivets you have to re-install by adding some bends or ribs to all those flat sheets to stiffen them up. EDIT: love the kazoo muzak too. like a new-wave benny hill theme song!
Simple answer, bending 3/4" tube isn't easy, and I don't have the equipment for it. I only needed to remove the right side engine mount and the engine/trans went right in. Removing 2 bolts solved that problem. Also, the work is already done and finish welded. There's no going back now. In short, I'm taking the path of least resistance. Thanks for the comment.
That's made it simpler, change the chassis structure to fit the new design parts requirement. Later on after the chassis is coated, the body panels can be reworked/remade to fit. The haynes manual says " Assembly is the reverse of dissasembly." Lies all lies :-D The haynes manual was the first thing we bought for our cars, very handy indeed.
I hope the owner got a good enough deal on this half finished kit to warrant all of the labor hours to dismantle, clean, prep, and reassembly. Lots of work.
Eric I know this is not the type of video but I have a question I have a crankshaft sensor that's unplugged if u touch it and the block with a screwdriver it will spark on the block what could cause that l.
Eric hi.I am trying to change the mount engine support for my honda civic 2013,the one that is at the passenger side.My problem is I bought one without the brackets,now I need to remove the main bolt,but is not an hex bolt,is not a flange bolt,Has a tricky head and I dont know which tool I can use to remove it. Any idea?thanks a lot.
im looking at the gearbox tunnel tube i would brace up remove the tube put a curve the square tube replace then remove your braces it don't need to be straight ??
I think by the time you clean everything up the project should have started out with a new kit Cant see where money is saved by using something like that unless its your own but to pay someone to build it for a customer great deal for the mechanic doing the work on a time / material basis
Great videos, thanks! Curious to know what happens with all those rivet pins after drilling the heads off? Do they fall inside the tubing and stay there? Is it going to be rattly? :)
I think factory 5 has update parts for the mk-1 and mk-2 frames they have improvements for the foot boxes and some of the things that you’re doing in the video there is also some front suspension upgrades that I would highly recommend did one on my mark two for better front suspension geometrycontact them also they have a recommendation for a low car shifter for automatic transmissions that is supposed to fit very well Thanks for putting out all of the great videos I enjoy watching them good luck with your project
The entire suspension on this car is being scrapped. I had always planned to get the updated control arms for the front and, if I have my way, a Watts link for the rear. I was hoping to use a ratcheting shifter which is why I went for the B&M. Thanks for the comment.
Gotta love Eric for not fluffing his video with him drilling out in real time each and everyone of those rivets
Fabrication, something I wished that I had learned when I was younger. I stand in awe of your expertise, sir.
I'm still learning myself. I wish I was better at it. Thanks for the comment.
The soundtrack for this video though.. weirdly makes me 20% happy and 40% intrigued.
I'll take that as a complement. Thanks.
You just can't beat a proper nuts 'n' bolts ETCG video - where we all learn together. This series is already shaping up to be one of the best!
I'm glad you're enjoying it. Honestly, I had a bit of trouble getting started with this car. Possibly because the former owner passed away and it was his original vision. That said, now that I've gotten into it, I'm starting to make it 'mine', and as a result, my interest is increasing. Always great to see you.
@@ericthecarguy That's good. You've probably gotten over the hardest part by simply getting started. Looking forward to more.
The music with the kazoos is hilarious
I found it more annoying.
Rather listen to bagpipes.
Was waiting for the kazoos to play. When they finally did, it put a smile on my face. After a tough day at work, the kazoos made the ending of my work week better.
Was there kazoo music?
20:33 That is fantastic!
even better at x2 speed!
Looking good, Eric. Great to know that frame is going to be blasted and powder coated. A project car like this deserves that kind of detail. Good job supplementing the frame structure as well.
Nice start with the build. I like how you are breaking it down in sections. I think most kit car projects don't get completed is because the owner/builder tries to do too much at one time instead of focusing on a particular area at a time. Keeps from getting overwhelmed. Good work Eric
If you hear a rattling noise when you finish the car it is the rivets inside the chasis tubes !!! Love your videos dude ...
I don't think it'll be an issue with open side pipe exhaust.
Eric, you are a blessing. Thank you for all your efforts. Sincerely.
No, thank you!
That music reminds me of shopping in a Safeway back in the late 70's.
safeway is my favorite spot still. walmart and fred meyers pissed me off too many times
Eric, 1/8” double ended drill bits. Get a pack of them before you start installing the tins. I broke 4 just today mounting my seat brackets. I won’t use my nice bits on my roadster. The project is looking good! Thanks for sharing!
Hey Eric, you helped me alot to build my SBF 347 stroker from the block up with no experience. It was part of my FFR MK4 build. It's awesome you decided to do this project. I have mine to liscence and titled. Waiting for body and paint this spring.
I love this series. I'm a little biased cause it's my dream car 👍👍
this is cool to see something other than rebuild or modify. this is totally a build
cool update with the strip/prep/rebuild mate, scary how little structure it seems to have. cheers.
That structure is actually better than the original cobras from the 60's. and you would be surprised at how much they have changed since the early cars.
@@cobrabuilder9336damn, thanks for the info. i hope they have improved over the years! still seems like not a lot there though?
cheers.
In past when doing rivet removal.
I use my die grinder to carefully cut the heads off then knock them in or out of the holes .
Basket case jobs are all so labor intensive but so rewarding when they roll out door.👍
As a kid growing up I always wanted a cobra when I saw one at a Ford Dealer on display. That and the land advertised in the comic books showing a dude on horseback
Your videos are easy to watch and listen to. Your explanations are excellent. I’m looking forward to future episodes.
Great Eric. I will keep watching till completed Keep safe !
I never miss a video of yours Eric, so I don't worry about your schedule, I'll see it when you make it! Love your channel by the way..... Cheers!
Thanks Eric for making us part of this build, it's really informative & interesting👍
Stay Safe👍
Thank Malcolm, he's the one that's trusting me with the car.
@@ericthecarguy Special thanks to Malcolm😉
Finding good drill bits is a never-ending quest for me! I just bought some replacements for a set I have, and promptly snapped one in half on its first use! $12 down the toilet! More money doesn't mean more quality - I had to learn the hard way on that one! Was the most brittle bit I've ever used! ZERO side load tolerance. Even Harbor Friiight bits have more side load tolerance than this one I broke!
I wish I had your patience, Eric! That type of work frustrates me - welding, cutting angles, and any type of fabrication. I usually do it out of necessity, but rarely enjoy it, lol. I'm the same way with wood. I just want to blow through everything and get it done ... but that never makes for good results when measuring and cutting is involved, as I'm sure you know!
This thing is gonna be sweeeeet - I can tell! Nothing like extremely high power to weight ratios. Going to be a blast to drive!
When sticking those panels back on I recommend you Stick them on with a glue as well as rivets.
The stuff they use for windscreens should do the job , ut will increase the strength of the frame and help keep the rust away.
That was always the plan, in fact, that's what Factory Five instructs you to do to help seal things up and prevent rattles. I'm going to be using actually body sealer when I do the final assembly. Thanks for the comment.
The body sealer should do nicely. It stays elastic, so it'll soak up some road noise. That should make the car feel more solid.
@@ericthecarguy . Depending on the properties of the body sealer you may be better off with the neoprene windscreen sealer. Some body sealers remain very soft like putty and squeeze out or crumble to dust in hot areas, some are the same stuff as window sealer.
@@anomamos9095 we use Chemtech M1 adhesive, and i have a couple of tubes for eric...
Excited for this one!
Love the series Eric! Looking forward to what comes next.
Bill Burr shouted you out on Mike Tyson's podcast 👍🏽
Great work Eric! Learned a ton. Be well and have fun on this project
4 drill bits, price of the restoration just went up. When it comes time to reinstall those panels, I suggest, if you don't have one in your arsenal, is a battery powered rivet gun.
I've learnt the hard way that the best rivet drill is a thicker one, that's been polished to a snub on the grinder. I buy really cheap ones for that and they last a long time, usually until i forget what they are, and reassign them to a different purpose.
Ton of progress looks good @EricTheCarGuy
Wow. What an insanely crude automobile! That could have been built exactly the same way 100 years ago, or so. Minus negligable parts like the ignition being electronic, fuel injection and so on, but the overall construction is just - wow.
I was wondering why the frame and the aluminum parts did not have any rust protection. Great idea about sandblasting and powder coating the frame. Look forward to the next video.
Eric! I’m excited about the new content and thank you Malcolm. And the cobra 🐍 fella.
The modifications looks great 👍👌 @EricTheCarGuy
Oh man a factory 5 that is sweet @EricTheCarGuy
Fun new project for you. Been subscribed for a long time and loved the fairmont and truck projects too.
I'll be looking forward to updates, thanks
A bit late now but standard practice for welding hollow members is coating the inside with linseed oil to prevent corrosion
Got me when he said 'divorced oil filter' 😂😂😂
That's the cheapest divorce ever, LOL! 😁
Riveting video.
I'll get my coat.
Thanks for the video looking forward to the build
wow I really like watching you do the teardown and rebulid
Man if I was close to Cincinnati I would love to help you build that car. I'm not a pro but I work.
Looking awesome!!!
Great video
Fun project, wish I were there
Oh! how far factory five has come lol
i have drilled rivets before you sure made it look easy next time i will call you
I really enjoyed him taking the car back apart.
10 people didn't find this episode riveting. You could say that they weren't welded to the screen.
It looks like the aluminum was assemble to the chassis with bathtub caulking. Lucky for you! But use something better when you reassemble.
I'm loving these videos, I'm seriously considering buying a cobra kit car.
Digging this reggae vibe. Loving the series Eric. Keep up the great work!
Sweet vid! awesome music for the rivet drilling
Gun Jesus= Honda Jesus. All will be forgiven🙏
You do nice fabrication work.
Thank you!
Loving this project. Good shout to take the time to do it right rather than scrambling around to make weekly videos :-)
The amount of rivets are insane 😳 🤣 @EricTheCarGuy
Thank you for sharing your wonderful videos Eric I am from South Africa
Thank you! Hello South Africa! Always good to see you.
Nice video.
When you send it to powder coating, can you please take videos of the process, if possible. I know it is not the main of this channel, but would be interesting how that company approaches the task.
Progress👍
I like the music in this video
It's just kazoos all the way down
Yet another shout-out to this guy from Bill Burr, this time on Mike Tyson’s hotboxing podcast, and he mentions him on Joe Rogan lol that must’ve upped the subscriber count more than any other singular event
I'm forever grateful to Bill Burr and his endorsements of me.
ah the ratcheting wrench best invention ever!
21:00 in i was about to ask how many drill bits were used in the rivets, but you answered that a few seconds later
The Kazoos were a nice choice.
Hi Eric,
Some questions/ideas from a fellow metal fabricator.
first, all those rivets you drilled out, are you concerned that all the backs of the rivets that fell inside the tubing are going to make the car rattle when on bumpy roads and such?
second, it might be a good idea to take a wire wheel to all the existing welds (tedious AF i know) for two reasons. You will most likely find at least one or two welds that you want to re-do just because, and also because you may find an actual crack or the start of one in the places most likely to take abuse when driving.
That brings me to my third point, which is a concern with your idea of having the frame powder coated.
powder coating is great, looks great, etc... BUT! the one thing you can't do to a powder coated metal structure is touch it up!
if you get a big scratch on the frame caused by some other assembly that you have to do, or god forbid you find that you have to cut a weld for any reason after the frame is coated, you will be left with no real good options.
my humble opinion is that you would be better off with a very nice paint job on the frame that when finished, will come with a very handy touch up kit.
There may be something im missing about the positive aspects of the powder coating and i invite any and all fellow fabricators to enlighten me to what those might be.
Oh, and lastly, i loved the new montage music! was that a kazoo???
Not concerned about the rivets in the frame. Nothing I can really do about it. Also, keep in mind, side pipe exhaust right next to you. I don't think you'd hear a rattle if there was one.
I eyeballed some of the welds while I was working and didn't see anything that caused concern. If I do find anything I'll be sure to address it.
As stated in the video, the frame will not go off to powder coating until I'm done with all fabrications and modifications. Likely toward the end of the build after I have everything fitted. I'm doing this for the exact reason you mention. BTW, it was the owners idea to have the frame powder coated.
Thanks for the comment.
this should be a cool build!
*4:50** I wanna know the long story lol*
What a riveting episode! Lol
i know you've probably thought of it, but why don't you take that straight bit of box section that was hitting the transmission and put an arc in it? That way you don't have to remove the manifolds to get to the engine mounts every time you need to remove or install the engine?
You could also potentially halve the number of rivets you have to re-install by adding some bends or ribs to all those flat sheets to stiffen them up.
EDIT: love the kazoo muzak too. like a new-wave benny hill theme song!
Simple answer, bending 3/4" tube isn't easy, and I don't have the equipment for it. I only needed to remove the right side engine mount and the engine/trans went right in. Removing 2 bolts solved that problem. Also, the work is already done and finish welded. There's no going back now. In short, I'm taking the path of least resistance. Thanks for the comment.
ETCG: You ever chair dance to kazoo music?
Me: No, that's stupid!
20:33 Me: This music is my JAM! WOOOO!!!
Good morning
Good morning!
In this video:Eric drilling rivets for 30 minutes.
Love the Ska music.
Nice Work! Enjoying this series. Maybe a transmission mounted shifter from Lokar would work.
Maybe . But a manual transmission would work better for sure
I've already got my heart set on the B&M ratcheting shifter. It's very similar to the one I have in the truck and I love it. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Hey thats cool, BTW thanks for helping all of us DIY auto repair guys by sharing your knowledge and techniques on UA-cam.
That's made it simpler, change the chassis structure to fit the new design parts requirement.
Later on after the chassis is coated, the body panels can be reworked/remade to fit.
The haynes manual says " Assembly is the reverse of dissasembly." Lies all lies :-D
The haynes manual was the first thing we bought for our cars, very handy indeed.
All lies! Totally agree. Great to see you BTW.
That Kazoo solo though
After seeing the bones of that thing, I'm not sure if I'm all that impressed with Factory 5. I remember lusting after them when they came out.
Interesting video..
that kazoo song gets me every time lmao
kazoos FTW!
nice job, plenty of rivets , i would have thought that getting the frame dipped would have been a better job.
I hope the owner got a good enough deal on this half finished kit to warrant all of the labor hours to dismantle, clean, prep, and reassembly. Lots of work.
That's going to be a lot of rivet bits rattling around inside that tubing.
I don't think you'll hear it over the exhaust.
@@ericthecarguy I was thinking the same thing, but it still tickles my OCD.
Is that original powder coat from the factory on the frame? Looks like a lot of surface rust.
Eric I know this is not the type of video but I have a question I have a crankshaft sensor that's unplugged if u touch it and the block with a screwdriver it will spark on the block what could cause that l.
Something about that kazoo music, its god awful but i just cant stop listening!
Eric The Car Guy, or Zen or the Art of Car Building. Always sounding so relaxed. Does that come in boxes?
There any new videos on this project?
Holy rivet removal batman...
these kits ship with a box of 1200 rivets from ffr
Are we going to see more factory 5 vids? Kinda love it!
Make the noise!!!
Do you think you can show us a board with your plan , time and modification of the plan in a video ?? Like things to remember , parts to order ....
I've considered it, but I'm waiting until the owner makes a few final decisions first. Thanks for the comment.
Out of curiosity why put the battery up front when putting it in the rear would help with traction?
Less wiring and it will be accessible for charging when storing. I believe moving it will have a negligible effect on traction.
This kit car looks like it was built by the duct guy at a HVAC shop
Eric hi.I am trying to change the mount engine support for my honda civic 2013,the one that is at the passenger side.My problem is I bought one without the brackets,now I need to remove the main bolt,but is not an hex bolt,is not a flange bolt,Has a tricky head and I dont know which tool I can use to remove it. Any idea?thanks a lot.
im looking at the gearbox tunnel tube i would brace up remove the tube put a curve the square tube replace then remove your braces it don't need to be straight ??
I think by the time you clean everything up the project should have started out with a new kit
Cant see where money is saved by using something like that unless its your own but to pay someone to build it for a customer great deal for the mechanic doing the work on a time / material basis
Great videos, thanks! Curious to know what happens with all those rivet pins after drilling the heads off? Do they fall inside the tubing and stay there? Is it going to be rattly? :)
Maybe, but good luck hearing it over the exhaust. Side pipes.
I think factory 5 has update parts for the mk-1 and mk-2 frames they have improvements for the foot boxes and some of the things that you’re doing in the video there is also some front suspension upgrades that I would highly recommend did one on my mark two for better front suspension geometrycontact them also they have a recommendation for a low car shifter for automatic transmissions that is supposed to fit very well Thanks for putting out all of the great videos I enjoy watching them good luck with your project
The entire suspension on this car is being scrapped. I had always planned to get the updated control arms for the front and, if I have my way, a Watts link for the rear. I was hoping to use a ratcheting shifter which is why I went for the B&M. Thanks for the comment.