Miata 2.5 Swap | What You Need to Know!
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- Another Miata enters the shop with a very suspicious sound emanating from the engine. Well, since the motor is toast, let's swap it for a 2.5! Brandon discusses and shows you the steps and parts to swap from the 2.0 liter to a 2.5. Parts needed for the swap are listed below.
Required parts list
• Duratec (Mazda L) 2.5L motor (preferably Ford origin for better internals)
• Wiring pigtail to VVT solenoid on the
2.5L motor (Ford WPT1251)*
• VVT solenoid gasket from 2.5L valve cover (Ford BR3Z-6C535-B)*
• Larger injectors (2.5L white-stripe injectors will work for a standard swap)
• Balance shaft delete kit
(massivespeedsystem MAEN'8647)
• Timing tool kit for Duratec motors (for installing crank pulley)
(massivespeedsystem MATO'8754)
• Laser iridium spark plugs (NGK
LTR5BI-13 if NA)
• Serpentine belt 905K6 or 5060905)
(for cars with AC)
• Dipstick (Mazda PE07-10-450)
• 2x diamond washers for crank assembly (Ford 1S7Z-6378-AA OR
Mazda L3H5-11-407)**
• Crank bolt - (Ford 1S7Z-6A340-AA OR Mazda LF01-11-406)**
• 2x Cam bolt - (Ford CV6Z-6279-A OR Mazda L568-12-428)**
• 2x Diamond washers for cam (FORD 6M8Z-6278-A OR MAZDA L3K9-12-
429)**
• Tube of RTV/liquid gasket
Kits available at
www.arhindrichs.com/store
*Not necessary to order if it comes with the
2.5L. Refer to section 2.
**One-time use part. Do not reuse.
Additional helpful part numbers
• Exhaust studs on head (Mazda
LFE2-10-104)
• Header-to-midpipe studs (Mazda
L3M7-40-584)
• Alternate front engine cover which does not require modification for belt clearance (Mazda LAW-10-500)
• Alternate block breather which does not require modification for intake manifold clearance (Ford 4L5Z-6A785-AA)
• Alternate head bolts from EcoBoost motor (Ford AG9Z-6065-A)
• MazdaSpeed valve springs (Mazda
L3K9-12-125)
• 34mm VVT solenoid -
6M8Z6M280AA (OEM 2.0L or earlier
2.5L motors)
• 34mm VVT gasket - 5M8Z6584AA (OEM 2.0L or earlier 2.5L motors)
• 30mm VVT diameter solenoid - CJ5Z6M280A (later model 2.5L
motors)
• 30mm VVT gasket - BR3Z6C535B (later model 2.5L motors)
List of OEM coolant system part numbers:
• NE51-61-24X Short fat upright hose behind head
• LFG2-15-18Y Hose & pipe assembly from thermostat to radiator
• LFG1-15-184A Upper radiator degas to reservoir hose
• LFG1-15-381B Larger hose from radiator to reservoir
• NE51-61-2EX Longer heater hose
• NE51-61-2EY Shorter heater hose
• LFG1-15-18XC Hose & pipe assembly from radiator to rear of engine, includes throttle body hose
• LFY1 15 0D0 Cide of head to reservoir hose
• LFE2-15-260A Hose under intake manifold
• LFE2-15-169 Rear water outlet gasket
• NE51-61-24YA Heater pipe to coolant tree hose
• LFG2-15-536 thermostat to coolant tree (without oil cooler)
• intake manifold runner (may be ported to match 2.5L head).
• EGR valve & rear coolant outlet
4. Upgrades & maintenance to consider "while you're in there"
• Rear main seal
• Front main seal
• Valve cover gasket
• Replace starter
• Clean/upgrade intake manifold
• Clutch/flywheel
• Upgraded block breather
• Motor mounts
• EGR delete
• Cams
• Radiator
• Header/full exhaust
• Oil cooler
• Turbo/supercharger system
• Catch can
• Heat shielding transmission tunnel,
engine bay, exhaust components, etc.
• LFE3-15-54YB Thermostat to oil cooler (with oil cooler)
• LFE2-15-536B Oil cooler to coolant tree (with oil cooler)
• L309-15-271 Pipe above thermostat assy, pressed into block
3. Parts needed from NC 2.0L
• oil pan
• oil pressure switch on oil filter perch (green)
• valve cover
• crank pulley
• fuel rail
• intake manifold
• pulleys & tensioner
• accessories
• intake manifold runner (may be ported to match 2.5L head).
• EGR valve & rear coolant outlet
4. Upgrades & maintenance to consider "while you're in there"
• Rear main seal
• Front main seal
• Valve cover gasket
• Replace starter
• Clean/upgrade
intake manifold
• Clutch/flywheel
• Upgraded block breather
• Motor mounts
• EGR delete
• Cams
• Radiator
• Header/full exhaust
• Oil cooler
• Turbo/supercharger system
• Catch can
• Heat shielding transmission tunnel,
engine bay, exhaust components, etc.
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I wish I could find room in my life to own a Miata.
You can. I couldn't and I did. Best decision I have ever made.
I'm interested to know your obstacles to owning a Miata. This sounds like a challenge for me as well as for you. I am a psychotherapist and mediator. What are all the barriers that fall under the umbrella of "...room in my life"? I love my NB, I am not wealthy by any means, and I love cars and offroad trucks.
@@67scout73 Have you heard of the concept called humour?
Remember folks, oil is cheaper than a new engine.
Yea wish i knew this before lmao
@@earl8590 knowing is half the battle
That’s a nice looking 69 Firebird behind you 😎
An easy way to remove pilot bearings without damaging is packing grease into the void, and then using the alignment tool, and lightly tap it with a hammer, and it will hydraulic the bushing, or bearing out. Great video.
That was informative. Thanks for the video, bro.
Great video
Thanks for an informative video as always!
And thank you for your support. It is greatly appreciated.
I agree with the fluid changes. I like to get on my car every once in a while. I don't track it. But I know cause the way I like to drive I need to be on top of fluid changes. Every 3K.
While I appreciate the shout out in the video description I must criticize your technique for assembling the motor. People have had motors fail for being assembled more meticulously than you have here. Both crank diamond washers should be replaced, the crank pulley should always be countered when torqueing, and you never touch the diamond washers on the faces! Please go review my instructions and videos more in depth to help improve your future methodology.
I couldn't see the shout out 😂
@@SleepingSavage It wasn’t a shout out so much as they blatantly copied and pasted from the document I wrote about how to 2.5 swap and inadvertently had my info in it. 🫠
This should be the top comment!! We have one guy in our miata chat that destroyed his 2.5 engine because of not replacing the diamond washers.
One screw unscrewed on the crank pulley => valves were stuck in half-open position => BAM - pistons and valves met each other.
Don't screw with diamond washers (heavy dislike to manufacturers who use them but that's the new reality) and replace all of them
@@SleepingSavage It wasn’t really a shout out. They verbatim copy and pasted my “how to” document into the video description and my website tag happens to be in there.
Am I right to assume that since I always see swaps with this version of the 2.5 liter, it's just not possible to use one of the newer Mazda Skyactiv 2.5 engines?
In sure you can. Its the price
You rock bro!! Is it the LG3 cam cover that prevents you having to grind?
How much to swap this into my b2200? I’m in Tucson!
This swap costs $5600 but you would need more work for mounts, custom hoses and all the wiring/ecu from a Miata .
Not to mention a transmission
@@brandonwelsh2743
$5600? It's a $300 engine and doesn't even need new mounts
I can’t wait to do this
Which dipstick should be used? The 2.0 or 2.5? Amazing write up in your description by the way. I saved it for near future use! Thanks for the vid/info!! Super helpful!
Dipstick (Mazda PE07-10-450)
I exclusively use royal purple in my tracked 2.5 swap. Not listening to the haters, its never failed me once.
Thanks for the video, but there is too much shortcuts... there is two washers because one goes behind the oil pump sprocket, bolts are torque to yield, you are supposed to put a new one... you are lucky you didn't bent the timing tool or cracked the timing cover with the bolt while timing it (there is a tool to keep the damper from spinning), etc, etc :(
It hurts my eyes.... Using impact gun for tightening crank pulley that is hold in place only by positioning bolt .... best way how to destroy your timing cover. That M6 bolt screwd into aluminium cover is not suposed to hold that in place but only set position. You have to hold it against tightening force by tool. Also use new crank bolt everytime its TTY bolt non reusable.
All in what price range would be reasonable for this job and that’s including additional kits? This is assuming a shop like yours completes the project.
I've been seeing anywhere from 1500 to 3000 for labor. An engine is like 300-1000 depending on where ya get it. All in conservative estimate with bits and bobs, top end is probably 5k.
Dang! Not as simple or quick swap as other ppl are showing in other videos 😱
Can you tell me what vvt o ring seal I need to get for this swap?
Looks like these cranks need a pin kit ala the LS with a blower...
Why do you hate royal purple. I’m on my third Mazda on the way to 300,000 miles in my passenger car with 10k oil changes. I just replaced the valve cover gasket at 160k and my motor still looks almost new . I don’t track my car though. Just run it up and down the highway everyday.
Hey, sorry maybe I missed it but better ask twice, do you need ecu from 2.5l engine ?
Use the ECU from the Miata but be sure to get it tuned for the 2.5 👍
So, the Miata transmission just bolts up?
bro why you don't use diesel oil? it's far better than petrol oils. I always use castrol or shell 5w40 diesel oils
Interesting....
I was told that the additives in diesel oil is great for the engine but bad for the catalytic converter. is it true? I don't know.
does anyone know if this 2.5l swap would have about the same process if it was in place of a 1.8l instead?
or would it even work or fit ?
There are some differences in doing a 1.8l versus the 2.5l. Brandon is not sure just what the differences are but he's gonna do a bit of research to find the procedure.
Not saying you're wrong... But its a positional torque value, not 76-90 as a range to be within?! 76 being minimum, 90 max?
😊
What year 2.5 engine did you use?
15:42 This is not how to do it!
You need to hold the crank pulley with a special tool or else you will ruin your front cover. that little bolt cant handle that torque.
Why is this more popular than a 2.0 eco boost though?
Why the hate on Royal Purple?
Never seen anything good from it, most of the time engines run worse with it in them. I’ll only use Royal purple to cool drill bits.
That's an ecoboost water pump.
From the 2.3’s? That makes sense.
@@brandonwelsh2743 yep, pn EJ7Z-8501-H
What year eco boost water pump
@@champjames969 2016 will work
Really? If that's the case, thank you for mentioning here?
Torque wrench need not appy..
Awesome video, very informative!!