Seized Balance Shaft - VW 2.0T TSI
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2017
- The engines balance shaft seized in the Mk5 2.0T Jetta Wolfsburg. Luckily the timing chain didn't jump, so pistons did not hit valves. We had to pull the engine and It took us a full month to source out all the required parts and tools to get the job done. Looking back it would have been easier to find a second hand engine and drop it in, but on the bright side, we learned a lot about this complex German engineered engine, and it's now running happy. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
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Ayyy! Nice job! LOL on how many times I was close to crying like I dropped my ice cream cone. That feeling when you crank it up tho...
Haha thanks! Oh yes, there were many desperate moments, it really does add to the anticipation. Definitely a good feeling at the end!
@@WannabeTuners hey good vid. glad you got it sorted. nightmare for sure. what sealant did you use on the balance shaft chain tensioner on the crush washer? think i got mad leak from this sucker right now
@@JH-sc7cs thanks, ah damn that blows. Didn't put sealant, just blue loctite on the threads. But if I had to use sealant, id go with permatex ultra black RTV, it'll be super hard to remove though
@@WannabeTuners in guessing intense vibration pulsation from that tensioner has caused it to loosen a bit and allowing oil to spew out. A lil bit of rtv black I guess is all it needs with proper torque. Will check it out and report back. Thanks for the reply
"Okay...the next step is cry"..... I love this channel.
One of the best vids on youtube showing all the timing components, great reference for timing job on this engine
Ryan Tornai Thanks brother! I'm glad you found it useful ☺
Did you use the timing tool kit that includes the cam locks etc? How difficult is it to get the timing chain on? Thanks
I used the timing service tool set from ecstuning (I'm sure other places sell it too but it was the cheapest I could find from ecs) - Part numbers below.
I found it difficult to get the timing chain on, especially with the guides taking up a lot of the room. I used the cam locks and had to wiggle the cams with an open end wrench (there's a flat profile on the camshaft that lets you do this). Once everything is in place, you have to be careful because the chain is pretty tight even without the tensioner. It will jump teeth if you aren't careful. We had it jump teeth a few times and had to re-position the chain a couple times until everything stayed in place. Hope that helps!
part number: 020946SCH01A
ecs part number: ES#3145737
@@WannabeTuners How many turns before the colored links should line up with the cam adjuster marks ? I thought it was 8 and they should be right on marks at Cylinder 1 TDC ? agggh!!!! Mine is walking counter clockwise the more revolutions I turn it .... IDK why ? Thanks for your responses you have been extremely helpful to all who ask
@@blurmgru6632 from what I read in the past it's many many turns (like close to 100 or something). I can't remember if it was for the timing chain or balance shaft. I only made sure they were lined up initially after the tensioner was on and everything was tight. I didn't turn It over to line them up again
the guy helping you really knows what he is doing, keep him around!
WOW! Super video! Things are so much more understood when presented the way you did. Your video and instructions are spot on. Unfortunately I'm not mechanically inclined so my 2.0T TSI Eos is going in the shop this week for a new timing kit at the tune of $2,200 USD. 😔
Thanks much appreciated! I love the eos! It's annoying how expensive these cars are on maintanence, most of the cost is in the parts anyway!
Good Luck 👍
Wow great work!
on a side note,i asked you guys what tips you had before i did the timing chain replacement and all that stuff with the actuator. It worked,it's alive. My Mazdaspeed 6 is alive. Thank you guys. awesome video
Thanks man, glad it's up and running again!
Dude, I can feel your pain in this vid lol. So many frustrating moments so far in the rebuild of the A4 B8. Most recently, snapped one of the exhaust manifold studs off, flush with the head..... Spent 4 hours last night trying to get it out. Still a no-go.
Nice vid, btw.
Thanks! Oh man that's rough, good luck with the extraction of the stud, fingers crossed man! It's definitely a love-hate relationship with these engines!
Thanks, man. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for taking your time and uploading this video! Did you find any particles at the bottom of the oil pan? I'm going thru a hard time just fixed the engine and cylinder head and did replaced balance shaft at the same time while there and now engine seized and oil is super contaminated with bunch of white pieces of plastic also I had a overheating then it shuts down while driving and engine seized.
Just started my timing job last night on my 09 GLI. Camshaft bridge screen was blown out. Found it sitting in the oil passage. Going to remove remaining screen, clean and re-install. Thanks for the helpful video btw one of many resources I used. My first timing job.
Ryan Tornai Awesome, let us know if you have any questions
Ive got everything in time and torqued down. But I literally cant get the cam bridge to go back on. Is there any trick?
I had the same problem, pain in the @$$. Are you having trouble getting the exhaust and intake camshafts through the two holes in the cam bridge? I put a wrench on the "flat spot" on one of the camshafts and tried wiggling/rotating one of the cams just to get it to line up while trying to press the bridge on. Just rocking one of the cams back and forth. Careful not to let the chain skip a tooth, just enough to get the cam to shift slightly so that both cams line up with the holes in the cam bridge. I don't remember full details but I remember swearing, and a huge amount of relief when it finally went on.
Thanks ill try that next. Literally have been fighting with it for over an hour. This is after spending 3 hours trying to get the timing chain on. Kept jumping teeth, not lining up, even cam locks didnt help much. Long day lol...
Those outbursts in this video were a very real representation of what it's like to work on timing this engine (that's also why the actual placement of the chain wasn't filmed, lots of failed attempts and the last thing on my mind was positioning the camera and recording). I feel your pain, let me know how it goes!
Hello my freind, just saw your video & wanted to ask you a question about an issue happening with me as i am a mecanique and i have a customer with this same problem, engine stalled while driving and it turned out that the both intake and exhaust balancers were blocked (not turning), replaced the balancers (not OEM) with all the timing parts as well, after a week the engine stalled again, the plastic filters on the balaners were melted down, replaced the balancers for the 2nd time (OEM part), the engine stalled again with the same issue (filters are melting down inside the balancers causing the balancers to get blocked), the engine oil cooler is ok and the oil pressure is ok with no warnings on board, are you familiar with this problem? Thanks in advance.
Well good job ha and ya sorta thinking of going back to hondas mine has a oil leak and needs new seals a shop said 1200$ for seals lol if it blows it blows I will just put oil in every few days ha and also bought a broken b7 Audi lol
Good perseverance there through some tough times. I just brought an a3 2.0 tfsi(tsi) so naturally I subscribed straight away. I'm planning stage 2. Am I correct in thinking you was running stage 2 when it happened?
Hey awesome! Love the A3's. Correct I was stage 2 when it happened but I don't blame stage 2 on bearing failure. My belief is the engines don't like bad shifts that cause quick changes in rpm. Since the balance shafts spin faster than the crank and are literally off-balance weights, it puts a hard strain on the balance shaft bearings during a miss-shift without proper rev matching
@@WannabeTuners ahhh I see dude. Would I ever get a miss shift with a dsg? Yeah the a3 is the in misano red I believe maybe wrong but s line s tronic(dsg) Quattro with ok only 54k fsh (audi) with huge potential.....What power does stage 2 sit at? I think your k04 though aren't you??🤙🤙
@@davidkane9876 nice colour! I've never driven a dsg so I'm not sure if the controller has a safety lockout from screwing with the paddles at the wrong time, don't test it Hahaha. Yea the Jetta has a ko4 now, it still feels sluggish in hot weather even with water/meth spraying but there's a never ending list of mods we can do with these engines, so if you like modding, there's a tonne of parts out there for what you just bought =)
@@WannabeTuners Lol I won't be testing it for sure bud. But yeah my journey is just beginning as I just did an intake and the big brake set up to start the transformation. And it looks pretty much the same as an s3 to the untrained eye lol😎
@@davidkane9876 haha nice! My front brakes are stock but what did you go with? I'll have to get ideas when it comes time to change mine lol
Same exact thing happen to me, the intake balance shaft looks just like yours. The balance shaft rubbed into the timing chain guide rails too. My question is did you buy the removal tool to remove the balance shafts? The engine is still in the car and i got it all apart just dont feel like shelling out the money for the tool.
Sorry to hear about that. I didn't buy the puller tool. I got lucky and the intake balance shaft came out easy. The exhaust balance shaft was stuck so I had to knock it loose from the transmission side by removing a freeze plug in the block.
how did you guys clean out the oil passages? i just blew through another intake balance shaft after having the screens fail one time before
also you can put the cam bridge on with the engine timed up already and the tensioner released just need to rock the cams a bit
what symptoms were you experiencing prior to this problem? any codes?
No symptoms whatsoever, all that happened was I didn't rev high enough when downshifting back into 3rd gear, so the transmission sort of jolted which then caused the balance shaft to seize. It was actually very surprising. It was probably on it's way out, but again no symptoms prior.
How did you reinstall the plastic baffle on the exhaust balance shaft?
According to my friend, it's easier to clip it on the balance shaft first and assemble together with that notch on the end facing up. The seam has to be facing down so it shields the balance shaft from the engine oil properly :)
@@WannabeTuners thought of doing the exact same thing. Thanks dude!
My balance shaft from intake side was locked, I ordered new balance shafts, do you think it’s a good idea to remove the screen from the balance shaft?
Ahh good question, I struggled with this idea too but I just kept them in. The second time I was in the engine I did notice that the screen for that cam cradle that goes on both camshafts blew out again and this time I didn't replace it, no trouble with that one being screenless so far lol
Wannabe Tuners I think that’s why they fail, because the screens get clogged and the balancer runs without oil.
@@XKRYSXX that sounds like one of the ways, but sometimes I notice the screen being heavily blown out and damaged without any sludge or blockage on what remains of the screen material. Makes me think oil pressure over time is enough to blow these out! I think if you're diligent with oil changes and regular filter changes it may be okay as long as small particles dont get into the bearing race. I'm interested in the idea, I just couldn't bring myself to rip them out of the new shafts because of the pain they cause my wallet
Went through this exact thing. Balance shaft seized. Lucky the timing wasn't affected. Replaced a ton of parts since i was at 160k km. (Timing chain, aluminum water pump, oil pump, carbon clean, aluminum RMS, etc)
What kind of "wearing in" did you do after replacing everything?
I just drove it normally as no major bearings/seals were replaced for this job. The idle sprocket and intake balance shaft mate with that anti-backlash coating, but I couldn't find any break-in information for it. I took it easy on the car for a week or so due to my nervousness of all the money spent on fixing it lol. These balance shafts really make for an expensive fix when everything including the lower timing cover is "one time use" :).
@@WannabeTuners Yeah, my mechanic found out about the "one time use" with the idle sprocket today LOL, it was a very expensive job.
@@YuStudios That one stupid sprocket cost me 160CAD lol. I feel your pain. The balance shafts alone are around 400 but the whole bill of parts to do the job "properly" makes it a couple grand :(
@@WannabeTuners yepp I did everything and the bill hit around 4k max. Then my mechanic told me he wasn't aware of how many extra parts needed to be replaced bc of one time use, so my bill is going to be even more now 🥴
@@YuStudios Yup, That's the volkswagen life lol. They hate our wallets
Okay, I need to go to the knowledge well again please. I'm doing a balance shaft replacement on a Mk6 Gti. I'm getting hung up because I have assumed that the new balance shaft tube is going to lock into place inside the block. I've fashioned a tool from a coat hanger to pinch the seam together and was waiting for some magical "click" and it would be locked in place. Do I Simply slide it in with the new balance shaft? if so is the seam up or down please?
The easiest method seems to be popping the tube around the balance shaft first and sliding them in together. You want that little "nub" on the end of the tube to be on top cause it hangs on a ridge in the casting on the transmission side of the block (seam down). You should be able to push the tube onto the balance shaft to the point where it sits on snug. Hope that helps!
@@WannabeTuners Thank YOu!
@@charlesmaxwell1911 no worries! You'll know it worked if the balance shaft slides all the way in to where the flange for that single torx bolt complely bottoms out. At that point I like to spin the shaft by hand to see if it spins freely
www.timingchainsettlement.ca/
Hey Wannnabe Tuners
I have question for you ...... If neither of my balance shafts are seized but am trying to solve “OIL PRESSURE LOW “ problem ...... Would you check the balance shafts ? Blow out on the tiny mesh filters possibly ? Or would you skip it
Ha ha not only does it say “ Engine Off” it also says
“ Have Shop Service “ in white font vs the red font .....
I owned an 06 and got the
“engine off “ but never take it to the “ shop “
What do think ? If they are not seized leave them alone ?
By the way nice job on this post ...... got a bunch of questions I had answered
Hey, I'd start by looking at other areas like the oil pressure switch itself, the oil pump, main bearings, and rod bearings etc. I'm guessing here but I really think that if the balance shaft bearings are worn to the point of having a low oil pressure light, youd hear/feel it and the balance shafts would possibly become damaged. That's just my guess I could be wrong! Goodluck with the troubleshooting man!
Matt did you solve your low oil pressure problem? I facing the same w/ hot engine and idle. The pressure was below spec. >2000 rpm the pressure is on the spec.
How did you remove the balance shafts???
At the time we didn't have a proper slide hammer puller tool, so the freeze plug on the other side of the block was removed, and the balance shaft was tapped out.
Hey man quick question when tightening the left hand thread bolt on the water pump shaft i used the socket and ratchet to lock the crankshaft but for some reason even with the crankshaft locked the balance shaft still spins have you ever noticed this? and how did you get the balance shaft to lock so you can install the water pump gear? thanks
I don't think it should spin if the balance shaft chain is connected to the balance shaft and crank shaft. I made the mistake of taking the chain off first before removing the water pump pulley so I had a friend prop a pry bar between the balance shaft gear teeth and the block (was very careful, big risk of breaking something) to hold it.
@@WannabeTuners OK thanks going to get a bolt off an old engine I would double check and see how it feels maybe something is wrong with mine
@@shimon2476 sounds good, good luck. The water pump pulley is reverse thread and you're not alone in that it feels really stuck for such a small bolt
@@WannabeTuners thanks for the help man will keep you updated! also what was the torque spec was reading it was 9 nm?
@@shimon2476 damn i can't remember the torque spec sorry. I didn't use a torque wrench which was risky but it never came loose on me
I’m thinking about buying a 2010. The owner says they did the timing etc tho now the balance shafts need replaced. I’m skeptical. For your build what did you spend in parts
If they say the balance shafts need to be replaced I would steer clear away from it, honest opinion. That's coming from me actually liking these cars lol. I spent around 3,000 canadian. A lot of the hardware is listed as "one time use torque to yield" as well. It's best to find something that runs unless you're buying it for the sole purpose to wrench on it. The trouble is that it's never just ONE thing thats broken. If somethings locked up or damaged, you don't know how much is broken until you tear it all apart. Hope that helps man! :)
Wannabe Tuners I’ve never had a TSI only the FSI. I always heard about the advantages of the TSI over the FSI. Currently I’m thinking I was misinformed. Sorry i missed where everything was listed when I was viewing at work. Luckily for my deep VW passion the sale is currently pending. It would be a wrencher as the daily is a Lexus GS 🔥 thanks for the swift response. Still running that jetta??
@@davefrank5245 haha no worries. I totally know what you mean about TSI vs FSI. The TSI has a high pressure fuel pump that can handle up to k04 sized turbos and it seems like the stock bottom end is stronger on the TSI engines. Timing chains look good on paper but the earlier model TSI engines (2008-2010) had bad timing tensioners that needed to be upgraded so there definitely are some problems. I think if there's passion, it shouldn't scare you away, and it seems like you already know how V-dubs tend to be passion projects and aren't the best in terms of parts cost and simplicity haha. but definitely shop around a bit for something that is in better shape. I'm still running the jetta. I've since blown the engine and have rebuilt it again. That rebuild video will be up in about a month or so. Good luck on your search for a good TSI, keep us updated!
I have about the exact same project going on a 2010 Gti, please tell me how to remove the balance shaft tube? I see that mine is damaged on the exhaust side, I have a new one but have know Idea how to remove.
Do you mean the black plastic tube or the balance shaft itself? The manual says to use a slide hammer to take out the balance shaft. Mine was soo seized that I had to hammer out the freeze plug on the opposite side of the engine and hammer the exhaust balance shaft from the transmission side so that it falls out the timing side. As for the plastic piece, I just grabbed onto it with long pliers and pulled it out.
Thanks, the exhaust shaft tied up but popped out with a flat blade screwdriver behind the bolt tab. I was over thinking the plastic tube. I'm in NW Ohio and now say "chooched" all the time now when something is broken.
@@charlesmaxwell1911 hahaha nice! glad you got it out, these engines are "FUN" to work on lol. I love saying "chooched" haha I think I got it from AvE here on youtube
Hello i have the same issue, my exhaust balancer shaft seized but upon removal of the shaft i found that the balance shaft is bit covered by melted plastic. Should i just change the shaft or their is more damage to it? Please assist
It's hard to know exactly what's damaged, and it depends on how much you want to replace while you're already in the engine. It gets expensive. Try and find out what looks worn out and replace those things. Melted plastic could just be the plastic balance shaft cover which should be replaced. Make sure it isn't the timing guides that wore out too.
@@WannabeTuners cheers
How You take the balance shalft out
Hey, our reply to Gordo Millones in the comments here describes it. I think we re-wrote the reply to another comment in this comment section to. Let us know if that clears it up. if not, we will try to add to any other questions.
Is the intake balance shaft supposed to move when I move the crank? My car is overheating. CCTA engine. Water pump is good. Balance shaft scrocket where the water pump isn't moving when I rotate the crankshaft.
And also. Where can I get the procedure for this?
Yes you are right the balance shaft is supposed to move when you move the crank. I had the same issue with temp gauge climbing, this is because the balance shaft drives the waterpump so the water pump wont move if the balance shaft is stuck. I bought a subscription to the manual from AllDataDiy.com. It has the procedures and torque specs for timing related components. When you turn the crank, the balance shaft should move, if the balance shaft does not move, but the crank still spins, the balance shaft may have seized and thrown off or broken the balance shaft chain. IF the balance shaft is fine, you can check the belt that connects the balance shaft to the water pump.
Wannabe Tuners yesterday I turned the crank and watched the pulley on the water pump side. No movement. I'll take the cover off and see if it's just the chain or the shaft. I just bought a 2009 Wolfsburg edition with 98k for 1200 with the cbfa engine. For super cheap. I flip cars. Thanks for the video!!!
No problem! When I spun the crank after my shaft seized and chain flew off you could hear the grinding yet the engine was still in time due to the timing chain being fine. It's possible that something sheared clean off without damaging the crank sprocket. Let me know if you have any other questions, take care!
Wannabe Tuners how did you remove the seized balance shaft? I haven't removed the engine. Have everything open already. Only the balance shaft on the intake side is seized.
I'm here piecing back together my 09 gti.. HOW did you end up getting the stupid plastic shroud on the exhaust side balance shaft back in?! I ran out of patience, but have to wait to be sent the rest of my parts that weren't delivered to me anyway. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks for the vid, no one has actual balance shaft timing vids up.
Ohhhhh man I'm so sorry you have to deal with that and at the same time I'm glad I'm not the only one who had that issue. One method that I found works (still hard) is to put the plastic shroud onto the balance shaft first (plastic notch on top) and try sliding it all in as one unit. It's one of the most frustrating steps man. Best of luck, let us know how it goes!
@@WannabeTuners Right on, I'll give it a shot tonight. The Alldata service manual says to put the notch into the hole at the back of the block first, but it's more of a ledge from what I can see? Of course it doesn't want to stay there either haha. Thank you!
Yeah, went from my 275k mile WRX to this "more reliable/less maintenance cause it's got half the miles" GTI in July, exhaust shaft froze and left me stranded on Thanksgiving. Been one hell of a journey. FCPEuro didn't send me the oil pan gasket or the TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER in their TIMING KIT..... -__- We'll see.
I was getting an occasional "STOP! ENGINE OFF! OIL PRESSURE" message on the dash that I hadn't been able to diagnose. Turns out it was probably the shaft's oil passages being boned. Out of curiosity, any similar thing for you or did it just go one day?
@@travishollingsworth7122 ah sorry to hear. it seized for me after a bad downshift. No oil pressure warnings though. These balance shafts seem like the weak point of these engines. Yeah the notch was a ledge for me too and haha nope it doesn't like to stay there and it's hard as balls to line the balance shaft to the journal bearing on the far end of the block while trying to keep the plastic on. It's a mess of a design! The good thing is if you try to put the balance shaft in with the plastic on it, if the plastic falls off, it shouldn't let you push the balance shaft all the way in because of the misaligned notch. So if it does all slide in fully, chances are its in correct and the notch was aligned. Then spin the shaft around a bit to make sure you don't hear grinding plastic. " The feeling when it finally goes in is like no other "
@@WannabeTuners Gotcha. Mine was a bad upshift! Yeah it's a pos, miss my boxer right now.. Balance who? xD
Great, I'll give that a go for sure! Got the updated intake manifold, all the timing stuff, injector kit, and a coolant outlet pipe I busted. Only thing I'm undecided on is clutch.. Don't see the need for a dual mass replacement, what's up with that price point??? How are you liking the single mass conversion?
@@travishollingsworth7122 haha boxers sound awesome too! I used to want a Subi, but I couldn't find a low miles one for a good price.
The single mass flywheel is pretty sweet. The lower inertia makes rev matching quicker and overall rpm changes more rapid. The pedal is MUCH stiffer than stock with this pressure plate though.
The car does feel harder to drive with AC after the stage 2 clutch kit, the rpm between shifts drops noticibly quicker than with AC off
Famous last words . I don’t know where the screens went . Those screens have probably cost millions of dollars in engine repairs
Hey bud how were you able to remove both the balancing shafts? Mines wont rotate anymore
For the intake balance shaft: The water pump belt and drive pulley need to be removed. Next, take out the torx screw on the front of the balance shaft near the gear that the balance shaft chain goes (same for the exhaust balance shaft). at this point it will slide out. The service manual says you need a slide hammer. The other option is to remove a freeze plug/expansion plug on the transmission side of the block and hammer it out from that end. There is a bearing on the transmission side of the block that the balance shaft sits in, so make sure not to damage the soft metal. It was a pain in the ass and I didnt have a slide hammer, so I removed the freeze plug on the exhaust side balance shaft and hammered it out from transmission side to timing chain side. The intake side balance shaft slide out easy for me (luckily). Remember the water pump pulley gear that screws into the intake balance shaft is reverse thread(from what I remember). Hope that helps. Also, I had trouble finding a replacement freeze plug that fits so I had to reuse my old one (which isn't recommended).
@@WannabeTuners Thank you!!
Where did you find the service manual?? Pulling my TSI atm. Hope the balance shafts come out with little effort
@@tomkim5853 I had to buy a 1year subscription to alldatadiy . com/ to get access to the manual. My subscription has since expired sadly. If you have any questions about the job I'll do my best to try and remember but the manual from that site was worth it in my opinion, lots of goodies for other work too.
@@WannabeTuners thanks dude my exhaust shaft seized, sprocket spun out just like your intake shaft. I'll have to get in with all data since I can't find the manual anywhere else. Thanks for the reply btw, thanks for helping the community with the garbage ccta problems haha.
Can this fix low oil pressure?
I don't know exactly. If there are oil pressure issues it is more likely to be from somewhere else (main bearings, rod bearings, oil pressure switch and so on). My balance shafts seized before noticing any oil pressure issue
2:59 😆😆😆
Hey can you assist me please I'm changing the seal on the balance shaft that's behind the water pump gear when you remove the seal there is a small hole on the block on the bottom of the seal unfortunately the tip of my screwdriver broke off and a very small piece fell into this hole, can you tell me if this hole is directly connected to the sump pan etc or even better what does this hole do? does it supply oil to the seal?
Hi, That hole is an oil supply to the end of the balance shaft. If you look at the end of the balance shaft where the water pump pully sits, you will see that it is not perfectly round and has a bit of an indentation to allow oil lubrication (I am pretty sure as there is a similar one on the exhaust side balance shaft). I do not know how it routes through the block unfortunately. If you find out where the oil cavities feed that hole, you can maybe try blasting high pressure air from a compressor to try and blow the piece out. I have not removed the oil cooler assembly, but this might be where passages are located (I don't know for sure).
@@WannabeTuners Thank you for replying I tired pushing a thin piece of wire down into the hole to see if it goes straight to the sump but it only reaching about 3 to 4 inches in then bending so im thinking of taking the sump pan out and the plastic baffling and blowing compressed air through the hole and see what happens what do you think?
@@shimon2476 That could work if it's a drain to the sump, but I feel like it might be a feed to lubricate the end of the balance shaft rotating assembly. In which case it would probably connect to that aluminum oil cooler + oil filter housing. But sorry I don't know if its oil drain or feed. I don't have an active subscription with the workshop manual right now. Might be worth a shot to but I can't say for sure.
@@WannabeTuners not a problem i will take out the oil cooler and start there 1st what you are saying makes sense also where can i get a workshop manual that might have the info im looking for i dont mind if i have to pay thanks again for your help
@@shimon2476 I bought a 1year subscription from alldatadiy.com after watching another youtuber recommend it. It was pretty good, I might renew again when I need to
You should have just got the1.8t oil pump conversion kit the eliminates the faulty balance shaft. 500$ and well worth it. You will eventually run into the same problem again
I don't know if that will work with the 2.0T TSI. I think that kit works on the 2.0T FSI. The intake side balance shaft on the TSI drives the water pump on the other side of the engine, so im not sure how that would work.
What are the chances that you could have replaced these shafts with the engine still in the car? Were both shafts seized or just one? Do you know what caused this?
technically, we could have dropped the passenger side motor mount and tilted the engine downward to slide the balance shaft and clear the frame of the car. This would have been very hard as the exhaust side balance shaft was really stuck (these shafts are cooled and slid into place and then expand into a tight fit). An experienced technician (which I am not) would probably have better ways to go about the job lol. Only the intake side was seized but I was only able to find them as a pair, so I replaced both. I've read that the screens on the oil passages on the balance shaft like to fail (there were no screens left in my balance shaft) so maybe it was lubrication related. But in full honesty, the shaft failed after some driver error -> after some spirited driving, a rough shift caused the balance shaft to give out. It wasn't a terrible bearing-spinning mis-shift but it was enough to give the balance shaft a reason to quit, especially after all of the heat from a previous run. I have only seen 2 other cases after some googling where people had balance shaft seizing issues, so I would say it is very rare and no much of a worry. No issues after 15,000km since doing this job
Thanks for the reply and video. I haven't pulled the timing cover yet so I am not sure if this is my issue. All I know is that I can't rotate the engine more than about 5 degrees. I previously replaced the tensioner with the revised design so that better not be it. How did you get the shafts out? Do you know where online I can find the manual you were using?Mine is a Passat. Maybe I'll get lucky and the frame shape will allow the shafts to slide out. But probably not.
When my intake balance shaft seized the engine kept running but since the intake balance shaft drives the water pump, I could see my temp gauge climb since no coolant was being circulated - Just in case you noticed something similar before yours stopped rotating
To get the intake balance shaft out, it just slide out once i removed the torx bit and the sprocket for the water pump drive. There is a special pulling tool (slide hammer) to pull them out which I didnt have. For the exhaust side, I had to hammer out the freeze plug on the transmission side of the engine and hammer the exhaust balance shaft out from there (not fun). I bought the manual for my car from AllDataDiy.com which goes into detail on the torque specs of bolts and how things fit together (was really useful for this job). Good luck! let me know what you find, all the best. Another good video to watch is from the youtuber 512kjt, he replied to this video as well->his video is what made me feel better about timing the engine myself, his VW CC had a the famous tensioner failure
It looks like the exhaust balance shaft is frozen. Hard to say because I can only move the crank 5 degrees, but it looks like the idler and the intake balance shaft are moving. Don't see any movement on the exhaust shaft. Looks like cams are free and the oil pump is definitely free. If I can get the shafts free, I should be able to clear the frame by lowering the engine. Is that freeze plug inside the bellhousing or outside?
Haven't checked timing yet to know whether it jumped and did further damage. No gears are stripped and the tensioners are working.
Assuming I bother to repair this car at all. I didn't miss the part in the manual about selling and getting another brand. I just didn't listen.
Thanks again for the good info.
Any idea what the total cost of this job was?
Looking back, I should have found a salvage engine. I paid around 3,000 canadian (not including the clutch upgrade). The balance shaft repair kit was 350. Also Had to get a timing chain kit, idler sprockets, lower timing cover etc. I had to buy special tools to loosen that reverse thread nut on the intake camshaft as well. New hardware (so many bolts are said to be torque to yield so I replaced a lot of those as well). The cam bridge was a couple hundred dollars as well, new injector seals since they all came out with the intake manifold. new pcv-just because. Sorry i dont have a full list of the parts, but it really depends on the damage that was done. I am lucky that it didn't jump time and ruin the head. I think I got lucky, but I wasn't smart, I thought I was looking at 1grand in repairs but the bill added up quickly. If I had to do it again I'd be looking for a drop-in replacement, at least then I'd have a lot of spare parts (manifolds, turbo etc)
www.timingchainsettlement.ca/
What were the symptoms? My 2011 tiguan 2.0T tsi has a oil pressure light on, hopefully it's just the oil pressure sensor or the oil pump.. Worst case scenario I've been told is the balancer shaft..
In my case, when the shaft seized, the chain jumped off the sprocket so the major symptoms were the following:
1. Sound of chain grinding against the gear, eating it
2. Temperature climbing since the intake balance shaft drives the water pump (i know right? lol) so it wasn't circulating coolant .
3.The engine was shaking pretty badly, almost like a motor mount failed since the balance shafts were not doing their job in balancing.
As for oil pressure light, I did not have that. Its hard to say. Hopefully it's just your pressure switch, but when I did this job I noticed the oil pickup tube is a stupid plastic assembly, if that cracks, the pump wont be able to syphon oil from the sump. Good luck with your tiguan, it really is a love/hate relationship with these cars, I feel your pain :(
@@WannabeTuners definitely! I love my car but sometimes it really puts me in terrible situations 😂 I've already changed the intake manifold twice in 100 000 Km
In my case I feel like the oil is circulating because I've driven it about 20 km back home after the oil light came on, and when I open the oil cap with the engine on some oil drips splashes out. there wasn't any weird sounds that I noticed and the car ran fine back home. I'll be going to VW tomorrow and get a new sensor hopefully that fixes it,
Thanks for your prompt response!
@@adrianborinsky2989 Fingers crossed! Give us an update on the situation! Sometimes I wish there was more info on these platforms online. TheHumbleMechanic has some great info in his videos but these engines prove to be so complex that there is always something unknown! When I bought my car the intake manifold was damaged at the brackets that hold the low pressure fuel hose and I am pretty sure it was a sign that the previous owner replaced the manifold. If the manifold runner flap motor/etc fails again I am going to throw an Integrated Engineering or HPA manifold in there!
@@WannabeTuners thanks, will keep you updated hopefully tomorrow I have time to go to VW after work
Are there any videos on how to remove the balance shafts? Mines is stuck and it won't rotate anymore
I bought a B8 A4 with a broken valve spring in #2 and a bent valve as a result of it.....took the cylinder head off, rebuilt it...put it all back together....wouldn't start
Redid the timing , found nothing wrong...realized it had 60psi compression.....soaked rings in MMO for a week, cranked it forever...started up, smoked like a chimney..... compression came up a bit to 166psi all across......no lights on, drove like a champ......46.5 miles then the engine shut off and wouldn't move again.....my guess is one of the balance shafts (or both) seized up. Fuck this car, I gotta take it apart again.....third time is the charm, eh? 😑👎
Wouldn't it be better to just get rid of the screens?
Hey man nice video! Question just rebuilt this engine for a friend. Pistons , new head and so on. I’m getting a load noise and it’s annoying. I’m thinking it’s the oil pump but wanted to see what you thought. Here is a video of the noise please help thanks. ua-cam.com/video/_9c4oHUUdK8/v-deo.html
Its hard to pinpoint where that sound is coming from but the first thing i'd personally do is take off that top plastic timing cover since it has its own rubber gasket and is easiest to come off, and look down with a light and see if you can see anything out of place.
Another thing that it kind of sounds like is an accessory belt pulley. You could also try using a Mechanics Stethoscope to try and trace the source of the noise while it's running. Just be careful not to get it caught into any moving parts such as the accessory belt and cooling fan.
@@WannabeTuners thanks for the reply. literally loader at the bottom end where the bottom of the timing chain cover where the oil pump chain area is. This is why I was thinking the oil pump. Humm. This sucks lol
@@kaubut0145 Ah damn, Maybe a chain guide shifted or something? I'm completely guessing here. Damn.
@@WannabeTuners I’ll keep you updated.
My 1st only volks and now after 2800$ repair , this is the end !! If they cant build engines , i'm out ! 2L Turbo is too strong for the parts of this engine , what a pos car. SELL SELL SELL.... www.timingchainsettlement.ca/ Buy ACURA !! I would gladly exchange this pos for a YARIS GR FOUR which can carry it's ass at 257hp stock . My friend today has advised me to get rid of this piece of shit asap. let the kids have fun like they say until it breaks !!