I’m glad I found your videos! I was diagnosed with Covid today and am on quarantine. Hopefully it will pass and I get to feeling normal again. In the meantime, I’ll be watching you “do it the right way”! Be safe brother! Randy Chandler
Im wrapping things up for the season. I only do concrete until the end of October. I renovate houses during the cold months. But first Im gonna do some deer hunting buddy👍😊
Like the culvert shoots. Might add a 4x4, a 2x4 or piece of angle iron on the underside top to bottom, you can see the bottom bending and if the truck poors at the top before the stand it could bend quite a bit. Might also square the feet off for more contact area and less sinking.
Travis. Yes I agree. We will be doing a few mods to the chute next season. I need to spray foam the holes also to keep the concrete out of them. Thanks for the ideas bud. 👍😊
The only question I have for you, is that the radiant people say to install the tubing, pipe it up to the manifold. Then keep it pressurized at 50# to make sure you know right away if a tube gets cut. Have you ever had to go back and dig up a floor to repair a tube?
No we have never punctured a tube and have done 100’s of these floors. if your worried you can put the air to it but i don’t. Its up to you if you are comfortable with doing it. 😊
I have been there many times I have learned that when it's cold you need to use hot water and calcium. I have never lost a floor from it setting to fast came close but never yet at that was on a 90 degree day!
Ya same here. We came close a few times. Had to grind a few that it rained on. This was extremely cold day for our area. They had not started using hot water yet. I think all the aggregate sitting in the cold evening air all night and we poured early in the morning and that sucker would not dry. Hind sight I definitely would have put some high early or calcium with hot water in there. I learn from every job. Lol
Thanks for sharing ! I’m doing a 30x50 pole barn to work on equipment , what is better fiber reinforced concrete or using the wire mesh? I am also doing pex for radiant heat , with 5” thick slab. I can’t seem to find good answers .
If cost is not an issue put a wire mesh mat down to tie the tubing to and then put another mat on top of the tubing and only pull up the top wire leave the wire with the tubing on bottom. then put fibers in the concrete as well. It depends on what the building is used for. We have done some with rebar over the wire mesh held up on chairs because it was a shop that housed heavy equipment.
Bondo, I’m loving your videos and look forward to having a slab on grade home. We would like the slab as our finished surface. What is the next step after power troweling to get even more of a smoother/nicer looking finish?
Top vid. if you were grinding the floor down to see the aggregate, to make a polished concrete floor would you still vibrate it with the screed and still float it as much with powerfloat? Any tips welcome. Thanks
This is a speed shop how will they bolt the lifts to the floor without hitting the heating lines ? I have this kind of heating but it takes a long time to warm up my house . I hope they have plans to divide this place by thirds
Hello. Your videos are very informative and helpful. My question is where can I purchase plans for these type buildings. I want to build two buildings. One is a 30x48 and the second will be a 40x 60 or thereabout, with a mezzanine. Thank you
Most lumber supply places will have pole barm packages or you can get the plans on line. Do a google search fore pole barn and you will have many designs. I believe even the big box lumber stores like lowes and home depot sell pole barns. 👍👍
Nice work I am thinking of pouring the slab first for a pole barn maybe 12inches smaller all the way around to leave room for posts then finish perimeter after. Any thoughts on this or maybe you have done this?
looks like it turned out good but just curious why you didn't pour one half the long way of the building and then the other so you could have done it in two pours
Jay The first 30X40 was a living area so that heat tubing is on its own zone. We put 2" of foam in between that slab and the rest of the floor to isolate the heat. Then we did tubing for each section as we waited on the floor to dry. Hope that makes sense? It might make more sense in part 1 and 2 of this project. Thanks 👍
No not if it has radiant tubing in there. We put fibers in for reinforcement. The tubing is tied to the wire and needs to be at the bottom to work right and not get damaged. Thanks 👍
I noticed that when laying the tubing for radiant heat on your projects you run out of tubing and start with new tubing but it doesn’t look like you are connecting the end of the tubing to anything. Maybe I’m seeing wrong. Are you closing those loops of tubing or leaving them open? If you are closing these loops how do you close them?
David I have a couple of videos on tubing layout i’ll send ya. When we run a loop of tubing we will exit the slab and start a new run. eventually these loops get hooked to a common header one for supply and one for return.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks I will,check these out. I guess maybe I didn’t ask the question the right way. It looked like you ended a run of tubing on the layout but I think I must of not seen it correctly. I love you work and just found it today. Thanks for these awesome videos. I hope to be able to use them in the near future for my DIY projects.
I noticed that you cut reliefs in the concret. I was wondering how thick do you pour your floor at and how far into the floor do you cut, as to not cut the radiant hear lines?
I subscribed. These are really informative videos and put together really well. If I may ask, what would a floor the same size as that cost installed with the radiant piping?.
Just found your channel I know this video's been out a while but I wanted to ask you I know you have the radiant tubing in there but aren't you usually supposed to pull your wire up into the concrete how's that work with the tubing
Hi there. We don’t pull up if there is tubing unless the slab is over 6” deep. You will damage the tubing and have to jack hammer the floor out. We add fiber mesh in the concrete for extra reinforcement. The wire just holds the tubing where it needs to go. If there is no tubing in the slab we pull the wire up with hooks that we made. Thanks 😊
Nice work . How do you bid as an example concrete work ? Do you crew your projects ,ie so many men for so many days /hours , plus materials and miscellaneous. Also do you charge yourself for using equipment you own that you would otherwise need to rent . Thanks
Paul Yes time and materials I try to figure out ahead of time and I charge for how many hours I figure for my equipment also. Evdery job has a different challange so that can change the cost as well.
I would have done all that but it was mid October. Just one of those unseasonably cold and damp day. The other 2 sections went off perfect but this last piece just wouldn’t dry. Really caught me off guard but that’s how we learn. 👍👍
I’ve rolled up a lot of concrete blankets. Got 23 on my pickup once. Maybe I remember more. They were the yellow and green ones. Not the space blanket filled ones.
Drivers don't know much except driving truck and unloading. The plant makes the mix. I've pour tilt ups in the rain and covered, and power float in morning, not fun was on schedule.
Jay not sure what your talking about when u say tilt panels. This was a floor so you make no sense. We have to pour when we can get the trucks. This season was hard to get trucks and an inside pour is fine in the rain. It dries nice and slow. Nice thing about UA-cam is if you don’t like a channel you can just not watch it anymore. Thanks
@@bondobuilt386 Tilt Up panels are walls pored on top of slab and then tilted/ lifted up to make big industrial buildings. I use to pour a minimum 100 yards a day. For a small pour like yours in video we always used a small pump, pulled from back of a pickup truck, and set up screed pins, if you know what those are. Not saying you did anything wrong, just saying when your pour a lot of concrete all the time , you look for the cheapest fastest ways. I also said on one huge job on a tight schedule we had to pour panels in the rain.. we had 500,000 S.F. of slab and than tilt up panels. Back around 1984 in a very wet winter.
@@robertmccully2792 jay Roma was acting like I was pouring tilt up panels in the rain? Not sure why he said that. Lol We use pumps all the time buddy. Just not in the budget for this job. 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 if your also going to power trowel the slab mid range water reducer works really well, you can pour it at a 6” slump and after 30 minutes of it being on the ground it stiffens up to about a 4” slump. That stuff can be scary if you get a few trucks backed up with it in there but it works amazing in Utah winters for basements and garages.
@@bondobuilt386 maybe it’s the calcium in conjunction with the midrange that make for the concrete setting up so quick. If you can get the concrete out quick it works out well so you can Finnish the concrete to the polished Finnish in the winter quicker.
Looks great. How do you go about cutting the expansion joints in the concrete when it has the radian heat piping? Is there a minimum depth above the piping needed?
Does the concrete company charge for the time the truck spends at the site? Time is money and I can see where the concrete company needs to keep their trucks moving. A slow contractor can keep the truck on site for a longer period of time.
Great work again Ron. I like how you stick around to make sure the job is finished right. Glad to see you have your grandson out there helping.
Thanks Tom it was a long day for sure. My buddy John stayed until midnight with me. Great friend right there 👍
Hey Bondo Built always neat to watch the videos
Long day. Love the quality of your work and your interactions with your crew and family. Great stuff.
Thanks. I try to make it fun for the guys and turn out a real nice product at the same time.
Thanks for sharing Bondo, God bless you sir
Thank you got the king words as well. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. 😊
We should be starting our 40x90 shop pad today or tomorrow! Glad to finally see someone else pouring one. Good job!
Thanks. Awesome that must be super exciting. 👍😊
I’m glad I found your videos! I was diagnosed with Covid today and am on quarantine. Hopefully it will pass and I get to feeling normal again. In the meantime, I’ll be watching you “do it the right way”! Be safe brother!
Randy Chandler
Randy sorry to hear that bud. I hope you get well soon and thanks for watching my stuff. 😊👍
Lol! The boy fired a tooth! Great stuff! God bless the team
Yes he did. Lol Thank you so much and I’m glad you enjoyed it. 👍😊
Props to you for doing what it takes and staying late. Soon it will be time for hot water and accelerants in the mix
Im wrapping things up for the season. I only do concrete until the end of October. I renovate houses during the cold months. But first Im gonna do some deer hunting buddy👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 Modern gun,bow or muzzle loader?
@@Grunt49 bow all the way buddy. 👍👍
I like the “no BS” way you place concrete.
A lot of people over think it.
I totaly agree buddy. Thanks 👍😊
I see your son is very good at this
Yes thanks he is learning a lot. 👍😊
Like the culvert shoots. Might add a 4x4, a 2x4 or piece of angle iron on the underside top to bottom, you can see the bottom bending and if the truck poors at the top before the stand it could bend quite a bit. Might also square the feet off for more contact area and less sinking.
Travis. Yes I agree. We will be doing a few mods to the chute next season. I need to spray foam the holes also to keep the concrete out of them.
Thanks for the ideas bud. 👍😊
The only question I have for you, is that the radiant people say to install the tubing, pipe it up to the manifold. Then keep it pressurized at 50# to make sure you know right away if a tube gets cut. Have you ever had to go back and dig up a floor to repair a tube?
No we have never punctured a tube and have done 100’s of these floors. if your worried you can put the air to it but i don’t. Its up to you if you are comfortable with doing it. 😊
Turned out great. We'll start bringing the tripod lights pretty soon...... the late days are coming unfortunately. Part of the job though!
Frank we stop pouring concrete in November but that’s just me. Lol
I have been there many times I have learned that when it's cold you need to use hot water and calcium. I have never lost a floor from it setting to fast came close but never yet at that was on a 90 degree day!
Ya same here. We came close a few times. Had to grind a few that it rained on. This was extremely cold day for our area. They had not started using hot water yet. I think all the aggregate sitting in the cold evening air all night and we poured early in the morning and that sucker would not dry. Hind sight I definitely would have put some high early or calcium with hot water in there. I learn from every job. Lol
Thanks for sharing !
I’m doing a 30x50 pole barn to work on equipment , what is better fiber reinforced concrete or using the wire mesh? I am also doing pex for radiant heat , with 5” thick slab.
I can’t seem to find good answers .
If cost is not an issue put a wire mesh mat down to tie the tubing to and then put another mat on top of the tubing and only pull up the top wire leave the wire with the tubing on bottom. then put fibers in the concrete as well. It depends on what the building is used for. We have done some with rebar over the wire mesh held up on chairs because it was a shop that housed heavy equipment.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for your response , I didn’t consider wire on top of the pex but that’s a good idea
@@MrYahoo74 your welcome 👍
Bondo, I’m loving your videos and look forward to having a slab on grade home. We would like the slab as our finished surface. What is the next step after power troweling to get even more of a smoother/nicer looking finish?
You could polish it with a diamond grinder if you want it real shiny and seal it.
@@bondobuilt386 What if we prefer the dull, flat look as opposed to shiny?
@@billwilljulz you could stain it and seal it. No grind and polish
Top vid.
if you were grinding the floor down to see the aggregate, to make a polished concrete floor would you still vibrate it with the screed and still float it as much with powerfloat?
Any tips welcome. Thanks
I think I would hand screed it so the stone was near the surface.
This is a speed shop how will they bolt the lifts to the floor without hitting the heating lines ? I have this kind of heating but it takes a long time to warm up my house . I hope they have plans to divide this place by thirds
They will do the heat in 3 zones. They can use infer red to see where the tubes are. They did not know the way they would lay out the shop.
Hello. Your videos are very informative and helpful. My question is where can I purchase plans for these type buildings. I want to build two buildings. One is a 30x48 and the second will be a 40x 60 or thereabout, with a mezzanine. Thank you
Most lumber supply places will have pole barm packages or you can get the plans on line. Do a google search fore pole barn and you will have many designs. I believe even the big box lumber stores like lowes and home depot sell pole barns. 👍👍
Nice work I am thinking of pouring the slab first for a pole barn maybe 12inches smaller all the way around to leave room for posts then finish perimeter after. Any thoughts on this or maybe you have done this?
looks like it turned out good but just curious why you didn't pour one half the long way of the building and then the other so you could have done it in two pours
Jay The first 30X40 was a living area so that heat tubing is on its own zone. We put 2" of foam in between that slab and the rest of the floor to isolate the heat. Then we did tubing for each section as we waited on the floor to dry. Hope that makes sense? It might make more sense in part 1 and 2 of this project. Thanks 👍
Do you prop the wire mesh up with pieces of block to get it up off the plastic?
No not if it has radiant tubing in there. We put fibers in for reinforcement. The tubing is tied to the wire and needs to be at the bottom to work right and not get damaged. Thanks 👍
I will be in Wilson within the next week or two buying a sailboat. Maybe you could point me in the right direction.
You get that boat then???
Sorry I did not see this comment until now.
Did you not pressure test the tubing before you poured ??
No we never do. I have done probably 100 of these slabs and never had a problem with the tubing. 👍
I noticed that when laying the tubing for radiant heat on your projects you run out of tubing and start with new tubing but it doesn’t look like you are connecting the end of the tubing to anything. Maybe I’m seeing wrong. Are you closing those loops of tubing or leaving them open? If you are closing these loops how do you close them?
David I have a couple of videos on tubing layout i’ll send ya. When we run a loop of tubing we will exit the slab and start a new run. eventually these loops get hooked to a common header one for supply and one for return.
ua-cam.com/video/MrAUkIzB6yU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/MgAJmah0anM/v-deo.html
@@bondobuilt386 thanks I will,check these out. I guess maybe I didn’t ask the question the right way. It looked like you ended a run of tubing on the layout but I think I must of not seen it correctly. I love you work and just found it today. Thanks for these awesome videos. I hope to be able to use them in the near future for my DIY projects.
David your more than welcome. I’m glad you like the content and I hope they help your up and coming projects buddy. 😊
I noticed that you cut reliefs in the concret. I was wondering how thick do you pour your floor at and how far into the floor do you cut, as to not cut the radiant hear lines?
I subscribed. These are really informative videos and put together really well. If I may ask, what would a floor the same size as that cost installed with the radiant piping?.
Thanks for subscribing. A floor this size wiould be 20 K in this part of the country. I live in upstate New York. 👍
Non-chloride accelerator is your friend. Anytime the weather is below 5 degrees Celsius.
I did that. When I ordered concrete I was 1 3/4 yard the driveway I did at my home was 4 3/4 yard. And I ordered 3 yard. Of concrete
Ya it happens. Lol
ya we all order it tight hate to send any back
Yup win some loose some LOL
Question. How is the heat working out.
They are gonna continue this build in thge spring.
@@bondobuilt386 let us know thanks
@@johnkulpowich5260 I will 👍😊
Just found your channel I know this video's been out a while but I wanted to ask you I know you have the radiant tubing in there but aren't you usually supposed to pull your wire up into the concrete how's that work with the tubing
Hi there. We don’t pull up if there is tubing unless the slab is over 6” deep. You will damage the tubing and have to jack hammer the floor out. We add fiber mesh in the concrete for extra reinforcement. The wire just holds the tubing where it needs to go. If there is no tubing in the slab we pull the wire up with hooks that we made.
Thanks 😊
What plasticizer did you use.
Nice work . How do you bid as an example concrete work ? Do you crew your projects ,ie so many men for so many days /hours , plus materials and miscellaneous.
Also do you charge yourself for using equipment you own that you would otherwise need to rent . Thanks
Paul Yes time and materials I try to figure out ahead of time and I charge for how many hours I figure for my equipment also. Evdery job has a different challange so that can change the cost as well.
Give it a drink dude, use accelerator, heat, close door, when u pour in winter this is what u get..nice job.
I would have done all that but it was mid October. Just one of those unseasonably cold and damp day. The other 2 sections went off perfect but this last piece just wouldn’t dry. Really caught me off guard but that’s how we learn. 👍👍
Or have them add an extra sack of Portland to the mix too.
@@elischultes6587 Yes that helps too 👍
I’ve rolled up a lot of concrete blankets. Got 23 on my pickup once. Maybe I remember more. They were the yellow and green ones. Not the space blanket filled ones.
@@elischultes6587 I have never used them as we stop pouring in November before its gets real cold.
What part of New York do you live in I need a price for my driveway it's 90 x25 I live in the city of Lockport
It looks like it needs a squeeze,after the first machine ,just to get the slop of.
HAY where is that wheelbarrow of mud from the last job?????
Richard yes I could of used that bud. Lol 👍😊
Drivers don't know much except driving truck and unloading. The plant makes the mix. I've pour tilt ups in the rain and covered, and power float in morning, not fun was on schedule.
Oh that must of been a pain. Some drivers are good though. Just some. Lol 😂
Jay not sure what your talking about when u say tilt panels. This was a floor so you make no sense. We have to pour when we can get the trucks. This season was hard to get trucks and an inside pour is fine in the rain. It dries nice and slow. Nice thing about UA-cam is if you don’t like a channel you can just not watch it anymore.
Thanks
@@bondobuilt386 Tilt Up panels are walls pored on top of slab and then tilted/ lifted up to make big industrial buildings. I use to pour a minimum 100 yards a day. For a small pour like yours in video we always used a small pump, pulled from back of a pickup truck, and set up screed pins, if you know what those are. Not saying you did anything wrong, just saying when your pour a lot of concrete all the time , you look for the cheapest fastest ways. I also said on one huge job on a tight schedule we had to pour panels in the rain.. we had 500,000 S.F. of slab and than tilt up panels. Back around 1984 in a very wet winter.
@@robertmccully2792 jay Roma was acting like I was pouring tilt up panels in the rain? Not sure why he said that. Lol
We use pumps all the time buddy. Just not in the budget for this job. 👍👍
@Jay Roma thanks bro. UA-cam loves all the interaction. Positive or negative comments help my channel so that’s awesome 👍👍
What slump do you have to have to pump it ?
You can pump a 5-1/2 “ to 6” slump pretty good. 👍
The Big biscuit
Frier 😊👍👍
Ron - how do you decide where the relief cuts go in a radiant floor?
We just cut it as we would a regular floor but not as deep as to not hit the tubing. 👍
Hi bud did you add more concrete at the end or just spread out the existing concrete to fill the gap? Great videos BTW I am learning a lot !
Hi Lisa. We added some at the end to fill in the part we were short. Glad my videos are helpful to ya. 😊
We typically add some calcium into our concrete to help the curing process
Yes I wish I did that day. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 if your also going to power trowel the slab mid range water reducer works really well, you can pour it at a 6” slump and after 30 minutes of it being on the ground it stiffens up to about a 4” slump. That stuff can be scary if you get a few trucks backed up with it in there but it works amazing in Utah winters for basements and garages.
@@chazgeisler6213 I actually had pollyheed water reducer in this mix design buddy.
@@bondobuilt386 maybe it’s the calcium in conjunction with the midrange that make for the concrete setting up so quick. If you can get the concrete out quick it works out well so you can Finnish the concrete to the polished Finnish in the winter quicker.
@@bondobuilt386 how cold do your winters get? We still pour concrete in freezing temps here in Utah.
How deep do you pour over tubing?
hi John. About 4 or 5 inches are on top of the tubing.
Looks great. How do you go about cutting the expansion joints in the concrete when it has the radian heat piping? Is there a minimum depth above the piping needed?
Thanks 😊 We don’t pull the tubing up and we cut the slab about 1” max.
was the wire in there just to hold the tube down?
Yes it makes laying the grid of tubing easier with the 6” wire mesh.
You got your rebar way at the bottom ,that ain’t really good .
Didn’t you add steel fibre to your concrete ?
There is no rebar in this slab bud. its wire mesh. Its there just to hold the tubing down There is fiber in this mix for xtra reinforcement.
Go get the heater and fans 50 bucks worth of fuel can save alot of time. Good job us concreters all suffer from the same mental defect .we love abuse.
Ya Jason. I agree. Lol 😂
Does the concrete company charge for the time the truck spends at the site? Time is money and I can see where the concrete company needs to keep their trucks moving. A slow contractor can keep the truck on site for a longer period of time.
Some do, some don't. Our local RM company used to give a discount for fast turn around and penalty for slow dumping. Now no discount.
Yes they can charge extra for slow contractors.