I just did my 1600 sqft garage, I used your method of working it back from the cut length. It worked great I have 6 loops all exactly 300ft. Thanks Bondo!
Yes that’s awesome. I kinda learned that by trial and error I’m glad it helps you guys and gals on here. Great to have the tubing exactly the same length. So easy to hook up and flows evenly. 👍👍👍
2/24/23; just saw part 2 of that large cc floor w/ red radiant heating floor tubes for 'race car' shop. Am a recent subscriber as much enjoy watching & learning more about foundation construction. Also enjoy light humor with 'nicknames'..'big biscuit' for your full size son. This man is a machine! He does not stop! Guess he was trained very well, aye?⚙️🤷👍👏💪😊
With that crew u could have dumped the whole floor these guys did a good job they seem yo be able enough. We did a million feet last year on one job. Thats big. Not one pour. Lol from someone who does this everyday for 30 plus years I say you guys did great.
I've made some really small shoots out of metal roofing but that long shoot made out of plastic pipe is a great idea! That's definitely a nice trick, thanks for sharing. Many do not share those tricks of the trade
@@bondobuilt386 Those lessons stick best, in my experience. Some old timers have kept me from shooting myself in the foot, but when I wing a toe or two I learn really quickly!
Ya Bill thats a good way to put it. LOL I have winged quite a few toes because I’m always doing and trying different things. I love to learn and try out new tricks. 😊
Did concrete for several years. These guys are doing a good job. They know what they're doing. I worked for a concrete company just as the power screeds were coming out. The trellis type screeds were coming out. the ones this crew is using came out when I already left the concrete part of the building trades. Works good.
You got a great crew I used to do concrete for cellar floors and footers also put some radiant heating in the '80s and makes a nice even heat. The folks that hire you are lucky to get a crew that knows what's going on. I worked on a nuclear power plant for 9 years so lots and lots of concrete work. Thanks for the videos
New sub. I swung a hammer for 20 yrs. & know nothing about concrete, so this is an education. Plus, I'd rather watch work at my advanced age than do it, lol. I may not know concrete, but I know craftsmanship. You show it!
Bill thanks for subscribing. Thats a nice compliment coming from a seasoned construction guy. These comments are alot of the reason I keep doing this channel. Much appreciated buddy 😊
I have to say that I agree 100%. I do a lot of my own projects and learn by mistakes. I am an engineer and work through by figuring out things as I go on my own home projects. I don’t always know the best way before hand, but I can see immediately when someone is doing something that has skill, knowledge and experience behind it.
@@toddgibbs1321 thanks bud I really appreciate the comments from you guys on here. I enjoy the heck out of doing this work and it’s awesome being able to share it with all of you guys and maybe help someone along the way. 😊
Well exicuted pour, gentlemen ! Culvert chute saved a bunch of money, and conduit feeding back to the manifold sure helped facilitate the multisection pour.
my contractor wanted 4-5$ a sf to run some pex tubing, I couldn’t understand why it was so expensive, or what was involved in the process, after watching these guys work, I immediately fired him, even if I do it wrong a few times it will still be cheaper, keep up the good work guys
I was in ready mix for 25 years and sir, I can tell you know what you’re doing! Wire is on the bottom and there’s nothing you can do about that, with the piping. We only done one floor like this, that I can remember. I’m in northeast Arkansas. Good video! Randy Chandler
Randy thank you sir. 😊 Nobody on here is gonna get me to pull that tubing up into the slab. LOL I’ll be the one ripping it out to fix the damaged heat lines. Wew always pull it up where there is no tubing but where there is tubing we dont and use fiber mesh for reinforcement. I have done 100’s of these heated slabs and they dont move at 5-1/2 “ thick there solid and heat up real nice. 👍😊
Brad we use the wire as a grid to lay out the tubing on 1 foot centers. Im not sure how you could get that tubing layed out under that wire mesh. You could staple it to the foam but we do it this way because I can lay the tubing outg real fast and save the customer money on that part and then we use fibers to reinfiorce the concrete and 100’s of floors done this way by me and no issues ever. 👍
It really helps when you have a group of guys that have worked together for a long time. Especially when there’s two guys on the rod off , they gotta dance well together or they’ll both be wore out by fighting each other not reaching back for another pull in unison. Right??? A sleepy chute guy(when you’re not spoiled by a front discharge) can kick everyone’s ass!
Where I live it is necessary to set up a gauge and pressureize the pex so that the building inspector can see inspector checks day before the pour and the day of the pour and watches to make sure reinforcing wire is pulled up.
Peter we used fibers for reinforcement in this slab as pulling up the tubing and wire puts the tubing at great risk of damage thats probably why they pressurize it. Also when cutting the relief joints I would be real nervous that a tube got pulled up to high and would get cut. Thats why we do the fibers and dont pull up the mesh unless the slab is like 7" thick at least then ill pull it up a little. . We always pull it up when there is no tubing in there with hooks we made. Ive poured hundreds of these and never seen one move or separate and we have never damaged a radiant tube. In our area if you use fibers you dont even need the wire but I usually do both. 👍😊
@@richardgilbert4373 We dont pull it up when we have tubing in there we use fiber mesh for the reinforcement. The tubing will be damaged unless the floor is 7” or more then we would lift it a little.
You guys do nice work. I would likely staple the pex tubing to the insulation on a chalk grid and put the wire mesh on top and hook it up into the centre of the slab when pouring. I am just concerned the wire mesh is simply a grid for the tubing rather than providing reinforcement for the slab. Thanks for your videos, I have subscribed.
Was on a crew that slip-formed grain silos. Crew boss said to keep the rebar toward the bottom 1/4 of floor slab. He said take a piece of cheese, lay it flat and bend it up. It will always break at the underside first. That's where he wanted the rebar.
Love the videos! Getting ready to build my own 50 x80 shop with living quarters & I've learned a ton from your vids...doing radiant heat in the slab so I was really interested to see how Bono does it😉
One thing I'm worried about for the slab I'll need. Lots of the concrete guys around here seem to like it wet and soupy to make it easy to spread. Which of course makes a floor about as strong as chalk.
As a plumber who does a lot of ground work first thing I noticed was the extra chute the concrete guys used to keep it right where they wanted it to go.
I love radiant floor heating especially when you can control each room individually in a house. Someday I'll have my dream garage with this type of heating. Also with proper planning I will place my lifts cement posts ahead of the actual pour so I won't damage the heating lines.
Yes this is an awesome way to heat any structure. I have it in my shop and if you have to get down on the floor in winter you will just smile. LOL I encourage you to spot out the lift posts as well. 👍
Floor looks good and you guys work really well together. The only things I would mention are: You can get just as strong concrete at a 7" as 4" slump by using high range plasticizers (and way easier to work with). Secondly: Why do you not mention how you plan on curing the concrete? You do a great job giving details on what and why you are doing something. Why not talking about correct curing procedures?
The foam board is 2” polystyrene 4x8 closed cell board foam. We put 6 mill plastic under the foam as a vapor barrier then the wire and the tubing. This is a three part pour so there’s a lot of info on laying things out after we pour each section. Enjoy 😊
@@bondobuilt386 haha. I listened to my ladder rack whistle down the highway for years before filling the rung ends with foam. Kept saying "i really need to fill those rungs soon" haha. Love the videos BTW. Well done
Why wouldn't you staple pex tubing to foam at no longer than 300ft loops and put 1/2" rod over top, with plastic bridging. Especially on a weight bearing slab? Just a thought.
These slabs are all done this way in our area. Ive done hundreds and they just dont' have any issues. We run longer loops so that the header are smaller and we keep the tubing exactly the same length so it flows even with no balancing valves needed. They just work exceptionally well and I see no reason to change how we do it. As I stated we have hundreds of these slabs that are heating real well so thats real world experience. thanks for the questions.
The wire is used to hold the tubing in this floor not for reinforcement. The tubing needs to stay on bottom in this application. There is fiber reinforcement in this slab.
Hey Ron. Great work I appreciate the creativity. Have a piece of land I am developing in new Paltz. Going to do a pole barn 40 by 70. The section we chose to build was not level. So had 20 tri axles of dense fill hauled in. It’s packed level and sitting for 10 months....the beginning of the pandemic. Looking to see we’re you are out of and also if you can recommend a builder? Thanks, great video. Anthony.
Thanks Andy. 😊 I'm in Upstate New York. 45 minutes North of Syracuse. Sorry I don't know any builders in your area. That will do that fill good to sit 10 months and settle. 👍👍
Nice job. Can I point out the ties that you guys use on the pipe are not optimal. When pipe heats and cools expand and contracts, moving a little. Over time your ties will cut the infloor tubing. Change that to plastic zip ties and you should be good.
Thanks buddy. We used some zip ties on this floor and some wire ties. I ran out of zip ties. I started using the wire ties because you dont have to cut them off like the zip ties. We tie them fairly loose also. I have some systems tied in floor joist aplications like that and no damage in 7 years. That pex is tough stuff. 👍
Really cool what you did with the pex to get it back into middle of building only question I have on it is doing this way is we’re you scared not being able to get a pressure reading on line to make sure no holes in the tubing ?
I'm getting ready start my floor in my 48x80 post frame. I'm wanting to do it in 3 pours as money is available. I was thinking about doing the infloor heat the way you did it with the electrical conduit. My question is, is the a way to make a seamless or somewhat seamless joint between pours.
Was it really more cost effective to not have the concrete pumped? Seems like it takes more labor to make multiple pours plus extra materials like the conduit. What is the effect of the hearing against the wall by having the tub run through the conduit?
Tom I ran extra lines near the wall that fed the other zones so there would be xtra heat in that area. Making multiple pours was a better fit for this project because I was able to use the guys to lay the insulation board and the tubing in the next section while we waited on the slab to dry due to it being in the fall. I got the pipe for $200 so I can use it again. We use pumps all the time but for this project it saved me money and I can’t always get enough guys to together to pour something that big. Most the guys that help me and myself have full time jobs and do concrete on our days off. 👍👍 Thanks for the questions
Are the heating grids supposed to be tge same length? Would there be an inefficiency in the grid going from concrete surround to being insulated with a conduit ? Thanks
Yes the system will flow better if the grids are close to the same length. the line in the conduit was an extra run in that area just to get to the other slab so not required to heat the slab.
@@bondobuilt386 great work , you know how good your crew is by how easy you make it look , great job & thanks for the reply , happy pouring & best wishes.
I been doing concrete for like 30 years. I have many contacts of good guys I can call when I need help. I met some great guys through the years. All these guys know what I expect when it comes to quality. 😀
Gonna pour 6" slab to support tractor trailers, possibly loaded, 80k to 100k. Need rebar and chairs with the floor tubing. Did you build anything like this with video?
I want radiant tubing in my shop. Some people use those plastic staples and staple the tubing the the foam. The wire mesh goes on top of that so it's up in the slab instead of on the bottom. What are the pros and cons of both methods?
whats the use of that rebar if its just sitting on the foam itself and wont even strengthen anything? you could actually add the rebar on top of the pipes, but then it would need to have bigger holes, so that u dont step on it the whole time, braking the pipes with that...
It's not rebar it is wire mesh and it holds the tubing it's not there for strength we use fibers for added strength in this mix. You are correct that rebar on top would damage the tubing.
I didn't realize until now that Big Biscuit was your son. Now it explains why he snapped back at you in the other video where you were telling him how to grease the loader backhoe. When the old man tries to tell you how to do something most of us are thinking "fuck off, I know what I am doing" LOL.
I do not. We do not want the tubing up near the surface because it will get damaged when we cut it. When no tubing we lift it up with hooks because it is unsafe to walk on the mesh when chaired up IMO.
Sorry if I missed it, but did you have to put in a frost wall around the perimeter of the building, or is the heated slab just floating inside the barn walls? I live in Wisconsin and have been led to believe i can't (shouldn't?) do this unless there's a proper foundation all around. That or it'll heave/crack and the embedded pex doesn't like that.. Thoughts?
PJ no frost wall here buddy. However you do want good drainage around these buldings to get bulk water away and there won't be any heaving going on. There is 2” of foam under and a small strip of 2” around the perimeter of the slab. We get 48” frost depth here in centrasl New York. I never have seen any of these slabs heave. Especially if there heated they cant. 😊
@@bondobuilt386 wow that’s really impressive! You just answered a very important question building my own shop hahaha. Thank you so much. Liked and subscribed!
Can you talk a little about zones for heating a home? I see the sense in having all the pex the same length, but what if you want to turn the heat down in guest bedrooms and up in a bathroom or something like that? Thank you. I enjoy your videos.
Hi. Thanks. Zones are great in certain situations. Not so great in a concreter slab unless that area is insulated from the rest of the slab. Just like this slab. The first pour is a future apartment so we put 2" of foam between the first pour and the second. If you are zoning off a house just keep all the loops in that particular zone around the same length. if it is a small bath or bedroom you will only have one loop in there but if its a big family room with 2 loops just keep those 2 the same length. When each separate zone is hooked up it will be controlled by its own zone valve or separate pump. So not each zone needs to be the same length just each loop that is within a zone. Hope that makes sense. 😊
Also, if you need to make fine adjustments to different rooms in the same zone but that are in different loops (circuits), you can adjust the circuit valve a touch. It's best to still keep the lines the same length (within 5% is ideal), but you can make one room a bit different from another by partially closing a valve so it restricts flow a bit there if it seems to get warmer than you prefer while maintaining the other one. Zones are typically overdone in a house as the house will find an equilibrium and mostly even out. Generally speaking beds and baths can be one a zone and large living areas on another. I generally prefer doing large zones and keeping it simple as it will equalize anyhow (and having 2-3 thermostats is still 2-3 times as much control as people usually have anyways...) The 8500 sqft house I am doing now has 7 zones. Basement (7 circuits serving 3300 sqft), Mainfloor Master Bed/Bath, Laundry (2 circuit serving ~900 sqft), Mainfloor Main Living Room, Kitchen, Dining (3 circuit serving ~1200 sqft), Mainfloor Bedrooms, Bath, Office (2 circuit serving ~900 sq ft), Upstairs (3 circuit serving about 1200 sqft), Garage (3 circuit serving about 1100 sqft), and Driveway (3 circuit serving about 1100 sqft). They wanted more control on the main level so they did 3 whereas the basement did one zone for the whole space. I have a feeling they will be set similarly so will find the extra zoning as unnecessary, but it does help with separating long homeruns by having closer distribution manifolds that just have a single supply and return to each space, so it is helpful that way also. Hope that makes sense.
Why does no one lift the rebar/wire mesh in front of them with a rake?, so the concrete gets to the bottom of the rebar/mesh. That's the purpose of the rebar or mesh wire, is for strengthening the concrete, correct?. Good job you did anyway.
i agree, though they my be using the mesh just to locate the pex tubing. still it would be better if the pex was higher in the slab, not to high though. :D just my humble opinion.
Thanks but we dont lift it with the tubing in there because the tubing will get damaged. We used fibers for reinforcement in this one wire was just to hold the tubing.
That's an awesome video. Great job. I'm building a 30x40 garage with stud on pad not pole barn. The guys told me the concrete should be 5" with reinforced edges. How would you put in the pex pipe if you are running a bunch of rebar on top of 2" foam board?
Now you are not put in no stationary carlists in this garage please comment back after you have the heating elements in it how do you find them with the cement Please comment back thank you very much
Hi Martin. If the customer knows where they want them we will avoid that areas with the tubing. If they dont know they will have to locate them after the heat is on with thermal image camera.
A QUICK QUESTION PLEASE MR. BONDO: * For this 40 x 90 pole barn, what was the cost for concrete and the radiant heating system? * My wife and I are working on our retirement home which is approx the same size and we want radiant heat also. * I fully realize that there a million different variables but, any "ballpark" figures on cost would be most appreciated. PS: we'll be building in NW Montana and I would hire you if you lived closer!!! : ) Mr Bowen Retired, Veteran
Wow nice videos, thanks for sharing! I was wondering, I didn’t see you pulling the wire mesh up during the pour, don’t you have to get the mesh and tubes up off of the foam and into the concrete?
Does the conduit hurt heating performance of the tubing? I would think that it would keep it from heating up that part of the floor as well as it should.
Good Question. We already had tubing in that part for the heat. The tubing in the conduit just needed to get to the last slab so it was extra in that area. If that makes sense? I think it will still give off some heat to the slab but not as much as if it were in contact with the concrete.
@@bondobuilt386 putting the condit in to the manifold was a good idea, maybe not as important in a large area like that. More so in a house with small rooms as you don't want too much in the area where all the circuits run back to the manifold that area would get too hot and possibly crack with uneven heat in floor
Brad the wire holds the tubing at the patern of 1 foot per square foot of space that is it. It also holds the tubing down so it does not float up near the surface and become damaged and develop leaks. We then add fibers in the concrete for reinforcement. If the slab was 7” thick or more we will pull the wire about 2” but not for this one that was 5-1/2” thick.
Great video series and I have learned a great deal watching/listening. Have you ever had to pour concrete when the barn had sliding doors? How did you address the perimeter foam insulation at the door openings? Thanks
Thanks Vernon. I have never done a heated floor where they wanted sliders instead of roll up doors. There is only foam under the slab at over head doors. Unless you pour an apron then you coils sandwich foam by the door between the slab and apron. cut the foam at a 45 angle at the top so the concrete is thicker at top. Probably with sliders your apron would be a little lower then slab to create a lip to seal the Bottom of the door. 😊
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the super fast input. I was not aware that there was no foam on the edge of overhead doors. The barn I have was an existing structure on the property and roll up doors would have been my preference. I going to have a concrete pad poured outside the barn doors as well. The lip seal you mentioned may be enough. Thanks again and keep up the super good work you.
@@vernondavis7199 It should be fine buddy. You just loose a little heat at the doors in these buildings. just foam under it but not at the edge where the doors are. Unless you do the apron like I said. You will love the heat. 👍😊
i will not pull tubing up so it gets damaged and develops a leak unless the floor is 7' thick at least. We use the wire to hold the tubing on the 1 foot grid and then we use fiber reinforced concrete.
I love your video!! I have a question though. I currently have hydronic floors in my garage and I want to install a 2 post car lift. How thick is the concrete typically by code standard and would I need to be concerned about drilling into the concrete for anchoring the lift columns?
What happen if there is a leak in the PEX? I’ve seen some videos where they pressurize the system in case you get a puncture. Has PEX proven to be pretty durable and fault free? Love you videos. Thanks for sharing.
Where are from? I'm building a 40x100 this coming summer... ALOT of the guys in Southern Minnesota like it really wet in return all the slabs I've seen Crack!
I am in upstate New York. It will crack more if poured real wet unless water reducer plasticizer is used. 3 things guaranteed with concrete. 1. it will not catch on fire. 2. Nobody is gonna steal it 3 It is gonna crack. LOL
I pump concrete for a living Worked in construction most of my life I really like your video keep it up
Building a 48x48 pole building with this type of floor soon, you and R&R Builders are great channels to watch on this stuff.
I just did my 1600 sqft garage, I used your method of working it back from the cut length. It worked great I have 6 loops all exactly 300ft. Thanks Bondo!
Yes that’s awesome. I kinda learned that by trial and error I’m glad it helps you guys and gals on here. Great to have the tubing exactly the same length. So easy to hook up and flows evenly. 👍👍👍
2/24/23; just saw part 2 of that large cc floor w/ red radiant heating floor tubes for 'race car' shop. Am a recent subscriber as much enjoy watching & learning more about foundation construction. Also enjoy light humor with 'nicknames'..'big biscuit' for your full size son. This man is a machine! He does not stop! Guess he was trained very well, aye?⚙️🤷👍👏💪😊
I'm always impressed with good concrete guys. You've got a well-oiled machine of a crew there.
With that crew u could have dumped the whole floor these guys did a good job they seem yo be able enough. We did a million feet last year on one job. Thats big. Not one pour. Lol from someone who does this everyday for 30 plus years I say you guys did great.
Well thank you sir I appreciate that comment from a veteran concrete guy like you.
You got a good group of guys to work with! Great job!
Ken thanks buddy. Appreciate that 👍😊
I've made some really small shoots out of metal roofing but that long shoot made out of plastic pipe is a great idea! That's definitely a nice trick, thanks for sharing. Many do not share those tricks of the trade
Thanks I don’t mind helping people out. I learned a lot the hard way. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 Those lessons stick best, in my experience. Some old timers have kept me from shooting myself in the foot, but when I wing a toe or two I learn really quickly!
Ya Bill thats a good way to put it. LOL I have winged quite a few toes because I’m always doing and trying different things. I love to learn and try out new tricks. 😊
Did concrete for several years. These guys are doing a good job. They know what they're doing. I worked for a concrete company just as the power screeds were coming out. The trellis type screeds were coming out. the ones this crew is using came out when I already left the concrete part of the building trades. Works good.
Thanks I appreciate the comments and compliments buddy. 👍😊
fantastic teamwork gentlemen
You got a great crew I used to do concrete for cellar floors and footers also put some radiant heating in the '80s and makes a nice even heat. The folks that hire you are lucky to get a crew that knows what's going on.
I worked on a nuclear power plant for 9 years so lots and lots of concrete work. Thanks for the videos
Love it. Great job. The conduit was a great idea.
Johnny thanks man. That conduit did work pretty sweet. Lol
New sub. I swung a hammer for 20 yrs. & know nothing about concrete, so this is an education. Plus, I'd rather watch work at my advanced age than do it, lol. I may not know concrete, but I know craftsmanship. You show it!
Bill thanks for subscribing. Thats a nice compliment coming from a seasoned construction guy. These comments are alot of the reason I keep doing this channel. Much appreciated buddy 😊
I have to say that I agree 100%. I do a lot of my own projects and learn by mistakes. I am an engineer and work through by figuring out things as I go on my own home projects. I don’t always know the best way before hand, but I can see immediately when someone is doing something that has skill, knowledge and experience behind it.
@@toddgibbs1321 thanks bud I really appreciate the comments from you guys on here. I enjoy the heck out of doing this work and it’s awesome being able to share it with all of you guys and maybe help someone along the way. 😊
Well exicuted pour, gentlemen ! Culvert chute saved a bunch of money, and conduit feeding back to the manifold sure helped facilitate the multisection pour.
Thanks Kenny. It sure has been a popular video too 😊👍👍
Love your vids and info. Just bought 5 acres and need to do a pad or footing for a shop. Im learning a lot from you
Good presentation and craftmanship
Thanks Mike 😊😊
my contractor wanted 4-5$ a sf to run some pex tubing, I couldn’t understand why it was so expensive, or what was involved in the process, after watching these guys work, I immediately fired him, even if I do it wrong a few times it will still be cheaper, keep up the good work guys
i like your problem solving! There's always someone saying it won't work
Super explanation of a concrete floor pour
Thanks Matt. Glad you liked it buddy. 👍
I was in ready mix for 25 years and sir, I can tell you know what you’re doing! Wire is on the bottom and there’s nothing you can do about that, with the piping. We only done one floor like this, that I can remember. I’m in northeast Arkansas.
Good video!
Randy Chandler
Randy thank you sir. 😊 Nobody on here is gonna get me to pull that tubing up into the slab. LOL I’ll be the one ripping it out to fix the damaged heat lines. Wew always pull it up where there is no tubing but where there is tubing we dont and use fiber mesh for reinforcement. I have done 100’s of these heated slabs and they dont move at 5-1/2 “ thick there solid and heat up real nice. 👍😊
It’s better to put tubing down first then wire overtop of tubing. That way wire is in concrete and holding down tubing.
Brad we use the wire as a grid to lay out the tubing on 1 foot centers. Im not sure how you could get that tubing layed out under that wire mesh. You could staple it to the foam but we do it this way because I can lay the tubing outg real fast and save the customer money on that part and then we use fibers to reinfiorce the concrete and 100’s of floors done this way by me and no issues ever. 👍
You can tell a squad that know what they are doing and get on with each other, when there isn't too much shouting but a bit of banter going on.
David thanks buddy. Ya I dont have to yell at my guys. Most of us do this on our days off from our regular jobs so I try and make it fun. 👍👍
It really helps when you have a group of guys that have worked together for a long time. Especially when there’s two guys on the rod off , they gotta dance well together or they’ll both be wore out by fighting each other not reaching back for another pull in unison. Right??? A sleepy chute guy(when you’re not spoiled by a front discharge) can kick everyone’s ass!
great video , just a little thing could you show you connecting the 2 lines together to extend the line back to manifold , good info for the diy er
I’m a fan of counterflow for layout when multiple zones are installed.
Leland what do you mean by counterflow? Thanks
Where I live it is necessary to set up a gauge and pressureize the pex so that the building inspector can see inspector checks day before the pour and the day of the pour and watches to make sure reinforcing wire is pulled up.
Peter we used fibers for reinforcement in this slab as pulling up the tubing and wire puts the tubing at great risk of damage thats probably why they pressurize it. Also when cutting the relief joints I would be real nervous that a tube got pulled up to high and would get cut. Thats why we do the fibers and dont pull up the mesh unless the slab is like 7" thick at least then ill pull it up a little. . We always pull it up when there is no tubing in there with hooks we made. Ive poured hundreds of these and never seen one move or separate and we have never damaged a radiant tube. In our area if you use fibers you dont even need the wire but I usually do both. 👍😊
I didn't see any wire lifted.
@@richardgilbert4373 We dont pull it up when we have tubing in there we use fiber mesh for the reinforcement. The tubing will be damaged unless the floor is 7” or more then we would lift it a little.
You guys do nice work. I would likely staple the pex tubing to the insulation on a chalk grid and put the wire mesh on top and hook it up into the centre of the slab when pouring. I am just concerned the wire mesh is simply a grid for the tubing rather than providing reinforcement for the slab. Thanks for your videos, I have subscribed.
Was on a crew that slip-formed grain silos. Crew boss said to keep the rebar toward the bottom 1/4 of floor slab. He said take a piece of cheese, lay it flat and bend it up. It will always break at the underside first. That's where he wanted the rebar.
4
@@mgyer2218
Very nice pour..great job.
Thanks Mike. 👍😊
Smart pour; it would be nice to see how the boiler marries up to an outdoor horizontal underground heat pump as well.
Thanks Edward. I think they are going to heat it with natural gas boiler or a big water heater. or 2 water heaters. 😊👍
Nice job 👍👍👍 ✌️😎
thanks Gary. 👍👍
@Clarke Caldwell Thanks Clark. 👍😊
Realy good job👍
Thanks 😁
Nice work
Thanks Roy
You guys do great work.
thank you. 👍👍
You guys would make a great curling team. 👍
Thanks 👍😊
Top gedaan ✅👌👍🤩🤩groetjes uit Holland 👋🏼👋🏼
Thank you
Good work gentlemen
Thanks 😊
Good job. If you keep the drain pipe chute, consider filling the cavities with spray foam to reduce your clean up time.
Yup exactly. We plan on doing that for sure. 👍👍😊
Thanks buddy
Hard work for strong young men.
Thanks it’s not bad with a good crew. 👍
I’ve delivered to a curb and gutter crew where grandpa stuck around setting forms for hand curb until he was in his 90’s!!!
Charlie that’s completely awesome. I could only hope I can live that long let alone still do concrete. 👍😊
Good Job!
Thanks 😊 👍
Love the videos!
Getting ready to build my own 50 x80 shop with living quarters & I've learned a ton from your vids...doing radiant heat in the slab so I was really interested to see how Bono does it😉
Awesome Keith. I’m glad I can help you buddy. Any questions hit me up 🤙
I will..& thank you!
@@keithbanther3385 sounds good bud
Nice building!
Nice job ,to simple ....
Thanks John 😊👍
Nice job. Good comments.
Thanks Robert. 👍👍
Looks amazing!
Thanks Michael 👍😊
One thing I'm worried about for the slab I'll need. Lots of the concrete guys around here seem to like it wet and soupy to make it easy to spread. Which of course makes a floor about as strong as chalk.
If they want to pour it wet use high range water reducer in the concrete. It will flow like its wet but be real strong and dry quicker.
As a plumber who does a lot of ground work first thing I noticed was the extra chute the concrete guys used to keep it right where they wanted it to go.
I love radiant floor heating especially when you can control each room individually in a house. Someday I'll have my dream garage with this type of heating. Also with proper planning I will place my lifts cement posts ahead of the actual pour so I won't damage the heating lines.
Yes this is an awesome way to heat any structure. I have it in my shop and if you have to get down on the floor in winter you will just smile. LOL I encourage you to spot out the lift posts as well. 👍
Wish you guys were in Oregon I would hire you to do my slab and walkways
Thanks Eric. Appreciate that buddy. 😊
Awesome videos man
Thank you I’m glad you liked them. 👍😊
Floor looks good and you guys work really well together. The only things I would mention are: You can get just as strong concrete at a 7" as 4" slump by using high range plasticizers (and way easier to work with). Secondly: Why do you not mention how you plan on curing the concrete? You do a great job giving details on what and why you are doing something. Why not talking about correct curing procedures?
Beautiful
Thanks 😊
I'd like to know more about the preparation including the 2 inch foam you mentioned under the concrete
ua-cam.com/video/JcBpTpNxneI/v-deo.html here is a video of us peeping this job.
The foam board is 2” polystyrene 4x8 closed cell board foam. We put 6 mill plastic under the foam as a vapor barrier then the wire and the tubing. This is a three part pour so there’s a lot of info on laying things out after we pour each section.
Enjoy 😊
That wire mesh should be up in the pour, does little reinforcement laying on the bottom
Fill the openings on the culvert tube with spray foam. Keeps the mud out, and is lightweight.
We keep talking about doing that. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 haha. I listened to my ladder rack whistle down the highway for years before filling the rung ends with foam. Kept saying "i really need to fill those rungs soon" haha. Love the videos BTW. Well done
@@danray104 thanks buddy. Yes it's easy to put things off we need to do. Lol I'm guilty haha 😂
Why wouldn't you staple pex tubing to foam at no longer than 300ft loops and put 1/2" rod over top, with plastic bridging. Especially on a weight bearing slab? Just a thought.
These slabs are all done this way in our area. Ive done hundreds and they just dont' have any issues. We run longer loops so that the header are smaller and we keep the tubing exactly the same length so it flows even with no balancing valves needed. They just work exceptionally well and I see no reason to change how we do it. As I stated we have hundreds of these slabs that are heating real well so thats real world experience.
thanks for the questions.
Why is the wire mesh not pulled up or placed on top of the red pex for better reinforcement?
The wire is used to hold the tubing in this floor not for reinforcement. The tubing needs to stay on bottom in this application. There is fiber reinforcement in this slab.
Love jobs done right
Thanks John 😊
Freaking genius
Thanks buddy 👍😊
Hey Ron.
Great work I appreciate the creativity.
Have a piece of land I am developing in new Paltz.
Going to do a pole barn 40 by 70.
The section we chose to build was not level. So had 20 tri axles of dense fill hauled in. It’s packed level and sitting for 10 months....the beginning of the pandemic.
Looking to see we’re you are out of and also if you can recommend a builder?
Thanks,
great video.
Anthony.
Thanks Andy. 😊 I'm in Upstate New York. 45 minutes North of Syracuse. Sorry I don't know any builders in your area. That will do that fill good to sit 10 months and settle. 👍👍
Nice job. Can I point out the ties that you guys use on the pipe are not optimal. When pipe heats and cools expand and contracts, moving a little. Over time your ties will cut the infloor tubing. Change that to plastic zip ties and you should be good.
Thanks buddy. We used some zip ties on this floor and some wire ties. I ran out of zip ties. I started using the wire ties because you dont have to cut them off like the zip ties. We tie them fairly loose also. I have some systems tied in floor joist aplications like that and no damage in 7 years.
That pex is tough stuff. 👍
Better yet buy a stapler. Staple tube down and place the wire over the top of the tube. We place 1000 feet per hour on install.
Really cool what you did with the pex to get it back into middle of building only question I have on it is doing this way is we’re you scared not being able to get a pressure reading on line to make sure no holes in the tubing ?
Thanks Boyd We seldom pressurize out tubing and have never had a punctured tube.
I'm getting ready start my floor in my 48x80 post frame. I'm wanting to do it in 3 pours as money is available. I was thinking about doing the infloor heat the way you did it with the electrical conduit. My question is, is the a way to make a seamless or somewhat seamless joint between pours.
Was it really more cost effective to not have the concrete pumped? Seems like it takes more labor to make multiple pours plus extra materials like the conduit. What is the effect of the hearing against the wall by having the tub run through the conduit?
Tom I ran extra lines near the wall that fed the other zones so there would be xtra heat in that area. Making multiple pours was a better fit for this project because I was able to use the guys to lay the insulation board and the tubing in the next section while we waited on the slab to dry due to it being in the fall. I got the pipe for $200 so I can use it again. We use pumps all the time but for this project it saved me money and I can’t always get enough guys to together to pour something that big. Most the guys that help me and myself have full time jobs and do concrete on our days off. 👍👍
Thanks for the questions
Are the heating grids supposed to be tge same length?
Would there be an inefficiency in the grid going from concrete surround to being insulated with a conduit ?
Thanks
Yes the system will flow better if the grids are close to the same length. the line in the conduit was an extra run in that area just to get to the other slab so not required to heat the slab.
@@bondobuilt386 great work , you know how good your crew is by how easy you make it look , great job & thanks for the reply , happy pouring & best wishes.
If this is going to be a race car shop where the anchor bolts go for the car lifts ? Thanks for the video .i read another post that explains.👍👍
Thanks. Glad you liked the video. 👍😊
Slick trick! I'll remember that in the future
Thanks 😊
How long did it take you to get a good crew and get consistent with quality. Especially on these bigger pours
I been doing concrete for like 30 years. I have many contacts of good guys I can call when I need help. I met some great guys through the years. All these guys know what I expect when it comes to quality. 😀
“Big biscuit “ what a name.
Hot put in radiant heat
Gonna pour 6" slab to support tractor trailers, possibly loaded, 80k to 100k. Need rebar and chairs with the floor tubing. Did you build anything like this with video?
Sorry not on video buddy.
I want radiant tubing in my shop. Some people use those plastic staples and staple the tubing the the foam. The wire mesh goes on top of that so it's up in the slab instead of on the bottom. What are the pros and cons of both methods?
Since the wire mesh is doing nothing other that holding the heating tubes do the mix have fibers in it?
whats the use of that rebar if its just sitting on the foam itself and wont even strengthen anything? you could actually add the rebar on top of the pipes, but then it would need to have bigger holes, so that u dont step on it the whole time, braking the pipes with that...
It's not rebar it is wire mesh and it holds the tubing it's not there for strength we use fibers for added strength in this mix. You are correct that rebar on top would damage the tubing.
I didn't realize until now that Big Biscuit was your son. Now it explains why he snapped back at you in the other video where you were telling him how to grease the loader backhoe. When the old man tries to tell you how to do something most of us are thinking "fuck off, I know what I am doing" LOL.
If you dont mind me asking, Do you put stands under your mesh? Why or why not?
I do not. We do not want the tubing up near the surface because it will get damaged when we cut it. When no tubing we lift it up with hooks because it is unsafe to walk on the mesh when chaired up IMO.
Sorry if I missed it, but did you have to put in a frost wall around the perimeter of the building, or is the heated slab just floating inside the barn walls? I live in Wisconsin and have been led to believe i can't (shouldn't?) do this unless there's a proper foundation all around. That or it'll heave/crack and the embedded pex doesn't like that.. Thoughts?
PJ no frost wall here buddy. However you do want good drainage around these buldings to get bulk water away and there won't be any heaving going on. There is 2” of foam under and a small strip of 2” around the perimeter of the slab. We get 48” frost depth here in centrasl New York. I never have seen any of these slabs heave. Especially if there heated they cant. 😊
if I don't have access to a power screeder, will the bull float work?
Nice work. New subscriber now.
Awesome thanks glad you liked the video. 👍
I’m wondering if the heated floor helps in heating the shop at all? Or does it simply combat or cancel out the cold coming in from underneath?
Joe this will completly heat this shop. 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 wow that’s really impressive! You just answered a very important question building my own shop hahaha. Thank you so much. Liked and subscribed!
Thanks Joe for subscribing I'm glad to help ya. You will love radiant in a shop. 👍😊
@@joeevora1674 do it... you will not regret it... where I live in Canada it gets f'n cold... this will warm you from your feet up..
Can you talk a little about zones for heating a home? I see the sense in having all the pex the same length, but what if you want to turn the heat down in guest bedrooms and up in a bathroom or something like that? Thank you. I enjoy your videos.
Hi. Thanks. Zones are great in certain situations. Not so great in a concreter slab unless that area is insulated from the rest of the slab. Just like this slab. The first pour is a future apartment so we put 2" of foam between the first pour and the second. If you are zoning off a house just keep all the loops in that particular zone around the same length. if it is a small bath or bedroom you will only have one loop in there but if its a big family room with 2 loops just keep those 2 the same length. When each separate zone is hooked up it will be controlled by its own zone valve or separate pump. So not each zone needs to be the same length just each loop that is within a zone. Hope that makes sense. 😊
@@bondobuilt386 That helps. Thanks for replying.
@@lr7512 You bet sir. 😊👍
Also, if you need to make fine adjustments to different rooms in the same zone but that are in different loops (circuits), you can adjust the circuit valve a touch. It's best to still keep the lines the same length (within 5% is ideal), but you can make one room a bit different from another by partially closing a valve so it restricts flow a bit there if it seems to get warmer than you prefer while maintaining the other one. Zones are typically overdone in a house as the house will find an equilibrium and mostly even out. Generally speaking beds and baths can be one a zone and large living areas on another. I generally prefer doing large zones and keeping it simple as it will equalize anyhow (and having 2-3 thermostats is still 2-3 times as much control as people usually have anyways...) The 8500 sqft house I am doing now has 7 zones. Basement (7 circuits serving 3300 sqft), Mainfloor Master Bed/Bath, Laundry (2 circuit serving ~900 sqft), Mainfloor Main Living Room, Kitchen, Dining (3 circuit serving ~1200 sqft), Mainfloor Bedrooms, Bath, Office (2 circuit serving ~900 sq ft), Upstairs (3 circuit serving about 1200 sqft), Garage (3 circuit serving about 1100 sqft), and Driveway (3 circuit serving about 1100 sqft). They wanted more control on the main level so they did 3 whereas the basement did one zone for the whole space. I have a feeling they will be set similarly so will find the extra zoning as unnecessary, but it does help with separating long homeruns by having closer distribution manifolds that just have a single supply and return to each space, so it is helpful that way also. Hope that makes sense.
@@joshualruby Thanks for the info.
Why does no one lift the rebar/wire mesh in front of them with a rake?, so the concrete gets to the bottom of the rebar/mesh. That's the purpose of the rebar or mesh wire, is for strengthening the concrete, correct?. Good job you did anyway.
i agree, though they my be using the mesh just to locate the pex tubing. still it would be better if the pex was higher in the slab, not to high though. :D just my humble opinion.
Thanks but we dont lift it with the tubing in there because the tubing will get damaged. We used fibers for reinforcement in this one wire was just to hold the tubing.
That's an awesome video. Great job. I'm building a 30x40 garage with stud on pad not pole barn. The guys told me the concrete should be 5" with reinforced edges. How would you put in the pex pipe if you are running a bunch of rebar on top of 2" foam board?
What size pex tubing is best for a driveway for snow melt?
I really do not know the answer to that. I have seen 1/2" used but I would check on that with someone else. Sorry.
Now you are not put in no stationary carlists in this garage please comment back after you have the heating elements in it how do you find them with the cement Please comment back thank you very much
Hi Martin. If the customer knows where they want them we will avoid that areas with the tubing. If they dont know they will have to locate them after the heat is on with thermal image camera.
@@bondobuilt386 OK that is very interesting thank you for that information
@@martinneps9387 no problem
@@bondobuilt386 How is this garage coming out
@@martinneps9387 They are gonna continue the build in the spring.
Is there fiber mixed in with your concrete? Is that why you don't need rebar and expansion cuts?
Great job btw... I learned alot
I cut this floor for expansion and yes it has fibers in the concrete. 👍
A QUICK QUESTION PLEASE MR. BONDO:
* For this 40 x 90 pole barn, what was the cost for concrete and the radiant heating system?
* My wife and I are working on our retirement home which is approx the same size and we want radiant heat also.
* I fully realize that there a million different variables but, any "ballpark" figures on cost would be most appreciated.
PS: we'll be building in NW Montana and I would hire you if you lived closer!!! : )
Mr Bowen
Retired, Veteran
Did you do pex around the toilet? You can melt the wax?
Lance you are correct we always stay back from the toilet flange with the tubing. That’s good info to share with the group on here.
Thank you.
You can also use neoprene seals.
@@matthewsokalski1969 yes good point buddy. 👍
Good shit
Wow nice videos, thanks for sharing! I was wondering, I didn’t see you pulling the wire mesh up during the pour, don’t you have to get the mesh and tubes up off of the foam and into the concrete?
We don't pull it in radiant heated slabs. The tubing will get damaged. Instead we use fibers for reinforcement
how far apart do you tie off the pipe at? is there any specific codes? and did you have to have it inspected before the pours?
Does the conduit hurt heating performance of the tubing? I would think that it would keep it from heating up that part of the floor as well as it should.
Good Question. We already had tubing in that part for the heat. The tubing in the conduit just needed to get to the last slab so it was extra in that area. If that makes sense? I think it will still give off some heat to the slab but not as much as if it were in contact with the concrete.
@@bondobuilt386 putting the condit in to the manifold was a good idea, maybe not as important in a large area like that. More so in a house with small rooms as you don't want too much in the area where all the circuits run back to the manifold that area would get too hot and possibly crack with uneven heat in floor
David thanks Yes I agree. Also it helped to snake the tubing in under the slab we just poured as well. 👍👍
Did you have someone pulling up the wire and led? Couldn’t tell
What good is the wire mesh, if it is on the BOTTOM of the concrete?
Brad the wire holds the tubing at the patern of 1 foot per square foot of space that is it. It also holds the tubing down so it does not float up near the surface and become damaged and develop leaks. We then add fibers in the concrete for reinforcement. If the slab was 7” thick or more we will pull the wire about 2” but not for this one that was 5-1/2” thick.
What good is the mesh if it’s sitting on the foam and not in the concrete?
It seems the mesh here was used for securing the conduit in place and not for the concrete.
@@sportil84 Thanks buddy. This question I have answered at least 1000 times lol.
Mike we also put fibers in the concrete because the wire is not for reinforcement.
Thumbs up for the "Big Biscuit"
The biscuit will appreciate that. 👍😊
Word to the Big Biscuit!!
@@adamd7078 👍👍😊
Great video series and I have learned a great deal watching/listening. Have you ever had to pour concrete when the barn had sliding doors? How did you address the perimeter foam insulation at the door openings? Thanks
Thanks Vernon. I have never done a heated floor where they wanted sliders instead of roll up doors. There is only foam under the slab at over head doors. Unless you pour an apron then you coils sandwich foam by the door between the slab and apron. cut the foam at a 45 angle at the top so the concrete is thicker at top. Probably with sliders your apron would be a little lower then slab to create a lip to seal the Bottom of the door. 😊
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the super fast input. I was not aware that there was no foam on the edge of overhead doors. The barn I have was an existing structure on the property and roll up doors would have been my preference. I going to have a concrete pad poured outside the barn doors as well. The lip seal you mentioned may be enough. Thanks again and keep up the super good work you.
@@vernondavis7199 It should be fine buddy. You just loose a little heat at the doors in these buildings. just foam under it but not at the edge where the doors are. Unless you do the apron like I said. You will love the heat. 👍😊
I dont see the wire ever raised off the ground?
i will not pull tubing up so it gets damaged and develops a leak unless the floor is 7' thick at least. We use the wire to hold the tubing on the 1 foot grid and then we use fiber reinforced concrete.
Is the blue foam the right stuff have been told only pink stuff under create
As long as it is Polystyrean in sublation it can be blue or green or pink I have seen.
I love your video!! I have a question though. I currently have hydronic floors in my garage and I want to install a 2 post car lift. How thick is the concrete typically by code standard and would I need to be concerned about drilling into the concrete for anchoring the lift columns?
Thanks. Yes I would turn heat on and try a thermal image camera so you can see where the tubes are. I would have no idea how thick they poured it.
What happen if there is a leak in the PEX? I’ve seen some videos where they pressurize the system in case you get a puncture. Has PEX proven to be pretty durable and fault free? Love you videos. Thanks for sharing.
Do you guys pressurize the the system so you can locate any leaks while pouring the concrete? Great videos and great quality workmanship!
Where are from? I'm building a 40x100 this coming summer... ALOT of the guys in Southern Minnesota like it really wet in return all the slabs I've seen Crack!
I am in upstate New York. It will crack more if poured real wet unless water reducer plasticizer is used. 3 things guaranteed with concrete.
1. it will not catch on fire.
2. Nobody is gonna steal it
3 It is gonna crack.
LOL