I'm quite surprised that your first instinct is to fix the crashed car with parts of the non-working car. I would suggest doing it the other way around, even if you have to wait for the magical few days that it isn't raining. The way the first Zoe looks, I would guess that the frame has been deformed and/or the crumple zone is possibly no longer 100% in tact. If you get that to work, then you've got the alignment of the wheels that might be off, protection in a frontal crash might not be as good as a non-crashed car's, it might fail the MOT test (I'm Dutch, I don't know the exact requirements over there, but here they fail our equivalent APK test very easily). I would really consider trying it the other way around first! And the end result might look more like a new car as well... On top of that, the odds of something else having broken or being weakened without your knowledge on the car that crashed are probably worse compared to the car that just broke down. Do you know what caused the break down of the second car?
thanks for you comment - so yea - if this was in IC car i wouldnt think twice - good running gear into the non damaged car and away we go. issue for me is i dont know why the car is batteryless... and more i think about it more my best guess really has to be a motor/gearbox issue - why else would a 40k miles car be sold basically as scrap? if the battery was dead why would they have gone to the effor of removing it? and on top of this i really dont know what im doing on the run gear side :) :) re: your point on damage - firstly no - the UK MOT does not really dig deep enough to spot alignment issues / bent/ weak stuff etc from prior damage - in fact vehicles classed as CAT N or S can be but back on the road by literally anyone that can make it look straight enough to MOT - even here on YT you see some stuff that looks a bit hmmmm right :) Anyhow. I'll pull the wing and door of both and see whats behind and we can go from there. And again, because in no expert (in the slightest!) on EV's, the fact i have one that is 100% happy run drive charge i'm also leaning on "bird in hand" approach.... nice thing with documenting this here is if i do sell it i can have a buyer watch this first so all eyes open :) ta again for your thoughtfull post.
@@sevenone6 The donor car is a Q210 ( not Q90 as someone has stated...not much of a difference though) , which means it has a Continental motor that is water cooled. The other one is a R240, which has an air cooled motor ( the fan on the top is the motor cooling fan) . Few minor differences in the wiring loom and in the water circuit. Not sure if they are compatible, but pipes are the least expensive parts to buy, so there is no problem there. The Q210 has the capability to charge at 43 kW AC ( If you're lucky enough to find an AC station that powerfull) while the R240 has a max 22kW AC charging, which is atually enough for a daily use . I have an R90 ( little bit more powerfull motor ) with 40 kWh battery and i'm fine with 22kW AC. Sure, it's not a long trip car, but with a full charge i can do 300-330 kms in summer and 220-250 in winter , which covers most of my working week. If you want some guidance through the process, a nice channel to take a look at is @garycevrepairs. He's been on a moltitude of Zoes of all form and shapes and shares most of his work on his channel with advices on what you can or cannot do . Ciao from Italy.
Cool video. Just subbed for more of this. More zoe content please 😀
Wow what a beautiful sound it is making ❤ what even is that? Sounds like a chord!
I'm quite surprised that your first instinct is to fix the crashed car with parts of the non-working car. I would suggest doing it the other way around, even if you have to wait for the magical few days that it isn't raining. The way the first Zoe looks, I would guess that the frame has been deformed and/or the crumple zone is possibly no longer 100% in tact. If you get that to work, then you've got the alignment of the wheels that might be off, protection in a frontal crash might not be as good as a non-crashed car's, it might fail the MOT test (I'm Dutch, I don't know the exact requirements over there, but here they fail our equivalent APK test very easily). I would really consider trying it the other way around first! And the end result might look more like a new car as well...
On top of that, the odds of something else having broken or being weakened without your knowledge on the car that crashed are probably worse compared to the car that just broke down. Do you know what caused the break down of the second car?
thanks for you comment - so yea - if this was in IC car i wouldnt think twice - good running gear into the non damaged car and away we go. issue for me is i dont know why the car is batteryless... and more i think about it more my best guess really has to be a motor/gearbox issue - why else would a 40k miles car be sold basically as scrap? if the battery was dead why would they have gone to the effor of removing it? and on top of this i really dont know what im doing on the run gear side :) :) re: your point on damage - firstly no - the UK MOT does not really dig deep enough to spot alignment issues / bent/ weak stuff etc from prior damage - in fact vehicles classed as CAT N or S can be but back on the road by literally anyone that can make it look straight enough to MOT - even here on YT you see some stuff that looks a bit hmmmm right :) Anyhow. I'll pull the wing and door of both and see whats behind and we can go from there. And again, because in no expert (in the slightest!) on EV's, the fact i have one that is 100% happy run drive charge i'm also leaning on "bird in hand" approach.... nice thing with documenting this here is if i do sell it i can have a buyer watch this first so all eyes open :) ta again for your thoughtfull post.
@sevenone6 thanks for clarifying, and you're welcome. Best of luck, and I'm looking forward to your next video. Cheers!
@@sevenone6 The donor car is a Q210 ( not Q90 as someone has stated...not much of a difference though) , which means it has a Continental motor that is water cooled. The other one is a R240, which has an air cooled motor ( the fan on the top is the motor cooling fan) . Few minor differences in the wiring loom and in the water circuit. Not sure if they are compatible, but pipes are the least expensive parts to buy, so there is no problem there. The Q210 has the capability to charge at 43 kW AC ( If you're lucky enough to find an AC station that powerfull) while the R240 has a max 22kW AC charging, which is atually enough for a daily use . I have an R90 ( little bit more powerfull motor ) with 40 kWh battery and i'm fine with 22kW AC. Sure, it's not a long trip car, but with a full charge i can do 300-330 kms in summer and 220-250 in winter , which covers most of my working week. If you want some guidance through the process, a nice channel to take a look at is @garycevrepairs. He's been on a moltitude of Zoes of all form and shapes and shares most of his work on his channel with advices on what you can or cannot do . Ciao from Italy.
Your doner Zoe has a Q90 motor, the damaged one has the R240 motor
thanks for this!
Hello. Airbags were ok? (Crash sensors?)
yea, airbags all good! bit surprising really!
cars always so much worse until you strip them back then you can see clearly what the problems are abd dont look as bad