I remember as a young guitar player, I was scared to death to setup my own guitars. Especially when I started using trems. I’m a double locking Floyd guy myself. That’s what I learned on and tackled the setups on. I used to constantly bring my guitars to this kindly old gentleman in my town who was an excellent guitar and amp repairman. He told me to stop wasting my money on him setting up my guitars and come in to his shop and he would teach me. I would go in to his shop every day after work for about an hour. I did that for a month because I loved watching and listening to him and the knowledge he had. Anyway, long story short, he taught me everything about setting up my guitar, trem and all! I even learned how to solder in new, upgraded components and pickup swaps. I’ve done my own guitars ever since and you are right, it’s a total bonding thing and I know my guitars inside and out.
A long time ago I was having tuning problems with my first Strat with a trem (my very first Fender Strat was a 1971 hardtail). After much experimenting and tweaking, what I did first was lessen the angle at the string tree by adding another couple of spacers. The friction points at the bridge were rectified by a spring claw adjustment, there is always more pull on the bridge with the wound string side. What I noticed when looking down the body to the bridge was, the wound side of the bridge plate was very slightly higher from the body (we're talking barely 1mm) but it was noticeable. What I did was balance out that problem by screwing in the screw on the wound side of the claw, so that the claw was further in by 3/8" at the wound side (but that might depend on your string gauge as I use 11/52 and I use all 5 springs or 4 on 1 of my Strats as they are strong springs). Taking the strings and springs off, I adjusted the trem bridge screws, by holding the bridge up, so the block is hitting the rear of the cavity, I started to screw down until I felt the screw wanting to flatten the bridge, then stopped. I did this to them all to achieve continuity with all the bridge screw heights. After I did all this, I was amazed at the difference, balancing that bridge out and bridge screw adjustment really solved the problem, along with the lesser angle at the string tree. All my trems are floating at 3/16". I've been doing this for the past 40+ years to all my Strats and every one of them is gig fit and solid. I hope some of you find this helpful, as I went through endless tweaking and changing tuners for quite a few months all those years ago. All 6 of my strats, bar one of them, are partcasters and have either bone or graphtech nuts, it really does matter what material you use there, for functionality and tone and minimum friction. When you have a fully functioning Strat, there's nothing quite like it. Great vid again Allen . All the very best. Oh ! and I did the door thing with 1 or 2 trem bars also. lol.
WAR DAMN EAGLE!!! I grew up in Smith's Station. Now I live in Phenix city/Ladonia. Just wanted to say, it's great to know a home grown boy made a name for himself!! Ok Sir, be safe and be Blessed!!!
Spot on, Allen! I subscribe to a lot of guitar / music related channels but yours is the only one that I have the notifications bell turned on. I really appreciate your music as well as videos like this. Thank you, brother! 🎸
This was really informative. Loved those Chord-flutters. I was so frustrated with my vintage Fender-strat, then I bought a Suhr-strat with the Gotoh 510 Trem-system and it's "On another Level" = Incredible tuning stability & return-to-pitch. oNe LoVe from NYC
cool video. Regarding Strats being indestructible - so true, and if you ever strip a screw hole in the body whether it be putting on a pickguard or the larger adjustment screws in the trem cavity, you can "dowel" those holes with a toothpick and wood glue or a slightly larger diameter dowel in the trem cavity, and the snip off the protrusion and you have a fresh place to re-screw. There is never permanent damage to a strat :). I love you videos. Not only informative but also cathartic to watch.
Great video! I just did all of this yesterday on my PRS, including bending the arm. The one thing I would add is to use the correct size screwdriver so you don’t strip out your screws. Thank you for this video. Great info.👍🏻
Thanks man for taking the time and effort to do this and share with everyone watching for me it's helped confirm most of my own theories on the fender stratocaster syncronised tremolo system and other very similar like wilkenson 2 point withallen keys it's the same concept of physics a bit like juggling two main points tk keel on like the balance of tension between the strings and springs and bridge heel angle if that's the correct terminology idk but I underwood your illustration of the two trees and rope , in this case its the very short springs that come made with different materials and tensions vs with the strings so to me the most important points are being aware of that if you get new strings, I've tried allsorts and swapped out springs so the claw is even like I made it too complicated doing that but my theory was the bass side has more pull or hard tension than the treble side so low E vs high E so I've found the floyd rose springs come in differently gagued tensions identified by colour, I've put a Couple red springs (higher tension) on the bass side while having either the springs that came with the bridge on the treble side and other times just three green floyd rose springs, basically tried it all as far as I know. But now I just stick to the springs that come with the wilkenson two point tremolo system serial no I don't have at hand if anyone wants to know msg a reply I'll look it up it's a great bridge it works really well I'm building a partscaster it's so far the best closest to the original fender tremolo system but still having the two points in my opinion is easiest to set whichever way I want I like floating so I can get a full back to the body pull but not take the G string further than one whole step. Lubricate with grease all the mechanical contacts or points of friction with something that'll last not so much oil on those parts more grease and oil on the nut and trees less dense doesn't dull the strings. But most importantly make sure there's nothing obstructing the rocking movement of the bridge plate, block and springs. I had a little issue where I was hearing creaking noises while setting this up on my partscaster it was th bridge block rubbing against the body near the top because it wasike £35 for th lis unfinished sycamore wood body which came routed out a little bit too tight in a few areas easy fix it's wood so. Yeah that's my tuppence worth in on tremolo.for now hope someone benefits from this have a great day ppl ❤
Dead on correct about the springs creating a kind of reverb tank - even more so when the back cover is on. I personally found the ringing of the springs problematic as it would sometimes create overtones that came through the pickups and clashed with the notes being played. I figured out when I was playing my Eric Johnson signature strat - it comes without a backplate, and when I would stand and play the springs would make contact with my body and be deadened. One afternoon I was sitting home practicing and I kept getting this clashing overtone or harmonic ringing through - I stood up and played and it stopped. After going back and forth several times I figured out it was the springs ringing - I could use my hand and deaden the springs and the ringing would stop. Since then I have added rubber tubing on the inside of the springs that deaden ring - Steve Vai does something similar in that he places tissue paper in the back cavity under the cover to deaden the springs.
Thank you sir. You confirmed what I have struggled with; break angle. I have known for a while that the higher the tail end of the system, the harder it is to play two/three note bends in tune. So I guess it's just a give-and-take situation. Or, perhaps I'm not taking string tension into account?
Thanks for sharing! I love the strat lately, definitely the whammy bar is a big part of that. I like to get in a venture's groove doodling. The springs do provide a reverb effect for sure. I arrange mine so it just bends low, so mostly flat against body. I'll have to try letting it float more to go up and down. I bought some nuts I want to try and and anchor that bar - the free play loose is annoying. That could be a challenge and still allow it to rotate in and out of play position. The single coil pickups are an enduring sound on the strats. I haven't played my les-paul style guitars lately, but I did grow fond of the high bridge you can mute with palm. You do some nice noodling! Cheers from MN.
The thing I like about a floating bridge is that when you do a deep Gilmour bend it raises the bridge which gives you more clearance over the frets and you will hear a clearer note. The other advantage is that it's like a good mouse pointer that slows down as it comes to what you're clicking on. As you do a deep bend it will go flat the deeper the bend and it will be easier to hit the note. This is why so many people that play a Strat feel like they're missing something when playing a hardtail Strat or a Tele, you really can hear and feel a difference. And BTW, I never use the whammy bar, have never liked it.
1. use a blocking “system/method” to set the bridge at desired angle (kept in place by tightening back plate screws. 2. setup guitar. 3. unblock bridge and retune using the back plate screws. You will be in tune/intonated at your aforementioned desired angle. Yes, break angle over the saddle gives a slightly different feel of string as well as vibrato action.
thts a ballad from my cd that has yet to be released the "label" is getting me to try more c"commercial" tunes... Im trying to believe and get it all out soon, thanks
This is great. Thank you. I have 2 Strats. Cheap ones and one is floating while the other is not. I like them both that way but for different reasons. Any tips on how not to chew your hand up when you're palm muting? The screws protrude more on the saddles of my floating trem.
If the strings had hinger tension with greater break angles, the pitch would be higher. The higher break angle will, in theory, result in more vibration being absorbed by the guitar, and a different behavior with string bending.
I put a shim between the trem block and body so that the bridge is slightly off the body. I find it helps sustain (like a hard tail) and enables me to finish a song live without going too much out of tune when I break a string. As for whammy up like JB, I don't have those alien skills. 🙂
I think the company “hip shot “. used to make a product called the trem setter that would Kinda do the same if you broke a string it would keep it at a stationary position
Another cool video, Allen. Thanks! It's a bit of a shame how many people go without the ability to bend because of a lack of understanding about how these trem systems work. Here's a link to a video from a luthier who has some really great methods for performing these adjustments. This is for six bolt bridge and he has others including one for two bolt bridges - ua-cam.com/video/OUkKZy8U_gA/v-deo.html. I have used these videos to create a floating setup that allow up to a minor 3rd bend - of course, varies by string - on two strats with two bolt bridges and they stay in tune better than most of my guitars!
So easy, I taught myself when I was 17, I could barely play a guitar learned to fix all tremolos, piclups are not microphones, a plastic cover will effect nothing. I've played a 74 Strat for 30+ years. Also the idea that wrapping string gives "looser" feel... I will remind you that if it was looser it would go out of tune...this is simple physics.
COMMENT... Kids,u know All those thousands of dollars your parents spend so U could go G.I.T. it's so U could learn from the best...Mr. Hinds..Is. One of the best.. for me personally.Id rather he spent his time on utube showing us mortals some altered concepts...hint hint.lol
That’s why Fender recommended the back of the bridge 3.2mm off the body. So that the whammy will be perpendicular to the strings. And no the springs do not create a reverb chamber . You pros are such suckers for this people marketing. It is unbelievable! 🤣. You believe every damn myth. Joking of course.
I don’t measure the height of the strings from the frets either. No matter what anyone recommends. It’s a “feel “ thing for me. But I get your point. Thanks. “ sucker”? I listen and Try to keep an open mind. Best I can. I actually “use” the bridge to create melodies so it has to be a certain tension and adjusted a certain way. But that’s just me. That’s the beautiful thing about Guitar to each his own, all I can do is recommend what works for me. Thanks
Fender can recommend all they want but it’s a personal choice at the end of the day. And you believe that the springs don’t make a difference and that’s great for you. I doubt if I am a sucker for every contraption that somebody comes up with, again that’s another opinion of yours and no I don’t believe every “damn myth”. And I’m not sure I understand the “joke” but if you would like to talk further please contact me maybe we can meet up and talk it out ? Over a beer or two
@@chrislestermusic please Chris you tell me if this is a how to set up a floating trem video. If you say it is and that the springs makes a Strat a little reverb I will apologize. I swear to god !👍👍
![The Perfect Stratocaster Trem / Vibrato Setup [Floating, Flat Or Blocked?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PjVXWyUGpwc/mqdefault.jpg)
I remember as a young guitar player, I was scared to death to setup my own guitars. Especially when I started using trems. I’m a double locking Floyd guy myself. That’s what I learned on and tackled the setups on. I used to constantly bring my guitars to this kindly old gentleman in my town who was an excellent guitar and amp repairman. He told me to stop wasting my money on him setting up my guitars and come in to his shop and he would teach me. I would go in to his shop every day after work for about an hour. I did that for a month because I loved watching and listening to him and the knowledge he had. Anyway, long story short, he taught me everything about setting up my guitar, trem and all! I even learned how to solder in new, upgraded components and pickup swaps. I’ve done my own guitars ever since and you are right, it’s a total bonding thing and I know my guitars inside and out.
Cool story.
Thank you so much, Mr. Hinds!
Geez, the song at the end. So beautiful and soulful. Looking forward to it being released!
This has inspired me to get under the hood of my old Strat. I decked the bridge about 20 years ago, put the trem arm in the case, and forgot about it.
A long time ago I was having tuning problems with my first Strat with a trem (my very first Fender Strat was a 1971 hardtail). After much experimenting and tweaking, what I did first was lessen the angle at the string tree by adding another couple of spacers. The friction points at the bridge were rectified by a spring claw adjustment, there is always more pull on the bridge with the wound string side. What I noticed when looking down the body to the bridge was, the wound side of the bridge plate was very slightly higher from the body (we're talking barely 1mm) but it was noticeable. What I did was balance out that problem by screwing in the screw on the wound side of the claw, so that the claw was further in by 3/8" at the wound side (but that might depend on your string gauge as I use 11/52 and I use all 5 springs or 4 on 1 of my Strats as they are strong springs). Taking the strings and springs off, I adjusted the trem bridge screws, by holding the bridge up, so the block is hitting the rear of the cavity, I started to screw down until I felt the screw wanting to flatten the bridge, then stopped. I did this to them all to achieve continuity with all the bridge screw heights. After I did all this, I was amazed at the difference, balancing that bridge out and bridge screw adjustment really solved the problem, along with the lesser angle at the string tree. All my trems are floating at 3/16". I've been doing this for the past 40+ years to all my Strats and every one of them is gig fit and solid. I hope some of you find this helpful, as I went through endless tweaking and changing tuners for quite a few months all those years ago. All 6 of my strats, bar one of them, are partcasters and have either bone or graphtech nuts, it really does matter what material you use there, for functionality and tone and minimum friction. When you have a fully functioning Strat, there's nothing quite like it. Great vid again Allen . All the very best. Oh ! and I did the door thing with 1 or 2 trem bars also. lol.
WAR DAMN EAGLE!!! I grew up in Smith's Station. Now I live in Phenix city/Ladonia.
Just wanted to say, it's great to know a home grown boy made a name for himself!! Ok Sir, be safe and be Blessed!!!
All wonderful advice. Strats are like old Chevys, easy to take apart with lots of after-market parts.:)
Excellent video! You kinda said it all when it comes to the particular personality traits of the STRAT.
Glad I found your channel!
Cheers!
Spot on, Allen! I subscribe to a lot of guitar / music related channels but yours is the only one that I have the notifications bell turned on. I really appreciate your music as well as videos like this. Thank you, brother! 🎸
Thanks a lot
This was really informative. Loved those Chord-flutters. I was so frustrated with my vintage Fender-strat, then I bought a Suhr-strat with the Gotoh 510 Trem-system and it's "On another Level" = Incredible tuning stability & return-to-pitch. oNe LoVe from NYC
cool video. Regarding Strats being indestructible - so true, and if you ever strip a screw hole in the body whether it be putting on a pickguard or the larger adjustment screws in the trem cavity, you can "dowel" those holes with a toothpick and wood glue or a slightly larger diameter dowel in the trem cavity, and the snip off the protrusion and you have a fresh place to re-screw. There is never permanent damage to a strat :). I love you videos. Not only informative but also cathartic to watch.
Awesome video, Allen, really appreciate all the knowledge and insights, thanks!! Ps. Looking forward to the new CD!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video! I just did all of this yesterday on my PRS, including bending the arm. The one thing I would add is to use the correct size screwdriver so you don’t strip out your screws. Thank you for this video. Great info.👍🏻
Great stuff Allen, I use the Xotic RV springs in mine as I prefer the lighter consistent feel they give me (from a UK Patron too).
Thanks man for taking the time and effort to do this and share with everyone watching for me it's helped confirm most of my own theories on the fender stratocaster syncronised tremolo system and other very similar like wilkenson 2 point withallen keys it's the same concept of physics a bit like juggling two main points tk keel on like the balance of tension between the strings and springs and bridge heel angle if that's the correct terminology idk but I underwood your illustration of the two trees and rope , in this case its the very short springs that come made with different materials and tensions vs with the strings so to me the most important points are being aware of that if you get new strings, I've tried allsorts and swapped out springs so the claw is even like I made it too complicated doing that but my theory was the bass side has more pull or hard tension than the treble side so low E vs high E so I've found the floyd rose springs come in differently gagued tensions identified by colour, I've put a Couple red springs (higher tension) on the bass side while having either the springs that came with the bridge on the treble side and other times just three green floyd rose springs, basically tried it all as far as I know. But now I just stick to the springs that come with the wilkenson two point tremolo system serial no I don't have at hand if anyone wants to know msg a reply I'll look it up it's a great bridge it works really well I'm building a partscaster it's so far the best closest to the original fender tremolo system but still having the two points in my opinion is easiest to set whichever way I want I like floating so I can get a full back to the body pull but not take the G string further than one whole step. Lubricate with grease all the mechanical contacts or points of friction with something that'll last not so much oil on those parts more grease and oil on the nut and trees less dense doesn't dull the strings. But most importantly make sure there's nothing obstructing the rocking movement of the bridge plate, block and springs. I had a little issue where I was hearing creaking noises while setting this up on my partscaster it was th bridge block rubbing against the body near the top because it wasike £35 for th lis unfinished sycamore wood body which came routed out a little bit too tight in a few areas easy fix it's wood so. Yeah that's my tuppence worth in on tremolo.for now hope someone benefits from this have a great day ppl ❤
ALLEN we look forward for the album!!!!
Dead on correct about the springs creating a kind of reverb tank - even more so when the back cover is on.
I personally found the ringing of the springs problematic as it would sometimes create overtones that came through the pickups and clashed with the notes being played. I figured out when I was playing my Eric Johnson signature strat - it comes without a backplate, and when I would stand and play the springs would make contact with my body and be deadened. One afternoon I was sitting home practicing and I kept getting this clashing overtone or harmonic ringing through - I stood up and played and it stopped. After going back and forth several times I figured out it was the springs ringing - I could use my hand and deaden the springs and the ringing would stop. Since then I have added rubber tubing on the inside of the springs that deaden ring - Steve Vai does something similar in that he places tissue paper in the back cavity under the cover to deaden the springs.
Thank you sir. You confirmed what I have struggled with; break angle. I have known for a while that the higher the tail end of the system, the harder it is to play two/three note bends in tune. So I guess it's just a give-and-take situation.
Or, perhaps I'm not taking string tension into account?
Great video Allen. I like to work on my own guitars and have been enjoying your videos. Come back to Alabama! I’d love to see you live sometime.
I agree but that sweater can stay in LA.
Great musician 👍
awesome, thanks
Thanks for sharing! I love the strat lately, definitely the whammy bar is a big part of that. I like to get in a venture's groove doodling. The springs do provide a reverb effect for sure. I arrange mine so it just bends low, so mostly flat against body.
I'll have to try letting it float more to go up and down. I bought some nuts I want to try and and anchor that bar - the
free play loose is annoying. That could be a challenge and still allow it to rotate in and out of play position. The single coil pickups are an enduring sound on the strats. I haven't played my les-paul style guitars lately, but I did grow fond of the high bridge you can mute with palm. You do some nice noodling! Cheers from MN.
You can put a spring in the term bar hole before you put the term bar in and screw it down and it will stop the rattling
The thing I like about a floating bridge is that when you do a deep Gilmour bend it raises the bridge which gives you more clearance over the frets and you will hear a clearer note. The other advantage is that it's like a good mouse pointer that slows down as it comes to what you're clicking on. As you do a deep bend it will go flat the deeper the bend and it will be easier to hit the note. This is why so many people that play a Strat feel like they're missing something when playing a hardtail Strat or a Tele, you really can hear and feel a difference. And BTW, I never use the whammy bar, have never liked it.
1. use a blocking “system/method” to set the bridge at desired angle (kept in place by tightening back plate screws. 2. setup guitar. 3. unblock bridge and retune using the back plate screws. You will be in tune/intonated at your aforementioned desired angle.
Yes, break angle over the saddle gives a slightly different feel of string as well as vibrato action.
I think I'm mature enough to own a vibrato unit now. I really want to do those little Jeff Beck scoops.
Awesome info! New subscriber.
thanks
thts a ballad from my cd that has yet to be released
the "label" is getting me to try more c"commercial" tunes... Im trying to believe and get it all out soon, thanks
Yeah man. Guitaristic attention.
✌️🙏🏼🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸☮️🌎💪🎸
This is great. Thank you. I have 2 Strats. Cheap ones and one is floating while the other is not. I like them both that way but for different reasons. Any tips on how not to chew your hand up when you're palm muting? The screws protrude more on the saddles of my floating trem.
If the strings had hinger tension with greater break angles, the pitch would be higher. The higher break angle will, in theory, result in more vibration being absorbed by the guitar, and a different behavior with string bending.
Interesting isnt it ?
Literally reading my mind. Great video. That neck on that Strat though is beautiful. Stock?
Hi Allen: curious as to whereabout you set your string height?
I put a shim between the trem block and body so that the bridge is slightly off the body. I find it helps sustain (like a hard tail) and enables me to finish a song live without going too much out of tune when I break a string. As for whammy up like JB, I don't have those alien skills. 🙂
I think the company “hip shot “. used to make a product called the trem setter that would Kinda do the same if you broke a string it would keep it at a stationary position
@@allenhindsguitar i use tremolno. i can hard tail my strat anytime if i break a string. it can be locked or fully floating.
Whats the song at the end
War Eagle!
War Damn Eagle!!
Looks like your strat needs a neck shim?? The Low E string looks high. 🤔
war-eagle!!
Sir Allen have you tried other spring claw?
Not really.
Hahah at the end of the video where it said "i know" i was sure it was gonna say keeping strings in tune sucks after 🤣
What is this Auburn that your shirt speaks of?
Its Auburn University, in Auburn Alabama
Hello Allen! What about your new album?
The label is waiting for a singer to finish singing one song. Thanks for asking
Howe do you kip it in tunne so vel????🤔🙂🙂🙂🫶🎸🥁
Well it’s inevitable to go out some. But clean slots at the nut and lubricated helps. Keeping the bridge screws adjusted. Little things
@@allenhindsguitar 😊🙏🏻
Looking for the real Jeff Beck setup.
🤷🏻♂️✌️🎸
Another cool video, Allen. Thanks! It's a bit of a shame how many people go without the ability to bend because of a lack of understanding about how these trem systems work. Here's a link to a video from a luthier who has some really great methods for performing these adjustments. This is for six bolt bridge and he has others including one for two bolt bridges - ua-cam.com/video/OUkKZy8U_gA/v-deo.html.
I have used these videos to create a floating setup that allow up to a minor 3rd bend - of course, varies by string - on two strats with two bolt bridges and they stay in tune better than most of my guitars!
So easy, I taught myself when I was 17, I could barely play a guitar learned to fix all tremolos, piclups are not microphones, a plastic cover will effect nothing. I've played a 74 Strat for 30+ years. Also the idea that wrapping string gives "looser" feel... I will remind you that if it was looser it would go out of tune...this is simple physics.
Thanks for the input
COMMENT... Kids,u know All those thousands of dollars your parents spend so U could go G.I.T. it's so U could learn from the best...Mr. Hinds..Is. One of the best.. for me personally.Id rather he spent his time on utube showing us mortals some altered concepts...hint hint.lol
If you have not checked it out, you should check TremKing trem.
It would be interesting to see your opinion about it.
That’s why Fender recommended the back of the bridge 3.2mm off the body. So that the whammy will be perpendicular to the strings. And no the springs do not create a reverb chamber . You pros are such suckers for this people marketing. It is unbelievable! 🤣. You believe every damn myth. Joking of course.
I don’t measure the height of the strings from the frets either. No matter what anyone recommends. It’s a “feel “ thing for me. But I get your point. Thanks. “ sucker”? I listen and Try to keep an open mind. Best I can. I actually “use” the bridge to create melodies so it has to be a certain tension and adjusted a certain way. But that’s just me. That’s the beautiful thing about Guitar to each his own, all I can do is recommend what works for me. Thanks
Silviu, aren’t you the same guy that pissed off Tom Bukovac? You’re on a roll.
Fender can recommend all they want but it’s a personal choice at the end of the day. And you believe that the springs don’t make a difference and that’s great for you. I doubt if I am a sucker for every contraption that somebody comes up with, again that’s another opinion of yours and no I don’t believe every “damn myth”. And I’m not sure I understand the “joke” but if you would like to talk further please contact me maybe we can meet up and talk it out ? Over a beer or two
But I do appreciate you putting So much time into your comment and thought , opining ! thank you very much
@@chrislestermusic please Chris you tell me if this is a how to set up a floating trem video. If you say it is and that the springs makes a Strat a little reverb I will apologize. I swear to god !👍👍