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Toyota/Lexus 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2021
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In this 2-part video series, we replace the timing belt and associated parts on a 2008 Lexus GX470 with the 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Engine. This engine can be found in a lot of other vehicles including: Toyota Sequoias, Toyota Tundras, Toyota 4th Gen 4Runners, Toyota 100 Series Land Cruisers and Lexus LX470s so this video will help you replace the timing belt and associates parts on these models as well. There might be slight differences between the models but the bulk of the job should be very similar.
In Part 1, we cover stripping down the front of the engine, getting the timing belt off and getting the water pump off. We also show replacing the crankshaft seal.
*PARTS LIST*
*Aisin Timing Belt Kit #TKT-O21 (Comes with timing belt, timing belt tensioner, #1 & #2 idler pulleys, and water pump and water pump gaskets) amzn.to/3eYLt40
*Toyota Thermostat #9091603138
amzn.to/33vLtU6
*Lexus Thermostat Housing Seal #1634650010
amzn.to/3eYM0D2
*Denso Radiator #221-3125
amzn.to/3y162Wv
*Toyota Radiator Cap #16401-31650
amzn.to/3uABBEe
*Aisin Seal Kit #SKT-002 (Kit comes with both cams seals, crankshaft seal and the little rubber piece we replaced that goes onto the side of the lower timing cover.) amzn.to/3b9RKJh
*Toyota Crankshaft Seal #90311A0001 (If you didn't want to buy the kit above and want to follow our lead and just replace the crankshaft seal as part of this job.) amzn.to/3tAuMkR
*Aisin Fan Pulley Bracket #FBT-002
amzn.to/2RFGKwp
*Lexus Lower Radiator Hose #1657150200
amzn.to/3uCxRlC
*Lexus Upper Radiator Hose #1657250190
amzn.to/3ew8gVP
*Radiator Hose Clamps #90466A0026
ebay.us/iu4tUw
* Toyota Crank Bolt #90109-18003
www.toyotapart...
*Gates 90K-38488 Complete Serpentine Belt Drive Component Kit (We used the dynamic tensioner and belt from this kit. The idler pulley from this kit didn't look like the original so we decided not to use it. We link the right idler pulley below.) amzn.to/3xZ2Tqc
*Lexus 16604-0F010, Drive Belt Idler Pulley
amzn.to/3euci18
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set
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*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
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*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set
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*3/8” Drive Universal Impact Socket Set
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*Impact Socket Adapter and Reducer Set
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*3/8" Drive Wobble Impact Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*18 Quart Food Storage Container
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*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers
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*Straight Needle Nose Pliers
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*Silicone Plug Kit
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*Adjustable Spark Plug Wire Puller
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*Small Pick Tool Set
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*Hose Remover Set
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set
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*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
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*3/8” Drive Swivel
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*Telescoping Magnet Pick-up Tool
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*Tekton Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set
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*Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool
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*1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24”
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*OTC 4518 Puller Set
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*Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
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*Crankshaft and Camshaft Seal Tool Kit
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
*Here's a list of what the Toyota/Lexus factory service manuals said in regards to the positioning of the timing marks before you remove the belt: But, if you watched the video, you saw that we followed these instructions for the 2008 GX 470 and it didn't work out for us. We wanted to provide you with this information, but for now, we think it would be smarter to use the "T" mark behind the camshaft pulleys as the "Safe Spot" to turn the timing marks to in preparation to remove the timing belt. We are hoping that people try out the "T" position and report back to us telling us how it worked out for them.*
*1998 - 2007 Lexus GX470* - FSM instructs to put the timing 50 degrees BTDC (before top dead center)
*2003 Lexus LX470* - Says nothing about putting the timing marks BTDC or ATCD(after top dead center)
*2004 Lexus LX470* - Says nothing about putting the timing marks BTDC or ATDC
*2005 Lexus LX470* - Says nothing about putting the timing marks BTCD or ATDC
*2006 Lexus LX470* - FSM instructs to put the timing marks 45 degrees BTDC
*2007 Lexus LX470* - 45 degrees BTDC
*2003 - 2009 Toyota 4runner* - 50 degree BTDC
*1998 - 2002 Land Cruiser* - 50 degrees BTDC
*2003 - 2005 Land Cruiser* - FSM says nothing
*2006 - 2007 Land Cruiser* - 45 degrees BTDC
*2008 - 2011 Land Cruiser* - I couldn't find FSM info on thees years. I read the 2UZ-FE engine came on these models as well but couldn't find info.
*2001 - 2004 Toyota Sequoia* - FSM says nothing
*2005 - 2007 Toyota Sequoia* - 50 degrees ATDC
*2008 - 2009 Toyota Sequoia* - FSM says nothing
*2000 - 2004 Toyota Tundra* - FSM says nothing
*2005 Toyota Tundra* - 50 degree ATDC
*2006 Toyota Tundra* - 50 degrees BTDC
*2007 - 2009 Toyota Tundra* - 45 degrees BTDC
*Update 05/10/21* - With this 2UZ-FE engine, via forums, I have heard people mention that their timing belt broke while the engine was running and no damage occurred which doesn't support this being an interference engine. I have also heard that people have turned over the crankshaft and camshafts independently of each other with no detectable interference which also doesn't support this being an interference engine.. With an interference engine, it means the valves can contact the piston heads if the engine falls out of correct timing which happens when the belt breaks or you turn the crankshaft and camshafts independently of each other. I have also heard that it's only the VVT (variable valve timing) engines that are known to sustain damage if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running. The 2UZ-FE engine is listed as an interference engine. But, it appears even with this designation, it's not necessarily a death sentence for your engine if the timing belt breaks. So, if you sustain a timing belt failure, maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones and you're engine will be fine. You just have to get in there, replace the belt and cross your fingers that your motor is all good.
*Update 06/28/23* - There have been MANY people over the last 2 years that have reported the "T" mark behind the camshaft pulleys is definitely a "Safe Spot" to turn the timing marks to in preparation to remove the timing belt. The cams stay put and don't jump when left in this position.
On a side note, the manual I have for a 2006 Sienna (3mz-fe), says 60 degrees BTDC. It gives a notice directly after: If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and valve head to come into contact with each other when you remove the camshaft timing pulley and camshaft, causing damage. So always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct angle.
Did not see anything saying that 60 BTDC prevents a cam from jumping. Do those manuals give that same notice, or something different?
@@nikovandh Yeah, the manual pages I looked through for the models with the 2UZ-FE engine said the same exact thing. But, for this job, you're only removing the camshafts if you're replacing the camshaft seals. So, it's weird that they mention the removal of the camshaft and camshaft pulley. In those FSM pages, they say nothing about removing the camshaft. The job is about replacing the timing belt so that's why I "assumed" the purpose of the timing orientation was to prevent the camshafts from jumping and potentially sending a valve into a piston head.
@@TimmyTheToolman for some reason I think they assumed the camshaft wouldn't move much at all when the belt is removed and that they are inferring that any significant movement of the cams is going to be when someone is removing the cam pulley or camshaft itself... But who knows - I felt like sometimes certain instructions have a slightly weird wording, as if it was translated from Japanese (makes me think the original manual writers were Japanese)
@@nikovandh Yep, I think the same thing. The message was lost in translation.
So for an 01 sequoia fsm says nothing about positioning timing marks. Meaning if I take the belt off I don’t need to line anything up, just leave it as is and it will be good? Or does it infer to get it lined up and leave it there and not go 45 degrees bdc or adc etc?
Watched both videos before tackling this job. Read tons of comments in both comment sections and applied some of their tips/lessons learned. Used the videos along the way under the hood. Tons of great information!! This saved me so much time and money! I appreciate your dedication and attention to detail. You guys are the best!
Glad our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
You guys are literally on my intake manifold telling me what to do... correctly. About to do my 6th timing belt job but still use this as a rock solid reference
Thanks again Dan for the kind words. We are stoked you’re watching and benefitting from our content.
Awesome video, thank you so much for taking the time to put this together. I did this last weekend on my '07 Land Cruiser. This was my second belt replacement and last time the car was out of action for a full week, this time 2.5 days, part was experience but this video gets a great deal of credit. On mine, for the timing marks, I got it lined up and then turned the crank shaft bolt clockwise till they pointed to the T mark. This worked out last time and this time, no jumping. A few things of note, on mine, I did not have to remove the AC compressor, I did remove 3 bolts that it shares with the fan bracket. Also, to remove my crank shaft bolt, I used a chain wrench to hold it in place. I wrapped a piece of the old v-belt around it to protect it, worked like a charm.
Hey Kevin, Glad you found our video helpful. Good job getting it done and thanks for sharing your tips and tricks!
So, you turned the crank some say 30, 40, 50 degrees?
@@onesri6108 yeah, I’d say it was maybe 30 degrees or so, this lined up right on the T
I’ve performed this timing belt replacement several times. I always add a BG cooling system flush before doing the timing belt/water pump service. I flush the entire cooling system and then remove the radiator as well to flush it outside the vehicle with soft water spigot in I had installed with my system.
I’ve successfully used the Aisin timing belt kit as well as Aisin thermostat. Aisin is a Toyota/Lexus OE parts supplier. It’s a bit of an overkill, but the customer with the cooling system flush. I also use this time to replace other cooling hoses (oil cooler hoses) since they are very accessible during this type of job. This is an excellent Toyota engine that has logged 1,000,000 miles with scheduled maintenance. The American Big 3 have nothing like this engine on their trucks/SUVs. Excellent job/video Timmy!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this job. Yep, these engines are bomb proof.
Any chance you have info on the part numbers of the hoses that are worth swapping while in here?
Toyota online parts, using your VIN just for confirmation, will help identify those part numbers for you. Aisin sells the water pump kit along with idler pulley and tensioner. You just need the crankshaft seal from Toyota.
Hey yall, I just did my timing belt on my 07 Sequoia and I can confirm that using the "T" mark method for the camshaft pulleys worked as it should have, neither of my cams jumped. Thanks for all your work and for sharing the knowledge @TimmyTheToolman !
Thanks Trevor. Others have reported the same thing. I'm happy to know our video series helped you do the timing belt job on your Sequoia. Good job! Happy Wrenching!
I watched this video twice from start to finish before doing the job and it really helped. Came back and watched sections as I did the job. Some advice:
1. It's a good time to change your spark plugs as well. Taking the plugs out makes turning the crankshaft smoother too.
2. Don't remove the hex bolt that holds the timing tensioner pulley bracket to the oil pan. You can undo the tensioner pulley and replace it without removing the bracket, and it's easy to tip it out of the way of the water pump if it even gets in the way. This lets you skip worrying about using Loctite.
3. I tried the 50 degrees before TDC on my GX470 because the factory manual says that. Ended up with jumping cams. Advance to the T marks, the cams sit stable. And crank the crankshaft forward to two teeth past TDC. If you've turned a little past TDC, you can count teeth to line things up. Turning the engine backwards seems impossible since the crank bolt only goes forward, so now that my cams are steady at the T marks, I have to hold the crankshaft at the matching position and get the belt back on.
Thanks for sharing your tips for the job. Glad our video helped you out.
Did you replace just the pulley because the hex bolt didn't come out or you just wanted to avoid the risk of it stripping? Did you just removed and use the pulley from the new kit? Any torque figures by chance?
Fantastic video, thanks for taking the time to make these videos and putting them out on the internet. Your videos are the gold standard for car repair how-to's. I have a '98 4runner with the 3.4L v6 and a 2000 Tundra wit the 4.7L v8. Over 700,000 salty midwest miles between the two.... your videos have saved them from the junkyard...... thank you!
Thanks Scott. We appreciate you taking the time to comment to let us know our videos have helped you with your 4runner and Tundra. Thanks for the nice compliment too. It means a lot to Sean and I to hear this sort of feedback. Happy Wrenching Bro!
Over 700k miles?! This is why I'm getting this engine in the 4th gen 4runner down the road when my titan dies.
Thank you Tim and Sean! I just wrapped up doing this job on my 2005 Tundra and your video was incredibly helpful. I prayed to the 2uzfe gods and it started! I watched a couple other videos and they didn’t come close in terms of quality and detail. I set my cams to the T marks and when I removed the belt nothing moved. Sounds like it depends on the year of the engine if this works. I really appreciate you taking the time to make these high quality and helpful videos.
Hey Craig, glad you found our video helpful. We appreciate the compliment that our video stood above the rest in quality and detail. Thanks for confirming the "T" position for the cams worked out. Many others have said the same thing. Happy Wrenching!
How long did it take you?
Ive searched the entire web for this video, by far, best video and very informative! Thank you
Sicmods mr. noble! We are stoked you found our content!
❤ Great video!
Very well detailed!
All step are shown clearly, and you made them easy to follow.
You went through a lot of work to show how to set the camshaft and crank timing marks for multiple engine variations.
Best video!!!
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Thanks again for this video!!!
I'm also using the car care nut video, which is more concise at about 30 minutes. That's a great overview one, and this one is a great detailed process video with many tips and tricks. The CCN says to use the T on the cams for the timing marks and the corresponsing small mark on the crank.
I'm half way through and about to remove the timing belt. I tried an air hammer to get the crank bolt loose, but I had to use a chain wrench braced against the frame, and then a breaker bar with a large extension pipe that fits on the end and a smaller extension bar inside of that for about a four foot length. It took a lot of torque!
My thoughts on the camshafts rotating: I experienced this when doing the timing belt on my 99 CRV. I had to use the wrench on the camshaft trick too. When you're at TDC you'll have all valves closed for some cylinders, but others will be at BDC and so will be "on lobe". That would make the valve springs want to make the camshaft rotate. You want a neutral position where there's either no valve pressure on the cam lobes (don't know if that's possible), or a position where it's equalized for rotation each way. I'm presuming that's where the "T" position is. Hope it works out ok for me.
You're welcome, Craig. The Car Care Nut guy might have over a million subscribers, but he's got nothing on us when it comes to the detail we offer in our videos. When people get lost from another Toyota DIY Channel's video, they come to us for help.
Thanks for verifying the T position works like many others before you have already told us. I hope the rest of the job goes smoothly for you. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman
Edit: got the belt on an most things back together. Honestly this would have been way more difficult without you guys! Thanks again so much!!!
@craigiefconcert6493 You're very welcome. I guess you're saying the 30-minute Car Care Nut video wouldn't have been sufficient to walk you through the whole job. I'm glad our 2-part series helped you get the job done. Happy Wrenching!
Can I just say thank you for these 2 videos me and my dad spent some time watching and following along and got my 4.7 runner back to were she should be, it had the worst timing belt I’ve ever seen, dried and cracks all along it I was lucky I decided to check the belt when I did my oil change and didn’t drive it till she had a new belt had abit of trouble with the gasket maker for the coolant connection but you my friend made this job a breeze 10 out of 10 review from me, you know your way around an engine, other tutorials don’t compare to your detail and knowledge of this project👏
Hey Frank, we really appreciate your nice compliment of our work. Thank You! We're stoked to learn our video helped you and your dad with the timing belt job. And yes, you did dodge a bullet replacing the belt before it broke since it is an interference engine. Great job and Happy Wrenching!
If before you pull the Crank Pully and the Plastic cover near the Crank, there is a metal Dowl Pin sticking out of the plastic cover. If you line the Crank Pully’s Timing mark up to it, it will put both the cam marks on the “T” the ATDC.
Thanks for sharing this. This is good to know.
It’s unbelievable how much time and anxiety you saved me with these two videos. I used your two videos and the info in the Aisin timing belt/water pump kit and had a flawless change of the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Thank You Thank You Thank You !!!
Put everything back together, turned the key (with fingers crossed) and it fired right up perfectly!! Don’t know what I was so worried about.
I have an 03 Tundra 4.7 and used the T’s for alignment to prevent any jumping and that worked great. Turned everything afterwards a number of times and the tdc on the cams kept lining up with the middle wheel even though the Lcam and Rcam belt markings kept inching around. Figured it was all aligned so put it all together. It was great.
Glad our video series helped you get the job done. You're very welcome. The lines on the belt are just to assist you getting the cams and crankshaft timed right. After you start turning over the engine, those won't line back up for a while. How many revolutions it takes, I don't know. Thanks for letting us know the "T" position worked out for you. We've been told by others the same thing. Great job tackling an involved job like this. You just learned that with the right information, right tools, and right level of patience, you can be successful with a job like this. Happy Wrenching!
How many hours did it take you to complete the job?
@elmeromeroveloz In case the other guy never responds to your question, here's my answer to you. Give yourself a whole day to complete the job. You don't want to rush. Take your time and make sure it is done right
@@GayPrideHD we spent easily 4 hours the first day tearing everything down (12:30-4:30). Second day from about 9-4, stopping for about an hour for lunch. We didn’t rush anything, so I guess about 10 hours
@@OffroadGrind sounds good! I’ll make sure to give myself plenty of time to do it. Might split it into two days like you guys did
I used the "T" timing marks (trusting that there must be a good reason they were placed there) and it worked perfectly on my 06 GX470.
Thanks for sharing this Nick. It's just weird the Toyota factory service manuals said absolutely nothing about using the "T" mark to set the timing to. It's bizarro. I think the Japanese technical writers must have had a bunch of sake on their lunch break before writing the timing belt section of the manual.
@@TimmyTheToolman Happy to give the feedback. My theory is that the "T" marks are just enough to clear the valves, but not too much to make the cams slip.
@@nicholash8021 Yep, I agree with you on your theory. I just wonder why they give all this other instructions in the manual telling you to turn it 45-50 degrees BTDC for some models, 45-50 degrees ATDC for other models or say nothing at all for some of the models with this engine. It's completely inconsistent.
@@TimmyTheToolman Agreed. I cannot understand how the engine design would be so different as to have 3 completely different options on the same engine. The proof is in the results. I've seen 3 videos with the cams slipping following the factory recommendation. Mine said to use 50-deg CC which is a pain to reverse once the crank bolt is loose. The "T" mark kept the cams in place. To get the belt on, I actually had an easier time starting with the right cam (left as you face the engine) then to the left cam as I could see the two arrows on the marks easily, then pulling down around the crank where I could see the 3 marks lining up with the hole and dot and only had to nudge the crank a feather to seat it into the belt knowing the two cams are already locked in the teeth.
@@nicholash8021 We did the same Nick. The FSM was saying to start at the crankshaft timing gear and work your way up to the cams but that suggestion messed me up big time. We started on the right cam like you did lining up the timing belt mark with the cam pulley mark, went under the upper idler pulley, got it onto the left cam lining up the marks, wrapped it around the water pump, got it onto the crankshaft timing gear lining up the timing marks and finally onto the lower idler pulley the tensioner pushes against. The FSM left a quite a bit to be desired for this job.
my man this is the first time I see a video with so much info and clear detail wow you are the man
We are all about giving the viewer enough detail to be successful. It's what separates us from most DIY Automotive Channels. Thanks for commenting.
Finally! Now ill feel better doing my sequoia. Thanks Tim! Really appreciate what you and Sean do for us fellow toyota enthusiasts. Will be doing this job very soon.
You're welcome Adam. Good luck with the job.
Did you get your timing belt how did it turn out I have a 2002 Sequoia I'm just wondering
The Toyota whisperer. I watched your 22re install video a while a go and that went smoothly. Now I’m trying to tackle this
Hope this one goes smooth for you too.
Did my Toyota 2007 4Runner today. Left it at TDC. Took the belt off nothing jumped on me!! Took me 2 hrs to take everything off but around 4hrs to put everything back. Thanks for the video 👍🏽
Good job, and you're welcome.
Great info. Doing this tomorrow and your video has cleared up quite a few uncertainties for me.
Good luck with the job.
Hey Timmy. I’m also from SJ. Doing timing belt on an 02’. Used the T’s to align(engine already TDC, pretty cool) and no movement on camshafts when removing belt. I’m about to do an install on a TRD supercharger for the 4.7 if you’re interested in doing a video. There’s not any install videos out there for it and I’ll be going at it alone otherwise. Would be great to help your channel! Thanks
Yes, we are intersered.
Yes, we are interested in helping you install it. Send me an email: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Just checking in to say this video helped me get my job done. In my experience, lining up with the "T" marks was the correct move. 2007 4runner v8. Also, you can use a piece of threaded 2" conduit cut to size to press your crank seal in rather than a $100+ set.
It's good to know our video series helped you out. Thanks for confirming the "T" position worked for the cams, and thanks for the suggestion for the affordable crank seal driver.
@TimmyTheToolman my pleasure! Been am avid consumer of your content for both 3rd gen and now 4th gen 4runner stuff. I very much appreciate your contributions to the community!
@@ChylieDartwright We're trying to do our part to help out our fellow man and woman. We're not curing cancer, but we're making some type of a contribution. Thanks!
This is a great in depth video. It’s helpful to see how you take everything off in the driveway compared to other videos in shops. Found the tip for the AC line to be useful when I did mine this weekend. I ended up removing the power steering pulley instead of the whole unit and then just letting the alternator sit on the frame, if you were going to replace them it would’ve been the perfect time.
I set mine to 50° BTDC and the CAMs jumped like in the video. Using the tip of your from the FSM of moving the cam 1 tooth made getting the new belt on a lot easier
Glad you found our videos helpful to get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with us. Happy Wrenching!
How long did the job take you?
Thank you for taking the time to show. I just wanted an idea on what it takes to get this job done and I am going to leave that to someone that knows.
How much is that "Someone That Knows" going to charge you for their time?
2uzfe. A legendary power plant another great how to by the toolman thanks 😊
Glad you like the video. The 2UZ-FE is an awesome engine.
I did a 2007 GX470 today, I watched your video beforehand to get an idea of what the job entailed. I also noticed the bizarre instruction in my service manual about turning the engine counterclockwise 50 degrees. Given your experience I decided to simply ignore this step all together. I took the belt off with everything on TDC and it stayed perfectly in place. So it looks like this step is a beginners trap, or we're all missing something, either way my belt replacement went fine so I guess the whole thing can be disregarded.
A lot of people use the "T" position for the belt removal. Maybe it's slightly less likely for the cams to jump at that position compared to TDC. Thanks for the comment.
such a great video, thank you!!
I don't know much about vehicle repair. I've only done some basic maintenance on vehicles over the years.
This looks overwhelming and intense especially me being a non mechanic. It's my truck though and my boyfriend and I will tackle it soon. I'll need to drive his truck to pull my grooming trailer until belt is changed (he also has a tundra, but 2nd gen with timing chain, which he tried to convince me to purchase, I just love the 1st gens!).
There are so many parts to this so I want to familiarize myself with the process as much as possible to make the real time process as smooth as possible. I know my boyfriend will know how to do much of this work and I will be more of the assistant but I need to know the process as well! Plus that will just make it a smoother process.
Thanks again!
You two will get it done. It's just a lot of steps but nothing is really that hard. Take your time and you'll succeed.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks so much!!! I am hesitant to drive my tundra right now til it's fixed!! Thanks!!
@@TimmyTheToolman and I'll be watching this and the part 2 numerous... As much as needed to learn! Great video!!!
@@kat4animals004 Ok, make lots of popcorn for all the video viewings.
This video is a gift! Thank you!
Thanks! It will be a gift that keeps on giving for years to come. Thanks for the comment!
- Sean
best video I've seen on this subject. great video and audio quality too!
Thanks Colin. We appreciate the compliment.
How in the world did I find such a good channel? Fantastic video
Thanks Taylor. We appreciate the compliment and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Super detailed! I can tell it took a lot of time and effort to put this video together and I, as well as others, really appreciate you putting this up for us.
Thanks David! We appreciate you acknowledging the effort we put forth to make this video series. You are right. It takes a lot of time and effort to document a job to this level, but it's the level of detail that makes all the difference to the end user. We want people to be successful using our videos as a tutorial. Happy Wrenching David!
How long did you need for the job?
@@dec2mclaren if it’s your first time doing this job, dedicate an entire day. If this isn’t your first rodeo, then it depends on how much you want to clean up the engine and what type of snags you run into.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I just saw your response on another comment. Thanks for the quick reply. It is my first and I will dedicate the full day at least. Do you have a list somewhere of the hoses that might also be worth swapping while down there?
@@dec2mclaren The only parts list we have is in the video description.
Could be wrong, but I believe the instruction for 50ish degree BTDC (or after) is so that if there is some movement of timing components during removal (such as a cam jumping), there will be plentiful space in between the pistons and valves on all cylinders, since 50ish BTDC (or after TDC) more evenly spaces out the distance between all the pistons and valves than TDC does.
Gotcha. Thanks for this insight. I was under the assumption that the positioning was to prevent the cams from jumping but now you got me thinking. But, I really wonder if any position you put the timing into would prevent all valves from being able hit a piston if the cams decided to jump on this 8 cylinder engine.
Thank you for the helpful videos. I did 50 degrees past TDC per the FSM and they jumped. What's the process to safely move everything back to TDC? Thank you
When they jumped on me, I just manually moved them back without issue. They don't move so much to cause any issue.
2004 GX470, non-VVTi. Set cams to T's, set the crank to the dowel. Removed crank bolt, belt tensioner, then belt. No jump or movements from the cams.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing. It seems setting the cams to the "T" is the right method because others have reported the same thing. It's weird that none of the factory service manuals even mentions using this mark to set the cams to.
@@TimmyTheToolman Agreed. Aisin and FSM instructions say 50° before TDC. This is the only video I could find where it was discussed at all, so thank you! Very helpful.
@@hlshook You're welcome
You are a teacher of automobile engineering I like the way you talk, the way you work it's amazing, I have subscribed your Chanel please come with more videos,
Thanks Samuel. I really appreciate your nice compliment of our work. Welcome to our channel and we will of course be coming out with more videos. Happy Wrenching!
You guys are a life saver! Thank you for your service to our community.
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment. We appreciate it.
After watching numerous times, I have to ask...
Can it get any better than Tool Time with Timmy?!?!
Great technique and tips.
Thanks Dale. We appreciate it!
Timmy, thanks for taking the time on this video, it's extremely helpful.
Regarding 34:08, if the harmonic balancer has holes all the way through and there is metal behind it, couldn't you just get pair of M8 bolts with a lot of thread and drive them in slowly together to nudge the harmonic balancer off? No T-Bar puller required, just two bolts.
You're welcome Paul. You make an interesting observation about being able to use only the bolts to force the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft. I suppose it could work, but the oil pump housing is aluminum, not steel. I'd be worried about cracking the oil pump housing if the balancer was more than just a little stuck onto the crankshaft.
just did timing belt on my 2007 Tundra with 2UZFE, rest the cam shaft on the T marks, and they did not jump. I think there is a mark on #1 timing belt cover, and you can turn your crankshaft pulley until the mark on the crankshaft pulley points to the mark on the plastic cover, once that is aligned, the marks on the camshaft pulley point to the T marks.
Thanks for the comment.
My 2000 Tundra 2UZ-FE with 312,000 mi. broke a timing belt. Found out engine should be fine since it is a non VVTi. Replaced belt, still running great.
This is the second time I've heard this that it's just the ones with variable valve timing that are Interference engines. I'll need to look into this further.
How many miles did the belt have when it broke?
Doing God's Work Brother! Thanks for sharing such an informative video! About to dive into this on my First Gen Tundra...
Suggested parts is an awesome add! Was wondering exactly what all I needed!
The Tundra has more engine compartment space so you should have an easier time than we did. Good luck with the job!
Currently doing this to my 07 GX470. Left everything at TDC and cams did not jump when I removed the belt. Hopefully that helps someone with my specific year and model.
Great video btw! I’m using your vids and a few others as reference for this job. Definitely doable for an at home mechanic….with the proper tools.
Thanks for sharing this. We appreciate it. Glad our videos are helping you out.
A YT Channel called Toyota Maintenance did a video about replacing a broken timing belt on a GX470. Video was posted around Feb 2024. While his video was not nearly as detailed as this one, he did offer some helpful comments on how to line up the timing marks. Not trying to promote another channel on your channel, so delete if it violates your rules. But it was a helpful perspective. I don't want to restate his words in this comment and cause confusion.
Thanks for the comment - we do know of "Toyota Maintenance Channel" and you mentioning him does not necessarily violate anything we get that you're not trying to promote him, but if you could do us a favor, go mention us in a comment on his video and maybe someone who needs the extra info we give in our video will help someone in the future (shameless plug, lol). It's all love from us at the end of day and we appreciate the time you took to comment on our video. Happy wrenching my friend.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I will do that right now. Anyone who is trying to do this job who is not a pro mechanic needs all the help they can get.
Appreciate the support!!! #sicmods
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this video! You the Man!
You're very welcome Mickey. Thanks!
good timing! ( pun intended) I am doing mine this week...Thanks Tim!
Well, the stars were in alignment for us to get this video to you just in time. But, Part 2 is going to be maybe as much as a week out. If you can put it off by a week, you'll have the complete package to help you get the job done. Part 2 is important because we cover all the torque values putting the engine back together.
@@TimmyTheToolman worked out great, thank you!
@@jeffyoung8047 Good to hear Jeff. You're very welcome.
I gotta do this soon. Thank you for the awesome videos as usual!
You're very welcome! Good luck with the job.
Tim your Video is fantastic I learn from this video a lot Thanks again
We're glad you like it Charlie. You're very welcome and thanks for commenting.
Thorough and awesome as always. Thanks Tim! 🤙
Thanks David and you're very welcome.
Thank you for your time im going to do this job on a toyota sequoia 2002
You're welcome
Just FYI to people with 2UZFE
Pull the plastic cam covers off. Then if you see a perfect condition belt Don’t bother changing it. Iv seen belts last 250k miles.
Well, your advice has some huge holes in it. The timing belt is just one part of the service. The timing belt runs on several pulleys, idler pulleys and the water pump pulley. What do you think happens if one of those pulleys seizes? You guessed it, the belt breaks. There's also the timing belt tensioner that can fail and cause issues with the belt skipping teeth. The water pump could develop a leak. The crankshaft seal or camshaft seals could develop leaks. So, there's a whole lot more to a timing belt service than just the timing belt.
So, your advice for an interference engine like the the 2UZ-FE engine is, is not advice I would suggest people to follow.
Excellent video, amazing detail and very helpful.
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
You’re very thorough. Well done.
Thanks for the compliment Marc.
Tim you are a godsend
Thanks! Sean and I want to empower people to do their own automotive work. Good luck with the job.
Timmy, Thank you! What a great job you do on your videos
You're welcome and thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Hey Tim was wondering how you go about fixing the timing if the cams are off from the crank? It didn't happen while running. The belt got damaged in the removal process. The belt is still on with tension. The cams are about an 1nch and a half to the left of line not the T and the crank is at 12:00.
How would I adjust the cams. Do I take the belt off and turn the cams clockwise the 1.5 inch without turning the crank?
Yeah, take the belt off and just turn the cams individually. It will be fine.
Doing my 03 4runner as I type this. Thank you!
Good luck with it. It's a BIG JOB! Happy Wrenching!
Awesome! I really appreciate these videos. I'll have to look and see if you've done one on inspecting a timing belt for condition before starting. I recently acquired a 2004 IS300 and the previous owner said the belt had been done at 100000, but I want to be sure as the 2JZ-GE is interference.
Remove one of the upper timing covers and take a peek at the belt. For the 2UZ-FE engine, the passenger side cover is the easiest to get off because there's no wiring harnesses connected to it or no wires running through it. If the belt looks at all cracked, it's time to replace it.
Great video! My opinion this is just too much to do a simple job that’s why I love my Honda but I’m happy you made this to help people who do have this! On the future if I ever buy one I’ll be watching this :)
Wow, you watched this video and don't even own one. Impressive
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks brother I like to always learn new things. I made sure I liked and subscribed also , much love to you !
@@damien169 Thanks for supporting our channel. We appreciate it!
Hey Tim! It's been a long while since seeing you do another #1 Instructional How-To Video!
That is because finally the rest of Big Jobs are completed, thanks to You & Josh 1GT mainly, so thanks Brother.
In fact it has been so long that time nears for Full Timing Belt studies.
My 06 Tundra is purring but after hitting 101K it is of course prudent to plan for preventative at 125-130K.
You are a Refreshing Blast to learn from, as always.
Rock On, Timmy The Tool Man!
ps-I can relate to the Prostrate AND Stallion coolant jokes!
Don't worry, we have more content coming. The next one we plan on doing for the 2UZ is the Starter Replacement and then most likely a Valve Cover Gasket Replacement and Valve Adjustment .
amazing concise video. I am doing this DIY soon to my 2005 Gx470. how do you keep track of all the bolts and where it all goes back??
where is the best place to buy all the new parts??? Toyota ??
Bag your bolts and nuts for each part into separate zip lock bags and label them with a black sharpie. Lay them in the order you removed them from the engine. When you're ready to put the engine back together, grab the bags in reverse order, and you'll have a logical sequence. We provide part numbers and links in the video description. You can buy from the links we provide or shop around. Going straight up to the parts counter at your local Toyota or Lexus dealer will be your most expensive option. Buying online will save you money.
I think MAYBE the school of thought is that by putting it at TDC and back 50° that it's bringing the pistons down in the hole I would imagine enough to cause ALL the pistons to be far down enough to not allow a interference situation.
@HDDREAMIN Maybe that's the reason, but the cams end up jumping on you in that position, which isn't a huge issue, but they will jump.
@@TimmyTheToolman I can verify the Cam DO jump at that point
Honestly I have a 2007 and though my service manuals do say what your saying I never have lined up with the T but instead I have lined up the notches with divits and never gave hadan issue with jump.
Interesting. I do know at the T position, people have reported they aren't getting any jumping of the cams.
I jinxed myself! Left a 2008 sit after timing belt removal and had tye right bank move 25° when I woke up this morning. Hopefully I'm good. I can tell you if I have to replace 1 head im replacing both with some porting and better cams. Only time will tell. The VVTI is the interesting variable. Woukd this be an interference motor without VVTI? I often wonder
@@HDDREAMIN Any 2UZ-FE engine is an interference engine. You didn't bend a valve even if a valve stuck a piston head. I believe the only way a valve gets bent is when the timing belt breaks with the engine running. The force from the valve springs releasing energy isn't enough to damage a valve. It's not that much force.
Hey Tim! Good video. I have a 09 sequoia 4.7 code P0016 comes and goes. Drives good, no issues. I am at 240k and owned it the last 60k miles. Is that a sign that I should replace the timing belt? Could that be the problem? No history or tag if it has ever been done.
It could be caused by many things. But, regardless of the code you're getting, if you don't know if the timing belt has ever been changed, you should take off one of the camshaft covers and inspect the belt. If that belt breaks, you'll need major engine work. It's an interference engine, and the valves can slam into the pistons if the belt breaks.
I have a 2005 tundra. 150k. no belt change yet.
will this video be helpful and similar to my 2005?
Yes it will because you have the same engine.
Thank you for sharing I’m thinking about doing this on my own to save $$$$ I’ve change timing belt with my old man for a 98 Subaru 2.5 legacy. Now, I own 2006 land cruiser and it’s time to change timing belt and my question is, how long did it take you change timing belt? Thank you, god bless and continue your effort for sharing great info
This type of question comes up a lot and we give people the same response. We are filming and that changes the time it takes to do a job. I cannot give you an accurate time because of that and because everyone works at different speeds. I suggest you give yourself a full day, at least 8 hours so you're not in a rush and you take your time and do it properly. The worst thing you can do when doing a job like this is put an unrealistic time frame on this and then rush through it. It's not a race. Do it slow and methodically and you'll be successful. Hope the job goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
Great info, that FSM confused the hell outta me on a 2005 SC430
Glad our video could de-mystify things for you. The manual can be a bit confusing a times.
@@TimmyTheToolman
After more research for the 3uz-fe everything in the FSM and also the Aisin TKT-021 instructions is saying to go 50BTDC then pulling the belt....hopefully it will work but I am tempted to just go to the Ts instead
@@axispowerdiesel Yeah, it didn't work for us. As soon as I removed the belt off one of the cam pulleys, it jumped. The other one jumped as well. When you get ready to lift the belt off the pulleys, do yourself a favor and put a ratchet and socket on the cam bolt, so it does want to jump, you can ease it down to it's resting spot. Then just go about the job and turn the cams back to TDC when it's time to get the new belt on.
Fair to say if your cam seals aren't leaking then to just say some prays and send it?
Great video. Detailed on some of the intricacies of doing the job the first time other videos don't detail.
Yeah, that was our decision. It's quite a bit more work to completely remove the camshafts. If they aren't leaking, just leave them alone. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in the series.
I love this. I have a 2002 Lexus SC430 with what sounds like similar engine but mine is 4.3L V8 and is called 3UZ-FE - what are the differences that I should be concerned about if any? Thanks
Sorry Shawn. Wish I could help, but I don't know the differences because I've never worked on the 4.3 Liter V8.
Best on youtube, thanks again!
Thanks for the very nice compliment. We appreciate it!
How do you get that clip out 28:45
Please help I’ve been struggling on that little clip for hours
I talked about how I did it. You have to come in with a small screwdriver under the clip to lift up the tab on the electrical connector while simultaneously pulling on the clip to slide it free of the connector.
great detail and flow!
Thanks Luis. We're glad you like it.
Tim, any suggestions on connector & cabling replacement/repair resources? I need to replace my alternator cables as they are brittle and are “stiff” from heat. Thanks for doing these videos.
I know with 3rd Gen 4runners, the starter/battery/alternator harness is separate from the main engine harness. If that's the case with vehicles with the 2UZ-FE engine, you could remove it, figure out the gauge wires and make up a new one. But, I don't know if that's really necessary. The copper strands are probably fine. It might be more work than it's worth. From my experience, it's the actual plastic connectors that get brittle and then break when you try to remove them.
Was tge radiator bard .why you replaced it ??
The radiator was not bad. It was replaced as preventative maintenance. You could wait until the radiator springs a leak, but then you're stranded wherever that happens, and it could potentially be in an area not too convenient, like when you're on a road trip hundreds of miles from home.
Nice video Tim. Good job 👍
Thanks!
I have two that need this done.
Well, now you'll have videos showing you how to get it done. Part 2 will be coming out pretty soon.
What is the correct timing position marks for a 2004 4runner Limited 4x4 V8? I've noticed a few different answers.
The correct timing position so the cams don't jump when you take off the timing belt or the correct position so the engine is timed right and runs smoothly?
I've done timing belt job on my 93 300zx TT, also own an 08 GX470, I can confidently say the job on GX is alot more involved. Geez toyota!
Yeah, it's fairly involved for sure.
OMG this isa job for superman. I can hardly see a way that they could make a timing belt change any more difficult. I have changed belts on three different vehicles and I believe I could change all of them, and get them right, in the time it takes to do this one. And not sure if I got it right. Easily
It's not hard, but it's a lot of steps. If I can do it, so can you.
Thank you Timmy! May I ask where I can find the part number of the black clip at 28:35? Or is there a universal name for that kind of clips? I broken mine when i did this job on my 2006 sc430 😅
You're very welcome. I don't know the part number for that clip or what it's official name is. Your best bet is visiting a dealer and see if they can order it for you.
If you removed the spark plugs before doing this job, would the shift from the cams be prevented when removing the timing belt?
No, it wouldn't but it might help. The cams jumping is mainly from the valve springs.
Great vid, helped a lot!
Glad it helped! Thanks for commenting.
Thanks!!
You're welcome Lance!
I was told the Non-VVT V8 was a non-interference motor. My 2003 4RUnner belt broke in the driveway as soon as I started the motor. How do I setup the cam and verify I am TDC and not 180 off? Also, can I dry start after installing the belt without reassembly to test the engine before reassembly? thank you for this detailed video
Really? To my understanding, all 2UZ-FE engines are interference engines.
The way you tell you're not off 180 degrees is by the timing marks. There's timing marks for the cam pulleys and timing marks for the crankshaft.
You don't need to start the engine to verify the timing is correct. You just rotate the engine two full revolutions to confirm you've got it right.
You better cross your fingers and pray to the Engine Gods you didn't bend some valves, because your engine, according to my research is an interference engine. I did just read something on IH8Mud that some guys have found that broken timing belts on the non-VVT engines were less likely to be damaged from a broken timing belt.
So, Good Luck! I hope it turns out well for you. Comment back and let me know how it turned out.
@@TimmyTheToolman we just finished the timing belt replacement and found out my timing belt did not break. The tensioner on the timing belt was bad and allowed the timing belt to slip and it jumped about four or five notches and would not start because it was out of time. It did not damage the valves at all. We installed a new belt, water pump, and tensioner and pulleys. It is running great again. This 4Runner is not a VVT. Thank you for your help.
@jakemir Thanks for sharing your good news. I'm glad our video helped you out.
Hey man would it be beneficial to blow away all the dirt and debris out the area before reinstalling everything?
Or, use a vacuum to suck it out. Less chance of blowing debris where you don't want it.
Good job fren
Thanks
What was the tools you used for the oil pump seal removal and install please
We never removed the oil pump in this video.
I have replace a v6 3.3 l engine. Manual said 60 degree btdc, but the front cam will jump to tdc.
Gotcha. Sounds like more bad info from the Toyota Techs.
How did you get off the top bolt/nut of the air conditioner unit?
There’s not a lot of space
I cover how I removed in the video. I accessed it with a long wobble extension and a socket with a built in swivel.
Hi!sir Tim, where is your shop? You’re amazing the way how your explain very detail. One of a kind 👍🏾😀
Hi Enrique, we don't own a shop. Most of the jobs are filmed at my home in San Jose, California. We aren't mechanics for hire. We make DIY videos to help people out.
it was a great help thank u so much
Good to hear. You're very welcome.
If after you line up TDC and then turn the crank (CW)so that the cam gear timing mark is aligned with the T mark, do the arrows (L,R) printed on the new timing belt line up with the T marks or do you rotate the crank back ccw until the cam gear timing is aligned with with the "I" mark and then install the printed arrows on the new timing belt with the "I" mark as the reference. Its a 2003 4runner 2uz-fe non-vvti. Thanks....
Before putting the new belt on, rotate the cams CCW from the "T" marks and back to TDC, the "I" marks. The timing marks on the belt need to be lined up with the "I".
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok, thanks, this is really confusing. I've done a v6 Camry TB and a miata TB, both straight forward. I ran across this video from a toyota master tech and was totally thrown for a loop: ua-cam.com/video/jugCoHjG1_8/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ShopTimeWithDrew
I appreciate all the effort you put in making these videos...again thanks!
@@Rudy7408 I looked at that video and I can see why you got confused.
Prepping for this job and have one point I'd like to confirm w/ you guys or the community: Can anyone confirm which year the VVT began in Sequoia and how to check prior to starting the job? I have a model-year 2004 Sequoia and want to be prepped for the correct camshaft seal. Rock Auto is showing the non-VVT seals for the 2004 Sequoia, then in 2005 has the different parts listed for models "To 10/31/2004" and "From 11/01/2004." How does one confirm their engine's build date for this purpose? Thank you Timmy and Sean for your continued efforts for the Toyota owners community!
I don't know exactly what year the VVT started. You could simply remove one of the plastic cam covers to find out. If you have VVT, your cam pulleys will look the same as what we show in this video. If you don't have VVT, the cam pulley will look like a simple pulley. Replacing the camshaft seals on a non-VVT would be easy. Doing it on an engine with VVT is a lot more work because the camshafts need to be removed. Good luck with the job.
Non-VVT-i and Electronic Throttle Control Vehicles
2002-2004 Lexus GX 470
1998-2005 Lexus LX 470
1998-2005 Toyota Land Cruiser
2002-2004 Toyota 4Runner
1999-2004 Toyota Tundra
2000-2004 Toyota Sequoia
VVT-i and Electronic Throttle Control Vehicles
2004-2009 Lexus GX 470
2005-2007 Lexus LX 470
2005-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser
2005-2009 Toyota 4Runner
2005-2009 Toyota Tundra
2004-2009 Toyota Sequoia
Thanks for the comprehensive list! It will be useful for those looking to do this job. My model year 2004 was a non-VVT, but it appears some 2004s do have the VVT, later in their production run. Completed this job in December and riding smoothly since (:
was the radiator bad? or just preventative to replace?
Just preventative maintenance.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for your reply!! do you recommend to replace it? mine 2005 tundra, 153k seems to have No problem with radiator. Also at about 47mins... after belt it removed, if the water pump was not being replaced then no need to go further with belt replacement job?
after belt removed, new belt could be put on then?
and is it worth it to purchase the factory manual?
thank Sooo much!!!!
@@kat4animals004 It would be a mistake to not replace the water pump while you're in there. It's a lot of labor to get back in there if the water pump has issues.
You can't buy the physical factory service manual for your truck. At some point, Toyota stopped making the books and put all the information online. You can buy subscriptions to access a site called Toyota Tech Info. When I need to get information on a job I'm doing, I buy a 2-day subscription for $20 and download all the information I need in a PDF format. The caveat to using the Tech Info site is you need a Windows operating system. The minimum system requirements are listed in a link at the bottom of this page. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3D3-s2SIlaB2Z1HeIuWcpcY2K9x4Q&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
DId you guys remove the spark plugs before you turned the motor over?
No, we didn't.
You don't need a deep socket for stud bolts, you can use box end ratcheting wrench. Never use stud extractor socket what you saw with those mechanics while replacing engine on your old 4runner because it stripped all the threads on one of my car's water pump and then I had to wait for a week to get another in mail from the dealership.
Well yeah, you're right. You don't need a deep socket to remove the stud bolts. If you wanted, you could use an open end wrench too and maybe even a crescent wrench if that's all you had. They would all work. There's choices. The deep socket was the obvious choice for me because I was utilizing my small impact gun on most of the fasteners.
Just because you had a bad experience using a stud extractor doesn't mean they should "Never" be used by anyone. I'm pretty confident mechanics use them with success all the time. Sure, if you detect that the stud is locked in there and the tool is starting to spin on the threads, you stop and try another means like the double nut technique. The only way I can see that the threads would be damaged beyond repair is if you just kept grinding and grinding that extractor tool over the threads and mangled them. If I detected the extractor wasn't turning the stud, I would stop, clean up the threads if needed with a thread restorer chaser and then go to the double nut technique. But, if the stud starts to back out at the first application of torque, the tool worked as intended and it just made your removal of the stud a lot easier.
Is the GX you guys did VVTI or not? I have the 04 V8 4Runner (without VVTI) and don't remember having the cam pulley jumping problem when I did this job. That could be an indication that VVTI could have an influence on the cam pulley jump.
Yes, this 2008 GX 470 has variable valve timing. You could be right.
I'm in the middle of doing this job on a 2007 Sequoia. The information provided with the Aisin timing belt kit (Aisin P/N: TKT-001) has specific recommendations for each model year range. For the 2005-2008 Sequoia and Tundra, engine 2UZ-FE, the instructions state to move the crankshaft to 50° PAST TDC, lining up the crankshaft pulley mark with the center of the timing belt idler pulley bolt on the driver side of the engine. You must slip the crankshaft pulley back onto the crankshaft to do this alignment. There are too many detailed instructions for this step in the instructions to post them all here.
We list the various instructions for the different models and years in a pinned comment (1st comment you see). But, we followed exactly what the manual said and the cams still jumped on us. We believe lining up the cam timing marks with the "T" is maybe the right position to use and all these instructions saying a certain degree before or after TDC don't necessarily work.
I'll be trying the 50° advance tomorrow, so I'll report back on how that worked on this particular engine version. Correction: The Aisin instructions for the GX 470 2005-2009 do indicate a clocking of 50° BEFORE TDC. Their graphic is slightly ambiguous as they show the crankshaft position with a double- ended arrow. I have 25 years as an engine lubrication specialist with a major oil company and will be reaching out to Toyota through my contacts to confirm these procedures.
@@rajah155 Ok, good luck with the job. I'm curious to see how it goes for you. A piece of advice is to have a ratchet and socket on the cam bolt when you start to remove the belt from the cam pulleys. If the cam starts to jump, you can ease it to it's resting spot gently with the ratchet.
@@rajah155 How did this go? did you try the 50* advance? Did the cams jump?
The 50° mark was present on the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley cover. Positioning the timing mark to that index put the cam gears timing marks exactly at the ‘T’ mark on each cam gear shroud. Removing the tensioner, then slowly removing the timing belt, there was zero tendency for the cam gears to have any valve spring driven rotation. Installing the new belt went easily from there. This was on a 2007 SRS model Sequoia, and followed the instructions provided with the Aisin timing belt/water pump kit.
Can this job be done on a inclined driveway? Or does it need to be level since the coolant is gong to be drained?
We did it on an inclined driveway, so yes, it can be done. What we noticed is lots of coolant was still in the system even after the radiator was drained and removed. After disconnecting the the oil cooler hose, LOTS of coolant came pouring out of the oil cooler. So, do yourself a favor and get a bucket under the direction of the oil cooler fitting when you disconnect that hose. If you watched the video, you saw how much coolant came out.
Any tip to get the fan assembly off? I have all 4 nuts removed and just can't seem to pry it off without risking damaging it.
You just have to work at it Mark. The fan can get stuck onto those studs. By alternating pulling on opposing sides, you'll eventually get it to budge. Just be careful once you get it moving that you don't smash it into the radiator by pulling too hard.
@@TimmyTheToolman I finally got it. It was pretty stuck on there. Thank you for the reply.
@@markmurrell1894 You're welcome Mark. Good luck with the rest of the job.