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Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated)
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
We had an engine out of the truck this week so I thought I'd take the opportunity to film an updated timing belt video. It's a bit easier to see everything in this one. I'll link the original videos in the info.
For parts and tools used see our website. www.otramm.com...
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This is the best illustration EVER on the entire web. I spent months watching video after video and web sites, man thank you a billion times for making this video.
I watched this looking for a trick and you didn't disappoint. Knowing the best way to deal with the A/C compressor was to leave that rear bolt in was a time saver, I appreciate it.
Thanks for convincing me not to tackle this myself. Looks like a pain even with the engine on a stand! Very good step by step so appreciate your effort.
Best land cruiser maintenance & tips videos on all of UA-cam! Keep up the amazing work and thank you.
Hey man, THANKS for this video! I did my first timing belt job, and I couldn't have done it without your 3-part video series. Great video, very thorough, showed me everything I needed to know to do the job. You're clearly an excellent mechanic!
Thanks Ryan, another fantastic how to video. This one really clears up a couple of things for me (reason to advance timing to 50° ATDC and the fan mount bolts). Again....you explain things very well and give us reasons for the things you do as well as providing helpful tips. We are so appreciative of the time you take to make these videos. Excellent lighting and video quality as well. My hat is off to you.
Used these 3 videos today to tackle this job with my 15 year old and 14 year old sons. Took our time. Followed the videos. Used the aisan kit. Honestly it's not hard. Just a lot of little steps. Follow these videos and everything goes smooth. Thank you for posting these. Very helpful.
Fantastic in depth instructional video, one of the BEST I’ve seen!
Backyard mechanic a long time and think anyone could change the timing belt following your instruction👌😘......1st class!
Wanted to say thanks. I was able to do this job on my own without any issues with the step by step videos. It saved me around $500.
Awesome, glad the videos were helpful!
Not worth it. Id glady pay the 1,000 for this job
I’d gladly pay $1,000 too, but the dealer quoted $2,000 🥴
Can't thank you enough for making this series of videos. My 2003 4 runner broke the belt on the highway, and I thought it might be done for. I followed these videos exactly, and it started on the first try and runs perfect! Thanks again for taking the time to make this video!!
Awesome, glad they helped!!!
Prior to the timing belt failure, did you notice any distinct or unusual noises from the engine?
@@tannergrubb I did. It felt like a miss in the timing. I took it to a mechanic, and he thought timing as well. We pulled all the plug wires and searched for arcing, but couldnt find anything. Changed the wire for one of the cylinders, as the code we were getting was a miss in that cylider, but it didnt correct anything. I should have guessed it was the belt, but didnt occur to me at that time. Now makes perfect sense. There was no noise, just the occasional bump during acceleration.
@@tannergrubb Just a loud KA-BOOM kinda sound and smoke, lot's of smoke.
You were lucky! Interference engines are unforgiving!!!
Perfect video. I wouldn't have been able to do the water pump job without it. Be careful reusing old bolts on top of the fan bracket. I had the torque wrench set 3lbs to high and snapped one of the upper bolts on the fan bracket off. That basically means redoing the whole job but I decided to drive it until it leaks. So far so good....
hey man I'm currently doing this job. I cannot for the life of me get the crankshaft bolt off. help ,e plz
My goodness why didn't these things have a timing chan ? It's like taking apart a giant micro chip. Great vid by the way dude
Great videos! Seeing the process with the engine out was extra easy to follow along. Also thank you for the torque settings along the way (mostly on the reassembly video) Very helpful, thank you !
Excellent video.
I watched the old originals with the audio/visual issues you had mentioned, I didn't comment but it did have me cussing at you! :-)
I take it all back! lol
Thank you so much for redoing the video, it is the best one on the net ;-) The fact that you include torque specs makes it simply invaluable.
Thanks OTRAMM, I owe you one. This is probably the best walk through guide out there. Took me 16 hours to do, spent a lot of time on that AC compressor bolt and getting my fan off.
I used a peice of wood the held the fan pulley still then the nuts came off easy. The compress had problems too and til I finally got around to loosening the bolt in rear of compressor.
See you in February 👍
Great video and very hard engine to work on so it needs skilled man like OTRAMM ,THANKS A LOT 👍.
Thanks so much for your video's. I did a water pump and timing belt replacement. I look forward to to your videos on replacing the gas pump, and starter for the 2000 Tundra. Thanks again.
Excellent job. I just tore down my daughters 2001 Toyota Sequoia. Going to part 2 for the replacement.
Can’t get any better than this! Great job and keep them coming
You inspere me. You are one hell of a good mechanic I’ve learned alot because of this video and recently did everything to my xsp tundra 2006 thank you 🙏🏻 and blessings brother
Nice! I'm not sure I want to tackle this in my 2000. But this helps.
Thank you for this video! It's way, way better than the part1 when you had camera on your head! Thanks again!
Awesome video 👍🏻 So incredibly helpful! Thank you
Prepping to do this myself in the next week or so.
Great video, one of my first project of 2019 will be this, already got the parts thru Amazon using your web page, thanks
Awesome video brother! Much easier to see and understand the removal and timing settings! Thanks!
This is the best video by far!! Thank you young man!
12:30 good tip DONT NOT REMOVE save yourself a headache!
Very detailed and helpful. Thank you
Boy you're some talent mate! Excellent video! Stay safe
Best video I have ever seen
Awesome, thanks!!
I learned the hard way to go ahead and replace the fan bracket when getting a new timing belt. It's not that expensive.
Yeah, we've started adding it to all our estimates.
awesome resource bloke I'm halfway through the job and wish I'd watched this first 😁
great job👍
Man I really appreciate these videos!!! Just about finished with mine
You are awesome! i like the way ypu showed it. thank you so much.
Really appreciate the videos, and link to OEM parts on Amazon. This will really help when I replace mine this summer. I look forward to your other 100 series videos. Subbed
The first video wasn't bad, but this one is amazing. Thanks for the help. I think every Toyota manual should say "Just remove the engine", that looks so much easier.
I had to pull the oil pump on my LX470 to get the lower AC bolt. No combination of ratchet and extension would let me get in there. Thankfully, I didn't need to loosen the rear bolt. I have no idea how I'd reach that.
I was struggling trying to figure out how to take that fan bracket off really getting frustrated hopefully I can locate those 2 bolts now! Thanks
Best timing belt video on you tube. Excellent work guys.
Did this job by myself watching your step by step video. It was the best did the complete front of my motor. 300,000 miles and still going
Awesome, glad to hear the videos were useful!
I thought the other video with the headcam was really good, particularly the discussion and explanations. This is really above and beyond so thank you for again taking the time to do this for us DIY owners. If you can do a cam seal video on the VVTi 4.7 tell me where to send the check and you'll have a steak dinner on me!
I've got to do cam and crank seals when I do part two of this video. I buttoned up the oil leak on the bottom end the other day. I just need to find a bit of quite time in the shop to film part two. Hopefully I'll have it done this weekend. There's a Patreon link down in the description for folks that want to help support the channel. Ordering parts through the links on our website helps out as well. Thanks!!
I have the 4.7 engine on a 2006. Now I understand why the dealer recommends replacing the water pump while doing the timing belt. Its in there.
I never have an issue taking things apart. Putting it back is another story.
Best video, thank you SO much - you really enlightened the subject 🙏🙏
Best video yet I’ve watched great video my friend
Very nice explanation and nice video! This helps alot!
Here are the time stamps for the video above. I really thank Otram for making this video.
Full instructions can be seen here - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eWefvjUPPUlQPfpIOQ1JHir8111iMPO0/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118253069347740492478&rtpof=true&sd=true
1. Remove Fan ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
2. Fan Brackets
3. Serpentine Belt ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
- Remove Fan bracket Pully off ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
4. Remove coolant pipe with Hose tubes with attached from water pump to Oil housing/filter ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
5. Thermostat Housing ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
6. Top Water outlet nuts - Then wiggle/twist it out cause it maybe stuck ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
7. Remove Drive belt Idler pulley
8. Left Cam plastic cover ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
9. Power steering pump - No need to take it out, just remove 3 bolts and Swing it to the side ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
10. Alternator - Disconnect negative terminal of battery 1st - Slide it off & Swing it to the side as well ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
11. Upper left/middle plastic cover ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
12. Tensioner - slides off studs ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
13. unplug Cam Position sensor - Right side and remove rubber grommit ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
14. Right Cam Gear plastic cover with cam position sensor wire fishing ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
"15. Remove Fan bracket -
Remove AC comp Side bolts in front
- 2x14mm 4in Top and bottom front bolts (see pics)
Loosen back bolt on AC to pivot it enough to remove fan bracket" "ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html (Ac bolt locations)
ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html (Back bolt location - DO NOT TAKE IT OUT - Just loosen it)+
ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html (top front bolt location)"
16. - Loosen AC compressor ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
17. HERE YOU ALIGN THE TDC (Top Dead center) ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
18. Remove Crankshaft pulley ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
19. Remove camshaft timing plastic cover ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
20. Remove timing sensor guide plate ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
21. Removing Plastic Triangle ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
22. Remove the Hydraulic timing belt tensioner ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
24. Remove Timing belt off ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
25. Remove Idler pully #2 (Red one) ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
26. Remove Tensioner Idler Pully #1 black - above timing belt tensioner ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
27. Slide the Timing belt pully off ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
28. Remove Cam Sensor trigger ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
29. Remove Water Pump - need to twist/wiggle it out at times ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html
Hi there,
Thanks a lot for such a detailed videos.
Quick question.
Is the water pump impeller made out of plastic?
Thanks
Yep, they're plastic. I've never seen an impeller fail on one though.
@@OTRAMM Much OBLIGED
Very informative and clear
"Whoever was in here last apparently did not own a torque wrench" LOL!
Thank you, and I much appreciate your explicit instruction videos on the timing belt replacement. It was my first time replacing a timing belt on my 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I followed your part 1 on removing parts, then part #3, putting parts back and torque specs.
I would like to thank this UA-cam content creator ( ua-cam.com/video/M5qzZZO_SE8/v-deo.html ) for tips on aligning the timing belt top pulleys to the "T" after the top dead center and then removing the old timing belt; I ignored the Toyota's manual's confusing instruction on rotating the crank 50 degrees after top dead center. The top timing pulleys did not jerk.
And also, thanks to this UA-cam content creator (ua-cam.com/video/9M3hFSiKs_U/v-deo.html ) for removing the other parts before following your part 1 video. For anyone curious, my sequoia top pulleys did not look like those in the video. Mine have covers.
It was a miracle. It was the first time my 2005 Toyota Sequoia ever got the timing belt replaced after 105k miles and 17 years. I followed the advice of a DIY mechanic who told me not to replace it before 100k. The factory timing belt still appeared to me it was in good condition. Please do not do what I did; follow the manufacturer suggested maintenance schedules.
While I sure can do this job I’d rather pay Toyota professional to do it. Tax refund will be well spent. Thanks for sharing!
Great video thanks
most excellent video....thank you so much and much appreciated.......great job.....
Ive put water pumps in 77 grand prix 73 455 rocket but after watching this video I said being I did those jobs 30 years ago and they were easy I'm taking it to a mechanic.i know I could do this if it was summer time.but if rather let a pro do it because water pumps I put in too an hour this seems like it would take me a day or 2
First time around it's probably a days work. After a few dozen it's a few hours. It's not a terrible job.
I completely remove the AC before I saw this video. Now I'm trying to reinstall the AC 😅 yeah I'm having a hell of a time.
Thanks very much Mr ,very helpful
Thanks mate
Oh, so that’s how the mouse got in the timing cover!
I don’t understand why you move the crank pulley up a bit pointed toward the bearing? Is this so you can see the key line is lined up in the belt correctly too?
Great video series. It was very helpful when I replaced my belts several years ago. Unfortunately, being a novice mechanic, I may have done a poor job with the seals. I'm going to have to go back in to find the leak, which is probably the crank seal or the oil pump. Can the oil pump and/or seal be replaced by lifting the engine a few inches on a 2WD Tundra? I don't have the room or the resources to remove the engine but I can lift it a bit if it would work.
I've never tried doing it in the vehicle. I've heard it's possible, but I don't know for sure. Getting the oil pans clean enough to seal will be the tricky part with oil dripping down
@@OTRAMM Thanks so much for the reply. That's a good point regarding the dripping. I suppose I'll just have to be patient. Once again I'll be the fool who rushes in where angels fear to tread. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thank you!
Great video OTRAMM. As always, very informative. One question I have is, the Haynes manual for my '04 Sequoia says to set engine to TDC (as you also shown) before removing timing belt. I've seen other comments about using the 'T' mark instead, which supposed to be the 'Timing Service Position' Is this correct? What does the 'T' mark on the cam gear mean? Am going with the manual anyway but I was curious. Thank you.
The t mark seems to line up with some years of timing belt but not all of them. Follow the manual for your year. I'd trust the manual that comes with an Aisin belt over the Haynes if you have both.
Great video! thanks for the info. Hey you mentioned parts list on your website- would like to view your product list and purchase items but the link directs to your website with another one of your you tube videos with no list. Any way to view the list another way? Thanks!
Unfortunately, when we switched website providers last year all the list pages were lost. Sorry.
Any info about 50° on my 2004 4Runner 4.7 if it is before or after dead center I'm so confused sorry for the dumb question thanks
I’m about to replace the timing belt & WP on my 2003 Tundra. While I’m in there are there other fixes I should do while in there. Like the 3 seals, new pulleys or tensioners. Thanks brother.
Thanks brother...a great video...
shoot it's now 6/3/21 and my local dealer wanted $1600 plus new hoses and thermostat for a total out the door price of $1744.33
We need a better view of the front of the engine.... LOL Great video thanks for making. This does make me question a few things as a potential new 4runner V8 owner which is why I'm doing my homework BEFORE I buy. After watching you get to the timing belt with all the room in the world, how difficult is it to get to the other serviceable parts of the engine as in Alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump and water pump when in the car? Or is it a case of you have to strip the engine to get to it all? I've had V8's and V12's that appeared had more accessible parts. Thanks in advance
Access to the power steering pump and AC compressor are decent. The alternator is a bit buried but not too terrible. I can count on one hand the alternators I've had to do so there's that as well.
I came here looking to see if I could out where the camshaft position sensor is located
Thank you so much, man
The 50 degree mark is on the casting behind the crank pulley not the belt tensioner.
It depends on the model, you've got to look it up for each year in the manual. On this one it says to align the timing mark with the center line of the idler pulley.
Super good tutorial!!
So..I have to remove my engine to replace the oil pump bracket?
The hole for lower alternator screw is attached to the oil pump and it broke off in the bracket. I ordered a new oil pump but after hearing you say dropping the oil pan to get the job done requires engine removal I feel like I just got kicked in the gut
It may be possible to do it in the truck but I don't see how. The oil pans have to come off to get the pump off. You'd have to lift the engine up pretty high to get enough clearance.
just bought a 2004 sequoia for $4,000, has 154,000 miles. Won't be getting the timing belt replaced, just leave it and hope for the best, far too big of a job for me to attempt and there is no way I can afford to pay a mechanic!
Not good move, you are risking your entire engine, this is not that bad, I am 71 and completed this without a hitch. The recommended change is 90,000 miles so you are really in the danger zone
@@frankhorton7329 I have since decided to get it done. Bought the Aisin TB/water pump kit from Amazon for $170, a local mechanic has agreed to do the work for $300, downside he is busy until the end of September so hoping it holds up until then. It is something I could probably do myself, but it would take me at least a day (that is barring any disasters), plus I would need to buy or rent the specialized tools so on this occasion I prefer to leave it to an expert!
I had to reinstall my timing belt because it wasn’t timed properly when I took it apart i removed the tensioner before turning the crank and the belt slipped. Should I reinstall the tensioner to turn the crank or is that too late and it’s more out of time? How can I get everything timed properly with the belt off?
Thank you
Great video. Thank you.
❤️❤️❤️
This is a great video series for the 100 Series owners. Thank you.
I am avid mechanic but have not had to do a timing belt/water pump job on a 2UZ yet. For the 06/07 VVTi, is the method of aligning the crank pulley and cam pulleys the same? I realize that you stated the location of the alignment is different depending on the model year and I am still in the process of doing my research but figured I’d ask now. Thanks
It's mostly the same procedure. The angle you set the crank to will probably be different. The factory manual and the guide that comes with Aisin timing belt kits show the proper angle.
I used this video as a guide when I did the timing belt service on the 1UZ-FE engine that is in my Toyota Epic boat. It has VVTi and the factory service manual stated to set the engine to 50 degrees past TDC - that will set the timing mark on the cam pulleys to the "T" marks on the heads. This video is awesome and the engine has been running like a top for years after the new timing belt was installed, so I think this is correct.
Great vid, but after following step by step, when radiator almost full, fluid came pouring out everywhere underneath. Obviously get the joy of tearing back down, but where should i look? Lubed o ring and seemed to slide in easily? Other places??? Any advice?
The o-rings would be the first places I'd look. I'd also make sure that the gasket surface on the block was spotless. I've seen folks miss old gasket around the studs and it cause a leak.
What year model was this 4.7? Is there any difference in this job with the VVT version of the 2UZ?
I don't remember what year it was. It's mostly the same as vvt-i. You won't be doing cam seals and the rotation where the belt is removed is different.
Chilton manual says an 01 is set at the 0 mark. 05 and 06 is 50° forward. Where did you read an 01 is 50° forward?
Toyota tech info.
Great great video Otramm! My FSM said to go 50 degrees counter clockwise from TDC to remove the TB, the cams moved a lot when I took them off. Wish I had just done what you did! I have a 2004 GX 470. I might move everything to where there’s no tension on the cams. Like 50 deg clockwise of TDC. What does everyone think?
The degree of rotation changes by year.
@@OTRAMM Are you willing to say what it is for a 2006 4.7? I'll dance at your next wedding if you do.
Where is the link to the parts list that you mentioned at the end of the video?
I don’t see it in your description.
It went away a couple website changes ago.
@@OTRAMM ah, ok.
So I see in other videos where people replace a lot of the parts with new ones , for example , the crank bolt, thermostat, fan clutch bracket, all the pulleys, radiator, hoses, and even the clamps. I noticed you didn’t do all of them (no criticism!)
But can you help us understand why or when we should replace those items? After all, we have to pull them off for this job.
A lot of Internet people take the while you're in there mentality way too far replacing things for no reason. Like, there's no reason to ever replace the crank bolt unless it was somehow damaged. The videos are filmed on vehicles we're repairing at the shop. With customers paying the bill we can't just throw everything possible at it. That said in the years since those videos were made we have seen some parts start failing more often and include those now as well. We do the timing belt, water pump, all the timing belt idler pulleys, the timing belt tensioner, the fan bracket, serpentine belt tensioner, and the thermostat and heater tees as the standard job now that everything is several years older.
@@OTRAMM Excellent reply. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Hi do you have any videos showing how to pull the cylinder head or replacing the head gasket on a 2006 toyota sequoia 4.7?
I don't. We haven't had to do one get. Sorry.
Hi great video I saw the question about where to line up the marks on the cams but I’m still confused.. where can I find the information that would tell me? I have a 2001 Tundra 4.7l and now I’ve heard of thee different positions and don’t want to damage anything. My manual says nothing about the timing belt. Any info will help thanks!
The Aisin timing belt kits come with instructions that show the marks. Otherwise you'd need the factory service manual.
At 17:28 I’m looking for that tool. Can’t find it on the website. Crank holding tool.
And how do I find out about the top dead center revolutions for my vehicle? Where is that info?
I have a 02
Fantastic videos, thank you! I purchased a timing belt kit a while back but it’s been sitting in my garage while I built up the courage to tackle this job. Using your parts link it turns out I bought the kit in March (of 2017!). Now I’m eager to give it a go but thinking I might replace hoses, belt tensioner and serpentine belt... Anything else I should consider replacing? (2000 with 170k). Already replaced starter (twice), alternator and coils. Thanks!
You might consider changing the fan pulley bracket. The serpentine belt and tensioner couldn't hurt. Make sure you do the heater tees.
I am in the exact same boat. I have all of the parts in the garage since 2017 as well, and I just keep making excuses as to why I cannot get to it. Now I think the time has come to gather my courage and jump in. I have a 2007 4Runner that just turned 180K, and I think the time is now!! Thanks to OTRAMM for the great video and I hope your install went well.
@@MajorSporto worst can happen is either it blows and you can get new truck, or either it blows again and take it to shop and fix.
Was this the same engine like the V8 4.7 2003 4Runners?
Yep, same engine. The 4Runner is a bit easier since there's more room to work.
Awesome video. I am going to be pulling the motor from my 2002 tundra next month to do this and some other things. My question is, did you pull the motor with the transmission or did you leave the transmission in the truck? I'm not sure what I am going to do yet. Thanks.
We left the transmission in on this one. Now that we have a gantry crane we usually pull the whole drivetrain. No need to pull the motor for just timing belt though. We were doing the oil pump as well so pulled it for that.
@@OTRAMM cool. I am going to be doing more than a timing belt. I want to replace all the gaskets. Have the heads checked and put in a new oil pump. As well as long tube headers. I figure it will be easier to pull the motor to do what I want.
23:05 Any other indicators to determine if it’s an oil pump leak vs a crank shaft seal? Currently changing a timing belt and noticed grease / gunk around the crank seal and about the oil pump cover.
I've only seen the oil pump leak once. There was a wet trail coming out the top of the oil pump to block seal. The front seal will be wet just under the seal but not up on the block from what we've seen.
Cheers appreciate
Hi is 4.7 torque spec all the same I have 04 tundra thanks
I have a 2006 Lexus lx470, what position do I set the timing before I remove belt? You mention that there are different instructions for specific years, please help, thanks
You need a manual for the specifics. If you get an Aisin timing belt kit it comes with a decent guide.
Thanks for the Step by step process, my confusion lies in the fact you say this is an 01, and according to your book you turn the Crankshaft 50 degrees past TDC. In my book it says you do this only with 05 models and 50 degrees back the other direction for 06 models. Another youtube video the mechanic says the from 00 to 04 you place the crankshaft on TDC. That 2005 to 2008 you advance 50 degrees. Can you please clear up this confusion for me. Again thanks, the book is confusion and I am a very visual learner.
You're right, I also noticed this mistake, perhaps this year specifically calls for 50⁰ forward? Maybe he can chime in.
You have to look the rotation up by year. There are several different settings by year and vehicle.
Ok, stupid question, you set to the zero index mark with the other cam indices aligned, why would it matter? You just slide the belt on with the valve train set in this position, then it should be good, no? What is the magic of rotating another 50 degrees. I have a 2001 Sequoia with 255k, I need to do it, this video is great, but I need to make sure on this step.
You need to know the spec for your specific year. It changes by engine generation. The extra rotation puts the Pistons in a position where they're less likely to make valve contact if the cams move.
You say do not remove this bolt in relation to lower ac compressor bolt. Why is this? What happens if it’s removed? What is a realistic completion time for this job assuming engine still in vehicle?
If that bolt is removed completely it's an absolute pain to get reinstalled. First time doing one you'd probably be a full day.
so how was the oil pump reseal as i need to take one off on a 04 4runner because of the lower alternator bolt you spoke of .
It's not a fun job at all since the oil pans have to come off before the oil pump, which meant pulling the engine out. Not sure on a 4Runner if you can snake the pans out with the engine still in.
Is there a certain way the serpentine. Belt goes on I seen you made a mark never knew there was a correct way just wondering
I mark them so that they go back on the same direction they came off. On a new one it doesn't matter.
Totally confused as to which marks to line up to based on your comment in 17:30 of your video. You say to rotate it past "0" 50 degrees.
A thread I read says: "When the engine is at TDC the pulley marks on the crank and cam gears line up with the single straight mark. PRIOR to removing the belt, rotate the engine slightly clockwise until all gear marks line up with the "T" (Timing Service Position) This ensures that NONE of your pistons are any longer at TDC, where a slight "snap" from a cam could bend a vale. These "T" marks are where you line up the marks on the belt."
The Dayco instructions say "0" on the Crank Pulley and the red marks on the Cam Pulley.
Trying to figure out which is correct. I have a 2004 Tundra 4.7 V8.
TIA
As I say in the video it changed by year. There are 3 different positions by generation. You've got to look up the instructions by year. I've never used a Dayco kit so I'm not sure what their manual looks like. The manual in the Aisin kits breaks it down by year. The factory manuals also break it down by year.
Other videos have proved that the manual is wrong on this and taking the advised 50 degree forward/backward rotation often results in the cams slipping. There is a reason the manufacturer put the "T" on the engine and that is because it's just enough to clear the valves but not too much to cause the cams to slip. I just replaced my 06 timing belt using the "T" marks and it worked perfectly. If you also see a paint mark on the T from the factory, that should be extra assurance.
The degree of rotation varies by the year of the engine. There isn't a one spot fits all. I'll continue to follow the factory manual until Toyota releases a change. I doubt "other videos" have the engineering background Toyota does. They're procedures were developed for a reason.
@@OTRAMM What I'm saying is that other mechanics have posted videos following the exact factory recommendation and the cams have slipped. In total, I've seen 3 videos with the cams slipping following the factory recommendation.
@@nicholash8021 if the crank is in the proper position, it doesn't matter if the cams slip. That's the point of using the proper position.
How did you go about cleaning the area once all disassembled? What cleaner did you use?
I rinsed it down with brake clean and a small nylon brush.