The hardest bit is getting the impulse line on ...i use a piece of string for the boot, wrap it ound then feed it through hole pull the string and pops right in 👍🏼
This is probably the best detailed instruction video ever, many thanks. I went on your video to resolve why my MS193T throttle linkage rod doesn't stay in the plastic hole in the trigger lock. This is the rod that's in the handle and it's the end facing the front of the saw, and the hole is in the midddle plastic piece of three. I watched you install the rod in this plastic hole that looked like a very lose fit just like mine. When I assemble the handle the rod falls out. What keeps the rod from falling out? I've hardlly used this saw, it's practically new.
Hi ! Thank you so much. My new stihl ms 194 had a problem with handle and tringle. And all small parts were gone from holes and I had no idea how it was set. You make me save money and feel proud to fix my chainsaw. Your video is usefull. Thank you so much for sharing. Greetings from France. You made my day better with your help. 👍👍👍
Video is awesome!! I ran mine over the day after I purchased it. Had to replace the entire handle assembly. This video saved me quite a bit of $. There were a few differences in mine from the one in video. Mine being a 2021 model. I’ve also found that my wife’s large baking sheets work wonderfully for keeping all the parts together 😏 Thank you!!!
Dang it! We've all been there at one time or another. I drove over my stihl blower not long ago with my tractor. Pretty disheartening. Glad this was able to help ya. Best part is saving money AND learning your saw at the same time. It's a great feeling! Good work friend! You should be proud. I like the baking sheet idea (I won't tell the wife) I'll have to remember that one!
You do a good job on your videos.....camera angles, sequence of events, relevant explanation, good extra insights, good editing....very enjoyable, helpful and relevant for my own project......many thanks from Central Texas, rgds, fm
Thanks, that means a lot. I know these "assembly videos" can be long and dry, but sometimes that's the only way to get all the info across. I always try and hit on points that I find myself asking questions about when watching others videos. Like, what about "this little step" that a lot of us in the know, just simply assume others know and skip over. Anyway thanks for the compliment. Any questions feel free to ask. Merry Christmas
@@samishsawworks5870 Stihl saws are always complicated to work on (Germans like to complicate things.....I worked for Siemens for many years....).....I favor Husqy, but I usually end up with a Stihl. I like to practice on a Rubix Cube a couple of weeks before tackling a Stihl. They can be fun if you get your mind right ahead of time. Both Husqy and Stihl are very good work saws.....And to you a Merry Christmas and a better New Year..... Rgds, fm
Excellent job on this video. Saved me time and frustration on handle reassembly. I'll be watching the mods video next!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Absolutely thorough explanation of this saw! I’ve been watching all your videos on this saw and I’d love to see the porting on one also thanks so much for these great videos!!
I have one in a box that I'll be porting. I'll make sure to get footage. I've had a bunch of people asking about it. They're not bad little saws with a little work. Thanks for popping in!
Very good video. I'm going to be reassembling my 193t next week (I tore it down because of low compression and some exhaust scoring). I'm reusing the factory piston and cylinder with a new ring before I give up on it and have to buy a new factory kit. Can you tell me the following: Did you packed your crankshaft bearings with grease? Did you use a base gasket between the cylinder and crankshaft cover or did you use RTV or similar substance instead? Finally, did you use any sealant on the oil seals or the channels that they sit in? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I just wanted to say that I'm really grateful for your video I had a problem with my trigger I had a boner new 194 steel and one of the guys banged it up against a limb and kind of like tweaked the trigger mechanism on top and I was terrified to take it apart cuz I had did one before and I just couldn't put it back together so I looked at your video and it was so simple I mean I I put it all back together and I fixed it I'm so proud of myself and thanks a lot for your video I really appreciate it
Hey, thanks! There are a lot of places, but ebay is usually a solid bet. I also use HLSupply quite a bit. www.hlsproparts.com/ They have oem & aftermarket support. You can search a number of ways, I usually just throw my saws model number in the search bar and voilà
Thanks for the great videos on the 192. I've had 1 since new and did the muffler and timing mod and its made it a different machine. I was hoping you were going to show the porting work being done as it'd be interesting from my point of view to see but totally understand if you dont want to show it. Have to get me one of those dogs for mine. What size chain and bar do you recommend for firewood and light tree work as i'm still running the original 14in .043 pico and the bar is at that stage of retirement. Oh and is there a secret to stop the oil from leaking when not in use as mine always seeps out.
I have no problem showing it. I've had more and more inquiries about it so I'll start doing some more videos on it. I got busy going and realized I never got record on the camera 🤦♂️ I have another 192 on the bench I'll be porting soon and I'll make sure to have the camera rolling this time haha
One of them I run is NOT ported, just the same mods you have and it lives with a 16" bar on it. I run 3/8 LP .050 gauge full chisel Stihl PS chain. That's what I'm used to so 14" feels small to me, but 14" is what most people run on them. I'm also not in "hardwood" country so I can't comment, but it has no problem pulling a16" in our fir here. Regardless of 14 or 16 I've always run .050 gauge bars. Not always the cheapest, but I recommend the Stihl rollomatic E light bar hands down. www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chains-bars-and-accessories/Guide-bars/2631-63696/fuehrungsschiene-rollomatic-e-light-3-8-p-1-3-mm.aspx
A new oil pickup hose is almost always the culprit. They have a molded in "grommet" that's part of the oil line. It can get soft or hard with age and leak right where they go through the tank. I have one torn down and can do a video on oil line replacement if you'd like. Pretty simple and straight forward. www.ebay.com/itm/1129-647-9400-New-OEM-STIHL-Oil-Line-Hose-MS192-MS193-MS200-MS201-MS201T/402497795895?epid=1600548299&hash=item5db6bcf737:g:pd4AAOSwFwVfij7F
@@samishsawworks5870 Thanks for the swift replys there Ben. I'd love to see the porting done and the reasoning for it. Something i'd like to try down the track. My oil has leaked since new and had me stuffed so i'd just empty every time. Don't feel like you have to do the vid but if no problemo then i'd be interested in seeing it. I was going to ask but you already answered with the Stihl rollomatic E light bar hands down. So no aftermarket bar or chain then. I had archer ? noname chain in there for abit trying to keep cost down. i guess you don't really save going cheap in the long run.
Good to see you liking the easy start a few vids back too. I had to repair so many when i was working as a gardener for idiots that keep drop starting them. Try to explain the concept then see them droping them 5 min later only for me to then repair down the track.
Great vid Ben cool magnum sticker too! Just reassembled my 192 T and the dreaded extra mystery part in my tray was the E-clip and I’m not sure where it goes. I did not do a full tear down and think it goes in the carb somewhere. Any ideas?
I don't remember an e-clip off the top of my head. Could you shoot me a picture of it? If so, email is samishsawworks@gmail.com if I saw it, it might spark a memory ;)
The only e-clips I usually run into are small ones on older Stihls (the 031, 056, etc. era) that hold the throttle/choke linkages onto the carb shafts and the larger e-clips that hold the clutch drum on when a saw has an inboard clutch.
It all depends if the piston is just scored or if the cylinder is scored as well. Also depends on how bad the scoring is. There is no sleeve. So, if the cylinder is scored, you have to replace the whole cylinder along with the piston & rings. You can determine if cylinder is actually scored(has grooves in it) or if it's just aluminum transfer from the piston. Sometimes if it's just aluminum transfer, a cylinder can be cleaned up and then you just need a piston and rings. I've used the following method to remove aluminum transfer from the cylinder with good luck. Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/cksVNkI4zps/v-deo.html Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/VuMlesup53o/v-deo.html
where did you say (or what model saw) you got the metal dogs from, or are they genuine option? Can't remember which video you said it, I only have the plastic ones, metal would be nice
They're a factory option on 200t, ms170,ms180,ms250 etc. Part number for the dog is 1123 664 0501 The screws you need are part number 9075 478 4115 There is a dog that has teeth that are all flat in line and NOT arched.....I don't like it as much as these arched ones. They are sometimes mismarked with the part number above so just look at the picture to verify before purchase. Both work fine, just personal preference.
@@CSkwirl I have seen those. I think they would be huge on a 192t. They'd be huge on a ms170, ms180, ms250 etc. for that matter!.......... only one man's opinion of course.
I haven't. Did it have a 201t carburetor and boot? That's the closest thing I could think of. I haven't been into many new rear handle saws of that style, but I'm sure there's one that would crossover and maybe slipped through. Interesting.
@@samishsawworks5870 The carburetor fit everything like it was the correct one but the throttle control screw didn’t line up with the access hole in the plastic. That screw was lower so you had to access it through a gap below the hole in the plastic.. The intake boot didn’t have the little ear on it with the hole in it for the pulse. The metal ring was shaped to allow for that rubber tab but the boot didn’t have it. Since the path for the pulse wasn’t sealed tight between the boot and the carb the saw would die and when it would run the RPMs would fluctuate. I cut a piece of small fuel line and made a seal for the pulse and it runs great.
May your name be fondly remembered and your service never forgotten.
Well done,sir. And thanks for making me look pretty apt;-)
The hardest bit is getting the impulse line on ...i use a piece of string for the boot, wrap it ound then feed it through hole pull the string and pops right in 👍🏼
This is probably the best detailed instruction video ever, many thanks. I went on your video to resolve why my MS193T throttle linkage rod doesn't stay in the plastic hole in the trigger lock. This is the rod that's in the handle and it's the end facing the front of the saw, and the hole is in the midddle plastic piece of three. I watched you install the rod in this plastic hole that looked like a very lose fit just like mine. When I assemble the handle the rod falls out. What keeps the rod from falling out?
I've hardlly used this saw, it's practically new.
Hi ! Thank you so much. My new stihl ms 194 had a problem with handle and tringle. And all small parts were gone from holes and I had no idea how it was set. You make me save money and feel proud to fix my chainsaw. Your video is usefull. Thank you so much for sharing. Greetings from France. You made my day better with your help. 👍👍👍
Man, I had to take the handle apart and this video saved me when reconnecting everything on the handle and triggers. Many many thanks!!!
Great presentation of take down and rebuild. Your patience and thorough but not too thorough explaining made things workable for me, thanks.
Incredible and extremly helpful video, helped me to figure out the trigger linkage assembly, great job and thanks for sharing!
Video is awesome!!
I ran mine over the day after I purchased it. Had to replace the entire handle assembly. This video saved me quite a bit of $.
There were a few differences in mine from the one in video. Mine being a 2021 model. I’ve also found that my wife’s large baking sheets work wonderfully for keeping all the parts together 😏
Thank you!!!
Dang it! We've all been there at one time or another. I drove over my stihl blower not long ago with my tractor. Pretty disheartening. Glad this was able to help ya. Best part is saving money AND learning your saw at the same time. It's a great feeling! Good work friend! You should be proud. I like the baking sheet idea (I won't tell the wife) I'll have to remember that one!
You do a good job on your videos.....camera angles, sequence of events, relevant explanation, good extra insights, good editing....very enjoyable, helpful and relevant for my own project......many thanks from Central Texas, rgds, fm
Thanks, that means a lot. I know these "assembly videos" can be long and dry, but sometimes that's the only way to get all the info across. I always try and hit on points that I find myself asking questions about when watching others videos. Like, what about "this little step" that a lot of us in the know, just simply assume others know and skip over. Anyway thanks for the compliment. Any questions feel free to ask. Merry Christmas
@@samishsawworks5870 Stihl saws are always complicated to work on (Germans like to complicate things.....I worked for Siemens for many years....).....I favor Husqy, but I usually end up with a Stihl. I like to practice on a Rubix Cube a couple of weeks before tackling a Stihl. They can be fun if you get your mind right ahead of time. Both Husqy and Stihl are very good work saws.....And to you a Merry Christmas and a better New Year..... Rgds, fm
agreed: great vids
Excellent job on this video. Saved me time and frustration on handle reassembly. I'll be watching the mods video next!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
P손잡이 스위치 트로틀 조립방법을 보고 어려운 부분을 직접 조립완성되어 귀하의 동영상 이 많은 도움이 되어 감사합니다
Absolutely thorough explanation of this saw! I’ve been watching all your videos on this saw and I’d love to see the porting on one also thanks so much for these great videos!!
I have one in a box that I'll be porting. I'll make sure to get footage. I've had a bunch of people asking about it. They're not bad little saws with a little work. Thanks for popping in!
Hey Ben! Looking for that porting vid. Thanks for all the great videos!
Great work. You are an awesome Chainsaw repairman and do expert video work. Thanks for your videos, they are very professional and extremely helpful.
🤣🤣 love the magnum sticker!
Thanks for all your hard work. I'll give a cut report after i break it in!
This vid is a life saver. Thank you so much.
No problem, I'm glad it was able to help you. Merry Christmas & happy New Year!
Są jeszcze modyfikacje silników zwiększające moc, jak zrobić w tych mniejszych morelach
Very good video. I'm going to be reassembling my 193t next week (I tore it down because of low compression and some exhaust scoring). I'm reusing the factory piston and cylinder with a new ring before I give up on it and have to buy a new factory kit. Can you tell me the following: Did you packed your crankshaft bearings with grease? Did you use a base gasket between the cylinder and crankshaft cover or did you use RTV or similar substance instead? Finally, did you use any sealant on the oil seals or the channels that they sit in? Any help is greatly appreciated.
superb video , best I haVE SEEN ON THROTTLE RE ASSEMBLY. TOP HNOTCH
Thanks!
congratulations very good the video helped me a lot to better understand the assembly of my machine !!!
After removing the piston, why didn't you show us how to put it back in?
Odd question, will cylinder and piston off of a 192 or 193 fit on the 194 crank assembly? I have both but 294 piston is ate up.
Trying to get the handle assembly together on an 019T and its way harder than these top handles!
I appreciate the videos you make thank you man! Godbless
I just wanted to say that I'm really grateful for your video I had a problem with my trigger I had a boner new 194 steel and one of the guys banged it up against a limb and kind of like tweaked the trigger mechanism on top and I was terrified to take it apart cuz I had did one before and I just couldn't put it back together so I looked at your video and it was so simple I mean I I put it all back together and I fixed it I'm so proud of myself and thanks a lot for your video I really appreciate it
You're welcome. Happy to hear it! It always feels good to fix stuff yourself! Good work! Keep it up!
Oh, and I'm proud of you too, good stuff.
Great video! Thank you!
A machine saver. Thank you💪
THANKS share this video
Jakie obroty są optymalne 👍
Thank really helps us thank you
Very clear and helpful. Cheers!
Muchas gracias!
Great video sir just subscribed
Where I can find aftermarket parts for this model
Hey, thanks! There are a lot of places, but ebay is usually a solid bet. I also use HLSupply quite a bit. www.hlsproparts.com/
They have oem & aftermarket support. You can search a number of ways, I usually just throw my saws model number in the search bar and voilà
Thanks for the great videos on the 192. I've had 1 since new and did the muffler and timing mod and its made it a different machine.
I was hoping you were going to show the porting work being done as it'd be interesting from my point of view to see but totally understand if you dont want to show it.
Have to get me one of those dogs for mine.
What size chain and bar do you recommend for firewood and light tree work as i'm still running the original 14in .043 pico and the bar is at that stage of retirement.
Oh and is there a secret to stop the oil from leaking when not in use as mine always seeps out.
I have no problem showing it. I've had more and more inquiries about it so I'll start doing some more videos on it. I got busy going and realized I never got record on the camera 🤦♂️ I have another 192 on the bench I'll be porting soon and I'll make sure to have the camera rolling this time haha
One of them I run is NOT ported, just the same mods you have and it lives with a 16" bar on it. I run 3/8 LP .050 gauge full chisel Stihl PS chain. That's what I'm used to so 14" feels small to me, but 14" is what most people run on them. I'm also not in "hardwood" country so I can't comment, but it has no problem pulling a16" in our fir here. Regardless of 14 or 16 I've always run .050 gauge bars. Not always the cheapest, but I recommend the Stihl rollomatic E light bar hands down.
www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chains-bars-and-accessories/Guide-bars/2631-63696/fuehrungsschiene-rollomatic-e-light-3-8-p-1-3-mm.aspx
A new oil pickup hose is almost always the culprit. They have a molded in "grommet" that's part of the oil line. It can get soft or hard with age and leak right where they go through the tank. I have one torn down and can do a video on oil line replacement if you'd like. Pretty simple and straight forward.
www.ebay.com/itm/1129-647-9400-New-OEM-STIHL-Oil-Line-Hose-MS192-MS193-MS200-MS201-MS201T/402497795895?epid=1600548299&hash=item5db6bcf737:g:pd4AAOSwFwVfij7F
@@samishsawworks5870 Thanks for the swift replys there Ben. I'd love to see the porting done and the reasoning for it. Something i'd like to try down the track.
My oil has leaked since new and had me stuffed so i'd just empty every time. Don't feel like you have to do the vid but if no problemo then i'd be interested in seeing it.
I was going to ask but you already answered with the Stihl rollomatic E light bar hands down. So no aftermarket bar or chain then. I had archer ? noname chain in there for abit trying to keep cost down. i guess you don't really save going cheap in the long run.
Good to see you liking the easy start a few vids back too. I had to repair so many when i was working as a gardener for idiots that keep drop starting them. Try to explain the concept then see them droping them 5 min later only for me to then repair down the track.
Any suggestions on a 192 t fresh rebuild that has 70 psi compression is that too low to start and run
Superb video! Thank you Sir!
Can the fuel and oil tank be separated from the carcass?
Thank you so much. Great video
Do you know the part number for the kill switch trigger I can not find it and mine snapped in half
Thanks so much 🙏
Jakie model jest najlepszy 192t,193t 194t do którego są tańsze części?
thank you good nice
Great vid Ben cool magnum sticker too! Just reassembled my 192 T and the dreaded extra mystery part in my tray was the E-clip and I’m not sure where it goes. I did not do a full tear down and think it goes in the carb somewhere. Any ideas?
I don't remember an e-clip off the top of my head. Could you shoot me a picture of it? If so, email is samishsawworks@gmail.com if I saw it, it might spark a memory ;)
The only e-clips I usually run into are small ones on older Stihls (the 031, 056, etc. era) that hold the throttle/choke linkages onto the carb shafts and the larger e-clips that hold the clutch drum on when a saw has an inboard clutch.
@@samishsawworks5870 it’s a small one not for the clutch. I’m not even certain it came off the saw. Will send a pic thanks
I racked my brain and I cannot think of anywhere on that saw there would be an e-clip. My bet would be it was from another.
@@samishsawworks5870 there's an e clip on the linkage for the chain brake handle. Under the white cover on the clutch cover assembly.
Where can I get an engine for my stihl ms193t ? How much do you think an aftermarket engine would be?
If the piston has scoring, do you just replace the piston? The piston rings or is there a cylinder sleeve also?
It all depends if the piston is just scored or if the cylinder is scored as well. Also depends on how bad the scoring is. There is no sleeve. So, if the cylinder is scored, you have to replace the whole cylinder along with the piston & rings. You can determine if cylinder is actually scored(has grooves in it) or if it's just aluminum transfer from the piston. Sometimes if it's just aluminum transfer, a cylinder can be cleaned up and then you just need a piston and rings. I've used the following method to remove aluminum transfer from the cylinder with good luck.
Part 1 ua-cam.com/video/cksVNkI4zps/v-deo.html
Part 2 ua-cam.com/video/VuMlesup53o/v-deo.html
So what does ported do
💜💜💜
where did you say (or what model saw) you got the metal dogs from, or are they genuine option? Can't remember which video you said it, I only have the plastic ones, metal would be nice
They're a factory option on 200t, ms170,ms180,ms250 etc.
Part number for the dog is
1123 664 0501
The screws you need are part number
9075 478 4115
There is a dog that has teeth that are all flat in line and NOT arched.....I don't like it as much as these arched ones. They are sometimes mismarked with the part number above so just look at the picture to verify before purchase. Both work fine, just personal preference.
@@samishsawworks5870 Sweet, thanks
@@samishsawworks5870 Did you know Farmertec make a "Pro" set, they look pretty big?
@@CSkwirl I have seen those. I think they would be huge on a 192t. They'd be huge on a ms170, ms180, ms250 etc. for that matter!.......... only one man's opinion of course.
@@CSkwirl they'd also probably eat up a good 1.5 inches worth of usable bar length as well.
I have a Stihl MS193T that came from the dealer with the wrong carburetor and the wrong intake boot on it. Ever run into that?
I haven't. Did it have a 201t carburetor and boot? That's the closest thing I could think of. I haven't been into many new rear handle saws of that style, but I'm sure there's one that would crossover and maybe slipped through. Interesting.
@@samishsawworks5870 The carburetor fit everything like it was the correct one but the throttle control screw didn’t line up with the access hole in the plastic. That screw was lower so you had to access it through a gap below the hole in the plastic.. The intake boot didn’t have the little ear on it with the hole in it for the pulse. The metal ring was shaped to allow for that rubber tab but the boot didn’t have it. Since the path for the pulse wasn’t sealed tight between the boot and the carb the saw would die and when it would run the RPMs would fluctuate. I cut a piece of small fuel line and made a seal for the pulse and it runs great.
@@wcjcnc strange! Good work making a field fix with the fuel line. Necessity is the mother of invention.
@@samishsawworks5870 I think you’re right about it probably being built during a change of design and it slipped through with the wrong parts on it.
LOL 🤣
AT LEAST a half horse more after that sweet mod!
bien domage que je comprend pa langlais
😂🤣😅🐖🐷
Your a life saver !! thanks