Converting a Kawasaki KLX250sf Enduro Dirtbike to Electric (Pt.2) - Designing the Motor Mount
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
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Part 1 here: • Converting a Kawasaki ...
Quick and dirty conversion of a running Kawasaki KLS250sf enduro dirtbike to electric. In this video, I 3D print a model of the QS138 motor and fiddle around with it for a bit to figure out how best to mount it in the frame. Then I grind away at the piece of plastic for 10 minutes. Exciting stuff!
Electric motor: QS138 90H
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STL files for motor model:
cults3d.com/en...
Controller: Fardriver ND96530 (96 volts, 530A phase current)
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Battery (TBD): Will be a 24s pack built from 18650 cells but will use the 24s 20Ah Lipo battery pack from my other video.
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#electricmotorcycles #ebike #diy #motorcycles #lithiumionbatteries #diyebike #motorcycles #caferacer #dirtbike #electricvehicle
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Always super impressed with your technique on how you approach your design challenges. It appears that a 3d printer is a vital tool for you, I think it’s time Ii go down that rabbit hole
Thanks so much! yeah 3D printing is so useful. These projects would be so much more difficult without one. but yeah, it is a bit of a rabbit hole. my advice is to not cheap out on your first printer. you will end up spending more money on needed upgrades while driving yourself insane. I've had really good experience with the Creality CR-6 SE. As long as you take the time to assemble it well, its about as close to maintenance-free as you can get
Super helpful, appreciate you taking the time to recommend that printer. As that’s my fear about getting a printer, it becomes a bigger hobby than what I’m trying to build parts for. This electric hobby already takes up the majority of free time and I just see how 3d printing can become a similar sized hobby taking away from the thing it’s trying to advance. But the rewards look worth the time and money invested as you are doing some amazing 3d work in combination with electric builds.
One of the only channels I have seen that incorporates both so perfectly.
@@kevins5016 yeah its definitely a hobby unto it's own and I feel the same - its just a utility for me, not an artform. if you get really into the nitty gritty of optimizing the quality of your prints, you'll spend a lot of time tweaking your 3D printer but if youre like me and willing to compomise a bit on aesthetics (maybe some rough layer lines here or there) you can use it without having it suck too much time out of your day
What size sprocket are you using in the rear?
Would you be willing to share your 3-D file for your mount and motor?
Rear sprocket is a 70T. You can download the motor mount here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/qs138-90h-motor-mount
What size are the bolts that screw into the motor?
Can you share the 3d file for the motor and shaft?
If you mount the motor on the swing arm in back of the mono shock the chain tension would not change when the rear suspension moves,
Yeah, but adding 25+ lbs of unsprung weight would screw with the handling 👎
You can totally skip the tracing on paper. I used to do this kind of reverse engineering when building exhaust headers, I would just get the original manifold lay flat on the scanner bed and hit scan. always right the first time !
Man, wow alot of nice smart work has been done in here, after all will be very close to Zero SR I think ah, good job man !!
IF you will sale this bike how much would you ask $$ ??
Thank you! I think it will be similar in performance to Zero SR but I still need to design and build a battery pack - just using a small temporary one for now. not sure about price but I probably will sell it after some time to finance new projects. planning to make it street legal and do the work for a clean and professional finally appearance
Would you be willing to share the file? I would like to print one your for myself to try in my bike.
yes, STL for the mount is here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/qs138-90h-motor-mount
@@GaiusGarage this reply is fire. Perfect example of an open source consummate professional.
Fantastic work!
Is there any reason why you didn't use ME1507 motor in your conversion?
Thank you! I actually have the ME1507 for another build that I'm about pick back up. this one was supposed to me a quick build using simple off-the-shelf components but if you keep watching this series, it turned out to be a bit of a fiasco. on my second QS138 motor currently and having issues with overheating
@@GaiusGarage I appreciate fast reply!
I'm in planning phases of go-kart/cross-kart build, and your ME1507 setup video was very helpful. I'm now leaning towards Kelly controller + ME1507 or ME1616 for my build
@@elyorkhakimov6911 for sure! yeah either one of those would be a great choice! I slightly regretting not picking up a ME1616 for the liquid cooling option
Did you not need a gear reduction? I’m looking to start my build and trying to decide between the 70 and 90 motors.
I think it should be ok. I'd rather have the 90H motor and manage the gearing with the rear sprocket. I have actually ordered a larger one than the one in the video
amazing video! do you think aluminum would be strong enough? or is it a must to go with steel?
thank you! yes, aluminum would be ok I think but it would probably need to be a bit thicker. main reason for using steel is that (1) I was originally going to weld to the frame and (2) it's easier and cheaper to fabricate. I'm working on an electric GSXR conversion (videos to come) where I will be using a CNC machined aluminum motor mount
@@GaiusGarage why is it easier and cheaper to fabricate? is it because your tools are better suited for steel or in general?
@@spirobel mild steel in general is cheaper than aluminum and the steel supply place in my area offers plasma cutting for steel parts. beyond that, I haven't delved into aluminum welding yet, so just currently more within my skill set
@@GaiusGarage on the other hand it is possible to cut aluminum with a jigsaw. So no need for a plasma cutter. Do you think it would be possible to build this just by using screws instead of welding?
@@spirobel that is true! but for the motor register, I couldnt think of a way to get a perfect hole that size without CNC machine equipment. on that note, it might be possible if you get clever with using the mounting points you have available and I guess if youre good with forming aluminum, its possible. Also if you compromise on looks, you can definitely just mount everything up with haphazard beams, rods, etc. Ive seem conversions done this way that are probably just as robust but even though this is a quick build I wanted it to look half-decent
100'/.perfect work🌹
Hello, I am planning to install a motor 3000w qs138 70 H, but the spatial frame of a bike Teleportator Medium, but I have no experience with 3D programs, I can imagine in your head how it will look, but how to install the engine of reality from the bottom of the frame 138, and also use aluminum pendulum from enduro 😰😞
Looks like you need to tune your printer, have you calibrated e-steps and/or flow rate? It looked like you might have had under-extrusion, although I'm not a professional
haha yeah I use that printer for these sorts of prototypes and generally dont obsess much about fine details as long as the the model is within comperable tolerances to the original. that Ender CR-6 is a real workhorse - I literally NEVER tune it. I barely even clean it or run the auto-level yet it continues to produce very acceptable quality prints. I just printed an electronics box for this bike that'll have in another video that actually came out very pristine without any tuning whatsoever. Also the green filament I used for that motor was over a year old just sitting out - prob had a ton of moisture in it
Did the bike have a 520 chain? Doesn't that motor usually come with a 428 size sprocket?
I actually dont remember what chain it originally had but yes, that motor comes with a 428 sprocket -- I customer ordered a 70T 428 rear sprocket and picked up a 428 chain on amazon
Are your stl files for 3d printing motor and mount available for download on thingyverse ?
I can send them to you - hmu on instagram @emot.os
What kind of 3d printer do u have??
the one in the video is a Creality CR-6 SE. Ive since picked up a Bambu X1. both are great
@@GaiusGarage thanks
I hope you can share your 3d model for the motor
yes, the model can be found here: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/qs138-90h-motor
So what's your day job? haha
In all seriousness, how long have you been working on this and how much longer do you think you have left?
this project specifically? it's been about 2 months - trying to knock it out sooner rather than later - definitely in the home stretch in terms of a ridable bike. but then I'll need to design and build a permanent battery pack - just using a 20Ah lipo pack for now
why tf does everyone use the qs138 when the qs180 exists? am i missing something?
why use a qs180 when ME1507 exists. why use a ME1507 when ME1616 exists? weight, size, cost, power requirements
@@GaiusGarage touche saleman... ME1616 it is!!!
i actually didnt even know a 1616 existed so now i have to rethink this build. lol. my current bike is a qs273 50h 4t sabvoton 72200. 200 batt amps. 450 phase amps. 20s4p spim08hp. 32ah. 800A cont. its a great bike. Its been fun. just started year 3 of riding it but every time i hit a pothole and that 100lb rear wheel feels like i got hit by a truck im reminded why i shouldve went mid drive. i thought because the rear wheel would never leave the ground the weight wouldnt matter but it definitely does. Your build is amazing. its pretty much exactly what im doing for this second build. Its been awesome watching these vids. awesome job. I havent got to a video about the second motor installed and the bike working yet but im binge watching the whole series.
@@jstagzsr nice! just keep in mind ME1616 is liquid cooled. you can use it without liquid cooling but it would be a waste. it's real heavy duty stuff - big enough to power an electric SUV. if youre not planning some insane 80kW+ build, I would look at the ME1507 or smaller
@@GaiusGarage wow. That's awesome. It's crazy how much power these motors have.
I could have fabricated that plate in about 30 minutes without the help of computer design or a 3d printer. Just seems like you over prepared for it. Granted I do have about 10 years experience fabricating.
I could screw my cousin cause she’s a cheap escort but I don’t cause she’s probably dirty same with doing it without technology what are you knocking down the trails as a pioneer and building a log cabin on the front tear with your musket rifle and powdered wig only a fool or someone without access to the tools or no social network to ask around people are more then happy to help even if it’s at a fee work smarter not harder the finial product usually looks and preforms better also never knock progress
Would you be willing to 3D print me one?
yeah or I can sell you the one in the video - I'm pretty much done with it. I would just charge the cost of filament + shipping. message me on Instagram @emot.os