but the wiring, 3d prints and everything else looks very neat. Just use some epoxy filler and fresh paint on the welds and the whole build will look factory 👌
My opinion it's 1000 times cooler than a surron and the feeling of doing it yourself priceless. Awesome build, I knew it was going to be a sick bike after I seen the battery making video.
Thank you! Yeah I feel the same - I am a big fan of Surrons and a do have some advantages over a bike like this, but some disadvantages also..for instance is this a much smoother and more stable highway ride that a bit less conspicuous. Either way, being able to ride something you build from the ground up does add a level of satisfaction you just can't get from even a highly modded Surron
@@GaiusGarage I thought about finding a web site or service to see how much times you said "conduit" in this video, sadly did not find one and was been too lazy to count by myself.😂
"I'm not so so focused on the ascetics right now" Dude! that bike is sick asf!!!!!!! all the wiring, charger location, battery and motor mounting design is very thought out! sick build dude!
haha yeah I guess when you're so close to the project you notice all the little details where it could've gone better. I appreciate it! I think it does look pretty cool as long as you don't get to close lol
The “ quality welding suddenly cracking and sending me hurtling to my death “ 😂😂😂😂😂 Oh God I can’t stop laughing 😂 😂😂. Thanks you showed me I am not the only one who fears their welding skills. 😂😂😂
Thank you! I made a good amount of effort to give this a "production" feel so I appreciate the comment. I think I did a decent job of achieving this goal..until you look closely 🧐
Thanks! CR125 frame mightve been an easier build. it can be done more simply but I wanted a lot road bike features and aimed for a "clean" build to the best of my ability. things like that really inflate the amount of work it takes to get it done
really thinking of building one of these with my old crf250R frame... probs will also get a lot of trouble with water and mud-proofing for London. Eternally grateful for quality videos like these!
lube the chain on the bottom row on the inside, not on thetop outside. That way when the chain spins centrifical force will sling the oil into the chain and not off of the chain. Been riding motorcycles for 50 years and learned that one when I saw a bike with an outomatic oiler on the chain, it dropped oil on the chain on the inside right after leaving the front sprocket. All the suden then I knew. Nice job on the build.
You did everything very cool, even better than at the factory. I am interested in a detailed topic about connecting relays and fuses from the battery to the controller. Is there a video? or create a video like this
Appreciate it! The fuse just goes on the negative discharge lead closest to the battery pack..basically it should be the first thing connected on the negative side. I have some details about setting up a contactor in a video here: ua-cam.com/video/Jk19vtf5hNI/v-deo.html
I would of never guessed that frame would work out well to be an electric conversion. It just doesn't have a whole lot of space in it. Somehow you made it work though. Does the motor get too hot? It doesn't seem to have a whole lot of ventilation around it. They should be built with internal fan blades inside them to move air through them, I mean, they are already rotating.
it's everything was a pretty tight fit. took a lot of details to make it all work. motor has a temp sensor that can be monitored via the controller app. no overheating issues so far with normal riding, although heat does accumulate when riding very aggressively. I was going to make some plastic ducts to direct airflow around the motor but it's ok for now
This is probably one of the best conversions I've seen. Very well done. Question/Suggestion, When you showed your battery wire routing, it looked like you had something else connected to the battery end of the shunt. For the shunt to work properly, tracking all incoming and outgoing amps, the battery should be the only thing connected to the battery end of the shunt. Everything else, including chassis grounding, should be on the Load end of the shunt.
Much appreciated! Yeah the extra wires coming from the proximal side of the shunt are on oversight. I plan to fix that in a round of improvements I'm looking to make in the near future
@@GaiusGarage Condensation. The battery temperature will be changing and unless the box is hermetically sealed (which I doubt considering it is simply welded together...) then air with moisture will be coming in. That moisture will condense with temperature changes :)
Dude you are way too hard on yourself! That thing is awesome!!! If you buy or build a simple brake press you would have that tank looking exactly how you want it.
Awesome build, great job. Been riding dirt bike and street bikes for yrs, and you should really get rid of the chain wax or such and use a dry chain lube like wd 40 dry chain lube, and also go with a gold non oring chain...don't worry about what people say about them not lasting, it's a load of crap....Supercross and mx use them due to weight for performance too. Dry chain lube and your chain will be clean and smooth forever. 👌 Oh yeah, if you do go the dry lube way...be sure to completely decrease and clean your chain prior to doing it. They chain will stay super smooth and clean. Also, you probably might get a few extra miles range due to having less rotating mass and or resistance.
this is by far the best electric conversion ive seen. everything fits so seamless and there is pre thought to placing everything. im definitely basing my suzuki rm 125 build off of this just with an upgraded surron motor and hopefully no frame notching lol. keep it up man so sick
@@GaiusGarage oh I see, I didnt look at what motor you were using and I just heard you say "sur ron motor" and thought it was the QS165 variant that fit a sur ron. I approve of the motor you are using, I have a QS90 65 on my ktm65 and can get 10kw peak 4kw cont, pulls pretty hard
Tip on the welding. Use aluminum on the back sideof your weld joint and turn the heat up on your welder. You need mor penetration with your welds, aluminum won't weld to steel so when you "burn thought" it will keep you from makeing big holes in your metal.
i just found this video while im designing my own electric motorcycle, i recomend a hub motor to allow you much more space in the frame for battery and charger equipment, im going to use a QS273 at 96v to allow highway speed and keep my amperage down
there are pros and cons to both - hub motors are quieter & allow for more space in frame but the massive unsprung weight at the far end of the bike makes for sluggish handling and poor performance off-road, changing the rear tires becomes a chore, protecting the phase wires is an issue, and reinforcing the dropouts for the massive torque is another challenge. personally I think hub motors are better for ebikes, mopeds, cafe racers, & cruisers, mid-drive is better for dirtbikes, sport bikes, and enduros
@@GaiusGarage I definitely agree that hub motors are far worse for maneuverability especially off road. My use is basically going to be a cruiser but because I have no access to metal fabrication I had to use the stealth bomber enduro frame. So in terms of cost Hub is way cheaper for something road worthy.
As a welder fabricator and mostly high pressure welder the main thing to do when you cut that out was patch it up like you did but………… never weld it right out and get everything super hot, that will make that area the weakest point on the bike. I cut my CR apart and fixed a crack and reinforced it over 10 years ago. Luckily like I said I weld mostly high pressure piping. So I went a bit over board, I sent the frame to the heat treaters along with some piping and made the whole bikes molecules the same now. (No more weak point) oh and it didn’t cost me anything because we already had the oven rented. Just thought I would mention about rewelding things. I love your builds, I am trying to figure what to do next. I have a Cr125 (84) and (82) to convert. I’m just wondering what kinda battery I would need for a couple hours riding in the bush.
Would be great if I had access to something like that.. but given my options and skill level, I figured adding some thick plates and a bunch of weld material without grinding any of it would provide enough additional material to carry the stresses that section is subject to. I have no way of testing this so its really just spray and pray ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Nice work, very "cyber-looking". You should go with LED beam lights though. 7:50 - That's generally the symbol for daytime running lights (DRL). Low-beam is a reflector with down-pointing rays (always green), high-beam is the blue reflector with horizontal rays.
Real quick and dirty, if we knew what it really takes we would never attempt it. It took me 4 1/2 years to make my new motor. It is 40kw water cooled, with gear reduction.
well if I actually attempted to build my own practical motor from scratch, I'm sure it would take me at least as long or double after I quit halfway through. what kind of motor is it? BLDC, sinosoidal AC?
Unbelievable build. I can’t even imagine how many hours you have in this. I am blown away and really appreciate your attention to detail. So much for quick and dirty!
Hey man, very nicely done I gotta say. I have done a fair bit of sheet metal fabricating and if I was making that one part at the top of the false tank there.. I would follow the long straight line along the front of the seat, simply span the area your covering with minimal bends, I like to use construction paper and for a pro finish Bondo is my go to product! Anyways great work, great bike. And the f'n crack about my mother.... earned you my script..lol Cheers Dude!
100% respects for re purpusing something! Thanks for all the vids on this kind of stuff ! I was able to build my own most powerful e scooter in the known world by accident! . I did it by mostly watching your builds ! I use 2 175amp ANDERSON connectors connectors. Per battery. That is a great bike build !
Installing a charger and mounting the battery above it didn’t make sense to me until I realized you’re going to street ride it. Cool bike, good build, great video.
Yes, definitely, more info is always good! I'm looking at the kits sold by Electro & Co they are pretty reasonable price, now I'm looking around for a chassis !! I like the Super Moto setup!@@GaiusGarage
Ive been thinking about doing this myself but with surron parts! im guessing that would make it easier because the controller, battery and motor will already work together! just to figure out how to fit it onto the dirt bike!
Been looking for one with this kind of motor. Most of these videos I watch they use the one with it built into the back tire. This hopefully will help me out when I try to start mine
its supposedly IP65 water resistant.. I'm sure the pins and terminal lugs would rust over time with exposure but I would presumably service the bike every year or so
you can definitely do it with liquid cooling but I run 30kW peak through this motor every time I ride without issues. heating only becomes in issue with very aggressive riding
@@GaiusGarage people I know simply put some heat conductive compound, so cooling becomes a lot easier. Few years ago common combo was improved qs138, VOTOL 200 and 4,5 kWh battery, dirtbikes with it are quite fun. Also, our electric snowbike manages to push 38kW through this motor, but temperature problem in this case is related to batteries, not the motor
Dude - tight build! Been using my Cake Osa+ emoto here in LA as my only vehicle (outside of my pedal bike) and it's a great way to get around. I've been considering doing a DIY build like yours and really appreciate you talking about all the considerations around wiring and the not so fun parts of the build. Any chance that you remember where you picked up those batteries from? Seem like the individual module size could make them pretty useful to a bunch of donor bikes. Thanks again for sharing!
Can you build a 4wd trailer designed to be a solar charging station. Maxeon panels have micro inverters. You need 6 panels approx to charge an EV! Conn cted to a Wallbox style charger. A trailer you can take camping that can charge your 4wd whilst you lounge about! It could have a battery like a Powerwall as well that could charge while your driving to be used for cooking etc. Compact so that when you stop the rest of the panels fold out or can be pulled out and lie on the ground connected by decent cables.
this was the original plan, but it was such a bad fit for the setup and it would require more alteration where it was easier to just built something from scratch
yeah that would definitely be a better option since this tank is not load-bearing. But it would be difficult to get the dimensions and anchor points right in CAD - would have to scan the frame or do a lot of iteration. I think the better approach in this case would be fiberglass but I dont have any experience with that.. I think if I get some free time, I'll use this as the project to learn how to work with it
Lot issues i see when people build electric bikes or any project is they either don't use proper gauge wire always better to scale up a size even if gauge is capable of the power also to many dont realize how critical temps on batteries and controllers factor in how it will run so think of electronics like computer the lower the temps the longer it will live also batteries are one most looked over i would try to vent the battery case if possible if ur not going to ride in water or bad environment it would be a benefit it help with sag hot batteries will sag quicker ive use small computer fans in projects in battery cases as exhaust and on the controllers also may add so flare of scoup to direct air towards motor and just lookes just some suggestions keep up great work and have great day.
thank you! yeah active cooling could add some improved efficiency here but also more complexity. in general, all components tend to stay within range in terms of temperature and 4AWG wire is definitely adequate
Hi, neat build, can see you put a LOT of thought into this, A few questions if I may? On the charger wires, You have them going into the cabling box, does this box have a weep hole on it? The reason I ask is because there are no drip loops for any condensation (water) that may run down them, (I did not see any weather proofing grommets on those wires where they entered the box). This could cause the box to trap condensation which could lead to corrosion on those contacts of the plugs inside that box. The only other thing is where the phase wires pass, very close to the shock spring which moves quite a bit, I understand wiring code say that wires need to compress rather than stretch all good with that, and I understand you would not want sharps bends or tight pinches in them, is there possibly another route for those? Other than that..... MAD MAD MAD respect to the attention in detail you have put into the build.... Very very very nice!
Nice job! I have a question relating the contacter. You run a DC-DC converter i suppose?. However how do switch on the contacter with 12v when the battery is disconnecter (aka contacter is open)? Or is your dc-dc converter positioned before the contacter? Thanks
This is a good question and Ive gone down the road with the handful of solutions. The solution I decided best fits this particular bike (and probably most smaller builds) is to run the high-voltage input through the key switch and to a solid-state relay that powers the dc-dc converter. because the voltage is high and running power of the relay very low (only about 5W) the current in the input line is extremely very low (less than 0.1 amp) so its ok for it run through the switch directly. this way, when you turn the key, it activates the solid state relay, which allows current to flow to the dc-dc converter and power the 12V electronics, one of which is the contactor. I have a video showing the power converter module used on this bike here: ua-cam.com/video/8BG9ZxA9hz8/v-deo.htmlsi=S5j4sZa6yZIZbZqH
Its hard to say.. I didnt really keep track of all the minor items, cost of metal etc. I also sold the engine from this bike and a few other parts (but not all). In general, it probably cost on the order of $3k, maybe a bit more if you dig into the nitty gritty
Did you go with the 84vdc or 96vdc setup? 24s is 86v. I am starting on a similar build but with a hub motor. Was thinking QS is my best bet. Do you know anything better that is cheaper? Looking to go with the 8kw motor set. Thanks and cheers
84V - it's better to size the controller where your max battery voltage is close to the max voltage of the controller to get the most out of flux weakening. QS is definitely the way to go for a hub motor - not too many quality alternatives as far as I know. good luck on your build!
I'm not even into motorbikes but I like ebikes, and I'd probably love this. I also like anything well made and this was really well made (the bike and the vid). Instant sub
Awesome build! I'm trying to put something similar together, I'm using the same battery setup and am wondering what charger you're using. Seems like it's tricky to find a charger that can output the 100 volts needed for the pack.
I love the math meme from Off Topic. Not what I had in mind for a build, but cool to see it's doable with the KLX250sf. Currently looking for a rolling frame for cheap, because the SurRon I want is as expensive as a legal bike.. 🤔
the quick and dirty build meme in the beginning hit me hard because i'm a few months in my quick and dirty build :p. but in the end nice build man looks good!
Not so necessary on this build. the motor does get warm if you ride aggressively but you really have to ride it like you stole it before the motor overheats
Lovely project work. How does it perform on road with the heavy battery pack in a vertical stacked position in what seems to be a relatively high centre of gravity for a motorcycle of this type?
Don’t know anything about building batteries, but if you putting a bunch on little batteries together to make a pack, could they be put into a more organic shape at the very bottom of the frame. Then have the controller and stuff above for a lower CG? Only ever see people make packs in a big box, then struggle to place it.
Thank you! yeah I keep hearing this about certain European countries. It's quite unfortunate when bureaucracies are set up in such a way where they disenfranchise people from using skill and ingenuity to facilitate their needs
Awesome build, could you explain why you chose mid-drive over hub drive? I understand that it can provide more torque and allows you to take advantage of gears, but penciling out my own build, it seems like hub drive is both cheaper and simpler. I think the big reason I want to go mid drive is because it’s cooler 😅 but I’d love more reasons to justify it. Thanks, your attention to detail is crazy and the build is super clean
Much appreciated! Its definitely a pro/con for hub vs mid-drive. Hub motors are simpler, quiet, maybe cheaper, and you have more room for the battery pack. The downside (especially for motorcycles) is a ton of weight unsprung in the rear wheel, having to deal with a really heavy wheel with giant wires coming out of it if/when you get a flat, then worst of all is accounting for with the huge forces on the dropouts. And as you mentioned, you cant really change the gearing and thus top speed other than by increasing voltage or using flux weakening.
for sure! motor and battery are just air cooled.. no active cooling basically, but motor stays reasobly cool and battery is operating at probably 50% capacity so no issues with overheating at all
yeah, bike feels really light & handling is quite good. ideally the battery would be set low in the frame but there was just no way to do it with this shape without cutting the frame even more than I already did. I could've used a a pack made from 18650 cells where I could custom design the shape but I didn't want to make the effort for this build
Welds only a mother could love. Cool build.
this is what happens when you only paint and leave out the grinder
but the wiring, 3d prints and everything else looks very neat. Just use some epoxy filler and fresh paint on the welds and the whole build will look factory 👌
I would have welded more crap to it, but wether or not you'll live depends on when/where it breaks.
My opinion it's 1000 times cooler than a surron and the feeling of doing it yourself priceless. Awesome build, I knew it was going to be a sick bike after I seen the battery making video.
Yeah true older gas bikes make excellent conversions. Currently stark varg is similar in design to this.
Thank you! Yeah I feel the same - I am a big fan of Surrons and a do have some advantages over a bike like this, but some disadvantages also..for instance is this a much smoother and more stable highway ride that a bit less conspicuous. Either way, being able to ride something you build from the ground up does add a level of satisfaction you just can't get from even a highly modded Surron
@@GaiusGarage I thought about finding a web site or service to see how much times you said "conduit" in this video, sadly did not find one and was been too lazy to count by myself.😂
"I'm not so so focused on the ascetics right now" Dude! that bike is sick asf!!!!!!! all the wiring, charger location, battery and motor mounting design is very thought out! sick build dude!
haha yeah I guess when you're so close to the project you notice all the little details where it could've gone better. I appreciate it! I think it does look pretty cool as long as you don't get to close lol
@@GaiusGarage your welds are superior to mine! Well done!
The “ quality welding suddenly cracking and sending me hurtling to my death “ 😂😂😂😂😂 Oh God I can’t stop laughing 😂 😂😂. Thanks you showed me I am not the only one who fears their welding skills. 😂😂😂
Lol yeah my mig welding takes a sort of "spray & pray" approach
lmfao ugh.. so funny
That's the best diy build of an electric bike I've ever seen! It looks almost factory fresh
Thank you! I made a good amount of effort to give this a "production" feel so I appreciate the comment. I think I did a decent job of achieving this goal..until you look closely 🧐
@@GaiusGaragereally good idea with the working mockup battery - also a lot safer during development if a short was to happen! 🤓👍
@@TheStuartstardustthank you!
I bought a CR125 frame to do this with and after seeing this I am glad I sold it, soooo much extra work
Props for sticking with it 🎉
Thanks! CR125 frame mightve been an easier build. it can be done more simply but I wanted a lot road bike features and aimed for a "clean" build to the best of my ability. things like that really inflate the amount of work it takes to get it done
really thinking of building one of these with my old crf250R frame... probs will also get a lot of trouble with water and mud-proofing for London. Eternally grateful for quality videos like these!
Nice build. Inspiring me to get back to work on my YSR50 conversion.
Thank you! YSR50 is a minibike right? sounds like a really fun conversion
@@GaiusGarage it's a street legal 50cc bike. 😀
lube the chain on the bottom row on the inside, not on thetop outside. That way when the chain spins centrifical force will sling the oil into the chain and not off of the chain. Been riding motorcycles for 50 years and learned that one when I saw a bike with an outomatic oiler on the chain, it dropped oil on the chain on the inside right after leaving the front sprocket. All the suden then I knew.
Nice job on the build.
this is a good tip! I will definitely try this. Thank you
I saw a test on YT by Ryan F9 and after his test he determined chain bar oil works just as well as high dollar stuff in the can. Nice job on the bike.
Great build! I am 14 and have a rm85 at home that i converted by myself and you can relate to the feeling of it relyably working.
Got a guide?
That's awesome, keep at it. I'm only 8 but I've built a few razors and ebikes
@@crispysocksss no you aint
@@Fedified my dad helps sometimes when I don't know how to do something
You did everything very cool, even better than at the factory. I am interested in a detailed topic about connecting relays and fuses from the battery to the controller. Is there a video? or create a video like this
Appreciate it! The fuse just goes on the negative discharge lead closest to the battery pack..basically it should be the first thing connected on the negative side. I have some details about setting up a contactor in a video here: ua-cam.com/video/Jk19vtf5hNI/v-deo.html
I would of never guessed that frame would work out well to be an electric conversion. It just doesn't have a whole lot of space in it. Somehow you made it work though. Does the motor get too hot? It doesn't seem to have a whole lot of ventilation around it. They should be built with internal fan blades inside them to move air through them, I mean, they are already rotating.
it's everything was a pretty tight fit. took a lot of details to make it all work. motor has a temp sensor that can be monitored via the controller app. no overheating issues so far with normal riding, although heat does accumulate when riding very aggressively. I was going to make some plastic ducts to direct airflow around the motor but it's ok for now
This is probably one of the best conversions I've seen. Very well done.
Question/Suggestion, When you showed your battery wire routing, it looked like you had something else connected to the battery end of the shunt. For the shunt to work properly, tracking all incoming and outgoing amps, the battery should be the only thing connected to the battery end of the shunt. Everything else, including chassis grounding, should be on the Load end of the shunt.
Much appreciated! Yeah the extra wires coming from the proximal side of the shunt are on oversight. I plan to fix that in a round of improvements I'm looking to make in the near future
I hope you have holes drilled at the bottom of the battery case to eliminate water accumulation :). I am impressed with the work gone into this.
nope! lol but the only part that not water proof is at the cover so if water is getting into the battery pack, I have much bigger problems
@@GaiusGarage Condensation. The battery temperature will be changing and unless the box is hermetically sealed (which I doubt considering it is simply welded together...) then air with moisture will be coming in. That moisture will condense with temperature changes :)
Dude you are way too hard on yourself! That thing is awesome!!! If you buy or build a simple brake press you would have that tank looking exactly how you want it.
Thank you! a brake press would be perfect
Awesome build, great job. Been riding dirt bike and street bikes for yrs, and you should really get rid of the chain wax or such and use a dry chain lube like wd 40 dry chain lube, and also go with a gold non oring chain...don't worry about what people say about them not lasting, it's a load of crap....Supercross and mx use them due to weight for performance too. Dry chain lube and your chain will be clean and smooth forever. 👌
Oh yeah, if you do go the dry lube way...be sure to completely decrease and clean your chain prior to doing it. They chain will stay super smooth and clean. Also, you probably might get a few extra miles range due to having less rotating mass and or resistance.
Ill give that a try, thank you!
Very inspiring, makes me want to build something similar.
Same!
this is by far the best electric conversion ive seen. everything fits so seamless and there is pre thought to placing everything. im definitely basing my suzuki rm 125 build off of this just with an upgraded surron motor and hopefully no frame notching lol. keep it up man so sick
Appreciate the kind words!
qs138 v3 watercooled
@@je7647 I have one actually, saving it for the right project
@@GaiusGarage oh I see, I didnt look at what motor you were using and I just heard you say "sur ron motor" and thought it was the QS165 variant that fit a sur ron. I approve of the motor you are using,
I have a QS90 65 on my ktm65 and can get 10kw peak 4kw cont, pulls pretty hard
Tip on the welding. Use aluminum on the back sideof your weld joint and turn the heat up on your welder. You need mor penetration with your welds, aluminum won't weld to steel so when you "burn thought" it will keep you from makeing big holes in your metal.
This is an excellent tip! Thank you 👍
@@GaiusGarage copper is even better.... practice, practice, practice,
You built monster
Good Luck
Best Wishes from India 🇮🇳 Karnataka
Thank you!
Crash bars ,would probably look good on this beast ,great job!
Yeah totally! I was actually going to add some but this project dragged long enough that I skipped them. Maybe a later addition. Thanks!!
Great build, love the comedy in the beginning about the welding haha
Appreciate it! Grinder and paint...
it is better to place all the control electronics somewhere on top, otherwise water from a puddle may get in
The line about never thinking about the sketchy weld just about killed me laughing
You could use the old gas tank by cutting it in 1/2 and hanging it for a place to put your tools.
That electrical box with the slide on top looks perfect for collecting and holding water. Interesting build thanks for sharing 👍🇬🇧
i just found this video while im designing my own electric motorcycle, i recomend a hub motor to allow you much more space in the frame for battery and charger equipment, im going to use a QS273 at 96v to allow highway speed and keep my amperage down
there are pros and cons to both - hub motors are quieter & allow for more space in frame but the massive unsprung weight at the far end of the bike makes for sluggish handling and poor performance off-road, changing the rear tires becomes a chore, protecting the phase wires is an issue, and reinforcing the dropouts for the massive torque is another challenge. personally I think hub motors are better for ebikes, mopeds, cafe racers, & cruisers, mid-drive is better for dirtbikes, sport bikes, and enduros
@@GaiusGarage I definitely agree that hub motors are far worse for maneuverability especially off road. My use is basically going to be a cruiser but because I have no access to metal fabrication I had to use the stealth bomber enduro frame. So in terms of cost Hub is way cheaper for something road worthy.
As a welder fabricator and mostly high pressure welder the main thing to do when you cut that out was patch it up like you did but………… never weld it right out and get everything super hot, that will make that area the weakest point on the bike. I cut my CR apart and fixed a crack and reinforced it over 10 years ago. Luckily like I said I weld mostly high pressure piping. So I went a bit over board, I sent the frame to the heat treaters along with some piping and made the whole bikes molecules the same now. (No more weak point) oh and it didn’t cost me anything because we already had the oven rented. Just thought I would mention about rewelding things. I love your builds, I am trying to figure what to do next. I have a Cr125 (84) and (82) to convert. I’m just wondering what kinda battery I would need for a couple hours riding in the bush.
Would be great if I had access to something like that.. but given my options and skill level, I figured adding some thick plates and a bunch of weld material without grinding any of it would provide enough additional material to carry the stresses that section is subject to. I have no way of testing this so its really just spray and pray ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
this is the cleanest build I've ever seen, great job man
Much appreciated!
Nice work, very "cyber-looking". You should go with LED beam lights though. 7:50 - That's generally the symbol for daytime running lights (DRL). Low-beam is a reflector with down-pointing rays (always green), high-beam is the blue reflector with horizontal rays.
Real quick and dirty, if we knew what it really takes we would never attempt it. It took me 4 1/2 years to make my new motor. It is 40kw water cooled, with gear reduction.
well if I actually attempted to build my own practical motor from scratch, I'm sure it would take me at least as long or double after I quit halfway through. what kind of motor is it? BLDC, sinosoidal AC?
I cannot unsee those welds
😂
Not sure if your dash is CAN but you could likely rewire your indicators to the same circuit as the bulbs so they flash in time. Great build!
Congrats on all that conduit. And the bike it's in.
thank you! I had my doubts at first but I just kept telling myself "you conduit"
Unbelievable build. I can’t even imagine how many hours you have in this. I am blown away and really appreciate your attention to detail. So much for quick and dirty!
Thanks so much!
I’ve got this motor set up on a atc 70 and a electric bmx, way overpowered for these applications but tonnes of fun
Hey man, very nicely done I gotta say. I have done a fair bit of sheet metal fabricating and if I was making that one part at the top of the false tank there.. I would follow the long straight line along the front of the seat, simply span the area your covering with minimal bends, I like to use construction paper and for a pro finish Bondo is my go to product! Anyways great work, great bike. And the f'n crack about my mother.... earned you my script..lol Cheers Dude!
nice tips! thank you. I'm definitely pretty green with sheet metal work (or any metal work, for that matter)
100% respects for re purpusing something! Thanks for all the vids on this kind of stuff ! I was able to build my own most powerful e scooter in the known world by accident! . I did it by mostly watching your builds ! I use 2 175amp ANDERSON connectors connectors. Per battery. That is a great bike build !
Awesome! I'm glad my videos could be helpful
Installing a charger and mounting the battery above it didn’t make sense to me until I realized you’re going to street ride it. Cool bike, good build, great video.
nice work. may want to drill a hole in the metal battery tray so it doesnt hold water.
Yeah that would be a good idea
You need to put cooling fans from pc under the battery to have cold air for motor and cables unit
I'm planning on doing this same thing so thanks for putting this together !!!
Hope it helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions
Yes, definitely, more info is always good! I'm looking at the kits sold by Electro & Co they are pretty reasonable price, now I'm looking around for a chassis !! I like the Super Moto setup!@@GaiusGarage
Great build, still looking for most inportan question " total cost of build project ? "
Ive been thinking about doing this myself but with surron parts! im guessing that would make it easier because the controller, battery and motor will already work together! just to figure out how to fit it onto the dirt bike!
How about using battery packs for cordless chainsaws?
Been looking for one with this kind of motor. Most of these videos I watch they use the one with it built into the back tire.
This hopefully will help me out when I try to start mine
Looks good!
I'm concerned about water resistance of the controller, but I'm sure you thought of that.
its supposedly IP65 water resistant.. I'm sure the pins and terminal lugs would rust over time with exposure but I would presumably service the bike every year or so
1:30 Makes you appreciate the clever design of the Vespa scooter and its' strength.
Well, after some simple mods qs138 4kWt can pretty easily handle 30+kWt, but stock one definitly sucks doing that
you can definitely do it with liquid cooling but I run 30kW peak through this motor every time I ride without issues. heating only becomes in issue with very aggressive riding
@@GaiusGarage people I know simply put some heat conductive compound, so cooling becomes a lot easier.
Few years ago common combo was improved qs138, VOTOL 200 and 4,5 kWh battery, dirtbikes with it are quite fun.
Also, our electric snowbike manages to push 38kW through this motor, but temperature problem in this case is related to batteries, not the motor
Really impressive build! Really enjoyed watching
Thank you!
Dude - tight build! Been using my Cake Osa+ emoto here in LA as my only vehicle (outside of my pedal bike) and it's a great way to get around. I've been considering doing a DIY build like yours and really appreciate you talking about all the considerations around wiring and the not so fun parts of the build. Any chance that you remember where you picked up those batteries from? Seem like the individual module size could make them pretty useful to a bunch of donor bikes. Thanks again for sharing!
This is an awesome build
Can you build a 4wd trailer designed to be a solar charging station. Maxeon panels have micro inverters. You need 6 panels approx to charge an EV! Conn cted to a Wallbox style charger. A trailer you can take camping that can charge your 4wd whilst you lounge about! It could have a battery like a Powerwall as well that could charge while your driving to be used for cooking etc. Compact so that when you stop the rest of the panels fold out or can be pulled out and lie on the ground connected by decent cables.
I'm sure it can be done! I've seen similar builds on youtube
Looking good. Water/mud inclusions will be a future problem with lower wire box, horn, maybe charger fan. How do i know... been there, enjoy. :)
so glad you don't think about that weld job anymore. Peace of mind is nice.
I would have used the stock gas tank & cut the bottom off (out?), except the mounts. Making it into a panel/cover would fit to seat & frame.
this was the original plan, but it was such a bad fit for the setup and it would require more alteration where it was easier to just built something from scratch
Super nice build!
Thank you!
@@GaiusGarage which Qs motor is that and what is your gearing?
QS138 90H motor direct drive. I don't actually remember the gearing, something like 5:1
I’m no expert but it looked like you had wires rubbing against the suspension spring?
Very well done for your V 1.0. Cheers from OZ
Thank you, sir!
Badass build man, that battery is just amazing.
Thanks so much!
How good you are with that 3d printer that “tank cover” would look nice in plastic from your printer.
yeah that would definitely be a better option since this tank is not load-bearing. But it would be difficult to get the dimensions and anchor points right in CAD - would have to scan the frame or do a lot of iteration. I think the better approach in this case would be fiberglass but I dont have any experience with that.. I think if I get some free time, I'll use this as the project to learn how to work with it
Lot issues i see when people build electric bikes or any project is they either don't use proper gauge wire always better to scale up a size even if gauge is capable of the power also to many dont realize how critical temps on batteries and controllers factor in how it will run so think of electronics like computer the lower the temps the longer it will live also batteries are one most looked over i would try to vent the battery case if possible if ur not going to ride in water or bad environment it would be a benefit it help with sag hot batteries will sag quicker ive use small computer fans in projects in battery cases as exhaust and on the controllers also may add so flare of scoup to direct air towards motor and just lookes just some suggestions keep up great work and have great day.
thank you! yeah active cooling could add some improved efficiency here but also more complexity. in general, all components tend to stay within range in terms of temperature and 4AWG wire is definitely adequate
Try larger indicators and excellent build
What screen is that fir battery monitoring at the end in the gas tank cover?
just search "shunt display" on Amazon
Hi, neat build, can see you put a LOT of thought into this, A few questions if I may?
On the charger wires, You have them going into the cabling box, does this box have a weep hole on it? The reason I ask is because there are no drip loops for any condensation (water) that may run down them, (I did not see any weather proofing grommets on those wires where they entered the box).
This could cause the box to trap condensation which could lead to corrosion on those contacts of the plugs inside that box. The only other thing is where the phase wires pass, very close to the shock spring which moves quite a bit, I understand wiring code say that wires need to compress rather than stretch all good with that, and I understand you would not want sharps bends or tight pinches in them, is there possibly another route for those?
Other than that..... MAD MAD MAD respect to the attention in detail you have put into the build.... Very very very nice!
Nice job! I have a question relating the contacter. You run a DC-DC converter i suppose?. However how do switch on the contacter with 12v when the battery is disconnecter (aka contacter is open)? Or is your dc-dc converter positioned before the contacter? Thanks
This is a good question and Ive gone down the road with the handful of solutions. The solution I decided best fits this particular bike (and probably most smaller builds) is to run the high-voltage input through the key switch and to a solid-state relay that powers the dc-dc converter. because the voltage is high and running power of the relay very low (only about 5W) the current in the input line is extremely very low (less than 0.1 amp) so its ok for it run through the switch directly. this way, when you turn the key, it activates the solid state relay, which allows current to flow to the dc-dc converter and power the 12V electronics, one of which is the contactor. I have a video showing the power converter module used on this bike here: ua-cam.com/video/8BG9ZxA9hz8/v-deo.htmlsi=S5j4sZa6yZIZbZqH
@@GaiusGarage thanks this has been most helpful!
Looks great!
Although the front tread is on backwards.
seems that way but the tire shows the rotation direction. it's definitely on correctly
Very clean work. keep it up!
thank you!
Great job, all looks amazing! Do you have any idea of the total cost?
Its hard to say.. I didnt really keep track of all the minor items, cost of metal etc. I also sold the engine from this bike and a few other parts (but not all). In general, it probably cost on the order of $3k, maybe a bit more if you dig into the nitty gritty
Very nice build
Did you go with the 84vdc or 96vdc setup? 24s is 86v. I am starting on a similar build but with a hub motor. Was thinking QS is my best bet. Do you know anything better that is cheaper? Looking to go with the 8kw motor set. Thanks and cheers
84V - it's better to size the controller where your max battery voltage is close to the max voltage of the controller to get the most out of flux weakening. QS is definitely the way to go for a hub motor - not too many quality alternatives as far as I know. good luck on your build!
@@GaiusGarage thanks. I have a channel but its more off grid solar and homesteading. Thanks again
@@frankz1125I checked it out. Really good stuff! Im really into that kind of stuff as well. putting a water storage tank on my property currently
@@GaiusGarage it's a good idea to some what prepared. Stay safe
Awesome build! 👌
Not afraid you get water on your bus bar ?
Verre cool build i love it
Thank you! To which bus bar are you referring?
I'm not even into motorbikes but I like ebikes, and I'd probably love this. I also like anything well made and this was really well made (the bike and the vid). Instant sub
Much appreciated!!
Awesome build! I'm trying to put something similar together, I'm using the same battery setup and am wondering what charger you're using. Seems like it's tricky to find a charger that can output the 100 volts needed for the pack.
Outstanding videos. I am blown away and inspired by the quality of your projects and videos. I will be following your channel closely, outstanding job
Thank you, sir! Much appreciated.
I love the math meme from Off Topic.
Not what I had in mind for a build, but cool to see it's doable with the KLX250sf. Currently looking for a rolling frame for cheap, because the SurRon I want is as expensive as a legal bike.. 🤔
Thank you! yeah KLX was not an idea frame for a conversion lol
Might need a rear chain guide, rather than a tensioner?
Color balance, a rough guide 60 : 30 : 10
I think you should 3d print the tank. I think it would look great if done that way
the quick and dirty build meme in the beginning hit me hard because i'm a few months in my quick and dirty build :p. but in the end nice build man looks good!
haha yeah I think you need the skill of master craftsman to actually manage a "quick and dirty build"
It needs a cooling system to keep the motor cool. Like a radiator, even a electrical car or a motor bike has some sort of cooling to it
Not so necessary on this build. the motor does get warm if you ride aggressively but you really have to ride it like you stole it before the motor overheats
I am loving the Removable Battery design. it would make maintenance and emergency refills faster.
great build don't know when I will build mine
Lovely project work. How does it perform on road with the heavy battery pack in a vertical stacked position in what seems to be a relatively high centre of gravity for a motorcycle of this type?
Glad I wasn't drinking beer.....it would have sprayed over the PC screen on that closing line!!!! Hilarious.
Awesome build.
Lol much appreciated!
Don’t know anything about building batteries, but if you putting a bunch on little batteries together to make a pack, could they be put into a more organic shape at the very bottom of the frame. Then have the controller and stuff above for a lower CG? Only ever see people make packs in a big box, then struggle to place it.
Nice job! Wish I could do something like this but where I live, in Belgium, it's almost impossible to make it road legal.
Thank you! yeah I keep hearing this about certain European countries. It's quite unfortunate when bureaucracies are set up in such a way where they disenfranchise people from using skill and ingenuity to facilitate their needs
I feel for people who dont have freedoms
18:42 got me real good
Sick build! Insane skills.
Thank you, sir!
Neat install. Good work
Awesome build, could you explain why you chose mid-drive over hub drive? I understand that it can provide more torque and allows you to take advantage of gears, but penciling out my own build, it seems like hub drive is both cheaper and simpler. I think the big reason I want to go mid drive is because it’s cooler 😅 but I’d love more reasons to justify it. Thanks, your attention to detail is crazy and the build is super clean
Much appreciated! Its definitely a pro/con for hub vs mid-drive. Hub motors are simpler, quiet, maybe cheaper, and you have more room for the battery pack. The downside (especially for motorcycles) is a ton of weight unsprung in the rear wheel, having to deal with a really heavy wheel with giant wires coming out of it if/when you get a flat, then worst of all is accounting for with the huge forces on the dropouts. And as you mentioned, you cant really change the gearing and thus top speed other than by increasing voltage or using flux weakening.
In what way are hubs cheaper for you? I went down the rabbit hole and it was almost twice the price for my specs compared to mid
Outstanding ! No greater satisfaction than conceiving, then creating your Vision. 🥂
How is battery/motor cooled ?
for sure! motor and battery are just air cooled.. no active cooling basically, but motor stays reasobly cool and battery is operating at probably 50% capacity so no issues with overheating at all
Great video and good humor too! I've always wanted to do something similar, converting a dual sport to electric.
Could you add some cooling vents for the battery?
I could but this pack is not particularly stressed by the load so cooling is not necessary so far
Came out sweet! Great job.
Thank you!
Really good job man...!
Thank you!
are you happy with the battery placement and the weight distribution?
yeah, bike feels really light & handling is quite good. ideally the battery would be set low in the frame but there was just no way to do it with this shape without cutting the frame even more than I already did. I could've used a a pack made from 18650 cells where I could custom design the shape but I didn't want to make the effort for this build
Genuinely Impressive. (Talaria Sting owner.)
Great build!
This is the "Longrun" 1.5kW charger
This is awesome, By the way just use auto body filler just to get rid of the seam imperfections.