I still can't figure out what size to order. My Cowboy boots are 8EE. Tried 8.5D for a while, but after break in they are a bit long. Yet still tight around the mid foot. Now I have to add some tape on my heel to get those to fit. Sneakers are 9.5 since I have a bit of wide feet in the front. JK boots recommends 8EE, but after talking with Truman. They suggested an 8D. I'm not too sure about that. I am thinking about just getting some Red Wing Blacksmith's first. There is a store right down the road from me and I could get a good idea on my boot size. Been dealing with plantar fasciitis for years. I started wearing some Ariat cowboy boots a few months ago. it seems like the stiffer, less cushioned boot causes less swelling and pain in my foot by the end of the day.
Excellent review and information! I really like the 56 last and it's my favorite of what Truman has to offer with respect to their service boot style. I find the 79 last to be too narrow at the toe, and the top view (looking down) on the boot is too symmetrical and kind of tube shaped (for lack of a better description). The silhouette on the 56 last is more sleek and attractive from the side and top view, and with the increased width at the ball and the overall longer toe length, the fit is generally better for most people. I would say that the fit and silhouette is similar to White's MP last (maybe in between White's MP and 50/50 last, but the 56 last doesn't have any real arch support like White's). Your recommendation about sizing is what I experienced as well. I go TTS on the 79 last, 1/2 size down from Brannock for the 20 last, and 1/2 size down for the 56 last as well. My initial thought was the the 56 last was too long, but realized later that the fit is perfect because the ball of the foot matches perfectly at 1/2 size down with where it's supposed to be.
I would like to see red wing lasts used as a comparison to judge other lasts on, since they are kind of the benchmark most people are familiar with. Consensus or reddit is the 79 last fits half size smaller than the 8 last from RW for example.
You cannot size down on the 79. In fact I’m of the opinion that you need to size up 1/2 in length, not width. I’m an 11.5D with some toe splay and the 79 in 11.5EE was too short and had no room for my big toe. It also had too much room in ball. So clearly your “stubby toe” comments are spot on. There isn’t any toe room at all in that Last. I’ll never buy it again. 20 Last works well for me TTS, but I also enjoy it 1/2 up in length for wearing with thick socks.
Much agreed, I ended up going TTS on the 79, and tried a half size up as well with poor results despite never needing a wide width in any footwear to date. So in my case, with a higher volume foot I had to go to an EE width to get a good fit. The leather type may also play a roll, the size I settled on in my 5oz Java Waxed Flesh boots did not fit with a 7oz Seidel variant. I found the 79 to be awkwardly designed, wide in the heel, and narrow from the waist forward. And obviously if you are expecting any significant amount of arch support from that last, just don't. If memory serves the 79 last was not their own originally, I recall reading that it was purchased from another footwear company that went bankrupt. The new lasts are apparently much better, and as mentioned not inexpensive , which makes this nonsense about ceasing production of heritage boots laughable in my opinion. They've moved twice to set up shop in an area with the workers they need, and invested heavily in the machines that allow them to produce the easier to make and more profitable GYW boots compared to their stitchdown models. And they did all this at GREAT expense. If I had a farm like Truman's profane, angry/frustrated owner, I'd bet it that we see few significant changes from them in 2025. The rumors certainly seem to have fueled a LOT of sales though...
i find the 79 last is too restrictive in the instep . i wear red wing IR in 9.5d but my new coyote roughout 9.5 d is very tight in the mid section vs IR. is the 56 more voluminous
What is it like in the cone area? I generally have an average instep except for a slightly raised tarsal boss. I don't notice much difference between the 79 and 56 in the in-step, but I also don't have a ton of volume there, so I'm not terribly sensitive enough to comment well on that.
I only own a 79 last and I find the fit physically ok, but I do really dislike the shape of the toebox. I find it kind of an ugly stubby almond. I wish I could have got the 20 last, which seems a bit closer to a munson style last that I prefer, but they are so limited with their leather options.
Thank you for taking the time to make this. It's definitely the most informative video I've seen on the topic. I'm not personally in the market for another pair of Truman's, but they are all the rage at the moment with a following that's devoted to say the least, and they will continue to get some interest from new buyers, and people like me who became automatically interested in them when I was looking to make my first higher end boot purchase but limited in options since many makers don't produce anything above a size 13 (I'm a 13.5 D Brannock and wear a size 14 in most casual and dress footwear). I ended up going TTS on the 79, and tried a half size up as well with poor results despite never needing a wide width in any footwear previously. So in my case, with a higher volume foot I had to go to an EE width to get a good fit. The leather type may also play a role, the size I settled on in my 5oz Java Waxed Flesh boots did not fit with a 7oz Seidel "Double Shot" variant. I found the 79 to be awkwardly designed, wide in the heel, and narrow from the waist forward. And obviously if you are expecting any significant amount of arch support from that last, just don't. If memory serves the 79 last was not their own originally, I recall reading that it was purchased from another footwear company that went bankrupt. The new lasts are apparently much better, and as mentioned not inexpensive to have produced, which makes this nonsense about ceasing production of heritage boots laughable in my opinion. They've moved twice to set up shop in an area with the workers they need, and invested heavily in the machines that allow them to produce the easier to make and more profitable GYW boots compared to their original stitchdown models. And they did all this at GREAT expense. If I had a farm like Truman's profane, angry/frustrated owner, I'd bet every acre that we see few significant changes from them in 2025. Keep tabs on their Terms and Conditions, they have changed dramatically this year alone. Refunds used to be held for 15 business days, thats now reduced to 10 (Likely due to pressure from Grant Stone, who issues refunds in 3 days MAX). The restocking fee used to be "Rarely applied," that language is now gone. Not that it ever mattered, if you do something they don't like as I did (Ordering multiple pairs in different sizes to bypass what was then a month long return process) and arent in the 5+ pair club, you'll learn about their restocking fee at the end of the process, when your refund amount is $30 per pair less than what you paid. You not only won't get your full refund, you won't get a reason why either. They also have a two-pair limit per order now, which was not in effect when I purchased mine earlier this year. Ultimately I kept a $480 pair of Java 79s, who knows what they do to customers who order from them but don't actually keep their purchase. It goes without saying they don't like to produce any large sizes for reasons that are fairly self-explanatory. All of that's a non-issue now, I haven't seen anything over a size 12 in inventory in many months. Only one thing that can really be said about Truman with any certainty: The owner's madman-adjacent ramblings and the accompanying rumors certainly seem to have fueled a LOT of sales of late...
I have boots in the 20 and 79 and three pairs of derby shoes in the 55 nothing in the new 56. The 79 is not nearly as stubby as the 20 and I have boots with 360’ welts in both 79 and 20. As far as the stiffener in the toe, it’s at the toe the rest of the stiffness is because the lining in the vamp comes from a thick fully veg tan lining. One should buy for their feet. 20 is not an attempt at all moc toe, don’t confuse pattern with last two very different things, heel is a D and toes/vamp is an E in the 20 last, the 79 is D heel to Toe. Every time you go up a width you add 1\8” or approx 2mm which changes the total volume in square inches\millimetres. Just my two cents I have 30+ pairs of Truman boots. All their boots unless specifically specified have two piece back stays. If they double down on anything it will be the 79, it out sells all their boots lasts by magnitudes of volume as far as I can tell, the remodelled 55 to 56 has only been made available again in the last 60 days. Their customer service as far as questions on sizing, leathers, lasts and care has been great in my experience and I live near Toronto, Canada🇨🇦. Be diligent be fore you by, I see people buying boots from all kinds of companies purchasing and returning multiple pairs over and over which they have to resell as a B GRADE one it has been tried on, every return is a profit loss for these small makers. Get your Brannok measurement, get your heel to ball measurement and get a tape measure and get an average volume. If your feet are that difficult you probably need Made To Order or Custom, Truman is Off The Shelf. This is just some more info to help along new buyers, id say one thing though, they may be making some changes but they do sell hundreds of boots a week and have a super loyal customer base, I think they will move toward having a set standard availability of top models of all time and sell a few specialty leathers each month. For example selling Java Waxed Flesh in a few patterns 7 days a week or Dark Coyote Roughout then have one or two “exotic’ leathers or collector boots each month. Love the boots, great content.😎🤘🇨🇦
Great video. My first 79 lasts boot i order half size down it was way to tight then i got my natural size without sizing down and fit was perfect.
Glad you found your size!
Great video. Keep up the fine work.
Very helpful and well spoken
Subscribed 👍
Appreciate it!
I still can't figure out what size to order. My Cowboy boots are 8EE. Tried 8.5D for a while, but after break in they are a bit long. Yet still tight around the mid foot. Now I have to add some tape on my heel to get those to fit. Sneakers are 9.5 since I have a bit of wide feet in the front. JK boots recommends 8EE, but after talking with Truman. They suggested an 8D. I'm not too sure about that. I am thinking about just getting some Red Wing Blacksmith's first. There is a store right down the road from me and I could get a good idea on my boot size. Been dealing with plantar fasciitis for years. I started wearing some Ariat cowboy boots a few months ago. it seems like the stiffer, less cushioned boot causes less swelling and pain in my foot by the end of the day.
I've always gone TTS on the 79 & 20 last, but I'm looking forward to trying a 56 last in half size down to see it works
It’s probably rare to go down but certainly possible
I’m all for thick tongue leathers
I needed tts in 20 and 79. Haven't tried the 56 last yet.
Excellent review and information! I really like the 56 last and it's my favorite of what Truman has to offer with respect to their service boot style. I find the 79 last to be too narrow at the toe, and the top view (looking down) on the boot is too symmetrical and kind of tube shaped (for lack of a better description). The silhouette on the 56 last is more sleek and attractive from the side and top view, and with the increased width at the ball and the overall longer toe length, the fit is generally better for most people. I would say that the fit and silhouette is similar to White's MP last (maybe in between White's MP and 50/50 last, but the 56 last doesn't have any real arch support like White's). Your recommendation about sizing is what I experienced as well. I go TTS on the 79 last, 1/2 size down from Brannock for the 20 last, and 1/2 size down for the 56 last as well. My initial thought was the the 56 last was too long, but realized later that the fit is perfect because the ball of the foot matches perfectly at 1/2 size down with where it's supposed to be.
Appreciate the comparison!
Was supposed to be Dome
I would like to see red wing lasts used as a comparison to judge other lasts on, since they are kind of the benchmark most people are familiar with. Consensus or reddit is the 79 last fits half size smaller than the 8 last from RW for example.
like the denim with the plaid lining, can you id please?
Oh I love them. Bonobos flannel fireside jeans
bonobos.com/products/flannel-lined-jean?color=blue%20rinse&pant-waist=35
You cannot size down on the 79. In fact I’m of the opinion that you need to size up 1/2 in length, not width. I’m an 11.5D with some toe splay and the 79 in 11.5EE was too short and had no room for my big toe. It also had too much room in ball. So clearly your “stubby toe” comments are spot on. There isn’t any toe room at all in that Last. I’ll never buy it again. 20 Last works well for me TTS, but I also enjoy it 1/2 up in length for wearing with thick socks.
Yeah, I saw your farewell to 79 video. Great video!
Much agreed, I ended up going TTS on the 79, and tried a half size up as well with poor results despite never needing a wide width in any footwear to date. So in my case, with a higher volume foot I had to go to an EE width to get a good fit. The leather type may also play a roll, the size I settled on in my 5oz Java Waxed Flesh boots did not fit with a 7oz Seidel variant. I found the 79 to be awkwardly designed, wide in the heel, and narrow from the waist forward. And obviously if you are expecting any significant amount of arch support from that last, just don't.
If memory serves the 79 last was not their own originally, I recall reading that it was purchased from another footwear company that went bankrupt. The new lasts are apparently much better, and as mentioned not inexpensive , which makes this nonsense about ceasing production of heritage boots laughable in my opinion. They've moved twice to set up shop in an area with the workers they need, and invested heavily in the machines that allow them to produce the easier to make and more profitable GYW boots compared to their stitchdown models. And they did all this at GREAT expense. If I had a farm like Truman's profane, angry/frustrated owner, I'd bet it that we see few significant changes from them in 2025.
The rumors certainly seem to have fueled a LOT of sales though...
@@BWM135 ya I’m done with the 79 Last. Sold the pair I bought that didn’t fit well. The 20 Last is superior in all aspects. Fit, looks, vibe.
i find the 79 last is too restrictive in the instep . i wear red wing IR in 9.5d but my new coyote roughout 9.5 d is very tight in the mid section vs IR. is the 56 more voluminous
What is it like in the cone area? I generally have an average instep except for a slightly raised tarsal boss. I don't notice much difference between the 79 and 56 in the in-step, but I also don't have a ton of volume there, so I'm not terribly sensitive enough to comment well on that.
I like the grant stone video btw
🙏
There are boots go wear them and send to some to be viewed.
So, did you size down from Brannock in 56 last, or did you go true to size?
TTS and am happy with it
@ thank you! That’s very helpful. I’m trying to figure out my 56 last size. I had to size up a half from Brannock in 79. TTS in 20. Imagine that!
I only own a 79 last and I find the fit physically ok, but I do really dislike the shape of the toebox. I find it kind of an ugly stubby almond. I wish I could have got the 20 last, which seems a bit closer to a munson style last that I prefer, but they are so limited with their leather options.
Limited 20 options? Yeah. Just ordered another 20 last myself w their recent MTO
Thank you for taking the time to make this. It's definitely the most informative video I've seen on the topic. I'm not personally in the market for another pair of Truman's, but they are all the rage at the moment with a following that's devoted to say the least, and they will continue to get some interest from new buyers, and people like me who became automatically interested in them when I was looking to make my first higher end boot purchase but limited in options since many makers don't produce anything above a size 13 (I'm a 13.5 D Brannock and wear a size 14 in most casual and dress footwear).
I ended up going TTS on the 79, and tried a half size up as well with poor results despite never needing a wide width in any footwear previously. So in my case, with a higher volume foot I had to go to an EE width to get a good fit. The leather type may also play a role, the size I settled on in my 5oz Java Waxed Flesh boots did not fit with a 7oz Seidel "Double Shot" variant. I found the 79 to be awkwardly designed, wide in the heel, and narrow from the waist forward. And obviously if you are expecting any significant amount of arch support from that last, just don't.
If memory serves the 79 last was not their own originally, I recall reading that it was purchased from another footwear company that went bankrupt. The new lasts are apparently much better, and as mentioned not inexpensive to have produced, which makes this nonsense about ceasing production of heritage boots laughable in my opinion. They've moved twice to set up shop in an area with the workers they need, and invested heavily in the machines that allow them to produce the easier to make and more profitable GYW boots compared to their original stitchdown models. And they did all this at GREAT expense. If I had a farm like Truman's profane, angry/frustrated owner, I'd bet every acre that we see few significant changes from them in 2025.
Keep tabs on their Terms and Conditions, they have changed dramatically this year alone. Refunds used to be held for 15 business days, thats now reduced to 10 (Likely due to pressure from Grant Stone, who issues refunds in 3 days MAX). The restocking fee used to be "Rarely applied," that language is now gone. Not that it ever mattered, if you do something they don't like as I did (Ordering multiple pairs in different sizes to bypass what was then a month long return process) and arent in the 5+ pair club, you'll learn about their restocking fee at the end of the process, when your refund amount is $30 per pair less than what you paid. You not only won't get your full refund, you won't get a reason why either. They also have a two-pair limit per order now, which was not in effect when I purchased mine earlier this year.
Ultimately I kept a $480 pair of Java 79s, who knows what they do to customers who order from them but don't actually keep their purchase.
It goes without saying they don't like to produce any large sizes for reasons that are fairly self-explanatory. All of that's a non-issue now, I haven't seen anything over a size 12 in inventory in many months.
Only one thing that can really be said about Truman with any certainty:
The owner's madman-adjacent ramblings and the accompanying rumors certainly seem to have fueled a LOT of sales of late...
Thanks for sharing your experience
I have boots in the 20 and 79 and three pairs of derby shoes in the 55 nothing in the new 56. The 79 is not nearly as stubby as the 20 and I have boots with 360’ welts in both 79 and 20. As far as the stiffener in the toe, it’s at the toe the rest of the stiffness is because the lining in the vamp comes from a thick fully veg tan lining. One should buy for their feet. 20 is not an attempt at all moc toe, don’t confuse pattern with last two very different things, heel is a D and toes/vamp is an E in the 20 last, the 79 is D heel to Toe. Every time you go up a width you add 1\8” or approx 2mm which changes the total volume in square inches\millimetres. Just my two cents I have 30+ pairs of Truman boots. All their boots unless specifically specified have two piece back stays. If they double down on anything it will be the 79, it out sells all their boots lasts by magnitudes of volume as far as I can tell, the remodelled 55 to 56 has only been made available again in the last 60 days. Their customer service as far as questions on sizing, leathers, lasts and care has been great in my experience and I live near Toronto, Canada🇨🇦. Be diligent be fore you by, I see people buying boots from all kinds of companies purchasing and returning multiple pairs over and over which they have to resell as a B GRADE one it has been tried on, every return is a profit loss for these small makers. Get your Brannok measurement, get your heel to ball measurement and get a tape measure and get an average volume. If your feet are that difficult you probably need Made To Order or Custom, Truman is Off The Shelf. This is just some more info to help along new buyers, id say one thing though, they may be making some changes but they do sell hundreds of boots a week and have a super loyal customer base, I think they will move toward having a set standard availability of top models of all time and sell a few specialty leathers each month. For example selling Java Waxed Flesh in a few patterns 7 days a week or Dark Coyote Roughout then have one or two “exotic’ leathers or collector boots each month.
Love the boots, great content.😎🤘🇨🇦
🙏
excellent information. i have a question when you go up 1/2 size in D what is the increase in length/width. e.g from a 9.5D to a 10D.
Sorry I can't sit through anymore Carl, Rose anvil, Teik boot videos subject is getting bored. Sorry it was you who I texted to I did text them also