Without silicon on a Kohler sink, it's gonna leak - Use 100% clear silicone on top of the white seals. Wait an hour before testing. Don't overtighten. Fixed it.
Why is it impossible to find information on how to connect the tail piece to the p trap? Why wouldn’t you include this? The tail piece is not pvc, so pvc cement will not work. It also has no threads. What do you use?
The botom end of the tailpiece goes down into the PVC trap, and uses a compressing ring/gasket to connect to the trap. First put the threaded ring (usually chrome, sometimes plastic) and gasket (usually a white slightly transparent plastic) on the non-threaded end of the tailpiece (both facing down), then insert the tailpiece into the trap and tighten the ring. This is not a high pressure connection. Gravity pulls the water down through the trap. The compression seal is just for it the trap is clogged or backed up.
I was going to get one of those pop-up drains but I think it's nasty that you have to use your fingers to pop it back open after it's full of dirty water
This is a ridiculous video: the problems start exactly where the drain ends. The drain is somewhere between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 outer diameter. The p-traps are expecting about 1.5". If it's less than it slips. This slips [mechanically]. and leaks [hydraulically].
![How To Install Bathroom Sink Drain/Faucet, No Leaks Under Gasket, Threads [SOLVED] 2023](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mTmUO-0ELps/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Install Bathroom Sink Drain/Faucet, No Leaks Under Gasket, Threads [SOLVED] 2023](/img/tr.png)
You know you’re in trouble when the white gloves come out
Without silicon on a Kohler sink, it's gonna leak - Use 100% clear silicone on top of the white seals. Wait an hour before testing. Don't overtighten. Fixed it.
Excellent. Thanks.
Why is it impossible to find information on how to connect the tail piece to the p trap? Why wouldn’t you include this? The tail piece is not pvc, so pvc cement will not work. It also has no threads. What do you use?
The botom end of the tailpiece goes down into the PVC trap, and uses a compressing ring/gasket to connect to the trap. First put the threaded ring (usually chrome, sometimes plastic) and gasket (usually a white slightly transparent plastic) on the non-threaded end of the tailpiece (both facing down), then insert the tailpiece into the trap and tighten the ring. This is not a high pressure connection. Gravity pulls the water down through the trap. The compression seal is just for it the trap is clogged or backed up.
@@jeffh33333thanks man. I was frustrated like the first commenter, appreciate your reply.
@@datsyukiancircus dude same, i have been struggling to find a correct piece for the p-trap i have bought over 3 sets and non fit smh
@@nino3929 good luck brotha!
EXACTLY. The Ptrap is expecting a different / larger diameter. The video doesn't discuss this at all.
Do we need silicone or plumbers putty to seal it?
That was my question too.
No
Yes. They say no, but you will. Use 100% clear silicone on top of the white seals. Wait an hour before testing. Don't overtighten.
They come with a rubber seal/washer which eliminates the need of putty or sealant
the seal is ineffective and leaked - the silicone fixed the issue
It will leak like crazy
Why?
@@villageidiot9867He didn’t add plumbers putty on the drain assembly.
@@Mike_S_68There's a gasket on the top. I agree Id use putty, but the gasket should be fine for a long time.
Yea mine is leaking 😅
I was going to get one of those pop-up drains but I think it's nasty that you have to use your fingers to pop it back open after it's full of dirty water
You left out the most confusing part!
No overflow for ceramic
No overflow for drain/plug
This is a ridiculous video: the problems start exactly where the drain ends. The drain is somewhere between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 outer diameter. The p-traps are expecting about 1.5". If it's less than it slips. This slips [mechanically]. and leaks [hydraulically].