Mechanical design engineer here. I work in the steel industry. We have a little saying: “don’t make bathtubs” - means never weld something that could potentially pool water without putting in a drainage hole. Your engine mounts look nice and sturdy to me, but I’d put a little drainage hole in the bottom there.
Is it worth adding a third internal rib (same as outers but trimmed to fit, with top tabs) to help reduce vibrational fatiguing forces and plate off the top of the mount (including hole for receiving centre tabs)?
Hey Legends, I'm was a Marine Engineer in the Australian Army, I worked quite a lot on out open water dual hull SharkCat. It had twin Mercury Verados as well. I would investigate the FSU (Fuel Supply Units) on both engines before you launch into the water. This job is not too hard to swap the FSU out, but you need to be on dry dock.
Just a thought Chris, you should consider mounting a bilge pump inside the hot tub compartment before you mount the hot tub shell. I think your future self will thank you for providing a way to vacate the water that may or may not get in there.
Hi Chris, I think that a Transom Plate across the entire rear would be the way to go, since this will transfer the pushing force of the engine to the boat more evenly. Single transom plates will cause more stress on your structure ...
Im a marine outboard technician. I wouldnt have gone with used mercs but thats more of a personal preference. Make sure all the services are done. Id go down the service chart and do each and every thing regardless of the previous owner or seller said they were done. Id also get in contact with a merc dealer and make sure all the recall work was done. Also idk what the salt content is in the water over there, but id also replace every anode.
You could add a "skid plate" along the whole bottom, joining the 2 inner pontoons from the hottub enclosure all the way to the transom at the back, and it would add a lot of buoyancy, stability and storage, and it would be a big flat trimaran and give you a better flow of water over the propellers.
Agreed! The "skidplate" idea is a good one....and if not for storage...just shoot it full of closed cell foam and make it so the God dahm thing literally can't sink even if they tried!
200kW per engine is a lot of power. Don’t want to sound pessimistic, but in my case 150hp (100kW) engine ripped out a similar welded-in engine mount from my “conventional” alu-boat after a few years. I’d really consider additional struts and braces to ensure the lower weld seam does not crack the pontoon. Thinking out loud.
I still think you should finish weld the bottom strakes that don't connect between the pontoons. Buy two engines setback brackets and tie both engine mounts to each other as a solid Transom. You need a good two to three inch thick transom that ties to all four of the pontoons.
You should look into maybe getting a manual or a hydraulic jackplate for your outboards. If you want the pontoonboat to go faster, that might be needed.
This makes me want to build my own pontoon! I think Jiggin with Jordan has a pretty cool pontoon/houseboat. would be so cool to see a hybrid of your idea and his.
A boat mechanic from Germany. The attachment of the engines will not work like that. It's like attaching a Formula 1 engine to a balloon. The engine attachment is much stronger than the pontoon, so the pontoon will deform in the first bend and break everything. I first have to do a proper force calculation and see how the forces are introduced and distributed throughout the entire hull. Otherwise the aluminum will break on the first or second trip.
@@thomaskamp9365 Agree. The structural element also contributes to buoyancy which is also not good. Also I’m not sure how the aluminum will fatigue with the vibrations. You have a large span with two very heavy elements on either end.
@@thomaskamp9365 well said. At a minimum the sides of the mount should be extended downwards to tie into the pieces welded to the bottom of the pontoon tube. However I think he said that this is a typical mounting method for other pontoon boats so maybe the tubes and cap are much stronger than they appear?
I’m looking forward to seeing this thing motoring through the water. I honestly think it’s going to be really cool for what you want it to do. Good luck. You have a knack for making crazy stuff work, and I support the chaos. I still have the sticker to prove it.
Chris insulating the hot tub is a must believe me 😮😮😮... been there done that.. so do that and the cabin don't spare monet on the insulating!!,,,,,,😊😊😊😊
I’ve been watching you since your backyard videos. During the Datsun build I had serious doubts and concerns if you would finish that build. I’ve since learned that you get it done even when the chips are down. The boat looks very interesting. Much good luck going forward
Consider putting ski runners under the outside pontoons to turn this into a pontoon hydrofoil to reduce drag on plane. Have the engine mounts able to drop down when on plane on skis, the power trim that also allows vertical movement so you can adjust engine out drive height on the fly which addresses shallow water performance. Please consider the name this the Disco Volante II
Hey Chris, the yacht is considered 'inboard' motors as they are inside of the hull. These are certainly not inboard in the slightest... but they are central outboard I believe
I was on a catamaran recently and noticed it had an analog depth gauge. Well, digital read out, but analog depth sonar that could read through fiberglass. Pretty accurate as we hit a sandbar from being distracted. Worth considering these quality of life gadgets.
I suggest you mount the engines on a vertical lift system where you can adjust the depth of your prop depth. I’ve seen these systems on boats in the puget sound for low tide access to shallow areas. It eliminates the tiliting for transport too, you just raise it higher. Also, do NOT enclose your engines! You will trap your exhaust fumes which can starve your engines and possibly go BOOM!
Good choice on ob choice - cheap and plentiful parts… still lots of new-in-crate floating around… might I suggest jackplates… far easier to adjust on the fly when the time comes… and that time will…. ( 3 cats and 8 jackplates myself )
Hello!! I was watching the series on the pontoon hatch, awesome. I would like to suggest one thing though, keeping in mind the purpose of this (party, people) I loved the length of it, but it didn’t sit right with me that it was super long, but were kind of limited on width. I understand the limitation ( parking spot!) , but was thinking that you could extend the width if you add 90 degree folding floor on the left and right. So when parking you could have them verticle, (saving space, fitting in the parking spot) and while your out and about, you can lower them extending the floor space!!! Doesn’t need to be that much, maybe just a small 2-3 fit walk space outside the furniture??? Just a thought!! Have fun!!
That transom mount on those engines is cast and machined where I work! If you look inside the webbing on the boat side of it, you'll see LSI (LeSueur Inc) cast into it.
bolts are cheap, i promise we will buy good ones. I think i mentioned in the episode we will follow the exact spec size and type bolts from the installation manual
As well as those motors are ticking time bombs. I'm surprised they made it to 1200 hours, you said miles, but im assuming it's hours. Most people wouldn't touch those things with a 100ft pole at that point. Do some reading on them before you get too deep into it. You might want to switch your choice of outboard. There is a reason all of the offshore guys run Suzuki's or Yamahas.
Be sure to have two 55 gallon drums filled with water. Make sure that the prop and about one foot of the engine is pointed down into them. You can burn these engines quick if you dry ran i t...if you haven't thought of a bathroom. On that I'd do it especially just right into the water.
You can use what is called jack plates if your concerned about the height/depth of the props. It gives you a lot of adjustments for outboard engine height and some are motorized to make quick easy adjustments. I don’t know much about boats but I’ve seen them in action on some of my family members boats they are pretty cool.
Engineering is fine, real world is what’s wrong. Outboard engines intake air from the cowl and exhaust through the prop, directly under the motor. Putting the engines in an enclosed space directly above your exhaust is going to cause them to choke on their own exhaust fumes and make a perfect combustion chamber for an expensive explosion if the engines ever backfire. Not to mention you’re going to have a carbon monoxide chamber right under your bathroom/changing room. Stick them in the rear on the outer pontoons or ditch the box over them.
The engine cover is nowhere near the bathroom and won’t seal down to the water. Bad gases are heavier than air plus I’m sure the engine cover will have some sort of air intake.
The outboard with the steering cylinder mounted to it needs to be mounted to the starboard side. If you’ve truly got a pair of outboards, one is standard rotation, and the other (the one without the sea star cylinder) should be a counter rotating engine. Use the model numbers to verify.
The only thing that makes an outboard “counter rotating” is a different prop, and the forward and reverse lever is backwards. The engine itself doesn’t counter rotate.
Having longer pontoons outboard of each engine makes a ton of sense. Adds a great deal of flotation right where it needs to be to keep the stern from squatting under the 1200 lbs weight of the engines. BTW, you'll need a big gas tank -- say 200-300 gallons. Where's that going?
I am still very curious what kind of voltage the hott will need to stay hot??? My hot tub at home needs 220 Volts...Good luck producing that on that boat
A small addition that would increase the strength of the engine mounts would be to extend the lower corners of the mounting out to the edge of the pontoon cylinder cap. This will take bending loads out of the cap sheet material and add to overall strength of the mount overall.
Yes, we have been designing and building alloy boats in NZ for 20 years and have had a couple engine pods give issues on a model that had a design not dissimilar to this and it was as simple to fix as you suggest, the dish in the end on the pontoon might maybe be enough to stop the end plate flexing, if it isn't though it will flex off the pod corner causing a stress raiser which will in turn work harden the alloy at that point and then it will fatigue crack and likely let water into the pontoon. Piece of mind now and spend an hour bracing the pod to the corners. 👌👍
with the engines, are you also going to put in a bow thruster for better steering? May help hold your position when taking it out of water or if there is a side breeze. You could also mount them between the center pontoons and have something to raise and lower them so they are not causing drag when not needed.
Please go Buy two Hydraulic Jack Plates for those Outboards. Also buy or see if Sharrow props will help you Out on the Cost. You want to buy Sharrow Props on this awesome build. Last like a few people said drain plugs for Hot Tub. Don’t forget to use Marine Grade Bilge Pump to bring water into Hot Tub and use same Pump to circulate water in Hot Tub last a Big Bilge to Remove water fast.
500hp is chicken feed for that size lol. We have 4 - 500r's on 36' cats. Damn, we even have 2 - 500r's on tri-toons. 500hp is nothing for that massive toon haha
Have you considered welding diagonals to your floor joists. The wood decking will provide rigidity, but should you supplement that with some diagonals to take pressure off the wood. Just a thought.
I wouldn't forget to put a aluminum band welded over the butt joints on the pontoons. That is a major weak point could see cracking/splitting issues once it hits water with all the weight all over the boat.
Hey Chris, love the channel. The welding fumes created when welding aluminum is a proven carcinogen. Your welders should be wearing proper PPE to protect them from the many ailments, including lung cancer. We just outfitted our welders with PAPR's (Powered Air Purified Respirators) and they love them, no more half masks under the welding helmet. You should reach out to 3M or other mfg's and ask them to sponsor an episode and supply some units for free.
As a precision welder for over 20 years, for that size of engines overkill on the mounts are always a good idea. The motors are only overkill if your a slow driver. I personally think 1 250 is enough. But I like to just cruise on the lake.
like others have said put a drain hole in the bottom of the engine mounts. I would also weld those engine mounts out fully on the inside where they connect to the pontoons.
I know depending on what version the ecu that mounts under the dash where all the main plugs plug in.. the deal will have to have that version of verado program and a laptop. You have to have hydroloc steering helm and electric pump and they're super charged
Hi guys That enginemount should be longer and cover both those inner ponthoons to even out the force's from engine's when not beeing syncrone. They will put individual stress on each ponthoon as is. And i would mount a lot of 45 dg strenghtening beams between the stringers on top to even out force's from the engines and that tub in front, they will fight each other and the outer one's will be pounded by wawes and only have those tiny crossbeams to hold on to, think you will experience a lot of flexing if not, and that will affect everything else you build over deck as well.
Unless they drain it, yup. Weight's a bitch. But the other thing is the void behind it, that's gonna drag it and keep it from planing, I fear. We'll see if my question elsewhere is answered on that, or we see it in reality.
You do realize the hot tub enclosure will still displace much more water than the actual hot tub sitting in it will hold so it will still be buoyant. Plus the 2 engines at the opposite end are at least 1200 lbs dry weight.
@Crewsy And the hot tub is going to weigh 5k+ with water and people. I don't think those things offset like you think they do. Also, neutral buoyancy doesn't just magically reduce drag.
For the steering, can't you go to the electric route? Hydraulics in the back and an electric steering in the "front" also as mentioned a bow truster ;D, drain holes in the motor mounts, bulge pump in the hottub. anbd as an extra a center top plate on the motor mounts.
Comparable boats on the market are reaching very high speeds (40+ mph) with much less HP than we currently have. So i feel comfortable with the 500 mark. My guess is this boat will go faster than im comfortable driving it. But time will tell.
@@BisforBuild 10mph should be faster than youre comfortable going, that thing will be almost impossible to steer without bow thrusters. any 40ft boat going over 40mph with less hp is also way lighter and designed for that speed
Ya, I think the boat would handle better if the engines were on the back of the outer pontoons. But it will be a cool experiment, look forward to seeing how it does "Inboard"
You have been watching too much of the guy that built a catamaran ship from his back yard back in the early 90s. His boat called kaliedescope, amazing. Good luck with your build.
Some of them were right tho, building a yacht on some alluminium pipes does't seem to be the smartest idea. There's a reason why all the world use thick finerglass monocoque for that job
@@PatLures agreed! Out of the thousands of comments on this boat series, there’s bound to be a decent amount that have some weight behind what they’re saying!
Chris I am sure you thought deeply about the weight distribution front to back. I guess you considered travelling with hot tub full? and will it be sometimes empty too? Anyway in my commercial open hull barge I often load front heavy and its okay. Just touchy with the steering trying to get it straight.. It will take getting used to being front or rear heavy. You will want proper front to back weight distribution though-feels better!. You might consider a ballast water tank system, if you want to get fancy.
Mechanical design engineer here. I work in the steel industry. We have a little saying: “don’t make bathtubs” - means never weld something that could potentially pool water without putting in a drainage hole.
Your engine mounts look nice and sturdy to me, but I’d put a little drainage hole in the bottom there.
Came to the comments to say this. 👍
You said it, drainage hole!
I am also glad they noted the engines where the wrong way round, saved a lot of work there
Came to say this too haha
Is it worth adding a third internal rib (same as outers but trimmed to fit, with top tabs) to help reduce vibrational fatiguing forces and plate off the top of the mount (including hole for receiving centre tabs)?
Fo sho
Don’t forget to put something like Tef Gel or Anti Seize on the bolts used to mount your outboards. Aluminum and steel will create galvanic corrosion.
every stainless bolt that goes through aluminum on the boat needs tef gel to stop galvanic corrosion
Hey!! Thanks for the shout out guys! I’m here if you ever need some help with the project.
Chris I think this build is awesome but I would recommend a bow thruster. It going to make moving that beast in tight areas.
Especially with that hot tub in the front.
Excellent suggestion. Front mounted bow thruster makes sense in all the ways.
yep, was gonna say the same
100% you will need a bow thruster
Were about to comment the same.
Hey Legends, I'm was a Marine Engineer in the Australian Army, I worked quite a lot on out open water dual hull SharkCat. It had twin Mercury Verados as well.
I would investigate the FSU (Fuel Supply Units) on both engines before you launch into the water. This job is not too hard to swap the FSU out, but you need to be on dry dock.
ua-cam.com/users/shorts_RpFeRkIfEg?si=AhR_HDedIEJ_rORm
Thanks for the tip ill add it to the list for the refresh!
Sharkcats are awesome little boat, I had zero fear of taking mine in harsh weather it handled everything with ease for its size
Just a thought Chris, you should consider mounting a bilge pump inside the hot tub compartment before you mount the hot tub shell. I think your future self will thank you for providing a way to vacate the water that may or may not get in there.
Hi Chris, I think that a Transom Plate across the entire rear would be the way to go, since this will transfer the pushing force of the engine to the boat more evenly. Single transom plates will cause more stress on your structure ...
Don't forget drain hole on bottom of engine mount
Or just weld some plates on top and make it so not water can get inside!! They could also fill the voind with Expanding foam.
@@codygrinnell8676not practical to do that in case they need to unmount the engine
@@codygrinnell8676 "Water always finds a way in" is a good rule on most cases. Drainage is a good idea.
Im a marine outboard technician. I wouldnt have gone with used mercs but thats more of a personal preference. Make sure all the services are done. Id go down the service chart and do each and every thing regardless of the previous owner or seller said they were done. Id also get in contact with a merc dealer and make sure all the recall work was done. Also idk what the salt content is in the water over there, but id also replace every anode.
Superchargers are usually spent at 1000hrs on those
@@davidmerullo551 exactly, probably why they were sold so cheap. Along with the cosmetic damage.
You could add a "skid plate" along the whole bottom, joining the 2 inner pontoons from the hottub enclosure all the way to the transom at the back, and it would add a lot of buoyancy, stability and storage, and it would be a big flat trimaran and give you a better flow of water over the propellers.
Yup, outboard will catch air
Also work at a structural piece, and possibly stop this frame sinking if they lose 1 or two pontoons
a jack plate would make it run right were he needs it and allow him to run in skinny water if he needs to.
Agreed! The "skidplate" idea is a good one....and if not for storage...just shoot it full of closed cell foam and make it so the God dahm thing literally can't sink even if they tried!
@@rytime700That's a damn good idea. Remember though, bad shit happens to "unsinkable" crafts lol. Foam would make it a lot harder tho thats for sure!
Make sure your hot tub has its own bilge under it. Nothing like getting a leak you dont know about to ruin your trip or your boat.
200kW per engine is a lot of power. Don’t want to sound pessimistic, but in my case 150hp (100kW) engine ripped out a similar welded-in engine mount from my “conventional” alu-boat after a few years. I’d really consider additional struts and braces to ensure the lower weld seam does not crack the pontoon. Thinking out loud.
I still think you should finish weld the bottom strakes that don't connect between the pontoons. Buy two engines setback brackets and tie both engine mounts to each other as a solid Transom. You need a good two to three inch thick transom that ties to all four of the pontoons.
You should look into maybe getting a manual or a hydraulic jackplate for your outboards. If you want the pontoonboat to go faster, that might be needed.
As a marine technician, all I can say is good luck with two 1200 hour verados. Not the move I would have made, but, it'll make for good content 😂
Oh man….yep.
I concur
Make sure you link us your pontoon build. Love to see your proof of work
Yah there is a reason those were sold at those hours
It's like the flybridge off a yacht, on a dock, with motors. Admittedly, the flybridge is always the best place to be.
You can buy the steering system from seastar to have them go whatever direction you want independently fyi.
Great idea for maneuvering in tight spaces. 👍
Always a pleasure to be here and glad to see you hot glueing more Aluminum and horsepower to (our) party boat.
This stage would be an excellent opportunity to create some plates that lock all four pontoons together then. Mount the engines 😊
This makes me want to build my own pontoon! I think Jiggin with Jordan has a pretty cool pontoon/houseboat. would be so cool to see a hybrid of your idea and his.
I’m loving this build and can’t wait to see it on water no matter what the results may be.
This is sosooo badass, i find myself waiting patiently for the new vid drop with construction on this beast
40ft long, 500hp with 1000+ lbs of water in the bow. What could go wrong.
Oh, this thing is going down way faster than the titanic
My 24 foot surf boat has over 500hp. This is was too small for hp.
A boat mechanic from Germany. The attachment of the engines will not work like that. It's like attaching a Formula 1 engine to a balloon. The engine attachment is much stronger than the pontoon, so the pontoon will deform in the first bend and break everything.
I first have to do a proper force calculation and see how the forces are introduced and distributed throughout the entire hull. Otherwise the aluminum will break on the first or second trip.
@@thomaskamp9365 Agree. The structural element also contributes to buoyancy which is also not good. Also I’m not sure how the aluminum will fatigue with the vibrations. You have a large span with two very heavy elements on either end.
@@thomaskamp9365 well said. At a minimum the sides of the mount should be extended downwards to tie into the pieces welded to the bottom of the pontoon tube. However I think he said that this is a typical mounting method for other pontoon boats so maybe the tubes and cap are much stronger than they appear?
I’m looking forward to seeing this thing motoring through the water. I honestly think it’s going to be really cool for what you want it to do. Good luck. You have a knack for making crazy stuff work, and I support the chaos. I still have the sticker to prove it.
Your lower cavitation plate should be 1/2 to 1 inch above the bottom of the pontoon. Make sure the TOP of your motor mount is very strong.
Im a marine engineer from Indonesia… here we say ‘it it stays afloat, you have built a boat’
😂😂
And the English would say something about floating ducks and witches… lol (Monty python reference)
Or a dock. LOL
Chris insulating the hot tub is a must believe me 😮😮😮... been there done that.. so do that and the cabin don't spare monet on the insulating!!,,,,,,😊😊😊😊
Guess they could spray foam in between the 2, it would help with buoyancy and insulation.
I’ve been watching you since your backyard videos. During the Datsun build I had serious doubts and concerns if you would finish that build. I’ve since learned that you get it done even when the chips are down. The boat looks very interesting. Much good luck going forward
Consider putting ski runners under the outside pontoons to turn this into a pontoon hydrofoil to reduce drag on plane. Have the engine mounts able to drop down when on plane on skis, the power trim that also allows vertical movement so you can adjust engine out drive height on the fly which addresses shallow water performance. Please consider the name this the Disco Volante II
Can't wait to see the trailer you build to haul this monster. Going to need an oversize permit to transport also.
Hey Chris, the yacht is considered 'inboard' motors as they are inside of the hull. These are certainly not inboard in the slightest... but they are central outboard I believe
They will be covered I believe with a swim deck behind so they really will be mostly enclosed
@MrDavesbronco an enclosed motor, with non structural hull components covering it, does not an inboard motor make
I have to say the pressure gauge on each cell is the ULTIMATE fail safe alarm for we’re talking on water!
I was on a catamaran recently and noticed it had an analog depth gauge. Well, digital read out, but analog depth sonar that could read through fiberglass. Pretty accurate as we hit a sandbar from being distracted. Worth considering these quality of life gadgets.
I suggest you mount the engines on a vertical lift system where you can adjust the depth of your prop depth. I’ve seen these systems on boats in the puget sound for low tide access to shallow areas. It eliminates the tiliting for transport too, you just raise it higher. Also, do NOT enclose your engines! You will trap your exhaust fumes which can starve your engines and possibly go BOOM!
Oscar needs a welding table for sure you should make that happen.Specially now and for future builds.
They had one at some point... Never saw them use it but saw them unbox it.
Love the build, pontoon is massive. Should call it Toontanic
Good choice on ob choice - cheap and plentiful parts… still lots of new-in-crate floating around… might I suggest jackplates… far easier to adjust on the fly when the time comes… and that time will…. ( 3 cats and 8 jackplates myself )
Cool project, excited to follow this build! Never thought I’d be excited to follow a boat build! 😂😊
Hello!! I was watching the series on the pontoon hatch, awesome. I would like to suggest one thing though, keeping in mind the purpose of this (party, people) I loved the length of it, but it didn’t sit right with me that it was super long, but were kind of limited on width. I understand the limitation ( parking spot!) , but was thinking that you could extend the width if you add 90 degree folding floor on the left and right. So when parking you could have them verticle, (saving space, fitting in the parking spot) and while your out and about, you can lower them extending the floor space!!! Doesn’t need to be that much, maybe just a small 2-3 fit walk space outside the furniture??? Just a thought!! Have fun!!
That transom mount on those engines is cast and machined where I work! If you look inside the webbing on the boat side of it, you'll see LSI (LeSueur Inc) cast into it.
As an okie from Oklahoma I would suggest you just build you. Sounds like you got it figured out. I just subscribed.
Either put those engines on with the best bolts or get the best quality GPS to mark the spot when you lose one or both.
Or chain them to a different part of the pontoon ahah
bolts are cheap, i promise we will buy good ones. I think i mentioned in the episode we will follow the exact spec size and type bolts from the installation manual
As well as those motors are ticking time bombs. I'm surprised they made it to 1200 hours, you said miles, but im assuming it's hours. Most people wouldn't touch those things with a 100ft pole at that point. Do some reading on them before you get too deep into it. You might want to switch your choice of outboard. There is a reason all of the offshore guys run Suzuki's or Yamahas.
They said they used the bolts the engine manufacturer recommended.
Be sure to have two 55 gallon drums filled with water. Make sure that the prop and about one foot of the engine is pointed down into them. You can burn these engines quick if you dry ran i t...if you haven't thought of a bathroom. On that I'd do it especially just right into the water.
You can use what is called jack plates if your concerned about the height/depth of the props. It gives you a lot of adjustments for outboard engine height and some are motorized to make quick easy adjustments. I don’t know much about boats but I’ve seen them in action on some of my family members boats they are pretty cool.
Awesome boat guys!
I think you’ll want more power.
I’ve seen smaller boats with twice the power.
I think you are making history on this build and will get many orders.
Please for the love of gawd do the loaded weight calcifications. This would never get registered in Florida.
I love this project. Have you considered some sort of bow thruster? That’s a lot of boat.
Engineering is fine, real world is what’s wrong. Outboard engines intake air from the cowl and exhaust through the prop, directly under the motor. Putting the engines in an enclosed space directly above your exhaust is going to cause them to choke on their own exhaust fumes and make a perfect combustion chamber for an expensive explosion if the engines ever backfire. Not to mention you’re going to have a carbon monoxide chamber right under your bathroom/changing room.
Stick them in the rear on the outer pontoons or ditch the box over them.
The engine cover is nowhere near the bathroom and won’t seal down to the water. Bad gases are heavier than air plus I’m sure the engine cover will have some sort of air intake.
Thank you for all the hard work in making these excellent videos.
I dont usually like watching long videos, but in this one I am weirdly interested.
Saalute. Im late. Nice build.
Roll cage, sea foam in the pontoons! Expansion foam I think it’s called.
. Just spitballing, two tier cruiser. High5s
The outboard with the steering cylinder mounted to it needs to be mounted to the starboard side. If you’ve truly got a pair of outboards, one is standard rotation, and the other (the one without the sea star cylinder) should be a counter rotating engine. Use the model numbers to verify.
Bloke didn’t make it the whole way through
The only thing that makes an outboard “counter rotating” is a different prop, and the forward and reverse lever is backwards. The engine itself doesn’t counter rotate.
Having longer pontoons outboard of each engine makes a ton of sense. Adds a great deal of flotation right where it needs to be to keep the stern from squatting under the 1200 lbs weight of the engines. BTW, you'll need a big gas tank -- say 200-300 gallons. Where's that going?
Looking at that hot-tub I'm thinking it might do well with some insulation to not discharge any "hot" out in all directions when it is on water...
That's just the basin the hot tub is going in. It's not the actual hot tub.
I am still very curious what kind of voltage the hott will need to stay hot??? My hot tub at home needs 220 Volts...Good luck producing that on that boat
My thoughts exactly. "Better to be overkill than underkill."
A small addition that would increase the strength of the engine mounts would be to extend the lower corners of the mounting out to the edge of the pontoon cylinder cap. This will take bending loads out of the cap sheet material and add to overall strength of the mount overall.
Yes, we have been designing and building alloy boats in NZ for 20 years and have had a couple engine pods give issues on a model that had a design not dissimilar to this and it was as simple to fix as you suggest, the dish in the end on the pontoon might maybe be enough to stop the end plate flexing, if it isn't though it will flex off the pod corner causing a stress raiser which will in turn work harden the alloy at that point and then it will fatigue crack and likely let water into the pontoon.
Piece of mind now and spend an hour bracing the pod to the corners. 👌👍
with the engines, are you also going to put in a bow thruster for better steering? May help hold your position when taking it out of water or if there is a side breeze. You could also mount them between the center pontoons and have something to raise and lower them so they are not causing drag when not needed.
I love how goof this project feels. Can't wait to see how it goes.
Ton of work in this video. You guys are amazing!
Please go Buy two Hydraulic Jack Plates for those Outboards. Also buy or see if Sharrow props will help you Out on the Cost. You want to buy Sharrow Props on this awesome build. Last like a few people said drain plugs for Hot Tub. Don’t forget to use Marine Grade Bilge Pump to bring water into Hot Tub and use same Pump to circulate water in Hot Tub last a Big Bilge to Remove water fast.
500hp is chicken feed for that size lol. We have 4 - 500r's on 36' cats. Damn, we even have 2 - 500r's on tri-toons. 500hp is nothing for that massive toon haha
Have you considered welding diagonals to your floor joists. The wood decking will provide rigidity, but should you supplement that with some diagonals to take pressure off the wood. Just a thought.
I watch your channel before bed because it helps me fall asleep, thank you! I’m your biggest fan!!
literally every fiber of my being cant wait to this to be built so very exciting
You should be consider Bow thruster(s) because this titan would be a pain to stear in dock. And drainage holes with plugs, Don't forget them!
I wouldn't forget to put a aluminum band welded over the butt joints on the pontoons. That is a major weak point could see cracking/splitting issues once it hits water with all the weight all over the boat.
Hey Chris, love the channel.
The welding fumes created when welding aluminum is a proven carcinogen. Your welders should be wearing proper PPE to protect them from the many ailments, including lung cancer. We just outfitted our welders with PAPR's (Powered Air Purified Respirators) and they love them, no more half masks under the welding helmet. You should reach out to 3M or other mfg's and ask them to sponsor an episode and supply some units for free.
You should spray bedliner into the hot tub enclosure for some waterproofing
As a precision welder for over 20 years, for that size of engines overkill on the mounts are always a good idea. The motors are only overkill if your a slow driver. I personally think 1 250 is enough. But I like to just cruise on the lake.
like others have said put a drain hole in the bottom of the engine mounts. I would also weld those engine mounts out fully on the inside where they connect to the pontoons.
Make sure you remember to incorporate zinc anodes to the pontoons if this thing is gonna be in even remotely salty water.
Yes this thing going to need a few big ones and he has to remember to change them annually!
@@Jacobtheunwisedown here if Florida it’s every 3 months lol
Top tip …. You’ll definitely need bow thrusters 👍👍
I know depending on what version the ecu that mounts under the dash where all the main plugs plug in.. the deal will have to have that version of verado program and a laptop. You have to have hydroloc steering helm and electric pump and they're super charged
Hi guys
That enginemount should be longer and cover both those inner ponthoons to even out the force's from engine's when not beeing syncrone. They will put individual stress on each ponthoon as is. And i would mount a lot of 45 dg strenghtening beams between the stringers on top to even out force's from the engines and that tub in front, they will fight each other and the outer one's will be pounded by wawes and only have those tiny crossbeams to hold on to, think you will experience a lot of flexing if not, and that will affect everything else you build over deck as well.
i'm curious if the hot tub will make this thing a total sea plow once it gets in the water.
Unless they drain it, yup. Weight's a bitch.
But the other thing is the void behind it, that's gonna drag it and keep it from planing, I fear. We'll see if my question elsewhere is answered on that, or we see it in reality.
Generally, most boats with pools or hottubs have to be drained before operating. Unless it's a cruise ship or something.
"All passengers to the back NOW"
You do realize the hot tub enclosure will still displace much more water than the actual hot tub sitting in it will hold so it will still be buoyant.
Plus the 2 engines at the opposite end are at least 1200 lbs dry weight.
@Crewsy And the hot tub is going to weigh 5k+ with water and people. I don't think those things offset like you think they do. Also, neutral buoyancy doesn't just magically reduce drag.
Make sure to put a transom pad between the outboad and the boat. You could get corrosion from the 2 types of metals
For the steering, can't you go to the electric route? Hydraulics in the back and an electric steering in the "front" also as mentioned a bow truster ;D, drain holes in the motor mounts, bulge pump in the hottub. anbd as an extra a center top plate on the motor mounts.
Hey chris,
for a boat of this size i would've thought you needed at least 1000HP.
Comparable boats on the market are reaching very high speeds (40+ mph) with much less HP than we currently have. So i feel comfortable with the 500 mark. My guess is this boat will go faster than im comfortable driving it. But time will tell.
@@BisforBuild 10mph should be faster than youre comfortable going, that thing will be almost impossible to steer without bow thrusters. any 40ft boat going over 40mph with less hp is also way lighter and designed for that speed
@@Alex-zi1nbthis ain’t your mommas boat.
Tri-toon? Nah, man, it's Pon-Threen.
@@BisforBuildyour going to need super low pitch props to get it on plane…. Witch will result in slow top speed, I’d guess 25-27 mph max
Those twin 250's look nasty....great job guys!
You should just bolt an eye beam to the deck and use electric joists on neoprene wheels. They move horizontal manually really well.
Monaco Grand Prix is a bucket list item for me. So jelly.
I might have run the sides of the engine mounts down further to tie into the plates welded underneath the big tubes, but otherwise looks great.
I feel like this things is going to be hard to turn with these outboards, being mounted "inboard"
Ya, I think the boat would handle better if the engines were on the back of the outer pontoons. But it will be a cool experiment, look forward to seeing how it does "Inboard"
Bow thrusters for the win, if he puts them on.
@@tallpaull9367. For the most part, If you are running dual engines on a pontoon boat, they are always mounted just inside the outer pontoons.
@@savage6394 NO. Always to the back always outer corners. Much more control.
You have been watching too much of the guy that built a catamaran ship from his back yard back in the early 90s. His boat called kaliedescope, amazing. Good luck with your build.
The Pontyacht..? Yachtoon..? is gonna be sick!
didnt know 95% of subscribers here are engineers and boat builders
😂😂 seriously.
Because they dont have to make experiment😅,this vid will give really lot of data and lesson
Should look into aluminum backplates for the motors so u can raise and lower if u get in shallow water or want to beach the boat
Make sure you put AIRCRAFT GRADE BOLTS on those engines or you could regret it later on. Cheapest insurance you'll ever have.
not from boeing tho
He says they're getting the exact bolts required by the engine manufacturers, so I think he's got that covered.
aircraft grade hahahhaa
Here for all the expert boat builders in the comments 😂
😂😂😂
Me Too! Some folks are experts in all fields! Lmfao 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
Bro me too! Lots of folks missed the part in the series where he said an engineer checked the plans.
Some of them were right tho, building a yacht on some alluminium pipes does't seem to be the smartest idea. There's a reason why all the world use thick finerglass monocoque for that job
@@PatLures agreed! Out of the thousands of comments on this boat series, there’s bound to be a decent amount that have some weight behind what they’re saying!
Maybe you want to weld in a cross member support between the two middle pontoons that the engines are attached to for torque bind protection.
Hey I commented about air pressure and gauges to check for leaks haha. I don’t know if you saw mine or someone else’s but that’s awesome regardless!
Nice, should put in electric gps trolling motors in front and back to keep it in place on the lake
Someone commented bow thrusters, with the engine's positioned as is bow thrusters would be a good inclusion to help maneuver in and out of situations.
I was really hoping it would have some seven marine 557hp LS powered outboards
Chris I am sure you thought deeply about the weight distribution front to back. I guess you considered travelling with hot tub full? and will it be sometimes empty too?
Anyway in my commercial open hull barge I often load front heavy and its okay. Just touchy with the steering trying to get it straight..
It will take getting used to being front or rear heavy.
You will want proper front to back weight distribution though-feels better!. You might consider a ballast water tank system, if you want to get fancy.
Always check for counterrotation when installing twin engines.
with a large amount of weight in the front and rear there is going to be a LOT of stress on the center of the boat.
there will be a second deck adding a large amount of weight to the middle, but also adding an additional layer of tie ins + strength
Don't forget to add drains to the mounting plates, you're definitely going to get pooling in there.
Oscar. Damn that boy can weld. 👍😁
Pure talent. 🙏