SEAFIRE Supermarine Seafire F.XVII Airfix 1/48 scale - FULL BUILD HD 1080p
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
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Today I'm building the Airfix Seafire F.XVII kit in 1/48 scale. If you've got one at home you'll want to watch this! To see what you get in the box and what options for parts and markings are supplied see the companion video at • SEAFIRE Supermarine Se...
00:00 Introduction
01:50 Main build
33:42 Paint
35:09 Decals
40:45 Detail build
49.29 Conclusions
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/dan-barracuda/vo... - Навчання та стиль
Gary " I don't know what I am doing...I am just doing random things." Aren't we all Gary? Aren't we all!
Nice job on the cockpit gauges!
Thanks Owen!
what a great gesture to dedicate the build to your Dad Gary. Great looking Model.
Cheers John!
Perfect 👍👍👍
Nice build ... would say the best finish yet of all the buildsive watched
Thanks mate!
love my chrome pens for lights
Must try them - where did you get them?
Amazon
I'll check them out!
I'm watching your Seafire full build at this very moment.
Dedicated to your dear old (ish) Dad....who is still going strong. He must be very proud....
My respects to him.
I hope he is proud. He's 92 and not in the very best of health but isn't of a mind to be beaten just yet!
@@garys_stuff
Good for him.
he's got a nice rack of 'Gongs and I see that he's showing a couple of 'Pins on his ribbons. So I assume he was called up around 1948 ?
Anyway at 92 years young he's entitled to do whatever he likes, tell him I said so.
He volunteered! He said it was to get away from the family (some dodgy characters apparently) so he went to sea at 17. And yes, with his age and his experience he can pretty much do whatever the hell he wants to!
@@garys_stuff
Ha Ha !
My little boy (he's 40) joined the Army in 2001 and after basic training he volunteered to go to Iraq....active service..... to get away from his Partner.
War is Hell !
So...21 years old with an SA80 and a bloody great big machine gun...War hero, trained killer and holder of a shiney bright Queen Elizabeth medal.
Kids...no wonder I have grey hair
He's a good lad. You are obviously and rightly proud of him!
Excellent build as always son.
I'm looking forward to the next video and next build.
Keep up the great work son👍
Thanks Joe 👍
A build not for the faint of heart in my opinion. Applause, Gary!
Thanks Ramón!
Another Beauty Gary :)
Thanks Duncan!
Good looking model Gary 👍
Thanks 👍
Very nice build Gary! A tip, or two more for the oil filler cap would be to punch out a thin (5 thou or less) plastic card the right diameter using a punch and die set glue in place and sand down to thin it further leaving it just proud of the surface. Another (and cheaper!) method is take a brass tube of the appropriate diameter and use a round rat-tail file to sharpen the edges or rim of the tube. This can then be used with a twisting action to engrave a circle in the plastic. The tube can be retained for other such kits.
Thanks Randall - if I build another Seafire with this issue I've plenty of advice now!
1 Useful tip for the ID lights (I learned this doing the new Airfix 1/48 Mustang which has clear ID Lights on the wing) is to use clear paints on the inside surface of the Clear part, let it dry then coat it with a bright silver - it will pop the colours by reflecting any light back out of the part. Make sure that all paints are dry before starting the next steps. When done, use liquid mask on the clear side CAREFULLY, then secure in place with the unpainted side to the outer surface. After all painting, unmask the lights et Voila!
This works better than using just Red/Orange/Green or Blue paint and better than just using the clear colours because the interior will be black from lack of light) and dull the appearance of even standard paints just a little.
My Suggestion for the Fuel filler, drill out the scribed area (AFTER joining the fuselage and before filling and sanding) and find a segment of rod (Even a length of sprue may work!) that is not too tight a fit; 10mm should be long enough. Glue it in with ultra thin leaving about 1/2 mm or 1mm proud of the outer, IMPORTANT! Fill and sand the fuselage joint before gluing in the ROD! Then shave and sand down flush. It the fit of the rod is a tad loose then the circle should be visible. IF the fit is tight then you can lightly chamfer to hole after drilling it, before adding the sprue/rod... his Takes all of 15 mins not counting letting the cement set hard. HTH.
Cheers Brett. I painted the inside of the lights with silver (well, aluminium which seems to work better with Vallejo paints) - I always try to do that. I'll try adding the colour inside first next time I need to do it.
@@garys_stuff
You could fill and sand the circle and then rescribe it with a needle and circle template.
BTW have you seen that Molotow has released masking Fluid in a felt-yip pen'? It looks very handy.
I'll check out those pens...
Gary where do you display your collection , perhaps a tour video would be interesting
Hi Chris - I don't really display them. There is a shelf stacked full of stuff I need to sort out, get some clear doors for, etc., but nothing grand like an actual display.
Yep now i want to buy this Spitfire...
Easy to find second hand and a cracking little build!
thin plastic card for the oil filler cap Gary
That came out fantastically Gary,well done. Its amazing what can be done with a little dry-brushing,a steady hand and tape. Also motivated me while it was playing I got the beginnings of washes down on the BUFF I'm working on from Academy. While it's 1/144 it's still larger than a 1/48 Corsair, also its a well detailed and apart from my idiot brain seems to go together well, I'd recommend it if you ever want a large but smallish bomber,
I like the idea of 1/144 big bombers like the B-36...
Looks amazing Gary. Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
Thanks Peter!
Hi Gary I'm returning to the hobby after 30yrs.Enjoying your content I've purchased a spirited no 18,seafire and two bucaneers all in 1.48 scale.
I also build and paint warming miniatures for historical games
My last suffix kit was in the 80s and was a 1.48 bucaneer.
I'm wondering if I should undercoat the parts before applying paint.
I always use a primer coat, a spray can works well. If you're using acrylics then they are water based and need a good 'key' to bond with the surface, and bare plastic is sometimes too shiny. My favoured one is Jenolite for plastics but I'm told the Halford's one works well and of course there are primers made by Humbrol.
I think the seat Eduard refer to is the bakelite early version of the seat ( without the seat back cushion ) the seat as you have then becomes metal painted interior green and the head rest and back cushion was black leather , however not sure if this applies to later Spitfires or Seafires as I only model up to MKIVs
Good info Chris, thanks!
Hi Gary, the Seafire turned out perfectly, it is another aircraft that you do not hear anout very often, again well done, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.
I have a FR.47 waiting to be built
Cheers Les!
Excellent Lee!
Nice one Gary. It looks a bit fiddly in places but the end result is well worth it. I’m going to keep my eyes open for when Airfix re-release this one.
Oh, I hope they do because the decals would be thinner and it will look better!
That was very enjoyable i am glad it was a build that progressed with out to much hassle as it is a tribute to your dad . Regards Gav.
Thanks Gav! Not too bad a kit at all.
Again a good build Gary, think the cockpit detail looks pretty smart!
Very nice job there! I enjoyed watching that; a good straightforward kit that goes together well, and as you said, 'no drama'...!! :-)
It looks very similar to the Airfix bubble-top Spitfire that I built a few years back; an all-silver version that was stationed at Kai Tak, Hong Kong. Looks the same kit; just different paint scheme and markings!
That was a great tribute to your Dad, and good to see he's looking well..... You must be very proud of him :-)
Much of the kit is the same apart from the folding wings and the tail hook. And yes, I am extremely proud of him. It's the only photo of him wearing his medals - he just won't wear them. Very modest man, as were so many of his generation who did incredible things for our country.
@@garys_stuff: Bless him... a true veteran and hero! 🙂 My Dad was in the Army after the war, and for a while stationed in Hong Kong, amongst other places; his time was more peace time, though he did have to go to Korea during troubles in the mid '60s, but that was in his civvy MOD jobs after..... still a hero to me, and he's just turned 85 and fit as a flea!! 😀
Anyone who puts on a uniform and serves their country, military or civilian, is a hero. Simple as.
Hi Gary. The Seafire looks great. Looking forward to the Stirling (and it's undercarriage!). Cheers🍺
Cheers Bruce!
Nice result though you found more problems than I would have anticipated. Makes me wonder about the fate of my later Seaspit and PR kits.
I'm of two minds about the wings-folded pose until I realized that it looks like a raptor posing on a branch.
You pulled it off, G!
Thanks Randy!
Really enjoying your videos. You obviously put a lot of work into not only your models but also you videoing and commentary. Congratulations
Thanks Craig! Hope your enjoyment continues - got some challenging builds coming up....
Well that was well worth watching. I've never actually attempted to do a plane as my hands aren't the most steadiest but I do enjoy a good video on such models. I would like to believe that there might be some cars vans and trucks in the future as they'll be a bit less fiddly and for me,
Less chance of messing up in the process.
Great video mate 👍🏼👍🏼
Brilliant! Loved it! It’s great fun watching you work. Now as a returnee. My issue is since the way needed some extra extra builds re
Nice Work Gary, built a few FAA kits over the last few years and did wonder - How on Earth did they take off in that lol
I think one of the worst was the Seafire FR.47s in Korea. With overloaded aircraft, steaming on one screw because of a bearing failure on the other and little natural over-deck wind was an issue. They either used the catapult/accelerator (which often broke) or they used rockets to boost the take-off. With the weights being used even this was, to say the least, marginal. They needed a bit of flap, but the Seafires were either up or down, no intermediate steps. So they got the ship's chippy to fashion wedges. The pilot selected flaps down, they held the wedges in, then selecting flaps up gabbed the wedges and kept the flaps slightly open. On take-off, gear up then at a reasonable speed a quick down-up cycle of the flap lever and the wedges fell away and the flaps retracted. How the devil they managed is quite beyond me.
Hi Gary, I purchased this kit 12 years ago ,its been in my loft all these years now I have retired I am going to give this a go . How do you glue parts together that have already been painted ? Do you you a special glue ? superglue ? you make it look so easy . I remember many years ago the joint would become a mess as the paint from both parts would come off ! Very good video by the way . Many Thanks
Hi David, I use regular polystyrene cement much of the time - either Contacta or Tamiya Extra Thin. I find it works with bits that have been pre-painted with acrylics OK as long as it isn't plastered on! Also, often I'll dry fit and need to sand a bit anyway and the contact surfaces are cleaned. The trick is not to use too much glue - like I certainly did when i was a nipper! This Seafire kit is lovely, should go together very well for you.
A lovely tribute to your dad Gary ,I’ve always liked the fleet air arm very interesting especially trials with a rubber flight deck that was interesting to read ,also the aircraft used or proposed like the P1152 supersonic Harrier ,my nephew is deployed on the new queen Elizabeth carrier like me he’s no fan of the F35 to me that aircraft is a bag of bolts and not the refinement of the sea harrier with its one engine not half a dozen 😂,great build Gary looks superb hope you’ve got room for these models 😃respect to your father from me
Kind regards
Mark 👍🏻😊
At Yeovilton they have models of the QE2 class as is and as it would have been as a "cat and trap" ship. Dad looked at them both, shook his head and muttered "unbelievable". Why we have the F-35B with lower range and load capability than the navalised C model and we have ships with badly reduced interoperability with our allies is completely beyond me.
@@garys_stuff 100% agree Gary
@@garys_stuff
It's amazing how.much money the American military has to waste. I think the rationale for the STOL F-35 was to replace the USMC Harrier in front-line, close-support service. Expensive solution.
I get it for the USMC with smaller carriers (just) and specific close-support needs, but for fleet defence I would have thought the plane with the longer range and better weapons load was the one to have. Also, you can then interoperate with USN F-35C, Greyhound COD, E-2, and with Rafales from France etc., etc. And you can still land an F-35B or an Osprey on the deck!
With the Walkway decal, is it long enough to fit the /whole/ wing when flat, and you're supposed to fit it to the whole flat wing, and /then/ cut it where the wing folds?
The wing comes in pieces, and the outer panels don't sit flush with the inner panels - I guess sit's to do with the thickness of the plastic and stuff like that. For the unfolded wing there is a single piece upper surface on each side and that would be fine, but for the wings folded you have to cut the decal. The only option is to build the kit then try to fit the decal with the wing folded - which is probably even worse!
That’s a beautiful looking aircraft. What role did your dad carry out on board?
Many, many things. He says he was on 'special duties' because the carrier was maintained at wartime crew levels even though there wasn't (at the start) a war on. Never really pinned him down on exactly what he did, because he clams up and won't speak of it. I know he saw some horrific things, but he also said he had the best time of his life. He was non-commissioned, is all I know because he was refused entry to the Raffles Hotel in Singapore because he wasn't an officer.
Great job..what's your EDSG and Sky of choice for your FAA builds???
Thanks. I use Vallejo Model Air colours mainly, so the US Dark Grey (71.110) is also BS640 EDSG, and they do a Sky Type S (71.302). They seem pretty good.
Having finished the Seafire...are you going to hand it to your Dad ? He will love it.
Probably, he's in hospital right now but he should be out in a week or so. But he'll probably look at the 1/48 Seafire FR.47 and the 1/48 Attacker I did for him a couple of years ago and wonder how my modelling has come on. In other words, can you do these again?? I did make a model of his ship, HMS Triumph, for him in 1/700 and got some Fireflies and Seafires 3D printed for it!
@@garys_stuff
I'm sorry Gary.....I missed this message. I didn't that Dad was in hospital. Hopefully he will be back home soon and be able to savour his New Seafire.
Nice job by the way, well put together including that tedious little rudder hinge ! Amazing the amount of modifications that were made to allow for the arrester hook assembly to be fitted and also the amount of reinforcing to the airframe. I saw a video of the DH Mosquito during testing for deck landing evaluation and the wire ripped the rear half of the fuselage whilst the rest trundled off down the deck.
@@oldgitsknowstuff he'll be right as rain soon enough. BTW, quite a few Seafires had their tails ripped off by the arrester wire tension too!
Hi Gary, nice result. A really good job.
A couple of observations. Could the cockpit mouldings be slightly wide contributing to the gaps in the fuselage joinup? Would the tail wheel doors go in better before the wheel? Would the little wedge in the elevator hinge fit into the gap in the elevators and be fitted at the same time as the elevator (maybe too difficult with the adhesive)? Have you thought of a mini-drill (dremmel type) with a router bit for removing yhode lumps in the mouldings like at the end of the wings? It would let you grind below the joint surface unlike the emery board.
The "strut" on the landing gear that you broke, is properly called a scissors. It stops undesirable stearing in the lower leg.
Aircraft by this time had constant speed airscrews so throttle and mixture but I don't know what the third lever is for.
Hi, all good points. The only thing I'd say about the drill is that I have found the high rotation speed tends to melt the plastic rather than abrade it even at the slowest setting. I know one (really good) modeller online has a custom-made controller that reduces then speed further allowing him to use the drill.
@@garys_stuff Hi Gary, I understand the heat issue. The ammount of heat would depend on the cutter as well as the speed. A good open tooth cutter such as intended for wood would probably be best, perhaps with a sort of dabbing action (hard to describe) wherr you touch the surface then withdraw, then repeat. A delicate touch. I can't think of another method that grinds the waste flush without touching the precious edge. I like the idea of a speed controller though, more suitable to a battery drill.
@@garys_stuff Hi Gary, quick update. I have a Dremmel 3000. It is 33000rpm max but has 10 click stop speed settings. I put a HSS die grinder bit (I think it part number 7180 but I might have some digits wrong) in the collet and set lowest speed. I had a bit of gash plastic from a label on a DIY tool. I don't think its polystyrene but it isnot dissinilar. I fairly easily ground a small recess in the plastic without melting, simply scalping flakes off the surface.
While I was looking for stuff I remembered a vid I saw earlier this year by a railway modeller about tools from Lidl and Aldi. With a dose of lateral thinking I thought some of us aerophiles who might fancy the odd diaorama could learn some techniques for mud, foliage etc from the railies.
Loving your builds Gary! How do you get away without scraping paint away prior to glue parts together? I always end up in a mess of non adhering components even after carefully removing paint off mounting faces!
Anything critical I do sand off or scrape off paint - like fuselage halves or the undercarriage legs. otherwise it all seems to work OK.
The nagic of super-glue. Most plastic cements need 2 clean plastic surfaces to work. You can't melt the plastics together if they're coated with nonplastic like paint or plating. Acc/superglue attaches to the surface so light parts can be surface-bonded.
Nice job, as usual. Could you recommend a Seafire kit with the contra rotating props 1:48 please?
Your option is essentially only the Airfix one from 1996 - released again in a new box in 2012 - as I don't think anyone else has done it in 1:48. Easy enough to find second hand. It's an older tooling but still reasonably good. It makes the FR.46 (fixed wing) or FR.47 (folding wing) versions. There is some aftermarket stuff available too - open gun bays for example, and you might want to look at newer decals (Freightdog does a set).
If anyone from Airfix is reading, please re-tool the FR.47. Seriously, please.
@@garys_stuff Thank you.
Really good,Gary. How do you feel about the water slide transfers overall? Do you think it would be better to replace with a new set of decals?🤔. 👍😎Pete 🤓
The transfers were thick, which is good for colour density but they took a lot of microsol to get them anywhere near the panel lines. If Airfix did re-release the F.XVII the decals would be much thinner. I guess it's an extra decade of printing technology. In the absence of a new kit, I might look at aftermarket roundels at least, the numbers and stencils are OK.
@@garys_stuff Thanks Gary. I do have one on the shelf which has slowly accumulated extra parts and adding a few rounders is no problem👍. Thanks again for your advice👍😎Pete 🤓
Hmmmm , a mk 17 , in 1:48 huh . That's interesting , it would match the 47 build , i have the shelf . I love carrier aircraft , and those two would line up with the with the Tr mk 33 , parts i have to convert a Mossie , ito a seaborne version , also in 1:48 .
Just wish they'd do a new tool FR.47....
@@garys_stuff Yeah i agree . Judging from what you had , i can see some of the pit falls , i'm gonna have on the 47 . Many of the cockpit details are identical , and some wing bits as well . But it has to be done , that 6 blade prop looks pure badass on a Spit . A work of art
The weird ones say Deck-Ale ;-)))
In the words of Madness, that is just one step beyond...
What color of the seatbelt using a tape
On planes like this I use a linen colour, on later aircraft they would be blue or olive green depending on the age. But I might be wrong with the colour, so check online sources!
beige siege satin varnish did you mix?
On this kit it was Humbrol 237 desert tan.
Nicely built, but I’m not sure why people emphasise the panel lines as they are way too deep and overscale already, I’d be trying to minimise them
Hi Rob, well I guess it's about intent. My kits tend to go on a shelf and are not picked up again, they are viewed from a distance so the panel lines are picked out so they can be seen from a bigger viewing distance, Just looks right to me like that. If they are going to be looked at closely then I'd go for more subdued panel lines.
@@garys_stuff , Fair play , it's a great looking machine either way - great work
Beautiful airplane too bad it is no longer available.
Pretty easy to find them second hand though.