Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
How to replace control arms/ball joints on a Sprinter [2002-2006 Dodge/Freightliner/Mercedes]
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 лис 2017
- Correct way apparently is to temporarily distort the taper fitting by using two heavy sledge hammers, one on either side, holding one and striking with the other, applying force perpendicular of the face. See picture: imgur.com/a/AL57B
Do not hang brake calipers by their hoses - rest them on a milk jug. This stresses the brake hoses, which if you haven't replaced them yet they're due for replacement anyway - your life depends on your brake hoses.
Torque specs: INSTALLATION
(1) Install the lower control arm to the frame.
Hand tighten the nuts and bolts.
NOTE: In order to remove tension from the strut,
Raise the lower control arm approximately 10 mm
with a jack.
(2) Install the lower ball joint into the steering
knuckle. Tighten to 280 N·m (206 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the strut bolts to the steering knuckle
(Fig. 8). Tighten to 185 N·m (136 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the stop plate (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/SPRING STOP PLATES - INSTALLATION).
(5) Lower the lower control arm.
(6) Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle (Fig.
8). Tighten the nut to 130 N·m (96 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION)
(Fig. 8).
(8) Install the front tire & wheel assembly (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove the spring blocks between the spring
and the spring clamp plates, While the vehicles
wheels are on the ground.
(11) Roll the vehicle approximately 1 mm forwards
and the backwards, and rock firmly.
(12) Tighten the lower control arm nuts and bolts
to the frame to 150 N·m (110 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
(13) Apply brake to actuate brake pressure.
page 29 @ www.diysprinter... (Free service manual, save this)
thanks for updating with the correct way. Finally was able to remove it after giving up on this for a while!
Great to hear, yeah I had a very hard time with this too. I would have wrote that on the video rather than in the description but I hadn't found that method till after I was done.
do you remember what size the nut is on that tie rod?
"Good ideas don't require force"
Except ball joints and rack ends. They need a lot of it! Sometimes whacking the sides can help a lot with freeing them up :)
Thank you for posting. For those of us without money to burn these videos help so much. I was hoping it would jump when whacking because I have had that so many times. Couple things I learned ,rubber boot will hamper pry wedge tool. Also two hammers, hitting exactly opposed, same time, like a poster said saved my butt once after mangled nut. Good job. Nice you shared.
Hey, glad you enjoyed the video. I did the job over again on one side due to a cracked boot, and I did try the two Hammer method but I found there was just not enough space with the rotor and everything's still attached. I made a new video of my improved technique to deal with this: jack the van up high then swing it backwards between your legs. That's a great idea to remove the boot. I didn't have any luck with the pickle fork at all and beat up the rental pretty good.
I have the 06 Sprinter. At 25K miles I paid the dealer to align and correct tire wear and wandering steering. 6 months later I still had tire wear. Went to an alignment house and they said new ball joints and tie rods-all worn too much for align. Moog sold ball joints and I like their ball joint design better than any other. Bought the ball joints and tierods. Press fitted the ball joints into the old A arms
and added the tie rods. Aligned with a home made jig. Went to grease the conical zerk on the new ball and did not have the right grease gun. Moog did not know where to get a grease gun to fit
those Moog balls.?. Bought an over priced grease gun and that worked. With molylith grease put in there every time the steering gets a little stiff I now have 170K and the ball joints are good. Sealed unit ball joints wear out every 25-30K. You can tell the sealed ball joints are worn when the steering gets too heavy. Van are heavy machines with heavy parts and every time I pulled on a wrench I was pulling myself instead of the wrench. I needed to gain about 40 lbs of muscle!! So get the Moog brand and buy a propane torch to heat those parts and you will smile with no 20 lb sledge required.
That's great to hear. These little conical zerks are soooo hard to grease. I want to just drill out that piece of crap and thread in a real zerk. But I'd be interested in what tool you had success with. That's good to know that the grease affect the steering. I figured it would just affect the bushing wearing out faster but come to think of it the grease maybe does affect steering.
@@AncapistanVan sent a detail reply but not sure you got it.? let me know VR
i have a sprinter 2006, Moog is a brand 5 or 10 times better than the original or the German Bilstein ones, I'm glad it uses Moog, whenever I buy a used car, I put Moog parts in it, they are made in the United States, the sad thing is that they are difficult to find in Mexico.
su video me ha servido mucho, gracias desde méxico saludos y los mejores deseos.
Sound removed due to people commenting (On other forums where I shared it) about too much swearing. Best song I could find on youtube for free..
How long did it take to change one control arm? Did you do both sides? I have new control arms with ball joints. But I also have new separate ball joints but I think it may be harder to replace just the ball joint... I have to remove the hubs to replace the tone rings (rusted out) and need to replace all this stuff at the same time I guess. Have new bearings Hubs and tone rings.. have new calipers but don't want to deal with bleeding brakes at this time. I'll order the hoses I guess..
All depends on how stuck/rusted they are, how much grease the last guy used, and how good of tools you have. With an air hammer, you can get it separated in no time. With a 4 lb sledge and a pickle fork separator and no way to jack your vehicle high enough to get a good swing, you could hammer at it all night long. Been there done that, till the wrong end of the ball joint popped out of its socket finally at 3am in an autozone parking lot, sweaty, cold, angry and bloody. It takes me about 2-4 hours to do the job on my rig now, cause I keep it well greased, change em out every 3 years and I've learned some tricks (See my other video on ball joint tips). Now I jack it way up in the air and hit it hard with an 8lb sledge with a shortened handle. Next time I might just take my grinder and destroy the son of a bitch and say to hell with the hammering. Peace through superior firepower. I've tried the "Proper" method of distorting the taper by hitting it with two hammers. It hasn't worked for me. Neither has my giant ball joint C clamp kit which is designed for the job, always gets so tight that the wrench/socket starts rounding/bending the impact grade steel bolt.
I broke a ball joint puller trying to get the lower one out! This definitely isn't easy ;)
In other words it takes something to hold the loose hub where you have the blue jack and an additional jack to release the tension of the leaf spring on the ball joint bolt.
Thanks for this video. What brand LCA did you purchase and did it work good for you?
Ja komédia!
The best way to get a ball joint to release is one heavy hammer held against one side while striking the opposite side with another heavy hammer. Penetrating oil will not make a difference.
You mentioned torquing to spec have them by any chance ?
(2) Install the lower ball joint into the steering
knuckle. Tighten to 280 N·m (206 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the strut bolts to the steering knuckle
(Fig. 8). Tighten to 185 N·m (136 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the stop plate (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/SPRING STOP PLATES - INSTALLATION).
(5) Lower the lower control arm.
(6) Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle (Fig.
8). Tighten the nut to 130 N·m (96 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION)
(Fig. 8).
(8) Install the front tire & wheel assembly (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove the spring blocks between the spring
and the spring clamp plates, While the vehicles
wheels are on the ground.
(11) Roll the vehicle approximately 1 mm forwards
and the backwards, and rock firmly.
(12) Tighten the lower control arm nuts and bolts
to the frame to 150 N·m (110 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
(13) Apply brake to actuate brake pressure.
page 29 @ www.diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2006-VA-SM.pdf (Free service manual, save this)
I didn't say you sucked at it.
I can't work on my van like I use to. That is what I meant.
Ah i c no worries
Any recommendations on putting the new lower control arm back on? This new one doesn't want to slide in
Did you ever get the control arm in? I'm having the same issue. Almost seems like the new control arm is 5 mm too small from bolt to bolt.
@@healthislifemedia I did eventually
Use dish soap and try to kind of toss it in and then rubber mallet it in. It takes a lot of force and it's hard. But manufacturer defects are possible too. Compare it to the original? Also, if you get an aftermarket one, those ones are almost always shit and made with different dimensions
This should be titled how NOT to replace control arms!!
This was my first time, with limited tools. Imo it is a decent demonstration of the process without special tools. It is not easy without a remover but this method is successful for many on a budget.
@@AncapistanVan I would suggest hitting the outside of the casting the ball joint or tie rod end where the taper sits. Usually three good slaps is enough. But the handle on your hammer is too long for "good" slaps.
Van még mit tanulnom!
Just let the garage do it
I didnt go to diesel school to pay other people to do my own work for me. Why would i work for weeks to pay for a job i can now do in a few hrs??????? Not the kinda attitude this channel is about. Maybe you think i sucked, but that was my first time and i got it done and it's still working great to this day.
@@AncapistanVan Never went to Van Sprinter school but did do the 180D SOHK school and still have to hear this same BS from neighbors, "you shouldn't have to do this!" My van runs good and lazy neighbors that never get out of the house can flap their gums all day long.
I agree with AncapistanVan and VIncet Rolfe. I am a backyard mechanic, better than homeowner, not a professional. I can see that i would have done the same as the video the first time, after watching the video it helps, and with the replys to find a more efficient way of doing it. Kudos guys for the advice and video, im doing 2 of my sprinters this week, 189k and 175k miles. Although, im going the route of just replacing the control arms with ball joint assemblies, the extra $ outweighs the amount of swearing and bruised knuckels :). Thanks for the video and replys!
@@skippythewonderpoodle9872 What brand Control Arm did you use and are you happy with it? Many Chinese aftermarket that I don't trust.
How amateurish to work on a vehicle in the auto parts store parking lot.
How judgmental to judge a homeless person making do with what they have without breaking laws or making a mess, with permission.