You’ve left a lot out here. One, the chassis needs to be checked and if needed straightened. Contrary to your statements higher horsepower engines bend the rear corners of the chassis up over time. Two, you left out ride height and axle height adjustment prior to any changes being made to correctly distribute the weight. Three, most certainly seat position changes are an essential part of setup, even for the entry level karter. It’s the single biggest thing you can do to change the handling of the kart, given the 160 pound mass you are repositioning.
Interesting. How do you know the accuracy of each scale? What about repeatability? Wheel position on the scale will affect your overall outcome. If you're trying to get within 10% of your goal then I guess this setup might work. Everyone seems to forget about accuracy and repeatability.
@@robbinsracing801 I use a set of electronic scales for my Legend Car. I keep it calibrated so I get repeatable results. The most variability is the nut behind the wheel.
Easier to mount to the seat. If you have a way to securely mount to the frame you could but it's very common practice to mount to the seat in go karting.
Good video, but. Itend to find this a bit overrated and close to impossible to get right, you need to have everything 100% right. If your allignment is off you get a false result, if your frame is just slightly bent (and it very likely could be), if you are not 100% level between the 4 corners it will be off. I tend to just focus on getting the front/rear weight in the ball park and solve the rest in the setup.
This series is so helpful for a new person to the sport! I've already recommended it to others getting into karting!
That is how we grow the SPORT!!!
I put a straight edge across the steering arms to make sure the wheels are straight ahead, good job.
You’ve left a lot out here. One, the chassis needs to be checked and if needed straightened. Contrary to your statements higher horsepower engines bend the rear corners of the chassis up over time. Two, you left out ride height and axle height adjustment prior to any changes being made to correctly distribute the weight. Three, most certainly seat position changes are an essential part of setup, even for the entry level karter. It’s the single biggest thing you can do to change the handling of the kart, given the 160 pound mass you are repositioning.
Interesting. How do you know the accuracy of each scale? What about repeatability? Wheel position on the scale will affect your overall outcome. If you're trying to get within 10% of your goal then I guess this setup might work. Everyone seems to forget about accuracy and repeatability.
Yes, close is good enough. Scales do have an adjuster, I put a 5lb weight on the scale set the scale to 5lbs and call it good.
@@robbinsracing801 I use a set of electronic scales for my Legend Car. I keep it calibrated so I get repeatable results. The most variability is the nut behind the wheel.
@@MikeSmith-is1yy Love your comment
Why not put the weights on the opposite side of the engine but on the frame?
Easier to mount to the seat. If you have a way to securely mount to the frame you could but it's very common practice to mount to the seat in go karting.
Nice and cheaper setup. I try it before in china. close like that.
Yup it has worked great for us
Good video, but. Itend to find this a bit overrated and close to impossible to get right, you need to have everything 100% right. If your allignment is off you get a false result, if your frame is just slightly bent (and it very likely could be), if you are not 100% level between the 4 corners it will be off.
I tend to just focus on getting the front/rear weight in the ball park and solve the rest in the setup.
I would agree, another reason to not invest into a professional scaling setup. Close is good enough for me.