As you go into a corner and get closer to the apex, the brakes are needed less and less because the lateral g-force is becoming high enough to do the work alone of keeping the inside rear tyre up. Until that point, the trail braking serves the purpose of fulling in the gap of insufficient lateral g-force as well as increasing the front bite for rotating the kart into the corner which is what will ultimately lead to the sufficient amount of lateral g-force.
The rotation explanation being left out during the trail braking and turn in portion of the corner is what needs to be touched on. Leaving the balance more forward and being able to rotate the back end is the reason for trail braking in the first place.
really nice insight about trail braking in that 5% range of break pedal. I think it is my problem a bit, cause when I trail break, I seem to go from initial 95% to maybe 70-75%. Will definitively test it next time, thanks!
Agree with you Vlad, I think this is the first time I hear about that. But just one question, it is like that in karting but we are ok that for other categories like GT cars it is not the same thing. I watch a lot of Suellio Almeida videos and he always teaches to trail brake at every %, from 100% to 0%. So I just want to be sure that this 5% range on the break pedal is only for karting
@@gregsbredeks9848 With karting its similar to formula cars in terms of hitting 100% then trailing off, what I understood with the 5% thing is that its the point that makes you the better driver than others, in the end braking is what makes you faster as you always want to increase rotation to increase your speed rather than just a higher minimum speed through a corner does not mean you are faster. Rotation makes you faster.
@@gregsbredeks9848 Also I think he meant that, majority of the braking is just getting the kart slowed down and the last 5% is what creates the rotation as trail breaking amplifies the steering input, thats why you neutral steer (steer with brakes)
@@pickly6670 okay thanks ! That's why in most fast karts (I mean not rental karts) I always see the steering being neutral or almost even if there is a turn. It really amazes me to be honest because GT cars are really not like that. I'm trying to learn that on rF2, I'm progressively understanding this physic
I tend to try to get on the throttle earlier so I have better exit speeds then my opponents so I don’t really do trail brake but I try get the kart point to the apex and then get on the throttle a bit so that by the time I’m at the apex I’m full throttle
Is there any trial braking involved at all in a rental kart? Should you do all your braking in straight line before the turn? Or should you dab the brake and turn sharply at the same time?
for brakes I avoid thinking about travel because once you move past the dead zone, it doesnt travel that much. force/pressure matters the most once the pads fully contact the disc
Hey Ryan, great video. I really enjoy your content. Even though I don’t even race anymore, I watch and kind of look back to see what I was doing wrong. In particular, the throttle application. Even in this video I was watching your right foot more closely. It’s insane to me, how much later you are on the throttle than I would be but of course you’re much faster. I did watch the throttle application video. But like this one, I hope you make a second Throttle video. Personally, I think the video is so fast and the travel is so short, that it’s too hard to see when you pick up the throttle and when you hit 100%. If you’ve ever run a throttle position sensor, it would be great to show the data. And maybe compare the result of early and too aggressive versus proper throttle application. All the best -
Thanks for watching! Thats a video I want to go over soon, just trying to find a way, like you said, to make it clear how to see a little more clearly.
@@NorbergNation Truthfully, I thought about it and you can just draw on some paper the difference in inputs. Like have the corner and racing line like you usually do and then on another sheet do the brake pressure and throttle trace. And maybe compare two “different” drivers. Like me, I would maybe stab the throttle to 100% a foot or two before the apex. Then sometimes the back slides out a few feet after the apex. I would like to see your style shown relative to your track position. So maybe arrows could connect the throttle position to the track map and show where you are at 0% through to where you hit wide open. Thanks again.
Great footage and explanation! I'm able to now take corners with minimal steering input, primarily relying on the brake and throttle to control the rotation.
I do know you guys but this is how I dud it. Id be going flat out in my 250 superkart. Id wait till the last second then the I stand on the brakes drop a few gears and stand on the gas. Worked every time
This doesn't just work on shifter karts. I drive a Radical SR1 and we do exactly the same. We hit early (before the apex) because max braking comes with max downforce. I'll trailbrake a little less because the aero will help through the apex, but it's the same physics on entry. Front axle load, get the rotation, touch the apex and go go go.
Question #1: I currently have an intrepid, and I do feel that I have the natural speed, but I dont feel that I get enough rotation out of the kart. I think part of this reason is because the intrepids have a stiffer chassis, and everyone else at my track USES otk, and they say that there is a big difference. Now, I have tried an otk before at the fwt and I loved it much better then my intrepid. My question is: how much of a difference does intrepid and otk vary in lap time? I do know that otk is faster. Question #2: I Want to keep a lock up for a short amount of time until I turn in, or do I stop that little lock up a bit before my turn in? bonus: when you do lock up when entering the corner, do you lock up to the point where the tyres completely stop spining?
Chassis tend to be preference, being from the uk I haven’t heard of an intrepid but otk karts are definitely popular for a reason. They flex more in the corners but are victim to welds snapping and the chassis getting bent in my experience.
Chassis is mostly driver preference. Most chassis are roughly the same lap time with setup adjustments and driver adaptations. But if you tested both and you really think OTK is better for you, and it’s faster, then get an OTK. Doesnt even have to be a whole new OTK kart, just a bare frame
#1: As far as different karts are in lap time, I can't tell you exactly. Some tracks like different chassis and other tracks its easier on another kart. I also have never driven a intrepid so I don't know what the difference would be. #2: Thats a good question. You want to stop the lockup before you make your turn in. The lockup should be minimal. #3: Yes, briefly. If you do it correctly, your lockup should be a point where the tires are just skidding in the braking zone not necessarily completely locked the entire time.
I find this interesting because I drive at trackhouse (if that’s relevant) and I’ve been told that trailbraking isn’t effective in karts and I’ve been skeptical but followed that advice and now I’m seeing this.
Hello, Ryan. I have a questuin about braking and grippy track. Last year I drove OKJ but now I went in to rotax senior and the corner technique is different. Last race in the first sesion of training I had crazy grip on the rear and was driving really good and turning only once in to the corner. Later on as there was more grip my rear started sliding. I was using an OTK medium axle and the setup felt too hard for the amount of grip there was. Also my frame is 2.5 yeras old so could it have made a differene in the corners where you lift the rear inside wheel? Do you think that when there is a lot of grip you should'nt use trail braking too much? later on we tried soft axle but it wasn't much better. Thank you.
Hey Ryan, i'd like to ask you a tip for my races. Most of the times i'm one of the fastest in qualifying but in the race i lose a lot of positions. My mechanics says it's because i look back too many times but if i don't do this how should i know when to defend? I also don't know when it's better to defend or keep following the racing line. Any advices?
Hey Ryan, here in Australia the general plan is to release the brakes to free up the kart and maximise mid corner speed. I'm a fairly inexperienced racer so I'd love your thoughts on that verses the trail?
Ben Spies once said, if you're not on the brake or throttle, you're losing lap time. This applies to karting too. Inches matter. Some people roll through the corner and sometimes that is faster, but not always. If the track, tires and kart can handle aggressive brake then throttle, then do it. Of course tire management can be an issue for long races using this technique, so the aggression level would have to be backed off for those races. I'm almost NEVER looking at the kart in front of me. I'm always looking way past them for the next few corners, planning my pass. Drive almost right up on their rear bumper, then the pass will come. Because even the best will make a mistake at some point.
@@realmichaeltian a cycling study showed that sodium bicarbonate led to significantly greater time to exhaustion if you are in to racing and want an edge.
no because with front brakes most of the time in the dry you would run 80-90% bias on the front. so being on the brake into the corner would allow for lockup on the front or understeering going into the corner.
As you go into a corner and get closer to the apex, the brakes are needed less and less because the lateral g-force is becoming high enough to do the work alone of keeping the inside rear tyre up. Until that point, the trail braking serves the purpose of fulling in the gap of insufficient lateral g-force as well as increasing the front bite for rotating the kart into the corner which is what will ultimately lead to the sufficient amount of lateral g-force.
That is the much more scientific explanation for it. Its really fascinating when you start to understand why we do what we do on track.
The rotation explanation being left out during the trail braking and turn in portion of the corner is what needs to be touched on. Leaving the balance more forward and being able to rotate the back end is the reason for trail braking in the first place.
really nice insight about trail braking in that 5% range of break pedal. I think it is my problem a bit, cause when I trail break, I seem to go from initial 95% to maybe 70-75%. Will definitively test it next time, thanks!
Yeah thats the problem for most people it seems. You'll be surprised how fast you can stop the kart.
Agree with you Vlad, I think this is the first time I hear about that. But just one question, it is like that in karting but we are ok that for other categories like GT cars it is not the same thing. I watch a lot of Suellio Almeida videos and he always teaches to trail brake at every %, from 100% to 0%. So I just want to be sure that this 5% range on the break pedal is only for karting
@@gregsbredeks9848 With karting its similar to formula cars in terms of hitting 100% then trailing off, what I understood with the 5% thing is that its the point that makes you the better driver than others, in the end braking is what makes you faster as you always want to increase rotation to increase your speed rather than just a higher minimum speed through a corner does not mean you are faster. Rotation makes you faster.
@@gregsbredeks9848 Also I think he meant that, majority of the braking is just getting the kart slowed down and the last 5% is what creates the rotation as trail breaking amplifies the steering input, thats why you neutral steer (steer with brakes)
@@pickly6670 okay thanks ! That's why in most fast karts (I mean not rental karts) I always see the steering being neutral or almost even if there is a turn. It really amazes me to be honest because GT cars are really not like that. I'm trying to learn that on rF2, I'm progressively understanding this physic
Great advice especially using the tense foot to relax foot technique, certainly will start to try this in this months race
I tend to try to get on the throttle earlier so I have better exit speeds then my opponents so I don’t really do trail brake but I try get the kart point to the apex and then get on the throttle a bit so that by the time I’m at the apex I’m full throttle
Is there any trial braking involved at all in a rental kart? Should you do all your braking in straight line before the turn? Or should you dab the brake and turn sharply at the same time?
for brakes I avoid thinking about travel because once you move past the dead zone, it doesnt travel that much. force/pressure matters the most once the pads fully contact the disc
hey ive watched a number of these on youtube and this is one of the best explanations. Seriously bro 🫡🫡
Hey Ryan, great video. I really enjoy your content. Even though I don’t even race anymore, I watch and kind of look back to see what I was doing wrong. In particular, the throttle application. Even in this video I was watching your right foot more closely. It’s insane to me, how much later you are on the throttle than I would be but of course you’re much faster. I did watch the throttle application video. But like this one, I hope you make a second Throttle video. Personally, I think the video is so fast and the travel is so short, that it’s too hard to see when you pick up the throttle and when you hit 100%. If you’ve ever run a throttle position sensor, it would be great to show the data. And maybe compare the result of early and too aggressive versus proper throttle application. All the best -
Thanks for watching! Thats a video I want to go over soon, just trying to find a way, like you said, to make it clear how to see a little more clearly.
@@NorbergNation Truthfully, I thought about it and you can just draw on some paper the difference in inputs. Like have the corner and racing line like you usually do and then on another sheet do the brake pressure and throttle trace. And maybe compare two “different” drivers. Like me, I would maybe stab the throttle to 100% a foot or two before the apex. Then sometimes the back slides out a few feet after the apex. I would like to see your style shown relative to your track position. So maybe arrows could connect the throttle position to the track map and show where you are at 0% through to where you hit wide open. Thanks again.
Great footage and explanation! I'm able to now take corners with minimal steering input, primarily relying on the brake and throttle to control the rotation.
I do know you guys but this is how I dud it. Id be going flat out in my 250 superkart. Id wait till the last second then the I stand on the brakes drop a few gears and stand on the gas. Worked every time
This doesn't just work on shifter karts. I drive a Radical SR1 and we do exactly the same. We hit early (before the apex) because max braking comes with max downforce.
I'll trailbrake a little less because the aero will help through the apex, but it's the same physics on entry. Front axle load, get the rotation, touch the apex and go go go.
Thanks Champ. Great advice 👍
Thank you so much for this video Ryan. We all appreciate it.
Thanks for watching!
@@NorbergNation Thanks so much this is gonna really help me
Thank you so much, just gotta save up to test this technique next time i can go rental karting❤
You can do it!
@@NorbergNation thank you so much
Question #1:
I currently have an intrepid, and I do feel that I have the natural speed, but I dont feel that I get enough rotation out of the kart. I think part of this reason is because the intrepids have a stiffer chassis, and everyone else at my track USES otk, and they say that there is a big difference. Now, I have tried an otk before at the fwt and I loved it much better then my intrepid. My question is: how much of a difference does intrepid and otk vary in lap time? I do know that otk is faster.
Question #2:
I Want to keep a lock up for a short amount of time until I turn in, or do I stop that little lock up a bit before my turn in?
bonus: when you do lock up when entering the corner, do you lock up to the point where the tyres completely stop spining?
Chassis tend to be preference, being from the uk I haven’t heard of an intrepid but otk karts are definitely popular for a reason. They flex more in the corners but are victim to welds snapping and the chassis getting bent in my experience.
Chassis is mostly driver preference. Most chassis are roughly the same lap time with setup adjustments and driver adaptations.
But if you tested both and you really think OTK is better for you, and it’s faster, then get an OTK. Doesnt even have to be a whole new OTK kart, just a bare frame
Idk to know about the answer on second question too please
#1: As far as different karts are in lap time, I can't tell you exactly. Some tracks like different chassis and other tracks its easier on another kart. I also have never driven a intrepid so I don't know what the difference would be.
#2: Thats a good question. You want to stop the lockup before you make your turn in. The lockup should be minimal.
#3: Yes, briefly. If you do it correctly, your lockup should be a point where the tires are just skidding in the braking zone not necessarily completely locked the entire time.
love your videos man thanks for all the help!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
I went karting and struggled braking then keeping the revs high and lost a lot of time. How do you do both well?
hi same is applicable to rental karts? tks
I find this interesting because I drive at trackhouse (if that’s relevant) and I’ve been told that trailbraking isn’t effective in karts and I’ve been skeptical but followed that advice and now I’m seeing this.
Hello, Ryan. I have a questuin about braking and grippy track. Last year I drove OKJ but now I went in to rotax senior and the corner technique is different. Last race in the first sesion of training I had crazy grip on the rear and was driving really good and turning only once in to the corner. Later on as there was more grip my rear started sliding. I was using an OTK medium axle and the setup felt too hard for the amount of grip there was. Also my frame is 2.5 yeras old so could it have made a differene in the corners where you lift the rear inside wheel? Do you think that when there is a lot of grip you should'nt use trail braking too much? later on we tried soft axle but it wasn't much better. Thank you.
Hey Ryan, i'd like to ask you a tip for my races. Most of the times i'm one of the fastest in qualifying but in the race i lose a lot of positions. My mechanics says it's because i look back too many times but if i don't do this how should i know when to defend? I also don't know when it's better to defend or keep following the racing line. Any advices?
How to adjust brake bias? Just to the front tires or 50:50, or 75:25?
1:28 Sounds right, it's my heart-breaking zone all the time.
does this apply aswell to karts with front brake discs, in my scenario a Birel Art DD2
Hey Ryan, here in Australia the general plan is to release the brakes to free up the kart and maximise mid corner speed. I'm a fairly inexperienced racer so I'd love your thoughts on that verses the trail?
Ben Spies once said, if you're not on the brake or throttle, you're losing lap time. This applies to karting too. Inches matter. Some people roll through the corner and sometimes that is faster, but not always. If the track, tires and kart can handle aggressive brake then throttle, then do it. Of course tire management can be an issue for long races using this technique, so the aggression level would have to be backed off for those races. I'm almost NEVER looking at the kart in front of me. I'm always looking way past them for the next few corners, planning my pass. Drive almost right up on their rear bumper, then the pass will come. Because even the best will make a mistake at some point.
How do I mitigate my hands cramping up ?
Relax on the straights, move your fingers and hands about a little
Magnesium and bananas more electrolytes
@@Juiced2528 yeah lowkey been realizing how dehydrated I always am
@@realmichaeltian a cycling study showed that sodium bicarbonate led to significantly greater time to exhaustion if you are in to racing and want an edge.
Is this much different in a lo206?
In the rain ?
Where do I pur my hands
#REASON 2 has a typo: WIEGHT instead of WEIGHT.
I love your content!
Thanks I caught that too.
Where is your gloves from i really want to buy them.
Where did you get them from?
They come out soon for sale on Minus273
The same for karts with front brakes?
no because with front brakes most of the time in the dry you would run 80-90% bias on the front. so being on the brake into the corner would allow for lockup on the front or understeering going into the corner.
Similar idea but the lockup isn't necessary. You don't really want to lockup with front brakes. The comment down below explains it well.
Hit hard initially then stay firm. Go deeper!
Perfect!
Another video!!!!!
“Brake to go faster”
OKC! 👍
You can't drive a Lo206 that way. Whole different technique.
LO206 doesn’t teach you any useful techniques
Would you like to share lo206 tricks?
Yes and no. Its a bit of a blend. But I will be doing a 4 stroke video soon. Im getting one in the next couple months so we will see.
@@NorbergNation IMO, driving a 206 "fast" is actually a little harder than a 100cc or larger 2 stroke.
Do you have Heterochromia? Thats looks sick!
First :) Nicee
first
I thought in a go-kart if there’s someone in front of you then their rear bumper is your brakes…
Whats the point if you cannot beat that bloody black Hamilton
Bloody what?
@@cyzw😂