For troubleshooting, this video was the best that I found. My problem was that my mower would not move. It just beeped. I checked the safety switch, the Anderson plug, all of it and was getting very frustrated. What I learned is that one of my back tires had a slow leak and the lack of balance affected the safety harness function. Once I used our compressor and aired up the tire, I was in business. I was so frustrated that I hope that this will help someone else bypass that problem and feeling of helplessness in short order. Check your tire pressure if nothing else works. It may be that simple a fix.
Okay, thank you! This worked for the mower shutting off. I pushed the seat clip in a bit better and it worked. Now to watch the other video as my mower is not holding a charge and it is only 2 years old.
Excellent how-to video. I have lost the axle breather plug and I cannot find a replacement. Any idea where I could purchase a replacement axle breather plug? It cannot be ordered from Ryobi parts without purchasing the complete axle about $450.00.
This is the only lawn mower I've owned that DOESN'T mow my lawn. When it's at 50% battery it's time to put it away to charge because it stops moving when the blade is spinning.
These machines are trash. It’s highway robbery they continue to sell them. Wish I had known better before dumping thousands of dollars in the waste bin.
Hello! I have an RM480EX, and for the last year, one of the two blades starts getting slower and eventually stops until you slow the mower down and wait for it to restart/get back up to speed. It takes a LOT LONGER to mow the lawn, and it's making it very difficult. I thought it could be the batteries, but I checked all of them, and each one has sufficient amps. What else can I check? I did replace the deck, but the issue happened before/after the deck replacement.
So RTFM, and not actually debugging which modules are failing on the RY48110 and other riding mowers, which happens frequently in my experience. I've had mine for 8 years now and every 3 years it's been something new failing. I would not buy again, but now I'm stuck.
My 480e charging port isn’t recognising the charger. Batteries are fully charged. Mower is working. So somewhere between the Power Charging Socket and the batteries, there is something wrong. The charger has been tested and is working perfectly. Any ideas?
My problem is the ON/OFF/AUX switch on my RY 48111 mower seems to not be working. When I try to turn it to the on position the battery indicator lights flicker but they will not stay lighted. The mower will not run unless I fiddle with the switch but sometimes this does not work. Any Suggestions?
It could be the charge cable interlock. The charge port contains surprisingly some circuitry on a small pcb which connects via a blue cable to a solid state relay which connects to the controller. You can bypass the lot in connecting the red and yellow wires but on first contact there will be sparks as a capacitor is involved at the controller side.
The biggest trouble is the fact that Lead-Acid batteries are used in a deep cycle application. Next trouble is that people then buy 4 12V lithium batteries which have individual BMSes making them balanced within the 12V but not as a 48V battery. 16 105Ah EVE LFP cells and a JK active balancer is my recommendation here.
I hate my ryobi riding lawnmower. Have had it for two years. Had to replace all the batteries after year one. Never worked as well. Isn’t reliable and now again doesn’t go 5 feet without shutting off. HUGE waste of thousands of dollars. I can’t recommend staying far away from these machines enough.
I just picked up a 30hour 480 for with failed batteries cheap (AU$1200) and installed 16 105 LFP cells with a good BMS incl. display. Cost AU$1200 but much longer running times and it will last forever.
that's three summers so far - car batteries can last 5 years or more, so as long as you keep it on the charger when not in use these batteries should last.
For troubleshooting, this video was the best that I found. My problem was that my mower would not move. It just beeped. I checked the safety switch, the Anderson plug, all of it and was getting very frustrated. What I learned is that one of my back tires had a slow leak and the lack of balance affected the safety harness function. Once I used our compressor and aired up the tire, I was in business. I was so frustrated that I hope that this will help someone else bypass that problem and feeling of helplessness in short order. Check your tire pressure if nothing else works. It may be that simple a fix.
Thanks for the help... I also read the manual as well... But it helps seeing it visual as well
Okay, thank you! This worked for the mower shutting off. I pushed the seat clip in a bit better and it worked. Now to watch the other video as my mower is not holding a charge and it is only 2 years old.
Excellent how-to video. I have lost the axle breather plug and I cannot find a replacement. Any idea where I could purchase a replacement axle breather plug? It cannot be ordered from Ryobi parts without purchasing the complete axle about $450.00.
This is the only lawn mower I've owned that DOESN'T mow my lawn. When it's at 50% battery it's time to put it away to charge because it stops moving when the blade is spinning.
These machines are trash. It’s highway robbery they continue to sell them. Wish I had known better before dumping thousands of dollars in the waste bin.
Mine is stone dead when I turn the key on. Was working fine. I plugged it into the charger two days ago after after cutting the lawn
Hello!
I have an RM480EX, and for the last year, one of the two blades starts getting slower and eventually stops until you slow the mower down and wait for it to restart/get back up to speed.
It takes a LOT LONGER to mow the lawn, and it's making it very difficult.
I thought it could be the batteries, but I checked all of them, and each one has sufficient amps. What else can I check?
I did replace the deck, but the issue happened before/after the deck replacement.
Same here . Did you found a solution?
So RTFM, and not actually debugging which modules are failing on the RY48110 and other riding mowers, which happens frequently in my experience. I've had mine for 8 years now and every 3 years it's been something new failing. I would not buy again, but now I'm stuck.
My 480e charging port isn’t recognising the charger. Batteries are fully charged. Mower is working. So somewhere between the Power Charging Socket and the batteries, there is something wrong. The charger has been tested and is working perfectly. Any ideas?
1000x merci!
My problem is the ON/OFF/AUX switch on my RY 48111 mower seems to not be working. When I try to turn it to the on position the battery indicator lights flicker but they will not stay lighted. The mower will not run unless I fiddle with the switch but sometimes this does not work. Any Suggestions?
@Cerceify that means your batteries are weak
It's the key switch. Ryobi has to send you a new one. Cheap crap parts.
It could be the charge cable interlock. The charge port contains surprisingly some circuitry on a small pcb which connects via a blue cable to a solid state relay which connects to the controller. You can bypass the lot in connecting the red and yellow wires but on first contact there will be sparks as a capacitor is involved at the controller side.
My brand new lawnmower always gets stuck in park
The biggest trouble is the fact that Lead-Acid batteries are used in a deep cycle application. Next trouble is that people then buy 4 12V lithium batteries which have individual BMSes making them balanced within the 12V but not as a 48V battery. 16 105Ah EVE LFP cells and a JK active balancer is my recommendation here.
I hate my ryobi riding lawnmower. Have had it for two years. Had to replace all the batteries after year one. Never worked as well. Isn’t reliable and now again doesn’t go 5 feet without shutting off. HUGE waste of thousands of dollars. I can’t recommend staying far away from these machines enough.
Protip: Don't by a Ryobi Rider mower. The four batteries will die in two years. $800 replacement.
I just picked up a 30hour 480 for with failed batteries cheap (AU$1200) and installed 16 105 LFP cells with a good BMS incl. display. Cost AU$1200 but much longer running times and it will last forever.
we've just got three summers out of our batteries and still get near the 2 hour runtime we had when new. 80 hours on the meter now.
that's three summers so far - car batteries can last 5 years or more, so as long as you keep it on the charger when not in use these batteries should last.
@@motorbyclistshould….but they don’t.
@@moestreithat’s great but who would want to dump 1200 into a 4000 machine just to make it work?