Just starting out with alpine climbing and it's hard to find courses that teach you all this stuff so watching videos like this certainly helps but most of it goes over my head a little lol.
How often do you find yourself actually using fixed protection? Over here in the U.S., I think our definition of scrambling is a little more mellow than what you're doing. I've done some American "class 4" scrambling which means hands needed and potentially high consequences for a fall, but if I'm getting into territory where I feel I need a rope, I'm turning back. I guess it's more of an "all or nothing" situation for me--either I'm scrambling with no gear placements, or it's trad climbing.
Thanks for the message. There's a blurred line between the bottom end of trad climbing and harder scrambling. On Grade 3 terrain (top end scrambling here) you can expect to encounter short pitches of Diff, or even VDiff. So using trad pro is pretty normal to protect both the leader and the belay. On easier ground you can often use the terrain itself to protect any tricky sections (direct belay off a block for example), but it's pretty normal to use the odd sling or a couple of wires where this it the best option. All the best. Si at Lakeland Ascents.
Hello, nice video! Good instructions in there, thanks for it! Question, if I may? What's the backpack, please? So that we know where to stuff the gear... Thanks!
Probably ~40L. Some will probably say that's too big. Any decent pack will cince down tightly when not at capacity. Nice to have room for water, lunch, puffy and rain gear.
It really depends on so many things. Eg where you are going, how much stuff you need to bring, weather conditions etc. in ‘summer’ I use a 20L ish pack, but in colder conditions 35 works well for me.
Good insight into what a guide carries. For me I'd have halfnuts/superlight offsets in there somewhere, they're really nice and mixed with a few standard nuts you can get a good versatile rack for not much extra weight, and with no fall factor involved they're a solid choice at 7kN. My short single rope is a 35m x10mm from decathlon, only cost me £30! Just to clarify, you carry 7 lockers and 4x 120s also on lockers? Seems a lot but I suppose if I'm going with a mate who has 3 and I have maybe 5/6 it's not too far off,given your kit is for guiding. And those Edelrid slings are fantastic to untie! I got a 120, I have 2x dyneema and a nylon. I will be around the South Lakes next week so may get a few routes in, any must do routes? My only G2/3 are Cneifion Arete mostly solo (damp) and the Aonach Eagach in summer unroped.
Thanks for the reply. Half nuts could definitely be a good shout as a lightweight option. Personally I wouldn’t double up with the main rack though - it would be one or the other. I never really find the need to use offsets on a scramble as there is usually a normal placement not far away. For climbing though they’re great - especially in the Lakes. The lockers cover everything I need to do to take coils and have 2 clients on a rope as well. Then have 2 clients safe on a belay as well as have enough to build another belay at the next stance and then maybe use a big one for an Italian Hitch or similar. I carry the 120s on lockers just because the Phantoms are so small and light there’s little reason not to. Think 2 piece belay = 2 biners 2 clients attached to belay = 2 New belay = 2 My attachment to belay = 1 My coils tied off = 1 Middle client tied off = 1 End client tied off = 1 Italian Hitch = 1 You quickly get through them! Routes. Pinnacle Ridge is the obvious one. Cam Crag Ridge too. Have fun.
@@lakelandhighlandascents perfect, so that kinda ties into what I was thinking but with 2x clients there's additional requirements. For 2 with one person block leading 9 between us both should be plenty. Those little DMM phantoms are fantastic, I got the decathlon rocky which is almost identical in size but round stock bar so a bit heavier. Pinnacle Ridge is on my to-do, I'll check out cam crag ridge 👍 Thanks!
Sometimes people want to experience or possibly start something that they don’t have the expertise to do safely on their own. Nothing wrong with paying a guide to get you started. Much rather that than people stupidly make the mistake of trying on their own and having to be rescued or die making stupid mistakes.
Certainly in North America that ain’t scrambling, Sally. Roping up, placing gear and creating anchors with high consequence falls is fifth class, not fourth class scrambling.
Just starting out with alpine climbing and it's hard to find courses that teach you all this stuff so watching videos like this certainly helps but most of it goes over my head a little lol.
You’ll get there. Enjoy the journey! Check out our website if you’re keen on formal courses too.
Really like your presentation style Si… 🤩👍
Ace. Thanks Cliff. Means a lot 🙏
Super video , well done
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video - thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
How often do you find yourself actually using fixed protection? Over here in the U.S., I think our definition of scrambling is a little more mellow than what you're doing. I've done some American "class 4" scrambling which means hands needed and potentially high consequences for a fall, but if I'm getting into territory where I feel I need a rope, I'm turning back. I guess it's more of an "all or nothing" situation for me--either I'm scrambling with no gear placements, or it's trad climbing.
Thanks for the message. There's a blurred line between the bottom end of trad climbing and harder scrambling. On Grade 3 terrain (top end scrambling here) you can expect to encounter short pitches of Diff, or even VDiff. So using trad pro is pretty normal to protect both the leader and the belay. On easier ground you can often use the terrain itself to protect any tricky sections (direct belay off a block for example), but it's pretty normal to use the odd sling or a couple of wires where this it the best option. All the best. Si at Lakeland Ascents.
Hello, nice video! Good instructions in there, thanks for it! Question, if I may? What's the backpack, please? So that we know where to stuff the gear... Thanks!
Hi there. It’s a Mountain Equipment Tupilak. Maybe 32 litre ish.
What size backpack/style do you recommend for scrambling?
Probably ~40L. Some will probably say that's too big. Any decent pack will cince down tightly when not at capacity. Nice to have room for water, lunch, puffy and rain gear.
It really depends on so many things. Eg where you are going, how much stuff you need to bring, weather conditions etc. in ‘summer’ I use a 20L ish pack, but in colder conditions 35 works well for me.
Good insight into what a guide carries. For me I'd have halfnuts/superlight offsets in there somewhere, they're really nice and mixed with a few standard nuts you can get a good versatile rack for not much extra weight, and with no fall factor involved they're a solid choice at 7kN. My short single rope is a 35m x10mm from decathlon, only cost me £30! Just to clarify, you carry 7 lockers and 4x 120s also on lockers? Seems a lot but I suppose if I'm going with a mate who has 3 and I have maybe 5/6 it's not too far off,given your kit is for guiding. And those Edelrid slings are fantastic to untie! I got a 120, I have 2x dyneema and a nylon.
I will be around the South Lakes next week so may get a few routes in, any must do routes? My only G2/3 are Cneifion Arete mostly solo (damp) and the Aonach Eagach in summer unroped.
Thanks for the reply. Half nuts could definitely be a good shout as a lightweight option. Personally I wouldn’t double up with the main rack though - it would be one or the other. I never really find the need to use offsets on a scramble as there is usually a normal placement not far away. For climbing though they’re great - especially in the Lakes.
The lockers cover everything I need to do to take coils and have 2 clients on a rope as well. Then have 2 clients safe on a belay as well as have enough to build another belay at the next stance and then maybe use a big one for an Italian Hitch or similar. I carry the 120s on lockers just because the Phantoms are so small and light there’s little reason not to.
Think
2 piece belay = 2 biners
2 clients attached to belay = 2
New belay = 2
My attachment to belay = 1
My coils tied off = 1
Middle client tied off = 1
End client tied off = 1
Italian Hitch = 1
You quickly get through them!
Routes. Pinnacle Ridge is the obvious one. Cam Crag Ridge too. Have fun.
@@lakelandhighlandascents perfect, so that kinda ties into what I was thinking but with 2x clients there's additional requirements. For 2 with one person block leading 9 between us both should be plenty. Those little DMM phantoms are fantastic, I got the decathlon rocky which is almost identical in size but round stock bar so a bit heavier.
Pinnacle Ridge is on my to-do, I'll check out cam crag ridge 👍
Thanks!
@@mattbaker1683 Yeah 9 will be more than enough. Have fun.
Client.....says it all about the commercialisation of the experience on the hill...
Sometimes people want to experience or possibly start something that they don’t have the expertise to do safely on their own. Nothing wrong with paying a guide to get you started. Much rather that than people stupidly make the mistake of trying on their own and having to be rescued or die making stupid mistakes.
Certainly in North America that ain’t scrambling, Sally. Roping up, placing gear and creating anchors with high consequence falls is fifth class, not fourth class scrambling.
Just definitions. As long as you're having a great day out, who cares what it's called?
Solo it