I'm a bit skeptical about advising to prioritize heels over toes. It's true that heels are an extremely powerful technique when the situation is right, and they are very useful to suck your hips in, but I see too many people who climb mostly indoors and learn to use heels even before their master the full potential of what they can do with the point of their foot. Knowing how to position precisely the toe, trust the friction and build body tension with poor footholds is an underestimated skill, and much more versatile than heels, that are like a more specific weapon in my opinion (it also requires relatively specific strengths like flexibility and powerful hamstrings)
Yep, all this is true. But I don't think I said heels should be prioritized over toes. Simply that rocking onto a heel gives you a mechanical advantage compared to rocking onto a toe. So it must be considered. This isn't to say there aren't countless possible situations where a toe is better. Rocking onto a heel can 'lock you in' in really well but then also limit your movement afterwards.
I got way better with my heels before my toes were ever useful, few years of board climbing later my toes have definitely caught up but still any given foot big enough for my heel can always take a significant more weight than my toe just because it can let you sit lower under a hold and is literally a foot closer to your center of mass
i always stretch my hips before climbing by going into the splits. i feel like a knob head while doing it since i see no one else warming up like that, but it helps i think haha. if you are trying the technique of pushing your hips as close to the wall, and you still cant catch that crimp, is the solution to just work on your finger strength then?
Got it. Condition the skin of my hips, decelerate my grip versatility, and sand down holds to improve crimps.
Make sure to chip in jugs on your gyms rock wall
I'm a bit skeptical about advising to prioritize heels over toes. It's true that heels are an extremely powerful technique when the situation is right, and they are very useful to suck your hips in, but I see too many people who climb mostly indoors and learn to use heels even before their master the full potential of what they can do with the point of their foot. Knowing how to position precisely the toe, trust the friction and build body tension with poor footholds is an underestimated skill, and much more versatile than heels, that are like a more specific weapon in my opinion (it also requires relatively specific strengths like flexibility and powerful hamstrings)
Yep, all this is true. But I don't think I said heels should be prioritized over toes. Simply that rocking onto a heel gives you a mechanical advantage compared to rocking onto a toe. So it must be considered. This isn't to say there aren't countless possible situations where a toe is better. Rocking onto a heel can 'lock you in' in really well but then also limit your movement afterwards.
I got way better with my heels before my toes were ever useful, few years of board climbing later my toes have definitely caught up but still any given foot big enough for my heel can always take a significant more weight than my toe just because it can let you sit lower under a hold and is literally a foot closer to your center of mass
I just came from a session thinking that I need to work on crimps. Thanks for this!
Yes, I am one of those weak hand warriors
Concept 0.5 to crimping harder: be Will Bosi.
Watched this video in the morning and the deceleration tip helped me send my project :) thanks for the help! 🎉
Love this! Great work on the send!
awesome, great attention for detail and movement skills. thanks
thank you lattice training for making climbing more understandable
This was sick tbf new to climbing and will defo give those a go
Really nice job Josh! 💪💪
i always stretch my hips before climbing by going into the splits. i feel like a knob head while doing it since i see no one else warming up like that, but it helps i think haha. if you are trying the technique of pushing your hips as close to the wall, and you still cant catch that crimp, is the solution to just work on your finger strength then?
yes..
5) Nails
not long, but also not very short. Long enough to support skin on small edges. stright end of nails, not arch.
Good summary
Does anyone have the link to the full-crimping vid with Anna? I can't find it...
What’s the brand of the stone crimp?