Відео

Just definitions. As long as you're having a great day out, who cares what it's called?

Probably ~40L. Some will probably say that's too big. Any decent pack will cince down tightly when not at capacity. Nice to have room for water, lunch, puffy and rain gear.

It really depends on so many things. Eg where you are going, how much stuff you need to bring, weather conditions etc. in ‘summer’ I use a 20L ish pack, but in colder conditions 35 works well for me.

Thanks for the message! I think it’s roughly 32L. Awesome pack and ideal for stuff when you need a bit more kit, or in winter. Nope, didn’t get that vid done but I’ll try and get one sorted in the next few weeks!

You’ll get there. Enjoy the journey! Check out our website if you’re keen on formal courses too.

Coming soon!

Hi there. It’s a Mountain Equipment Tupilak. Maybe 32 litre ish.

Thanks for the question. It’s a hard one to answer as it depends massively on the person who is wearing the boot! So, assuming a good fit between the boot and the crampon, someone who is very comfortable on steep snow and ice is going to be happier with a C1 on steeper terrain that someone who is new to the game. Let’s not forget that the first ascents of many steep ice routes were done with no crampons and by cutting steps and hand holds with an axe! Not that I’m endorsing that approach, but it does highlight my point. Regardless, C2s and above are going to perform better than C1s as the ground gets steeper - that’s a fact, due to the design.

@@lakelandhighlandascents Yeah, that's true. I've only tested mine on hard-packed snow up to 26°, and around 40-45° by cutting steps without crampons. I still haven't had the chance to go on something very steep as I don't know a lot of people so they can trust me, but I am thinking of just going for a B3 with a C3 when I have some money.

Sometimes people want to experience or possibly start something that they don’t have the expertise to do safely on their own. Nothing wrong with paying a guide to get you started. Much rather that than people stupidly make the mistake of trying on their own and having to be rescued or die making stupid mistakes.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for the message. There's a blurred line between the bottom end of trad climbing and harder scrambling. On Grade 3 terrain (top end scrambling here) you can expect to encounter short pitches of Diff, or even VDiff. So using trad pro is pretty normal to protect both the leader and the belay. On easier ground you can often use the terrain itself to protect any tricky sections (direct belay off a block for example), but it's pretty normal to use the odd sling or a couple of wires where this it the best option. All the best. Si at Lakeland Ascents.

You play many times and gravity only has to win once😊

I've lived in the UK all my life, and I still feel the cold! I just wear lots of jackets :)

Hi Freddie, sorry that I missed this comment. I'd want zero movement between the crampon and the boot. So get it fitted, then try hard to move the 2 independently. With a really well fitted crampon, you'll get little to no movement. I'd also want the heal of the boot to have little to no gap between the boot and the rear lugs; no gap under the toe and the crampon to nicely follow the profile of the boot. I'm assuming you mean G5s and this isn't a typo of TX5, which is definitely not going to work with a Dart!!

Thank you!

Do you mean the bar is too small or too long? If there is bar sticking out of the back of the crampon (i.e., it's too long), then either cut it short, or try swapping the left and right bar and turning them the other way around (so the front of the bar becomes the rear) - you'll get a better fit for smaller boots. Google will find you a video on how this works. If you mean it's only just long enough, then the last hole is fine, as long as the fit elsewhere is good.

Many thanks!

The boots in the vid aren't the Rapace, but Rapace are a B2. They'll take a C2 or C1 crampon. Just not a C3 as they don't have the front 'lip' for the wire bail.

Video quality is just fine, but could have some more light in the middle where the boots are presented..

Hi. They’re Aku boots. I think the model is the Superalp.

Glad it was helpful!

Clove hitches not overhands, unless we’re talking about different things

@@lakelandhighlandascents different things, I've never done the clove method with slings, only rope. So many ways to do things, these are 2 great examples where you may have used your 240 at the last belay and need that extra bit. Excellent video.

Cool. Thanks for the pictures you sent through. Yes many ways to skin a cat 🐈. I’d prefer cloves in that situation still as more adjustable. Personally I don’t carry a 240. Well very rarely. All good though!

Thanks for the reply. Half nuts could definitely be a good shout as a lightweight option. Personally I wouldn’t double up with the main rack though - it would be one or the other. I never really find the need to use offsets on a scramble as there is usually a normal placement not far away. For climbing though they’re great - especially in the Lakes. The lockers cover everything I need to do to take coils and have 2 clients on a rope as well. Then have 2 clients safe on a belay as well as have enough to build another belay at the next stance and then maybe use a big one for an Italian Hitch or similar. I carry the 120s on lockers just because the Phantoms are so small and light there’s little reason not to. Think 2 piece belay = 2 biners 2 clients attached to belay = 2 New belay = 2 My attachment to belay = 1 My coils tied off = 1 Middle client tied off = 1 End client tied off = 1 Italian Hitch = 1 You quickly get through them! Routes. Pinnacle Ridge is the obvious one. Cam Crag Ridge too. Have fun.

@@lakelandhighlandascents perfect, so that kinda ties into what I was thinking but with 2x clients there's additional requirements. For 2 with one person block leading 9 between us both should be plenty. Those little DMM phantoms are fantastic, I got the decathlon rocky which is almost identical in size but round stock bar so a bit heavier. Pinnacle Ridge is on my to-do, I'll check out cam crag ridge 👍 Thanks!

@@mattbaker1683 Yeah 9 will be more than enough. Have fun.

Ace. Thanks Cliff. Means a lot 🙏

Hey 👋 and thanks for the message. I have both, including 2 versions of the Combi. The blue/silver version and the black/yellow version. We’re supported by Salewa so obviously we should tell you to buy those, but in reality you need to go somewhere and try them with your boots and see which are the most solid fit. The Vasak is brilliant. As is the Combi. I really like the way on the newer Combi, you can adjust the strap length so you don’t end up with loads of spare strap to stash away. Cool design.

@@lakelandhighlandascents Thank you very much for your prompt response. The Salewa crampon that I am evaluating is the blue and silver Combi. I have doubts with the comparison of both antiboot systems, and I would also like to know if the Combi will rust over time (the appearance of the steel makes me doubt, have you been able to experience it?). Apparently they both fit my boots equally well. As a difference, I notice that the central regulatory union of the Petzl is more solid.

Any rust will only be surface rust and if you dry them properly it will be minimal. I wouldn’t worry about it. Both are good options so go with the best price maybe or whichever you like the colour of 👌

The only anti balling system that actually works well is the one on Grivel crampons. Just keep an eye on your crampons in wet snow and give them a regular tap with your axe. It’s fine.

Thanks! 🙏 We’ll get on it ASAP. We’ve been a bit busy working 🤦🏻

They’re really helpful! I’m new to climbing 👍🏽

Great to hear! Thanks.

Hope it’s useful!

Hey David. Thanks for the message. Yes you can on the Vasak. They usually come with both the plastic cradle and the metal bail but they’ll be easy enough to pick up aftermarket as well. Si Quick update on this. It will depend on how new your crampons are I think, as the older version couldn’t be swapped over as far as I know. The latest can though.

Hey Tim. Thanks for the comment. I think I understand what you’re asking but let me know if I’ve got the wrong end of the stick. As long as the coils are tied off securely and neatly, it doesn’t matter whether you tie the overhand (i.e., the knot that ties off the coils) around just the live rope or encompassing that first strand too. The initial bight needs to capture all the strands though. There are loads of ways of tying off coils so go with whatever you find easiest for you. Some folk encompass the actual tie in loop too - just another option. Some use an 8 rather than an overhand. All are fine. Same with your second question - whatever seems easiest for you. Personally I like my coils under my right arm (so on my left shoulder) but others do the opposite. Have a play and see what you like best 👍 🙏

@@lakelandhighlandascents thanks! 🙂