Buying Your First Pair Of Climbing Shoes | Beginners Perspective
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- Опубліковано 16 бер 2023
- In this video I go through the process of when and how I chose my 1st and 2nd pairs of climbing shoes.
If you're thinking of getting climbing shoes yourself, this video is for you!
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#rockclimbing #bouldering #climbing #shopping #shoes #howto - Спорт
Personally, I think you should buy your first pair of shoes as soon as you commit to climbing. Waiting until you can climb V3/4 or until you’ve gone through a number of punch cards could take months! If you enjoy climbing, why wait? New shoes are a huge confidence booster, and if you’re buying a starter shoe like BD Momentums or LS Tarantulas, you’ll only be out a hundred dollars.
Also, don’t boil your shoes… lol
100% here, climbing up to V4 in rental shoes just sounds unpleasant
His gym also grades really soft so it might be different for him.
It's not the best to waste a lot of money on shoes that can perform on a way higher level than what you're actually climbing because you just eat thru the rubber very fast. In 4 months you end up with holes in your toes and the need to buy another pair. If you're not hooking, what's the point in having something you don't use? Also as a beginner you don't rlly know what a stiff shoe is good for and what a soft one can/can't do. And lastly, a neutral beginner shoe helps you develop better technique actually, because you rlly have to put extra effort into foot placement. If it's not perfect, because of the bad quality of rubber, you'll slip off. So it's a long term friend to develop good habits from the beginning. But hey, just an advice, take it or leave it 😊
As someone who has narrow heels, dead space was common for my climbing shoes (Tenya mundaka/Evolv Sharma). I run Scarpa Booster and Tenya Tanta now. Testing is very important for shoes, as well as understanding the shape of the shoe.
Hope your shoes work great for you in the future!
3:48 can’t believe he did this 😂 my boy boiled his shoes 😅fantastic video!
I had to try it😂
For the smell , there is a big difference between synthetic or leather ones (also on whether they will enlarge / stretch a bit after a while). Try smell bags which absorb moisture and give a nice smell. They last like 6 months and in Europe they cost like 10 bucks.
My old 5.10 synthetics would be disgusting, but my real leather solutions ain't too bad
When I was trying shoes and buying my newest pair, the most comfortable pair in my gym for me was the most expensive as well, I also went for one with more rubber on the toes and some aggression
Awesome vid!
Thank you!
I just put them in the washing machine with lots of detergent. Internet says not to but I swear it works well. I have 2 pairs of Dragos one pair of Furias I just get them resoled every few months and cycle through the shoes. Resoling is less than half the price of a new pair.
I actually tried the washing machine and it didn't really do much. Maybe I didn't use enough detergent
@@stianseba_ I put the detergent in the shoes and let them sit for a bit before starting the cycle. Or with the pods I put a tide pod in each shoe.
Ahh, that's probably why mine didn't do anything
my climbing shoes are sooo comfy. i want to get a second pair that are much more aggressive then i’ll only wear them on the harder climbs where i need them. downsize is dropping money on a second pair!
And you gotta bring both to the gym!
Conquring real v4's can take a beginner 6+ months. I'd say the moment you want make climbing a real hobby. Buy shoes.
I started in cheapish scarpa helix, then went for a more expensive pair of evolv geshidos as they fit my feet amazingly for more aggressive shoes wore through them and now climb in evolv defys which are beginner shoes again because when I wore through the geshidos and had to go back to the helix I realised I could do the same things with the helix it just took a little more effort and precision so now when I go back to aggressive shoes it will feel like a cakewalk.
Oh wow, I guess that goes to show that good shoes are not really necessary to climb good, but they can definitely make it easier
Literally just commented this!! Is this person me? Lol
😂
Which Size did you get vs your daily shoes ?
try putting ur shoes in a bag and stick it in the freezer overnight XD or just buy some isopropyl alcohol spray (used in bowling alleys for rental shoes)
My shoes got smelly and I just rinsed them with a warm wet towel and baking soda (kind of difficult but it worked) and the smell is 90% gone, barely there if you put your nose to it
Hmm I might give that a try next time I have the problem.
Baking soda does help, can confirm.
Sound odd that they didn't recomand instinct vsr, they're more oriented towards gym climbing, but if u got the vs for outdoor as well it's ok
Nice video! I personally love soft shoes, it just takes a bit for you feet to get used to them. My favorites are the insctinct VSR (a little softer than the VS) and the Drago. Most important thing is fit, if you are a beginner don't go for painful ones. I made this mistake with my 2nd pair and after a few sessions my feet hurt so much that I couldn't climb in them anymore. I feel like some times the people helping you fit them on can push you to go for a size that is too small. Personally out of all the brands Scarpa shoes fit my foot profile the best.
Yeah I definitely didn't want shoes that were too tight, I managed to talk to someone who had the same pair and he told me once you break them in they become much better so I decided on a size that was just slightly uncomfortable and I'm already feeling then get better
Well i kind of made that mistake. My first pair of shoes was US size 10, i bought them after about a month of climbing. Used them for about three months and i was progressing pretty quickly. Around V5-V6 grades the shoes started to seem too big since I was slipping a lot, especially on small holds. So after 3 months there was a sale in my local shop and i decided to get new ones. Bought la sportiva solutions size 7.5, which were A LOT smaller than my previous shoes. There was some space in my heel so i kept getting smaller ones and ended up with 7.5 😂. During the first session with them my heels started hurting like crazy and big toes got hurt pretty bad too. I've had one more session since then and the shoes already felt a lot better, heels didnt hurt much. Maybe they are too small but i feel like it's the right size since they will probably feel much more comfortable after getting used to them. Pro climbers probably use even smaller shoes
good video
Thanks
If your heel hooks hurt, that has absolutely nothing at all to do with your shoes. It means you are doing heel hooks wrong. You are supposed to hook with the ball of your heel, aka the bone. If you are hooking on soft tissue, you are doing it wrong.
edit: regarding smell - use boot bananas. They solve this. And don't store your shoes in a bag at home.
Washing them by hand in hot water is probs better than boiling, doesn't really mess with the glue
You're probably right, with this new pair I think I'm gonna try some other methods first, just because I'm lazy and don't wanna wash by hand
@@stianseba_ Takes like 5mins to rinse them out in hot water in the sink :P
But then I gotta dry them haha. I know it's dumb but I heard there's some banana thing that you leave in the shoes, so if that works it's easier😅
@@stianseba_ Air drying them works fine, you live in Florida right? Try air drying stuff in the middle of winter somewhere cold and get back to me.
Yeah boot bananas work, although you may still eventually need to wash em, or it may help tightening up the heel
Bro, you BOILED your shoe. Absolute mad lad. Somewhere down the line check out the madrock drone high volume, probably my favorite climbing shoe ever and I’ve been through a lot of shoes/brands.
The reason your toes would hurt when you down size the shoe is because they are not used to the position of being hooked in the shoe yet. That's the main reason why people buy oversized shoes for their first performance shoe. It's important to get used to it, and your toes will adapt to it eventually. Before you go through that process you can't ever have a performance shoe that fits you well. I can see it from your youtube shorts that you don't only have dead space in the heel cup but over your instep also because the top of the shoe "rolls" when you smear with it. You may not feel the problem with the easy climbs you do now but once you get to try moonboard, outdoor bouldering or just harder climbs you'll find difficulties when locking the toe on really small footholds.
What I mean to say is that once your toes adapt to the position, you can buy tighter shoes without them hurting you and actually get benefits from the type of a shoe you have.
The shoes have already felt better than my previous ones, but you're likely right in my foot just needing to get used to the position to unlock the full benefits
Personal opinion, scarpa dragos are the best
My gym didn't have those. Maybe I'll look for them next time I need a new pair
@@stianseba_ yea go ahead. They have soft rubber which are really nice. I use them for lead and bouldering as well as most of my team using them.
Great vid I’ve just gotten into climbing as well and am looking to get a pair of my own. Also you’re hot
Haha thank you😅
My climbing shoes are super uncomfortable
Oooffff that sucks
Always explode toes.
Hahaha have mercy
@@stianseba_ If you can fit 5 sizes below your normal shoe size, they actually break the laws of physics and you levitate.