I like shelves that fit plastic bins for a lot of my odd parts and items. That's helped me to organize a lot better than I used to. The key is very detailed and large print labeling of what's in each bin, or else I'm very likely to forget what I have. I've been meaning to also make a digital list of all the stuff I have so I can quickly search through it before deciding I need to buy something.
Thank you again Ben for sharing this channel years ago in one of you community posts. I think it was at the beginning of the railway project. I've watched every video since then, yours too of course. It's really nice to see your comments pop up here.
Tim, you have the most marvelously simple solutions to some really quite annoying challenges. I so eagerly look forward to your video uploads 😊 I'm studying to be an engineer right now and I hope one day I can solve problems like you do!
Over this side of the pond, that material is called OSB -- "Oriented Strand Board". It is also available cheaply here and is often used for sheathing on both walls and roofs over here.
The way you created three sizes of drawer out of one cut file or part pleases me to no end. It ensures that you can just build racks and drawers that fit anywhere until you run out of room to mount them and things to fill them with. The only thing better would be a drawer box that just used one size piece to create the square drawer by butting and lapping itself in a square circle so to speak. Excellent video!
The solution in the plywood furniture industry is to just add a little semicircular cut inside the corner so that the other board can make a square fit. This has the disadvantage of making a slight gap in the corners though. In furniture its all covered up however. I really like your solution here, Ill have to keep it in my box clever ideas Ive stolen from others!
Very nice indeed. I will need to make similar drawer sets for my new machine shop. A couple of ideas come to mind about the curved fit between the finger joints, where the CNC machine can do all the work, on the stock, as it lies flat. Being lazy, I like to let the machines do all the work ;) .
I love it. That is an absolutely great way of organizing your workshop. I too keep most of my tools in drawers (about 70). You can pack them full, yet your stuff stays organised and accessible.
Ive been thinking for a while about making a mini cnc router just for doing fancy joinery. Glad to see someone test this concept for me, this shows me it'd be feasible!
Not having the wonderful tools that you have, nor the space, and definitely not the skills, my solution looks very much like yours, but I had to cobble it together with IKEA components. A lot more expensive and difficult to customize to fit particular spaces. I have no idea what other people are seeing, but it's great that the ads being attached to your videos are getting more appropriate lately. Today, it was Lee Valley Tools, a Canadian company that specializes in hardware, fine woodworking tools and everything that would make it a candy shop. Maybe the algorithms are getting smarter, at least in my corner of the world.
I made some wall mounting racks for my screwdrivers, Torx keys and Allen Wrenches last weekend. A 15° bevel on the back edge means that the drivers, etc., are easy to pull out and replace and means that they are all to hand above the bench. I don't know why it's taken me so long to do it, it's a real improvement to the workspace. I've been thinking about either making or buying some boxes to replace the flimsy plastic ones that sit on the shelving unit in the workshop and your design, and it's simplicity, are leading me towards the make option.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 They take a little more time to machine, but. You can drop a sheet into the CNC, let it run, do something else, and the parts come out finished. Now your cutting the parts on the table saw, and flipping those parts around how many times in the CNC. Unable to do something else.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 seems unlikely. You made multiple multiple passes to fully clear between the fingers, but if the board was laying flat cutting the dogbone the bit would only be tracing the interior walls of the finger. The bit would jog maybe an extra 4mm on each interior corner. I think dogbones are usually avoided because they scream cnc furniture and there are only a few ways to strategically hide the gaps they create. But that might not be a concern in shop furniture.
Love that router mill you've got there. If I may make a suggestion? Put the big drawers at the bottom so it's easier to pull them out, and you won't risk pulling a heavy drawer full of gubbins onto your head.
Great result! I opted for a different solution to the same problem. By rotating the router 90° so that it is parallel to the x axis you can mill the ends of boards or planks that are lying flat on the bed. You just need to raise them up a bit, on some blocks. You need to tweak the g-code of course, to swap the x and z axes but there's a couple of ways to do that. Easiest is with a couple of changes to the post processor that converts the toolpath to g-code. This approach means you can cut the end of long boards as you are no longer limited by the distance to the floor.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I'd thought about doing something similar (though never got around to it!) and for me the answer to your question would be things like tenons on the side panels of bookcases. Round-cornered tenons to fit into routed mortices in other panels.
the only thing i think is worth adding is a coat of paint for the drawers themselves! different colors for the sizes or uses would help finding things at a glance, or you could just paint labels on it too.
My husband is going to enjoy watching you Tim he looks for ideas from you he loves anything like this.Your a genius at what you do .Hope Sandra is doing well we’ve had nothing but rain ☔️ just needs to have some sunshine now till next time.🌈🌈🌈🌈💟💟💟💟🍀🍀🍀🍀🐥🐥🐥🐥🌈🌈🌈
Even more messy & saw dust contaminated than my set up which puts you gold medal level for doing but not cleaning. Would have been easier to make dog bone joints as mentioned in another comment or a simple manual router table, although I find osb board tends to edge splinter on manual router tables with out backing boards, but you got what you wanted. I have used pallet wood, but it needs extra steps to dimension although lower cost, but each to their own. Thanks for sharing!
Having moved my CNC, I've been thinking of doing nearly that. The permanent vise is a great idea! Looking at your video, I had an idea: put a strip of wood below, which is perpendicular to the top, so you just need to put the boards in--and slide them against the edgeboard, and you know that they are square. Perhaps you could make a gauge for the height, too. Thanks!
I just slide the planks up against one of the timbers underneath and they're set square and upright. The only thing to adjust is the height and I use a block on the top for that. Good luck with yours!
There is a very easy fixture one can make with modifications to a miter fixture on a table saw. You'd need a dado cutter/ which i think are banned in EU. You will be pleased with the results once you return from the surgery.
It may be a good idea to put the double height ones lower down in future for the sake of a lower centre of gravity in case it somehow detaches from the wall
I learned a lot of new words. Most of which I’ll have forgotten tomorrow….. But you mention that MDF would have been very dusty, but this particle board seems extremely dusty as well! And that machine is supposed to vacuum it all up but it doesn’t look like it does that?
The simple nailed bottoms into the edges don't look like they're going to stay tight for long: you're really depending on the glue to keep the bottoms on. Fine for light duty stuff but those double height drawers or anything heavy, I think you're going to see quite a few failures of the drawer bottoms. Lots of drawers use a slot in the sides and the bottom goes into that, but maybe you didn't want to do that much work for a utility drawer.
Of course the most important thing is how they're supported - side support or base support. There's no weight on the sides of these because the whole base sits of a floor..
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 And I suppose you won't carry it anywhere by the sides as you haven't' put hand holes there. Good points. I would tend to pull each drawer out and move it where I needed it and then use it like a milk crate and carry-all box and then it's worry about the bottom: so long as you're not doing that or supporting the bottom as you go, it should be good to go. Thanks!
I tried cutting finger joints on a CNC router once, but I ended up with a box full of fingers! Maybe I'll leave it to the experts at Xtreme Plasma instead 🤖🔪
I'm most surprised you don't call that stuff OSB, I thought everyone did. Sanded and (heavily) varnished I think it looks good although I know I'm in the minority there. I built the kids a huge play table out of a sheet of it a few years ago.
This the the exact problem I’m having when trying to machine these "finger joints/box joints" to make a box, but I’m not going to be able to modify my machine table like this! Basically I have to be able to take the radius out & want to do this without having to sand/file them down forever!! Any other suggestions for anyone??
I had a moment of dimwhittedness, I was thinking of them laying flat in the same plane. I wonder what the joint would look like if you rounded both and left the rounded nubs sticking out. Maybe sand those off? Then you’d have gaps in the corner, and the joint wouldn’t be as strong. Your way is brilliant!
I like shelves that fit plastic bins for a lot of my odd parts and items. That's helped me to organize a lot better than I used to. The key is very detailed and large print labeling of what's in each bin, or else I'm very likely to forget what I have. I've been meaning to also make a digital list of all the stuff I have so I can quickly search through it before deciding I need to buy something.
Thank you again Ben for sharing this channel years ago in one of you community posts. I think it was at the beginning of the railway project. I've watched every video since then, yours too of course. It's really nice to see your comments pop up here.
Thank you kindly for sharing.
I'm holding out for a pack of elves - to help find all the things I know I have somewhere but just can't find.. : - )
Great to see you here.
Tim, you have the most marvelously simple solutions to some really quite annoying challenges. I so eagerly look forward to your video uploads 😊
I'm studying to be an engineer right now and I hope one day I can solve problems like you do!
Thank you for your kind words, Mihir - I think you could already teach me a lot of things!
Over this side of the pond, that material is called OSB -- "Oriented Strand Board". It is also available cheaply here and is often used for sheathing on both walls and roofs over here.
Yep it's called OSB here in the UK too. I think we're being treated to a local Irish name!
The way you created three sizes of drawer out of one cut file or part pleases me to no end. It ensures that you can just build racks and drawers that fit anywhere until you run out of room to mount them and things to fill them with. The only thing better would be a drawer box that just used one size piece to create the square drawer by butting and lapping itself in a square circle so to speak. Excellent video!
over to you with that one Jake!
You never cease to amaze me with your ingenuity and can do attitude.
The solution in the plywood furniture industry is to just add a little semicircular cut inside the corner so that the other board can make a square fit. This has the disadvantage of making a slight gap in the corners though. In furniture its all covered up however. I really like your solution here, Ill have to keep it in my box clever ideas Ive stolen from others!
Very nice indeed.
I will need to make similar drawer sets for my new machine shop.
A couple of ideas come to mind about the curved fit between the finger joints, where the CNC machine can do all the work, on the stock, as it lies flat.
Being lazy, I like to let the machines do all the work ;) .
Lovely stuff.
Anyone else wishing they could vacuum all that sawdust up?
Yup, always worry when I see him grinding or welding with the straw/sawdust/cobwebs around that would soon catch light from a random spark.
Top job. that man! I think this counts as thinking both inside and outside of the box at the same time.
I love it. That is an absolutely great way of organizing your workshop.
I too keep most of my tools in drawers (about 70). You can pack them full, yet your stuff stays organised and accessible.
I've been brainstorming how to do this kind of thing with insulation foam board.
Your technique looks like it solves my problem.
Ive been thinking for a while about making a mini cnc router just for doing fancy joinery. Glad to see someone test this concept for me, this shows me it'd be feasible!
Your videos are always so interesting.
Ooo you made me laugh when you said "some half height" then cut straight to the table saw shot :) Brilliant idea Tim! Thanks for sharing
Love the finger joint solution, interchangeable, nice! 👍💪✌
Another first class presentation. How I wish I had room for a cms table.😁
Those drawers look amazing and are a great way to keep everything organised and easy to find
Thank you Tim for the presentation - very informative and entertaining. Keep up the good work.
Not having the wonderful tools that you have, nor the space, and definitely not the skills, my solution looks very much like yours, but I had to cobble it together with IKEA components. A lot more expensive and difficult to customize to fit particular spaces.
I have no idea what other people are seeing, but it's great that the ads being attached to your videos are getting more appropriate lately. Today, it was Lee Valley Tools, a Canadian company that specializes in hardware, fine woodworking tools and everything that would make it a candy shop. Maybe the algorithms are getting smarter, at least in my corner of the world.
Love it! Thinking outside the box.
Tim keeping things simple
Wonderful. Iv made lots of stuff with OSB a coffee table and a small chair for my daughter
Lovely stuff Tim! Such a handy table to own
I made some wall mounting racks for my screwdrivers, Torx keys and Allen Wrenches last weekend. A 15° bevel on the back edge means that the drivers, etc., are easy to pull out and replace and means that they are all to hand above the bench. I don't know why it's taken me so long to do it, it's a real improvement to the workspace.
I've been thinking about either making or buying some boxes to replace the flimsy plastic ones that sit on the shelving unit in the workshop and your design, and it's simplicity, are leading me towards the make option.
Like what you have done there bro and looks good too. Safe travels. Ken.
Nice one Tim.
I built a shelf to hold fishing tackle boxes to hold my electronic components. Works well.
To late to mention now, but. There is a "dog bone" joint option of machining on the CNC, to work around not having square corners for finger jointing.
Yes, but they are much slower to cut aren't they?
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 They take a little more time to machine, but. You can drop a sheet into the CNC, let it run, do something else, and the parts come out finished. Now your cutting the parts on the table saw, and flipping those parts around how many times in the CNC. Unable to do something else.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 seems unlikely. You made multiple multiple passes to fully clear between the fingers, but if the board was laying flat cutting the dogbone the bit would only be tracing the interior walls of the finger. The bit would jog maybe an extra 4mm on each interior corner. I think dogbones are usually avoided because they scream cnc furniture and there are only a few ways to strategically hide the gaps they create. But that might not be a concern in shop furniture.
I would still need to take multiple passes whether it was flat or upright - because I have a small router.
I'll race you! I bet I could cut four in the time it takes you to cut one..
Love that router mill you've got there.
If I may make a suggestion?
Put the big drawers at the bottom so it's easier to pull them out, and you won't risk pulling a heavy drawer full of gubbins onto your head.
I tried that way round, but I couldn't see into any of them then - this way I can see into the bottom four : - )
@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 Makes sense!
It's still a cracking little project all the same.
...ah - I first thought that you would have cut your finger joint withyour fav machine... such a relief that you haven't ; )
very cool !!! I ever wonder if I could cut fingers joints on the edge of a CNC !! definitely I will use your R&D. thanks
Great result! I opted for a different solution to the same problem. By rotating the router 90° so that it is parallel to the x axis you can mill the ends of boards or planks that are lying flat on the bed. You just need to raise them up a bit, on some blocks. You need to tweak the g-code of course, to swap the x and z axes but there's a couple of ways to do that. Easiest is with a couple of changes to the post processor that converts the toolpath to g-code. This approach means you can cut the end of long boards as you are no longer limited by the distance to the floor.
That sounds very interesting, Andy. What do you need that extra length for?
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I'd thought about doing something similar (though never got around to it!) and for me the answer to your question would be things like tenons on the side panels of bookcases. Round-cornered tenons to fit into routed mortices in other panels.
Super neat job! 😀👍
the only thing i think is worth adding is a coat of paint for the drawers themselves! different colors for the sizes or uses would help finding things at a glance, or you could just paint labels on it too.
My husband is going to enjoy watching you Tim he looks for ideas from you he loves anything like this.Your a genius at what you do .Hope Sandra is doing well we’ve had nothing but rain ☔️ just needs to have some sunshine now till next time.🌈🌈🌈🌈💟💟💟💟🍀🍀🍀🍀🐥🐥🐥🐥🌈🌈🌈
You could draw pictures of the contents to stick on the drawer fronts.
Brilliant video
nice one!
Nice Tim very nice
Nice work
Love this, top draw!!!!
Thanks Tim 😊
Even more messy & saw dust contaminated than my set up which puts you gold medal level for doing but not cleaning. Would have been easier to make dog bone joints as mentioned in another comment or a simple manual router table, although I find osb board tends to edge splinter on manual router tables with out backing boards, but you got what you wanted. I have used pallet wood, but it needs extra steps to dimension although lower cost, but each to their own. Thanks for sharing!
Having moved my CNC, I've been thinking of doing nearly that. The permanent vise is a great idea!
Looking at your video, I had an idea: put a strip of wood below, which is perpendicular to the top, so you just need to put the boards in--and slide them against the edgeboard, and you know that they are square. Perhaps you could make a gauge for the height, too.
Thanks!
I just slide the planks up against one of the timbers underneath and they're set square and upright. The only thing to adjust is the height and I use a block on the top for that. Good luck with yours!
Great video!!
Super cool ❤
Ingenious. 😀
Wonderful!
Genuis! 👍 😊
You should sell these as a flat pack, I would buy 3 of them.
Yes I'd buy some too
Probably better to sell the plans and have them made locally unless shipping is avoided by already being in Ireland.
Nice thanks
I find your adaptions inspiring. Now make your own glue?
outstanding
If you didn't mention Matthias Wandel then I would have. It is still useful to see other options.
There is a very easy fixture one can make with modifications to a miter fixture on a table saw. You'd need a dado cutter/ which i think are banned in EU.
You will be pleased with the results once you return from the surgery.
I think you're right - no idea why we're not allowed dado blades here though
It may be a good idea to put the double height ones lower down in future for the sake of a lower centre of gravity in case it somehow detaches from the wall
Hang all Ur tools up on the wall Tim french cleats 😉 class project we will all want to see 🤤
I didn't know that Sterling board had a shiny new name.
I learned a lot of new words. Most of which I’ll have forgotten tomorrow…..
But you mention that MDF would have been very dusty, but this particle board seems extremely dusty as well! And that machine is supposed to vacuum it all up but it doesn’t look like it does that?
You're right - it could do a better job if I change the position, but I'm way too busy to do that : - )
The simple nailed bottoms into the edges don't look like they're going to stay tight for long: you're really depending on the glue to keep the bottoms on. Fine for light duty stuff but those double height drawers or anything heavy, I think you're going to see quite a few failures of the drawer bottoms. Lots of drawers use a slot in the sides and the bottom goes into that, but maybe you didn't want to do that much work for a utility drawer.
Of course the most important thing is how they're supported - side support or base support. There's no weight on the sides of these because the whole base sits of a floor..
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 And I suppose you won't carry it anywhere by the sides as you haven't' put hand holes there. Good points. I would tend to pull each drawer out and move it where I needed it and then use it like a milk crate and carry-all box and then it's worry about the bottom: so long as you're not doing that or supporting the bottom as you go, it should be good to go. Thanks!
How do you join finger cuts?
You could sell those as a kit of parts!
Nice solution, would love to see some with nice wood, maybe for you wife in the kitchen?
I tried cutting finger joints on a CNC router once, but I ended up with a box full of fingers! Maybe I'll leave it to the experts at Xtreme Plasma instead 🤖🔪
I'm most surprised you don't call that stuff OSB, I thought everyone did. Sanded and (heavily) varnished I think it looks good although I know I'm in the minority there. I built the kids a huge play table out of a sheet of it a few years ago.
Oh jes, that´s what I had to do by hand in engineering school. Was a real pain in the butt.
❤💥
This the the exact problem I’m having when trying to machine these "finger joints/box joints" to make a box, but I’m not going to be able to modify my machine table like this! Basically I have to be able to take the radius out & want to do this without having to sand/file them down forever!! Any other suggestions for anyone??
Amazing example of "engineery thinking."
If you added epoxy the algo would have rewarded you. Epoxy is still hot.
You know your 1 hot wax dipper away from building and selling beehives.
Too wet for bees here these days : - (
Why not make both pieces rounded, then they’ll fit together
I can see how you could easily round one - but not the correct face of the other - can you send photos?
I had a moment of dimwhittedness, I was thinking of them laying flat in the same plane. I wonder what the joint would look like if you rounded both and left the rounded nubs sticking out. Maybe sand those off? Then you’d have gaps in the corner, and the joint wouldn’t be as strong.
Your way is brilliant!
use a table saw
Couldn't he have just used a dado blade on the table saw?
All over the world they are called "Dovetail Joints" So why do you call them "Finger Joints" (or knuckles lol)
Dovetail joints are quite different - look them up?
more than one way to skin a cat as they say. Interesting what of doing it.
How do you cut finger joints? Hopefully not your own. Haha. Sorry