Does your Engine NEED Lucas Oil Stabilizer? A detailed look at the "Benefits."
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Have a controversial topic in this video, do you need Lucas Oil Stabilizer and does it work? A lot of videos show engines before or after, or run engines with oil drained out of them, this video discusses the claims of key benefits in detail. Do the claims hold up, lets find out. @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel!
Want to buy some Lucas after watching this video, click the Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/3Juh0ZJ - Авто та транспорт
Going to buy Lucas Oil Stabilizer after this video to try it yourself, click the Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/3Juh0ZJ and thanks for watching.
Hey Josh, would you be willing to cover the following topics in a video?
-Navagating Cat SIS
-Cat falsh file encrypter, decryptor and what its uses are
Well, guess I’ma going to drain my oil/Lucas mix in my IDI 7.3. Didn’t see any benefits and one fella at a diesel shop said he has seen engines that used Lucas have a weird internal slime that was near impossible to get out.
@@Mikael5732 ive been testing that slime topic since like 1992, for some reason it just keeps coming back..... but my motor on that car has over a million miles..... mercedes diesel no matter what that motor wont die. dont get rid of the slime
@@Mikael5732 see
Good
Sir. Between the age of 7 and 10, I put 1.3 million rotations on the Lucas gear display at my pops fav auto parts store. I can assure you this stuff works…
Holy shit I forgot about that thing...thanks for relinquishing a buried childhood memory that took place at my local Napa’s.
They still have one at my local napa. I give it a few spins now and then 😄
🤣👍
I have one in my shop
Lucas, I am your father
I spent 47 years in the trucking industry and aside from driving company trucks I owned 5 of my own...1 Cummins and 4 Cats that totally accumulated 2.5 million miles. All had oil and filter changes every 10,000 miles or 250 hrs and all were on Chevron 15-40. In that time none of them required o/hauls or bearing changes. In other words no additives or snake oils...just good quality oil and filter changes on a regular basis.The cheapest investment in my equipment was lubes and filters.
I can't agree more. I've rebuilt lots of engines with over a million miles that ran just normal oil and many of them have bearings that barely had a scratch on them.
2.5 M miles divided by 5 trucks equals 500,000 miles per truck. Since the early '80s, that mileage is nothing to brag about, as, for example, my brother's 2 trucks powered by Cummins N14s achieved 3M miles before inframe.
@@cwj9202
Thank you for showing the math. If he would have used Lucas from the time they were at 300,000 miles, then he probably could have gotten a million miles out of them.
People don't realize how oil works. The more worn an engine is, the thicker the oil needs to be to fill the gaps.
Only additives I go for are Zinc and/or Moly in flat-tappet gassers, and certain flush agents when having some issues, particularly BG109. Otherwise, just run good oil, good filters, on good intervals.
That aside, every HEUI system I've seen personally with Lucas has had.... issues... that an oil change without the Lucas solved.
@@cwj9202 What really sticks out is that was only 10-12,000 miles a year on a truck, really hard to make money with that low of miles on a truck.
I am a firm believer in Lucas. I have an 01 navigator that I bought with around 126000 on it. It was poorly maintained and had a slight knock coming from the timing cover my guess on this was a sticking timing chain tensioner got it home and changed the oil and used one quart of Lucas in place of one quart of oil the knock went away after about 50 miles or less I just drove it around town a couple of days and before the knock went away which really surprised me. I change my oil every 5000 miles and use a quart of Lucas on every oil change I now have 225000 miles on eng and sounds good as new and runs like a champ.
Anecdotal evidence is the lowest form of evidence. If a 10-dollar bottle of additive could improve engine life and increase performance etc, then every manufacturer would recommend it. That would mean less recall and warranty work on their end.
When developing an engine, they run prototypes for thousands of miles through a myriad of conditions; all while testing oil samples throughout the range. In the end, they typically conclude that x oil is best. Also, you can reference the API label on each container of oil and it will tell you what specifications it meets. In a nutshell, oil additives are pointless. Do your scheduled maintenance as per the manufacturer and your engine will live a long happy life.
It’s miles not kms, 252000 miles is a lot
@@TheWalterHWhitethey engineer the vehicles to break down after warranty expires through planned obsolescence so your argument is obsolete
@@wazup3333 so you lead an engineering team at an auto manufacturer? Vehicles are judged on reliability, and it behooves companies to produce the most reliable vehicle.
Interesting; I had some Lucas I was planning to use with my 01 Xterra, but I just cleaned and rebuilt the engine after a head gasket and timing chain swap, and I did the tensioners too but it still have a slight chain rattle for the half second before the pump pressurizes the tensioners on cold startup.
I am using STP full synthetic 5W-30 for the break-in oil (I got ~4Qts for free thanks to finding a sealed 5Qt container with a damaged handle). It would have all leaked out if I didn't stop for it, so at least now it serves a good purpose before getting properly recycled. Otherwise, it's been running fine for the last 15 miles.
About to drain the oil and drop the filter to check for forbidden glitter, then it's fresh Mobil 1 and a fresh Mobil 1 filter, and since it's cold rn I'm going to rely solely on the additive package of the Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 full synthetic and see if that improves things on cold startups.
I used Lucas for 12 years in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I started using it the oil change after the warranty ended. This was an eye opener for me. At the end of the cars life it had 550000 miles on it. I never had a problem with the motor. (The transmission mounts rotted out) Lucas is a great product. The main thing it does is holds the oil on reciprocating parts. You aren’t using only Lucas. I was using it at about 25% Lucas 75% oil. It doesn’t thicken the oil to 60 weight. I used 5W30 and it was probably 7W30 when added. It definitely works tho.
I'm running a 2013 hyundai accent and honestly found after multiple runs of the car between oil changes and multiple samples taken of the oil, that thickening the oil has very little effect, running a 10W40 (auto shops recommendation) with oil additive I was running a steady 6.7L of fuel consumption per 100km on the highway, dropped it down to a 5W30 to test another oil product and was running 6.2L per 100km on the highway, then after fitting my oil intercooler, catch can, cold air intake and LED headlights, plus getting the transmission serviced, I've ran the manufacturer recommended 5w20 SAE oil with no additives and fuel consumption dropped way down to 5.4 average litres per 100kms.
Point being it doesn't matter what additives you run you're always going to suffer on fuel economy, and unless it's a PTFE or LDDP additive it's not worth the added fuel costs.
That said I have occasionally ran lucas upper cylinder lubricant, 1 quart will last me about 20 fuel tanks worth and you can definitely feel the effect it has on the throttle response.
@@alexanderwoolley1623to be fair those 1.6 gamma engines love thicker oil, I run 15w-50 in the summer in my '16 with 231k and it purrs along happily.
I got over 650,000 miles out of a 2000 Freightliner with a 3126. I never did an inframe, never blew the motor. No smoke, no blow by. I used Lucas, changed the oil every 8000 miles. The motor outlasted the truck itself. I sold the truck a year agao, and the motor was swapped into another truck that's still in daily use.
That's an impressive amount out of a 3126.
@@AdeptApe You always say that whenever I post about it. The Motor was unkillable. One extremely cold February morning I dropped a valve. I had a load on the truck that was going to Rhode Island to a Merchant Marine ship. It was their supplies.I had to be there by 8 am. I had no choice to try to make it. I drove almost 200 miles and made the delivery. I had the truck towed back to Brandford Freightliner in Connecticut and they repaired it. My buddy Adam, who owned a trucking company told me if that chain of events didn't kill the motor nothing will. He was right.
The THOMAS , DID YOU USE 20% LUCAS IN THE 3126, OR JUST COUPLE QUARTS ? JUST WONDERING........I HAVE 2014 CUMMINS 6.7 W/ 598,000 PULLING RVS AND DOING GREAT ON 20% LUCAS AND 15W 40. It is my third Dodge Ram , and second one w nearly over 600,000 miles
@@ronmoore3987 I had the 32-quart sump and used 1 gallon per oil change. Sometimes I would add Lucas if I was down a quart. I didn't burn much oil inbetween services which became shorter and shorter intervals as the miles added up. When it was new I would go 15 thousand miles in between oil changes, then 10,000, then 7,500 miles or every 4 months which ever came first. The engine still lives on in a dump/plow truck.
I now have a 2018 M2106 with the Cummins 6.7B and that has 365,000 miles on it. I'm not using Lucas. I have been using Triax oil in it since it was new and I find that oil to be the best I have ever used.
I use Lucas and it improved the idle, prolonged oil life, the oil temp was better and the oil pressure was better. Good stuff!
Did you determine these facts with a scanner and actual read out of these items that you're mentioning or did you do it by the convenience cages that are not completely accurate on your dashboard.. Not criticizing just asking
Bs
I've been a fleet tech for over 40 years. All our oils are sent for analysis. We have been using power up additive since the mid 90's. The results are impressive, wear metals all went down, thus we've increased the change intervals and prolonged rebuilds.
It may work for you. Good thing is you do oil analysis. Another operator may work in cold climates like Alaska or Canada. Their oil requirements may be different to yours. Cheers
This video is totally worthless, he has no clue about oils , wear , what breaks down .
This seems like a low keys jab at a product for whatever reason.
I’m also a fleet tech and oil samples tell all and theses additives for sure help .
Any friction decreaser that doesnt become corrosive 👍 ptfe,teflon is what many are..
@@nopenonein I'm not a fan of Lucas products but this product's purpose isn't to thicken oil like he claims. These oil additives do so many other things he doesn't touch on. False equivilancy ALERT!! Thicker oil isn't stickier. Those are two different qualities. Especially in cold climates you want sticky oil that will cling to your cam lobes, other valve train parts and especially cylinder walls.
@MrFatcat23 He didn't say it was sticky just because it's thicker; as he pointed out, Lucas has additives in it to increase the tackiness, or stickiness. So it is in fact stickier, because it is in fact stickier. In this video, the property of stickiness has no reference to the viscosity being thicker, he refers to it as an independent property. Furthermore; as he pointed out, regular engine oil clings to the bearings just fine, even in a heated shop, it will cling even better in colder temps due to the natural viscosity increase, you don't need anything other than regular oil to prevent dry start-up, and as shown in this video, isn't really a thing, even after sitting for a couple weeks, in a heated shop. Anybody who has ever pulled a bearing cap knows there is a suction there, due to the close tolerance and the oil, which in turn retains the oil, even on engines that have been sitting for years, there will still be suction on any bearing cap within normal wear limits, even the thinnest oil WIll NOT, EVER, drain out of the bearings, unless they are already wasted. Do not run thicker oil in the winter, especially not in the winter. In Montana, it is necessary to switch to a thinner oil in diesels, typically from a 15w-40 to a 5w-40 if you want it to start easily and reliably on really cold days which can get well below zero degrees F.
44 years in trucking, never had a new truck it's always been used. I have used Lucas for many, many years. In engine's, Trans, and rear ends. Never had any problems. I do change engine oil every 10,000, and air filters every 4 months, Trans and rear ends every year. One thing you missed and failed to bring to light was dirty air makes dirty oil and increases engine ware and performance. At the present I have a c-16 I still practice 10,000 air filters at 4 months. You think about it 1 gallon of Lucas to 9 gallons of oil 10w40. You also failed to recommend not operating that engine till it got to proper operating temperature. I'm sure you are a very good mechanic I have watched your videos and will continue. Don't ever stop thinking out of the box, don't get what I call working with blinders on. 👍😉🇺🇲
Bottom line is if you use Lucas oil stabilizers you're probably maintaining your vehicles well. I do believe in their products
they make great stuff but id not use in on newer cars after 2010 iv seen it make oil to think cause rod knock but on older engine run it in every thing
I'm currently running it in my 17 ram just to try and keep the engine together for as long as I can at this point it developed piston slap about 30000 ago hence why I'm running Lucas because I can't justify the cost of replacing the motor that costs more then the truck is worth
Or you trying to save a vehicle that you haven't maintained properly and the engine sounds like crap lol
@@AKoehnFishing-xf4wj I bought it with 7000k I have done full synthetic every 5000k with OEM filters started to notice a problem at 110000 found out it needs a motor at 112000
@@possessedjake13 how is it goin?
Lucas has helped several of my vehicles go well beyond 200k miles....they do nor burn oil and compression is still in spec. I highly recommend it
Been using Lucas oil treatment for over 25 years in everything I own cars trucks lawnmowers anything that uses oil in it and have Never had engine failure in anything period I'm a mechanic by trade over 40 years in field
I knew an oil salesman that would say, “If you have to add something to your oil, that basically means your oil wasn’t good enough in the 1st place”
oil SALESMAN. his best oil is gonna always be the top of the line must have !!!
We should also consider the fact that with high mileage the engine is not going to have the same tolerances so the engine is not going to be good as it was new.
As a heavy equipment mechanic, I'd tell my customers "If my cock was a piston in your engine, you would easily haul more ore every month". 🤣
A damn salesman ain't no Roadrunner like myself .Ya see there are thee office types and then there are the milemakers like me. I live a hard life and I use the shit.My truck don't sit in no damn garage every nite either
@@clittle1559 coughing!!! amsoil!!! Coughing!!!!
I probably wouldn’t use this in a newer car but it does work pretty well on worn out engines. I had a car that started burning a quart of oil every 400 miles around 225,000 miles. I started using a similar product and started burning a quart about every 2,000 miles. When the car finally quit for electrical issues that weren’t worth fixing the engine was still running strong at over 275,000. This stuff is great for keeping an engine that’s on its last leg going when it’s not worth putting more money into the car.
I will drive until tires fall off
They have a synthetic for newer low Viscosity engines, I run a 1.5 quarts in my 5.7l Tundra (it's 9ish quarts withe filter). The nest thing about it is that it sticks to all the import surfaces, 95% of all wear in a a motor is cold dry starts and this stops it.
@@TdrSld my tahoe had 350k an had a small tick when started added lucas and never had another problem sold it with 400k ran mint
You shouldn't use Lucas Heavy Duty on a car anyway. That's what Lucas Synthetic is for.
@@ravenshrike synthetic is for synthetic oil. Heavy duty is for reg oil. I live in fl and it gets so hot here the oil breaks down so much faster. Lucas heavy duty oil helps keep everything coated nice. My uncle had a 2000 Grand Marquis he always went to the service intervals for fluid changes well it says 100,000 Mi for the transmission fluid not here in Florida should change it around $30,000 miles or whenever the oil starts to change color
I run belly dump and side dumps for construction in very harsh environments and I've been using Lucas for about 15 years, I bought my 98 Pete in 2011 with no history on the engine (3406E) still runs like a top 76psi (oil pressure oil pressure without Lucas was 74psi), doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. The one thing I really noticed is it did drop the oil temperature 20 degrees from 235/240 degrees down to 215 degrees, heat is what kills oil. What sold me on it was my friend races monster trucks with blown and alcohol injected engines and his bearings were shot after 4 to 6 races after using Lucas he could run a full season on one engine. (Alcohol washes the bearings and cylinders out) just my experience with it.
Oil pressure is resistance to flow. You can't increase resistance without increasing temperature.
@@prosourceoil6380 you're definitely right
@@turbojetpowered8299 thicker does not reduce friction, only increases friction. Proof being, oil viscosity specifications of today and going into the future are lower than the specs of the past. These viscosity changes are for fuel mileage increases. Lower viscosity = increased fuel mileage. Lucas additive increases viscosity.
Older vehicles being stored, Lucas does not help with either. Use a oil with high amounts of rust inhibitor additives and fogging oil.
Everything on the bottle of Lucas is a lie.
Well hey I'm an rv hauler 12 yrs 3 Dodges/ Rams 2 million miles and I use 20 % every oil change 4,ooo - 7,8oo miles and no troubles with engine The shit is great , and that's why it sells. If it wasn't any good it never would've lasted decades at Wally World and O'Reilley's .Them guys that say all yer doing is THICKENIN UP YER OIL, THAT'S NONSENSE IT HAS STAYING POWER AND IT MIXES PERFECTLY W/ OIL TO COAT EVERYTHING IN AN ENGINE.
@@prosourceoil6380 that's not entirely true. you can't while using the same oil. Thicker oil takes longer to heat up, but pressure can still increase.
I use this product in diesel boat engines.I have to say it does exactly what it states on the bottle. Boat is left up for long periods and top end retains a film of oil.
It's not the size of your boat, it's the motion of the ocean. 🤣
I put Lucas oil oil stabilizer in my racecar, mind you it's a 50 laps race, 5 laps in the car was way over heated. The gauge was maxed. I ran the rest of the 50 laps, yes car was very hot by the end of the race. All the car did was burn a quart of oil. I started the car the next day and has no knocks, no pinging, nothing. I am positive if I didn't have the Lucas in the oil, that motor would be cooked. I love this product and I sware by it.
Ever taken a motor apart after using Lucas? I have, and the stuff sticks to every metal surface in the motor..thereby reducing if not eliminating dry starts (starting an engine is the most damaging time for a motor)...Lucas definitely provided near total protection as far as lubrication..my system is 5.5 quarts, so I use an entire "quart" bottle. I have also used it for assembly...freaking awesome!!(I soak the bearings for 24 hours pre assembly).. it also blends with the oil you use, and thins the Lucas out...which in turns makes the Lucas flow easily.
or just get thicker oil.. when oil gets Hot it just runs down to the pan we put some in a 4cyl engine running a generator and ran it dropped the pan there was no difference in the way the oil was "sticking"
@@Mr_Meowingtons I call bs...I pulled apart a motor as far to using Lucas..I to was literally sticking like a thin glue...so go back and club up so you know what you're talking about
@@Mr_Meowingtons yea buddy get out of here and let the engine builders talk
@@thomaspower8197 You sound like the type of person that daily carries a 1911.
@@nocturnal0072 he probably lubes his 1911 with Lucas
On inframes and rebuilds I have always used Lucas as assembly lube, it's always worked great for me!
It's very good for that. The gooeyness helps the oil pump suck up oil quickly.
There are far better assembly lubes they have quality additive packages though. When you learn how cheap Lucas actually is you'd think differently of their product, the marketing sells Lucas, especially the deceptive little gear display to captivate the oil ignorant consumer base
@@100pyatt Yes there are much better assembly lubes.
Project farms has tested many of the snake oil products and Lucas did not match up to regular oil. I suggest to anyone considering adding such products to your oil to watch his videos. He also tested different oils and there is a difference in oil quality. Thanks Josh.
In pretty much all of his tests lucas outperformed regular oil so I’m not sure where you got the information that it didn’t match up
@@charlienorton2337 sorry I didn't mean Lucas in particular but in snake oils as a whole. The 1 major claim they all make is better fuel efficiency. But motorkoat was the 1 that seemed to perform the best especially on the bearing wear test. And I am specifically talking about what they CLAIM their product will do.
@@charlienorton2337 I can attest that Lucas oil stabilizer works. It does reduce sludge. I had a prius that I always just put regular oil in, it was always black after 3500 miles. Added Lucas oil and after the 6 or 7 oil change I noticed that 3500 miles the oil still looked good (not as dark) and each time after that I went up 500 miles. Now I change at 5000 miles and that oil looked like my 3500 Mile oil back in the day. So yes. It definitely works
@@kyle-li8sn oil should get black or it is not cleaning your engine, so Lucas is bad for your engine, like everyone knows.
@@V8Lenny sorry but you are missing informed! Oil turning black is from the blowby in rings and valves.... not to clean your motor but to lubrication is the reason for oil.... better go back to school if your a mechanic.
20:22 I will take a bit of issue with you here. On a badly worn engine the thicker velocity will reduce friction in the bearings, thereby reducing heat. I have seen highly significant differences in engine temps on older engines, especially with a heavier viscosity oil or STP.
I've got 300,000 on my ford explorer and I use this with every oil change, I figure the more lubed the parts the less wear, I could be wrong, all I can say is I got the 300,000 and still going, so not sure if it's the help of the Lucas or not, I will say my oil pump needs to be changed, but at 300,000 I e done pretty good not to have to change it till now, so either way I count my blessings and keep driving praise God
Since oil breaks down it makes sense that adding a thickener to worn oil should restore viscosity.
I do use Lucas but try not to dump a cold blob down where it could clog the oil feed.
I try to do it on a warm day and add a little then some oil then some more.
I'd be concerned using it in freezing temperatures but it's hot here.
I also only use a little in my BMW which likes thin oil for the vanos.
I usually only add about half what they recommend.
It's thick and has to have more drag. Like running in molasses.
An ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure.
If you have low oil pressure and the light is on at idle I thought it needs pressure or oil won't make it downstream. Like a finger over a hose.
You do make a great point that more pressure doesn't mean it's making it either. It could be blocked.
Cooling can come from reducing blow by.
Combustion pressure can carry heat past rings and seals. Sealing those gaps keeps heat moving.
It's good to remember that this goo is diluted at least four to one in oil and heated over a hundred degrees. It's going to be thinned out.
It would be interesting to dilute one ounce Lucas in four ounces of oil and see how thick it is. Then freeze it and heat it and compare to pure oil.
My 23 year old Mercedes SLK230 Kompressor with high miles is absolutely perfect for Lucas. It loves it! Never missed a beat. When I bought car, before it had Lucas in it, it was quite a loud, rough sounding engine. Added Lucas and within 50 miles it was literally purrrrrring like a cat!
These older Merc engines love thicker oil in general! I have a W140 300SE with the M104. When I bought it it had 10w30 in there. I switched to 15w50 and it runs smoother, quieter and the oil leak almost stopped completely (leaks are also common on these older Mercs 🤣)
I agree with the comments about Lucas oil additive.I have rebuilt many 3406 and C15 engines over my 48 year career working with Caterpillar engines. One benefit I noticed Lucas oil added engines versus non Lucas engines. The engine bearings, pistons,rings,and gear wear no noticeable difference.One noticeable difference was the camshaft,rocker rollers and rocker shaft wear,on engines over a million miles.The Lucas protected camshafts was totally reusable as well as rocker arms and shafts.Meeting Caterpillar reusable part guidelines for above parts.Most straight oil engines had unwanted wear and fretting on above engines parts and had to be replaced. Does this single benefit justify usage? Probably not.Also use of the camshaft and associated parts would last very well and normally finish the usable life of the trucks.But I felt better about replaced camshaft and parts,because parts were warranted because of replacement.
How much does a new cam and lifter package cost, vs a million miles worth of additive?? 🤣
Ive been using Lucas in various engines over the years. Its hit or miss. Depends on the scenario. Gotta understand youre using it on a worn engine that just oil isnt cutting it and to try and stretch your pennies as far as you can. Ive had engines where it didnt make much of a difference, but ive had a few that would run nice with it, but if i tried running without, it would knock and have blow by. Even in the winter when its thick, youre only supposed to have up to 20 percent lucas to oil. It does take an extra moment to get it going, but the film strength and tackiness makes up for it in some cases. Ive seen it go both ways. Also, if your engine has alot of sludge built up, youre going to want to address that first because even with just straight oil thats a problem. Youve hit every concern right on the head with your video. It also does work nice for assembly lube or for coating and engine thats going to sit for a while. I put away a few engines and put a nice helping of lucas in the oil and ran it for alittle bit. Had good success. So if an engine is worn out beyond just going by the recommended oil interval, or you have one of those type of engines youre running on alcohol and pushing enough power to only get several runs out of before a rebuild, you might want to give it a go. On a lower mileage engine in good shape, you’re not doing any favors
One thing a machinist pointed out years ago. In a car engine, the oil control rings are not heavy enough to wipe thicker oils off the cylinder walls.
IE : Thinner rings need lighter oils
True but Lucas makes in various ways for newer and in synthetic to which flows better for tighter tolerances whether you use them are not but I know it works great for bikes and diesel but kinda agree your adding oil to an oil just use quality to begin with
especially these newer low-tension rings nowadays. While older A-B model cats and N14's My Big Cam IV. No chance on newer machines.
@@neilh6217 I’m hesitant to agree given that a 2015 Impala using Lucas just crossed 413,000 miles as of January this year and started using Lucas around 70,000 miles.
We’ll see how it goes.
Possibly but plenty have seen reduced oil consumption going to this or heavier oil weight. If the rings were unable to hold the oil you would see increased oil consumption.
I would look at Lucas pure synthetic stabilizer, it's much thinner but still tacky so I would recommend it over their original
this is true there are 2 kinds of Luc.1 for newer eng. one for older engs. cold starts kills engs. i have used Lucus stuff for many years this g uy is full of stupid stupid ideas nuts!!!!!
Haters goona hate, i guess... Works for me! I use it on my cereals, and my bowel movement is like a swiss watch! I also mix around 10% of the stuff in my windshield washer fluid, to keep the bugs from sticking to it... Found this out when i was lubing up my buck 110 (cuts way better with Lucas) This was in the late 50's... My sister/wife also loves it! Never leaves on vacation to Africa without it! Supposedly it helps against sunburns... or something...
😂😂😂
Uh WTF 😂😂😂😂
Username checks out.
Have you tried adding it to your blinker fluid? You'll get 10,000 more blinks and it's great for muffler bearings as well, my mufflers have never been quieter . It's great for beer can chicken as well, keeps the meat nice and juicy inside and crispy on the outside when brushed on !
@@Muffmiester79 Wow!! 10.000 more you say?! Hell, if you drive a "premium" german car, you`ll never have to change blinker fluid ever again! I have to admit that i would question the longevity of the blue haywire, after that many blinks though... But then again; im no mechanic... I will not put in on my muffs, since i like my muffs loud. Speaking of loud; i actually saw some gay carpenters mix up a bottle of wallpaper glue with lucas!!! The damned wallpaper slid right of the wall, and you should see when they.......... Ooooh,....MUFFLER you said.... Sorry, my bad, wrong forum!! Will report back on the chicken later!!
I had a really worn out 3406B that I used Lucas in. It certainly raised the low idle oil pressure. It also seemed to give it more power. I figured that it must have needed oil pressure to work a hydraulic governor or the afbf.
A good film of oil on the piston rings will also help with compression, but will reduce friction and put more power to anything downstream.
What amount did you put per Oil Change?
I had to tear down to redo the head on my truck at 150,000, I use it religiously and there was no wear in the cylinder, not even enough to catch your finger nail, so yes it does work.
Great video, I use a little bit of this product now and then mix it with Rotella T4 but you’re absolutely correct there are no numbers whatsoever to backup all the claims on the label, a little bit goes a long way IMO.
My great-grandpa says he has been jacking off with Lucas since he was 10, uses a micrometer on his member and hand and swears that he only measures .001" wear. 🤣
Lucus has a rapid viscosity change due to temp, you can physically see that easily. I tested this on predator motor(lawn mower motor). I ran it with oil and the recommended amount of lucus, then drained it and just ran it as if the oil wasn’t there just the recommended lucus and it ran still!!! Very well which was crazy, it’s a very cool product to test with
Yep, it works great on worn out junk to move it own to the next guy. it's like putting a fresh coat of paint on the worn out engine for the liquid overhaul. It's definitively fun working on engine parts covered in Lucas or similar products.
Aerosol Overhaul
Dupont overhaul!! Lol
I use in my truck with Detroit 14.0 Liter engine in each oil change I add 2 gallons of Lucas and 8 of regular oil, on one occasion I did the oil change with 32 thousand miles and never under oil pressure and only consumed less than a gallon in all that time, I would say that it works very well according to my experience
60 series 515jp 06 I use a gallon of Lucas every oil change 9k
I will comment before even watching the video, but I have been using Lucas for years and would not stop. This thing works, really works. Yes it is heavy at first, but after some miles it losses thickness a little and become a super protectant to your engine. I even use it on my 3.0 marine engine and zero problems never.
I think many fail to realize many of these things lucas does is only beneficial to a really worn engine or engines with problems.lucas is great at putting a bandaid on a worn engine to allow u to drive it awhile longer. Thats where Lucas shines and it does work as ive seen it work with my own eyes over the course of my almost 25yrs as a diesel mechanic.
One of the greatest examples i love is....3.8 series one buick, broken Valve spring, clack clack, full bottle of lucas, no more clacking, my dad drove it for rest of year like that until he could get another car. The lucas provided so much "cushioning" effect on that broken spring, it stopped the clacking unless u reved it over 4 grand, then some noise would come back. Another example, lucas trans fix and power steering fix, slipping trans, hard shifts or hard spots in pwr steer rack, all gone after lucas. Should u dump thousands into an old car to put a rebuilt tranny in? Or try a 10 dollar bottle of lucas, what have you got to loose at that point, try it, you'll be surprised at the results. Rear end gear whine, half bottle of lucas, no more whine. Now all this only works if u catch it in time, if it goes too long, u often cant save it.
Also the lucas you are showing here, the oil stabalizer, can be used in trannys, BUT, they are talking about manual trans that call for 10w30 as the oil. Do not put it in auto trannies, use the tranny fix product.
If you have a properly operating vehicle, theres no need for any Lucas products, just proper maintenance!
So I use Lucas oil in my logging equipment. What I’ve found is our older machines burn oil and this helps to reduce it. When I’m not there to make sure guys are checking oil before they start it gives me peace of mind. One old log loader we have will burn 3-4 gallons of oil between changes. With the Lucas it’s down to under a gallon.
With that said I don’t run it in the machine I run daily or my pickup because I check it and do regular oil changes. My guys on the other hand. Not so much. My two cents. Not worth much but there it is.
Any oil is better than no oil!
the whole point of Lucas engine oil stabilizer is to provide a barrier between wear surfaces. the Lucas is both slippery and sticky at the same time.it will stop oil burning in old engines and increase the life span of new ones. ive been a licenced mechanic for 37 years and ive been putting Lucas in every engine i own for the last 20 years i even have it in the gear lube on my gold wing and my dodge truck it will increase gear life and will stop a sweaty seal from leaking. i should be the poster boy for Lucas. i also use the fuel treatment in my 94 cumins diesel. as far as im concerned todays oils are to thin and dont provide a proper barrier between moving parts, lucas is the answer ot this issue.
Can you put Lucas in the diff ?
I might use this in my "cow pasture truck" It has a Ford 302 that has worn bearings such that I run straight 40 wgt. in the engine to keep the oil pressure up. Adding this stuff to an engine that really needs rebuilding might raise my oil pressure more.😄
Pressure is measured as resistance to flow. If your pressure is too low, you may have internal oil pump leakage. If it is above spec, you may have blockage from crap or a spun bearing?
I agree with everything that you said in the video. I would not and will not use is stock diesel engine. With that said I do use Lucas oil stabilizer in light limited super stock pulling motor. It is a DT466 based engine making over 1400 hp and turning more than 5000 rpms. I mix it with 15-40 delvac oil and have had very good performance. Just check bearing after 200 runs and they look like new. Use to run straight 50 w and had to change bearing after 40 runs. We check oil filter for metal after every run. I always wondered why the Lucas helped and after watching your video I think it is the additivity that makes it sticky that help. We run higher clearances that stock engine would. Keep up the great videos. PS. the perkins head does not look that bad. I seen worst. Thanks
I have 1.2m miles on my Detroit 60, started to use Lucas at 600k and still going strong I also noticed reduced engine vibration after using Lucas.
As far as im concerned I would use it on a new engine because it doesn’t need it but I’d definitely recommend it for engines with over 500k. Specially when topping of oil as it will restore some of the biscotti lost by normal engine use
damn I would love some biscotti
@@gnarlytothemaxI knew someone would catch it. This made me laugh hard 😂
I think projectfarm did a video comparing this additive to some other brand of motor honey and found that in his test lucas does have a better friction coefficient and denatures slower than the control (5w30 gas car oil). I'd really like to see a more realistic or standardized test because he runs the friction test with the oil at room temperature, usually only a visual representation of wear is displayed. I use this when the tackiness/extra viscosity is desirable and its something I don't plan on rebuilding. I agree the rest of your arguments.
He tested it in running predator engines, that are air cooled, thats a damn good test
Lucas Oil increases the film strength, and makes the oil “cling” to the metal parts. But it also thickens the oil. So it’s probably not the best in cold areas. One thing I do think is fishy, is that they say you can use it in anything, but then go on to specify "Not for Powerstrokes". Which they've now actually removed.
i use in Canadian winter without a problem, its because it stays on the wear surfaces.
Like your version the best
Correct. But we don't have an analysis of this said product...
what is the level of detergents and additives they have put inside this Lucas Oil Stabilizer ?
@@dfls5069 Y'all wanna send off a sample to Black Stone?
Agreed. Probably a baaaaad idea for turbocharged engines as well.
I dont use lucas in my engine oil but I’ve had good luck with their auto trans oil and hub oil. As far as engine oil I use semi synthetic from a local manufacturer. It’s commercial use and since i can buy direct from the manufacturer it’s reasonable. Lasts long and works great. My dodge pickup has 1.1 million on it always using this oil with 10k mile intervals.
I'd like to share an anecdote (or as Josh said in the video, a testimonial). I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, I was heading down the freeway and struck a blown tire in the road. I was about 3 miles from home, so I figured that I could go home and check under my car to inspect for damage. I didn't make it home. The tire ripped out my transmission cooler lines, and about halfway home the transmission had nothing left in it. I fixed the lines, but the damage was done, poor shifting and a lot of slippage. So I used a bottle of Lucas, and the transmission was much better, but not perfect. So I continued to use the car, sourced a compatible core transmission, rebuilt it, and installed it when the transmission finally quit, which it did after about 12k miles. Just for the fun of it, I took my original transmission apart, and when it gave up the ghost, it had severely damaged hard parts, both of the planetary gear sets was missing teeth, the drums were severely scored, even the case was damaged on the inside. When it quit, it was the differential that blew, causing me to lose all forward gears, reverse, even park. No "mechanic in a bottle" was going to fix that. I was impressed. It gave me enough time to rebuild a transmission and have it ready to install for when the inevitable would come to pass.
I've never used Lucas again since, for transmission, engine, or anything else, but that one time, it was a life saver.
@@vivillager my pickup will need a trans rebuild before too long. It’s an auto and it’s the original one. Fluid changed every 100-150k, 1 qt of Lucas and the rest oem fluid. It’s finally starting to slip when shifting but like I said that’s with 1.1 million miles on a first year DODGE AUTOMATIC… I’m shocked it’s made it this far at all to be honest. These trans never last this long. I ran hot shot hauling cars so that’s 25k lbs just about every day and it’s held up that well.
Lucas makes great oil and lubricants in general, the gun oils and grease are also fantastic. I use many of their products just not the oil stabilizer. The blow by and leak claims I can personally say they did help, but the cold starts in MN were not helpful.
What a shit video. You offer zero scientific evidence and only theoretical opinions
This stuff does work. We had a Detroit 671 that was getting really tired it was burning 4-5 gallons of oil an hour, it was starting to become an issue keeping oil in it considering it only held 7 gallons of oil. Having to add oil every 10-15 minutes is not good! Taking it out of service for a day or 2 to replace the cylinder kits was not an option for the next 6 months as this equipment was in service 24hours a day 7 days a week. Adding 50 percent Lucas to the oil did reduce oil consumption by about a gallon an hour or so, and improved oil pressure from 5psi to 15psi at idle and from 10psi to 20psi at speed. The downside is this Lucas gets sheered down really quickly, you might get 10-20 hours before you sheered the stuff down to a viscosity lower then 50wt oil. Anyway I wouldn’t run it in a healthy engine but it can certainly buy you some time when you need to finish one more job. When I tore it down in the off season the bearings were not bad, the crank was perfect! Other then cylinder kits a cam and bearings the engine was in great condition. I doubt it would have made it through the season without spinning a bearing without the additional of the Lucas.
Thanks, Your writing this really keeps this stuffs usefulness in perspective.
It worked amazing for me too. One of my trucks was burning oil, about 5 qts every 2-3 weeks. I put in 1 quart of lucas stabilizer with 4 qts regular oil and a month later, it's all still there maintaining its level. One thing that will finish off a dying motor fast is that the oil is no longer there and you didn't notice it for a couple of drives and burned the engine up.
Lucas isnt cheap and that much is a fortune and better off rebuilding
Try using a straight weight base oil synthetic. These oils do not sheer like multiweight conventional oils and even some synthetic multiweights.
@@nunyabuziness8421 Sure it is but when it’s running 24/7 and shutting down the machine according to the owner will cost him $40,000 an hour a few hundred bucks or even a few thousand for some Lucas isn’t an issue. Shutting down the machine for half a day to swap the engine with a rebuilt one (which we had sitting in a crate ring next to the machine just incase it did blow up) is certainly a problem between the fines, permit deadlines, payroll, ect a shutdown can be a very expensive and intolerable situation. The engine was rebuilt when the job was finished and the new spare engine was put into storage. Some of this specialized equipment can’t be rented or even purchased off the shelf (it’s custom made) this isn’t a truck that you could just rent a replacement truck and then have the engine rebuilt! This isn’t a truck where if it’s out of service it’s not going to cost you much money an hour. This is a job with over 200 highly paid workers, federal permits, deadlines, huge fines for falling behind schedule, and an absolute stop date when the permits expire with no possibility of getting a an extension or a new permit till next fall due to some environmental BS. These are 50 million dollar jobs that if not completed will result in millions of dollars in fines. It’s a little bit different then your thinking about. Other equipment is constantly breaking so an engine that is running yet burning a lot of oil and has very low oil pressure isn’t exactly a priority unless it blows up. They didn’t bat an eye about paying an oiler $50 an hour (someone to literally stand next to this engine and add oil every few minutes) to keep it running for the duration of the job.
I am a firm believer in Lucas oil stabilizer. I've used it for years a testament to it is a 498 cubic big block chevy 15to1 aluminum roded solid roller home assembled race engine. I started it on a morning at about 18degF going to the last race for the season and broke the oil pump drive shaft with out noticing left idling for approx 5 min while I got my truck hooked up to the trailor. Got back in the car and immediately noticed no oil pressure. I opened the bottem end up to check the rod and main bearings in the spring and left them alone showed 0 wear. I'm almost certain the Valvoline 40w racing oil had little to nothing to do with no bearing failure or wear just my testament to Lucas, and it was a dry start the engine had not been started in a little over a month for sure..... However I use it sparingly on newer vehicals because of the thickness and the tighter tolerances of the newer engines.
I only put 250 ml to my car. I just hope it's enough though.
I don't use it in the engine since it's not worn and I prefer frequent service. But I do use it in the portal boxes since I use 70W140 synth gear oil. I was having issues at higher speeds where the top of the 140mm seals would wear out. I suspected the thinner synthetic wasn't climbing the wear ring all the way. Never had another seal fail after adding 20% Lucas to the 75w140
Project Farm is very good at doing fair and honest tests. Lucas seems to do very good and does seem to show benefits
Really love watching Project Farm! One thing I like about his show is he is always improving his testing protocols! The results at least shows some insight into the products and the results dispels most of the mysteries of the tested products! A demonstrations is worth more than talk!
Project farms one armed bandit oil tester is legendary snake oil seller.
@@V8Lenny No it allows you to make a informed decision based on test results! But wear is wear and wear additives that work is shows on the test!
@@MMr.NOBODYY I don't think he was calling PF a snake oil salesman, but that rig is exactly what they used to build to sell oil additives and whatnot at county fairs and trade shows.
It's a great tester, but it just tests a part of the oil, which the oil salesman would use to their advantage. A proper test (like what PF does) is use it as a part of an oil test, not the only test.
@@volvo09 I read that dude's comment 5 times and still can't figure out wtf he was trying to say. Not sure how putting a coherent sentence together is so difficult for someone able to use the internet.
Lucas is an oil thickener only. It has zero anti wear addative or detergents. It dilutes the addative in the oil which decreases it's ability to prevent wear and clean.
Excellent answer and very true statement
Sounds like we may agree 😊
Some suspect it has caused failures due to increasing aeration of oil, in some engines.
It's a very overpriced oil thickener too. If I wanted a thicker oil, I'd just buy a thicker oil.
I agree, I add a gallon in my ISX to boost oil pressure slightly and I also add some zinc to the oil because I wiped out a few camshafts in my previous ISX engine. I wouldn't run Lucas in a new or fresh engine.
As a certified master Cat engine rebuilder since 1988 I can tell you NEVER , NEVER, NEVER EVER use Lucas on the first startup on a rebuilt engine. Pre -lube the engine with standard engine oil. Also NEVER add Lucas till the fourth oil change. Lucas oil WILL NOT ALLOW the PISTION RINGS TO MATE TO THE CYLINDER LINERS. This WILL cause EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. Lucas oil BONDS/COATS to metal. Pistion rings must mate to the cylinder walls. ALSO BEWARE SOME AFTERMARKET OIL ADDITIVES THEY HAVE CHEMICALS THAT DAMAGE / DRYOUT O-RINGS AND SEALS INSIDE THE ENGINE. This includes crankshaft seals and liner o-rings.
Thanks Phil! 👍🏻
yep its a great friction modifier and can save your ass
So, is it your opinion that this does reduce friction?
@@johndunn9819 bit more than an opnion
@@thebad300 I'm going to take your word on it. My dad always used STP and had "good results". His vehicles ran and lasted a long time. Of course, there's no way of telling how long they would have lasted had he not used the additive. Kinda like Lucas'. I always give it a minute to warm up a little especially in the winter. I take it real easy 'til it reaches operating temperature because I can see how cold thick oil might not get to the appropriate places in time while it's warming up. Thanks for your insight.
I've never owned a new car so I've had great success with lucas in general. Keep in mind this product is meant for worn engines which is why so many that use it also get great results. I wouldn't use any additive in a new or fairly new engine or and engine that shows no signs of wear other than maybe a high mileage oil.
good points. Lucas oil probably works the best for differentals about the same weight as gear lube and helps the oil stick to gears similar to stp.
Makes it foam up.
Lucas oil additive is very slippery and sticky….I primarily use it on older engines that may burn oil or motor doesn’t have the greatest oil pressure.
I also use Lucas oil additives to assemble engines. (Only on bearings) works great and doesn’t run off parts if motor sits for awhile!
I’ve also use Lucas trans additive that actually works on a slightly slipping trans (doesn’t fix severe slippage nor broken parts)
Granted it’s a temporary fix but may help extend life till it can be repaired properly.
I had a crappy little 2000 Geo Metro for a winter beater. It was smoking. I had to get a drive clean test and it failed. I put in Lucas Oil Stabilizer, drove it for a couple days, went back, re-tested - PASSED! Probably saved me a lot of money in repairs or at least let me keep driving it for another year until the front axle just freakin' broke.
I bought a 1997 12V Cummins . It ran like crap when I first bought it in 2014 even after changing the oil 3 times. THE FIRST TIME I PUT LUCUS IN IT .I HAVE NOT HAD 1 PROBLEM OUT OF THAT TRUCK AND IT COMPLETELY STOCK !! THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAD IS THROTTLE ASSEMBLY FAILED AND I HAD TO REPLACE IT ! I ALMOST HAVE 450,000 MILES ON IT ! IT STILL RUNS GREAT , AND FUEL MILEAGE IS WAY BETTER THEN MY 6.7 BECAUSE OF LUCUS FUEL ADDITIVE!! I LOVE LUCUS !!!
For someone who’s got an old truck (gas or diesel) and just wants to bandaid it long enough to get to the repair end (differential whine, engine oil consumption, etc.) I see this as a very viable option. But for anything else, I’d steer clear. Using this product as an additive to supplement oil change intervals and such, I don’t see that really happening. Best thing anyone can do is repair the problem, or to perform routine preventative maintenance properly. But if your someone like me, who has an old Silverado with 183k miles, and the rear diff is starting to whine in cold temps, this’ll do for the meantime. But it still doesn’t solve the fact that I need new bearings
I agree with CAT on this one...just follow the manufacturers recommendations. Manufacturers pay engineers to figure all this out and we may be pretty good at turning wrenches but we are not engineers and they are not us. I'd like to have them collaborate a bit more on design so when a wrench needs turned I don't need smaller hands or an extra joint in my arm. Maybe we should run chainsaw bar oil in our engines as they have a lot of tacifiers but it also needs to hang onto the chain and around the nose of the bar to get to the underside of the bar where it's needed, not many areas of my engine that needs that. A note on oil pressure that my newly rebuilt 12 valve Cummins (in my F350) had 70 psi and I could get 500 miles on a tank of fuel...after 30,000 miles I could consistently get 600 plus miles on a tank but at 55 psi. I'm sure the engine limbered up and clearances opened a tiny bit. As always good video Josh!
They are also in the parts business as well
engineers also design in planned life spans so that you will be back for a new one sooner than later.
Long while ago I drove old fully loaded freightliner up a hill. It jus quit on me. Wouldn't pull at all. Smoked as hell. So I walked on highway to a TA. Got gallon of Lucas stabilizer. After adding it, smoke from stack greatly reduces, power came back, so I were able to continue up that hill. This was my friends truck I drove for, and since then I always had couple of gallons Lucas inside engine. For next 6 months same failure never happened again. That was enough to make me believer.
I work at O'Reilly's and was actually wondering what constitutes the usage of Lucas. I have customers come in all the time for the gearbox additive, injector cleaner, and their other stuff but never new it's effectiveness. Great vid.
The upper cylinder lubricant/ injector cleaner is actually pretty legit. I recommend it to anyone that has a carburetor, it keeps it lubed and clean inside.
I use it in my 08LMM Especially in the summer It helps keep oil pressure up by being thicker and yes I do believe it helps with dry starts
Once again increasing oil pressure by making the oil thicker isn't fixing anything
@@brettwalkom948 It does when you have a s***** oil cooler
I did a mix ratio of 70% 15w-40 to 30% Lucas on my 5.9 cummins with 240,000 miles on it and it definitely felt heavier on temperatures under 70F
I'm glad you're not just buying the hype. Lucas does things, but not everyone needs Lucas. It's doesn't just make things better.
One thing about additives is if you don't warm up the motor properly ,,,,soon your turbo will be toast,oil with additives will cavitate when cold.
@@johnhayes1618 Ford had issues with the power stroke injectors, so eventually had to go to a thinner oil to stop foaming in the oil pan. Lucas does make foaming worse.
@@johnhayes1618 600,000 miles my turbos perfect like the day it was born. 20% Lucas and the rest 15w 40 .Lucas DOESNT HURT IT ONLY HELPS, but the truck's gotta be driven ....
Panacea,,,,love it !! Very interesting video. My Dad always said the major oil manufacturers know much more than the aftermarket guys.
They do thousands of hours of testing on dynos to test their oil and additive packages. I'm sticking with straight Shell Rotella 4 for my 6NZ. I do remember Cat did sell an oil additive years back ???
Thanks and take care !!
I've use a similar product called "Morey's" since about 1985, in all of my vehicles, motorbikes, cars, 4x4 etc, I've only ever rebuild my Harley shovel head, the 4x4 I own now is a land cruiser it's done 700.000 now, owned for 23 years and has not been touched, and yes it mixes with auto trans oil(power steering) and gear oil etc very well and have had big success with them as well, diffs, transfer, swivel hubs etc are still all original even wheel bearings have not needed replacing, same with the Landover I used to own and all the other ones, my Vmax has way over 100k and has not needed even a valve adjustment!
Now, all of my vehicles are before 2000 so I could not recommend the product for newer vehicles with very tight clearances because I do not have any experience with them but for older, let's say mid nineties and before certainly.
I don't know what the difference is between the Lucas and Morey's product I hear they are very similar. It works for me!
My boss bought me an awesome 378 peterbilt at auction. MXS Cat. Massive blow by. I milked her for a year with a bit of Lucas. Reason being she had 3 cylinders with all rings damaged and it kept the oil from breaking down as bad. She is now platinum inframed and she will have 0 Lucas in her. Why? Lucas aint bad stuff at all. A well built engine does not need such things.
You are very correct. Use it when the engine needs it, but not when it doesn't!
You need to watch Project farm on oil stabilizers .
My Toyota dealer warned me not to use any oil thickeners as is will cause problems with the variable valve train. They said that the lifters have a extremely small oil passage and it could be too thick to enter and exit the passage causing oil starvation and increased wear and possibly failure. They also advised me that it would or could void the warranty should they suspect that an additive was used. They routinely do oil analysis at a local lab when they suspect the additive was responsible for the failure! They also warned me not to use any zinc containing additives. I don’t know if it was fear mongering I guess or the truth! The fear of losing a warranty is enough to stop me from using any additives not approved by Toyota. I had a Peugeot 1981 504D, the dealer installed a Marvel Mystery Oil Injector! (Plastic container with a hose to the fuel oil filter and separator.) I religiously maintained the oil level and did the routine oil changes every 3000 miles. I got over 267,000 miles on the car with no engine problems! Every other part either rusted or fell off! Love that car as it was comfortable to drive and the front seats turned in to beds!
I stand by marvel mystery oil for neglected engines, it really does clean the engine up over time.
I have used oil stabilizer in worn engines and did experience it running quieter for a while after adding. Also ran it in a old dodge 2L with rod knock after changing out the rod bearings(crank and rod were damaged due to a spun bearing) it did reduce rod knock and helped hold the engine together for several months before I took it out of service(still ran but knocked almost as bad as when it had spun bearings).
In the TX heat I did notice that my car burned less oil when I had the Lucas in it. The MMO does seem to run cleaner for me also.
I admit to using this in only air-cooled engines. 20% ish. I keep my mowers etc.engines (where straight weight oil is the norm).
The horrible tolerances,assembly and quality overall aside, they stay running well past the life of the rest of the machine.
My mower engines outlast the machines they're on and I just use the cheapest oil I can find and change it when it turns black.
We only ever used 10w30 in our small gas engines. One push mower we got brand new in 1996 used it until 2009 when I wanted to rebuild it in small gas engines class in high school. Very little wear in it. Only problem was the carb was worn and needed an overhaul. No idea on the hours but it had to be close to 500+ hours on it. Commercial mowers that are generally now watercooled tend to last about 3000 hours before overhaul. Per the Kawasaki manual on these machines.
Mud mower guys use it along with gear oil to replace the grease the gearboxes are usually filled with.
I don't use mine alot ,but it does run about 5x it's intended input speed and it's been goin for 5-6yrs now.
@@Ratkill9000 check out the Briggs engine they say doesn't need an oil change.
Intended usage is 45mins a week for 4-5mo a year for 15yrs.
I'll attest to that ,as I had one I never changed the oil for 10yrs and it still ran fine when I gave it away and it wasn't one of those engines.
Why waste money on a 79$ push mower that lasted a season by changing the oil?
I would have paid more for a company to come in and do it ,so I'm already ahead of the game.
I use lucas 2 stroke oil in my mower, change the oil every time I mow
I started using Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer in my Nissan NV 200 with 130k miles and I noticed it right away. It’s definitely got more power than before. Feel’s like it gained 5-10 hp
It is only good in warm to hot weather situations ....If you live in an area where there is a winter season with it in the engine ,it will make the oil too thick when the engine gets cold and then dry starts area problem..,..
@@VIDSTORAGE I’m in Florida so yeah it works awesome. And when I did the oil change it didn’t seem any thicker
@@VIDSTORAGE since it works so good in my work van I bought a gallon of the Lucas synthetic for my power stroke
@@danadouglass2822 power stroke Ford ? Lucas clearly states on the label to not use it in that engine ... Get the best AMSOIL.
@@VIDSTORAGE the synthetic say’s it’s for the power stroke
If you have never used it. Do a oil change put it in a milk jug. Next oil change add Lucas, and do the following oil change and milk jug that... Shake at the same time and rest aside. Compare them after time.. Rather have the lube then none. Used in all my vehicles... Plow trucks and all... Not saying the be all end all but another ounce of protection..
I tried Lucas, it did reduce the leaking and such till I got the old cat into the shop but it was a noticeable issue with cold starts. It made plugging in the heater a absolute must, I’d recommend it as a aid to help get the truck back to your regular shop or a few weeks till planned time off or something but I would not recommend for long term use.
Put some Lucas trans additive in my truck was very expensive! Made absolutely no difference! On the label claimed it 30 things it would do to ( repair) your trans looked exactly like STP took forever to get into trans . That’s the last time I’ll ever waste my money on Lucas products. Rislone is the only engine additive I’ve used for a noisy hydraulic lifter or lifters worked great!!!
Whenever a company spends a lot on advertising it makes me wary. Lucas spends a lot. I would rather pay for engineering and materials. But moreso the issue is that you need the balance between speed of lubrication and film strength(thickness). Too thick not good.
Finally someone that speaks the truth, based in logic and knowledge.
Sometimes logical doesn't equal facts
Finally someone who recognizes oil additives for what they are. The only satisfaction you get is a lighter wallet. I’ve only used HDEO in my 6.7L Cummins Ram. It’s all I plan on using.
Your ram is a great pygmy 🐐. Lol. Joking. I hope your 24v serves you well for decades.
Sooooo what's your odometttterrr at? I gots bout 600,000 commercial pulling miles Mine gets Lucas 20% with every oil change. 2014 Ram dulley 6.7 as well , another thing lighter wallet don't hold no water high miles does juuuuust a sayin .......
I use the Lucas SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer, it isn't really any thicker than engine oil, and gives the oil a significantly slipperer feel as well as tackiness.
Does it do anything?
I have a 1995 Volvo 5 cylinder turbo that I picked up cheap.
It had a lot of blowby, so much that the crank case ventilation system could not control it even after replacing the entire system.
The engine smoked considerably, I put one quart in it one day, 15 miles down the road way less smoke. Not only that, no more oil all over the engine.
Does it work? Well it freed up the sticky rings. You decide
I never thought about clearance and oil pressure in this way, thank you very informative.
So I did an experiment with oil in a Honda Accord. I started using 15w40 because I could get it free from work. Now keep in mind this engine is recommended to have 10w30. But I thought hey it has 230k on it, so I'm probably not harming anything, and I didn't. But I did notice that it didn't want to build RPM as fast and it seemed a little slower than normal. So after a few oil changes with 15w40 I went back to a 10w30 and sometimes run a 10w 40, Wich by the way, that is why I don't see a big deal in 15w40. After the switch back to standard recommend 10w30 the car seems to build RPM faster and seems to not be as slow or lagging. It was a good test and an eye opener in viscosity. Hope my comments help. Cheers Scott
Very true. Thicker oil will cause more drag on spinning parts and make the engine have to work harder. Which then uses more gas and can increase the operating temperatures of the engine. I drive old 70's and 80's molars. Have 3 of them. They all have the original drive train. Engines never been apart besides timing chains or intakes. I have experimented with many different oils and additives. I have noticed a very noticeable difference especially in my more worn out and low HP 318. When I use the recommended 5w-30 vs say 10w-30 plus a qt of Lucas. With the plain 5w-30 the engine will accelerate MUCH better. Much faster response. Yet the engine will be noisey. Especially when first started cold. And then after being run hard on the highway and the engine is really warm. No knocking just clatter and ticks. So lifters, rocker arms... When I use thick stuff the engine is sluggish. Have to mash the gas hard and wait for the engine to spin up and "catch itself". When started cold it has lifter tick for 10 seconds. But when fully warm the engine is dead silent. It may also make the idle a bit smoother.
It's really a trade off of what your needs are. But typically I would say most engines should have well passed 150k miles before any additives to thicken the oil are going to have more pros than cons.
Another thing that isn't mentioned much is with older card anyways if you study the owners manuals they have a chart that shows what oil to use based on what outside temperatures are. So say in the winter when it is mostly 40degree and colder it tells you to use 5w-30 or 10w30 , 10w-40. Then in the summer when it's hot out and mostly above 70 degrees. It says use 10w-30 all the way up to a 20w-50. This is how recommendations used to be. So it was left up to you to decide what worked best in your car. But advised to go thin when cold and thick when hot. And increase the thickness when hot more when the engine was older. New cars say passed the 1990's do not have recommendations like this. For two main reasons. The thicker oils cause the engine to work harder ( despite possibly correcting other issues) this makes you use more gas. And the government is all into fuel efficiency standards. So they won't allow the manufactures to recommend something that will decrease fuel efficiency. The next reason is modern engines have gradually better and better tolerances between parts. They are built much more precise and tight fighting. (To increase efficiency partly). So thicker oils are not able to be used safely in them. Because even in a high mileage worn engine. The clearance may still be tighter than in a brand new antique engine.
@@ron1836 Try 5L of LiquiMoly 0w40 Synthoil. It not really flowing as well as a 0 weight ever. But it is flowing down to very cold temps in the winter while protecting well under heat. It has very good clinging to metal after hours and reduces friction. I buy at NAPA for 50 bucks so its not cheap but it's good.
@@jamesmedina2062 I'll have to check it out. I have tried MANY different oil\additive\filter combinations over the years in quite a few vastly different vehicles. I have seen and heard about liquimoly but never tried it or the additives. I believe the only place that has a few jugs of the oil in my small town is an advance auto. Our napa doesn't have shit. It's a small local store with an inch of dust on the shelves.
I would say possibly the only draw backs to using it in old worn out carbureted v 8's would be maybe making leaks worse and also breaking up too much sludge too quickly. But I have used royal purple and Mobil 1 in !y old 318 Chrysler daily driver and haven't had issues. The engine was badly neglected before I had it. Like from the appearance when I had the intake off maybe the previous owner did 1 oil change every 30k miles bad! Haha. So even though 318's are known to usually make it to over 200k miles without big problems this engine is about whipped at 135k. I usually end up using something like Lucas, stop, hyper lube... Because the engine is making noise with regular oil and I don't feel comfortable hearing all that! Haha.
One last thing I wanna say is oil filter types and brands can make a noticable difference in oil pressures too. I found this evident on a 2001 tundra I had. The oil pressure gauge was lower after I changed the oil once and used a different filter than usual.. (can't remember brand) then I bought an actual Toyota oil filter the next time and it gave it atleast another 4-5 psi oil pressure.
@@ron1836 the Toyota filter is nearly identical to the Honda one and they both allow sufficient flow. I wish more vehicles had an oil pressure gauge to check these things. Sludge is not good. You want to get it out at some point probably idling with a cleaner product in the engine like diesel or a designed cleaner. But if its tired can you rebuild it easily? I would guess you have lots of room to work on it, and not many wire looms like modern cars. You can also clean manually removing valve covers. I dread restarting my 351C because it has sat for over 10 years but hopefully I can prime it and get oil into bearings and the rings before firing it up again. I remember the fuel pooling on floor of the intake manifold but the carburetor only might add to dry carbon on pistons or a little dilution of the oil. I am thinking of trying a new Performer RPM intake but before that I am supposed to paint it and change transmission to a manual! At least thats the plan.
Lucas absolutely reduces dry start if you've ever had to clean an engine that used additives you now it's freaking impossible to wash off completely.. kerosene , gas, diesel, brake cleaner, acetone. nothing
I have used Lucas Oil Stableizer in several vehicles. A 1998 Chrysler Concord. It was smoking, changed oil (137,000 miles) added a quart of Lucas and in about a week it stopped smoking, and ran a little smoother. I used it in an 88, Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6. Had about 10,000 miles on a complete reman, it helped get better fuel mileage, by .1 MPG, not much but something. I used it in a Cummins N14 with 1 .2 million miles and it helped get .25 MPG not much, but on 100,000 miles a year it helped a bunch. I also used Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner, combined with the oil Stableizer, I think it helped. Just my opinion and Not the opinion of this channel or its supporters.
Lucas also makes an oil stop leak, I have used it in both big diesel, and gas engines. It does work like Lucas claims.
I use Lucus or moreys oil stabilizer in my 2H toyota diesel engine, I found when I adjust the valves there is still a film of oil between the rocker and valve as apposed to before there was almost none (engine cold), rocker wear is a problem with these old engines.
I agree with just about everything you said. I Just want to point out though so there's no confusion that there is no "zero weight" oil the first number on the viscosity rating, the number that's followed by a W (I.E 10w-30) is not the weight of the oil, the W stands for winter, not weight. It's the oils flow rating during
winter/cold weather. Other than that great video. At the end of the day I feel it's best to just use a high quality oil as opposed to using aftermarket additives.
I thought the 10w was the weight per gallon and 30 vis. Is how long it takes to drain a at. By timimg it
This 10w-30 rating is just a old school rating system for oil. The best oil has the lowest change of oil viscosity over the operating temperature of climate and engine temperatures. So a 0w-50 is a better oil than a 10w-30 or whatever 30 “weight”. The key is the viscosity index of the oil. This is a scale that maps the change of the oil viscosity. Basically buy a wider range of oil temp rating if your conditions demand it. If not, save money if you only run in a small part of the country with stable temperatures.
@@nopenonein wrong, it's not an "old school rating system" it's the universal standard as determined by the society of automotive engineers. And no ideally you don't simply want an oil that has minimal viscosity change you want an oil that has the correct winter flow rating for the climate you're operating in and the correct operating temperature viscosity for the engine. There's no "One size fits all motor oil" however if what you state is completely wrong as there is a bigger viscosity difference between a modern 0w30 oil than there is between an old school 10w30
@@js6729 Citation please
@@js6729 I will go research. May you suggest where I may start. Not pay-walled. Tks
My t56 gearbox has a damaged synchro but when i add this product and after its warm my box shifts like it’s brand new so this product definitely does work
Thank you for that info I’ve been using Lucas in my 2006 KWT 600 with a C 15 for quite some time but this video has kind of open my eyes this truck has just under 900,000 miles and on my next oil change I’m going to try to do it without it
I use all of Lucas oils products, and have been since they came on the market, I have a 56 yr old car, and two 24 year old cars, they all run excellent with 0 mechanical issues, and I attribute that to Lucas. 1 is a diesel over 200k, it passes California smog II with flying colors, so do my other gas ICE cars.
You made great points here good common sense. Now I will say I have great success with there fuel injection conditioner seen it straighten out quit a few injectors mixed with seafoam.
I'm not sure about their other stuff, fuel additives definitely have their place.
I ran the additive in my '04 Silverado from about 150k till I sold it with just under 200k. It raised my oil pressure 20psi and the motor sounded a bit quieter. I never extended my oil changes but when drained it didn't seem much thicker. I wonder if your car called for a 15w20 and you went to a 15w30 you'd get similar results. Great video!
Oil viscosity can vary, depending on your ambient temperatures.
Lucas and other additives, just like all other products, engines, and oils, is not a one-size-fits-all product.
For older engines that see a lot of stop-starts, have a degree of wear with lower oil pressure, worn rings, etc, Lucas can be a lifesaver and keep that engine alive for many more years.
While the best answer to a worn engine is a good, proper rebuild, until the people saying "don't be cheap and rebuild it" or "fix the problem don't bandaid it" start paying for all those rebuilds, it isn't an option for everyone. That comment and attitude is a terrible thing and does nothing but belittle others that have less resources available to them.
The reality is, very few people live in an ideal situation, and that is the market for products like these. For people that need an extra help and are unable to afford the ideal solution.
So, can it do the things it says? Yes, it does. Will it do it for every engine in every situation? No. It will not.
My anecdotal evidence is that it in my 89 3406b PEEC with 2.6 million miles, it lowers the temperature by about 10 degrees, raises power and economy by maybe 0.1 mpg, runs a little more smoothly and oil drain is cleaner. It also works really well in my 1931 Packard running even more smoothly, which is saying something.
I use their various other products in my hubs, gears, rear ends, grease, etc, and have found it to be a superior product to typical conventional products. My hubs are quieter, and 20 degrees cooler with the oil lasting longer than normal hub oil. Rear ends, transmissions are both quieter, smoother and cooler.
As a bandaid, it saved me from an expensive tow bill before. My rear end differential bearing failed, and I was nowhere near a shop not home. Entire chunks and strips of what was left of the rollers were stuck to the magnets. I drained out about half and put in Lucas, and it made a substantial difference in driveability, and allowed me to finish the run, and get another for home. I was able to change the rear end over the weekend, and had no time lost.
I use this on all my engines. Car truck, marine Gas, diesel, hybrid. I love it. Sometimes if I'm having a bad day I'll slap some on my face to get that glowing appearance, maybe sprinkle some in my hair, I met my wife when we were kids playing spin the lucas bottle.
Lucas makes the oil look visibly cleaner on the dip stick when I check mine compared to when I didn't use it. So I think it must be doing something.
My transmission started to slip a few months ago.. so I decided to put some Lucas into it, around 5 ounces. Transmission slip went away two weeks later. Problem solved!
As for the extended life studies: A fellow here on UA-cam did a study using identical (new) 4 cycle Preditor engines. The results were impressive when put up against STP.
If you're referring to Project Farm, he does interesting experiments with different products and machines. I wish the manufacturer themselves would do experiments in like that themselves with larger sample sizes.
@@AdeptApe Yes, that's the channel. And yes, he does lots of interesting tests and from a neutral perspective. The Lucas additive definately impressed me in that run off.
1 owner who did use and not found on his cat engines seem to flake out bearings more when he didn't use at all. Seem to pull overlay metal off more than when he didn't use it. Cats already flake out bearings some but he's back to using again.
This stuff works however I've discovered a problem if the temperature gets too low your engine may not be able to suck oil up in time to seize up a bearing which is what happened to me with a skid steer also I've discovered it's too thick to go through the oil filter which in turns forces the oil out the bypass I would say it's safe if you are careful how much you use but one quart in your engine is way too much
Slick 50 was the space age technology in the 80's!
I use it in my old 92 Subaru Loyale and it has reduced, burn, and some leaking. I don’t go through oil like I use to and I’m simply driving this car until it dies as my work car. I’d say this stuff is better for older cars especially ones that run heavier oil and you can’t find parts for anymore.
G'day,
I totally agree with your comments ,
however ,,i feel perhaps the reality may have been overlooked.
Stabiliser can be used in gearboxs, pumps, transfers differentials, hydraulics, ect ect ,so has.many other uses.
Lucas Oils know any smoking vehical can be defected or fined hundreds for polluting . They also know drivers will use Lucas oil stabiliser to avoid fines and prolong engine life until they can repair or replace said vehicle.
Lucas are after market share of those polluting vehicals , so realisticly Lucas are not aiming the product at new or performance vehicals.
Finally ,, Lucas are careful to use language that maximises their matket share, even if its not a performance product.
Lucas also give suggested dilution rates ,
How can it cool better ,,by prolonging the time it runs down a surface ,, in theory will allow more heat transfer .
Cool vid ,
Respect
from
Down Under
A friend of mine used Lucas since the day he drove the truck off lot and had to have a complete in frame overhaul twice right at 600,000 miles. I never used it and we both had 07 C15 cat engines and I got over a million miles before only needing an overhead and upper rebuild! The shop and a cat rep told my buddy that the additive actually caused the excessive wear.
Absolutely shows the truth you don't change viscosities great comment
All depends on how it was driven and the loads that were pulled.
I have never used any of these type of products in anything in the actual oil; I have soaked my rod & main bearings for high perf V8 gasoline engines in Slick 50 to get the friction reduction qualities at the bearings, but not in any contact (except the very small residual amounts) anywhere near the cylinder walls. Honestly, I don't know how much advantage that achieved, but I bought one bottle for about $30 & used it on 7 or 8 engines, so I figured it was worth a try. I also use a zinc additive for initial run on new flat tappet cams after the late 80s. That said, since 2007, I have only used conventional 10-30 oil in all of my vehicles (mid 1990 through mid 2000 model year domestic gas V6) & changed the oil at 4000 - 5000 mile intervals with an OE filter. I have over 450,000 on 3, 385,000 on one, & 180,000 on another with only one of them (96 Chevy 3100) using any measurable amount of oil, & it uses less than a quart between oil changes. I also perform other basic PM on the entire vehicle. I really can't think of a good reason to put these products in any vehicle. Another Question: if not suitable in Power Stroke engines, wouldn't it stand to reason that it should never be used in CAT engines with HUEI systems as well?
I thought it said 6.7 powerstroke. That engine doesn't have an hpop. I think you can't use it because of that engines tighter tolerances
Never mind I seen what you were talking about, it definitely says powerstroke
I drive a 1997 Toyota 4runner. I added it in within moments, I literally heard my valve train become quieter. It seems to run a little bit smoother, but that is most likely a placebo. However, I can physically show a difference in audible noise Before & After running Lucas oil.
Your scientific analogy is cool but . I just sold a man two years ago a 2001 ram 3500 with 835k on it and he is still driving it running strong . My 2018 has 270k on it and I change oil every 8k using Lucas 1 to every 5 qtrs. of Mobil . Never been in either engine and never uses any oil between changes . There's my science class and I'm sticking with Lucas and Mobil .