I've pulled out that 1/4" nipple on the side of the head pipe, then drilled and tapped it to 1/8 NPT. Then I used a 3/8" hose and larger aftermarket bypass fitting.
Love your videos. Quick question. I have a Kawasaki X2 650 motor Had 135 compression in front and 150 in the rear. Tore it down, crank appeared to be in good condition, pistons appeared to be in good condition. All I changed was the gaskets, piston bearings, and rings. Honed the cylinders with a ball hone, and now I am getting 120 front & 150 rear? Any ideas? Maybe the hone smoothed the front cylinder out too much.
When you had it apart did you measure the cylinder bore or check the cylinder to piston clearance? Just wondered if the front bore was worn more than the rear for some reason.
Have you figured it out yet? It's weird the same cylinder is low after the rebuild. Did you take a look at the reed valves? If they are broken or not sealing properly on the front that could cause low compression numbers.
Hey i have a 1990 kawi 550 sx with 650 swap and a makuni carb and dry pipe mod that someone else did. Bought this on Facebook marketplace. I have had problems with the exhaust couple melting where the head pipe goes into the expansion section. I ran duel cooling on it in hope to solve this problem. But even though it doubled my ride time the coupler eventually still melted after about 15 mins. I will note that the person that did the dry pipe mod sealed that hole off completely. Is that always supposed to have some kind of water flowing through it? I have the exhaust pulled now should i drill a small port through the jb weld? With my ski head pipe set up it was able to use the stock bung that was provided to drill and tap. I get sizzle on the expansion chamber and also a little on the crank case. Is this normal? Any thoughts?
You definitely need to drill a small hole through the JB weld and let some water into the pipe. I'd say that's exactly why you are burning the coupler. A small amount of sizzle on the expansion chamber is normal but not the crankcase in my experience. Getting some water inside the head pipe will probably fix it though.
Yes you will either block off the hose that goes to the back of the hull or use it for a water exit. In the video dry pipe results I ended up putting a T in the dry pipe hose and bypassed some of the water out that rear hull fitting.
I've pulled out that 1/4" nipple on the side of the head pipe, then drilled and tapped it to 1/8 NPT. Then I used a 3/8" hose and larger aftermarket bypass fitting.
Great walk-thru video! I've read about the dry-pipe mod for years. Looking forward to your impressions. Might be a worthy upgrade to my 650sx. Cheers!
Thanks! My son and I are going to the lake in the morning so I should know soon if it was worthwhile.
Love your videos. Quick question.
I have a Kawasaki X2 650 motor
Had 135 compression in front and 150 in the rear.
Tore it down, crank appeared to be in good condition, pistons appeared to be in good condition.
All I changed was the gaskets, piston bearings, and rings.
Honed the cylinders with a ball hone, and now I am getting 120 front & 150 rear?
Any ideas? Maybe the hone smoothed the front cylinder out too much.
When you had it apart did you measure the cylinder bore or check the cylinder to piston clearance? Just wondered if the front bore was worn more than the rear for some reason.
@@xpsgarage i checked it using a feeler gauge, appeared to be normal as the rear. .004
Have you figured it out yet? It's weird the same cylinder is low after the rebuild. Did you take a look at the reed valves? If they are broken or not sealing properly on the front that could cause low compression numbers.
Hey i have a 1990 kawi 550 sx with 650 swap and a makuni carb and dry pipe mod that someone else did. Bought this on Facebook marketplace. I have had problems with the exhaust couple melting where the head pipe goes into the expansion section. I ran duel cooling on it in hope to solve this problem. But even though it doubled my ride time the coupler eventually still melted after about 15 mins. I will note that the person that did the dry pipe mod sealed that hole off completely. Is that always supposed to have some kind of water flowing through it? I have the exhaust pulled now should i drill a small port through the jb weld? With my ski head pipe set up it was able to use the stock bung that was provided to drill and tap. I get sizzle on the expansion chamber and also a little on the crank case. Is this normal? Any thoughts?
You definitely need to drill a small hole through the JB weld and let some water into the pipe. I'd say that's exactly why you are burning the coupler. A small amount of sizzle on the expansion chamber is normal but not the crankcase in my experience. Getting some water inside the head pipe will probably fix it though.
at 3:16, since mine has that hose and yours was already done, will i have to block off that hose inside of the hull? little confused
Yes you will either block off the hose that goes to the back of the hull or use it for a water exit. In the video dry pipe results I ended up putting a T in the dry pipe hose and bypassed some of the water out that rear hull fitting.
thankyou. do you do X2 crankshaft rebuilds?
No, the two I did for my skis were enough for me.