Thank you- Short & Sweet! Great video without all the fluff. This describes what I’m up against, except my door is above the ledger board. I’m dealing with water damage as the previous owners didn’t use flashing.
Nice tips. The people who built my deck did not install any ledger board flashing and fortunately there has been no water infiltration since built about 24 years ago because they silicone the bottom of the vinyl siding to the deck board; shiiiisters. I found this issue because I had to remove 6 deck boards to dig a trench to apply termiticide under the deck. I also found they did not use corner bracing on a few side boards and only nailed the one board to the house (no lag bolts). I am now checking for other short cuts the builder took and making corrections. The inspector obviously missed these errors. Dam shiiiisters.
I have an all brick, 60 yo house with a back deck that was built properly and per code 20 years ago. The boards & railing were removed 2 years ago to replace. The base frame was in great condition so waterproofing tape was installed over the frame boards and new boards and rails put on. I had an inspector out yesterday for something else and he was commenting on the deck and lack of flashing, saying water could seep in between the board and brick wall without flashing. I pointed out that the soffit above covers that space. It was raining at the time and I pointed out that the deck board that runs along the house is completely dry while the other boards are wet. Code did not require flashing when the deck was built. He told me to put caulk between the board and the brick since there is no flashing. I'm searching online to learn if this is advisable. I've never had water seep in there but I'm fine with running some caulk along there if advisable.
I'm sorry, I didn't get that on video. Basically, you install a piece of J channel on the deck at the bottom then cut the vinyl to fit down into it. You will need to lift the piece of siding above it to nail the ripped piece and then pop the top piece of siding over the hem to click it in.
Buying a house and my inspector told us about "flashing". I had no idea what it was. Apparently the builders of the house we are buying neglected to install flashing between the butt joints of our siding (hardie wood plank). They said we could either chalk it, as a stop gap for now which is the "wrong way to do it" or we could just try sliding some flashing behind after lifting up the siding.
Great video thanks. Our wall is pebbledash, not timber, and we have water penetration indoors in heavy or prolonged rain. There's no flashing I can see so water gets in easily.
How do you re-attach the bottom piece of siding? Since the siding gets nailed at the top and the rest of the siding over lap each other then how would you nail it back up?
Easy with vinyl, it’s flexible enough to stretch. Lift it up to nail in bottom pieces, then pull down on the second row to attach. There’s also a tool at any box store little red handle ‘siding removal tool’ like $10.
Yes that’s why there are weep holes in the bottom of every piece. Those J trims, corner pieces etc are like 1/2 or 5/8 or 3/4 inch depending on product. Tyvek or older black felt is your actual waterproof so it needs to be 100%. Only thing I see missing here is tyvek overlapping the flashing. Or at least tuck tape the top of the flashing he’s adding. But tyvek over is best. And still tape tyvek to flashing for air barrier.
U have to flash the ledger board under the siding. A 6” pc of z flashing under siding attached to sheathing, ice hard against, an down an over top of ledger. Matt
Yes it is good to flash behind to under for the siding below or for the sill plate coverage etc. but still flashing over like this saves the back of the ledger board. If water is running down the tyvek going behind ledger doesn’t matter PT will rot.
Please do not follow this advice. That piece of "flashing" will do almost nothing to direct water out from the building. There is no integration into a building envelope. Flashing in this area must start behind a water-resistive barrier, and the way he installed this, it does not. This is bad advice.
Need to install ice & watersheild along the top of flashing edge to building, best to do before door is installed & oh ya WHAT ABOUT THE TOP OF THE SIDING UNDER THE DECK WHERE IT MEETS LEDGER BOARD HE DOESN'T EVEN MENTION THIS AREA! U WILL HAVE SAME LEAK ISSUE THERE!
Thank you- Short & Sweet! Great video without all the fluff. This describes what I’m up against, except my door is above the ledger board. I’m dealing with water damage as the previous owners didn’t use flashing.
Thanks for your short video with useful information. Much appreciated.
Nice tips. The people who built my deck did not install any ledger board flashing and fortunately there has been no water infiltration since built about 24 years ago because they silicone the bottom of the vinyl siding to the deck board; shiiiisters. I found this issue because I had to remove 6 deck boards to dig a trench to apply termiticide under the deck. I also found they did not use corner bracing on a few side boards and only nailed the one board to the house (no lag bolts). I am now checking for other short cuts the builder took and making corrections. The inspector obviously missed these errors. Dam shiiiisters.
I have no flashing at all on either of my decks. Water infiltration in boiler room. Pretty cool 🙄
@@davidsmith9 Oh wow. Was there any serious damaged?
Exactly what in dealing with. Thanks for the advice!
This literally answered all my questions!
Good video. It would be great if you showed how to put the siding back also. Thanks.
Great job.
I have an all brick, 60 yo house with a back deck that was built properly and per code 20 years ago. The boards & railing were removed 2 years ago to replace. The base frame was in great condition so waterproofing tape was installed over the frame boards and new boards and rails put on. I had an inspector out yesterday for something else and he was commenting on the deck and lack of flashing, saying water could seep in between the board and brick wall without flashing.
I pointed out that the soffit above covers that space. It was raining at the time and I pointed out that the deck board that runs along the house is completely dry while the other boards are wet. Code did not require flashing when the deck was built. He told me to put caulk between the board and the brick since there is no flashing. I'm searching online to learn if this is advisable. I've never had water seep in there but I'm fine with running some caulk along there if advisable.
Can you show the install of the vinyl siding? You mentioned it in your video but never showed it. Good video. Thanks.
I'm sorry, I didn't get that on video. Basically, you install a piece of J channel on the deck at the bottom then cut the vinyl to fit down into it. You will need to lift the piece of siding above it to nail the ripped piece and then pop the top piece of siding over the hem to click it in.
@@Homemaintenancesolution Thank you for the explanation. Your video was very helpful!
Thanks for this video! Appreciate it!
Well Done! Thank You!
Buying a house and my inspector told us about "flashing". I had no idea what it was. Apparently the builders of the house we are buying neglected to install flashing between the butt joints of our siding (hardie wood plank).
They said we could either chalk it, as a stop gap for now which is the "wrong way to do it" or we could just try sliding some flashing behind after lifting up the siding.
Where did you find the plastic flashing?
Shouldn't that flashing go behind the tyvek against the sheathing?
Yes!
Great video thanks. Our wall is pebbledash, not timber, and we have water penetration indoors in heavy or prolonged rain. There's no flashing I can see so water gets in easily.
Thank you so much, just what I need. I will do the same way you did it . :)
Thank you so much! Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Solid advice
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Good info thanks 🙏
How do you re-attach the bottom piece of siding? Since the siding gets nailed at the top and the rest of the siding over lap each other then how would you nail it back up?
Easy with vinyl, it’s flexible enough to stretch.
Lift it up to nail in bottom pieces, then pull down on the second row to attach.
There’s also a tool at any box store little red handle ‘siding removal tool’ like $10.
Thanks!
So the water can get behind vinyl siding?
all the time
Yes that’s why there are weep holes in the bottom of every piece. Those J trims, corner pieces etc are like 1/2 or 5/8 or 3/4 inch depending on product.
Tyvek or older black felt is your actual waterproof so it needs to be 100%.
Only thing I see missing here is tyvek overlapping the flashing. Or at least tuck tape the top of the flashing he’s adding. But tyvek over is best. And still tape tyvek to flashing for air barrier.
Vinyl siding is not water-proof. If you don't have house wrap, which you should, you need an ice and water membrane.
I dont like this flashing with turn down edge directing water to end grain joist.
U have to flash the ledger board under the siding. A 6” pc of z flashing under siding attached to sheathing, ice hard against, an down an over top of ledger.
Matt
Thanks for your comment.
Yes it is good to flash behind to under for the siding below or for the sill plate coverage etc. but still flashing over like this saves the back of the ledger board.
If water is running down the tyvek going behind ledger doesn’t matter PT will rot.
Why do you have 10 toes on your hands?
I prefer to build the deck 1 inch from the wall. This way no flashing is needed.
How do you build a deck 1inch from the wall with a Ledger board? Most decks have a ledger
everytime i build a deck i have a joint...lol
😄
Im on my contractors ass for not flashing my new deck he built. May have to do it myself .I thought I needed to pull the deck from the house.
Please do not follow this advice. That piece of "flashing" will do almost nothing to direct water out from the building. There is no integration into a building envelope. Flashing in this area must start behind a water-resistive barrier, and the way he installed this, it does not. This is bad advice.
True! First I thought he is showing how not to do it but then scrolled down to find your comment
Shouldn't the tyvex go over the metal flashing??
IN this application, yes. @@peterbedford2610
Need to install ice & watersheild along the top of flashing edge to building, best to do before door is installed & oh ya WHAT ABOUT THE TOP OF THE SIDING UNDER THE DECK WHERE IT MEETS LEDGER BOARD HE DOESN'T EVEN MENTION THIS AREA! U WILL HAVE SAME LEAK ISSUE THERE!
And the door has zero flashing .
Yeah this guy is not smart
What if there is a roof over deck 🤔
Flash anyway. Water and snow gets on your feet. Also joist tape on the top of the joists. Then Simpsons screws. It will last for decades.