Thank you for shedding light on the errors made by companies who have worked on my house. Finding anyone who puts the time and attention in to details like the ones you just reviewed is next to impossible.
I don’t understand having any thumbs down on this lol. This was very helpful for the way my house was already built and rotted out. I now know how to fix it.
This house is going to be so layered, it will definitely be the last house standing from this era! I love it, I bet Matt is constantly thinking about every extra step he can add to add years to his house...I hope it becomes a family heirloom that stays a Risinger home for several Generations, if we don't get ourselves kicked off the planet by then!
Well if his family doesn't keep it, I'm sure the next owner will appreciate the effort he put in to keep it as trouble free as possible. Of course, not everyone is a builder and may wonder what the point of going to all the trouble. Some people unfortunately, 'just don't care'.
Even though I find this project kind off of the rails, I've always appreciated the honesty. I know you bought the house basically sight unseen to help out someone from your church. It has certainly been a journey learning the real condition.
I like your focus on the detail on sealing out water that people typically skim over. You showed something unique. People make so many assumptions to resolve a potential problem but you showed some nice detail on a potential future problem you didn't want occurring and unique resolution to it ... nice !!
You have a specific video for every last thing I want to over-engineer on my own projects. I wish they sold a lot of this stuff at Lowes because now I'm waiting for deliveries, but it's totally worth it.
Old school, my man. This is how flashing on chimneys was done (cutting the groove in the brick chimney and inserting a 90 degree bent corner to keep water from running behind the flashing instead of the dumb way done today with surface mounted flashing and gallons of silicone which eventually dries out and allows it to leak. Good job.
i have a concrete walk the butts up agains the perimeter of the garage, and the walk is higher than the foundation inside- i ways feared the water getting through the stucco and seeping into the wood. this is a brilliant technical to address the problem! thank yo
In this world of on demand videos I find myself wanting to binge watch this build, keep pumping them out brother, im excited to see more details about your build. Here's a idea for you; make a dvd of the build and make a time capsule in a wall or floor of your house, that way in 100 years when its being remodeled they will find it. You could ask fans what to put in it, that would be great just be sure to add a build hat!
Actually happy to see you using a kneeling pad. I have worked in construction and retail, where kneeling on concrete floors is an all day thing. Knee pads aren't always the best answer.
Seeing these little details is just amazing. I was pressure washing my patio off of my walkout basement and had water go right underneath the wall and into said basement. Luckily it's unfinished, but this detail would have been perfect to stop this from happening.
I have a question we are going to be building a block house in the Philippines but I don't really trust the products that they have can you give me some ideas
Love your content, though I am not a builder, other than amateur handyman. Love your occasional collaborations with the "other" Matt on his "mansion" project as well. Thank you for the content, always enjoyable!
thats an interesting solution to your problem. since I will be building in snow country, I was thinking that a complete wrap around porch, about 8 feet out, with gravel base should keep any and all water away from my foundation/basement walls. the freeze/thaw cycle would never have a chance either.
Great detail. Hurricane Ike caused $22 k damage to our house in 2008 due to wind-driven rain getting through the brick veneer and running down the sheathing and coming in under the sill plate. (And the weep holes had been plugged by mulch)
You always deliver good useful detailed info that we listen closely to fully grok. Not sure if the conga drums are a necessary counterpoint. Maybe long notes on an organ would move the flow more subtly
Matt, since you're in Austin: you should consider doing a 'compare & contrast' with Gary Zuker's build there-since he went the ''natural materials' and 'DIY route''; toured on Kirsten Dirksen's channel. . . . Video is titled 'Austin coder builds timeless cob home using precise patterns'.
I have kerfed 1 inch deep at planned sheeting line and stood up flashing bedded in tremco buytl and incorporate into WRB. No bend necessary and a much deeper embedment. On house to garage slabs I cast in place.
Great stuff, as always. I’m excited to see how you finish this floor. I’ve struggled to perfect this detail and appreciate your thoughtful guidance here.
internal corners look great but what did you do on external corner with metal flashing - we have the same situation on our balcony/porch which been filtrating for 40 years on the line where is concrete slab of the porch is connecting to the wall of the house, now we are trying to the same system as you just showed with copper flashing and external corner is very tricky one to make it tight, flash and waterproofed..
One little missed detail...your vertical zip tape on the seams of the zip panels should shingle/lap over the horizontal zip tape you installed for the flashing. I don't agree with the kerf cut into the concrete with flashing embed in sealant. This is a water wicking scenario when the sealant fails. I would use a brick ledge flashing profile making sure the slope is maintained during install. This way, water intrusion won't wick up into the zip panel. Never butt joints with flashing.
Like concrete, there are 2 types of sealant, ones that have failed and ones that will fail,...….mechanical flashing, IE shingled does not require sealants. Sealants are required in some places/circumstances...…..that's just the way it is...…..while they can certainly be minimized, they can not eliminated.
The sealant isn't there as a front-line defense. It's basically there as a "belt an suspenders and ..." type solution. The actual finish of the wall/porch surface is the front line defense. The flashing is there to handle whatever little bit gets by the wall finish. The sealant is there mainly as a bulk filler (like packing peanuts in a shipping box) for the minimal space in the kerf cut and under the flashing. If it has its own waterproof/resistant properties, and is long-lived as a sealant? Bonus points! So, even if the sealant fails (as a sealant or an adhesive), it's still providing the bulk fill in the waterproofing solution.
@@aayotechnology Unless there was a detail/tolerance that prevented it no,...but it would have still used the same sealants no matter what. Who knows, the sealant might out last the flashing.....
I would suggest having another bead of sealant behind the vertical leg to prevent any chance of sweat (condensation) or water overtopping of the flashing for mold/mildew prevention. Also, you're creating an open hole when running screws through the flashing, so apply an extra vertical broad bead on the wall through which the screw will pass sealing that possible water pathway. I just don't think your tape will adhere or resist punctures as well as you hope ( I noticed your head shaking in doubt) it will.
Hey Mat, a quick question from Australia. Did you do anything to minimize thermal bridging between the existing slab inside the house and the new slab on the porch? If not what suggestions do you have to insulate between the internal and external slabs. Would be interested in a video discussing this. Stay safe.
How well do they last on your kitchen table? I’ll be covering my entire structure with 2” of foam so all my tapes and sealants won’t see much +- 15 degrees of inside temps.
With enough money, you can make something last thousands of years. You could go with all stainless steel framing and sheathing, welded together. Your kitchen sink does pretty well as a water barrier, and if you go to a railroad museum, you'll see stainless steel passenger cars that have been mostly outside in the weather since they were built in the 40s. They last pretty well. This will cost you mucho dinero, but for a thousand years, hey, it's worth it, right? Finish off the exterior with thick granite ashlar blocks, and, well, you've seen the Lion Gate at Mycenae, right? That's been there 3250 years now.
ASTM life cycle testing, blast it with UV at high temps and then spray it with salt water or acid etc. The plastic may last but adhesives tend to be the first part to go, I too am interested in how the zip flashing and others hold up over a few decades.
I like thinking about little things that would give houses a longer life span, because I see so many houses falling apart due to not having basic prevention, then Matt here goes and 3X that haha
Hi Mate, if you wanted to add an extra precaution for waterproofing you could add a waterproofing membrane. I have seen cases here in Australia where people haven't waterproofed bathrooms properly and haven't fully coated the base of the shower and just sealed the floor-wall junctions, the concrete gets waterlogged and the moisture migrates under the waterproofing and out into the neighbouring rooms. This could happen with your flashing if you get moisture sitting there for long enough. Very unlikely but could be worthwhile if you want to ensure no water enters your house
I think this will help me. My porch (concrete) is above my garage. I got a water leak damaging the ceiling of this unit. The concrete has several cracks but the water leak stains makes me believe that the water is coming straight down from the siding that most likely doesn't have the flashing joint. What else do you recommend i could do to the concrete porch, which was built back in 1976, to ensure there are not more water leaks. The association can't afford to redo the whole concrete porch. Contractor is recommending a Rubber membrane to repel the water in the meantime. any recommendations? have you ever deal with something like that?
Please refer me to a place where I can get this flushing because the addition was built directly onto patio concrete and the wall framing was put directly onto it which allowed some water to flow into the house under the framing which may have rotten the old joists and Im in the middle of replacing the joists and sistering the suds along with new bottom frame under the studs. I wish I could attach some pictures to this but.... I need advice to do it myself, I would put new exterior walls but i need to prevent the water from coming in. So I need a place to buy the flush metal thing. I need help asap.. Thank you
We are in the process of replacing our siding, and doing this at our patio. I am unable to find any z bars taller than 1- 1/8 to fasten to the sheathing. This is fine to attach where the patio slab is closer to the baseplate, but further down the grade, it doesn’t reach to fasten it with nails. Would you suggest fastening with only polymer in these areas, or attaching the flashing level with the baseplate and bending the bar to attach into the cut? Thanks!
Your videos are awesome. I changed the garage door to the opposite side and had been having water coming in after I applied stucco, I completely missed doing this and will be doing it soon. Also I’m trying to level my garage floor because it’s uneven due to the door movement. It had about 2” difference for water to out come in but now I need it leveled. Know how I can do that since it quite a bit ? Thanks
Matt, thanks for sharing! Quick question: can we use 2" x 1-1/2" x 1/2". x 10 ft. 28 Gauge Galvanized Steel Water Table Flashing or Drip Cap? It protects the top of exterior windows and doors from water infiltration. It seems to have the same shape. Jamie
What do you recommend for an addition that has no sill plate gasket and the sill plate itself is flush with the concrete slab? (So I can’t do metal flashing atleast not a bent piece) All I can access is the exterior of the addition/home and it has t-1-11 siding on it, and some areas I can see about 1/4 inch of the sill plate when on my knees looking up into the foundation and t-1-11. And other parts I can only see about 1/8th of an inch of the sill plate. (Due to the t-1-11 being placed not perfectly straight) I live in Florida and definitely need to seal out the water and bugs! Please help. I was thinking liquid flashing by zip like you recommended in one of your articles and getting some sort of sticky flashing tape once the liquid flashing dries just to make it look more like a straight black line cause I assume liquid flashing may be a bit messy. Do you have a better suggestion? Not too concerned about looks more concerned about waterproofing without having to take all the t-1-11 off If possible
Hey Matt, I've built my house myself watching a LOT of your videos, so thanks for good information being shared. I have the same ledge around my walkout basement/patio slab. I was just going to use the Huber Liquid Flash for the transition between the Zipwall and the slab drop which is about three inches. Do you think that will be fine or should I use the Prosoco? I liquid flashed all of my windows, so I have both on hand. I was going to use your "Zip 1.5" method.
sponsorship legalities will prevent him from answering, most likely. IMHO and not having much experience with the products, I would bet both fluid applied materials are essentially the same chemistry
This really looks like complex thinking..and i believe this will happen only when you are building your own..usually i don't see this kind of details in houses that somebody else is building..But again..it looks like it actually works...btw i think..it looks to me like that metal sheet was bended too much..i would suggest bent it in angle more than 90 degree (so it would rather want to touch the wall instead of going opposite way then you have to force it by screws towards the wood)...i'm a bit afraid that that stainless steel might come off..even it was glued..but during days or years..it might.. But again..Nice video and you did what you could to prevent water coming inside..100 points for that :)
Great vid and although I rarely comment I need help. WHY does HD sell cheap deck screw with a star? bit? What happened to the #2 Phillips (that I have dozens of)??? Is it a better driver but I got a cheap/junk bit? Thanks
Hey matt so are the products used in this video (the black caulking you used )better than the huber zip liquid flashing you use in the newer videos ????
I am currently in the middle of an identical project and this was so helpful - thanx much! One question though, is it necessary to cut into the slab so the lip goes into it? As I don't have equipment that will saw through concrete, could I just have the flashing coming out say 4 or 5 inches? Also, would that BTL product be useful under the plate for a little extra protection? I got a lot of rain water coming in and need every bit of insurance I can get....thanx.
What's the minimum required in Texas? our builder did not install any flashing where the siding meets the foundation and the foundation sticks out about an inch off the exterior wall, this along with the fact that the siding butts with the foundation instead of overlapping, is causing water to leak into our garage. The problem is that, this can be seen happening at other portions of the house which is concerning.
Hey I have been watching your videos gathering info about ZIP sheeting I seen in one of ur videos u was using all liquid flash and even used it on the sheeting to foundation detail did you not like that doing this just wondering .. I am going to use ZIP sheeting on my mom's house and not to many people around here have used it I really liked the idea of the liquid flash looks like u can make a simple thought less water tight seems
I've concluded that this house is a good exercise in using every bit of cutting edge techniques available. I'd guess that you could get 90% of the benefits in all that he's done by spending 50-60% of the money he's spending. There are thousands and thousands of houses built with 19th century technology that don't have water damage after many decades of exposure in much more harsh climates than Austin. While I admire his insulation package from the aspect of reducing greenhouse gas emissions from heating (occasionally) and cooling (often) this house, with cutting edge mechanicals, the insulation overkill is, in my engineering opinion, wasted money. I think there would be more value to society in figuring out how to translate some of these technologies to production builder houses at a reasonable cost. For example, how could Zip type sheathing replace OSB and Tyvek at a reasonable cost in a 2000 home development.
@@microwavedsoda Why would I be jealous? Just stating an opinion that he's going overboard and I doubt if anyone could convince a bank to loan the money without sponsor discounts. As an engineer it's an impressive effort. As an engineer it's not justifiable other than as an experiment.
I have to say that demonstrating materials and methods that are not as advanced as we were using 10 years ago doesn't really qualify as "cutting edge", but I guess that is somewhat in the eye of the beholder. Matt's claim to fame is a platform for publicizing stuff not commonly done by the trades, which is good thing, in and of itself. Leaving aside for the moment the cost/ benefit value judgement made in the reply above, I would throw this out: In 18 years working in the Boston area, I did entirely renovations and additions on existing structures, aged 30 to 90 years old. I found that 100% of the structures I worked on had present infestations of carpenter ants or termites, or significant damage from past infestations. All of those revolved around water penetration and damage; the bugs follow the moisture softening, and then accelerate it.The upshot was I have had a personal "crusade" for water management, starting way back when (mid-seventies, actually). When I moved to Colorado in 1994, I worked for another builder for a short time, doing new houses (the boom times). I looked at the shoddy building practices, felt the warm dry air, and concluded that the locals knew their stuff. Once back to doing my own jobs, I had to start on renovations and additions, all over again. Quickly learned, most of the same water intrusion problems existed here, just to a lesser degree, and without the bugs (except for one notable project). The changing insulation standards that started after the '73 energy crisis threw the industry into turmoil, and I don't see in the construction landscape that anywhere near the improved response has been made, given all this time. A few years ago, I was called as an expert examiner, by my attorney, for a severe water leak situation in a 6 year old house in a "New Community". When the legal dust had settled, I was engaged to do the remediation work. Wind driven rains from the north would leave one third of the living room floor in a huge puddle of water. Other windows had leaks that had internal structural damage. Every person(neighbor) who walked by while we were on-site had a leak story of their own. I simply shake my head at the greed, ignorance and incompetence that is rampant in the developer/ residential construction industry. Most citizens are now so conditioned by the "Walmart Effect" (you can have a bigger one of EVERYTHING, and way cheaper, too) that quality and long-term considerations of durability and maintenance costs never come up as a decision-making factor. A really smart client of mine (45 years ago) told me there are two ways to buy something: PRICE or COST.
@@michaelpatrick6950 it's hilarious you think banks make the decisions on the money. We build too many blank check houses here in MD. These customers make $220k annually and the bank approves any tech they want all the way up to $2M. We know the price will go up in 20 years
Also, in our home, we don’t have sheathing at all. Because of cost and contemplation of your and other recommendations, we have decided to do tyvek attached to framing, with a layer of 3/4 xps sheathing, then a layer of stucco wrap as a rain screen, followed by Hardie. Would this flashing attach to the first layer of tyvek? Any thoughts/recommendations on what we have going on here? We don’t have time to wait for zip to come down in pricing.
Matt, What is your opinion about using the Zip 2.0 system in an area that may flood? (South Louisiana) On flooding right about the slab (2-3”) when doors are sand bagged could the Zip system hold back water? Once flooded, less than 1 foot, is opening the drywall enough to dry out cavities? In flood prone areas, would you recommend other methods? Love your show, the science, and attention to detail. Thanks for all you do! Richie
This looks like a great solution to a problem at my house. Would aluminum flashing be sufficient? I imagine stainless steel has to be really expensive.
I haven't watched all Matts videos but this might the first one that I've seen him actually doing the work. Nice.
Thank you for shedding light on the errors made by companies who have worked on my house. Finding anyone who puts the time and attention in to details like the ones you just reviewed is next to impossible.
I’m a mason out of Columbia MO I love using Mortar Net products! Awesome brother, love seeing time spent and actually caring of quality over quantity
I've been going through all these videos. It seems like Matt has been building his own house for 15 years! Great stuff.
I have done this several times. In places where there was negative fall. I used polyurethane concrete self leveling caulk. Very effective
I don’t understand having any thumbs down on this lol. This was very helpful for the way my house was already built and rotted out. I now know how to fix it.
This house is going to be so layered, it will definitely be the last house standing from this era! I love it, I bet Matt is constantly thinking about every extra step he can add to add years to his house...I hope it becomes a family heirloom that stays a Risinger home for several Generations, if we don't get ourselves kicked off the planet by then!
Well if his family doesn't keep it, I'm sure the next owner will appreciate the effort he put in to keep it as trouble free as possible. Of course, not everyone is a builder and may wonder what the point of going to all the trouble.
Some people unfortunately, 'just don't care'.
Adam Garrett he almost makes me feel bad for my “it only has to outlast me” mentality lol
Definitely will be sold
@@Iamthathillbilly that's real. You leave something that's worth a child's entire net worth. They better sell and downsize
Even though I find this project kind off of the rails, I've always appreciated the honesty. I know you bought the house basically sight unseen to help out someone from your church. It has certainly been a journey learning the real condition.
I like your focus on the detail on sealing out water that people typically skim over. You showed something unique. People make so many assumptions to resolve a potential problem but you showed some nice detail on a potential future problem you didn't want occurring and unique resolution to it ... nice !!
You have a specific video for every last thing I want to over-engineer on my own projects. I wish they sold a lot of this stuff at Lowes because now I'm waiting for deliveries, but it's totally worth it.
No joke - your porch is bigger than my house.
I've been watching your channel for about a year - great to see you finally doing some work!
This guy is a king! He is water sealing his house like he's water sealing shower.
I would love to have him build my house in the future
Belt and braces approach. Excellent. This is the first time I have seen this detail, and I think it is awesome.
These are the kinds of details that make a huge difference.
Old school, my man. This is how flashing on chimneys was done (cutting the groove in the brick chimney and inserting a 90 degree bent corner to keep water from running behind the flashing instead of the dumb way done today with surface mounted flashing and gallons of silicone which eventually dries out and allows it to leak. Good job.
i have a concrete walk the butts up agains the perimeter of the garage, and the walk is higher than the foundation inside- i ways feared the water getting through the stucco and seeping into the wood. this is a brilliant technical to address the problem! thank yo
In this world of on demand videos I find myself wanting to binge watch this build, keep pumping them out brother, im excited to see more details about your build. Here's a idea for you; make a dvd of the build and make a time capsule in a wall or floor of your house, that way in 100 years when its being remodeled they will find it. You could ask fans what to put in it, that would be great just be sure to add a build hat!
Really useful information for a problematic condition. Lots of time you find this issue on remodels so a really good fix.
Really useful info... but man do I hate that stupid ending. Such a bro.
Actually happy to see you using a kneeling pad. I have worked in construction and retail, where kneeling on concrete floors is an all day thing. Knee pads aren't always the best answer.
Seeing these little details is just amazing. I was pressure washing my patio off of my walkout basement and had water go right underneath the wall and into said basement. Luckily it's unfinished, but this detail would have been perfect to stop this from happening.
I have a question we are going to be building a block house in the Philippines but I don't really trust the products that they have can you give me some ideas
Love your content, though I am not a builder, other than amateur handyman. Love your occasional collaborations with the "other" Matt on his "mansion" project as well. Thank you for the content, always enjoyable!
Man you really put a lot of trust into these unproven glues and tapes.
How have you determined they are unproven?
Matt, at some point you're going to decide weather you're building a house or a submarine. LOVE THE BUILD SHOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thats an interesting solution to your problem.
since I will be building in snow country, I was thinking that a complete wrap around porch, about 8 feet out, with gravel base should keep any and all water away from my foundation/basement walls. the freeze/thaw cycle would never have a chance either.
Your videos are so very helpful. Thank you for the tips and help! I wish everyone built houses like you.
I needed this video. I have a flush built garage that gets water this should do the trick
My garage also takes in water and was looking for a solution like this .
Loving these videos with Matt actually doing work :P Good to know you still have the skills. Great videos, keep it up
Great detail. Hurricane Ike caused $22 k damage to our house in 2008 due to wind-driven rain getting through the brick veneer and running down the sheathing and coming in under the sill plate. (And the weep holes had been plugged by mulch)
Oh man. That’s terrible Mark.
Just the detail I was looking for, thanks Matt!
Great ideas,keep up the good work. I will definitely implement this idea on my current garage addition.
You always deliver good useful detailed info that we listen closely to fully grok. Not sure if the conga drums are a necessary counterpoint. Maybe long notes on an organ would move the flow more subtly
Thanks for the advice this is a great solution when building a wall on concrete slab
Matt, since you're in Austin: you should consider doing a 'compare & contrast' with Gary Zuker's build there-since he went the ''natural materials' and 'DIY route''; toured on Kirsten Dirksen's channel. . . . Video is titled 'Austin coder builds timeless cob home using precise patterns'.
Matt's house is 16% flashing by weight lol Love it!
Whoa! That's a nice detail. Way to look ahead. Great problem solving!
I have kerfed 1 inch deep at planned sheeting line and stood up flashing bedded in tremco buytl and incorporate into WRB. No bend necessary and a much deeper embedment. On house to garage slabs I cast in place.
Love the detail of your videos. So easy to follow
Great stuff, as always. I’m excited to see how you finish this floor. I’ve struggled to perfect this detail and appreciate your thoughtful guidance here.
I used the brad nailer on the wall of the flashing edge towards the wall after applying the flashing sealant. I hope the nail didn't hurt it.
internal corners look great but what did you do on external corner with metal flashing - we have the same situation on our balcony/porch which been filtrating for 40 years on the line where is concrete slab of the porch is connecting to the wall of the house, now we are trying to the same system as you just showed with copper flashing and external corner is very tricky one to make it tight, flash and waterproofed..
One little missed detail...your vertical zip tape on the seams of the zip panels should shingle/lap over the horizontal zip tape you installed for the flashing.
I don't agree with the kerf cut into the concrete with flashing embed in sealant. This is a water wicking scenario when the sealant fails. I would use a brick ledge flashing profile making sure the slope is maintained during install. This way, water intrusion won't wick up into the zip panel. Never butt joints with flashing.
Common sense is not common.
Hi Matt. woud you use this same metal
flashing solution and call it a day incase you had a concrete patio without a overhang under seasonal rain?
I like that. That can take years of sideways rain and not give out.
Thanks, Matt. Throwing ideas into my brain that may come in handy at some future buildpoint.
Like concrete, there are 2 types of sealant, ones that have failed and ones that will fail,...….mechanical flashing, IE shingled does not require sealants.
Sealants are required in some places/circumstances...…..that's just the way it is...…..while they can certainly be minimized, they can not eliminated.
The sealant isn't there as a front-line defense. It's basically there as a "belt an suspenders and ..." type solution.
The actual finish of the wall/porch surface is the front line defense.
The flashing is there to handle whatever little bit gets by the wall finish.
The sealant is there mainly as a bulk filler (like packing peanuts in a shipping box) for the minimal space in the kerf cut and under the flashing. If it has its own waterproof/resistant properties, and is long-lived as a sealant? Bonus points!
So, even if the sealant fails (as a sealant or an adhesive), it's still providing the bulk fill in the waterproofing solution.
So you wouldn’t have butt-jointed the flashing?
@@aayotechnology Unless there was a detail/tolerance that prevented it no,...but it would have still used the same sealants no matter what. Who knows, the sealant might out last the flashing.....
Nothing is guaranteed in life, we just do the best to minimize.
I swear Matt will have a zip tape feature wall in his new finished house. 😂
This detail is precisely what I need in my remodel.
I would suggest having another bead of sealant behind the vertical leg to prevent any chance of sweat (condensation) or water overtopping of the flashing for mold/mildew prevention. Also, you're creating an open hole when running screws through the flashing, so apply an extra vertical broad bead on the wall through which the screw will pass sealing that possible water pathway.
I just don't think your tape will adhere or resist punctures as well as you hope ( I noticed your head shaking in doubt) it will.
Hey Mat, a quick question from Australia. Did you do anything to minimize thermal bridging between the existing slab inside the house and the new slab on the porch? If not what suggestions do you have to insulate between the internal and external slabs. Would be interested in a video discussing this. Stay safe.
I look forward to seeing this front door!
Sweet, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Matt!
I love those 3 buck knee pads.
Nice closure detail.
How do we know that these systems that have only been around for 10 years will last 100?
How well do they last on your kitchen table? I’ll be covering my entire structure with 2” of foam so all my tapes and sealants won’t see much +- 15 degrees of inside temps.
It’s also called accelerated age testing. We do it all the time in composites. There are a bunch of ASTM standards in fact for this very purpose.
With enough money, you can make something last thousands of years. You could go with all stainless steel framing and sheathing, welded together. Your kitchen sink does pretty well as a water barrier, and if you go to a railroad museum, you'll see stainless steel passenger cars that have been mostly outside in the weather since they were built in the 40s. They last pretty well. This will cost you mucho dinero, but for a thousand years, hey, it's worth it, right? Finish off the exterior with thick granite ashlar blocks, and, well, you've seen the Lion Gate at Mycenae, right? That's been there 3250 years now.
@@SigmaDG this is the answer I was looking for. Thanks
ASTM life cycle testing, blast it with UV at high temps and then spray it with salt water or acid etc.
The plastic may last but adhesives tend to be the first part to go, I too am interested in how the zip flashing and others hold up over a few decades.
Anything worth doing is worth over doing. Nice.
I like thinking about little things that would give houses a longer life span, because I see so many houses falling apart due to not having basic prevention, then Matt here goes and 3X that haha
I like the look of that ZIP sheathing system, would you fix your rain screen / cladding directly to it or install a cavity batten system first?
mickey blowman that's what I'm wondering,
Pretty sure insulation gets attached directly to it, then rain screen, then outer layer (brick?).
Hi Mate, if you wanted to add an extra precaution for waterproofing you could add a waterproofing membrane. I have seen cases here in Australia where people haven't waterproofed bathrooms properly and haven't fully coated the base of the shower and just sealed the floor-wall junctions, the concrete gets waterlogged and the moisture migrates under the waterproofing and out into the neighbouring rooms. This could happen with your flashing if you get moisture sitting there for long enough. Very unlikely but could be worthwhile if you want to ensure no water enters your house
I missed this video. Now I've got to start over. 😢
I think this will help me. My porch (concrete) is above my garage. I got a water leak damaging the ceiling of this unit. The concrete has several cracks but the water leak stains makes me believe that the water is coming straight down from the siding that most likely doesn't have the flashing joint. What else do you recommend i could do to the concrete porch, which was built back in 1976, to ensure there are not more water leaks. The association can't afford to redo the whole concrete porch. Contractor is recommending a Rubber membrane to repel the water in the meantime. any recommendations? have you ever deal with something like that?
Please refer me to a place where I can get this flushing because the addition was built directly onto patio concrete and the wall framing was put directly onto it which allowed some water to flow into the house under the framing which may have rotten the old joists and Im in the middle of replacing the joists and sistering the suds along with new bottom frame under the studs. I wish I could attach some pictures to this but.... I need advice to do it myself, I would put new exterior walls but i need to prevent the water from coming in. So I need a place to buy the flush metal thing. I need help asap.. Thank you
Great video! Thanks!! Please tell me you were not using that kerchief as your respiratory protection when you were cutting into the concrete!
We had an N 95 mask
Amazing video like usual. Keep it up.
We are in the process of replacing our siding, and doing this at our patio. I am unable to find any z bars taller than 1- 1/8 to fasten to the sheathing. This is fine to attach where the patio slab is closer to the baseplate, but further down the grade, it doesn’t reach to fasten it with nails. Would you suggest fastening with only polymer in these areas, or attaching the flashing level with the baseplate and bending the bar to attach into the cut? Thanks!
Your videos are awesome. I changed the garage door to the opposite side and had been having water coming in after I applied stucco, I completely missed doing this and will be doing it soon. Also I’m trying to level my garage floor because it’s uneven due to the door movement. It had about 2” difference for water to out come in but now I need it leveled. Know how I can do that since it quite a bit ? Thanks
Matt, thanks for sharing!
Quick question: can we use 2" x 1-1/2" x 1/2". x 10 ft. 28 Gauge Galvanized Steel Water Table Flashing or Drip Cap?
It protects the top of exterior windows and doors from water infiltration. It seems to have the same shape.
Jamie
Nice video, Dusty
This may be a solution I was looking for.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing this!
I will do it too. Thanks for idea.
What do you recommend for an addition that has no sill plate gasket and the sill plate itself is flush with the concrete slab? (So I can’t do metal flashing atleast not a bent piece)
All I can access is the exterior of the addition/home and it has t-1-11 siding on it, and some areas I can see about 1/4 inch of the sill plate when on my knees looking up into the foundation and t-1-11.
And other parts I can only see about 1/8th of an inch of the sill plate. (Due to the t-1-11 being placed not perfectly straight)
I live in Florida and definitely need to seal out the water and bugs! Please help.
I was thinking liquid flashing by zip like you recommended in one of your articles and getting some sort of sticky flashing tape once the liquid flashing dries just to make it look more like a straight black line cause I assume liquid flashing may be a bit messy. Do you have a better suggestion?
Not too concerned about looks more concerned about waterproofing without having to take all the t-1-11 off If possible
Hey Matt, I've built my house myself watching a LOT of your videos, so thanks for good information being shared. I have the same ledge around my walkout basement/patio slab. I was just going to use the Huber Liquid Flash for the transition between the Zipwall and the slab drop which is about three inches. Do you think that will be fine or should I use the Prosoco? I liquid flashed all of my windows, so I have both on hand. I was going to use your "Zip 1.5" method.
sponsorship legalities will prevent him from answering, most likely. IMHO and not having much experience with the products, I would bet both fluid applied materials are essentially the same chemistry
you ha ve done every thing right
This really looks like complex thinking..and i believe this will happen only when you are building your own..usually i don't see this kind of details in houses that somebody else is building..But again..it looks like it actually works...btw i think..it looks to me like that metal sheet was bended too much..i would suggest bent it in angle more than 90 degree (so it would rather want to touch the wall instead of going opposite way then you have to force it by screws towards the wood)...i'm a bit afraid that that stainless steel might come off..even it was glued..but during days or years..it might..
But again..Nice video and you did what you could to prevent water coming inside..100 points for that :)
Me: I'm a belt-and-suspenders guy.
Matt: I'm a belt and suspenders and button and velcro and duct tape and zip-ties guy.
Great vid and although I rarely comment I need help.
WHY does HD sell cheap deck screw with a star? bit? What happened to the #2 Phillips (that I have dozens of)???
Is it a better driver but I got a cheap/junk bit?
Thanks
Hey matt so are the products used in this video (the black caulking you used )better than the huber zip liquid flashing you use in the newer videos ????
Do you have a link to purchase the flashing?
I am currently in the middle of an identical project and this was so helpful - thanx much! One question though, is it necessary to cut into the slab so the lip goes into it? As I don't have equipment that will saw through concrete, could I just have the flashing coming out say 4 or 5 inches? Also, would that BTL product be useful under the plate for a little extra protection? I got a lot of rain water coming in and need every bit of insurance I can get....thanx.
Is this something you do on your customers homes or just your own home?
Matt, do you have any suggestions for lintels that are allowing water to leak through a center block wall?
What's the minimum required in Texas? our builder did not install any flashing where the siding meets the foundation and the foundation sticks out about an inch off the exterior wall, this along with the fact that the siding butts with the foundation instead of overlapping, is causing water to leak into our garage. The problem is that, this can be seen happening at other portions of the house which is concerning.
Hey I have been watching your videos gathering info about ZIP sheeting I seen in one of ur videos u was using all liquid flash and even used it on the sheeting to foundation detail did you not like that doing this just wondering .. I am going to use ZIP sheeting on my mom's house and not to many people around here have used it I really liked the idea of the liquid flash looks like u can make a simple thought less water tight seems
May I ask, where did you get the flashing from?
Love your videos Matt!
Very nice.Dean
I've concluded that this house is a good exercise in using every bit of cutting edge techniques available. I'd guess that you could get 90% of the benefits in all that he's done by spending 50-60% of the money he's spending. There are thousands and thousands of houses built with 19th century technology that don't have water damage after many decades of exposure in much more harsh climates than Austin. While I admire his insulation package from the aspect of reducing greenhouse gas emissions from heating (occasionally) and cooling (often) this house, with cutting edge mechanicals, the insulation overkill is, in my engineering opinion, wasted money. I think there would be more value to society in figuring out how to translate some of these technologies to production builder houses at a reasonable cost. For example, how could Zip type sheathing replace OSB and Tyvek at a reasonable cost in a 2000 home development.
Jealous?
@@microwavedsoda Why would I be jealous? Just stating an opinion that he's going overboard and I doubt if anyone could convince a bank to loan the money without sponsor discounts. As an engineer it's an impressive effort. As an engineer it's not justifiable other than as an experiment.
I have to say that demonstrating materials and methods that are not as advanced as we were using 10 years ago doesn't really qualify as "cutting edge", but I guess that is somewhat in the eye of the beholder. Matt's claim to fame is a platform for publicizing stuff not commonly done by the trades, which is good thing, in and of itself. Leaving aside for the moment the cost/ benefit value judgement made in the reply above, I would throw this out:
In 18 years working in the Boston area, I did entirely renovations and additions on existing structures, aged 30 to 90 years old. I found that 100% of the structures I worked on had present infestations of carpenter ants or termites, or significant damage from past infestations. All of those revolved around water penetration and damage; the bugs follow the moisture softening, and then accelerate it.The upshot was I have had a personal "crusade" for water management, starting way back when (mid-seventies, actually). When I moved to Colorado in 1994, I worked for another builder for a short time, doing new houses (the boom times). I looked at the shoddy building practices, felt the warm dry air, and concluded that the locals knew their stuff. Once back to doing my own jobs, I had to start on renovations and additions, all over again. Quickly learned, most of the same water intrusion problems existed here, just to a lesser degree, and without the bugs (except for one notable project). The changing insulation standards that started after the '73 energy crisis threw the industry into turmoil, and I don't see in the construction landscape that anywhere near the improved response has been made, given all this time.
A few years ago, I was called as an expert examiner, by my attorney, for a severe water leak situation in a 6 year old house in a "New Community". When the legal dust had settled, I was engaged to do the remediation work. Wind driven rains from the north would leave one third of the living room floor in a huge puddle of water. Other windows had leaks that had internal structural damage. Every person(neighbor) who walked by while we were on-site had a leak story of their own. I simply shake my head at the greed, ignorance and incompetence that is rampant in the developer/ residential construction industry. Most citizens are now so conditioned by the "Walmart Effect" (you can have a bigger one of EVERYTHING, and way cheaper, too) that quality and long-term considerations of durability and maintenance costs never come up as a decision-making factor. A really smart client of mine (45 years ago) told me there are two ways to buy something: PRICE or COST.
Lee Stevens what do u mean price or cost?
@@michaelpatrick6950 it's hilarious you think banks make the decisions on the money. We build too many blank check houses here in MD. These customers make $220k annually and the bank approves any tech they want all the way up to $2M. We know the price will go up in 20 years
Dude, you're a gangster!!
Hi! Do they sell that waterproofing compound in clear color?
Would you recommend this flashing for a shed next to a pool?
Smart Man, your house it bringing up some really cool designs
interesting solution. thanks for sharing.
Hi! New sub here. Love your channel. I’m just wondering if you’d recommend installing a weep screed for a similar install.
When you're flashing the wall, especially with the Liquid Zip - how much coverage (how many panels can you cover) do you get per sausage tube?
Also, in our home, we don’t have sheathing at all. Because of cost and contemplation of your and other recommendations, we have decided to do tyvek attached to framing, with a layer of 3/4 xps sheathing, then a layer of stucco wrap as a rain screen, followed by Hardie. Would this flashing attach to the first layer of tyvek? Any thoughts/recommendations on what we have going on here? We don’t have time to wait for zip to come down in pricing.
Could l get the name of the caulking you used. Doing same Idea in my garage.
Thanks
Matt,
What is your opinion about using the Zip 2.0 system in an area that may flood? (South Louisiana)
On flooding right about the slab (2-3”) when doors are sand bagged could the Zip system hold back water?
Once flooded, less than 1 foot, is opening the drywall enough to dry out cavities?
In flood prone areas, would you recommend other methods?
Love your show, the science, and attention to detail. Thanks for all you do! Richie
This looks like a great solution to a problem at my house.
Would aluminum flashing be sufficient? I imagine stainless steel has to be really expensive.
Are you worried about the house shifting in Texas and cracking?