Mine separated just by twisting it, I didn't drop it. Watched your video and helped me fix it. You really have got to take your time and slice through the glue especially on the corners, I used a Stanley knife blade and slowly and gently hammered it in all around the edges. Took me about 15 minutes to slice through the glue before I had any movement of the speaker. Thanks for taking the time to upload this video.
I found spraying the speaker terminal with a dry silicone lubricant and pressing the button up and down loosened and repaired the speaker's terminals without having to open up the speaker. I am not sure how long this fix will last but it only has to work long enough to hook up your system. I also found that while lubricating the button it might help to use a utility knife blade to just open up the space at the radius where the binding happens.
I also wanted to say thank you very much, it is very helpful for me to fix my speaker which was separated, and just one thing which I want to add tips is, if it is too hard to fix the hooks by hands, use the bolt and washer and nut to fix the box upper side and hooks. then you can push the upper side of box to push the hook to lower box.😉
I appreciate the method of loosening the stuck speaker wire press button but before going through all that, I gently pried the button back up with a sharp pen knife after a spritz of WD-40 with a quick wipe off. I worked it 2 or 3 times until it returned after each press and repeated on the other 4 speakers with success.
Nice video. Another very simple trick to test with a 9v battery. Connect a short pair of wires to the main terminals. Hold the negative or black to the negative of the 9v. Then tap the positive to the red and you will hear a popping sound. While the covers are off you will see the speakers move. If you wired them correctly, they should both pop outward or away from the magnet. If you wired them wrong one will pop out and the other pop inward. This is very important because they will cancel each other out and sound terrible.
Hi DJIJ, I'M trying to get into my bose cube satellite speaker enclosure to tri and repair the wire terminal on the back The fit is so precise that I dont see anyway to pull the speaker out of the white plastic case Have any ideas? Love your experiments
@@rogeradrianllc If it’s one of these newer ones with the single button you press to insert the wires, they are, indeed, quite difficult to remove. I’d start on the top and bottom, where the box hangs slightly over the driver frame. At these points it’s possible to get some leverage to break the seal. The sides are more difficult: you’ll need a thin, rigid tool, similar to the ones used by mobile phone repair companies. The corners take the longest to free. I had to spend a lot of time on each corner to make sure I didn’t break anything. These are some of the hardest Bose speakers to get inside, but at least you don’t have to destroy them. Bose Companion 2 computer speakers are completely sealed with no way in, as are Soundlink Micro Bluetooth speakers.
If you're trying to fix separation check to see if your plastic and speaker body has a Key/slit and line them up when applying pressure to snap back in. My older white pair has this slit. If you don't and try to force if you could possibly crack the plastic and you're all out of luck then.
This is probably not going to improve your system, if that’s what you think. A cube is either 3 or 4 ohms if I recall correctly. Bose wants you to only use their cubes with an acoustimass module, hence the strange impedance rating. I’m pretty sure the cubes with an acoustimass module probably measures 8 ohms per channel as it is. Hooking up 2 cubes in series will not have an effect on volume, because even though you’re putting more drivers in the system, you’re giving each one less power. Hooking 2 cubes up in parallel will double the volume, but cut the ohm rating in half: not good for the system.
@@carfix2000ca That’s definitely possible, but I tried it once and the resistor got quite hot. From what you are trying to do here, I’m now assuming you’re dealing with a recalled acoustimass module that can’t be used If so, most other speakers are going to be far easier to work with than the proprietary Bose ones.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Everything works. I just want to hook ceiling speakers to my receiver and thought it might be possible to use 2 cubes at the front. Could hook my bring 8 ohm and the acousrimass rear cube feeds to the same output on the receiver? Receiver is 6 to 16 ohm
For stuck terminals, just oil a little the edge of the push botton and tap it with a plastic or screwdriver handle. Repeat until the oil will lubricate inside
Thanks for this very useful video. The problem I have is that the cube rattles when shaken. The metal around the driver has separated from the plastic holder at the front of the cube. Is this a press fit? If so, how can I press it back in? Or do I need to glue it, eg. with epoxy? Thanks.
Based on the fact that you have no visible screws and a metal framed driver, it sounds like you have a very rare original am5 double cube, which were made from 1987 into the early 1990s. On the back of the speaker in the center, you will find a small hole. Deep in the hole is a screw, which holds the driver in place. Chances are, that single screw is loose. Since they are less common, not many people know about this.
Hi - thanks for this info. BUt I have a different problem and would really appreciate any advice. On my acoustimas system the bass unit only works when one channel is playing - left or right - but when the balance is set for both speakers I lose bass on both channels. Once again thanks for any help. Cheers.
Check the wires from your receiver to the bass module. You probably have the polarity wrong on one side. Acoustimass 5 bass modules contain two speaker cones, and both have to vibrate at the same time to produce bass. If one of the internal drivers is moving the opposite direction (wrong polarity), then the bass will be perfectly cancelled out when both the right and left are playing at the same volume. Acoustimass 3 modules use one cone, but you’d have the same issue, because the conflicting electrical signals would combine into one, so the cone would basically not vibrate.
Super helpful video, thank you!! One question - I have a different but similar issue with a single cube: that one speaker sounds perfectly fine, but is much softer than the others. Should I look to replace the driver, or is there anything else i can investigate first?
@@sahiltalwar6360 Try swapping the speakers around first. If the problem stays with the speaker, you probably have a bad driver. If the problem stays in the same spot even with a different speaker there, then the speaker is not the problem. It could be a bad channel on the receiver/amplifier, or a bad component in the bass module where the crossover (and sometimes the subwoofer amplifier on ones that plug into the wall) is located in these systems.
@djijspeakerguy4628 thanks for the reply! I'm with ya. I tried it, it stayed with the speaker - so new driver it is. Any idea if the driver for the Accoustimass Series II is interchangeable with others, or if there's a known place to get it other than ebay?
@ Which cubes do you have? Do they look similar to this, or are they the older generation with the Bose logo in the corner that sometimes had a red stripe around the grill. The “red line” cube drivers are easier to find because they screw in, so they are easier to remove.
Also it might be possible that there’s a bad connection in the speaker. The driver itself isn’t always the issue. If you can, hook up the drivers only. Also check the driver for physical damage. The cone should feel firm. If it doesn’t there’s something wrong with it. Unfortunately, Bose doesn’t really sell bare parts. If you can find a driver anywhere, that’s great, but difficult with these newer “glued together” cubes, If you can’t, these are really common speakers and there could be a single unit for sale somewhere.
I have 1 which only works 3% if of the time, and then a 2nd that buzzes at certain frequencies or low volume. Mainly asking if anyone has any idea whats wrong with the 2nd
All my buttons have this problem, thank you! I'm going to try the tape/WD40 method first because I don't like the idea of breaking the seal. It's not a ported enclosure so the seal is important.
I am not familiar with the 901. I looked at some images, and it looks like a screw/bolt type terminal. Is the screw section missing? Not much you can do, other than buy a replacement screw of EBay. They may not have one. I do not know any other problems theose have.
Both pro logic 2 (5.1 surround sound) and pro logic 2x (7.1 surround sound) use 3 speakers in the front. These are placed in the left and right like normal speakers, and a speaker in the center, above or below the TV. The center channel speaker is the most important, because most of the action you see on the screen, including dialogue, is produced by that speaker. If it helps, Bose double cubes are considered one speaker. The only difference between 5.1 and 7.1 surround sound is that 7.1 adds 2 speakers in the rear, behind the surround speakers also featured in 5.1 systems. Also, many people put the subwoofer (bass module if you have a Bose) in the front, because it is easier to wire to the receiver. This is often a good place for the subwoofer, but not always. It can sometimes be better to place it on the side or even in the rear of your room.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Last week all three speakers worked in prologic mode and the rears were the fill ins and yes I have the bass next to the reciever...then something went wrong...only 1 speaker works in prologic and the left and right Cubes work as fill INS...but all the speakers work in 5.1 at the same time...no separation first it was awesome now only the center works in prologic...but all the speakers work maybe something went bad on the prologic mode...fucking cable guy unplugged everything so tomorrow I'm going to rewire everything...took me 3 hours the last time...what a mess ...its the Yamaha rx 375...No reset button...what do you think I should do ...only the center behind the TV works in prologic..I know its something stupid...but it sounded awesome with the cubes the voice coming out and the effects from the rear and side speakers...I always had centers and 4 book shelfs...I just wired them with the rears...is it possible I blew the pro logic.. but it would shut down saftey features...but everything gets wired into the bass in then out to the reciever I use an audio out from the TV to the front of the receiver for the sound...But thank you so much for getting back to me ...I hit straight..lol don't even know what that's for ...there's sound coming out of the bass ...very low but working..I was thinking of unplugging it and praying...lol
@@michael7845 I have 3 ideas. Idea 1: I own 2 Onkyo receivers, and they have “speaker adjust” settings. One of those settings switches between 2.1 (front left and right only), 3.1 (disables rear speakers), 4.1 (disables center speaker) and the full 5.1. It is entirely possible that your setting got switched to 3.1, if your Yamaha has that setting. Idea 2: You actually can do a factory reset, but it isn’t as simple as pressing a single button. Here is how to do that on the Rx-v375, copied from the Yamaha website. 1: Set the unit to Standby Mode using the Power button. (Upper left corner.) 2: While holding down Straight button, hit the Power button. ... 3: Use the Program Selector buttons to navigate to INIT CANCEL. 4: When the proper selection is made, turn off the unit using the Power button. Idea 3: Is the audio input on the front of your receiver just 2 rca plugs? If so, that won’t work correctly for surround sound, because the receiver tries to decode a 2 channel signal, often sending most sound out of the center channel. You’ll need to use a coaxial or optical digital audio cable, or an HDMI cable, if any of those are supported by both your tv and receiver.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Hey brother..thank you I will let you know I'm going to try to reset it first straight and power together then power but I'll re read it again around 11AM...but thank you ...I think a reset will work it was amazing last week...then I don't know why the cable asshole touched it...watched PEARL HARBOR an it was awesome... I really hope that's it ...all 3 fronts were working then when the bombs came in through the rears and front it was amazing...!!!! But I will get back to you ...stand by means off right..???
You are right, but the speakers have tabs there so you have to pry on the center at least a little. However, you can just click the speakers together afterward thanks to the tabs. You do not need to re-glue.
The button on the back? You might have seen in my video how that button works. When pressed, it separates the metal tabs apart, and when released, they clamp onto the wires. I disassembled the button in my video. There is one or two long clips on each side of the button. If they are intact, just snap the button back on. If they are broken, it can be used without the button. You just have to physically separate the metal tabs that hold the wires in to connect the wires. Most likely, just snap the button on.
I actually did, but I didn’t use that name because I wasn’t using it for screws if that helps. A flat head ( aka slotted ) screw driver makes a good tool for prying things when there’s already a gap between them.
Just wanted to say thanks. Just fixed my separated speaker using your video. Awesome!
Mine separated just by twisting it, I didn't drop it. Watched your video and helped me fix it. You really have got to take your time and slice through the glue especially on the corners, I used a Stanley knife blade and slowly and gently hammered it in all around the edges. Took me about 15 minutes to slice through the glue before I had any movement of the speaker. Thanks for taking the time to upload this video.
I would feel guilty if I don't thank you for sharing this video. It really helped me open the cube and fix the issue. Thanks bro.
As you stated..my double cube separated when it was knocked over on its floor stand,, Thanks for showing me how I can fix it.
I found spraying the speaker terminal with a dry silicone lubricant and pressing the button up and down loosened and repaired the speaker's terminals without having to open up the speaker. I am not sure how long this fix will last but it only has to work long enough to hook up your system. I also found that while lubricating the button it might help to use a utility knife blade to just open up the space at the radius where the binding happens.
I also wanted to say thank you very much, it is very helpful for me to fix my speaker which was separated, and just one thing which I want to add tips is, if it is too hard to fix the hooks by hands, use the bolt and washer and nut to fix the box upper side and hooks. then you can push the upper side of box to push the hook to lower box.😉
I appreciate the method of loosening the stuck speaker wire press button but before going through all that, I gently pried the button back up with a sharp pen knife after a spritz of WD-40 with a quick wipe off. I worked it 2 or 3 times until it returned after each press and repeated on the other 4 speakers with success.
Really really great - just fixed my Boses speakers the way you suggested. Thanks, mate!!
Nice video. Another very simple trick to test with a 9v battery. Connect a short pair of wires to the main terminals. Hold the negative or black to the negative of the 9v. Then tap the positive to the red and you will hear a popping sound. While the covers are off you will see the speakers move. If you wired them correctly, they should both pop outward or away from the magnet. If you wired them wrong one will pop out and the other pop inward. This is very important because they will cancel each other out and sound terrible.
How do you mount the round style wall adapter that your speakers are attached to?
Hi DJIJ, I'M trying to get into my bose cube satellite speaker enclosure to tri and repair the wire terminal on the back
The fit is so precise that I dont see anyway to pull the speaker out of the white plastic case
Have any ideas? Love your experiments
@@rogeradrianllc If it’s one of these newer ones with the single button you press to insert the wires, they are, indeed, quite difficult to remove.
I’d start on the top and bottom, where the box hangs slightly over the driver frame. At these points it’s possible to get some leverage to break the seal.
The sides are more difficult: you’ll need a thin, rigid tool, similar to the ones used by mobile phone repair companies. The corners take the longest to free. I had to spend a lot of time on each corner to make sure I didn’t break anything.
These are some of the hardest Bose speakers to get inside, but at least you don’t have to destroy them. Bose Companion 2 computer speakers are completely sealed with no way in, as are Soundlink Micro Bluetooth speakers.
If you're trying to fix separation check to see if your plastic and speaker body has a Key/slit and line them up when applying pressure to snap back in. My older white pair has this slit. If you don't and try to force if you could possibly crack the plastic and you're all out of luck then.
how is the thing called that can get blown, where do i find it ? Mine is blown and i want to buy a new one
When I try to snap them together one of the center goes completely in!!! Help
Is there somewhere I can order the plastic swivel connector? Mine has actually brioken.
Do you know if you can hook 2 cubes to the front if you wire in series? Specs say amp is 8 ohm. Series would make it 16ohm.
This is probably not going to improve your system, if that’s what you think. A cube is either 3 or 4 ohms if I recall correctly. Bose wants you to only use their cubes with an acoustimass module, hence the strange impedance rating. I’m pretty sure the cubes with an acoustimass module probably measures 8 ohms per channel as it is. Hooking up 2 cubes in series will not have an effect on volume, because even though you’re putting more drivers in the system, you’re giving each one less power. Hooking 2 cubes up in parallel will double the volume, but cut the ohm rating in half: not good for the system.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Could you add a 4ohm resistor in each line and increase the resistance to make 8ohms?
@@carfix2000ca That’s definitely possible, but I tried it once and the resistor got quite hot. From what you are trying to do here, I’m now assuming you’re dealing with a recalled acoustimass module that can’t be used If so, most other speakers are going to be far easier to work with than the proprietary Bose ones.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Everything works. I just want to hook ceiling speakers to my receiver and thought it might be possible to use 2 cubes at the front. Could hook my bring 8 ohm and the acousrimass rear cube feeds to the same output on the receiver? Receiver is 6 to 16 ohm
For stuck terminals, just oil a little the edge of the push botton and tap it with a plastic or screwdriver handle. Repeat until the oil will lubricate inside
Many people have brought this up. It seems to be a solution that works, and I might make an updated video.
Big thx my friend helped me to put my 2x cubes together again.
Thanks for this very useful video. The problem I have is that the cube rattles when shaken. The metal around the driver has separated from the plastic holder at the front of the cube. Is this a press fit? If so, how can I press it back in? Or do I need to glue it, eg. with epoxy? Thanks.
Based on the fact that you have no visible screws and a metal framed driver, it sounds like you have a very rare original am5 double cube, which were made from 1987 into the early 1990s. On the back of the speaker in the center, you will find a small hole. Deep in the hole is a screw, which holds the driver in place. Chances are, that single screw is loose. Since they are less common, not many people know about this.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 how the heck did the speaker seperate after prying each side? I'm trying but the corners don't want to release
@@wazup3333 I had the same issue. it’s quite difficult to get the corners. I’d already done it before filming so it was easier for me.
Also if it’s glued then it’s likely the same model I have.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 I tried putting lithium grease into the button and works perfectly now
Buddy, such a useful video. Thank so much my friend. You are very knowledgeable
Hi - thanks for this info. BUt I have a different problem and would really appreciate any advice. On my acoustimas system the bass unit only works when one channel is playing - left or right - but when the balance is set for both speakers I lose bass on both channels.
Once again thanks for any help.
Cheers.
Check the wires from your receiver to the bass module. You probably have the polarity wrong on one side. Acoustimass 5 bass modules contain two speaker cones, and both have to vibrate at the same time to produce bass. If one of the internal drivers is moving the opposite direction (wrong polarity), then the bass will be perfectly cancelled out when both the right and left are playing at the same volume. Acoustimass 3 modules use one cone, but you’d have the same issue, because the conflicting electrical signals would combine into one, so the cone would basically not vibrate.
Super helpful video, thank you!! One question - I have a different but similar issue with a single cube: that one speaker sounds perfectly fine, but is much softer than the others. Should I look to replace the driver, or is there anything else i can investigate first?
@@sahiltalwar6360 Try swapping the speakers around first. If the problem stays with the speaker, you probably have a bad driver. If the problem stays in the same spot even with a different speaker there, then the speaker is not the problem. It could be a bad channel on the receiver/amplifier, or a bad component in the bass module where the crossover (and sometimes the subwoofer amplifier on ones that plug into the wall) is located in these systems.
@djijspeakerguy4628 thanks for the reply! I'm with ya. I tried it, it stayed with the speaker - so new driver it is. Any idea if the driver for the Accoustimass Series II is interchangeable with others, or if there's a known place to get it other than ebay?
@ Which cubes do you have? Do they look similar to this, or are they the older generation with the Bose logo in the corner that sometimes had a red stripe around the grill.
The “red line” cube drivers are easier to find because they screw in, so they are easier to remove.
Also it might be possible that there’s a bad connection in the speaker. The driver itself isn’t always the issue. If you can, hook up the drivers only. Also check the driver for physical damage. The cone should feel firm. If it doesn’t there’s something wrong with it.
Unfortunately, Bose doesn’t really sell bare parts. If you can find a driver anywhere, that’s great, but difficult with these newer “glued together” cubes, If you can’t, these are really common speakers and there could be a single unit for sale somewhere.
Where I can buy the swivel plastic component for my Bose jewel cube speaker?
thank you very much for this, helped me figure out how to get the grill's removed for cleaning
I have the white ones, you could imagine how are the grill's
attitude catalonia Yeah, that’d be why I don’t buy white speakers, (or pretty much, white anything.) Good luck trying to clean any white fabric.
I have 1 which only works 3% if of the time, and then a 2nd that buzzes at certain frequencies or low volume. Mainly asking if anyone has any idea whats wrong with the 2nd
Fantastic brother! I got a hand me down system that was pretty cosmetically thrashed but this vid helped me fix the issuies I was having!
Thank you for the video. Hopefully I can now fix my speakers that came apart.
One of my speakers isn't working help?
All my buttons have this problem, thank you! I'm going to try the tape/WD40 method first because I don't like the idea of breaking the seal. It's not a ported enclosure so the seal is important.
how did you get on?
You might short it out
an easier way to fix the stuck rear button is just to spray it with a silicon lubrificant (I used silicon shine from Muc-Off)
Thank you brother!! Fixed my seperated cube
How many ohm/wattage on each speaker?
These speakers do not give wattage or ohms rating.
It's 15 watts per cubes max : double cubes would be 30 watts then
How do you fix 901s speaker terminal where the wire attaches?
I am not familiar with the 901. I looked at some images, and it looks like a screw/bolt type terminal. Is the screw section missing? Not much you can do, other than buy a replacement screw of EBay. They may not have one. I do not know any other problems theose have.
Where can you buy replacement driver. A link would be helpful, thanks
Londoner R They are not sold directly by Bose, but you will probably be able to find one in used, working condition online.
Ebay would probably have them.
awesome!! showed me exactly how to fix my issue!! Thank you.
Does anybody know how many front speakers should work in prologic mode on the reciever
Both pro logic 2 (5.1 surround sound) and pro logic 2x (7.1 surround sound) use 3 speakers in the front. These are placed in the left and right like normal speakers, and a speaker in the center, above or below the TV. The center channel speaker is the most important, because most of the action you see on the screen, including dialogue, is produced by that speaker. If it helps, Bose double cubes are considered one speaker. The only difference between 5.1 and 7.1 surround sound is that 7.1 adds 2 speakers in the rear, behind the surround speakers also featured in 5.1 systems. Also, many people put the subwoofer (bass module if you have a Bose) in the front, because it is easier to wire to the receiver. This is often a good place for the subwoofer, but not always. It can sometimes be better to place it on the side or even in the rear of your room.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Last week all three speakers worked in prologic mode and the rears were the fill ins and yes I have the bass next to the reciever...then something went wrong...only 1 speaker works in prologic and the left and right Cubes work as fill INS...but all the speakers work in 5.1 at the same time...no separation first it was awesome now only the center works in prologic...but all the speakers work maybe something went bad on the prologic mode...fucking cable guy unplugged everything so tomorrow I'm going to rewire everything...took me 3 hours the last time...what a mess ...its the Yamaha rx 375...No reset button...what do you think I should do ...only the center behind the TV works in prologic..I know its something stupid...but it sounded awesome with the cubes the voice coming out and the effects from the rear and side speakers...I always had centers and 4 book shelfs...I just wired them with the rears...is it possible I blew the pro logic.. but it would shut down saftey features...but everything gets wired into the bass in then out to the reciever I use an audio out from the TV to the front of the receiver for the sound...But thank you so much for getting back to me ...I hit straight..lol don't even know what that's for ...there's sound coming out of the bass ...very low but working..I was thinking of unplugging it and praying...lol
@@michael7845 I have 3 ideas.
Idea 1: I own 2 Onkyo receivers, and they have “speaker adjust” settings. One of those settings switches between 2.1 (front left and right only), 3.1 (disables rear speakers), 4.1 (disables center speaker) and the full 5.1. It is entirely possible that your setting got switched to 3.1, if your Yamaha has that setting.
Idea 2: You actually can do a factory reset, but it isn’t as simple as pressing a single button. Here is how to do that on the Rx-v375, copied from the Yamaha website.
1: Set the unit to Standby Mode using the Power button. (Upper left corner.)
2: While holding down Straight button, hit the Power button. ...
3: Use the Program Selector buttons to navigate to INIT CANCEL.
4: When the proper selection is made, turn off the unit using the Power button.
Idea 3: Is the audio input on the front of your receiver just 2 rca plugs? If so, that won’t work correctly for surround sound, because the receiver tries to decode a 2 channel signal, often sending most sound out of the center channel. You’ll need to use a coaxial or optical digital audio cable, or an HDMI cable, if any of those are supported by both your tv and receiver.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Hey brother..thank you I will let you know I'm going to try to reset it first straight and power together then power but I'll re read it again around 11AM...but thank you ...I think a reset will work it was amazing last week...then I don't know why the cable asshole touched it...watched PEARL HARBOR an it was awesome... I really hope that's it ...all 3 fronts were working then when the bombs came in through the rears and front it was amazing...!!!! But I will get back to you ...stand by means off right..???
My buttons were sticking so put the wires in and tapped the back of the cube with a screwdriver handle and the buttons pop out to hold the wires
believe it or not that worked for me as well
Useful video, thanks for sharing
Great video
Thanks for the help really appreciate your video
Thank you very mutch!
You can use a box cutter for the glue
You are right, but the speakers have tabs there so you have to pry on the center at least a little. However, you can just click the speakers together afterward thanks to the tabs. You do not need to re-glue.
thanks for this!
Thank you very much!!!
Thank you ❤
Gracias amigo
The button popped off any ideas
The button on the back? You might have seen in my video how that button works. When pressed, it separates the metal tabs apart, and when released, they clamp onto the wires. I disassembled the button in my video. There is one or two long clips on each side of the button. If they are intact, just snap the button back on. If they are broken, it can be used without the button. You just have to physically separate the metal tabs that hold the wires in to connect the wires. Most likely, just snap the button on.
Good job
Thanks!
Mine are like the first day
Dude thank you so much
i cant hear you
well done thanks
Thank you
Thanks !!
Thank you, mucho helpo.
Can you just spray some wd40 on the back to grease it
Most likely yes. Bose did not grease the button in the first place, which is a big mistake.
THANKS
this button design is such junk wont last unlike push connectors last forever
You didn’t know what to call a screw driver…
I actually did, but I didn’t use that name because I wasn’t using it for screws if that helps. A flat head ( aka slotted ) screw driver makes a good tool for prying things when there’s already a gap between them.
I took sharp nose knife -and thats it!!!
I sprayed WD 40 WORKED GREAT. with out opening the speaker...
Interesting... that seems easier. Not sure how other people have not thought of that.
Uhh...
Wow , is made so cheap
Yeah at least they sound ok.
I'm fat
Learn to speak tech! You can burn out an engineer in nothing flat. But a good try after all.
So, thumbs up for the brass to make the video.