If you are interested in some balanced LCR, I have designed a speaker than can be used as all positions but all differently arranged this gives a really wide open sound stage. If you are interested of course!
Hi snowy, I just came back to watch the video again and just noticed you loved my comment (happy to see). For some reason, it never came up in my notifications. With the excursion, you were getting out of that thing I assume you were giving it more than 40W. As you were interested I'll post the frequency response graph of the finished speaker with visuals on how the crossover is put together. It is a two-way design in a 25L box but doesn't look that big. I wanted a speaker that would be small enough to use as all speakers in my home theatre system whilst giving me a flat response well down below 80hz (for crossing nicely with a subwoofer). As you probably already know you cannot get a fully realistic surround experience without all speakers being the same (apart from the sub!) which is why I designed the speaker in the first place. I have used 9 of these speakers for my 5.2.4 dolby atmos surround installation (using 4 as heights, of course, they weren't mounted in the ceiling that would be silly for this enclosure), but here is the diagram, please ask me as many questions as you want on the project, I'd love to talk about it with a fellow enthusiast! 1drv.ms/u/s!ArchaGCeGgkq111xZMGlcTd80J3r
Also your center channel must be mahusive to get the right vented enclosure for the mid-woofer in there! This is why I did sealed (and I prefer the better damping and much less group delay, it allows for better integration with a subwoofer as well. :D
@@lio1234234 Sorry I forgot about this comment. I have it in a center channel with 2 of the woofers. Then I have 2 of the same size bass radiators. If I rebuilt it I would do some calculations to make it better (I did none lol). It did turn out well but cant play that low. Also if I do play below 60hz on it there seems to be another wave of like 110 coming off of it as well. it is interesting. I will post a video of it in it box with a sub as well. I wish I had a good mic (I'm using an s9) to capture the audio. The new video won't be good (audio-wise) but it will show what box there is.
@@lio1234234 these are budget mid ranges, they have good bass if you use filter like 150hz or 100hz, and boost around 40hz, but the voice coil is abit of a joke, the 4 inch and 5 inch version of this both same voicecoil, it should be bigger so it play bass more linear, 4 inch is good, the 5 inch seems to distort earlier, unless you cut a lot of the mid bass away in an equaliser, but then again same thing if you cut off low frequencies the mid bass gets louder 100hz + so you really got to cross over these type of speakers and make them play one or the other thing, i have the 4 inch dayton and it can get to 35hz in a bigger box, but no use such low frequency, not efficient at lows below 40hz, you get a big dip somehere like 5-10hz above tuning frequency, but if youre on a budget you can make this 5 inch sound like a subwoofer, like a complete sound system, for a daily use low power sound system, for PC when playing games or music etc, as long as it gets down to 40-45hz it fills in a lot of emptiness, I have a Tang band W6-1139SIF, man this thing next level, big upgrade over the dayton nd woofer, rated at 50 watts but sounds louder than logitech z5500 180 watt at anything below 40hz, yes mid bass not as amazing as sensitivity of the tang band is low, but the lows on this 6 inch subwoofer is insane, it legit play 30hz , 35hz sounds way louder than logitech z5500 which is a 10inch subwoofer 180 watt, it gets destroyed by 6 inch subwoofer in the lows, which goes to show bigger box, good reflex design is important, dont use reccomendations of manufacturer, you should always build a box 2-3x the Vas paramanter of a speaker if the VAS is low but the speaker xmax is good, unless you have a 15 inch subwoofer with 150L vas, then maybe it's not worth build a box a size of your bed lol.
What power were you putting through it? This is the exact size speaker my car uses, but Head Units only put 4x14W RMS (which is the announced 4x50W Max). Since the original car speakers are 15W RMS (30Max), I guess their efficiency is higher than this daytons (dayton may have a lower SPL at 1W power). Do you think my Head Unit will be able to power this speakers and get good volume? My problem may be this daytons take much more power to make the same dBs
![If you can't hear this then you're not an audiophile [See description for link to followup video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/48PxwspDvrE/mqdefault.jpg)
If you are interested in some balanced LCR, I have designed a speaker than can be used as all positions but all differently arranged this gives a really wide open sound stage. If you are interested of course!
Hi snowy, I just came back to watch the video again and just noticed you loved my comment (happy to see). For some reason, it never came up in my notifications. With the excursion, you were getting out of that thing I assume you were giving it more than 40W. As you were interested I'll post the frequency response graph of the finished speaker with visuals on how the crossover is put together. It is a two-way design in a 25L box but doesn't look that big. I wanted a speaker that would be small enough to use as all speakers in my home theatre system whilst giving me a flat response well down below 80hz (for crossing nicely with a subwoofer). As you probably already know you cannot get a fully realistic surround experience without all speakers being the same (apart from the sub!) which is why I designed the speaker in the first place. I have used 9 of these speakers for my 5.2.4 dolby atmos surround installation (using 4 as heights, of course, they weren't mounted in the ceiling that would be silly for this enclosure), but here is the diagram, please ask me as many questions as you want on the project, I'd love to talk about it with a fellow enthusiast! 1drv.ms/u/s!ArchaGCeGgkq111xZMGlcTd80J3r
Also your center channel must be mahusive to get the right vented enclosure for the mid-woofer in there! This is why I did sealed (and I prefer the better damping and much less group delay, it allows for better integration with a subwoofer as well. :D
@@lio1234234 Sorry I forgot about this comment. I have it in a center channel with 2 of the woofers. Then I have 2 of the same size bass radiators. If I rebuilt it I would do some calculations to make it better (I did none lol). It did turn out well but cant play that low. Also if I do play below 60hz on it there seems to be another wave of like 110 coming off of it as well. it is interesting. I will post a video of it in it box with a sub as well. I wish I had a good mic (I'm using an s9) to capture the audio. The new video won't be good (audio-wise) but it will show what box there is.
@@lio1234234 these are budget mid ranges, they have good bass if you use filter like 150hz or 100hz, and boost around 40hz, but the voice coil is abit of a joke, the 4 inch and 5 inch version of this both same voicecoil, it should be bigger so it play bass more linear, 4 inch is good, the 5 inch seems to distort earlier, unless you cut a lot of the mid bass away in an equaliser, but then again same thing if you cut off low frequencies the mid bass gets louder 100hz + so you really got to cross over these type of speakers and make them play one or the other thing, i have the 4 inch dayton and it can get to 35hz in a bigger box, but no use such low frequency, not efficient at lows below 40hz, you get a big dip somehere like 5-10hz above tuning frequency, but if youre on a budget you can make this 5 inch sound like a subwoofer, like a complete sound system, for a daily use low power sound system, for PC when playing games or music etc, as long as it gets down to 40-45hz it fills in a lot of emptiness, I have a Tang band W6-1139SIF, man this thing next level, big upgrade over the dayton nd woofer, rated at 50 watts but sounds louder than logitech z5500 180 watt at anything below 40hz, yes mid bass not as amazing as sensitivity of the tang band is low, but the lows on this 6 inch subwoofer is insane, it legit play 30hz , 35hz sounds way louder than logitech z5500 which is a 10inch subwoofer 180 watt, it gets destroyed by 6 inch subwoofer in the lows, which goes to show bigger box, good reflex design is important, dont use reccomendations of manufacturer, you should always build a box 2-3x the Vas paramanter of a speaker if the VAS is low but the speaker xmax is good, unless you have a 15 inch subwoofer with 150L vas, then maybe it's not worth build a box a size of your bed lol.
Does this have good bass? I wanted to use one as a mini subwoofer.
With my box yes (sort of) but it is a center channel type box so it is not support to but it has insane volumes of mid bass
What power were you putting through it? This is the exact size speaker my car uses, but Head Units only put 4x14W RMS (which is the announced 4x50W Max). Since the original car speakers are 15W RMS (30Max), I guess their efficiency is higher than this daytons (dayton may have a lower SPL at 1W power). Do you think my Head Unit will be able to power this speakers and get good volume? My problem may be this daytons take much more power to make the same dBs
Btw, you listen to same music I do 😁
For example 1w= 90db, 2w=93db 4w=96db and so on
Double the power= +3db ish
What's the songs?
why did you even came back to this video?
@@ArdaiThomasPoker why not?
@@ArdaiThomasPoker also because of the songs. I already found it though.
4 or 8 ohm?
This one was a 8 ohm. You can get a 4 or 8 ohm version.
You mean 80w?
No its 40w RMS. It's on Dayton audio's website and parts Express website.
@@snowyslate6083 i know that, but it also states 80w max ua-cam.com/video/C2retMSPsG8/v-deo.html
@@plainsabertooth7828 it is a 80w max but the max rating on speakers does not mean anything. (To my knowledge)
@@snowyslate6083 then why state 80w max if you cant shove 80w through it?
@@plainsabertooth7828 idk why they put a max rating on